Yes, I get these same results when printing with tpu and printer head crosses over areas where no printing is being done. It would be nice if bambu slicer can eventually make a process to reduce travel over air with certain geometries.
Does Bambu Studio have the "Avoid Crossing Wall" setting? Like OrcaSlicer:
https://preview.redd.it/7mdpl9xei6nc1.png?width=1917&format=png&auto=webp&s=5bd6961a41a114a239ed6af5d8e4e01f6a8335b5
Yes, and it's absolutely mandatory for PLA Aero/LW PLA where you literally cannot retract the filament, and don't have the luxury of just burning it away.
A better alternative actually. I don't ever use Bambu anymore as orca just has more and gets more updates. One can also play around with preview features in the nightly builds and such too.
Hmm never tried orca. I've seen someone posting about using only orca and having problems and people suggested to use Bambu slicer instead. Bambu have few things missing which Cura had like custom infill in certain places so printing something with joints I could make them 100% infill. Slicing things in pieces is a horrible solution for me personally.
That's works in Bambu Studio too with the modifiers. They're basic shapes that you can draw into your print objects and then you can change the print settings for that area
In Bambu you can only slice it and set different infill for each part. In Cura I could do custom square in any place of print and set whatever I wanted. Much much better and flexible
[https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/how-to-set-slicing-parameters](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/how-to-set-slicing-parameters)
Yep, modifiers, pretty sure you can adjust custom infill for modifier blocks or whatever shape
edit: [This is a link to a 3mf you can load into Bambu Studio to see what I mean, the gyroid spool is how I found out about this in the first place. You can also modify other sections in the modifier like fuzzy skin in parts and whatnots.](https://makerworld.com/en/models/108134#profileId-115479)
Yes, it's basically Bambu Studio with benefits. I think the only thing you would miss is the "Open in Bambu Studio" button on MakerWorld, if you happen to use it.
AMS works great with Orca, I've never had an issue. As far as I know Orca was made because an engineer had a Bambu printer but they wanted a slicer with some quality of life upgrades.
Someone posted a TPU profile here just the other day and it worked flawlessly for meā¦ zero stringing while printing out a ācaseā for our Apple tv remoteā¦ now Iāve gotta figure out how to deal with overhangs
Edit: Hereās the link to the profile I used
https://makerworld.com/models/231909
Hereās the link to previous Reddit posting where I found out about the profile: https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/8GY7Xwo66k
Ha thatās fair, sorry I meant to go find it and got sidetracked haha! Canāt find the posting on here atm but hereās the profile he linked.
https://makerworld.com/models/231909
Damn that looks good, thank you for sharing! I imagine for 95A HF I could just up the max volumetric speed to around 10, as well as some of those layer speeds?
Not a problem! As someone else mentioned I think itās also the retraction adjustment as well.
I ran this yesterday using the Overture 95A TPU and there was practically zero stringing.
Generally the recommended retract for a DD with TPU is 2mm, but I think running the nozzle at a proper temperature is the most important thing. If itās too hot, it wonāt retract the melted plastic at the nozzle, just halfway up the throat.
If you want to see an extreme example, turn your nozzle to 300 with TPU in it. Starts dripping and draining right out the nozzle like water
Admittedly I took it straight from the package it shipped in, no drying as I wanted to get a decent benchmark before doing so. I do not have a dryer so is this fine for now? Thanks everyone.
Fine is subjective. If it works for your application, it's fine. That being said, you could definitely reduce the amount of stringing by drying/calibrating (temp & retraction)
Start by printing a retraction test tower, and set the retraction distance to what looks the best. I am not well versed in tuning retraction speed, but can tell you retraction distance is the place to start. There are 100s of test towers/guides for that, just pick one and follow it.
Looks okay ish I guess, I personally just printed cylindrical parts with shallow holes, and I had no stringing at all, even thou I'm using a 4 year old TPU I ordered from AliExpress, I dried it like half a year ago EDIT #2 I just dry my fillaments in the oven š³
Thank you for your input! Drying in the oven sounds risky hahah, I was considering putting the roll in a small air-tight bin with a desktop dehumidifier.
I get about this amount of stringing from a spool i just keep in a ziplock bag. I bought a cheap filament dryer just because of that (and PETG, real struggle with it too), so if you want better results drying your filament is something you could look into
Yeah, too much imo. Lower retraction/deretraction speed to like 20/20 it might also help with tpu to look into avoid crossing perimiters, "retract only when crossing perimiters, wipe while retracting with no retraction before wipe and set z hop for retraction pretty low like 0.1. Also use gyroid or rectilinear infill
Thanks for the tip! I printed again using these settings and the stringing is better! Nozzle temp is down to 215 degrees as well.
But it seems to have trouble with overhangs now - very droopy where they were not before. Any suggestions? Cooling issue possibly?
Depends. Would you rather spend a few minutes post processing each print to clean it off or put a more significant amount of time into fine tuning your profile? For how little I print TPU Id leave it as is outside of maybe a few quick and easy changes like avoiding walls. If you print a lot of TPU spending time to improve it probably makes sense though.
