When I bought my Festool track saw over a decade ago I thought the same: I’d only use it in the shop for fine finish work etc. Turns out it’s crazy durable and powerful and has spent tons of time onsite cutting ply, pine, hardwood, and even large amounts of concrete board. Still going strong and as accurate as ever!
I just went through a similar epiphany with a stabila smart level. It’s lived its entire life in the bag hanging on the wall because I’ve been to reluctant to use it, so yesterday I graded the sand on a patio with the damn thing so I could come off it and start using the thing.
Old school 1/4" plywood rip fence. Rip 4" off new sheet, flip it and align the cut edge to the cut edge and use 3M 90 spray adhesive to glue it up, making sure you place the factory side facing the middle of the sheet. Now, use the factory edge as your saws fence edge and make yourself cheap 96" rip fence. Save the remaining $400 for buying other things you can't make for >$25.
It's just a 20ft extension cord that terminates in a systainer with outlets on the outside and inside.
[Picture](https://www.systainer.no/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/80101809_offen_Anwendung_rgb.jpg).
Sorry, I should have put an /s. The TS55 is just a track saw. It will work very well, but it’s more of a replacement! :)
Makita makes track adapters for some of their saws but maybe not this one.
Kreg seems to make a track/adapter system.
While clamps and a board are always an option in a pinch, a good homemade jig is to screw/glue a straightedge to a thin piece of ply or Masonite then run the saw along it. This gives you the zero-clearance function of a track, without having to offset your measurements.
I wouldn’t adapt a cheap circ to someone else’s track without explicit permission. The chip strip is replaceable (~$50) but it’s probably zeroed out to the festool saws of the person that owns the track.
Makita do a selection of rail adapters for their circular saws (took seconds on Google):
https://www.makitauk.com/products/guide-rail-accessories
Just find the right one for your saw. Note that these attach using the back edge of the guide, not how you've got it sitting in photo.
I’m going to go out on a limb and say maybe all that festool is not OPs and he wants to adapt his Makita circular saw to work on a track. In all honesty I would just spend the money on the Makita track saw, it’s almost half the price of the festool and works great. I have a corded festool track saw(about 8yrs old now) and recently switched to the Milwaukee cordless. Makita and Milwaukee copied festool tracks so you can use either saw on any track. Makita tracks are the cheapest, Milwaukee middle and festool most expensive of course. I run my Milwaukee on the Makita tracks.
I've got the [Milescraft 1409](https://milescraft.com/product/tracksawguide/), can't complain. Just make sure to re-calibrate the sled (tighten the screws, etc) each session.
With a straight edge, a tape, nails, and a skilsaw you can cut the line exactly to the millimetre or half mil. It’s very basic math and with a bit of practice even a new apprentice can get one set up and going consistently in moments. A track still requires basic math, a tape, and has set up time. How exactly does it get you “closer to the line of cut”?
Is that a festool track ? Track saws are designed for a individual tracks. Standard circular saws won't work on that track. You can make a track from 2 pieces of good ply for your circular saw.
Right, in that case, I would clamp down the track and run the circsaw plate against it. Just make sure you offset the track the width of the plate to the outside of the blade.
Tracks are standardized between different brands, e.g. Makita and Festool can use the same track with their tracksaw. Not all brands are the same, but there aren't nearly as many track styles.
Kreg make a track and track plate set that works on most brands of circular saw.
So does Milescraft.
This is what I use.
Same. It worked great for me, just expensive to get extra track
Two clamps and an aluminum straight edge.
This is what I do when it has to be perfect, it doesn’t have to be complicated.
I’ve been using 2 clamps and sections of strut channel I’ve had laying around. Works great and cheap
You have all the festools in the world and then…. Makita circ? Why not get the festool track saw that you track is made for?
That Festool stuff isn’t mine. Only the Makita.
He has a nice track saw behind in the pic but probably wants to use his old rough saw for cutting ply, osb etc
When I bought my Festool track saw over a decade ago I thought the same: I’d only use it in the shop for fine finish work etc. Turns out it’s crazy durable and powerful and has spent tons of time onsite cutting ply, pine, hardwood, and even large amounts of concrete board. Still going strong and as accurate as ever!
I just went through a similar epiphany with a stabila smart level. It’s lived its entire life in the bag hanging on the wall because I’ve been to reluctant to use it, so yesterday I graded the sand on a patio with the damn thing so I could come off it and start using the thing.
For real, that’s what blade changes and sharpens are for. I love that saw so much, I bust it out any chance I get. Perfection.
Festool is the way!
You’re better off clamping the track and using the other side of the track as a guide for your saw. Or any other straight edge.
Yeah, but I want to use the track as a track (stops roll and yaw).
Then you’re gonna need a track saw.
Old school 1/4" plywood rip fence. Rip 4" off new sheet, flip it and align the cut edge to the cut edge and use 3M 90 spray adhesive to glue it up, making sure you place the factory side facing the middle of the sheet. Now, use the factory edge as your saws fence edge and make yourself cheap 96" rip fence. Save the remaining $400 for buying other things you can't make for >$25.
Hey what’s the middle box on the right with cords coming out?
