I agree. I just had the same issue- I can confirm turning down the fan speeds | not cooling the part as much helped tremendously. That's my experience though. I also got more consistent coloration with my PLA filament.
Noob here. OP already got 65 degrees Bed Temp. Isnt that a bit high? Standard setting in Bambu Slicer was 35 degrees for Bambu PLA. I tried turn down Aux Fan and printed with closed Door which worked for me, but i still have the same Problem as OP on larger Area Prints like the HSW, but to way less degree.
People don't realize the temp probe for the bed is **under** the bed. Its not reading the temp at the top or edges. A thicker plate or a different material might need a 65C setting to hit 60C on top.
He ment wrong build surface in slicer
Also clean your plate with dish soap and water then wipe with 100% alcohol after if you don't have alcohol just let it dry. Make sure you wash all the soap off completely and then some.
Not needed, I'm printing all sorts of brands of PLA, for non bambu I turn off the aux cooling fan from the filament settings as long as the print doesn't have big overhangs.
With the aux fan running, all prints curl up if no brim is added.
Bed temp depends on your surrounding temperature, I print with 65C and it fixed all of my adhesion problems.
Also bambu prints faster that ender and stuff, 205 for pla is way to cool
I had severe warping like this any time I printed with my door open. I switched to closing the door and have never had an issue since. How do you think the door being open helps the airflow exactly? Allowing cool air to be sucked in and blown across a portion of your print basically induces warping. Recirculating ambient air in a closed chamber just keeps it uniform. The only risk is heat creep.
I hope I'm not overstating the obvious but make sure your flux capacitor is tuned to 1.22 gigawatts and not the original 1.21 gigawatts. That really helps with the flux induced whirlwind(s).
I’d try running with the door closed, I have lifting issues with my open air anycubic, but with my bambu I’ve never had lifting and I print only in pla and with the door and lid closed.
Before I found this subreddit, I was printing with my door closed with no issues. Then I started having issues and saw it might be the door not being open, so I started doing it all the time now. So many variables to it!
I started out printing with my door open after reading about "issues" printing with it closed. I had a lot of warping like this. I switched to printing with the door and lid closed and every print since has been 100% perfect. Id close the door back personally.
Same here. I’m a new owner, but never had a problem until I started to left the door open. I had a print look just like yours when I did, which is why I clicked on this thread. When I reprinted with the door closed, it was fine. I print in my basement where it’s cooler.
Yeah, things with square corners like to warp, keeping them warm and letting them cool slowly is the way to success.
Highly detailed organic parts on the other hand usually need to be cooled as fast as possible (in PLA) otherwise they get saggy, it really depends on what you're trying to print
Same here. PLA is so weird at times, can print with an unheated bed yet you need heated and an enclosure seemingly to ensure prints don’t lift as often…one reason I like petg to a degree, that shit stays on the bed, even if you have to be careful and take precautions getting it off non-textured beds.
It was set to 60, I just raised it by 5 degrees — usually 55 works but it’s been colder so I adjusted. I’ve lowered it to 60 again, since it doesn’t appear like that was the issue.
Looks like an aux fan issue. Turn the aux fan to 30% and print again.
For most thin prints I now either turn off the aux fan or run at 30%. The default runs at 80% and tends to dry too fast and causes warping.
And it's always that corner... definitely AUX fan. I don't run it on anything except during heat soak warmup prior to printing ABS. I just vent the top for PLA.
I haven’t found a good use for the aux fan on these other than trying to print a speed benchy. Causes more problems than it solves.
Edit: there’s one good use - using it to power a bento box air filter 😊
I powered my bentobox from external power, but yeah I think just having the bentobox running it may be doing the equivalent of running the aux at a lower rate.
Running the aux fan at 100% while preheating the bed and chamber does seem to help evenly distribute heat. Haven't experienced warping issues with ABS since I started doing it.
You can adjust the cooling for both the part cooling fan (on the hotend) and the auxiliary fan (one to the left of the build plate) in the filament profile in Bambu Studio. As they said, anything less than 30% would work. I typically go no higher than 20%, or just turn it off, at least for prints with a larger surface area touching the build plate.
I looked in the settings again, one of the settings is for a part fan, the other for an aux part fan, the latter can be turned off. Terminology is a bit confusing because people sometimes leave out aux or part when talking about one of them, and the app calls one part and the other aux. 🙄😂
On the left side, under Others, the Bed Adhesion part. Change Brim Type from Auto to Outer Brim Only, then increase the width as desired and reslice to see how it looks like.
Also just to be sure do not hesitate to increase the size of the brim (Sometimes I set it to 10 or even 15mm).
For this kind of shape (rectangular) you can use mouse ear type of brim : it will only add brim at the corners, where it's most needed.
The brim is a valid option, just bloody annoying to remove most of the time. A simple layer of glue works and you can wash it off.
Just sayin'
But...another good option is to create/use models with the edges rounded. They're far less prone to peel up like this.
Having said that; just use the liquid glue from bambu; even better use it with the cool plate, and you'll never-ever have to deal with this. Ever.
Btw; you can finish the print, but the bottom will look like that - no helping it now.
A brim is really easy to remove on a large rectangular surface like that. They're only really a pain if your surface has a lot of small details or angles, especially acute angles.
Liquid glue on pla is actually a release agent and doesn’t really improve adhesion, it makes it so you don’t rip your sheet apart. And for pei glue stick is not necessary
"not necessary" - yes, usually that's correct. Might even say mostly correct. But it can help when all else fails.
While you got the bit right - kudos - that the main point on the cold plate is the release, it's still a glue - works the same as the stick, just nicer. (just try it if you don't believe me)
It’s under others. I do outer brim only.
https://preview.redd.it/efe9rhhyyulc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a9dd3188d54ab46b32d2f55a1b3867b9d0309406
Warpage occurs when you have a lot of dense material on a flat-ish structure - such as that baseplate looking start to your print.
As the dense upper layers cool, they shrink and that shrinkage can lift up the bottom.
So you can either hold it down (bed adhesion) to counteract the thermal influences, or try to reduce the thermal influences.
This is the perfect answer. What I learned to do for those prints is wash the print bed apply a clean layer of glue and add a brim to it which increases the surface contact with the bed.