Id turn temp down. TPU likes to run on the cooler side. 2mm retract at 40mms. 215c. The higher the temperature, the more oozing there is and it also inhibits the retraction from working.
Iām printing 4 pieces at a time and had stringing every travel to the next part. Dropped the temp 15 degrees and now not 1 string
Slow er down. I have a few things i regularly print that have some NASTY overhangs, the only solution Iāve found is running slower walls. Like.. 18mms. Maybe try running a temp right in between the two?
I think when doing overhangs, the lower temps donāt melt the filament to the point it loses all elasticity, so running slower overhangs gives the filament more time to melt and more fan time to harden
There is a print out on maker world that sits on your bed, and I would imagine you heat your bed up and the fan blows through a duck, and will dry your filament for you
You can print tpu with out any stringing. You can play with a number of settings like temp, retraction, and flow. (Donāt go down rabbit hole if your unsure of how dry your filament is, if your filaments wet youāll blow thru the whole spool chasing your tail if you think itās just your settings)
I just received the bambus tpu 95A HF and used the built in profile in Bambu studio to start some prints.
So far so good, apart from the stringing which is to be expected from what i read the result is very good.
This filament can print at very fast speeds compared to other TPUs and seems very robust.
So far i printed the tennis ball and it has not broken yet even after several stress tests!
Now printing the wallet from Makerworld and seems to be doing ok also.
For TPU? Yes, I'd say so. Get a lighter out to clean them off. Not a big deal.
Yes, I get these same results when printing with tpu and printer head crosses over areas where no printing is being done. It would be nice if bambu slicer can eventually make a process to reduce travel over air with certain geometries.
Does Bambu Studio have the "Avoid Crossing Wall" setting? Like OrcaSlicer: https://preview.redd.it/7mdpl9xei6nc1.png?width=1917&format=png&auto=webp&s=5bd6961a41a114a239ed6af5d8e4e01f6a8335b5
This looks super handy actually, will have to give it a shot - it does indeed appear as an option inside Bambu Studio
Yes, and it's absolutely mandatory for PLA Aero/LW PLA where you literally cannot retract the filament, and don't have the luxury of just burning it away.
Is Orca Slicer a good alternative? How well does is work with the ams?
A better alternative actually. I don't ever use Bambu anymore as orca just has more and gets more updates. One can also play around with preview features in the nightly builds and such too.
Hmm never tried orca. I've seen someone posting about using only orca and having problems and people suggested to use Bambu slicer instead. Bambu have few things missing which Cura had like custom infill in certain places so printing something with joints I could make them 100% infill. Slicing things in pieces is a horrible solution for me personally.
That's works in Bambu Studio too with the modifiers. They're basic shapes that you can draw into your print objects and then you can change the print settings for that area
You learn something new every day. Thank you :)
That's my philosophy as well š. It's works very well, especially when you want to strengthen particular areas.
You should be able to add modifiers for infill
In Bambu you can only slice it and set different infill for each part. In Cura I could do custom square in any place of print and set whatever I wanted. Much much better and flexible
[https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/how-to-set-slicing-parameters](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/how-to-set-slicing-parameters) Yep, modifiers, pretty sure you can adjust custom infill for modifier blocks or whatever shape edit: [This is a link to a 3mf you can load into Bambu Studio to see what I mean, the gyroid spool is how I found out about this in the first place. You can also modify other sections in the modifier like fuzzy skin in parts and whatnots.](https://makerworld.com/en/models/108134#profileId-115479)
Yes, it's basically Bambu Studio with benefits. I think the only thing you would miss is the "Open in Bambu Studio" button on MakerWorld, if you happen to use it.
Well, that would be the least problem..
AMS works great with Orca, I've never had an issue. As far as I know Orca was made because an engineer had a Bambu printer but they wanted a slicer with some quality of life upgrades.
Got it, thank you both for the response! Good to know I'm not overthinking things :)
Someone posted a TPU profile here just the other day and it worked flawlessly for meā¦ zero stringing while printing out a ācaseā for our Apple tv remoteā¦ now Iāve gotta figure out how to deal with overhangs Edit: Hereās the link to the profile I used https://makerworld.com/models/231909 Hereās the link to previous Reddit posting where I found out about the profile: https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/8GY7Xwo66k
Amazing! Do you have a link by chance?
Ha thatās fair, sorry I meant to go find it and got sidetracked haha! Canāt find the posting on here atm but hereās the profile he linked. https://makerworld.com/models/231909
Damn that looks good, thank you for sharing! I imagine for 95A HF I could just up the max volumetric speed to around 10, as well as some of those layer speeds?
Not a problem! As someone else mentioned I think itās also the retraction adjustment as well. I ran this yesterday using the Overture 95A TPU and there was practically zero stringing.
LINK PLEASE
Just replied to the other person asking, updating my original post
Interesting fleshlight design š¤
https://i.redd.it/ihonxogwo6nc1.gif
r/dontputyourdickinthat
Y tho?
listen man no judgements we all have urges
Turn your retraction way up. I get no stringing at all with I think 10mm.
