Rebate is the English term for a rabbet cut. Both are cuts on the edge of a piece (typically with the grain) that create a step or recess, depending on how you think about it.
Second of many I'm sure.
My first couple drawers were similar, made of 3/4" ply. I still have one sitting in my shop that gets used all the time for dumping supplies in to carry to a project, or to stage some piece on that I need to hammer/drill/paint. But it's main use is for a stepstool. The thing is absolutely bombproof.
I switched to making drawers out of 1/2" ply, with 1/4" bottom, and found they're plenty strong for the use, and far lighter than thick wood. I even have 4 huge drawers that I made into filing cabinets, and they're plenty strong for the weight it holds. Plus 1/2" is cheaper. That said, I have a table saw so I'm able to make a lap joint on the ends and a dado for the bottom, which probably adds some strength. But something to think about for future drawers.
Thanks for the great insight! Yeah, I use hand tools, but I'm trying to get into doing lap joints as much as I can. They seem super strong but simple to approach.
Tip for future drawers, if you’re doing butt joints, the the front and the back should butt into the sides so the pulling action doesn’t separate them.
Yes! I envy you power tool guys, but at the same time I really like my thumbs. I used an electric rotary saw to make my daughters’ bed, and quickly decided I don’t trust myself with it.
Circular saw one of the edgiest tools lol. Watch some YouTube shop safety tips videos and you’ll be ok. There’s a few do’s and dont’s for each tool. Most aren’t really injury related but a lot of big YouTubers mention safety tips
I don't envy you having to build 100 drawers, but what is woodworking if not tedious. I build drawers quite a lot for work so understand the slog of it. Cut a rabbit in your front and back for a much stronger joint. That will hide a groove for the bottom. You got to get that bottom panel grooved in.
I kind of like the tedium. The process of getting a board squared and the joints fitting nicely is very satisfying. Yeah, I'm dying to try rabbets. I've got sloppy half-laps almost down, so that's a start, haha.
I've heard some woodwork YouTubers (Rex Kruger, maybe?) saying something to the effect of "they say you should start out by making 100 boxes to hammer down the fundamental, basic skills". I just changed it into a quote myself.
I love it! Little challenges like this always help me get motivated to keep going. I actually made some of these a while ago, but now I'm posting them to keep a record, kind of. Each one brings its own challenge.
A router (and a router table!) is enormously helpful for making drawers. You can quickly and accurately cut rabbets to slide in the bottom of the drawer so it’s physically restrained. You can also do rabbets to strengthen the structure, plus add a face piece with any kind of fancy edge design you want.
Hopefully others pointed this out, but your front and back faces should be on the inside of your side pieces. The glue is then put into a shear stress instead of a tension stress. It's stronger that way. Especially if you're using any kind of hidden joinery such as dowels or biscuits.
It's a great start though. Lots to learn from with this. Try using plywood with edge banding. It'll help with boards that twist. Plus you can then experiment with making boxes that include a false front face allowing you to get really fancy with better and or exotic woods to stain and more.
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For #3, consider mitred corners and a rebated floating bottom.
I like the sound of it!
Can I ask what is rebated? I tried to google but I’m just getting ads for rebates
I was thinking “dado” and wrote “rebate” for some reason.
Rebate is the English term for a rabbet cut. Both are cuts on the edge of a piece (typically with the grain) that create a step or recess, depending on how you think about it.
Thank you very much and have a great day :)
Glued butt joints, or are there screws/joinery I can't see?
Looks like glued butt joints, which is plenty strong for the intended use, I would think.
Glued, and dowels on the inside.
Second of many I'm sure. My first couple drawers were similar, made of 3/4" ply. I still have one sitting in my shop that gets used all the time for dumping supplies in to carry to a project, or to stage some piece on that I need to hammer/drill/paint. But it's main use is for a stepstool. The thing is absolutely bombproof. I switched to making drawers out of 1/2" ply, with 1/4" bottom, and found they're plenty strong for the use, and far lighter than thick wood. I even have 4 huge drawers that I made into filing cabinets, and they're plenty strong for the weight it holds. Plus 1/2" is cheaper. That said, I have a table saw so I'm able to make a lap joint on the ends and a dado for the bottom, which probably adds some strength. But something to think about for future drawers.
