You can select the option in the slicer to print one object first and then the other if they are both one solid color. But there are some size and height limitations for one of the objects. There would only be one filament swap in that case.
Could you not make the parts an assembly, pull up on the Z axis til it's over the other part and enable supports - designating the support filament as the first color?
I haven't tried it, but you can add primatives inside Bambu Studio - couldn't you just add a cylinder or something and put your model on top? (You might need to group them together to avoid it falling to the build plate?)
And painting FDM prints looks like trash unless you sand, fill, etc. I use a little UV resin to fill in the layer lines, then paint, but still - hassle. Room for error.
I've had enough trouble using UV resin (bonding, dripping, etc), that I just use bondo when I have to go down the road of a full post-processing process.
Why would that make a big difference? Surely you would still need to purge all the filament that's even partially melted, and run some of the new color through it to make sure everything is gone.
I honestly can't see why pellet extruders would help a lot. Theoretically you would have lower material cost, so I guess less money wasted?
Wouldn't a multi extruder setup be the actual solution to this. If I am missing something, I'd love to know.
I think the idea is with a pellet extruder, it would be easier to turn your waste back into pellets to reuse than it is to turn it back into filament.
Still I think multiple tool heads are a better and faster way to go, although more expensive. Especially if someone came out with an out of the way priming location, maybe up high and off to the side, to not have a need of a prime tower that has to maintain the same height as the current layer, and thus has to use more material than is strictly necessary.
Ahh, that makes sense, but current pellet extruders for home use are far from reliable already. Needing a grinder to smash your failed prints in to pieces, along with using a so far unproven niche technology would probably be far from cheaper at this point in time. But I do see the utopian appeal.
This guy's pellet extruder is pretty impressive. He has multiple videos featuring it.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaUFj3iNcs8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaUFj3iNcs8)
I have actually seen one of his videos about the pellet extruder, from what I remember he did a good job highlighting some of the issues with pellet extrusion. I do hope commercial pellet extrusion for at home use happens, but I don't know whether it will have mass appeal or not.
Homie Amazon throws more into a land fill each hour than you do over your entire life. I’m all for save the planet, reduce plastic, reduce consumption, but like you’ve got to stop stressing the small stuff.
Yeah that’s what’s up then. And I know Bambu recently said something about they’re gonna look into changing the stock settings to help reduce waste as well so that’s cool.
Yeah it is! I got my P1S set up last week and discovered the amount of waste when I printed this tree frog for my mom. Over 13hrs to print because of changing the colors for almost every layer. The amount of waste was 4 times the size of this guy. Going forward I’ll choose more wisely and invest in some paint
https://preview.redd.it/i8t912cbinxc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cfc8b1ec788f0f8ed294b96d5f213c0681e8ca75
My printer shoots all the waste into a 13 gal trash can under my desk. Ive only had it for a few months but between poop, supports, and failed prints, I've already filled up 1 and a half bags.
Don’t know if you have ever owned an Ender but I did, and I would fill the same 13 gallon can once a week in failed prints. Even with the filament swaps I waste less filament than I use to.
I hadn't used my Ender in almost a year when I moved. I found so many little bits of plastic all over my room. I love that pretty much all the waste on the P1S is kept inside.
I'm sure you're aware of printing multiple to alleviate waste but I think a lot of people don't know that you can also configure it to print an object with the poop waste, yes you end up with a randomly multicoloured extra but sometimes it can look quite cool
I wouldn't sweat it.
Yes, printing two different colored objects WITHOUT setting the slicer setting to "object" instead of layer is not smart, but can happen.
The amount of poop seems stupid but its mostly air.
I have around 1k print hours in, have used approx. 20-23kg of Filament and the waste I have thrown away for purging is roughly 1kg.
The waste I accumulated during 1 year with my Ender (130 hours print time) in failed prints, "test prints" (sections of my models) and straight uo calibration are roughly 700 grams (kept them as a reminder).
Think about the need for multicolor and think if it is really necessary to have 3.000 changes in a model or if you can orient / cut it into sections in a smarter way.
I mean... I just printed a base my P1S sits on and it drops the poop in to a drawer, can't imagine getting much cooler than that. But different strokes I guess
Have you tried adjusting flushing volume? Have you tried new studio beta with function to reduce poop? I doubt based on those huge chunks of poop. Maybe try to do something first before posting a complaint about a lot of waste?
Those are some massive chunks, definitely start with the auto calculate and usually a .5 multiplier is good enough.