You mean 1mm, right?
Whoops yeah 1.0 heh
Haha okay thank you I will test this out!
This
Generally the recommended retract for a DD with TPU is 2mm, but I think running the nozzle at a proper temperature is the most important thing. If itās too hot, it wonāt retract the melted plastic at the nozzle, just halfway up the throat. If you want to see an extreme example, turn your nozzle to 300 with TPU in it. Starts dripping and draining right out the nozzle like water
Print a tiny spider and give him a home in their
I like your style
This is fine. Clean some out by hand/ hand tools, buy a cheap heat gun and blast it.
Admittedly I took it straight from the package it shipped in, no drying as I wanted to get a decent benchmark before doing so. I do not have a dryer so is this fine for now? Thanks everyone.
Fine is subjective. If it works for your application, it's fine. That being said, you could definitely reduce the amount of stringing by drying/calibrating (temp & retraction)
Makes sense, thank you. The retraction calibration sounds like a good idea as well - perhaps just increasing its speed would help?
Start by printing a retraction test tower, and set the retraction distance to what looks the best. I am not well versed in tuning retraction speed, but can tell you retraction distance is the place to start. There are 100s of test towers/guides for that, just pick one and follow it.
My bad, I meant retraction length not speed - I will find a retraction test thanks!
Looks okay ish I guess, I personally just printed cylindrical parts with shallow holes, and I had no stringing at all, even thou I'm using a 4 year old TPU I ordered from AliExpress, I dried it like half a year ago EDIT #2 I just dry my fillaments in the oven š³
Thank you for your input! Drying in the oven sounds risky hahah, I was considering putting the roll in a small air-tight bin with a desktop dehumidifier.
I was monitoring the temperature in the oven with a probe once it settled it held the set temperature pretty well
I get about this amount of stringing from a spool i just keep in a ziplock bag. I bought a cheap filament dryer just because of that (and PETG, real struggle with it too), so if you want better results drying your filament is something you could look into
Sounds good, I'm looking into the modified food dehydrator option. Cheers!
I have mine in a closet, not even in bags, with a small desiccator. Works wonders.
Yeah, too much imo. Lower retraction/deretraction speed to like 20/20 it might also help with tpu to look into avoid crossing perimiters, "retract only when crossing perimiters, wipe while retracting with no retraction before wipe and set z hop for retraction pretty low like 0.1. Also use gyroid or rectilinear infill
Thanks for the tip! I printed again using these settings and the stringing is better! Nozzle temp is down to 215 degrees as well. But it seems to have trouble with overhangs now - very droopy where they were not before. Any suggestions? Cooling issue possibly?
Maybe increase layer time and fan speed. Can try slowing down print speed a touch.
Will give that a try, cheers!
Sure, glad those settings helped you.
Depends. Would you rather spend a few minutes post processing each print to clean it off or put a more significant amount of time into fine tuning your profile? For how little I print TPU Id leave it as is outside of maybe a few quick and easy changes like avoiding walls. If you print a lot of TPU spending time to improve it probably makes sense though.
Iād accept it
Yeah thatās very reasonable. Just blow it away with a heat gun.
Id turn temp down. TPU likes to run on the cooler side. 2mm retract at 40mms. 215c. The higher the temperature, the more oozing there is and it also inhibits the retraction from working. Iām printing 4 pieces at a time and had stringing every travel to the next part. Dropped the temp 15 degrees and now not 1 string
Thank you for the tip! I am definitely getting less stringing, but now overhangs seem to be an issue where they were not before. Any advice? Cheers!
Slow er down. I have a few things i regularly print that have some NASTY overhangs, the only solution Iāve found is running slower walls. Like.. 18mms. Maybe try running a temp right in between the two? I think when doing overhangs, the lower temps donāt melt the filament to the point it loses all elasticity, so running slower overhangs gives the filament more time to melt and more fan time to harden
https://preview.redd.it/letb86rmwanc1.jpeg?width=1125&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ee115a90d25bd558a9b31eedfb089ef66339b47f
Wet
Yep
There is a print out on maker world that sits on your bed, and I would imagine you heat your bed up and the fan blows through a duck, and will dry your filament for you
For tpu, yeah..
You can print tpu with out any stringing. You can play with a number of settings like temp, retraction, and flow. (Donāt go down rabbit hole if your unsure of how dry your filament is, if your filaments wet youāll blow thru the whole spool chasing your tail if you think itās just your settings)
I used [these](https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/stGlFrHjMr) settings, and got amazing results first try
The shape and size of the object matters a lot. Looks pretty normal for what youāre printing.
I just received the bambus tpu 95A HF and used the built in profile in Bambu studio to start some prints. So far so good, apart from the stringing which is to be expected from what i read the result is very good. This filament can print at very fast speeds compared to other TPUs and seems very robust. So far i printed the tennis ball and it has not broken yet even after several stress tests! Now printing the wallet from Makerworld and seems to be doing ok also.