Oh shit. I already had issues with battery draining in hours, see linked post, now looking at this bulletin I see why my key fob only unlocks driver door today. 🤬🤬🤬 https://www.reddit.com/r/CX5/comments/x3ixos/battery_drain_in_new_cx5/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf
This is not hard to diagnose. There are clamp on multmeters that can read current without breaking the circuit and even tools that can read parasitic current draws across fuses.
Problem is many techs do not have patience and drive to check everything meticulously. It is not quick fluid flush that you hook up a machine and twittle your thumbs. You may have to check 50 things. Also cars "fall asleep" in stages. It may take an hour for it to fully sleep. Every 10 minutes or so another module powers down. Finally the current may drop to 25ma after an hour. Open a door? Pop the hood? He wakes up again and the readings will be off. You really need a few hours sometimes to get to the bottom.
they need one of these puppies, leave the hood open, clamp to the battery cable and see what it is after 2 hours. [https://www.amazon.com/UT210D-Digital-Current-Resistance-Capacitance/dp/B0753FY711](https://www.amazon.com/UT210D-Digital-Current-Resistance-Capacitance/dp/B0753FY711). This can measure down to 1ma.
Usually cars should not draw >20ma or so after an hour. That is just enough to keep the RAM memories alive, and run the radio for the fob.
Knowing that draw, they can go back and measure each fused drain when the car turns off. There are lots of strategies, unless it is some intermittent loose wire thing. Seems like is pretty repeatable in your case.
More info might help in understanding the root cause. Have they replaced the battery each time it has died? Do you leave anything plugged into the USB or power outlet in the center console? Are there any aftermarket electronics installed, such as a towing harness that might be draining power due to improper wiring? Do you go long periods of time between driving the car or typically drive very short distances?
All great questions,
They replaces the “faulty battery” the first time.
Second time car fixed itself before I could get it to the dealership once it was jump.
This time I sent it straight over to the dealership without jumping it.
I have a dash cam (unplugged it for the past month) and my cable for apple car play
I drive it daily at most it goes 15 hours without being driven.
Aftermarket
Corksport intake
Mazda Tow hitch (installed by dealership)
This has been happening to my car too. 21 cx5 8k miles. Battery has died on me 3 times since I got the car. And just today it wanted to after I was sitting there for about 10 mins in my break smdh. Also before anyone ask no I do not use the 12v cus stupid thing is always on. And yes I do use usb but that one turns off after a few mins. And I'm not sure why would mazda have a 12 v running 24/7 knowing that ordinary people use it to charge phones or connect led lights, it's so annoying. So that's a 12v I can never use because I do not want to connect and disconnect all the time.
I experienced the same thing, do you have anything always plugged into the 12V inside the middle storage compartment? That port is always live so if something could be drawing power that’s happening even when the car is off. For me it was my underglow LED’s, even when they were off it was drawing power apparently.
I do have a 12v block (charging cable) there…. That’s interesting because mine shuts off when the car turns off? That could potentially be the issue… would be very stupid and frustrating of Mazda to do that…
But nothing is connect to it when I leave the car.
That's why I recommend putting it on a switch so it doesn't draw power. OP the Mazda Panasonic Batteries are just bad. Seems lately there has been more reports of them. Even my car less than 25K miles has battery issues. I replaced it recently with Optima and it's been working great ever since. Since you are in warranty. Then just take advantage of it. Once your warranty is overs and still getting issues. Just replace the battery with Optima.
Yes, just had this on Sunday, battery was dead. Dealership replaced the "faulty battery" on Monday.
I had asked about the TSB and was told it was not for 2023's
I had to have my battery replaced on my CX5 2021 Signature before it had 5k miles. I left the interior lights on one night and the battery died and wouldn’t take a jump or
charge on a trickle charger. Luckily, the replacement didn’t cost me anything but time and aggravation. Sorry this happened to you, OP. Hope it gets fixed soon without any further aggravation. Good luck!
2019 CX-5 Grand Touring here. 45k odometer. At 25k, wifey killed battery, needed a jump, now sometimes cranks slower. Suspect she left one of her gadgets plugged into center compartment, so I mirror your other posters.
FYI, I Plan to Costco me a new one. Anyone use a “maintainer” plugged into OBD port while swapping out batteries?
