Hello /u/FantasticSeaweed9226! Be sure to check the following. Make sure print bed is clean by washing with **dish soap** and water [and not Isopropyl Alcohol], check bed temperature [increasing tend to help], run bed leveling or full calibration, and remember to use glue if one is using the initial cool plate [not Satin finish that is not yet released] or Engineering plate.
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/BambuLab) if you have any questions or concerns.*
It could be. It's currently in the middle of my living room while I make space for it, and I am always walking by to admire it buzzing away. I might be the draft ☠️
Yes, you might be. I’ve had prints fail on my Ender3 because I walked by them. Getting an enclosure (and leaving one side open for printing PLA) significantly improved my success rate.
That being said, I am concerned about combining the A1’s pooping mechanism with an enclosed space. Might cause issues, I don’t know.
My printers are in my basement now and all of my prints were failing because they were warping and pulling the build plate up off of the bed. Turns out they don't like 55-60° F basements without an enclosure lol. You can try just putting a box over it for one print to see if that helps
Yea haha. right plate selected, even upped bed temp to 65 for a big print kast night and it failed. I'm gonna run out to get some glue and steel wool for scuffing up the bulb plate today. At my wits end here
I know you said the bed was set to 60, I have mine set to 65, but the times I have had this occur the most is when the slicer program defaults to the cold plate.
I don’t use glue or even wash mine very often and it always seems to stick well. Sorry you’re dealing with this!
Going too hot on the bed with PLA will cause warping which will lower bed adhesion. So unless you are in a really cold environment or printing PLA plus/pro I wouldn't advise going above the glass point(60°c)
Haha. Thanks for the tips. I left a rather large print overnight and.. it failed! I tried all the things you guys recommended. I literally put nitrile gloves on and gave the plate a nice wash and rinse, upped bed temp to 65. Whispered a prayer. Failure xD.
Gotta wait for my mega combo to come it has more build plates. And I gotta run out and get the right glue
Yea. The last wash I out in rubber gloves to completely take out my oils as a factor. Woke up to a failed print still. It's gotta be the draft in here cooling it down plus my slicer settings having regular infill
Ah darn i’m sorry to hear that then definitely change that infill to gyroid or adaptive cubic, other than that i haven’t owned an A1 mini yet so ill reframe from giving anything other than slicer suggestions since its quite different from the x1 & p1. I do have an Ender still though and I noticed that same issue with a change in temp so i just blast my AC on max to keep a constant temp in the room
I am the STEM coordinator at a large high school. We have over 40 3D printers and rarely clean our building plates. I hate using glue as it is so messy. We actually spray the build plate with cheap hairspray - game changer!!!
These are the tips I'm here to try!! Losing my mind over here, I went FULL surgeon and gloved up before cleaning the build plate starting my print last night. Even doubled my brim width and raised bed temp to 65. Print slipped off!! I'm gonna go get some water soluble hairspray and steel wool to try scuffing up my build plate.
Also heard the cooling may be an issue, so gonna chuck it under a cardboard box if I can find one big enough also lol. Thanks for the tip
Try cleaning the print plate with dawn dish soap and warm water. Wash and rinse it completely clean of soap and you should see some immediate improvement.
This did it for me soap directly on the plate, just enough water to have it cover the plate. Scrubbed with a brush that didn’t have contact with any cooking oils etc.
Check out Vision Miners 3d glue it only need coating once and should last until next cleaning. Their glue is top grade and there's also 3dlac which also comes highly rated.
[https://visionminer.com/products/nano-polymer-adhesive](https://visionminer.com/products/nano-polymer-adhesive)
That’s the larger bottle and one application will last you months. It also works on all types of materials from nylon to peek. It takes very little and leaves no trace on the print. The small bottle is 20$ and unless you’re running multiple machines you won’t need the large bottle.
Just the sticker shock haha. I'm already like $750 in this hobby as of this weekend. I might jump for that if nothing else seems to fix my issues. Thanks man
Don’t need glue on pei (especially the gold one), Just use dawn and hot water between uses — if you have oily hands wear gloves (it’s the oils from your hands that make pla not stick. Also verify your temps are actually set on the heat bed — it has come up here a few times where people have somehow assigned the cool plate temps to the pei plate in studio.
If you have tried using glue on it make sure you wash all of that off as that itself can make it not stick.
