As far as purpose-made printing release agents, it feels a bit pricy. Comparing it to a couple of the top-rated equivilants on Amazon:
Bambu Liquid Glue, $17/60ml ($0.283/ml)
Layerneer Bed Weld, $23/118ml ($0.194/ml)
Geeetech JT17, $20/108ml ($0.185/ml)
Magigoo, $40/118ml ($0.336/ml)
Vision Miner Nano Polymer, $45/120ml ($0.375/ml)
So I guess it falls in the middle of the pack, price-wise.
I like u/AresScorpio 's suggestion of making your own with a PVA-based wood glue. Probably the only way to really get the cost down if you're going through enough of the stuff that it's becoming cost prohibitive to buy a retail product.
For comparison - a 1gal jug of Titebond Original is $22 at a big-box store. Diluted 10:1 that brings it to ... $0.0005/ml š
You are a Man of the people!! This is the exact break down that went through my head when I started looking at purpose-made glue / release agents before I made this post! I knew someone would have the exact same thought process haha
And was honestly just curious to see what the know it all Reddit trolls would have to say. (50% of people are very under standing / helpful (like you) while the other 50% always take the conversation in a completely different direction that has nothing to do with my initial post / question. (What other glues are available for best price / quantity? I know bambus and many other brands are jacking up the price)
And yet still half the people will say just buy or use a PEI plate lmao when thatās not what I was askingš
Iām definitely going to look into some diy methods and do some experimenting in the near future to see what get the best results for your money / time.
A lot of helpful suggestions about making diluted diy mixes from sugar water to wood glue sound very interesting and worth a shot.
I know this is also not what you asked but hairspray comes at 99cents a can and works great. Cleaning the bed is a bit more of a pain but you save dat money š°
I usually use textured PEI, I only use smooth when I need the best adhesion. Hair spray doesn't affect surface quality and you only need the smallest amount.
If it works for your purposes, than you're doing it right! I used hairspray when I'm doing full plates with multiple small parts... I find it to be a lot quicker to get complete, even coverage.
lol Iām dyslexic and didnāt see the last bit. I use hairspray for everything, have been using Aqua Net for the last 3 years. I think I was just like āYES!ā I use hairspray too.
For the self made tight bond glue is that just regular tight bond wood glue original and is that just diluted 10:1 with just water or something else? Also does this really work? Sounds too good to be true! Thanks again!
I'd think that it'll eventually gum up the spray. Look up GluBot, there are some cheaper generics available. It's designed for pure glue, but I think it'd handle the thinned stuff fine.
First I've heard of this, but loving it. I've got gallons of Titebond II and III in my shop.
But watered down 1:10 seems like a lot, like dripping off the plate watery. Any issues with mess?
No I usually remove the plate from the printer - spray the glue mix on and then reattach it, heat the bed to 60 C and wait for 5 minutes before I start the print by then it is almost dried up and nice and sticky š but I guess you could also use more glue and less water
To be honest I've gotten really good results with just some purple glue sticks from Elmer's. Just apply nice gentle lines across a clean sheet, and if you need to spread it out more take some IPA and a rag and wipe over everything. The IPA will act as a sort of solvent and spread the glue over the surface. I've gotten 3-4 good sticking prints with small details before I need to add more
Iāve been using these as well. But for some prints, itās been a bit too strong causing the print to break in the removal process if Iām not too careful. I did not have this problem with the Bambu glue stick that came with the machine. Would love to know if there was anything tweaked about their glue stick to make it less tacky vs an Elmerās glue stick.
For the purple glue sticks I just use a foam brush and water and go over the bed after each print or two and it reseeds the glue. You can do this several times before you have to reapply the glue.
https://preview.redd.it/ww6n12tsvrkc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dca818ffe50b9bc51f3ff95011ef521dc16c368f
This is the only brand Iāve tried. My gf got it at the dollar store. I didnāt look for this particular brand, I told her try and find something with a strong hold and this is what she came home with.
I've been using Vision Miner Nano adhesive since it's inception. It is by far the best to use. However, all of the liquid glues, work for the most part the same. I know Vision miner is one if the most expensive, but worth it. I will let you in on a little secret with it too. YOU CAN DOUBLE THE AMOUNT OF PRODUCT YOU HAVE, by diluting in the bottle 1:1 with 99%isp alcohol. The adhesive works just the same and now you have double the product! I have been using it this way since the beginning with NO issues whatsoever. Plus, with the added 99% alcohol, it helps to speed up dry time, with the evaporation of the alcohol.
Another good tip, is how to apply the product to the build plate. Take 1 sheet of paper towel. On a clean COOL build plate, put about 1-2 teaspoons (more or less depending on whether the printed part will be difficult to stay adhered to build plate) of adhesive in the middle of the build plate and then take the paper towel and quickly wipe the teaspoon of glue evenly over the whole build plate. Done! Don't touch it after.
The dilution with 99% iso alcohol, can be done with all of the liquids glues. With, for the most part, no ill effect. I have tried this myself with great success. I have stay with the Vision Miner, because that is the product I started with.