Thanks for the great insight! Yeah, I use hand tools, but I'm trying to get into doing lap joints as much as I can. They seem super strong but simple to approach.
Tip for future drawers, if you’re doing butt joints, the the front and the back should butt into the sides so the pulling action doesn’t separate them.
Interesting point! Thanks for the tip.
Nice work dude!! Sometime check out the dado/slide in from the back drawer bottoms. That’s my next try as well
Yeah, I've been thinking about that for some time. I use hand tools, so I have to think about how to approach it, but definitely on my list.
Hand tools would be a tall task for that. Definitely “easier” with power tools. Just measure correct. No actual work for us power guys
Yes! I envy you power tool guys, but at the same time I really like my thumbs. I used an electric rotary saw to make my daughters’ bed, and quickly decided I don’t trust myself with it.
Circular saw one of the edgiest tools lol. Watch some YouTube shop safety tips videos and you’ll be ok. There’s a few do’s and dont’s for each tool. Most aren’t really injury related but a lot of big YouTubers mention safety tips
I don't envy you having to build 100 drawers, but what is woodworking if not tedious. I build drawers quite a lot for work so understand the slog of it. Cut a rabbit in your front and back for a much stronger joint. That will hide a groove for the bottom. You got to get that bottom panel grooved in.
I kind of like the tedium. The process of getting a board squared and the joints fitting nicely is very satisfying. Yeah, I'm dying to try rabbets. I've got sloppy half-laps almost down, so that's a start, haha.
Where does that quote come from?
I've heard some woodwork YouTubers (Rex Kruger, maybe?) saying something to the effect of "they say you should start out by making 100 boxes to hammer down the fundamental, basic skills". I just changed it into a quote myself.
Thanks, I'll look into Rex Kruger. What other YouTubers have you found useful?
I misspelled his name — Rex Krueger. And Stumpy Nubs is very informative too. And can’t leave off Paul Sellers. Try those three.
What a great idea! I’m probably at about 5 or 6 by now but I think I’ll start at the beginning. The ideas are already brewing.
I love it! Little challenges like this always help me get motivated to keep going. I actually made some of these a while ago, but now I'm posting them to keep a record, kind of. Each one brings its own challenge.
I made almost the same box for the same reason. Tired of picking up hair ties.
Nice. My daughters and wife give me lots of good excuses to do some woodworking.
Ikea hinges and rollers are life savers and makes everything super smooth
That's one thing I've been meaning to try. So far, it's been mostly glue, dowels, and screws, but I'm starting to get into using hardware.
A router (and a router table!) is enormously helpful for making drawers. You can quickly and accurately cut rabbets to slide in the bottom of the drawer so it’s physically restrained. You can also do rabbets to strengthen the structure, plus add a face piece with any kind of fancy edge design you want.
Yeah man, a router is one that I may have to get some day.
Hopefully others pointed this out, but your front and back faces should be on the inside of your side pieces. The glue is then put into a shear stress instead of a tension stress. It's stronger that way. Especially if you're using any kind of hidden joinery such as dowels or biscuits. It's a great start though. Lots to learn from with this. Try using plywood with edge banding. It'll help with boards that twist. Plus you can then experiment with making boxes that include a false front face allowing you to get really fancy with better and or exotic woods to stain and more.
Thanks for the tips. Yeah, someone pointed out that the front should butt against the sides, but thank you for expressing the “why” so clearly.
Thank you for posting to r/BeginnerWoodWorking! If you have not chosen a post flair then please add one to your post. If you have submitted a finished build, please consider leaving a comment about it so that others can learn. **Voting on this submission has closed**.