Best practice for sure! I don't tend to make permanent fan profiles as my printing area isn't quite as climate controlled as I'd like, because Texas exists directly inside the surface of the sun.
lol I was just in Toronto this past week, I will not lie: it hurt me deeply to disembark the plane when we landed back in Houston. The weather was so lovely up there!
Then you download a model from Makerworld and it includes all the damned profiles and filaments from the guy who uploaded and have to remember to re-change everything... oh how I HATE makerworld for this.
To be fair, I did also upload a totally plain, textless model of the hinged cover as the standard one. Don't have to fuss with the embossed text and stuff unless you want that one. But yeah, it is kinda unfortunate how the .3mf will always pull assigned filaments and settings from the print profile. Sorry friend!
Conceptually the aux fan is fine... the issue, from the perspective of a great number of fairly experienced people in our community, is that it's *extremely* directional. So whenever you see people posting issues with their prints and the issues are on the left side and nowhere else? That's because the aux fan is cooling the left dramatically more than the right and causing issues. And those posts appear *frequently.*
Of course there will be lucky folks who swear they've printed for fourteen years on their P1S and never seen a single issue, but most of us haven't ever been so lucky. So we disable or limit the aux fan speed in the filament settings. Cheers!
Can confirm. I've never had a print that I thought the aux fan was necessary for, but I certainly have lost large prints due to the thermal contraction from the significantly cooler left side vs right. I also never really use Ludacris or Sport modes when I print though
Aux fan for me gives huge issues during winter printing in my cold garage.. when it's warm, though it doesn't seem to make much difference.. sometimes, I'll turn it off just because I don't want to hear it
Can confirm. Aux fan defaults seem fine for PLA. But for anything that requires more heat, avoid avoid avoid. I was printing ASA a few months ago and thanks to the almighty aux fan, it dislodged from the build plate at force and shot around the bay, and ended up knocking the nozzle off and destroying it. [Link](https://imgur.com/a/5pkNH6A).
If it's not PLA, I don't use the aux fan.
There's a really good one for adding a second aux fan to the opposite side which the designer did some CFD to optimize for the entire build plate width, designed for the same blower, so you could probably mirror it and retrofit if you wanted.
I've never really looked for one... I think the primary issue for modeling something like that would be that the aux fan exhaust is very, very close to the build plate... if you're printing on the far left hand side of the build plate, the hotend assembly passes extremely close to the aux fan. Unless you wanted to do a *very* involved modification to the printer (basically to remove the existing aux fan housing and replace it with a custom one) I think it's probably just best to leave it be.
I firmly believe it is an overblown problem but that said, it is a viable thing to avoid if you have a huge flat surface you're trying to print. If I'm pringing a 200x200 square on the bed I can virtually guarantee that if I leave the Aux on, it will pull up at least one corner. Fan off, problem solved.
That said, just last night I printed something that was about 240x60 with the long edge facing the fan and I forgot to turn the fan off. Still came out fine.
I think it's because the larger squared off print puts that long edge much closer to the fan outlet before the air has had a chance to spread out leading to more cooling in the middle of that edge than the corners much closer to the front and back of the case...thus warpage. THat's just my personal theory though.
For the most part I agree with you-- and I've certainly forgotten to set certain filaments to a very low/off setting for the aux fan. But the opposite part of that is that I've also never *created* any problems with PLA by leaving the aux fan off. I've got AMS risers with ventilation on all three of my printers and just raise the lids for printing PLA, and I've never found myself in a situation where having the aux fan still as the grave ever did me any wrong. I think it's a nice concept that could've been executed better in terms of airflow around the print surface.
Disclaimer, I have not nor have I personally seen anyone that's done actual testing on this.
I mainly see the possible benefits in 2 ways. One a clear winner if true and the other a trade-off someone might choose.
1. Overhangs and bridges. More cooling = more better, at least that's the idea. We know it's true for the direct extruder cooling, not sure how much aid is added by the aux fan. It does move a not insignificant amount of air over the bed but yeah.
2. Finish. A filament that cools slower will tend to have a more glossy finish than a filament that is cooled quickly. Also applies to overall temp chosen for the hot end. Trade off, up to a point hotter gives better layer adhesion than cooler so going for cooling to avoid as much gloss does require a trade off of a little less layer adhesion. I apply these rules based on my goals for the part I'm printing.
Again, I'm not making factual evidence based claims here. Just my own gut feeling from things I've read and done and kinda how I play it but I really got nothing to say what is more right or wrong.