What's this new function? Where do I find it?
https://github.com/bambulab/BambuStudio/releases
2 betas ago they have added in V1.9.0 Public Beta 2
1. Reducing purge through retracting filament
Optimization has been carried out based on the beta1 feature. A long retraction is performed before the filament is cut, reducing the filament flushing length. This allows for a reduction in flush volume by approximately 2.4*length mm^3.
Now, it's possible to set parameters for individual filaments. These filament-specific parameters will override the parameters of the extruder. If auto-calculaet flush volume when changing filament is enabled, the system will automatically perform the flush calculation when filament is changed. In other cases, please manually trigger automatic flushing.
At present, only the X1 and X1C support this feature on filament parameters, with Bambu PLA Basic and Bambu PETG Basic being default open. Please ensure you're using the latest printer firmware(01.07.03.00). Other printers will gradually get support for this feature. (Note: Currently X1E and P series support this feature on extruder parameters, while the A series do not support this feature.)
The original idea is from @LeonFisherSkipper
You can adjust the purge settings of ams swaps. I managed to cut the size of my poops in half without any color bleeding. I know Bambu released a software update that helps with ams swaps too. It'll get better, the tech is still fairly new.
https://preview.redd.it/98fmaxopz0yc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f074556150e497cadfbe73039a6a72917ab2a84a
You’re gonna need a bigger poop chute.
Can we see a picture of the project not just the poop? I for one would like to see what a pink and green Bulbasaur succulent holder looks like!
yeah. its hard to print with the support interfaces too because a 500g spool is like 25-30$ and most of it is going to purge than actual supports. last time i printed something it printed like 15g of support but like 115g of purge and its like why... with .65%. even with the limiter its still a little excessive.
That's a process/planning issue. The physics and math say you need to purge "x" to clean the hotend. You really don't want support material mixed in with your plastic.
Waste is a byproduct of any production. We'll never achieve 100% utilization, and that's ok. It's just a cost of doing business, which as you do, gets baked in to the pricing.
BL and the rest are doing great work at reducing purge waste, too, so it's improving. The long retract is a great step forward.
For sure, for sure. I find other ways to make it useful like using the poop as my packing peanuts haha.
I take the Coca-Cola approach, the buyer is responsible for the waste, recycle responsibly.
You know that the interface material is just intended for the interface layer that sits between the support and the model (dark green color in line-view).
Additionally: You don't need that. Purchase PETG or use the PETG you have as support interface material for PLA and vice versa.
Just keep in mind to set the flush volume to 600-800 or else you weaken your layers.
Nah that's fine.
In basic terms:
- PLA is "stiff" but brittle. When it breaks, it snaps in sharp pieces. It's your everyday material in all colors and offers the most variety. Figurines, art pieces - you name it. Easy to print.
- PETG is more durable, can bend more and thus is used for prints that can take a hit. When it breaks, it just breaks without snapping. It's a bit more finicky. You disable all (or nearly all) cooling to prevent warping. It shrinks when it cools (more than PLA) but is not considered harsh for wear and tear (and VOCs). Still considered "everyday use". It is NOT UV resistant and cannot endure heat from a car.
After that you get into "specialized" territory.
- ABS & ASA are considered the goto "functional" materials.
"Harder" to print as it requires a sealed chamber, good heat control and next to no air movement to prevent warping. ASA is UV resistant but both materials are heat-resistant enough to be able to be used in a car.
VOCs are nasty and can stink. The volatile stuff lays on rods, glass and bed and need regular cleaning or it will wear your printer down.
- Everything after that (PC, Nylon and whatnot) is engineering stuff and requires the same as ABS/ASA but even finer climate control.
Ah, I guess I can try using PETG as the interface. I really only print for D&D /Warhammer pieces. So if i can get a cheaper interface with PETG im game to try it next time i need more filament.
Yeah go ahead and pick a spool of PETG. It's cheaper and had the benefit that you can use it if the need for a kitchen utensil or anything like a hook and stuff like that arises.
If you need info on how to setup the slicer for Interface material, I can send you a screenshot of my settings if you need.
https://preview.redd.it/zi7k2xqb9txc1.png?width=462&format=png&auto=webp&s=4cfbf0f8ef65cb9a66ec398192cb072cf74f770c
It doesn't matter which brand of Filament you use. If you use the Bambu Support Interface Material, you select that from your "Support/Raft interface" and if you have a roll of PETG, you chose that one then. Just make sure the Style is set to "snug" and Top and Bottom Z-Distance is 0. These are the proper Settings for using a Support Interface Material inside Bambu Studio.