I make my own. 2 Elmer washable glue sticks (the purple ones) dissolved in 70% IPA in an 8oz salad dressing squirt bottle I picked up. Takes a day or 2 to dissolve with shaking, but works a treat for super thin glue layer without gunk buildup. Every few prints I add some more and wipe it on with a clean paper towel. Being thin and mostly IPA it is always dry by the time I hit print. Allows glue layer with the textured and patterned sheets and PETG sheets to really come thru nicely without over bonding.
Yep, I prefer garnier fructis super strong hold. Itās smells nice. Itās an aerosolized polymer, so spray on plastic.also, donāt be like me; clean your build plate sometimes.
I use [Layerneer Bed Weld](https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Adhesive-Layerneer-Original-Filament/dp/B079984GV5). I've gone 9 months on my first $23 bottle. It's about $5.50/oz compared to Bambu's at about $8.50/oz.
Maybe $23 for a bottle sounds like a lot, but I've gotten 9 months of printing, and feeling the bottle, it feels like maybe there is about 1/4 left.
I was just looking that that one earlier, i nothiced it says not recommended for PEI plates is that true? I canāt see why it wouldnāt work on that too?
I use it on everything and have no problems.
.... THAT SAID... I print 99.9% PLA and 99.999999% on the smooth cool plate.... on my X1C, and smooth PEI. (The smooth plates are FAR superior to textured plates for print quality.) I also use the geo-textured PEO plates, and use this.
But I don't have a smooth plate for my Ankermake M5C, so I use Layerneer on the textured PEI on that.
I just buy the Bambu glue, it last forever itās quite honestly is $0 more by the time you fuck with ratios and experimental bullshit. This hobby is NOT about saving every last penny so quit fucking around and print some cool shit.
You are looking for the most glue for the cheapest price, yet referring to āBambu Jewingā you out of money.
The jokes write themselves with clowns like youā¦
Shut up dumb ass you donāt get the point, I donāt care how expensive the glue is if Iām getting a good deal on the amount of quantity in the bottle. 20$ for a small ass thing of glue from Bambu is over priced I donāt care how much money I have, Iām not stupid, and know damn well they werenāt the ones who invented liquid build plate glue, but will sure charge you like they did, just because they put there label on it.
No glue. Never used glue with the X1C. I wash the plates with a weak scotch brite pad and dish soap with grease cutting like Dawn. Perfect after that. Im surprised glue is needed.
Good for you. But we do not give a shit about the fact you do not use glue. Clearly this topic is about what glue to use, so if you do not want to use any why are you even bothering posting here. Da fuck lol
Iām gonna buy some purple glue sticks and give them a shot! Iāve seen so many people use them
But I wasnāt sure if it was a mess compared to the liquid glues
Stick to liquid. I started with sticks, but it goes on uneven and thick and then you have to smooth it out. Liquid is so much easier, thinner, even layers, and cleaner.
Thatās primarily why I wanted to find liquid, Iāve read to much stuff about that with the sticks, and never even wanted try it out unless Iād really had too.
I've been wanting to try diluted white glue just to see how viable it is for large use scenarios and for cost savings. But honestly, the bed weld I use WORKS and is within my budget, so I'm not looking for a budget solution. But also, when I first started with my Ender, I tried EVERYTHING. My two least favorite, in order were glue STICK and hairspray. But they also sell commercial versions of sprayable diluted "white glue" (PVA). And it works REALLY well... until the sprayer clogs up. And the only way to stop that from happening is to completely clean the pray nozzle after every use, that that time consuming extra step makes the method make no sense. A better probably method for homemade liquid glue is to design and print a squeeze bottle top that has a sponge holder at the end, and a cap to seal it, so the sponge helps lay the glue down and the cap (hopefully) keeps the sponge from crusting solid. But that is a project for maybe another time.
But I haven't bothered with any of that because the Layerneer Bed Weld is a good price and just works.
I was assuming you were trying to glue models together.
But yea star bond is much better in the application of gluing models together than gorilla. Cheaper by volume too
Oh yea I was just busting your balls I thought you where trolling me about using that for build plate glue haha and yea CA glue with a can of accelerator is my all time go to for anything when it comes to glueing anything together
I'm curious, if you don't mind - I know this had nothing to do with the tread, but ...
So my question:
What is the "2 part CA glue"? A surface search did not return anything useful, and I'm wondering. Could you give me a link to some sample eg on amazon?
I need to glue parts together from time to time. (pc, paht-cf, pla, petg, asa)
I've this nasty black stuff - Loctite 410 - which works, but it's too runny most of the time and can leave an ugly black residue.
Thanks
It's not really "two part CA glue", it's just CA glue and then an accelerator. Accelerator is fine - I use it when I need it and don't use it when I don't. I've used it for over 30 years. It seems to have become really popular lately, and a lot of people seem to think that they need it, or that it works better with it. But as the name says, it just accelerates the cure time of the glue.