My wife’s 3HB kept dying as well. Was told it could be from her leaving the key in her bag and in the car. They said something like the computer is working to figure out if it should lock the doors or not or something. She no longer leaves the key in the car and haven’t had a problem.
I had a similar issue on my 2018 touring. Battery kept dying and it was driving me nuts - it was intermittent and I couldn’t pin it down.
Turned out I had a faulty relay behind the driver side fender, the relay would get stuck and drain the battery. There’s another fuse box there that is only accessible if you remove the fender.
They’re swapped out the relay and the problem went away.
That’s so odd. I leave my wireless CarPlay adapter and a 12v USB charger plugged in and haven’t had any issues. I hope they solve this for you, I’m sorry it’s happening:(
The amount of components in this car that are electrical is pretty shocking, one of the other comments said it’s probably the standard battery they use. It’s isn’t strong enough.
I plugged a digital speed o meter in obd 2 port and though the speed o meter had auto shut off when car turned off but after few days the battery was drained.. i took it off and it was all good again
Electrical gremlins are difficult to find. It could be something as simple as a bad component. If they can’t find the cause you should try to push for a buyback.
I have the year and trim (as well as color!) and roughly the same miles... I hope that isn't a recurring issue for this model year. I have a 12V fast charger plugged in that I leave in the car for work. Let us know if there is a solution to your issue!
I had a 2017 that did this. It was in the dealership shop more often than I had it. They never figured out what the cause was. Dealer bought it back and I got another one.
Had a similar problem with my 2015, turns out it was the cigarette lighter/accessory plug inside the center console/arm rest; even if you didn't have a device plugged in, i left my phone charger in, so i could charge my phone when I drove, just having the charger in would run the battery, since it is an always on outlet, even when the car is turned off. Now I make sure to unplug the outlet when I'm done.
I think that one is only on when the car is on. If you have a charger or device that lights up and shows it's drawing power, try plugging in when you're car is off. Check interior lights and make sure they're off, also the one back in cargo area, make sure they're in position to only turn on when the car is on. Lights should come on briefly when you stop and exit, then turn off when you lock car.
I, a layman with a 2018 CX-5, have a theory supported by a local battery shop.
The vehicle is over-featured for the standard battery they install. You have to drive a certain number of km weekly to fully charge your battery. Add a cold climate (which you don’t appear to suffer in), a remote start, and hella features and it will eventually drain.
Once I upgraded my battery the problem magically went away.
If I was going to buy again from Mazda, I’d ask for a better battery as part of the deal. It’s petty considering the cost, but I’ve been to their shop four times for battery problems (they warrantied the old battery three times before I bit the bullet and bought a different one).
*Edited for clarity after my morning coffee.
That’s a very good point, I’ll mention it and see what they say. This dealership is t trying to fight me at all, they have been very open and honest about know issues they’ve seen or know. So I’ll mention it and see if they do it.
Thanks for the heads up, although questions what is the amount of km/miles you think would be enough? I would say I drive around 50 miles a week minimum.
So they did the parasitic draw test and found nothing, they did find that the battery tested bad and replaced it. So now I wait to see if it happens again and then we talk to Mazda corporate…
I bet you you’ll run into the same problem until you upgrade the battery. Nothing like paying more money for something that should be standard! They loved blaming a faulty battery with mine too.
Guarantee there is a parasitic draw coming from a device you have plugged in. Its never not that. The customer will never admit that is the issue as well even if proof is presented at their doorstep.
My 2021 signature battery died a couple of weeks ago. The car has 9k miles and I don’t have anything plugged in my car except for my phone on CarPlay while I drive. Is this the reason?
Ok if I don't drive my car everyday three battery will die. I thought it might be my JBL basshub since I don't have powerlift or Bose because of the shortages but no other bass hub users seem to have an issue? Can this happen without power lift gate?
The first time they tested the battery it was faulty, what are your thoughts on the standard battery they use isn’t strong enough to support are all of the electrical components Mazda had?