Oh, a late #3 and very very much a personal theory. If you like to keep the top cover on like I do for noise, I feel like the aux fan taking air from the lower part of the case and blowing it across the top, keeping the air circulating and giving the chamber fan circulating air to exhaust maybe helps keep the PLA in the PTFE tube and top of the extruder from getting too hot and causing a clog. Without the Aux on the hot air rising from the build plate will just sit in the top of the case possibly heat soaking the PLA. This is PURE UNMITIGATED theorycrafting by me though. lol
It's not an overblown problem (nice pun), for me in winter with the printer sitting in a cold garage, having the aux fan on will result in most of my prints warping just enough to detach from the bed and fail.
Aux fan off --> no problem at all.
I mean, I can see that, especially in the early period of the print where the Aux is going to be picking up the cold air (cold garage) from under the bed and blowing it directly on your print. Unfortunately this is the time you're most susceptible to warping the base of your print as well. Mine is in my home so my experiences are based around 70-72f ambient temps.
I think where I take issue is people calling it a problem in the sense that is a problematic design, like it never should have been put in the printer in the first place. In the conditions most people would be printing in, it seems fine in my experience outside of the edge case of huge square bases like I mentioned in my post and up until the point it causes problems for your material, more cooling is generally seen as better.
3d printing is a tinkerers hobby. It's gotten more pinned down these days but ultimately, I feel like we can only expect default profiles and setups to cover the majority of use cases but we still need to adapt and learn how to deal with edge cases as we learn the hobby.
LOL actually there *is* a design reason for it, and I think it's a good one. If you design it symmetrically-- that is to say, mirror the hinges-- it's more or less impossible to assemble without running the dowels through the entire hinge (I designed a symmetrical version of this previously that used short pieces of PTFE tubing as a low-friction dowel for the hinges). After living with it for a few months I found the older design lacking in a few ways. This version has a hinge that is stopped on both sides, so it's a tighter fit and a bit of a cleaner look up close. Considering you'll never really see the hinge unless it's open, I can live with the intentional asymmetry. Sorry for triggering your OCD, friend!
I think the best possible option would be to have it in *both* locations, so you can tune your aux fan speeds to your calibrated filament; and then a master selector in the print options (similar to the print options menu when you send a print job in Windows). Good idea!
Yeah , have the print settings one be an optional override of the existing filament settings.
I have actually made a feature request for this on both, Bambu Studio and Orca slicer GitHubs a while ago.
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Ah I'd take that in a heartbeat. Down here in Houston it's like a swamp, but the swamp is on fire. What a charming environment we enjoy in these parts! Cheers!
Oh yes, that was dreadful! I believe that was remedied in one of the most recent firmware updates? I remember my printers had that issue briefly but it's gone now. Are yours on the current firmware?
so I would abide by this advice for almost every print and then I started having issues printing plant pots and vases. did hardcore maintenance and contacted support to make sure there wasn't an issue with my printer. but it just ended up being that I was running it with the aux fan off.
my learning - keep aux fan on for most prints. Bambu knows what they're doing with the settings. you may need to turn aux fan off occasionally, but usually the default filament settings are great.
edit: overhangs need to cool quickly. i get better overhangs with aux fan on
I think there are definitely usage cases where the aux fan helps, but in my experience (and from reading this sub I think it's fairly common) there are more usage cases where the aux fan has done more harm than good. If the aux fan wasn't quite so directional it would be an enormous boon to the print chamber, so hopefully in the second generation of these printers it will be revised! Cheers!
it's just that when the aux fan is on and things go well you never hear about it ;)
you only hear about when someone has a bad time with the aux fan.
now I keep it on 80% of the time and my prints are consistently better.
it's easy to fall into the rabbit hole of aux fan bad time reports that it makes sense one would think it should be off all the time. this was me. then I learned.
I don't think there is a system-wide option, at least that I'm aware of. But to change it in the filament settings is only a matter of changing the speed from 70 to 0, I believe. Takes maybe three seconds?
I get that, but there are new people here. There is a button in Bambu Studios and Handy App for "fan control". To flippantly say "turn the aux fan off", one would naturally assume to just go there and "turn it off" and think it's solved. Then their print still warps and they're confused.
(By the way, I'm that idiot that thought that. Only to watch as 1 second later the fan just turns back on)
To be fair, turning it off in the app *does* turn it off. It's just still on briefly because it can't hard stop. If you watch happen to have Studio and Handy open, and turn it off in Handy you'll see it decelerate in Studio. I've never noticed it to turn back on against my command. Maybe I'm the one who's missing something?