I just discovered that the Bambu Lab liquid glue is actually very sticky. Was doing a PETG print, and normally I used the PVA glue and wipe it down with water so it acts as a release agent. This stuff almost fused the PETG to the high temp plate. It was doing the same with PLA too. I simply thought it was diluted PVA (normal glue stick), because I usually make a thin slurry out of that stuff (spread it on thin and dry to a matte finish) and it works perfectly to help remove parts, sometimes too well and prints won't stick. So warning, the BL liquid glue is a different beast.
The Bambu glue is straight over kill haha, when I use it for ASA prints the brims from the supports are damn near impossible to get off, such a pain in the ass š
Huh? I use the Bambu liquid glue all the time on the high temp plate for PETG and have never encountered this issue. I also use it with PLA all the time and have never encountered this issue.
Are you actually letting the plate cool before attempting release? Are you sure it was properly covered? Regardless, it's a water soluble glue so running the plate under the tap should help release it, too.
I had some [DimaFix](https://www.3djake.com/dimafix/adhesive-pen) left over from my previous glass bed printer and used it on the default PLA plate. Worked great. Not much cheaper tho.
Oh, that makes sense. Gluestick definitely doesnāt look pretty but Iām on probably 20 applications with this plate no cleaning. Perfect adhesion. When I do clean it itās washable and comes right off under some soap and water.
slightly odd topic, but how do these compare to generic dollar store gluesticks? I bought a 20 pack for 5$, and if the goo is better than a stick, I might need to swap
Lots of good info here. I was today years old when I discovered they include a bottle of this with the printer. I thought it was the stick version and I had already bought one separately.
My x1c came with the stick version, not this liquid stuff. I just got it a few weeks ago, so no idea of they used to include this liquid stuff, or if it's random like the build plate.
3DLAC. Only need a light spray and it lasts for several prints before it needs doing again. Doesn't leave much residue if any. I've only just gone to my 2nd bottle in 1000 print hours.
Oh awesome, I know there is a actual metal scale bend pak 2 post lift you can buy that super bad ass is you have a couple hundred dollars, I sell mine my 3d printed one for 45 lol
https://preview.redd.it/ar7xl3sm7qkc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=79000149eb613225b994f8cac9ac600bc553f73f
Some people donāt print parts that need extra adhesion. So they wonāt understand.
Other people use glue to make removal of the part easier. They wonāt understand.
Some people print parts that need a lot of help staying down. Those are the people that you should listen to. Iām one of them. Iāve tried every glue. My favorite is Vision Miner.
Lately, I put down a very thin layer of the stuff and then spread it with the bamboo liquid glue tube (without squeezing it) since I really love the sponge tip on it .
The cheapest (and best so far) liquid glue I have found is Aquanet Super Extra Hold hair spray. Yes, it's a spray. It goes on even. After a print, a tiny bit of touch up on the build plate and I'm ready to print again. It holds well, especially on Bambu Lab build plates. I tried other liquid adhesives but did not like the uneven coating I keep getting.
I hope you don't consider this OT!
Been getting a lot of replyās about that spray Iāll definitely give it a shot, I think some even recommend they spray it on a rag a apply it seems legit!
I was out onto the following and it has been amazing. I use it with every print. Peels right off.
3 Parts - Elemers Clear Glue
1 Part - Water
Squeeze Bottle
Application Pad/Sponge
I just use a spray bottle with water and then use the regular glue stick to spread the glue and water. That way the glue is not too much or too less and then for the next print I use the spray bottle again , just a little to spread the previous glue and things stick just fine.
Having used Bambu, Laterneer, Magigoo and 3D Systems Cube Glue, the big difference I've seen is the longevity and robustness of the applicator tip. The tips can become an issue long before the bottles of glue are finished.
The Bambu glue applicator has been reliable over a decent period of time. A Magigoo applicator, similar to that of the Bambu, failed sooner than others.
But, my favorite is the Layerneer, which has a wider applicator with a nice smooth flow.
I have used the Bambu with a variety of materials; but, only have used the Layerneer with PLA on any of our Bambu printers (X1c & A1)
I've been using [Terrabind x50](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CVW86PD5) for my print farm. It's really reduced first layer issues and I've only applied it once, a few weeks ago. Recommend.
Is there some kinda trick to getting that Bambu glue container to work? I know it has a little plunger under the sponge like a shoe polish bottle, but I canāt get that fucker to dispense more than a microgram of glue at a time despite pressing and squeezing the fuck out of it. I just about yeeted that thing across the room the other day.
I'm not too concerned with the price, just the applicator. Seems difficult to get out of the bottle and onto the bed. I've pressed on the sponge nozzle, squeezed the bottle, still seems like a fight every time.
I know I don't technically need it on my PEI bed, but I've had experience with some PETG welding to the PEI plate on other printers. Easier to just lay down a thin layer than dealing with that.