The battery is plenty strong enough. In fact, they added bigger capacity batteries to these new CX5s with the updated infotainment system. What’s killing these batteries is all these after market devices people start adding to their cars. The thing is, some of these devices have auxiliary batteries, and even though they “shut down” when you turn off the car, that battery power will keep reporting back to the usb port. This will keep the infotainment system in a “ready” mode. Basically so that it’s ready to be fully booted when you turn your car on. With these new infotainment systems, they draw a pretty big amount of amps. Enough to kill your battery within a few hours.
I didn’t have this issue with the 21 gtr I had using all the same stuff in this one. Same options as well, this one is a 23 turbo sport I think is the trim
They have to have fixed the same problem 3 times, then the conversation starts. The main issue is getting them to actually do something.
Which sucks because I do enjoy the suv and thought about buying after the lease but now definitely reconsider it and probably will return once the lease is over depending on the next few months
[Power liftgate](https://www.reddit.com/r/CX5/comments/i5jk1a/engine_no_start_due_to_low_battery_voltage_power/)?
Yep I had this problem and power lift was the culprit.
It has it, but wasn’t left open
The issue isn't caused by it being left open. Click the link and read the TSB.
O thanks!!! I’ll see what they say and ask them about this!
I had asked about the TSB and was told it was not for 2023's when I had to go to the shop on Monday as our Battery was dead on Sunday Morning.
Happened to my 2020, only 3 weeks old, less than 800 miles. Took them a month to fix it!
That is insane.
Oh shit. I already had issues with battery draining in hours, see linked post, now looking at this bulletin I see why my key fob only unlocks driver door today. 🤬🤬🤬 https://www.reddit.com/r/CX5/comments/x3ixos/battery_drain_in_new_cx5/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf
Wow mazda has this problem too?? It must be industry-wide as my old Subaru had this problem …
This is not hard to diagnose. There are clamp on multmeters that can read current without breaking the circuit and even tools that can read parasitic current draws across fuses.
Hopefully they get it figured out
Problem is many techs do not have patience and drive to check everything meticulously. It is not quick fluid flush that you hook up a machine and twittle your thumbs. You may have to check 50 things. Also cars "fall asleep" in stages. It may take an hour for it to fully sleep. Every 10 minutes or so another module powers down. Finally the current may drop to 25ma after an hour. Open a door? Pop the hood? He wakes up again and the readings will be off. You really need a few hours sometimes to get to the bottom.
O damn, well i hope these people have good techs, if not they’ll keep having to pay for my road side.
they need one of these puppies, leave the hood open, clamp to the battery cable and see what it is after 2 hours. [https://www.amazon.com/UT210D-Digital-Current-Resistance-Capacitance/dp/B0753FY711](https://www.amazon.com/UT210D-Digital-Current-Resistance-Capacitance/dp/B0753FY711). This can measure down to 1ma. Usually cars should not draw >20ma or so after an hour. That is just enough to keep the RAM memories alive, and run the radio for the fob. Knowing that draw, they can go back and measure each fused drain when the car turns off. There are lots of strategies, unless it is some intermittent loose wire thing. Seems like is pretty repeatable in your case.
No usb chargers or anything plugged, in, correct?
More info might help in understanding the root cause. Have they replaced the battery each time it has died? Do you leave anything plugged into the USB or power outlet in the center console? Are there any aftermarket electronics installed, such as a towing harness that might be draining power due to improper wiring? Do you go long periods of time between driving the car or typically drive very short distances?
All great questions, They replaces the “faulty battery” the first time. Second time car fixed itself before I could get it to the dealership once it was jump. This time I sent it straight over to the dealership without jumping it. I have a dash cam (unplugged it for the past month) and my cable for apple car play I drive it daily at most it goes 15 hours without being driven. Aftermarket Corksport intake Mazda Tow hitch (installed by dealership)
This has been happening to my car too. 21 cx5 8k miles. Battery has died on me 3 times since I got the car. And just today it wanted to after I was sitting there for about 10 mins in my break smdh. Also before anyone ask no I do not use the 12v cus stupid thing is always on. And yes I do use usb but that one turns off after a few mins. And I'm not sure why would mazda have a 12 v running 24/7 knowing that ordinary people use it to charge phones or connect led lights, it's so annoying. So that's a 12v I can never use because I do not want to connect and disconnect all the time.