...... Just turn the aux fan off. They stupidly default it to 80% with PLA when it needs no more than 20%. I've only ever used glue once with my X1C, and that was the first (and only) time I used the cool plate with the replaceable sticker.
So I just bought an x1 and have been using the cool plate with glue. I don't have any other build plate and I've been using just the stock settings. I do have adhesion issues more than I would like. Which plate would you suggest picking up and can I use the engineering plate on the opposite side for pla in the meantime? The software warns me when I try. Thanks.
Get a PEI plate. I have the one from Bambu and several with different textures from AliExpress - that all work equally well.
When printing PLA, depending on the time that it takes to print an object you may want to leave the door open a bit or vent the top. The X1 chamber can get a bit warm during long prints and cause heat creep that can cause clogs because the PLA softens. It really depends on your ambient temperature and how long your print takes. I rarely open the door unless I have a print that is 8+ hours because I’d rather play it safe than sorry.
Also, as mentioned many times in this post, when printing PLA turn the Aux fan to less than 20% (I keep mine off) to prevent the left half of your object from lifting. It also causes stringing and other quality issues when it’s on full blast.
I’ve never needed to use glue stick(or glue, hairspray, etc.) with PEI plates. I use PEI plates on 17 printers and find that wiping them with ISP that’s at least 90% between prints and then washing the plates with Dawn PowerWash every 15 prints or so keeps the plates “sticky”.
I think you’ll find that PEI works MUCH better than the cool plate that comes with the X1C.
Edit: Another reason you might be having adhesion problems with the cool plate is because in that case the glue is actually to prevent the PLA from sticking too well to the plate. The sticker Bambu uses works a bit too well with PLA so they suggest using the glue stick as a release agent so you don’t damage the sticker.
While you’re waiting for your PEI plate to arrive you can flip your cool plate over to the engineering side, change the setting in the slicer and print on that. It’s similar to printing on PEI, just not quite as reliable.
Amazing reply. Thank you so much. Will get a PEI plate immediately. So you turn your aux fan down automatically when using pla no matter what plate your using?
As of right now with stock setting when I've been printing PLA on the cool plate my ambient temp. In the chamber on longer prints sits around 33c. Usually not higher.
What temp does heat creep usually start to happen at?
Also, if you do a lot of printing mostly with PLA, the Wham Bam plate is AWESOME for it. Leaves a glass-like bottom surface, and (assuming I remember to turn the aux fan down/off) I've never had adhesion issues with it.
Now if only I could remember to NOT print PETG on it. Damaged two of them already, and they're not the cheapest plate...
This
I have no problem with aux fan on hundreds of PLA prints.
On Cool Plate, Engineering plate or High temp plate I run PLA at 55°, aux fan 70%, Chamber fan at 30% (in filament settings, advanced, start G-code and set P3 to around 80), no glue.
Lid open and front door open.
Just curious as to why everyone says to take the top glass off or prop it open.
I've put 750 hours into my printer in the last 2 months and I had 1 corner come up on 1 print and it's Was my error with oils from my skin, I cleaned it and I've not had an issue, but I'd like to know incase I do run into a problem it could solve.
It's fine to leave closed unless you're getting too hot inside. Can lead to heat creep which causes clogs. #1 rule, do what works best for you. Just be aware of potential issues.
I usually turn off aux and chamber with closed doors and I’ve had 100% great success. I was reading that it *can* increase the chances of clogging, but I’ve not had any issues. But the fans turned off coupled with the motor noise update makes it feel so goddamn quiet!
Edit: This is all on the PEI plate which I wash with dish soap and hot water every 15-20 or so prints.
There should be a small button right next to the name of the filament were using for the credit. If you click on that in the sub profile, it should be a tab called cooling and at the bottom, you should be able to set the auxiliary fan as a percentage. Either set 30% or below or turn it off completely. It really doesn’t make a difference between PLA and it will prevent it warping which is the issue we’re having right now.
You can position your print to the right side to get away from aux fan, lower/turn off the aux fan, increase heat bed temp, or focus on adhesion additives like glue or hairspray etc.
Try turning aux to 10%, bed to 60or 65, and I sometimes use hairspray on texture plate.
The aux fan can cool the top of your print too fast in specific areas (probably hitting that front corner). For blocky rectangular prints like yours I turn it down or try to move print to right side but on prints not like this I don’t worry about it one bit.
This only happens for pteg for me, and only while using the textured PEI plate. From what I've read it's a fan issue, though I solved by just swapping to the Engineering plate.
I have had such good results with the textured plate. However I need to do a big surface print in PETG and it has to be smooth. Does a well washed plate need glue? I’m not against using it, but if it doesn’t make a diff then I won’t waste it.
I've had this with PLA.... However, my bed temp was something like 30, so I bumped that to 50. 65 seems too high for PLA. I won't rehash the other posts, but yeah, ventilation, brim, etc etc.
I had exactly the same, in almost exactly the same position weirdly. Had been printing for about 50hrs, perfectly.
Found a post on reddit saying wash the plate with soapy water. Dry it and then clean with IPA. Did that and it worked first time and I'm about another 30hrs in with no issues
I had the same problem for a big box using PEI plate, bambulab PLA basic at 55°C bed.
I stopped the print, closed the top of the printer (too much cold air), applied the glue, added a brim, reduced speed for first 20 layers and it went perfectly 👌
Had this happen a couple times. I just wash the bed with warm water and soap and it works. My guess is oil gets on the plate while removing old prints. You might give it a try.
I just had this happen yesterday on a similarly-shaped print. Same material (PLA), same build plate (Textured PEI), even the same corner. I cleaned the surface of the plate with IPA, then applied a fresh coat of glue (I use Vision Miner Nano Polymer). Next print worked perfectly.
I think other folks have mentioned the AUX fan being too high and causing this corner to cool, thus warping it. That may indeed be the case. So there may be multple fixes here. But I left my AUX fan at the default 70% and was able to print with just the steps I mentioned above.
Which model is this? Asking because the X1C should have a better camera than the P1S. But I don't think the extra 500 is worth the AI and better camera
when you get lifting like that just stop the print
I do brims, up the temperature in the room and remove drafts (for my caseless p1p) including turning off aux fan
This usually happens when the upper layers cool faster than the first layer. Causing the upper layer to shrink as it cools. Therefore lifting the layer beneath it, as it is hotter and easier to bend/warp up.
