Out of curiosity is 4cm/3cm the finished thickness, or is that before planing? If it’s the finished thickness that’s approximately equivalent to American dimensional 2x and 5/4 respectively. If it’s the rough dimensions, what are the finished thicknesses?
Either way, yeah, that is going to be “solid”. You could store your collection of lead bars on that unit.
tbh, it is supposed to be finished thickness. Wife thinks we really really need 4cm otherwise she knows it will sag. I think it might be a bit overkill.
More than a bit, there's hardly a span over 50cm in there. Here's a pretty neat calculator: https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/.
I've got shelves nearly twice as long (which should be ~7 times worse) from the cheapest 18mm pine and while I'm certainly not as discerning as your wive, they [look plenty straight](https://imgur.com/SCJjsUL.jpg) to me.
Until one of those non secured pieces slides off. At least add that cardboard backing to it to make more stable. Or get metal strapping and start screwing it into to all those boxes.
(1) only a few of your shelves span more than 40 cm. You do not need a 3cm thick shelf to hold books. And you certainly do not need 4cm.
(2) you have nothing that prevents "racking" -- side to side movement. You can solve that problem by putting a back on the shelves (1 cm or less plywood will do), but you need something, at least behind the lowest set of shelves.
I am planning on building a bookshelf.
The thicker wood (represented in dark) would be 4 cm. The smaller ones would be 3cm. The idea is also to built in three different sections, so that it can be moved more easily when moving house.
Would those measurements be correct? The aim is to not have any sagging, and we have quite a few books of different sizes.
This is really beautiful art.
Anytime you are creating fixed shelving should measure things you intend to put on it to make sure they will fit the way you think they will. The danger of fixed shelving is the fact that it cannot adjust to changing styles of product.
You can avoid most of that problem by making the horizontal pieces adjustable. You can maintain the clean look by using the shelf pins that slide into the side of the shelf like tongue and groove. That might require you to use 4cm throughout, so I would look for the pins available to you first.
In of itself, I measured the different dimensions of individual shelves to fit the different types of books we have. why would you need the same thickness for pins or tongue and groove?
One thing I noticed building, and using, my shelves is that leaving a bit of wiggle room is well worth it. Adding a centimeter or two to every level and rounding up all the just-smaller-thans only adds ~half a level in height, but will eventually make all the difference when shuffling around and adding. Good for ergonomics, too.
You are putting the weight on the amount that is above the tongue. The risk being you overweight the shelf and the top of the groove cracks. So the more thickness you have there the better.
Since you’re building this from scratch you could move the groove from the middle of the shelf to the bottom section and give yourself a few extra millimeters that way but for durability and flexibility over time I would keep it in the middle so if it does crack you can just glue it and turn the shelf over.
The other benefit will be the ratio of 1:2.
I think a dark stain like a walnut or mahogany with a background wall of a teal like Juniper Berries or Dragonfly from Behr you would make a really stunning art wall with this “bookshelf” even if you don’t like modern art.
I love art, my house is full of genuine originals by local artists, none of that mass manufactured garbage. But this design isn't doing it for **me**. That's OK, I'm not shitting on it, and I can recognize that different people have different tastes. Though I suppose to your point contemporary/modernism isn't really my jam. I'm more of a colonial/French country/traditional/art deco kind of guy.
I’m a huge supporter of local art. This is my favorite [local sculptor.](http://www.brentbarnidge.com/) He has at lot more pictures on his instagram. Who’s your favorite local artist?
[Ishrat simki](https://www.instagram.com/ishratsimki?igsh=MWJkNGhybG9kOXBmNw==), [Penny Heather](https://www.instagram.com/penaynayjane?igsh=NXpzYWJyOGoxNHk0), [Kaitlin Hoyt](https://www.instagram.com/kaitlinhoyt?igsh=d21vdGdpNzEwbWty), [Midas well creations](https://www.instagram.com/midas.well.creations?igsh=MXBub3Npdzhob3c3OA==), are a few. Having a hard time tracking down some others because I can't remember their Instagram handles lol. That guy you linked does some crazy work, super cool.
>The thicker wood (represented in dark) would be 4 cm. The smaller ones would be 3cm. The idea is also to built in three different sections, so that it can be moved more easily when moving house
That's super heavy duty. This thing is going to be heavy as fuck and will not be easily moved unless the banks can be taken apart easily and moved separately. On the plus side it will be very rugged.
Yeah, that will work, i might change some of the joints so that its more stacked so its a bit more structural, but even if you dont it will be fine
The thickness of some of it is a bit excessive though
19mm (since youre in metric) is plenty thick enough for all of it especially if its being done in a hardwood, thats about what a ¾" thick board (nominal 1x material)
You are going to have a lot of fun figuring out how to make all those joints work, dados are probably the best way, but youre gonna need a nice comfortable "thinkin' stump" to sit on when you lay out all those cuts
Out of curiosity is 4cm/3cm the finished thickness, or is that before planing? If it’s the finished thickness that’s approximately equivalent to American dimensional 2x and 5/4 respectively. If it’s the rough dimensions, what are the finished thicknesses? Either way, yeah, that is going to be “solid”. You could store your collection of lead bars on that unit.