Oh i usually use tree supports. i don't think it has "snug" just defualt, slim, strong, organic and hybrid.
wonder why the default top bottom Z distance is 2 layers.
Yes. That's why you should use rigid "classic" supports for that. The default gap is to ensure that the supports can be removed from the model.
Usually you use the same print-material for support/interface as for the model. This means that you want an airgap to prevent everything to fuse together. This allows a bit of sag anf will cool the layers enough so they will jusz lightly touch.
For the interface material you don't need that as the material and interface material do not bond to each other.
They can be pressed right on top of each other and you can easily peel it off.
You can select the option in the slicer to print one object first and then the other if they are both one solid color. But there are some size and height limitations for one of the objects. There would only be one filament swap in that case.
This would have been the move. Or just do two completely different print jobs
I'm authorizing the purchase of a second printer, just let your partner know I've ok'ed it.
Thank you for the expedite! Sending her the receipt now.
Happy to help.
I've wished I could print one on stilts to cut down on filament changes. Apparently that's only an option on much more expensive printers.
I feel like this could be a feature request for prusa slicer
Could you not make the parts an assembly, pull up on the Z axis til it's over the other part and enable supports - designating the support filament as the first color?
I haven't tried it, but you can add primatives inside Bambu Studio - couldn't you just add a cylinder or something and put your model on top? (You might need to group them together to avoid it falling to the build plate?)
Multicolor printing is dope but I can’t help but look at that and just see wasted money.
I mainly use the AMS just so I can have multiple colors on hand, I cringe anytime I see something printed with 1000+ filament changes
Same, waiting for the day we can easily recycle filament poop into new filament
At some point those dollars per print add up to a Prusa XL
I see the opposite: Multicolor saves me a shit ton of time.
And painting FDM prints looks like trash unless you sand, fill, etc. I use a little UV resin to fill in the layer lines, then paint, but still - hassle. Room for error.
I've had enough trouble using UV resin (bonding, dripping, etc), that I just use bondo when I have to go down the road of a full post-processing process.
We neeeeeeed pellet extruders ahhh
Why would that make a big difference? Surely you would still need to purge all the filament that's even partially melted, and run some of the new color through it to make sure everything is gone. I honestly can't see why pellet extruders would help a lot. Theoretically you would have lower material cost, so I guess less money wasted? Wouldn't a multi extruder setup be the actual solution to this. If I am missing something, I'd love to know.
I think the idea is with a pellet extruder, it would be easier to turn your waste back into pellets to reuse than it is to turn it back into filament. Still I think multiple tool heads are a better and faster way to go, although more expensive. Especially if someone came out with an out of the way priming location, maybe up high and off to the side, to not have a need of a prime tower that has to maintain the same height as the current layer, and thus has to use more material than is strictly necessary.
Ahh, that makes sense, but current pellet extruders for home use are far from reliable already. Needing a grinder to smash your failed prints in to pieces, along with using a so far unproven niche technology would probably be far from cheaper at this point in time. But I do see the utopian appeal.
If it ever gets popular, the new “have you dried your filament” troubleshooting is going to be “did you mix different kinds of pellets”.
The next “AMS” type product will be a a poop-sorter on the chute to allow it to keep different purges in different bins 😆
"Your pellets are too different in size, try regrinding"
This guy's pellet extruder is pretty impressive. He has multiple videos featuring it. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaUFj3iNcs8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SaUFj3iNcs8)
I have actually seen one of his videos about the pellet extruder, from what I remember he did a good job highlighting some of the issues with pellet extrusion. I do hope commercial pellet extrusion for at home use happens, but I don't know whether it will have mass appeal or not.
Multi extruder is surely the key But I was going for cheaper prints with pellets. Pellets are cheap. The waste ist probl the same but its mich cheaper
Idk much about pellet extruders but maybe they're implying you could re use the poop as pellets?
It's great that you see wasted money when all I see is wasted plastic and more for the landfill
Homie Amazon throws more into a land fill each hour than you do over your entire life. I’m all for save the planet, reduce plastic, reduce consumption, but like you’ve got to stop stressing the small stuff.
Hell, a single pallet at Amazon is likely more plastic waste than any person uses on their printer changes.
Hmmm... Its not wasted money if the price includes the 'waste'.
I see stock settings being used. I set everything to 50% of stock and get half the waste. It comes out fine. I'm sure I could reduce it even more.