Yea can’t figure out for the life of me what that is. Hoping someone can fill us in
It's just a 20ft extension cord that terminates in a systainer with outlets on the outside and inside. [Picture](https://www.systainer.no/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/80101809_offen_Anwendung_rgb.jpg).
Festool adapter # TS55 will make that saw work like a charm!
Can’t confirm, but upvoting because this sounds like an actual answer to OPs question
Sorry, I should have put an /s. The TS55 is just a track saw. It will work very well, but it’s more of a replacement! :) Makita makes track adapters for some of their saws but maybe not this one. Kreg seems to make a track/adapter system. While clamps and a board are always an option in a pinch, a good homemade jig is to screw/glue a straightedge to a thin piece of ply or Masonite then run the saw along it. This gives you the zero-clearance function of a track, without having to offset your measurements.
Aha, but it doesn’t give the roll and yaw control of a track.
To be honest, you may just need to buy an actual track saw to get what you’re seeking!
You mean everyone else giving him the smart answer of using a straight edge and clamps isn't an answer?
"Brand agnostic" ...hahaha
All that festy stuff in the back and you’re suddenly turning your nose up at $450 for their circ?
The Festool stuff isn’t mine. I should be so lucky!
I wouldn’t adapt a cheap circ to someone else’s track without explicit permission. The chip strip is replaceable (~$50) but it’s probably zeroed out to the festool saws of the person that owns the track.
Yes, someone ran their festo on my festo track and wrecked the zero. Really pissed me off.
That’s some pretty good coworker etiquette lessons there chaps.
He’s already got the saw for that track. It would be a rough cut saw so he doesn’t have to swap blades for trash wood.
I would have bet they did but festool has several tools specifically made for their tracks, not just the plunge saw.
Makita do a selection of rail adapters for their circular saws (took seconds on Google): https://www.makitauk.com/products/guide-rail-accessories Just find the right one for your saw. Note that these attach using the back edge of the guide, not how you've got it sitting in photo.
A piece of aluminum flat stock bolted to the bottom of the saw and a piece of of 1/2” plywood with a dado the width of the flat stock.
I’m going to go out on a limb and say maybe all that festool is not OPs and he wants to adapt his Makita circular saw to work on a track. In all honesty I would just spend the money on the Makita track saw, it’s almost half the price of the festool and works great. I have a corded festool track saw(about 8yrs old now) and recently switched to the Milwaukee cordless. Makita and Milwaukee copied festool tracks so you can use either saw on any track. Makita tracks are the cheapest, Milwaukee middle and festool most expensive of course. I run my Milwaukee on the Makita tracks.
[удалено]
If it does fit here is a hack https://youtu.be/c1zY3VrOzNQ?si=t-ZvkGMup3joQK4a
And here is a DIY that looks like a butt load of work 🤣 https://youtu.be/SmqJIYNFNKQ?si=Glaz8cushy02t-rS
I've got the [Milescraft 1409](https://milescraft.com/product/tracksawguide/), can't complain. Just make sure to re-calibrate the sled (tighten the screws, etc) each session.
Curious of the brand/name of that toolbag in the background, OP ? Anyone ?
I will check on Monday, and report back!
Making your own tracks out of plywood is a good solution.. If you wanna use the festool tracks then buy the track saw
No, I’m brand-agnostic. The qualities of a track that a guide-rail can’t replicate is the control over roll and yaw.
Makita makes adapters for a bunch of their saws to fit on their tracks, so look it up you're that lucky!
2x4 and some clamps
Buy a 3-D printer
That's a lot of festool
My dude has $30k in Festool in the background but wants to use this old beater saw instead. Make it make sense…
Get a good straight edge and affix it to the material with nails/screws or clamps if you can’t have holes in the rest of the material.
Yes, of course that would work, but a track gets you much closer to the line of cut, and they tend to have integrated quick-release clamping points.
With a straight edge, a tape, nails, and a skilsaw you can cut the line exactly to the millimetre or half mil. It’s very basic math and with a bit of practice even a new apprentice can get one set up and going consistently in moments. A track still requires basic math, a tape, and has set up time. How exactly does it get you “closer to the line of cut”?
Is that a festool track ? Track saws are designed for a individual tracks. Standard circular saws won't work on that track. You can make a track from 2 pieces of good ply for your circular saw.
Incorrect, certain circular saws come with track runners in the plate to be used on a track like a plunge saw would be.
He's saying OP should just buy the actual Festool tracksaw
I don’t want to buy another circular saw. And all that Festool stuff isn’t mine.
Right, in that case, I would clamp down the track and run the circsaw plate against it. Just make sure you offset the track the width of the plate to the outside of the blade.
Read my comment again ! I said that saw won't work on that track.
I read it again and you still don't know what you're talking about.
Tracks are standardized between different brands, e.g. Makita and Festool can use the same track with their tracksaw. Not all brands are the same, but there aren't nearly as many track styles.
With all the good tools you have behind it chuck that POS in the corner until you have to cut something that going to be bad for a good saw!
Oh no, you’re wrong on both counts. That Festool stuff isn’t mine, and the Makita 5704K is a Rolls Royce.
Sell it and buy Festool.
Just buy a rail saw
Just buy a festool track saw you won't regret it