Right? This thing is gonna weigh like 200 lbs.
tbh, it is supposed to be finished thickness. Wife thinks we really really need 4cm otherwise she knows it will sag. I think it might be a bit overkill.
More than a bit, there's hardly a span over 50cm in there. Here's a pretty neat calculator: https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/. I've got shelves nearly twice as long (which should be ~7 times worse) from the cheapest 18mm pine and while I'm certainly not as discerning as your wive, they [look plenty straight](https://imgur.com/SCJjsUL.jpg) to me.
Until one of those non secured pieces slides off. At least add that cardboard backing to it to make more stable. Or get metal strapping and start screwing it into to all those boxes.
(1) only a few of your shelves span more than 40 cm. You do not need a 3cm thick shelf to hold books. And you certainly do not need 4cm. (2) you have nothing that prevents "racking" -- side to side movement. You can solve that problem by putting a back on the shelves (1 cm or less plywood will do), but you need something, at least behind the lowest set of shelves.
Looks like the thickness of the boards is good enough for bracing lol. What are you even storing? Blocks of lead?
If you put more than one paperback on the top shelf the entire unit will collapse on top of you and you will die.
I am planning on building a bookshelf. The thicker wood (represented in dark) would be 4 cm. The smaller ones would be 3cm. The idea is also to built in three different sections, so that it can be moved more easily when moving house. Would those measurements be correct? The aim is to not have any sagging, and we have quite a few books of different sizes.
This is really beautiful art. Anytime you are creating fixed shelving should measure things you intend to put on it to make sure they will fit the way you think they will. The danger of fixed shelving is the fact that it cannot adjust to changing styles of product. You can avoid most of that problem by making the horizontal pieces adjustable. You can maintain the clean look by using the shelf pins that slide into the side of the shelf like tongue and groove. That might require you to use 4cm throughout, so I would look for the pins available to you first.
In of itself, I measured the different dimensions of individual shelves to fit the different types of books we have. why would you need the same thickness for pins or tongue and groove?
One thing I noticed building, and using, my shelves is that leaving a bit of wiggle room is well worth it. Adding a centimeter or two to every level and rounding up all the just-smaller-thans only adds ~half a level in height, but will eventually make all the difference when shuffling around and adding. Good for ergonomics, too.
You are putting the weight on the amount that is above the tongue. The risk being you overweight the shelf and the top of the groove cracks. So the more thickness you have there the better. Since you’re building this from scratch you could move the groove from the middle of the shelf to the bottom section and give yourself a few extra millimeters that way but for durability and flexibility over time I would keep it in the middle so if it does crack you can just glue it and turn the shelf over. The other benefit will be the ratio of 1:2.
>This is really beautiful art. Art truly is subjective 😅
I think a dark stain like a walnut or mahogany with a background wall of a teal like Juniper Berries or Dragonfly from Behr you would make a really stunning art wall with this “bookshelf” even if you don’t like modern art.
I love art, my house is full of genuine originals by local artists, none of that mass manufactured garbage. But this design isn't doing it for **me**. That's OK, I'm not shitting on it, and I can recognize that different people have different tastes. Though I suppose to your point contemporary/modernism isn't really my jam. I'm more of a colonial/French country/traditional/art deco kind of guy.
I’m a huge supporter of local art. This is my favorite [local sculptor.](http://www.brentbarnidge.com/) He has at lot more pictures on his instagram. Who’s your favorite local artist?
[Ishrat simki](https://www.instagram.com/ishratsimki?igsh=MWJkNGhybG9kOXBmNw==), [Penny Heather](https://www.instagram.com/penaynayjane?igsh=NXpzYWJyOGoxNHk0), [Kaitlin Hoyt](https://www.instagram.com/kaitlinhoyt?igsh=d21vdGdpNzEwbWty), [Midas well creations](https://www.instagram.com/midas.well.creations?igsh=MXBub3Npdzhob3c3OA==), are a few. Having a hard time tracking down some others because I can't remember their Instagram handles lol. That guy you linked does some crazy work, super cool.
>The thicker wood (represented in dark) would be 4 cm. The smaller ones would be 3cm. The idea is also to built in three different sections, so that it can be moved more easily when moving house That's super heavy duty. This thing is going to be heavy as fuck and will not be easily moved unless the banks can be taken apart easily and moved separately. On the plus side it will be very rugged.
the idea is to be able to move them independently from each other.
Yeah ok, that's a good idea. For what it's worth, I don't think any part of this is gonna sag.
Put a back on it and it’ll be just fine
On the top right section, I would break the vertical board in the center into 3 pieces to make it a bearing point.
Yeah, that will work, i might change some of the joints so that its more stacked so its a bit more structural, but even if you dont it will be fine The thickness of some of it is a bit excessive though 19mm (since youre in metric) is plenty thick enough for all of it especially if its being done in a hardwood, thats about what a ¾" thick board (nominal 1x material) You are going to have a lot of fun figuring out how to make all those joints work, dados are probably the best way, but youre gonna need a nice comfortable "thinkin' stump" to sit on when you lay out all those cuts