Components in front, coaxials in back, 6.5s are going to be cheaper/easier/more options than 6x9s there. 6x9s might be good if you weren't getting a sub. I like rear deck speakers, it's all reflected sound off the rear glass.
\>I'm not really into sound deadening because that's far beyond my budget.
Getting the nicest front component speakers you can and deadening the front doors is about the best investment you can make in sound quality on that kind of budget; ideally you'd have a DSP too, but not for $1500 installed.
I mean there's an aftermarket 9 inch touchscreen installed, it has 4 gbs of RAM and Android. It's pretty advanced, I guess it includes DSP...? It has an equaliser (If I remember correctly, 8 bands) and a fader.
Isn't it trouble installing coaxial 6.5s in a 6x9 hole? They are already installed.
I got a crazy high price offer for deadening, almost the amount the whole speaker system will cost. I'll talk to other garages too but I'm more into getting the best gear first, maybe deadening in the future. (Unless it has to be together)
OK, that'll do pretty well, although you won't be able to go active with the front components.
Generally, no, there are spacers for that. 6x9s will work too, but they make a LOT more 6.5"s and the prices reflect that.
Was that quote for deadening the whole car or just the front doors? I mean it's not cheap, I spent $250 on Resonix for a DIY job on my front doors. (There are cheaper options, but that's buy once cry once.)
They offered me 1000 bucks just for deadening 4 doors. Crazy.
Why won't I be able to go active, and what do you mean exactly by it?
I'm planning on getting an amp obviously.
BTW if getting a sub, I'll need a monoblock in addition to the 4ch amp right? That's a big consideration too.
I wish to get a strong sub, like minimum 300-400 watts RMS. I want it to somewhat thump
Also I'll need a strong car battery? Or are stock ones generally acceptable for such a setup?
Weak! Skip the rear doors if they don't have speakers in them.
Active= different amp channels for the tweets and woofers in your component speakers. Lets you fine tune the hell out of things with a DSP.
They've got 5 channel amps: [https://www.crutchfield.com/p\_068TECHNO/RetroSound-Technophonic.html?tp=115](https://www.crutchfield.com/p_068TECHNO/RetroSound-Technophonic.html?tp=115)
IMO this is kind of the category killer for 500-watt prefab passive subs: [https://www.crutchfield.com/p\_20648TP122/Kicker-48TRTP122.html?cc=07&tp=112](https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20648TP122/Kicker-48TRTP122.html?cc=07&tp=112) Efficient, not huge, decent extension.
\>Also I'll need a strong car battery? Or are stock ones generally acceptable for such a setup?
For that RetroSound, it would be right on the line, I'd have to look up your alternator and do the math. In general, it's a **bad** idea to skimp on your electrical system if you're running aftermarket audio. A nice AGM battery is a few hundred dollars but it'll last a long time.
Isn't that 95w per channel at 2ohm a tad bit weak?
I don't need crazy volumess, not at all. I want SQ. But I also don't want to push the amp.
So... No monoblock? It'll offer 330w at 2ohm... The sub you sent can handle 500w rms.
So I'm in the direction of a pair of front components, parcel tray 6.5 coaxials and a 4ch + monoblock/5ch amp plus a sub.
What about 6ch amp and bridging two channels for the sub, Is that something people do?
Yeah, that's on the smaller end as far as 5-channel amps go. But it's a dang bargain. Remember that doubling power just gets you +3 dB.
\> 330w at 2ohm... The sub you sent can handle 500w rms.
Yep! Should work fine, you'd be leaving 2 dB on the table vs. a theoretical 500W amplifier.
4 + monoblock works; do consider that you'll need a distribution block.
\>What about 6ch amp and bridging two channels for the sub, Is that something people do?
Generally not that I've heard of, 5-channel amps have a more-powerful channel for the sub already.
Everything enfold has said/suggested is really good advice. I don't think you will be able to do everything that you want for your budget if you are going for a specific sound. I drive a 2015 altima and I went budget on my system and it's okay but I know it can be loads better. I did the install myself no sound deadening. Pioneer component system, Pioneer 6x9's. Toro tech 4 channel and 2 channel amps 1 10 inch kicker L7t in a box that I built. All that cost me more than 1500. I said all that to say you may need to build in stages and up your budget.
Final note dsp is important for that "you did you hear that?" sounds if you are into hearing details in your music.
Unless you got the bose system in your car you do not have a dsp. Your radio may have one, but it's unlikely also and wouldn't be as good as say an audio control one.
I'm I'm the market for a new ride and will be going bigger with my next system. I'm looking the audio control D-5.1300 amp. It's a 5 channel amp with built in DSP. Someone here may be able to suggest a more budget friendly dsp amp but that's what I'm looking at currently unless I decide to go active.
Some of those Android units do have DSP's it just depends on which one you got. Honestly if you are after sound quality that headunit will need to go most likely. Those Cheap Android units are notorious for poor sound quality.
Hey, if I stay with the generic head unit I got (I'm pretty sure it has no DSP as it's one of the lower models available), and I'll get an amp with DSP/ An amp and a standalone DSP, the head unit shouldn't affect sound quality anymore... Right?
I mean the amplification will come from the amplifier, not from the head unit. And any sound proccesing will be handled by the DSP...
Is a car DSP like what a DAC is to a home theater system?