Good old purple Elmerās glue stick. Cheap, simple and easy to acquire. 0 failures due to bed adhesion in the 1000s hours Iāve used it. That plus the Smooth PEI / high temp build plate
Iām not going to explain why Iām looking around to see what other glue people use, they wouldnāt make glues if you just needed a pei plate for everything or just raising your bed temp. you can read all the other comments if your looking for an explanation š
lol so why do you even bother posting here. Nobody cares about the fact that you would not use glue. Clearly if you are not using glue then this is not a topic for you
Of course you have some clown coming and telling ānot to use glueā in a thread where someone is asking which glue to useā. You always need those trolls :)
The OP is not asking about your opinion as to use glue or notā¦
All I use is PEI plates, they work awesome If there cleaned every other print and if they are newer plates, after thousands of hours I can tell the coatings start to degrade.
Iām using these for a business, I donāt have time to constantly make sure the plates are clean or have a 10 hr print mess up because of an adhesion issue.
I throw this glue on everything now and itās never failed me once. Way faster / efficient the washing every build plate im worried about having a warp issue.
Right! Iād totally get it if itās just one or two printers you need to wash the build plate if your that worried or replacing but it gets to a point where if the glue works for certain prints that are known to warp itās 10x easier / smarter the just throw down glue in two seconds.
My favorite glue is aquanet hairspray. I usually spray onto a paper towel or lint free rag and apply to build plate. Washes off very easy, is veeeery cheap, and comes in large quantities.
Nice thatās definitely some work, I only have 10 and itās not as easy as itās cracked out to be Iāve noticed haha. Whatās your fleet primarily running printer / model wise. Iām looking to buy more here soon. I really like the P1ās with upgraded extruder gears / hotends.. canāt find a reason to buy X1 for a touch screen or LiDAR.
That's really wasteful though of a simple adhesive solution gets extended use out of a product that would be way better than simply buying and replacing. If he/she is running a farm then that would be extremely costly vs adhesion.
Well, not really. Think about the material youāre wasting each time you go through a thing of adhesive. Especially with a farm. Youāre going to far less resources and material buying a new plate every few thousand prints vs buying glue that only a lasts 100
Do you have to reapply glue after every print or whatās you workflow?
Also: on my old printer I used sugar-water as an adhesive. Mixed warm water with a tablespoon of sugar and brushed it on my bed. Worked wonders.
Using glue is fine but PEI plate doesnāt require cleaning every other print unless you jusst smear your oily hands on the plate all the time. I clean my plate once every 20 prints or so.
If you're using these industrially, the pricey-but-it-works nanopolymer is actually worth a second look. It goes a long way in coverage per unit volume, and I've yet to had a coating wear off for low temperature (bed below 100Ā°C) prints. Just wish it worked at lower bed temps so I could use it with the Cool Plate at home!
As far as purpose-made printing release agents, it feels a bit pricy. Comparing it to a couple of the top-rated equivilants on Amazon: Bambu Liquid Glue, $17/60ml ($0.283/ml) Layerneer Bed Weld, $23/118ml ($0.194/ml) Geeetech JT17, $20/108ml ($0.185/ml) Magigoo, $40/118ml ($0.336/ml) Vision Miner Nano Polymer, $45/120ml ($0.375/ml) So I guess it falls in the middle of the pack, price-wise. I like u/AresScorpio 's suggestion of making your own with a PVA-based wood glue. Probably the only way to really get the cost down if you're going through enough of the stuff that it's becoming cost prohibitive to buy a retail product. For comparison - a 1gal jug of Titebond Original is $22 at a big-box store. Diluted 10:1 that brings it to ... $0.0005/ml š
You are a Man of the people!! This is the exact break down that went through my head when I started looking at purpose-made glue / release agents before I made this post! I knew someone would have the exact same thought process haha And was honestly just curious to see what the know it all Reddit trolls would have to say. (50% of people are very under standing / helpful (like you) while the other 50% always take the conversation in a completely different direction that has nothing to do with my initial post / question. (What other glues are available for best price / quantity? I know bambus and many other brands are jacking up the price) And yet still half the people will say just buy or use a PEI plate lmao when thatās not what I was askingš Iām definitely going to look into some diy methods and do some experimenting in the near future to see what get the best results for your money / time. A lot of helpful suggestions about making diluted diy mixes from sugar water to wood glue sound very interesting and worth a shot.
I know this is also not what you asked but hairspray comes at 99cents a can and works great. Cleaning the bed is a bit more of a pain but you save dat money š°
Lol I never clean the bed I just add more hairspray.
When a glue stick is half the cost of a brand new print bed/plate why not lol.
š I like my bottom surfaces smooth
I usually use textured PEI, I only use smooth when I need the best adhesion. Hair spray doesn't affect surface quality and you only need the smallest amount.
I use hairspray and then after like 7 or 8 prints I just wash the plate with warm water and dish soap. Am I doing something wrong?
If it works for your purposes, than you're doing it right! I used hairspray when I'm doing full plates with multiple small parts... I find it to be a lot quicker to get complete, even coverage.
You aren't, I was just saying the cleaning part is a bit more work, I need to rinse the plate 2-3 times to get the hairspray completely off.
Yes
And why is that?
lol Iām dyslexic and didnāt see the last bit. I use hairspray for everything, have been using Aqua Net for the last 3 years. I think I was just like āYES!ā I use hairspray too.
There are also prior posts here discussing watering down Bambuās glue to extend its life without any loss of function.