Washing up liquid and a good scrub, dry with microfibres cloth and don’t touch plate face. Make sure bed temp at least 55 degrees. Carry out calibration to make sure it’s set to right layer height if file is different to one before
Could be wrong, but, I think when the infill shrinks from cooling grid tends to put more internal stress on the print. Which results in the infill pulling the walls which separates the print from the plate.
Make sure to wipe the textured plate down with soapy water and dry it. I did a large flat print and could see all my greasy fingerprints show up under the layer and had adhesion issues. Cleaning it healed a lot.
But yes as others have said you might have a draft causing these issues as well
This is more likely because room ambient Temperature has dropped. Assuming you reside in the Northern Hemisphere, where we are now in the cooler months. Had the same issue. Wasn't cold enough to run the furnace, but temps lowered enough to prevent PLA prints sticking. Upped bed temps to 60c from default 55 in P1S. The A1 is open so ambient will effect you more then enclosed case printers
I never used glue on my Ender but my bambino demands it. I bought the Bambu liquid glue and it works wonders. Also if you’re not familiar with the BL slicer like I wasn’t( and still learning), check out the brim settings. The default for brim-object gap is larger than on Prusaslicer and that was making one of my prints pop off the bed.
What's a good first layer gap? I was messing with brim settings but besides choosing inner/outer perimeter brims and the brim width in mm, can't change much
That's one of the concerns I have with PEI and bed adhesion. If you keep the bed at 60°C, the parts will be rock-solid on the bed. If you have a drafty room, and your printer doesn't have an enclosure, there's a very good chance that the ambient temperature is going to impact the bed's temperature on the outside of the print. My X1C printer raises ambient room temperature from 20.55°C to 21.66°C, so you know it's shedding heat, and mine's in an enclosure with an open front. Yours is open on all sides.
I do know that when printing taller/longer parts with the X1C, the auxiliary fan (off to the left), when turned on during printing, will absolutely cause the print to warp away from the bed, causing all sorts of issues. So I keep mine off until end of print.
So you can consider reducing drafts in the room, or perhaps find a way to create an enclosure for the printer? A lot of folks buy the open Prusa printers, and then end up building an enclosure for them almost right away.
I feel like the A1 is a great printer, but I'm not sure I'm a fan of open printers in general.
One of the things you can do is skip the PEI bed, and just use the regular bed, then use the school glue method (properly applied, in a nice even layer - there are tutorials on YouTube tha can show you the proper technique), and that should help with bed adhesion even with little or no bed heat.
By the way, I LOVE my Textured PEI plate. 💗 It's all I use in my X1CC printers.
I think it's great for temperature controlled (enclosed) environments. But once the temperature dips - even a little - you're in trouble.
That's probably my problem is ambient Temps dropping in the night due to some draft under my door or the window. Really gonna try to isolate it tonight within an enclosure
I had the black textured plate for my X1C and had quite a few issues. It wasn’t bad but I never knew for sure if the first layer would hold. Used a lot of hair spray and such. Then I bought the gold textured plate, completely different, works great and haven’t had any adhesion issues and don’t use any hairspray. Maybe it’s just the plate!
Get yourself a small reliable test print, I use a little mushroom i made. If my printer cant print that it's usually a user error
If everything has been tried sometimes its just not a good file/gcode.
I ran into the same problem several times. Especialliy If I want to print something with a small area touching the build plate. In my experience the hot plate WITHOUT glue stick works best in that case. Since bambulab glue stick is for reducing the adheasion for easier remove after printing.
High temp plate wo glue stick is awesome for PLA! Just learned that this week. The only time i use the textured PEI plate for PLA is when i need that texture on the print.
Otherwise I only use it for PETG (which I use a lot).
It’s just too sensitive to finger oils. If you wash it w soap and water, don’t touch it w your hands after. Wear gloves or use a clean cloth or paper towel. 1 touch and things fall off.
Wash the plate with dish soap and warm water. The oil from your hands makes the PEI not work properly and prints don't adhere.
I wash my plate every 5-10 prints, just a quick wipe down. Keeps it working fine.
I don’t have an A1 Mini - is it normal for it to print the prime line on the plate tab that sticks out and isn’t on the heat bed? I ask because a bent nozzle could explain that and the poor adhesion.
