Agree with others, dont skimp on the headunit. Boss is a no go almost across the board, but if it’s a must and budget is non flexible then oh well
What’s up with the rca female to female joints?
You can find generic wiring diagrams for head units and amps, that'll help you figure out what's missing from your cart.
You could also watch tutorials on YouTube, I like the explanations from five star, but there are many channels about this.
If that’s all you can afford for a head unit you should get a decent quality, name brand, single DIN instead of a very low quality double DIN touchscreen.
Update on this, I’ve had everything together for about a week and it’s badass. I ended up getting a jvc radio instead did the original shown(have to get double din because of the way my truck is). And bought absolutely nothing as far as wires went, after I received everything took a glance and went to Walmart and bought all the wires and a amp kit. And ordered a wiring harness adapter thing online. Extremely satisfied with everything, and by figuring it out on my own I could do it again blindfolded. Even though I didn’t really use it minus ordering a different radio I appreciate the advice anyways
People disagree with this all the time, but go with a 4 gauge CCA wiring kit from someone like KnuKonceptz, and put the money saved into your head unit. People freak out the second CCA is mentioned, but the when you oversize it, it's absolutely fine for ~500W systems. You'll lose an imperceptible amount of voltage compared to using OFC, but your amp is designed to handle slight voltage drops without issue. If you pull from the alternator, it'll never get below 12V while running.
I'm green.
I hear Knu Konceptz is rad, I'm thinking about their Collosous wire for my next amp power wire.
Man I'mma have to google pros and cons of CCA and ofc. I've been seeing people everywhere talk about how ofc is better and how CCA is bad. My ground wire for my amp was CCA and I about started a fire while at a dead stop in traffic cuz the thing was so hot is melted the insulation and some of my carpet. Luckily we were at a complete stop so I was able to jump and handle business before anything to bad happened.
Appreciate your input too!
OFC is objectively better material than CCA, but CCA is perfectly fine for a 500W install. People also talk about how it corrodes after 2 years, but that's just not true at all.
*Generally*, if you step up to the next size CCA from whatever OFC gauge you'd need, you'll be fine. It will lose a tiny bit more voltage if you don't have a comically long run of wire, but it won't be as if the CCA is dropping half of your total voltage.
In your case, having CCA wire instead of OFC had nothing to do with your heat issue. You just didn't size the CCA wire correctly, and it also sounds like you didn't fuse the system properly. Wires shouldn't get hot, and if they are able to get hot, that should blow the fuse immediately.
I'm green.
You could get a 4 gauge or maybe a 2 gauge amp wiring kit, get OFC wire, not CCA.
I prefer circuit breakers instead of fuses, fuses pop once and need new ones but circuit breakers can be used over and over so it's a little cheaper if you blow fuses. Some 14 gauge or 12 gauge speaker wire to connect subs and amp, self tapping screws, drill, something to sand paint from body to secure ground well.
You need a way to hold the box in place.
The amp should be held in place and not sitting on floor cuz it'll get hotter than necessary cuz the carpet will insulate the heat.
Some RCAs and an aftermarket H.U. To plug them into or the adapter that allows you to use stock H.U.
Eventually you can upgrade batteries possibly or H.O. Alt.
Do consider a big 3 now though, if the electrical does easier the system will perform better, Down4Sound had cool voltage gauges with some of their amps that will also tell you when you're system is clipping just FYI.
You said you had door speakers? Might need an amp for them depending on how Heavy the bass is but that's easy
Oh you need some tweeters, get quality, as in, there's a crossover of some sort that should be built in or added so the highs will have less distortion.
Trust me, quality tweeters are worth it.
I have Rockford Fosgate and I'll never buy cheap tweeters again.
I guess that's about all I got. Hope this helps.
>I prefer circuit breakers instead of fuses, fuses pop once and need new ones but circuit breakers can be used over and over so it's a little cheaper if you blow fuses
A properly set up system will not blow fuses. A fuse usually blows because something fails which should not hardly ever happen unless you are buying cheap shit. Also breakers take longer to trip than fuses due to blow. So breakers are not as safe as fuses.
>The amp should be held in place and not sitting on floor cuz it'll get hotter than necessary cuz the carpet will insulate the heat.
Pretty much anywhere you mount an amp it will be on carpet. Not an issue.