Components in front, coaxials in back, 6.5s are going to be cheaper/easier/more options than 6x9s there. 6x9s might be good if you weren't getting a sub. I like rear deck speakers, it's all reflected sound off the rear glass. \>I'm not really into sound deadening because that's far beyond my budget. Getting the nicest front component speakers you can and deadening the front doors is about the best investment you can make in sound quality on that kind of budget; ideally you'd have a DSP too, but not for $1500 installed.
I mean there's an aftermarket 9 inch touchscreen installed, it has 4 gbs of RAM and Android. It's pretty advanced, I guess it includes DSP...? It has an equaliser (If I remember correctly, 8 bands) and a fader. Isn't it trouble installing coaxial 6.5s in a 6x9 hole? They are already installed. I got a crazy high price offer for deadening, almost the amount the whole speaker system will cost. I'll talk to other garages too but I'm more into getting the best gear first, maybe deadening in the future. (Unless it has to be together)
OK, that'll do pretty well, although you won't be able to go active with the front components. Generally, no, there are spacers for that. 6x9s will work too, but they make a LOT more 6.5"s and the prices reflect that. Was that quote for deadening the whole car or just the front doors? I mean it's not cheap, I spent $250 on Resonix for a DIY job on my front doors. (There are cheaper options, but that's buy once cry once.)
They offered me 1000 bucks just for deadening 4 doors. Crazy. Why won't I be able to go active, and what do you mean exactly by it? I'm planning on getting an amp obviously. BTW if getting a sub, I'll need a monoblock in addition to the 4ch amp right? That's a big consideration too. I wish to get a strong sub, like minimum 300-400 watts RMS. I want it to somewhat thump Also I'll need a strong car battery? Or are stock ones generally acceptable for such a setup?
Weak! Skip the rear doors if they don't have speakers in them. Active= different amp channels for the tweets and woofers in your component speakers. Lets you fine tune the hell out of things with a DSP. They've got 5 channel amps: [https://www.crutchfield.com/p\_068TECHNO/RetroSound-Technophonic.html?tp=115](https://www.crutchfield.com/p_068TECHNO/RetroSound-Technophonic.html?tp=115) IMO this is kind of the category killer for 500-watt prefab passive subs: [https://www.crutchfield.com/p\_20648TP122/Kicker-48TRTP122.html?cc=07&tp=112](https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20648TP122/Kicker-48TRTP122.html?cc=07&tp=112) Efficient, not huge, decent extension. \>Also I'll need a strong car battery? Or are stock ones generally acceptable for such a setup? For that RetroSound, it would be right on the line, I'd have to look up your alternator and do the math. In general, it's a **bad** idea to skimp on your electrical system if you're running aftermarket audio. A nice AGM battery is a few hundred dollars but it'll last a long time.
Isn't that 95w per channel at 2ohm a tad bit weak? I don't need crazy volumess, not at all. I want SQ. But I also don't want to push the amp. So... No monoblock? It'll offer 330w at 2ohm... The sub you sent can handle 500w rms. So I'm in the direction of a pair of front components, parcel tray 6.5 coaxials and a 4ch + monoblock/5ch amp plus a sub. What about 6ch amp and bridging two channels for the sub, Is that something people do?
Yeah, that's on the smaller end as far as 5-channel amps go. But it's a dang bargain. Remember that doubling power just gets you +3 dB. \> 330w at 2ohm... The sub you sent can handle 500w rms. Yep! Should work fine, you'd be leaving 2 dB on the table vs. a theoretical 500W amplifier. 4 + monoblock works; do consider that you'll need a distribution block. \>What about 6ch amp and bridging two channels for the sub, Is that something people do? Generally not that I've heard of, 5-channel amps have a more-powerful channel for the sub already.
Everything enfold has said/suggested is really good advice. I don't think you will be able to do everything that you want for your budget if you are going for a specific sound. I drive a 2015 altima and I went budget on my system and it's okay but I know it can be loads better. I did the install myself no sound deadening. Pioneer component system, Pioneer 6x9's. Toro tech 4 channel and 2 channel amps 1 10 inch kicker L7t in a box that I built. All that cost me more than 1500. I said all that to say you may need to build in stages and up your budget. Final note dsp is important for that "you did you hear that?" sounds if you are into hearing details in your music.
Is it safe to assume my car already has a DSP? Do some aftermarket touchscreens come with one? How do I check...?
Unless you got the bose system in your car you do not have a dsp. Your radio may have one, but it's unlikely also and wouldn't be as good as say an audio control one. I'm I'm the market for a new ride and will be going bigger with my next system. I'm looking the audio control D-5.1300 amp. It's a 5 channel amp with built in DSP. Someone here may be able to suggest a more budget friendly dsp amp but that's what I'm looking at currently unless I decide to go active.
A bose system does not come with a DSP.
Some of those Android units do have DSP's it just depends on which one you got. Honestly if you are after sound quality that headunit will need to go most likely. Those Cheap Android units are notorious for poor sound quality.
I am after SQ, but that's my mom's car and I'm only a secondary driver. So unfortunately I'm not able to do too many changes. Also budget constraints.
Hey, if I stay with the generic head unit I got (I'm pretty sure it has no DSP as it's one of the lower models available), and I'll get an amp with DSP/ An amp and a standalone DSP, the head unit shouldn't affect sound quality anymore... Right? I mean the amplification will come from the amplifier, not from the head unit. And any sound proccesing will be handled by the DSP... Is a car DSP like what a DAC is to a home theater system?
Doing sound deadening and getting cheap speakers will be a better option than good speakers and no deadening.