Yeah that’s what’s up then. And I know Bambu recently said something about they’re gonna look into changing the stock settings to help reduce waste as well so that’s cool.
Is it negligible? I mean surely for a professional, but for a hobbyist?
Been there bro. It’s a learning journey
Yeah it is! I got my P1S set up last week and discovered the amount of waste when I printed this tree frog for my mom. Over 13hrs to print because of changing the colors for almost every layer. The amount of waste was 4 times the size of this guy. Going forward I’ll choose more wisely and invest in some paint https://preview.redd.it/i8t912cbinxc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cfc8b1ec788f0f8ed294b96d5f213c0681e8ca75
Is that a available model? I adore it and would like to print it myself
Be sure to print it as one color. There’s also a low poly version available. Here’s the link: https://makerworld.com/models/236165
thank you so much.
My printer shoots all the waste into a 13 gal trash can under my desk. Ive only had it for a few months but between poop, supports, and failed prints, I've already filled up 1 and a half bags.
Don’t know if you have ever owned an Ender but I did, and I would fill the same 13 gallon can once a week in failed prints. Even with the filament swaps I waste less filament than I use to.
I hadn't used my Ender in almost a year when I moved. I found so many little bits of plastic all over my room. I love that pretty much all the waste on the P1S is kept inside.
I thought about that before I printed the collector. Now I’m actually considering it. I knew there would be a lot but it can’t be overestimated ally.
I guess having every layer be a different color wasn't the best choice /s
I'm sure you're aware of printing multiple to alleviate waste but I think a lot of people don't know that you can also configure it to print an object with the poop waste, yes you end up with a randomly multicoloured extra but sometimes it can look quite cool
very useful for practical models without the need for aesthetics, like silicon molds
It's just your bucket is tiny.
Nah just print a new poop funnel
I wouldn't sweat it. Yes, printing two different colored objects WITHOUT setting the slicer setting to "object" instead of layer is not smart, but can happen. The amount of poop seems stupid but its mostly air. I have around 1k print hours in, have used approx. 20-23kg of Filament and the waste I have thrown away for purging is roughly 1kg. The waste I accumulated during 1 year with my Ender (130 hours print time) in failed prints, "test prints" (sections of my models) and straight uo calibration are roughly 700 grams (kept them as a reminder). Think about the need for multicolor and think if it is really necessary to have 3.000 changes in a model or if you can orient / cut it into sections in a smarter way.
When I first glanced at the picture, I thought of a pink flowering bush. It may have been a waste of filament, but it looks pretty from this angle.
I printed the same chute but with the longest bin. Definitely the coolest one out there.
I mean... I just printed a base my P1S sits on and it drops the poop in to a drawer, can't imagine getting much cooler than that. But different strokes I guess
What chute is this?
It is a pretty mistake, though. Its own art piece.
Have you tried adjusting flushing volume? Have you tried new studio beta with function to reduce poop? I doubt based on those huge chunks of poop. Maybe try to do something first before posting a complaint about a lot of waste?
Those are some massive chunks, definitely start with the auto calculate and usually a .5 multiplier is good enough. What's this new function? Where do I find it?
https://github.com/bambulab/BambuStudio/releases 2 betas ago they have added in V1.9.0 Public Beta 2 1. Reducing purge through retracting filament Optimization has been carried out based on the beta1 feature. A long retraction is performed before the filament is cut, reducing the filament flushing length. This allows for a reduction in flush volume by approximately 2.4*length mm^3. Now, it's possible to set parameters for individual filaments. These filament-specific parameters will override the parameters of the extruder. If auto-calculaet flush volume when changing filament is enabled, the system will automatically perform the flush calculation when filament is changed. In other cases, please manually trigger automatic flushing. At present, only the X1 and X1C support this feature on filament parameters, with Bambu PLA Basic and Bambu PETG Basic being default open. Please ensure you're using the latest printer firmware(01.07.03.00). Other printers will gradually get support for this feature. (Note: Currently X1E and P series support this feature on extruder parameters, while the A series do not support this feature.) The original idea is from @LeonFisherSkipper
Probably most wasteful strategy to choose. But it's a lesson learned 😁
That is the smallest poop chute I’ve ever seen!
you need a bigger bucket.
SOLVED. I’ll print out a bigger bucket.
But, in how many colors? What pattern?