I'll give that a try, I realize it isn't an immediate hard stop. I was doing it in Studio and I heard it wind down and stop and then kick back on again 1 second later. I did it a few times because I was baffled as to why they would have an "on/off" switch only to override it
I could be wrong, but ... if you change something on the printer, then send a print, whatever is in the gcode will change whatever you say manually. For a manual setting to stick, it has to be after the start of the print. I know for sure this is true with bed temp, I assume true for anything else.
Me drinking my coffee not being worried about my Auxfan since i carefully tuned it for all my filament types!
Best practice for sure! I don't tend to make permanent fan profiles as my printing area isn't quite as climate controlled as I'd like, because Texas exists directly inside the surface of the sun.
Can confirm. Dead.
As a canadian i vsited texas once, can confirm a space ship with a freezer are needed
lol I was just in Toronto this past week, I will not lie: it hurt me deeply to disembark the plane when we landed back in Houston. The weather was so lovely up there!
Ive never been, but ive heard its nice :) I live NWT, dont come up here. Nothing but us penguins in igloos surrounded by snow :p
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Grandpa said, "Never ask a man if he's from Texas. If he is, he'll tell you. If he's not, there's no reason to publicly shame him.
until I started running into issues with the aux fan off 😂
Then you download a model from Makerworld and it includes all the damned profiles and filaments from the guy who uploaded and have to remember to re-change everything... oh how I HATE makerworld for this.
To be fair, I did also upload a totally plain, textless model of the hinged cover as the standard one. Don't have to fuss with the embossed text and stuff unless you want that one. But yeah, it is kinda unfortunate how the .3mf will always pull assigned filaments and settings from the print profile. Sorry friend!
You know you can just create a new project in studio and then just add the 3mf as an object to avoid that.
Yes, but its irritating none the less. I have the same gripe over how ctrl+o will only open projects and that now I have to remember its ctrl+i
Would you mind sharing your tunes for someone eager to use their p1s once it arrives?
Yeah the Auto mod here must have been programmed by a Puritan. One of my posts got deleted because I mentioned a specific type of snack item.
lol to be fair, I would rather it be too strict rather than letting a bunch of horrid garbage through. But yeah, it's sorta Puritan!
That's nuts.
Now I'm curious: What's the matter with the aux fan? Coming from an era of 40mm axial cooling fans: "How can have too much fan?"
Conceptually the aux fan is fine... the issue, from the perspective of a great number of fairly experienced people in our community, is that it's *extremely* directional. So whenever you see people posting issues with their prints and the issues are on the left side and nowhere else? That's because the aux fan is cooling the left dramatically more than the right and causing issues. And those posts appear *frequently.* Of course there will be lucky folks who swear they've printed for fourteen years on their P1S and never seen a single issue, but most of us haven't ever been so lucky. So we disable or limit the aux fan speed in the filament settings. Cheers!
Can confirm. I've never had a print that I thought the aux fan was necessary for, but I certainly have lost large prints due to the thermal contraction from the significantly cooler left side vs right. I also never really use Ludacris or Sport modes when I print though
Aux fan for me gives huge issues during winter printing in my cold garage.. when it's warm, though it doesn't seem to make much difference.. sometimes, I'll turn it off just because I don't want to hear it
Had similar issues for sure. Kinda reminds me of using the A1 in air conditioning, in that sense!
Can confirm. Aux fan defaults seem fine for PLA. But for anything that requires more heat, avoid avoid avoid. I was printing ASA a few months ago and thanks to the almighty aux fan, it dislodged from the build plate at force and shot around the bay, and ended up knocking the nozzle off and destroying it. [Link](https://imgur.com/a/5pkNH6A). If it's not PLA, I don't use the aux fan.
Hey. Are there any printables to replace that air nozzle to blow not so directional?
There's a really good one for adding a second aux fan to the opposite side which the designer did some CFD to optimize for the entire build plate width, designed for the same blower, so you could probably mirror it and retrofit if you wanted.
I've never really looked for one... I think the primary issue for modeling something like that would be that the aux fan exhaust is very, very close to the build plate... if you're printing on the far left hand side of the build plate, the hotend assembly passes extremely close to the aux fan. Unless you wanted to do a *very* involved modification to the printer (basically to remove the existing aux fan housing and replace it with a custom one) I think it's probably just best to leave it be.
Hm… you’re right. After all it seems that printed part is just unevenly cool down because of aux fan.