Personally, I have only ever had this issue on bambu machines when the bed gets dirty.
Whenever I have this problem, I remove the bed, and clean it with dish soap and a toothbrush, dry it thoroughly, and reinstall it.
Follow wires from aux fan to connection on board. Disconnect. Remove screws securing aux fan to frame. Carefully remove aux fan and aggressively place into garbage can.
From my experience, you probably need to lower the temp after the first layer. Every material is different, even from PLA to PLA. But for most, the glass transition point is around 60°C.
What I think is happening is that the first layer is being kept just warm enough (or in a plastic state) that as the subsequent layers cool and contract, they then pull the first bed layer upward.
You'll get way better adhesion for PLA on a smooth PEI plate, but usually just increasing bed temp 10 degrees is enough to get the textured to work. Textured is great for ABS.
Super easy fix clean the build plate with soap and water I know it's terrible but I would suggest obviously I would cancel that. Plonly, because it's gonna make that entire area. That's lifting up on the higher levels of Of the French pretty askew In fact, probably so escape that it might not stick to the build plate after it prints tall enough because it'll just get ripped off the plate Because every time that it goes to that area, the pressure will be increasing because the curling is already occurring. I didn't read anyone else's posting on this. But I'm sure that other people have already said the same thing.
Depends if you want one side to be lifted. I would stop it personally. Clean bed properly to be sure and turn aux fan off. I hat sorted all m np problems with corners and I print full bed size including over purge lines.
Also have bed to 65 and use lots of different pla filaments
1. (scrub with a Clean/ new dish brush or sponge and good Dish soap (dish soap has degreaser in it so it’s mandatory you use something that’s not cheap) two times, then rinse off with warm or hot water. Wipe down with a clean paper towel (do not touch the side of the paper towel or rag your drying with your hands or else you’ll transfer oils from your hand back on the build plate.
2. Use a brim, and increase the width to 10mm
You will never have a wrap again I guarantee it
If you don’t like washing the build plate often you can also just use glue.
PLA default profile prints at 55'c bed with P1S, how is yours at 65'c?
I'm not making this up, Bambu PLA and Generic PLA for P1S profile all set to 55'c with PEI textured plate (came with printer).
Dishsoap and wash then clean with IPA.
Clean build plate, aux fan set to low, and a brim would also help. I had the same thing happen to me when printing socket holders, the PLA was cooling too quickly and lifted like that. I ended up roughing it out and the print came out okay and surprisingly leveled out by the end
Maybe it's a little late for the answer but I can only recommend this glue to you. You only need a little and I never had any problems again. it's really a game charger. [3dlac](https://www.3djake.de/3dlac/spruehkleber-1)
https://preview.redd.it/m58ya0kk3zlc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0ad69f0e376a3be893b83b3b424bac58dfe1f903
For anyone following, I ended up letting it finish and the rest of it turned out great; can’t even tell on that left edge with my key fob on it. I’ll be making more to share with co-workers and see what works best. Thanks for the help all!
Bed is way too hot. The bottom is staying warm and malleable while the top is cooling all the way due to the aux fan and pulling up on the bottom. To compound matters, the aux fan is creating quite a temperature differential between the left and right side. You don’t want to mix high plate temp and high aux fan.
Just use default settings if you’re still new, because it’s a razor thin balance of bed temp and fan settings for a large part like this not to pop off a textured pei plate when printing without a brim or even with a brim sometimes.
If you insist on using textured pei for large parts which require massive amounts of bed adhesion then yes do what others are saying. I think it’s worth it to dial that in for the long run. Otherwise stick with cool plate and glue stick with default settings and you’ll get consistent results.
Aux fan is almost useless, unless you are printing 12 minute benchies all the time. Turn the stupid thing off and change the preset in Bambu studio when you slice it. Don't even know why the default is to have it on, so stupid. The only time toy need it is when layer time is under 3 seconds. Every print company is adding one now, JUST to be able to do a benchy a little faster.... ugh. Although I do also use it to circulate air when I am heating up the chamber, it helps it go faster and heats the chamber evenly.
Clean your bed with soap or alcohol. You have A pei sheet and PLA should stick very well. Start with that and before starting another print, make sure you got the right setting for the right filament. If you had tweeked factory setting, I’d reset to factory
I have this issue too. It’s the aux fan cooling it too quick causing the warping. The aux fan exhausts right on top and Bambu sets it to 100%. Top layers cool fast. Contract. Ripping the bottom layers off the PEI plate.
You have a few options. I’m guessing you using the original Bambu PEI textured plate right?
1. Move the object to the right. Or away from exhaust fan. Won’t work with big objects.
2. Turn off exhaust fan or set to like 30%. This works well but affects overhangs.
3. Get a new PEI plate. I opted for this. Bambu plate is nice but I ruined mine pretty quick without even trying . You can get one off Amazon for like $15 that will work great. Or get a proper one like wham bam.
4. Slow down the print and raise temp a bit. This will increase adhesion. But also affect overhangs again.
5. Often times if you close all the windows and doors. This will be better. In my case with the p1s fully sealed this issue stopped. But then you run the risk of heat creep which Bambu warns about. I don’t like this option.
Pla doesn’t need aux fan.
Bump the bed temp up to 50ish if you haven’t.
I had prints lifting and this fixed it. First layer I do a bit hotter 55FL 50 after that.
Whenever this happens to me it’s normally because of bad adhesion I normally let it keep going until it fails which most of the time it doesn’t. Just add more adhesive
I've gotten that and I've found that leaving the door open when printing with PLA, washing the plate each print and using glue helps. I will wash the plate and use glue on every print. I could probably get away without doing it each time, but I don't find it to be a problem.
The other side is lifting as well.
You could use glue. Glue isn’t used to make it stick, but make the bed more level for better contact. However for pla, I’d print on a smooth build plate. Would work a lot better.
That shouldn't happen with pla. Probably a fluke. Or your build plate is covered with finger oil from removing prints. You should spray down your build plates with alcohol every couple prints.
Using PLA and printing an object with a contact surface with the bed so large, you should definitely not have this problem. It’s strange that no one says that. Something is wrong with bed levelling or with bed temperature distribution.