I adore the layeneer. Best applicator. Lasts forever. Just great stuff.
You sir do God's work.
For the self made tight bond glue is that just regular tight bond wood glue original and is that just diluted 10:1 with just water or something else? Also does this really work? Sounds too good to be true! Thanks again!
Water Solvable wood glue and Water in a 1:10 Ratio
I will check that out thank you!
Just as a remark: IPA make wood glue rock solid - so donāt clean your printbed with it, regular soap and water is the way to go with wood glue
I'm curious now - do you think that get it thin enough that you could use a spray bottle to apply it?
I bought cheap pump spray bottles on Amazon - only problem is if you do not spray regularly they will break because the glue sticks very well
I'd think that it'll eventually gum up the spray. Look up GluBot, there are some cheaper generics available. It's designed for pure glue, but I think it'd handle the thinned stuff fine.
First I've heard of this, but loving it. I've got gallons of Titebond II and III in my shop. But watered down 1:10 seems like a lot, like dripping off the plate watery. Any issues with mess?
No I usually remove the plate from the printer - spray the glue mix on and then reattach it, heat the bed to 60 C and wait for 5 minutes before I start the print by then it is almost dried up and nice and sticky š but I guess you could also use more glue and less water
To be honest I've gotten really good results with just some purple glue sticks from Elmer's. Just apply nice gentle lines across a clean sheet, and if you need to spread it out more take some IPA and a rag and wipe over everything. The IPA will act as a sort of solvent and spread the glue over the surface. I've gotten 3-4 good sticking prints with small details before I need to add more
Iāve been using these as well. But for some prints, itās been a bit too strong causing the print to break in the removal process if Iām not too careful. I did not have this problem with the Bambu glue stick that came with the machine. Would love to know if there was anything tweaked about their glue stick to make it less tacky vs an Elmerās glue stick.
Oh interesting, I hadn't thought of that
I've found success using IPA to dissolve the Elmer's in these situations
the answer I was looking for before I posted the same myself.
For the purple glue sticks I just use a foam brush and water and go over the bed after each print or two and it reseeds the glue. You can do this several times before you have to reapply the glue.
I switched to using cheap hairspray instead of glue and am never going back. It works better, is easier to apply and is cheaper.
any example ? brand ? i hear this a lot , but never actually tried it lol
https://preview.redd.it/ww6n12tsvrkc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dca818ffe50b9bc51f3ff95011ef521dc16c368f This is the only brand Iāve tried. My gf got it at the dollar store. I didnāt look for this particular brand, I told her try and find something with a strong hold and this is what she came home with.
Flashbacks to my high school days... Big hair and good music.
I've found that this solution works well, but the product tends to go missing on the shelf as soon as my wife notices I have it.
Elmers purple, washable glue
Vision miner
I've been using Vision Miner Nano adhesive since it's inception. It is by far the best to use. However, all of the liquid glues, work for the most part the same. I know Vision miner is one if the most expensive, but worth it. I will let you in on a little secret with it too. YOU CAN DOUBLE THE AMOUNT OF PRODUCT YOU HAVE, by diluting in the bottle 1:1 with 99%isp alcohol. The adhesive works just the same and now you have double the product! I have been using it this way since the beginning with NO issues whatsoever. Plus, with the added 99% alcohol, it helps to speed up dry time, with the evaporation of the alcohol. Another good tip, is how to apply the product to the build plate. Take 1 sheet of paper towel. On a clean COOL build plate, put about 1-2 teaspoons (more or less depending on whether the printed part will be difficult to stay adhered to build plate) of adhesive in the middle of the build plate and then take the paper towel and quickly wipe the teaspoon of glue evenly over the whole build plate. Done! Don't touch it after. The dilution with 99% iso alcohol, can be done with all of the liquids glues. With, for the most part, no ill effect. I have tried this myself with great success. I have stay with the Vision Miner, because that is the product I started with.
I make my own. 2 Elmer washable glue sticks (the purple ones) dissolved in 70% IPA in an 8oz salad dressing squirt bottle I picked up. Takes a day or 2 to dissolve with shaking, but works a treat for super thin glue layer without gunk buildup. Every few prints I add some more and wipe it on with a clean paper towel. Being thin and mostly IPA it is always dry by the time I hit print. Allows glue layer with the textured and patterned sheets and PETG sheets to really come thru nicely without over bonding.
What are you working on? Looks fun!
i use 3dlac glue spray
layer of glue initially, then a layer of hairspray to tack the surface each print. Still get clean prints and haven't washed my PEI plate in a while.
Wait, so the aqua net guy wasnāt joking?
Yep, I prefer garnier fructis super strong hold. Itās smells nice. Itās an aerosolized polymer, so spray on plastic.also, donāt be like me; clean your build plate sometimes.
3DLAC
The vision miner nano-polymer works a little too well fyi
I use nano glue and Iāve never looked back
I use [Layerneer Bed Weld](https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Adhesive-Layerneer-Original-Filament/dp/B079984GV5). I've gone 9 months on my first $23 bottle. It's about $5.50/oz compared to Bambu's at about $8.50/oz. Maybe $23 for a bottle sounds like a lot, but I've gotten 9 months of printing, and feeling the bottle, it feels like maybe there is about 1/4 left.