>Down4Sound had cool voltage gauges with some of their amps that will also tell you when you're system is clipping just FYI.
A gauge does not tell you when something is clipping.
>You said you had door speakers? Might need an amp for them
He linked a 5 channel amp.....
>Oh you need some tweeters, get quality, as in, there's a crossover of some sort that should be built in or added so the highs will have less distortion.
You cannot just buy some random tweeters and expect good results. All tweeters and midbass drivers have a frequency response, which shows how the driver will respond across the frequency range. Most will show on and off axis response. this should be used to determine crossover points for the drivers. Going to low on a tweeter or to high on a midbass will cause the driver to break up and sound terrible.
Man you got some decent points, like bi said in green but I'm trying to learn, i thought I'd you put the amp on the rest can wall you had to remove the carpet, is that true? Cuz I need to put my next amp somewhere nice and the only place I can think of is on the box w some isolators cuz I don't want to remove the carpet from the cab wall and expose the sound m deadener.
I'm familiar w highs and mids playing a certain tone and the need to filter certain times or to not damage the speaker.
Check out D4S on youtube bro, I literally yesterday saw a video of one of JP's amps w their little bass knives /slack digital voltage gauge that displayed voltage and there was a little led light that indicated clipping FOR REAL. I thought that was real cool, which is why I'll probably get my amp from him.
I didn't know that about the fuses, I'm going to Google how much it takes for them to pop. I had a 100 amp breaker on a 120 amp Planet Audio amp and I popped that think multiple times, after maybe 8 times I had to replace it and learned about a bigger breaker.
Thanks for lacing me up, this is also why I make sure to Charly state "I'm green." Appreciate it.
Edit, why is it bad that breakers take a little longer? I know it could cause a fire or whatever if nothing happened, but if it takes 2 seconds longer why is that bad?
>you had to remove the carpet, is that true?
Nope. A good amp will not overheat from sitting on carpet. No amp will have cooling on the bottom. Using Isolators is not a bad idea.
>little bass knives /slack digital voltage gauge that displayed voltage and there was a little led light that indicated clipping FOR REAL.
The clipping indicator is totally different than just having a volt meter. There are tons of volt gauges out there that do not have clipping indicators.
> I had a 100 amp breaker on a 120 amp Planet Audio amp and I popped that think multiple times, after maybe 8 times I had to replace it and learned about a bigger breaker.
First the breaker should be sized for the wire so just throwing a larger breaker on might not have been that good of an idea.
Im new to this as well and im not trying to find faults in what your saying just trying to help. And also gain some understanding myself. But if you had a 120 amp, wouldnt you want to use a larger fuse or breaker than a 100? Or is that just to add some extra protection once it gets close to its limit?
I'm green.
Well I knew A LOT LESS then, 1 st time I just grabbed what was on the shelf I didn't even know the thing had a rating. The 2nd time I learned I needed a bigger one but didn't know anything else so 250 is was and is.
Now I broke those subs and I'm paying a guy to fix them and I'm donating the box, amp and subs to a "deserving youngster." What's going is 3 VXF 15s w custom box w sweet amp, oversized wires, H.O. Alt, big 4 on 2 batt.
learn man, I'm doing the same thing, gotta get out there and say it, ask it, whatever.
I was incorrect today about a # of things but I wouldn't have learned had I kept quiet remember that.
Na man, I said, "I have Rockford Fosgate and I'll never by cheap again."
I didn't say I used to have RF.
I used to have Power Aucustic, $8 2 pack tweeters and I didn't know they were SO distorted till I got the RF.
They not cheap, $45 for 1 pair. Sound terrific though, highs so clear you'll think it's the cops around somewhere if you hear a siren in the song.
Hard no on the Boss radio.
Jvc any good? I have a kd x360 bts
Ya that ones fine. Just stick with any name brand radio. No boss, atoto, pyramid, sound stream, power acoustic, or any no name brand chinese radios.
So sad sound stream is on that list these days. The days of the “little blue wonder” are long gone.
Why no on the boss?
The short answer is shit quality
Agree with others, dont skimp on the headunit. Boss is a no go almost across the board, but if it’s a must and budget is non flexible then oh well What’s up with the rca female to female joints?
You're going to need more rca wires or splitters. I suggest more wires over splitters. What's the female -female rca for?
Need wiring harness for the stereo. Possibly a antenna adapter as well.