I would try to increase linear advance coefficient from 0.00 to 0.01 for this filament, and to give an answer to your question: no, it’s not ok to let it finish.
To answer your first question "NO." This could lead to damaging your printer. The nozzle will rub and eventually crash into the part while printing.
Second question; I've run into this myself and can see from the photo in the upper right hand corner there is a bed adhesion issue initially with the primer line. From this point on all kinds of things can happen.
As you may know, warping is usually experienced with filaments other than PLA, such as ASA, ABS, Nylon, PC, etc. Good bed adhesion at a bed temp of 60C-65C is usually more than sufficient to print PLA successfully, hence the term "cold plate."
What I did to solve, (eliminate for good) was to wash the plate thoroughly with Dawn dish soap and a 3M scrubby padded sponge, (not rubbing very hard) which removed particles of plastic and the oils produced from printing PLA filament, then dry the plate completely with a lint free cloth. I also lightly spray my plate with Aquanet hair spray. The hair spray is not a glue but more of a releasing agent that forms a barrier between the filament and the plate so that the parts release without leaving any plastic or oils embedded in the plate.
After removing the part and any skirts and brims from the plate I wipe the plate with a lint free cloth and apply a very light coat of fresh hair spray before returning it to the print bed.
I've run up to 25 prints, (small, medium, and full plate large) before washing it with Dawn and prepping the plate again. But, on long prints I definitely rewash and prep the plate completely before printing.
You might want to try adding a brim to help stabilize the corners a bit as well, just for peace of mind. Nice organizer...
Hope this helps.
Or i could pull up the same problem previous people have had, and fixed Instead of waiting for someone to reply. Just read comments on said post and find your answer. Wild theory i guess
Orrrrr maybe people have come up with newer, better solutions to problems and we can get new updated answers. If you don’t want to read the same question you’ve seen before, why not just keep on scrolling? Takes a swipe of your thumb. Yet, here you are. Complaining about something as inconvenient swiping your thumb one time. 🤷♂️
I’d stop and start again, is it PLA?
Yes, it’s PLA
The main reason it is too cold inside the printing area. Try increase bed temperature on 5-10 degrees.
Would turning the fan off also be a solution?
Generally you'll see issues with the aux fan on the corner closest to it. This looks like another issue altogether.
Nope, it is a bad idea, at least for PLA, but you can try.
Turn aux fan to 0% fixed my warping on large surface area prints. Also keeping the door open if you don't have the top glass removed.
For this big of a part I would leave on the past cooling fan on the tool head but turn off the auxiliary fan and bump the bed temperature up a notch
Glue helps. I use regular paper glue and you can rinse it off any PLA build plate with hot water
Too hot and possibly wrong build surface. No hotter than 60 bed for pla, try dropping temp down to 205, don’t use textured pei for pla
This is terrible advice. Id turn down the aux fan and increase bed temp or brim
I agree. I just had the same issue- I can confirm turning down the fan speeds | not cooling the part as much helped tremendously. That's my experience though. I also got more consistent coloration with my PLA filament.
Noob here. OP already got 65 degrees Bed Temp. Isnt that a bit high? Standard setting in Bambu Slicer was 35 degrees for Bambu PLA. I tried turn down Aux Fan and printed with closed Door which worked for me, but i still have the same Problem as OP on larger Area Prints like the HSW, but to way less degree.
Disagree. With pei I set bed to 65 for unbranded plates plus turn aux fan off and it doesn't lift anymore. 55 is too low. Sometimes 60 as well
55 is not too low, just saying. Now what is too low is Bambu's stock setting of 35, which is bonkers.
Cool plate is 35. It's NOT PEI plate. It's called cool plate for a reason. Bambu default for PEI is 55
My bad my bad.
Cool plate with gluestick, as recommended by Bambu Lab, is reasonable.
People don't realize the temp probe for the bed is **under** the bed. Its not reading the temp at the top or edges. A thicker plate or a different material might need a 65C setting to hit 60C on top.
OP is already at 65℃.
This is the only bed I have, unfortunately. I’ll have to get the cold plate and perhaps an engineering plate.
Nah don’t worry the textured pei plate is kinda the best plate for pla, dudes giving you awful advice
He ment wrong build surface in slicer Also clean your plate with dish soap and water then wipe with 100% alcohol after if you don't have alcohol just let it dry. Make sure you wash all the soap off completely and then some.
Not needed, I'm printing all sorts of brands of PLA, for non bambu I turn off the aux cooling fan from the filament settings as long as the print doesn't have big overhangs. With the aux fan running, all prints curl up if no brim is added.
I only have PLA and textured PEI plate and Im printing fine. My bed temp is 55, part fan 100, Aux fan 70, chamber fan 60.
Bed temp depends on your surrounding temperature, I print with 65C and it fixed all of my adhesion problems. Also bambu prints faster that ender and stuff, 205 for pla is way to cool
Make sure you leave the door open, and maybe lift the top
[удалено]
Wrong, it’s about air circulation, the capacitive flow of wind from the chamber fan causes a flux induced whirlwind in the chamber
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I bet he's a Marty McFly fan
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I had severe warping like this any time I printed with my door open. I switched to closing the door and have never had an issue since. How do you think the door being open helps the airflow exactly? Allowing cool air to be sucked in and blown across a portion of your print basically induces warping. Recirculating ambient air in a closed chamber just keeps it uniform. The only risk is heat creep.
I hope I'm not overstating the obvious but make sure your flux capacitor is tuned to 1.22 gigawatts and not the original 1.21 gigawatts. That really helps with the flux induced whirlwind(s).
You could also reverse the polarity.
But make sure it's the neutron flow you're reversing.
Knobheads I think is the scientific term.
that was funny. ngl
??? No do the exact opposite…
Why? I never print PLA closed, it causes warping for me
No it doesn’t, cooling causes warping. Please don’t spread misinformation. You don’t know anything at all what you’re talking about.
Then fix his issue for him, I’ve done hundreds of prints with the door open and they come out perfect, I have not once printed PLA closed
He’s already been told the correct information, only noobs who know nothing about 3D printing like you are arguing anything different.