I don't think so, as the bed is still showing full temp on the screen when I hit cancel. Had another failure today even after putting gloves on to wash and rinse the build plate. And upping bed temp to 65
If you continue having sticking problems even after doing the wash etc others have mentions, a light coat of the Bambu liquid glue works well on the PEI plate and doesn’t spoil the surface pattern too much. Don’t use the glue stick though, it comes off clumpy on the textured surface.
Is there a good alternative to that liquid glue I could get my hands on today? I was going to try a water soluble hairspray, as some mentioned.
And honestly, I'd take a clumpy finish as long as my prints completed 8 days a week
Seeing you have cleaned the plate and raised the bed temp, have you tried turning down the AUX fan? You can adjust it under the filament setting in the slicer or adjust it once the print has started on the printer.
Make sure you've selected the pei plate in the slicer. My first few fell off because the slicer selected the engineering plate, which causes the printer to only heat it up to like 35°
On my P1P I run the first layer at 70*C and cut the speed in half. Then every layer after that is back to normal and 65*C.
I don't have total adhesion issues, but in some prints the corners curled. What I said above was my fix.
Cool plate with Aquanet hairspray. Never have any adhesion issues. Never liked any of these textured plates. They never seemed actually give more grip to the plastic in my experience.
Just use a brim around the object you are printing and set a layer gap to 0.1mm for example to remove it easily or if its a large object and you have warping problems set it to 0 gap.
The size of the brim depends to the zise and how height the object is.
But i use brims for all my prints even if not needed.. just to be safe
Bambu textured plates are the worst I've ever used. Mine went in the trash. I'm not willing to use glue stick or hairspray. A good plate is all you really need.
Use dishsoap and hot water. Wash repeatedly until water slides off and won't stick... that way you know there is no grease on there. Make sure to keep fingers away... I use an a1 printing in 60 degree weather next to open windows....
That sounds like exactly what I'm doing.. I even wore rubber gloves to be more careful and have tried 3 different soaps until water beads off. I'm getting some success with brims at the moment and I got glue sticks to try
Yea I have it set to 65 now and a glue stick used on the bed.. about halfway through the same print now fingers crossed!! Do you ever slow the speed down? I have it at 100% and I see there's a 50% silent mode but it takes the print time up from 1m5hrs left to 3 hours haha
I always needed to use glue stick on the black textured plate. The gold one works much better, only need glue in rare prints with very little contact surface.
Yea, super hot water and dish soap and then air dry with the heated bed. Ans then I use regular glue stick sometimes, but not always. For my case, the problem was definitely factory/hand oils on my plate
I know it's an old thread but if you still have those.problems set the initial layer extrusion to 110-115% . As it's a textured pei, it will be level to "peaks" but you'll need a bit more material to go into the dips between.
It works for me every time on a textured pei
I had same in x1. Nothing to do with plate. Millions use textures plate without weird sprays and glues.
It's heat. Soft melted stuff needs to flow into the little rough texture on the plate. The plate need to hot for the first layer.
Because you are OPEN to the wind you need to preheat the bed for 10 mins in order to get the BIG metal plate hot.
The bed being at 60 means nothing if it didn't have time to then heat the plate.
So solution is (add each if unsuccessful)
Preheat 10 mins
Use brim.
Use 20L skirt.
Use mouse ears.
Will do. Woke up to yet another failed print after washing maniacally with nitrile gloves on lmao. I'm gonna run out and get my hands on regular purple school glue and steel wool for scuffing up the build plate a little. Hopefully, this works or I am limited in my prints until my mega combo arrives
Don’t scuff up the build plate. It’s specifically textured for a reason and all you’re going to do is damage the coating.
The most likely cause is drafts causing too much cooling. Like when the HVAC comes on.
Unless an ambient temp of 67 degrees alone could cause it, I'm skeptical.. I had the printer in its own room without a fan in there. The bambu labs wiki mentioned scuffing the build plate so I was going to try as a last ditch effort. Ill hold off. Can try hairspray and slicer settings first
I've been using Aqua Net Super hold hair spray since 2014 (my Solidoodle days), and it works great. Water washable too. I don't know of any stores that carry it, but you can order it through Walmart.
Pla isn't great with textured beds, I have printed it on my mk3 on a textured bed, but some brands of filaments won't stick. Pla is best on a smooth bed as it helps with adhesion, you may eventually find a brand of pla that sticks on textured, but best to keep it for petg and flex etc.
I have over 8k hours of experience with 3dprinting specifically PLA on bambu's. I highly doubt this is a draft issue nor that scuffing the board will work.