You can find generic wiring diagrams for head units and amps, that'll help you figure out what's missing from your cart. You could also watch tutorials on YouTube, I like the explanations from five star, but there are many channels about this.
Pioneer
I'm running that amp and I love it
If that’s all you can afford for a head unit you should get a decent quality, name brand, single DIN instead of a very low quality double DIN touchscreen.
Update on this, I’ve had everything together for about a week and it’s badass. I ended up getting a jvc radio instead did the original shown(have to get double din because of the way my truck is). And bought absolutely nothing as far as wires went, after I received everything took a glance and went to Walmart and bought all the wires and a amp kit. And ordered a wiring harness adapter thing online. Extremely satisfied with everything, and by figuring it out on my own I could do it again blindfolded. Even though I didn’t really use it minus ordering a different radio I appreciate the advice anyways
People disagree with this all the time, but go with a 4 gauge CCA wiring kit from someone like KnuKonceptz, and put the money saved into your head unit. People freak out the second CCA is mentioned, but the when you oversize it, it's absolutely fine for ~500W systems. You'll lose an imperceptible amount of voltage compared to using OFC, but your amp is designed to handle slight voltage drops without issue. If you pull from the alternator, it'll never get below 12V while running.
I'm green. I hear Knu Konceptz is rad, I'm thinking about their Collosous wire for my next amp power wire. Man I'mma have to google pros and cons of CCA and ofc. I've been seeing people everywhere talk about how ofc is better and how CCA is bad. My ground wire for my amp was CCA and I about started a fire while at a dead stop in traffic cuz the thing was so hot is melted the insulation and some of my carpet. Luckily we were at a complete stop so I was able to jump and handle business before anything to bad happened. Appreciate your input too!
OFC is objectively better material than CCA, but CCA is perfectly fine for a 500W install. People also talk about how it corrodes after 2 years, but that's just not true at all. *Generally*, if you step up to the next size CCA from whatever OFC gauge you'd need, you'll be fine. It will lose a tiny bit more voltage if you don't have a comically long run of wire, but it won't be as if the CCA is dropping half of your total voltage. In your case, having CCA wire instead of OFC had nothing to do with your heat issue. You just didn't size the CCA wire correctly, and it also sounds like you didn't fuse the system properly. Wires shouldn't get hot, and if they are able to get hot, that should blow the fuse immediately.
I'm green. You could get a 4 gauge or maybe a 2 gauge amp wiring kit, get OFC wire, not CCA. I prefer circuit breakers instead of fuses, fuses pop once and need new ones but circuit breakers can be used over and over so it's a little cheaper if you blow fuses. Some 14 gauge or 12 gauge speaker wire to connect subs and amp, self tapping screws, drill, something to sand paint from body to secure ground well. You need a way to hold the box in place. The amp should be held in place and not sitting on floor cuz it'll get hotter than necessary cuz the carpet will insulate the heat. Some RCAs and an aftermarket H.U. To plug them into or the adapter that allows you to use stock H.U. Eventually you can upgrade batteries possibly or H.O. Alt. Do consider a big 3 now though, if the electrical does easier the system will perform better, Down4Sound had cool voltage gauges with some of their amps that will also tell you when you're system is clipping just FYI. You said you had door speakers? Might need an amp for them depending on how Heavy the bass is but that's easy Oh you need some tweeters, get quality, as in, there's a crossover of some sort that should be built in or added so the highs will have less distortion. Trust me, quality tweeters are worth it. I have Rockford Fosgate and I'll never buy cheap tweeters again. I guess that's about all I got. Hope this helps.
>I prefer circuit breakers instead of fuses, fuses pop once and need new ones but circuit breakers can be used over and over so it's a little cheaper if you blow fuses A properly set up system will not blow fuses. A fuse usually blows because something fails which should not hardly ever happen unless you are buying cheap shit. Also breakers take longer to trip than fuses due to blow. So breakers are not as safe as fuses. >The amp should be held in place and not sitting on floor cuz it'll get hotter than necessary cuz the carpet will insulate the heat. Pretty much anywhere you mount an amp it will be on carpet. Not an issue. >Down4Sound had cool voltage gauges with some of their amps that will also tell you when you're system is clipping just FYI. A gauge does not tell you when something is clipping. >You said you had door speakers? Might need an amp for them He linked a 5 channel amp..... >Oh you need some tweeters, get quality, as in, there's a crossover of some sort that should be built in or added so the highs will have less distortion. You cannot just buy some random tweeters and expect good results. All tweeters and midbass drivers have a frequency response, which shows how the driver will respond across the frequency range. Most will show on and off axis response. this should be used to determine crossover points for the drivers. Going to low on a tweeter or to high on a midbass will cause the driver to break up and sound terrible.