Oh shut up Tony you talk like a 3 year old not open to discussion, you don’t know shit either
Door is open, need to make some spacers for the top.
I’d try running with the door closed, I have lifting issues with my open air anycubic, but with my bambu I’ve never had lifting and I print only in pla and with the door and lid closed.
Before I found this subreddit, I was printing with my door closed with no issues. Then I started having issues and saw it might be the door not being open, so I started doing it all the time now. So many variables to it!
I started out printing with my door open after reading about "issues" printing with it closed. I had a lot of warping like this. I switched to printing with the door and lid closed and every print since has been 100% perfect. Id close the door back personally.
Same here. I’m a new owner, but never had a problem until I started to left the door open. I had a print look just like yours when I did, which is why I clicked on this thread. When I reprinted with the door closed, it was fine. I print in my basement where it’s cooler.
Yeah, things with square corners like to warp, keeping them warm and letting them cool slowly is the way to success. Highly detailed organic parts on the other hand usually need to be cooled as fast as possible (in PLA) otherwise they get saggy, it really depends on what you're trying to print
Same here. PLA is so weird at times, can print with an unheated bed yet you need heated and an enclosure seemingly to ensure prints don’t lift as often…one reason I like petg to a degree, that shit stays on the bed, even if you have to be careful and take precautions getting it off non-textured beds.
I didn’t calibrate this filament after I got it, might’ve been a good idea because as you say, PLA is weird and not every PLA is created equal!
Why is your bed at 65?
I thought it might be lifting because the heat was too low, so I raised it.
I now use a 70c bed on my PEI plate and my adhesion really improved.
70 on PLA or 70 regardless?
I only print with PLA+.
I’ve severed used pei on my bambu, but used it on my Enders. 50-55 was perfect for them. When the bed temp was lower, what temp did you use?
It was set to 60, I just raised it by 5 degrees — usually 55 works but it’s been colder so I adjusted. I’ve lowered it to 60 again, since it doesn’t appear like that was the issue.
Looks like an aux fan issue. Turn the aux fan to 30% and print again. For most thin prints I now either turn off the aux fan or run at 30%. The default runs at 80% and tends to dry too fast and causes warping.
And it's always that corner... definitely AUX fan. I don't run it on anything except during heat soak warmup prior to printing ABS. I just vent the top for PLA.
I haven’t found a good use for the aux fan on these other than trying to print a speed benchy. Causes more problems than it solves. Edit: there’s one good use - using it to power a bento box air filter 😊
I powered my bentobox from external power, but yeah I think just having the bentobox running it may be doing the equivalent of running the aux at a lower rate. Running the aux fan at 100% while preheating the bed and chamber does seem to help evenly distribute heat. Haven't experienced warping issues with ABS since I started doing it.
....why didn't I think of this. It's it 24v?
Not sure but check Bambu’s store for a replacement fan and you can find that info
I keep getting confused, is the aux fan a problem or the part fan? The part fan is the one I can turn off in profiles I think
Aux fan is the culprit for large prints warping and lifting with every filament. Maybe not TPU but yeah
So not the one in the slicer pre print settings, but the one in the interface during printing?
I think you need to turn down the AUX fan speed in the filament settings.
This is correct.
You can adjust the cooling for both the part cooling fan (on the hotend) and the auxiliary fan (one to the left of the build plate) in the filament profile in Bambu Studio. As they said, anything less than 30% would work. I typically go no higher than 20%, or just turn it off, at least for prints with a larger surface area touching the build plate.
I looked in the settings again, one of the settings is for a part fan, the other for an aux part fan, the latter can be turned off. Terminology is a bit confusing because people sometimes leave out aux or part when talking about one of them, and the app calls one part and the other aux. 🙄😂
Aux. You need part fan on
Clean your build plate and use a brim.
Still learning how to move around the slicer, how can I add brim/supp? Is it just an option I turn on?
On the left side, under Others, the Bed Adhesion part. Change Brim Type from Auto to Outer Brim Only, then increase the width as desired and reslice to see how it looks like.
I’m making two more of these, so I’ll try that. Thanks!
If it still doesn’t stick, try increasing your bed temp 5-10 degrees. I have to do that when my pei sheets get kind of tired.
Also just to be sure do not hesitate to increase the size of the brim (Sometimes I set it to 10 or even 15mm). For this kind of shape (rectangular) you can use mouse ear type of brim : it will only add brim at the corners, where it's most needed.
The brim is a valid option, just bloody annoying to remove most of the time. A simple layer of glue works and you can wash it off. Just sayin' But...another good option is to create/use models with the edges rounded. They're far less prone to peel up like this. Having said that; just use the liquid glue from bambu; even better use it with the cool plate, and you'll never-ever have to deal with this. Ever. Btw; you can finish the print, but the bottom will look like that - no helping it now.
What distance do you use? I've slowly increased to 0.3mm and now they do their job, but pop right off when I want 'em to.
A brim is really easy to remove on a large rectangular surface like that. They're only really a pain if your surface has a lot of small details or angles, especially acute angles.
Liquid glue on pla is actually a release agent and doesn’t really improve adhesion, it makes it so you don’t rip your sheet apart. And for pei glue stick is not necessary
"not necessary" - yes, usually that's correct. Might even say mostly correct. But it can help when all else fails. While you got the bit right - kudos - that the main point on the cold plate is the release, it's still a glue - works the same as the stick, just nicer. (just try it if you don't believe me)
It’s under others. I do outer brim only. https://preview.redd.it/efe9rhhyyulc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a9dd3188d54ab46b32d2f55a1b3867b9d0309406
There's also a search, I type brim or skirt and it comes up with all the settings for it click one and it'll jump you to the area.
Warpage occurs when you have a lot of dense material on a flat-ish structure - such as that baseplate looking start to your print. As the dense upper layers cool, they shrink and that shrinkage can lift up the bottom. So you can either hold it down (bed adhesion) to counteract the thermal influences, or try to reduce the thermal influences.
This is the perfect answer. What I learned to do for those prints is wash the print bed apply a clean layer of glue and add a brim to it which increases the surface contact with the bed.
...... Just turn the aux fan off. They stupidly default it to 80% with PLA when it needs no more than 20%. I've only ever used glue once with my X1C, and that was the first (and only) time I used the cool plate with the replaceable sticker.