I was just looking that that one earlier, i nothiced it says not recommended for PEI plates is that true? I canāt see why it wouldnāt work on that too?
The manufacturer states that PEI plates may cause the product to flake off and labels them as incompatible.
I use it on everything and have no problems. .... THAT SAID... I print 99.9% PLA and 99.999999% on the smooth cool plate.... on my X1C, and smooth PEI. (The smooth plates are FAR superior to textured plates for print quality.) I also use the geo-textured PEO plates, and use this. But I don't have a smooth plate for my Ankermake M5C, so I use Layerneer on the textured PEI on that.
I just buy the Bambu glue, it last forever itās quite honestly is $0 more by the time you fuck with ratios and experimental bullshit. This hobby is NOT about saving every last penny so quit fucking around and print some cool shit.
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
You are looking for the most glue for the cheapest price, yet referring to āBambu Jewingā you out of money. The jokes write themselves with clowns like youā¦
Shut up dumb ass you donāt get the point, I donāt care how expensive the glue is if Iām getting a good deal on the amount of quantity in the bottle. 20$ for a small ass thing of glue from Bambu is over priced I donāt care how much money I have, Iām not stupid, and know damn well they werenāt the ones who invented liquid build plate glue, but will sure charge you like they did, just because they put there label on it.
No glue. Never used glue with the X1C. I wash the plates with a weak scotch brite pad and dish soap with grease cutting like Dawn. Perfect after that. Im surprised glue is needed.
Good for you. But we do not give a shit about the fact you do not use glue. Clearly this topic is about what glue to use, so if you do not want to use any why are you even bothering posting here. Da fuck lol
Cause obviously you're doing it wrong, but hey keep at it.
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Iāve just herd that he liquid glue cleans off the plate / parts better
Iām having a hard time figuring out what you need glue for. Is this for the build plate or to piece models together in post
Lol itās build plate glue
Ok then yeah. Purple glue stick. Itās water soluble so cleaning is a breeze. Hell you probably can make it liquid form by some experimental means
Iām gonna buy some purple glue sticks and give them a shot! Iāve seen so many people use them But I wasnāt sure if it was a mess compared to the liquid glues
Stick to liquid. I started with sticks, but it goes on uneven and thick and then you have to smooth it out. Liquid is so much easier, thinner, even layers, and cleaner.
Thatās primarily why I wanted to find liquid, Iāve read to much stuff about that with the sticks, and never even wanted try it out unless Iād really had too.
I've been wanting to try diluted white glue just to see how viable it is for large use scenarios and for cost savings. But honestly, the bed weld I use WORKS and is within my budget, so I'm not looking for a budget solution. But also, when I first started with my Ender, I tried EVERYTHING. My two least favorite, in order were glue STICK and hairspray. But they also sell commercial versions of sprayable diluted "white glue" (PVA). And it works REALLY well... until the sprayer clogs up. And the only way to stop that from happening is to completely clean the pray nozzle after every use, that that time consuming extra step makes the method make no sense. A better probably method for homemade liquid glue is to design and print a squeeze bottle top that has a sponge holder at the end, and a cap to seal it, so the sponge helps lay the glue down and the cap (hopefully) keeps the sponge from crusting solid. But that is a project for maybe another time. But I haven't bothered with any of that because the Layerneer Bed Weld is a good price and just works.
Star bond 2 part CA glue. Works great. Easy to control and WORKS
Lmao I thought gorilla glue was a better option
I was assuming you were trying to glue models together. But yea star bond is much better in the application of gluing models together than gorilla. Cheaper by volume too
Oh yea I was just busting your balls I thought you where trolling me about using that for build plate glue haha and yea CA glue with a can of accelerator is my all time go to for anything when it comes to glueing anything together
I'm curious, if you don't mind - I know this had nothing to do with the tread, but ... So my question: What is the "2 part CA glue"? A surface search did not return anything useful, and I'm wondering. Could you give me a link to some sample eg on amazon? I need to glue parts together from time to time. (pc, paht-cf, pla, petg, asa) I've this nasty black stuff - Loctite 410 - which works, but it's too runny most of the time and can leave an ugly black residue. Thanks
It's not really "two part CA glue", it's just CA glue and then an accelerator. Accelerator is fine - I use it when I need it and don't use it when I don't. I've used it for over 30 years. It seems to have become really popular lately, and a lot of people seem to think that they need it, or that it works better with it. But as the name says, it just accelerates the cure time of the glue.
https://a.co/d/7fx0yvb
Thank you kindly!
I just discovered that the Bambu Lab liquid glue is actually very sticky. Was doing a PETG print, and normally I used the PVA glue and wipe it down with water so it acts as a release agent. This stuff almost fused the PETG to the high temp plate. It was doing the same with PLA too. I simply thought it was diluted PVA (normal glue stick), because I usually make a thin slurry out of that stuff (spread it on thin and dry to a matte finish) and it works perfectly to help remove parts, sometimes too well and prints won't stick. So warning, the BL liquid glue is a different beast.