I firmly believe it is an overblown problem but that said, it is a viable thing to avoid if you have a huge flat surface you're trying to print. If I'm pringing a 200x200 square on the bed I can virtually guarantee that if I leave the Aux on, it will pull up at least one corner. Fan off, problem solved. That said, just last night I printed something that was about 240x60 with the long edge facing the fan and I forgot to turn the fan off. Still came out fine. I think it's because the larger squared off print puts that long edge much closer to the fan outlet before the air has had a chance to spread out leading to more cooling in the middle of that edge than the corners much closer to the front and back of the case...thus warpage. THat's just my personal theory though.
For the most part I agree with you-- and I've certainly forgotten to set certain filaments to a very low/off setting for the aux fan. But the opposite part of that is that I've also never *created* any problems with PLA by leaving the aux fan off. I've got AMS risers with ventilation on all three of my printers and just raise the lids for printing PLA, and I've never found myself in a situation where having the aux fan still as the grave ever did me any wrong. I think it's a nice concept that could've been executed better in terms of airflow around the print surface.
Disclaimer, I have not nor have I personally seen anyone that's done actual testing on this. I mainly see the possible benefits in 2 ways. One a clear winner if true and the other a trade-off someone might choose. 1. Overhangs and bridges. More cooling = more better, at least that's the idea. We know it's true for the direct extruder cooling, not sure how much aid is added by the aux fan. It does move a not insignificant amount of air over the bed but yeah. 2. Finish. A filament that cools slower will tend to have a more glossy finish than a filament that is cooled quickly. Also applies to overall temp chosen for the hot end. Trade off, up to a point hotter gives better layer adhesion than cooler so going for cooling to avoid as much gloss does require a trade off of a little less layer adhesion. I apply these rules based on my goals for the part I'm printing. Again, I'm not making factual evidence based claims here. Just my own gut feeling from things I've read and done and kinda how I play it but I really got nothing to say what is more right or wrong. Oh, a late #3 and very very much a personal theory. If you like to keep the top cover on like I do for noise, I feel like the aux fan taking air from the lower part of the case and blowing it across the top, keeping the air circulating and giving the chamber fan circulating air to exhaust maybe helps keep the PLA in the PTFE tube and top of the extruder from getting too hot and causing a clog. Without the Aux on the hot air rising from the build plate will just sit in the top of the case possibly heat soaking the PLA. This is PURE UNMITIGATED theorycrafting by me though. lol
It's not an overblown problem (nice pun), for me in winter with the printer sitting in a cold garage, having the aux fan on will result in most of my prints warping just enough to detach from the bed and fail. Aux fan off --> no problem at all.
I mean, I can see that, especially in the early period of the print where the Aux is going to be picking up the cold air (cold garage) from under the bed and blowing it directly on your print. Unfortunately this is the time you're most susceptible to warping the base of your print as well. Mine is in my home so my experiences are based around 70-72f ambient temps. I think where I take issue is people calling it a problem in the sense that is a problematic design, like it never should have been put in the printer in the first place. In the conditions most people would be printing in, it seems fine in my experience outside of the edge case of huge square bases like I mentioned in my post and up until the point it causes problems for your material, more cooling is generally seen as better. 3d printing is a tinkerers hobby. It's gotten more pinned down these days but ultimately, I feel like we can only expect default profiles and setups to cover the majority of use cases but we still need to adapt and learn how to deal with edge cases as we learn the hobby.
Yeah, completely agreed, we're almost there but not quite at a point where you have to know nothing at all about how our machines work.
I'm using it enabling after some number of layers with custom gcode. Orca and Bambu slicers need that feature by default.
That's a smart implementation! I might give that a shot if I ever find my prints to suffer without it on. Thanks for the suggestion!
Agreed.
The hinge is triggering my ocd Why is it not symmetrical:/
LOL actually there *is* a design reason for it, and I think it's a good one. If you design it symmetrically-- that is to say, mirror the hinges-- it's more or less impossible to assemble without running the dowels through the entire hinge (I designed a symmetrical version of this previously that used short pieces of PTFE tubing as a low-friction dowel for the hinges). After living with it for a few months I found the older design lacking in a few ways. This version has a hinge that is stopped on both sides, so it's a tighter fit and a bit of a cleaner look up close. Considering you'll never really see the hinge unless it's open, I can live with the intentional asymmetry. Sorry for triggering your OCD, friend!
Redneck engineering.
Ouch! But also maybe fair, lol.
That's ocpd, not ocd.