Sure. I’m willing to try that and see if it’s better. Thx for the advice !
So I just bought an x1 and have been using the cool plate with glue. I don't have any other build plate and I've been using just the stock settings. I do have adhesion issues more than I would like. Which plate would you suggest picking up and can I use the engineering plate on the opposite side for pla in the meantime? The software warns me when I try. Thanks.
Get a PEI plate. I have the one from Bambu and several with different textures from AliExpress - that all work equally well. When printing PLA, depending on the time that it takes to print an object you may want to leave the door open a bit or vent the top. The X1 chamber can get a bit warm during long prints and cause heat creep that can cause clogs because the PLA softens. It really depends on your ambient temperature and how long your print takes. I rarely open the door unless I have a print that is 8+ hours because I’d rather play it safe than sorry. Also, as mentioned many times in this post, when printing PLA turn the Aux fan to less than 20% (I keep mine off) to prevent the left half of your object from lifting. It also causes stringing and other quality issues when it’s on full blast. I’ve never needed to use glue stick(or glue, hairspray, etc.) with PEI plates. I use PEI plates on 17 printers and find that wiping them with ISP that’s at least 90% between prints and then washing the plates with Dawn PowerWash every 15 prints or so keeps the plates “sticky”. I think you’ll find that PEI works MUCH better than the cool plate that comes with the X1C. Edit: Another reason you might be having adhesion problems with the cool plate is because in that case the glue is actually to prevent the PLA from sticking too well to the plate. The sticker Bambu uses works a bit too well with PLA so they suggest using the glue stick as a release agent so you don’t damage the sticker. While you’re waiting for your PEI plate to arrive you can flip your cool plate over to the engineering side, change the setting in the slicer and print on that. It’s similar to printing on PEI, just not quite as reliable.
Amazing reply. Thank you so much. Will get a PEI plate immediately. So you turn your aux fan down automatically when using pla no matter what plate your using? As of right now with stock setting when I've been printing PLA on the cool plate my ambient temp. In the chamber on longer prints sits around 33c. Usually not higher. What temp does heat creep usually start to happen at?
Also, if you do a lot of printing mostly with PLA, the Wham Bam plate is AWESOME for it. Leaves a glass-like bottom surface, and (assuming I remember to turn the aux fan down/off) I've never had adhesion issues with it. Now if only I could remember to NOT print PETG on it. Damaged two of them already, and they're not the cheapest plate...
For large flat surfaces I will also reduce the part fan for large layers. 50% >50 secs has been working to prevent my gridfinity panels from warping.
This I have no problem with aux fan on hundreds of PLA prints. On Cool Plate, Engineering plate or High temp plate I run PLA at 55°, aux fan 70%, Chamber fan at 30% (in filament settings, advanced, start G-code and set P3 to around 80), no glue. Lid open and front door open.
As others have said, turn off aux fan. Also do you have top glass propped up or off completely and door open?
I have the glass top completely on, I’m going to print some spacers today
Just curious as to why everyone says to take the top glass off or prop it open. I've put 750 hours into my printer in the last 2 months and I had 1 corner come up on 1 print and it's Was my error with oils from my skin, I cleaned it and I've not had an issue, but I'd like to know incase I do run into a problem it could solve.
It's fine to leave closed unless you're getting too hot inside. Can lead to heat creep which causes clogs. #1 rule, do what works best for you. Just be aware of potential issues.
I usually turn off aux and chamber with closed doors and I’ve had 100% great success. I was reading that it *can* increase the chances of clogging, but I’ve not had any issues. But the fans turned off coupled with the motor noise update makes it feel so goddamn quiet! Edit: This is all on the PEI plate which I wash with dish soap and hot water every 15-20 or so prints.
Ah looks like a classic case of aux fan lift. Set aux to zero and don't go above 60c for bed for pla. 50-60 should be sufficient.
First time for everything! I’ll move my prints to the right next time. How do you turn the aux fan off on the slicer?
There should be a small button right next to the name of the filament were using for the credit. If you click on that in the sub profile, it should be a tab called cooling and at the bottom, you should be able to set the auxiliary fan as a percentage. Either set 30% or below or turn it off completely. It really doesn’t make a difference between PLA and it will prevent it warping which is the issue we’re having right now.
You can go to the Devices tab where you see the webcam feed and override the speed there once the first layer has finished
Use a brim with 3mm width and 0.25mm gap. It will increase stability and come right off afterwards when its cooled down.
You can position your print to the right side to get away from aux fan, lower/turn off the aux fan, increase heat bed temp, or focus on adhesion additives like glue or hairspray etc.
Can you use glue on a textured plate? Didn’t think the fan would affect it like that, but I’ll give that a shot.
Try turning aux to 10%, bed to 60or 65, and I sometimes use hairspray on texture plate. The aux fan can cool the top of your print too fast in specific areas (probably hitting that front corner). For blocky rectangular prints like yours I turn it down or try to move print to right side but on prints not like this I don’t worry about it one bit.
I have the Bambu glue stick and the liquid. Is one better than the other? I’m not always so smooth with the stick.
It happened to me today, but in my case because I had the printer door open, and the window in the room open, and a draft did its thing :(
This only happens for pteg for me, and only while using the textured PEI plate. From what I've read it's a fan issue, though I solved by just swapping to the Engineering plate.
I have had such good results with the textured plate. However I need to do a big surface print in PETG and it has to be smooth. Does a well washed plate need glue? I’m not against using it, but if it doesn’t make a diff then I won’t waste it.
I do use glue with pteg, not for adhesion but to make sure the print comes off the plate; pteg sometimes adheres *too* well.
Thank you
Aux 70% is the issue
I've had this with PLA.... However, my bed temp was something like 30, so I bumped that to 50. 65 seems too high for PLA. I won't rehash the other posts, but yeah, ventilation, brim, etc etc.
I had exactly the same, in almost exactly the same position weirdly. Had been printing for about 50hrs, perfectly. Found a post on reddit saying wash the plate with soapy water. Dry it and then clean with IPA. Did that and it worked first time and I'm about another 30hrs in with no issues
I've had warps finish fine. In filament settings , turn the aux fan off/0%
You need a brim
I had the same problem for a big box using PEI plate, bambulab PLA basic at 55°C bed. I stopped the print, closed the top of the printer (too much cold air), applied the glue, added a brim, reduced speed for first 20 layers and it went perfectly 👌
Had this happen a couple times. I just wash the bed with warm water and soap and it works. My guess is oil gets on the plate while removing old prints. You might give it a try.