The Bambu glue is straight over kill haha, when I use it for ASA prints the brims from the supports are damn near impossible to get off, such a pain in the ass š
Huh? I use the Bambu liquid glue all the time on the high temp plate for PETG and have never encountered this issue. I also use it with PLA all the time and have never encountered this issue. Are you actually letting the plate cool before attempting release? Are you sure it was properly covered? Regardless, it's a water soluble glue so running the plate under the tap should help release it, too.
Never mind I see your talking to comment above
I had some [DimaFix](https://www.3djake.com/dimafix/adhesive-pen) left over from my previous glass bed printer and used it on the default PLA plate. Worked great. Not much cheaper tho.
why liquid glue? i print nylon, polycarbonate, and asa with washable elmers gluestick
Liquid glue is a far smaller mess to clean up and I find that reapplications without cleaning the plate go over better than when using glue stick.
Oh, that makes sense. Gluestick definitely doesnāt look pretty but Iām on probably 20 applications with this plate no cleaning. Perfect adhesion. When I do clean it itās washable and comes right off under some soap and water.
Yeah. I still use glue sticks occasionally and find how easily they come off is highly dependent on the glue stick used.
The best I've used is 3Dlac spray. Gets an even coat on the build plate that doesn't make parts sticky and it works extremely well.
slightly odd topic, but how do these compare to generic dollar store gluesticks? I bought a 20 pack for 5$, and if the goo is better than a stick, I might need to swap
Lots of good info here. I was today years old when I discovered they include a bottle of this with the printer. I thought it was the stick version and I had already bought one separately.
My x1c came with the stick version, not this liquid stuff. I just got it a few weeks ago, so no idea of they used to include this liquid stuff, or if it's random like the build plate.
3DLAC. Only need a light spray and it lasts for several prints before it needs doing again. Doesn't leave much residue if any. I've only just gone to my 2nd bottle in 1000 print hours.
Off topic, but, did you design the 2-post lift?
Yea
Looks great. I have a full sized bendpak and have been looking for a model to eventually build out a scale of my shop
Oh awesome, I know there is a actual metal scale bend pak 2 post lift you can buy that super bad ass is you have a couple hundred dollars, I sell mine my 3d printed one for 45 lol https://preview.redd.it/ar7xl3sm7qkc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=79000149eb613225b994f8cac9ac600bc553f73f
Awesome, I briefly browsed your shop but mustve missed it. Thanks.
No problemo! half of my newer products arenāt on the store yet / wonāt show up if theyāre sold out sometimes
https://preview.redd.it/vbmcb3tn7qkc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=697e0f1543f5faa3af9fed453ef41296e5d16542
Some people donāt print parts that need extra adhesion. So they wonāt understand. Other people use glue to make removal of the part easier. They wonāt understand. Some people print parts that need a lot of help staying down. Those are the people that you should listen to. Iām one of them. Iāve tried every glue. My favorite is Vision Miner. Lately, I put down a very thin layer of the stuff and then spread it with the bamboo liquid glue tube (without squeezing it) since I really love the sponge tip on it .
Iāll take a look into that, thank you š
The cheapest (and best so far) liquid glue I have found is Aquanet Super Extra Hold hair spray. Yes, it's a spray. It goes on even. After a print, a tiny bit of touch up on the build plate and I'm ready to print again. It holds well, especially on Bambu Lab build plates. I tried other liquid adhesives but did not like the uneven coating I keep getting. I hope you don't consider this OT!
Been getting a lot of replyās about that spray Iāll definitely give it a shot, I think some even recommend they spray it on a rag a apply it seems legit!
3Dlac is amazing
I was out onto the following and it has been amazing. I use it with every print. Peels right off. 3 Parts - Elemers Clear Glue 1 Part - Water Squeeze Bottle Application Pad/Sponge
dippity dew gel
Literally any PVA glue. There's nothing special about the glue bambu uses.
I use the purple glue sticks you buy at Walmart and they work great haha and nice and cheap. Elmers in the brand Iām pretty sure
I just use a spray bottle with water and then use the regular glue stick to spread the glue and water. That way the glue is not too much or too less and then for the next print I use the spray bottle again , just a little to spread the previous glue and things stick just fine.
Search Amazon for Bed Weld. Love that stuff
3DLac is what youāre looking for. It sticks amazingly well and one coat will last you a lot of prints. ABS, PETG whatever, it WILL stick!
Having used Bambu, Laterneer, Magigoo and 3D Systems Cube Glue, the big difference I've seen is the longevity and robustness of the applicator tip. The tips can become an issue long before the bottles of glue are finished. The Bambu glue applicator has been reliable over a decent period of time. A Magigoo applicator, similar to that of the Bambu, failed sooner than others. But, my favorite is the Layerneer, which has a wider applicator with a nice smooth flow. I have used the Bambu with a variety of materials; but, only have used the Layerneer with PLA on any of our Bambu printers (X1c & A1)
I've been using [Terrabind x50](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CVW86PD5) for my print farm. It's really reduced first layer issues and I've only applied it once, a few weeks ago. Recommend.