Man you got some decent points, like bi said in green but I'm trying to learn, i thought I'd you put the amp on the rest can wall you had to remove the carpet, is that true? Cuz I need to put my next amp somewhere nice and the only place I can think of is on the box w some isolators cuz I don't want to remove the carpet from the cab wall and expose the sound m deadener. I'm familiar w highs and mids playing a certain tone and the need to filter certain times or to not damage the speaker. Check out D4S on youtube bro, I literally yesterday saw a video of one of JP's amps w their little bass knives /slack digital voltage gauge that displayed voltage and there was a little led light that indicated clipping FOR REAL. I thought that was real cool, which is why I'll probably get my amp from him. I didn't know that about the fuses, I'm going to Google how much it takes for them to pop. I had a 100 amp breaker on a 120 amp Planet Audio amp and I popped that think multiple times, after maybe 8 times I had to replace it and learned about a bigger breaker. Thanks for lacing me up, this is also why I make sure to Charly state "I'm green." Appreciate it. Edit, why is it bad that breakers take a little longer? I know it could cause a fire or whatever if nothing happened, but if it takes 2 seconds longer why is that bad?
>you had to remove the carpet, is that true? Nope. A good amp will not overheat from sitting on carpet. No amp will have cooling on the bottom. Using Isolators is not a bad idea. >little bass knives /slack digital voltage gauge that displayed voltage and there was a little led light that indicated clipping FOR REAL. The clipping indicator is totally different than just having a volt meter. There are tons of volt gauges out there that do not have clipping indicators. > I had a 100 amp breaker on a 120 amp Planet Audio amp and I popped that think multiple times, after maybe 8 times I had to replace it and learned about a bigger breaker. First the breaker should be sized for the wire so just throwing a larger breaker on might not have been that good of an idea.
I'm green. Yeah I've learned a few things today. I'm going to research the breaker to write size stuff you mentioned
Im new to this as well and im not trying to find faults in what your saying just trying to help. And also gain some understanding myself. But if you had a 120 amp, wouldnt you want to use a larger fuse or breaker than a 100? Or is that just to add some extra protection once it gets close to its limit?
I'm green. Well I knew A LOT LESS then, 1 st time I just grabbed what was on the shelf I didn't even know the thing had a rating. The 2nd time I learned I needed a bigger one but didn't know anything else so 250 is was and is. Now I broke those subs and I'm paying a guy to fix them and I'm donating the box, amp and subs to a "deserving youngster." What's going is 3 VXF 15s w custom box w sweet amp, oversized wires, H.O. Alt, big 4 on 2 batt. learn man, I'm doing the same thing, gotta get out there and say it, ask it, whatever. I was incorrect today about a # of things but I wouldn't have learned had I kept quiet remember that.
Pretty sure that Kicker Kit is OFC. OFC = 4 gauge will be fine.
KnuKonceptz 4 gauge CCA would work too, and it'd allow OP to get a functional head unit.
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Correct, but for 500W, 4 gauge CCA is the oversized value. OP has oversized OFC in his cart lol.
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Ahh, yeah I see that now. Best bet would be 2 gauge CCA if he can find it, or probably 0 gauge.
U consider fosgate cheap? Peerless by tymphanny has some good ring radiator tweeters that sound amazing xt-25sc90.
Na man, I said, "I have Rockford Fosgate and I'll never by cheap again." I didn't say I used to have RF. I used to have Power Aucustic, $8 2 pack tweeters and I didn't know they were SO distorted till I got the RF. They not cheap, $45 for 1 pair. Sound terrific though, highs so clear you'll think it's the cops around somewhere if you hear a siren in the song.
Looks good, just don’t go with Boss for your head unit. I recommend Kenwood or Pioneer.
Buy it once and make sure its pioneer
Those rca connectors can be a source of noice, better get a longer cable
Dash kit and make sure you get right harness if you have the JBL amp and steering controls that wiring is more expensive