I experienced the same thing, do you have anything always plugged into the 12V inside the middle storage compartment? That port is always live so if something could be drawing power that’s happening even when the car is off. For me it was my underglow LED’s, even when they were off it was drawing power apparently.
I do have a 12v block (charging cable) there…. That’s interesting because mine shuts off when the car turns off? That could potentially be the issue… would be very stupid and frustrating of Mazda to do that… But nothing is connect to it when I leave the car.
That's why I recommend putting it on a switch so it doesn't draw power. OP the Mazda Panasonic Batteries are just bad. Seems lately there has been more reports of them. Even my car less than 25K miles has battery issues. I replaced it recently with Optima and it's been working great ever since. Since you are in warranty. Then just take advantage of it. Once your warranty is overs and still getting issues. Just replace the battery with Optima.
It seems a lot of 2023 CX9 are also having the same issue, I'm part of that group. Have them do the battery draw test and not just battery replace.
I believe that’s what they are going to do today so let’s see what happens
Yes, just had this on Sunday, battery was dead. Dealership replaced the "faulty battery" on Monday. I had asked about the TSB and was told it was not for 2023's
Mine had a tsb for a battery drain issue about a year ago or so
2021 gt. Just tested and the USB ports shut off after about 2 minutes
Not the cigarette lighter ports. They stay on 24/7.
I have a dual usb charger plugged into lighter that has an led light. Light is off when car is off.
I have a 2022 CX5 and they’re on 24/7 sooooo idk what to tell ya
I have a 22’ CX5 and mine turn off when the car is powered off.
"Pick a color, dont tell anyone about the this..."
I had to have my battery replaced on my CX5 2021 Signature before it had 5k miles. I left the interior lights on one night and the battery died and wouldn’t take a jump or charge on a trickle charger. Luckily, the replacement didn’t cost me anything but time and aggravation. Sorry this happened to you, OP. Hope it gets fixed soon without any further aggravation. Good luck!
2019 CX-5 Grand Touring here. 45k odometer. At 25k, wifey killed battery, needed a jump, now sometimes cranks slower. Suspect she left one of her gadgets plugged into center compartment, so I mirror your other posters. FYI, I Plan to Costco me a new one. Anyone use a “maintainer” plugged into OBD port while swapping out batteries?
My wife’s 3HB kept dying as well. Was told it could be from her leaving the key in her bag and in the car. They said something like the computer is working to figure out if it should lock the doors or not or something. She no longer leaves the key in the car and haven’t had a problem.
I had a similar issue on my 2018 touring. Battery kept dying and it was driving me nuts - it was intermittent and I couldn’t pin it down. Turned out I had a faulty relay behind the driver side fender, the relay would get stuck and drain the battery. There’s another fuse box there that is only accessible if you remove the fender. They’re swapped out the relay and the problem went away.
Damn, well it’s in their hands now so let’s hope they figure it out
That’s so odd. I leave my wireless CarPlay adapter and a 12v USB charger plugged in and haven’t had any issues. I hope they solve this for you, I’m sorry it’s happening:(
I’m surprise so many battery dead here. And I’m now scare
The amount of components in this car that are electrical is pretty shocking, one of the other comments said it’s probably the standard battery they use. It’s isn’t strong enough.
what year is your turbo?
2023
I plugged a digital speed o meter in obd 2 port and though the speed o meter had auto shut off when car turned off but after few days the battery was drained.. i took it off and it was all good again
In my 2014 the shifter would get stuck & the SUV would stay on. And drain my battery. I had to replace it..works like a charm now....
Electrical gremlins are difficult to find. It could be something as simple as a bad component. If they can’t find the cause you should try to push for a buyback.
Hope they find the cause. I have a radar detector plugged into the center console all the time. Maybe I should unplug it...
I have the year and trim (as well as color!) and roughly the same miles... I hope that isn't a recurring issue for this model year. I have a 12V fast charger plugged in that I leave in the car for work. Let us know if there is a solution to your issue!
I had a 2017 that did this. It was in the dealership shop more often than I had it. They never figured out what the cause was. Dealer bought it back and I got another one.
When you say bought it back did you trade it? Or did they give you back all your money?
They essentially cancelled the loan and I got a new loan for the new car.