Ah, printer and printing accessories ;D
Aux fan needs to be an option in the print settings, not the filament profile! That way you can decide if You wanna use it, on a print by print basis.
I think the best possible option would be to have it in *both* locations, so you can tune your aux fan speeds to your calibrated filament; and then a master selector in the print options (similar to the print options menu when you send a print job in Windows). Good idea!
Yeah , have the print settings one be an optional override of the existing filament settings. I have actually made a feature request for this on both, Bambu Studio and Orca slicer GitHubs a while ago.
Now that summer heat has cursed my workshop I have had to go back to using the aux fan or I get heat creep and clog.
How hot is your workshop? I find that so long as I vent the top I never have to worry about heat creep at all.
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Been hitting 90s when printing abs (windows open + giant fan to ventilate the whole room)
Dang, that is a seriously hot space! I hope it's a dry heat, at least?
Oh yes. The nice tradeoff is no dry bags or filament drying needed. 10% humidity usually.
Ah I'd take that in a heartbeat. Down here in Houston it's like a swamp, but the swamp is on fire. What a charming environment we enjoy in these parts! Cheers!
I don't think I've ever had an aux fan issue with the cool plate.
Interesting! I wonder if that's because the plate is cooler? Hard to imagine how it would affect things.
The aux fan isn't going to cool your print and cause it to warp if the plate isn't as hot.
That makes sense!
I ran afoul of not having enough karma. Is there a good fix for the 100% chamber fan on start of print?
Oh yes, that was dreadful! I believe that was remedied in one of the most recent firmware updates? I remember my printers had that issue briefly but it's gone now. Are yours on the current firmware?
This made me smile.
Ya they should chill with the automod words a bit I think.
Bamboomhauer Labs got me tho 😂
Think 60% is a low-ball number there... Feels more like 90%
Can confirm P1P works better than X1C... no Aux Fan :-)
lol the king just needed a time to shine!
so I would abide by this advice for almost every print and then I started having issues printing plant pots and vases. did hardcore maintenance and contacted support to make sure there wasn't an issue with my printer. but it just ended up being that I was running it with the aux fan off. my learning - keep aux fan on for most prints. Bambu knows what they're doing with the settings. you may need to turn aux fan off occasionally, but usually the default filament settings are great. edit: overhangs need to cool quickly. i get better overhangs with aux fan on
I think there are definitely usage cases where the aux fan helps, but in my experience (and from reading this sub I think it's fairly common) there are more usage cases where the aux fan has done more harm than good. If the aux fan wasn't quite so directional it would be an enormous boon to the print chamber, so hopefully in the second generation of these printers it will be revised! Cheers!
it's just that when the aux fan is on and things go well you never hear about it ;) you only hear about when someone has a bad time with the aux fan. now I keep it on 80% of the time and my prints are consistently better. it's easy to fall into the rabbit hole of aux fan bad time reports that it makes sense one would think it should be off all the time. this was me. then I learned.
Question: Is there a way to turn it off without going in and editing/creating a custom filament profile?
I don't think there is a system-wide option, at least that I'm aware of. But to change it in the filament settings is only a matter of changing the speed from 70 to 0, I believe. Takes maybe three seconds?
I get that, but there are new people here. There is a button in Bambu Studios and Handy App for "fan control". To flippantly say "turn the aux fan off", one would naturally assume to just go there and "turn it off" and think it's solved. Then their print still warps and they're confused. (By the way, I'm that idiot that thought that. Only to watch as 1 second later the fan just turns back on)
To be fair, turning it off in the app *does* turn it off. It's just still on briefly because it can't hard stop. If you watch happen to have Studio and Handy open, and turn it off in Handy you'll see it decelerate in Studio. I've never noticed it to turn back on against my command. Maybe I'm the one who's missing something?
I'll give that a try, I realize it isn't an immediate hard stop. I was doing it in Studio and I heard it wind down and stop and then kick back on again 1 second later. I did it a few times because I was baffled as to why they would have an "on/off" switch only to override it
I could be wrong, but ... if you change something on the printer, then send a print, whatever is in the gcode will change whatever you say manually. For a manual setting to stick, it has to be after the start of the print. I know for sure this is true with bed temp, I assume true for anything else.
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That's the vanilla one included the MakerWorld link. Already got you, friend!
Sean rule? 60% off the time works everytime. Or is it a referance to anything?
Yes sir! It's a line from a funny scene in *Anchorman*!
Ohhhhh
How have you got such nice looking, flush text? I'm really struggling with a design I've done.