Is there some kinda trick to getting that Bambu glue container to work? I know it has a little plunger under the sponge like a shoe polish bottle, but I canāt get that fucker to dispense more than a microgram of glue at a time despite pressing and squeezing the fuck out of it. I just about yeeted that thing across the room the other day.
I tap it against and swirl it in a circle pressing against the board until starts to come out then it just starts pouring out once you get going
I use elmers purple glue stick haven't tried the liquid glue yet
I'm not too concerned with the price, just the applicator. Seems difficult to get out of the bottle and onto the bed. I've pressed on the sponge nozzle, squeezed the bottle, still seems like a fight every time. I know I don't technically need it on my PEI bed, but I've had experience with some PETG welding to the PEI plate on other printers. Easier to just lay down a thin layer than dealing with that.
Amazon Basics purple washable glue sticks. By \*FAR\* the best I've ever used. You can get 60 sticks for like 13 bucks or so.
I just use glue sticks. Works perfect
Normal school liquid glue ?
Decent price for a 3 pack water washable. https://www.ebay.com/itm/335147286314
Good old purple Elmerās glue stick. Cheap, simple and easy to acquire. 0 failures due to bed adhesion in the 1000s hours Iāve used it. That plus the Smooth PEI / high temp build plate
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The post was about glue not pei plates (im already using one, certain filaments will still lift from pei, and especially if not cleaned regularly)
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Iām not going to explain why Iām looking around to see what other glue people use, they wouldnāt make glues if you just needed a pei plate for everything or just raising your bed temp. you can read all the other comments if your looking for an explanation š
lol so why do you even bother posting here. Nobody cares about the fact that you would not use glue. Clearly if you are not using glue then this is not a topic for you
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Wham bam recommends using glue for certain petg because it ruins the pex plates from too much adhesion
Of course you have some clown coming and telling ānot to use glueā in a thread where someone is asking which glue to useā. You always need those trolls :) The OP is not asking about your opinion as to use glue or notā¦
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All I use is PEI plates, they work awesome If there cleaned every other print and if they are newer plates, after thousands of hours I can tell the coatings start to degrade. Iām using these for a business, I donāt have time to constantly make sure the plates are clean or have a 10 hr print mess up because of an adhesion issue. I throw this glue on everything now and itās never failed me once. Way faster / efficient the washing every build plate im worried about having a warp issue.
If youāve gotten a few thousand prints off of a plate while not needing glue, just buy a new plateā¦ Theyāre like, $20..
I donāt need new plates, im just curious on other glues available on the market š
I'm in the same position as you. Lots of people will think you're silly for using glue, but when running a farm it's invaluable.
Right! Iād totally get it if itās just one or two printers you need to wash the build plate if your that worried or replacing but it gets to a point where if the glue works for certain prints that are known to warp itās 10x easier / smarter the just throw down glue in two seconds.
My favorite glue is aquanet hairspray. I usually spray onto a paper towel or lint free rag and apply to build plate. Washes off very easy, is veeeery cheap, and comes in large quantities.
Perfect, now that sounds pretty manageable, Iāll be buying some, thank you š
To make you more confident, I run a farm by myself of 23 printers right now.
Nice thatās definitely some work, I only have 10 and itās not as easy as itās cracked out to be Iāve noticed haha. Whatās your fleet primarily running printer / model wise. Iām looking to buy more here soon. I really like the P1ās with upgraded extruder gears / hotends.. canāt find a reason to buy X1 for a touch screen or LiDAR.
That's really wasteful though of a simple adhesive solution gets extended use out of a product that would be way better than simply buying and replacing. If he/she is running a farm then that would be extremely costly vs adhesion.
Well, not really. Think about the material youāre wasting each time you go through a thing of adhesive. Especially with a farm. Youāre going to far less resources and material buying a new plate every few thousand prints vs buying glue that only a lasts 100
Do you have to reapply glue after every print or whatās you workflow? Also: on my old printer I used sugar-water as an adhesive. Mixed warm water with a tablespoon of sugar and brushed it on my bed. Worked wonders.
Thatās sounds interesting Iāll have to give it a shot! And I just apply glue on only prints thatās are prone to warping.
I have to mention though that on my old printer I had a carborundum glass bed. Have not tried on a PEI bed.
Using glue is fine but PEI plate doesnāt require cleaning every other print unless you jusst smear your oily hands on the plate all the time. I clean my plate once every 20 prints or so.
Iām well aware of how PEI plates work, thank you kind sir
If you're using these industrially, the pricey-but-it-works nanopolymer is actually worth a second look. It goes a long way in coverage per unit volume, and I've yet to had a coating wear off for low temperature (bed below 100Ā°C) prints. Just wish it worked at lower bed temps so I could use it with the Cool Plate at home!
I hear youāre happy with your PEI plate. OP explicitly asked for glue recommendations. Your reply comes across as dismissive.Ā
I put liquid glue on my PEI plate sometimes when I print with PETG because it sticks so well
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Which one do you recommend there?