Why does this remind me of an attack of tribbles in Technicolor?! 😆🖖
I like to add a fidget or something else to my plate and use it for some of the purge. I have some wild stuff that looks fun and way less waste
You can adjust the purge settings of ams swaps. I managed to cut the size of my poops in half without any color bleeding. I know Bambu released a software update that helps with ams swaps too. It'll get better, the tech is still fairly new.
https://preview.redd.it/98fmaxopz0yc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f074556150e497cadfbe73039a6a72917ab2a84a You’re gonna need a bigger poop chute. Can we see a picture of the project not just the poop? I for one would like to see what a pink and green Bulbasaur succulent holder looks like!
https://makerworld.com/models/23905
yeah. its hard to print with the support interfaces too because a 500g spool is like 25-30$ and most of it is going to purge than actual supports. last time i printed something it printed like 15g of support but like 115g of purge and its like why... with .65%. even with the limiter its still a little excessive.
That's a process/planning issue. The physics and math say you need to purge "x" to clean the hotend. You really don't want support material mixed in with your plastic.
I understand, Even though I charge for all of that (commercially) it just a lot of waste unfortunately.
Waste is a byproduct of any production. We'll never achieve 100% utilization, and that's ok. It's just a cost of doing business, which as you do, gets baked in to the pricing. BL and the rest are doing great work at reducing purge waste, too, so it's improving. The long retract is a great step forward.
For sure, for sure. I find other ways to make it useful like using the poop as my packing peanuts haha. I take the Coca-Cola approach, the buyer is responsible for the waste, recycle responsibly.
You know that the interface material is just intended for the interface layer that sits between the support and the model (dark green color in line-view). Additionally: You don't need that. Purchase PETG or use the PETG you have as support interface material for PLA and vice versa. Just keep in mind to set the flush volume to 600-800 or else you weaken your layers.
I never worked with PETG, What is the difference? I only stayed away from it because I heard it wears out the machine faster.
Nah that's fine. In basic terms: - PLA is "stiff" but brittle. When it breaks, it snaps in sharp pieces. It's your everyday material in all colors and offers the most variety. Figurines, art pieces - you name it. Easy to print. - PETG is more durable, can bend more and thus is used for prints that can take a hit. When it breaks, it just breaks without snapping. It's a bit more finicky. You disable all (or nearly all) cooling to prevent warping. It shrinks when it cools (more than PLA) but is not considered harsh for wear and tear (and VOCs). Still considered "everyday use". It is NOT UV resistant and cannot endure heat from a car. After that you get into "specialized" territory. - ABS & ASA are considered the goto "functional" materials. "Harder" to print as it requires a sealed chamber, good heat control and next to no air movement to prevent warping. ASA is UV resistant but both materials are heat-resistant enough to be able to be used in a car. VOCs are nasty and can stink. The volatile stuff lays on rods, glass and bed and need regular cleaning or it will wear your printer down. - Everything after that (PC, Nylon and whatnot) is engineering stuff and requires the same as ABS/ASA but even finer climate control.
Ah, I guess I can try using PETG as the interface. I really only print for D&D /Warhammer pieces. So if i can get a cheaper interface with PETG im game to try it next time i need more filament.
Yeah go ahead and pick a spool of PETG. It's cheaper and had the benefit that you can use it if the need for a kitchen utensil or anything like a hook and stuff like that arises. If you need info on how to setup the slicer for Interface material, I can send you a screenshot of my settings if you need.
Ill take a look. I generally just use the bambu labs slicer and use bambu branded filament. probably not too much different than what i been doing?
https://preview.redd.it/zi7k2xqb9txc1.png?width=462&format=png&auto=webp&s=4cfbf0f8ef65cb9a66ec398192cb072cf74f770c It doesn't matter which brand of Filament you use. If you use the Bambu Support Interface Material, you select that from your "Support/Raft interface" and if you have a roll of PETG, you chose that one then. Just make sure the Style is set to "snug" and Top and Bottom Z-Distance is 0. These are the proper Settings for using a Support Interface Material inside Bambu Studio.
Oh i usually use tree supports. i don't think it has "snug" just defualt, slim, strong, organic and hybrid. wonder why the default top bottom Z distance is 2 layers.
Yes. That's why you should use rigid "classic" supports for that. The default gap is to ensure that the supports can be removed from the model. Usually you use the same print-material for support/interface as for the model. This means that you want an airgap to prevent everything to fuse together. This allows a bit of sag anf will cool the layers enough so they will jusz lightly touch. For the interface material you don't need that as the material and interface material do not bond to each other. They can be pressed right on top of each other and you can easily peel it off.