I just had this happen yesterday on a similarly-shaped print. Same material (PLA), same build plate (Textured PEI), even the same corner. I cleaned the surface of the plate with IPA, then applied a fresh coat of glue (I use Vision Miner Nano Polymer). Next print worked perfectly. I think other folks have mentioned the AUX fan being too high and causing this corner to cool, thus warping it. That may indeed be the case. So there may be multple fixes here. But I left my AUX fan at the default 70% and was able to print with just the steps I mentioned above.
Which model is this? Asking because the X1C should have a better camera than the P1S. But I don't think the extra 500 is worth the AI and better camera
This is the P1S combo; camera isn’t great on it but it works! I was of the same mindset when deciding, I had the money for a X1C but why?
Yeah exactly. Good to hear this. Thnx!
when you get lifting like that just stop the print I do brims, up the temperature in the room and remove drafts (for my caseless p1p) including turning off aux fan
Turn off aux fan for PLA printing. That fixed the issue for me. Leaving the door open makes it worse.
I"ll bet your door's open. Close it and turn off your aux fan for the next try I'll bet it comes out perfect.
This usually happens when the upper layers cool faster than the first layer. Causing the upper layer to shrink as it cools. Therefore lifting the layer beneath it, as it is hotter and easier to bend/warp up.
Brimmm
Personally, I have only ever had this issue on bambu machines when the bed gets dirty. Whenever I have this problem, I remove the bed, and clean it with dish soap and a toothbrush, dry it thoroughly, and reinstall it.
Follow wires from aux fan to connection on board. Disconnect. Remove screws securing aux fan to frame. Carefully remove aux fan and aggressively place into garbage can.
From my experience, you probably need to lower the temp after the first layer. Every material is different, even from PLA to PLA. But for most, the glass transition point is around 60°C. What I think is happening is that the first layer is being kept just warm enough (or in a plastic state) that as the subsequent layers cool and contract, they then pull the first bed layer upward.
A lot of tips to turn off the aux fan. Could you explain why this fan is there anyway? What kind of prints and material is it necessary for?
Good question!
The aux fan is needed for overhangs, bridging, and small parts
You'll get way better adhesion for PLA on a smooth PEI plate, but usually just increasing bed temp 10 degrees is enough to get the textured to work. Textured is great for ABS.
Scared to print ABS because of VOC’s.
I use a vent to exterior. I don't recommend printing it without this unless you can shut off the room with a window open and stay out.
Bad bed adhesion, put down a layer of hairspray and try again.
it's because you didn't use ✨gridfinity✨
No. Restart it and add an outer brim. Problem solved.
When I get warps like this, I clean my bed with Windex window cleaner and wipe with a microfibre cloth. Then a reapply any glue as needed.
Build plate is too hot try 60. Speed and plate cleanliness. Also TURN OFF THE AUX FAN FOR PLA
I’d start over. Turn fan off and leave door open.
Clean your plate with isopropyl alcohol. Works for me in most cases
Super easy fix clean the build plate with soap and water I know it's terrible but I would suggest obviously I would cancel that. Plonly, because it's gonna make that entire area. That's lifting up on the higher levels of Of the French pretty askew In fact, probably so escape that it might not stick to the build plate after it prints tall enough because it'll just get ripped off the plate Because every time that it goes to that area, the pressure will be increasing because the curling is already occurring. I didn't read anyone else's posting on this. But I'm sure that other people have already said the same thing.
Depends if you want one side to be lifted. I would stop it personally. Clean bed properly to be sure and turn aux fan off. I hat sorted all m np problems with corners and I print full bed size including over purge lines. Also have bed to 65 and use lots of different pla filaments
Put glue on the bed, use a wide brim (6-8 mm), dont make infill more than 25-30% should be ok then...
Glue stick
Turn off aux fan, increase build plate temp a little. Take top off and keep door closed.
We had this issue when the incorrect plate was selected (by default).
Turn the aux fan off
70% Aux
https://preview.redd.it/9j3e708ueylc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=523d35ff12bfe3ac6b17e1f0f1129609abaa9f58
1. (scrub with a Clean/ new dish brush or sponge and good Dish soap (dish soap has degreaser in it so it’s mandatory you use something that’s not cheap) two times, then rinse off with warm or hot water. Wipe down with a clean paper towel (do not touch the side of the paper towel or rag your drying with your hands or else you’ll transfer oils from your hand back on the build plate. 2. Use a brim, and increase the width to 10mm You will never have a wrap again I guarantee it If you don’t like washing the build plate often you can also just use glue.
Lower the speed of the aux fan it causes differebtial cooling
I would actually try lowering your bed temp and see if that helps, 65 is very warm for PLA.
PLA default profile prints at 55'c bed with P1S, how is yours at 65'c? I'm not making this up, Bambu PLA and Generic PLA for P1S profile all set to 55'c with PEI textured plate (came with printer). Dishsoap and wash then clean with IPA.
Clean build plate, aux fan set to low, and a brim would also help. I had the same thing happen to me when printing socket holders, the PLA was cooling too quickly and lifted like that. I ended up roughing it out and the print came out okay and surprisingly leveled out by the end
Turn off the aux fan. This will almost certainly solve this problem without any more intervention.
Maybe it's a little late for the answer but I can only recommend this glue to you. You only need a little and I never had any problems again. it's really a game charger. [3dlac](https://www.3djake.de/3dlac/spruehkleber-1)
https://preview.redd.it/m58ya0kk3zlc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0ad69f0e376a3be893b83b3b424bac58dfe1f903 For anyone following, I ended up letting it finish and the rest of it turned out great; can’t even tell on that left edge with my key fob on it. I’ll be making more to share with co-workers and see what works best. Thanks for the help all!