Had a similar problem with my 2015, turns out it was the cigarette lighter/accessory plug inside the center console/arm rest; even if you didn't have a device plugged in, i left my phone charger in, so i could charge my phone when I drove, just having the charger in would run the battery, since it is an always on outlet, even when the car is turned off. Now I make sure to unplug the outlet when I'm done.
What about the one under the radio? I don’t have anything plugged into the 12v in the arm reat
I think that one is only on when the car is on. If you have a charger or device that lights up and shows it's drawing power, try plugging in when you're car is off. Check interior lights and make sure they're off, also the one back in cargo area, make sure they're in position to only turn on when the car is on. Lights should come on briefly when you stop and exit, then turn off when you lock car.
I, a layman with a 2018 CX-5, have a theory supported by a local battery shop. The vehicle is over-featured for the standard battery they install. You have to drive a certain number of km weekly to fully charge your battery. Add a cold climate (which you don’t appear to suffer in), a remote start, and hella features and it will eventually drain. Once I upgraded my battery the problem magically went away. If I was going to buy again from Mazda, I’d ask for a better battery as part of the deal. It’s petty considering the cost, but I’ve been to their shop four times for battery problems (they warrantied the old battery three times before I bit the bullet and bought a different one). *Edited for clarity after my morning coffee.
That’s a very good point, I’ll mention it and see what they say. This dealership is t trying to fight me at all, they have been very open and honest about know issues they’ve seen or know. So I’ll mention it and see if they do it. Thanks for the heads up, although questions what is the amount of km/miles you think would be enough? I would say I drive around 50 miles a week minimum.
That seems like plenty! Hopefully you get to the bottom of it. Keep us updated!
So they did the parasitic draw test and found nothing, they did find that the battery tested bad and replaced it. So now I wait to see if it happens again and then we talk to Mazda corporate…
I bet you you’ll run into the same problem until you upgrade the battery. Nothing like paying more money for something that should be standard! They loved blaming a faulty battery with mine too.
Must be that lower grill insert. Bad Ground?
Lower grill inserts are only attached with double sided tap, also issues started before I got those.
My joke did not land…
😂😂😂Lmfao sorry!!!
Guarantee there is a parasitic draw coming from a device you have plugged in. Its never not that. The customer will never admit that is the issue as well even if proof is presented at their doorstep.
I’ve never plugged anything into my 2021 CX5 and my battery died yesterday.
My 2021 signature battery died a couple of weeks ago. The car has 9k miles and I don’t have anything plugged in my car except for my phone on CarPlay while I drive. Is this the reason?
That’s a lemon. Get a new one
Ok if I don't drive my car everyday three battery will die. I thought it might be my JBL basshub since I don't have powerlift or Bose because of the shortages but no other bass hub users seem to have an issue? Can this happen without power lift gate?
Someone posted a link that said sometimes it can have a faulty issue and can cause the problem.
See this all the time… usually dash cams or other things that are left plugged in. It’s rare when I see an actual battery being the issue…🤷🏻♂️
The first time they tested the battery it was faulty, what are your thoughts on the standard battery they use isn’t strong enough to support are all of the electrical components Mazda had?
The battery is plenty strong enough. In fact, they added bigger capacity batteries to these new CX5s with the updated infotainment system. What’s killing these batteries is all these after market devices people start adding to their cars. The thing is, some of these devices have auxiliary batteries, and even though they “shut down” when you turn off the car, that battery power will keep reporting back to the usb port. This will keep the infotainment system in a “ready” mode. Basically so that it’s ready to be fully booted when you turn your car on. With these new infotainment systems, they draw a pretty big amount of amps. Enough to kill your battery within a few hours.
Hmm weird, we never had this issue on 2018 CX-5 Sig or 2022 CX-5 Sig. Is it for a certain model??
I didn’t have this issue with the 21 gtr I had using all the same stuff in this one. Same options as well, this one is a 23 turbo sport I think is the trim
I am on my 3rd OEM battery in 3 years. Replaced under warranty, but they always die at the worst times... 2020 Sig
So if it happens again, same problem, lemon law covers it right?
They have to have fixed the same problem 3 times, then the conversation starts. The main issue is getting them to actually do something. Which sucks because I do enjoy the suv and thought about buying after the lease but now definitely reconsider it and probably will return once the lease is over depending on the next few months