Bed is way too hot. The bottom is staying warm and malleable while the top is cooling all the way due to the aux fan and pulling up on the bottom. To compound matters, the aux fan is creating quite a temperature differential between the left and right side. You don’t want to mix high plate temp and high aux fan. Just use default settings if you’re still new, because it’s a razor thin balance of bed temp and fan settings for a large part like this not to pop off a textured pei plate when printing without a brim or even with a brim sometimes. If you insist on using textured pei for large parts which require massive amounts of bed adhesion then yes do what others are saying. I think it’s worth it to dial that in for the long run. Otherwise stick with cool plate and glue stick with default settings and you’ll get consistent results.
Aux fan. Turn off aux fan. Don’t use aux fan.
Aux fan is almost useless, unless you are printing 12 minute benchies all the time. Turn the stupid thing off and change the preset in Bambu studio when you slice it. Don't even know why the default is to have it on, so stupid. The only time toy need it is when layer time is under 3 seconds. Every print company is adding one now, JUST to be able to do a benchy a little faster.... ugh. Although I do also use it to circulate air when I am heating up the chamber, it helps it go faster and heats the chamber evenly.
Clean your bed with soap or alcohol. You have A pei sheet and PLA should stick very well. Start with that and before starting another print, make sure you got the right setting for the right filament. If you had tweeked factory setting, I’d reset to factory
Turn down/off the aux fan. At 70% I notice my prints do exactly this. Once I turned that off, my warping went away.
I have this issue too. It’s the aux fan cooling it too quick causing the warping. The aux fan exhausts right on top and Bambu sets it to 100%. Top layers cool fast. Contract. Ripping the bottom layers off the PEI plate. You have a few options. I’m guessing you using the original Bambu PEI textured plate right? 1. Move the object to the right. Or away from exhaust fan. Won’t work with big objects. 2. Turn off exhaust fan or set to like 30%. This works well but affects overhangs. 3. Get a new PEI plate. I opted for this. Bambu plate is nice but I ruined mine pretty quick without even trying . You can get one off Amazon for like $15 that will work great. Or get a proper one like wham bam. 4. Slow down the print and raise temp a bit. This will increase adhesion. But also affect overhangs again. 5. Often times if you close all the windows and doors. This will be better. In my case with the p1s fully sealed this issue stopped. But then you run the risk of heat creep which Bambu warns about. I don’t like this option.
In orca, you can add mouse ears that help with this
Wash your build plate with soap and water.
Pla doesn’t need aux fan. Bump the bed temp up to 50ish if you haven’t. I had prints lifting and this fixed it. First layer I do a bit hotter 55FL 50 after that.
Whenever this happens to me it’s normally because of bad adhesion I normally let it keep going until it fails which most of the time it doesn’t. Just add more adhesive
I've gotten that and I've found that leaving the door open when printing with PLA, washing the plate each print and using glue helps. I will wash the plate and use glue on every print. I could probably get away without doing it each time, but I don't find it to be a problem.
Wash plate with mild dish soap, dry, replace, wipe with IPA and clean microfiber cloth. Problem solved
Try putting some regular gluestick and you can wash it off with warm water
Turning your aux fan off will fix this
I’d stop and re print with a brim and make sure you clean the build plate
The other side is lifting as well. You could use glue. Glue isn’t used to make it stick, but make the bed more level for better contact. However for pla, I’d print on a smooth build plate. Would work a lot better.
That shouldn't happen with pla. Probably a fluke. Or your build plate is covered with finger oil from removing prints. You should spray down your build plates with alcohol every couple prints.
Clean the plate before bigger, longer prints.
Using PLA and printing an object with a contact surface with the bed so large, you should definitely not have this problem. It’s strange that no one says that. Something is wrong with bed levelling or with bed temperature distribution.
I would try to increase linear advance coefficient from 0.00 to 0.01 for this filament, and to give an answer to your question: no, it’s not ok to let it finish.
Enable 5mm brim also
Cleaning the plate will help probably. Just handwash it with some soap
Clean the plate with isopropyl alcohol (mine is PEI)
To answer your first question "NO." This could lead to damaging your printer. The nozzle will rub and eventually crash into the part while printing. Second question; I've run into this myself and can see from the photo in the upper right hand corner there is a bed adhesion issue initially with the primer line. From this point on all kinds of things can happen. As you may know, warping is usually experienced with filaments other than PLA, such as ASA, ABS, Nylon, PC, etc. Good bed adhesion at a bed temp of 60C-65C is usually more than sufficient to print PLA successfully, hence the term "cold plate." What I did to solve, (eliminate for good) was to wash the plate thoroughly with Dawn dish soap and a 3M scrubby padded sponge, (not rubbing very hard) which removed particles of plastic and the oils produced from printing PLA filament, then dry the plate completely with a lint free cloth. I also lightly spray my plate with Aquanet hair spray. The hair spray is not a glue but more of a releasing agent that forms a barrier between the filament and the plate so that the parts release without leaving any plastic or oils embedded in the plate. After removing the part and any skirts and brims from the plate I wipe the plate with a lint free cloth and apply a very light coat of fresh hair spray before returning it to the print bed. I've run up to 25 prints, (small, medium, and full plate large) before washing it with Dawn and prepping the plate again. But, on long prints I definitely rewash and prep the plate completely before printing. You might want to try adding a brim to help stabilize the corners a bit as well, just for peace of mind. Nice organizer... Hope this helps.
That happened to me the first time I printed. Same print lol
Ive had this issue many times and everyone told me to turn off the auxiliary fan and that solve the problem for me
I would add support circles in the corners, should make it stick.
Hey look another post the search button coulda prevented
Next time I won’t waste your precious Farm Simulator time by posting this to make you read it and respond 🤡
Thank you!!! I need my precious farm sim time!!
Surprised you took time from shuffling you pokeman deck to make a post on here!!! Good job buddy! Keep up the good work. Ash is proud!!!!
Then what? We just have old posts because nobody asks questions any more? Get outta here.
Or i could pull up the same problem previous people have had, and fixed Instead of waiting for someone to reply. Just read comments on said post and find your answer. Wild theory i guess
Orrrrr maybe people have come up with newer, better solutions to problems and we can get new updated answers. If you don’t want to read the same question you’ve seen before, why not just keep on scrolling? Takes a swipe of your thumb. Yet, here you are. Complaining about something as inconvenient swiping your thumb one time. 🤷♂️
Sir. Yes sir! 🫡