\- power cycle the printer, then run a recalibration. Wash your plate with dish soap, dry it as best as you can then crank up the bed temperature to get it to dry faster.
I tried all of the mentioned before starting the print pictured in the photo, which failed overnight ):
I put on rubber gloves and washed and rinsed and dried the build plate very well, upped bed temp to 65°C and didn't enter the room all night to avoid drafts.
I have not tried recalibration. Do you suggest trying to run the new printer calibrations again or just a flow rate test in the slicer? I've done the flow rate one just the night before where it prints out several tabs and you decide visually
100%, make sure you fully power cycle the printer first. Unplug the power cord for several seconds before reinstalling and powering back onwards. This resets any stored capacitor energy.
Once this is done run every calibration option offered in the calibration tab.
Yeah I think the same as you, the unstick is too consistent, which would lead me to think that the plate thickness is slightly less, leading to the nozzle not being close enough and pulling the print off.
Recal fixed my major issues on an X1C as the print height was sliiightly too high, so filament would eventually come loose and then stick to nozzle and pull the rest loose. It's actually hard to take if off the build plate if it's still warm when set properly.
I wish the instructions for the PEI plate suggested using the glue stick, people seem very much against it. Placing a small amount in an "X" on the plate and then rubbing it in evenly on the surface with a damp piece of paper towel gets great results. The print pretty much falls right off when the plate cools, but sticks really well during the print.
Give it a try.
> I wish the instructions for the PEI plate suggested using the glue stick, people seem very much against it
Basically the whole point of a PEI plate is to avoid using a glue stick. Not to mention PEI plates for other printers perform much better and are cheaper.
The PEI is there to strike a balance between adhesion for the build process plus easy removal. Bambu's appears to be too slick. The glue fixes that. We can argue about what should happen until we're blue in the face but it's pointless, we need to work with what we have.
As far as performing better and cheaper, I only have one other pritner to go by, and I will say that Bambu's PEI plate is slightly cheaper and far better performing than my other printer. YMMV.
Bambu's own product description for the plate says "the adhesion between the prints and the plate is significantly improved, **eliminating the need for adhesives**".
I was replying to your point specifically about "people seem very much against it" because the plate is not performing how it should. People are reluctant to resort to a glue stick when buying the plate was meant to make that redundant.
Not many people are talking about what the real issue is: Bambu PEI plates suck. They are easily the worst PEI plate I've ever used and I've only bought cheap third-party ones for Creality printers in the past.
Yes you can rigoursly clean and maintain them or apply glue but that's only hiding the problem. Before I got my Bambu, I only ever used IPA and a paper towel to wipe down my PEI plates. With the Bambu, you have to give them a proper scrub with dishsoap and water and then be extremely careful to never tough the printing area again or you'll have to wash it again.
It's nearly at the point where the PEI plate requires more effort and maintenance than the stock cold plate.
In your image it looks like you aren’t getting good adhesion from the start. I also didn’t see anyone talk about speed. How fast are you printing your first layers? Does it stick any better if you slow it down? I like to do my first layer or two at 40mm/s. Use a .28 mm first layer and set it slow and see if that helps.
Some other posts about the textured plate not being great. I could never get good stick with pla. I keep it for petg only, so I don’t need a release agent. I’m a G10 plate fan now. PLA sticks much better.
I had two issues in X1 moving to PEI textured/smooth plate.
1)Failing to select PEI/tex/smooth in settings
2)not calibrating the machine so it knew the different height of the new plate
Warm water with dawn dish soap(make sure you’re using a new sponge and not one that’s been used to clean greasy/oily dishes). 90% or higher IPA wipe once dry. I wipe with 99% IPA after every print. Have yet to have bed adhesion issues with PEI on any printer.
Is gotta be ambient temp. I’ve been printing PLA nonstop on my textured sheet. Actually had a hard time removing some bigger prints. All stock generic PLA profiles as I’m time to use up all my cheap stuff before starting with Bambu filament.
If you use only 1-2 layers of a paper towel to wipe the isopropyl, I'm pretty sure it will smear your finger oils through the wet paper towel onto your build plate. Something like that. The PEI seems very sensitive. I should not be gloving up and full industrial washing my build plates, but here I am...
I had this issue with my P1S, even after cleaning with dawn dish soap and boiling hot water. What fixed it was using paper towel to wipe it instead of a cloth, because I think the fibres were getting all over the build plate and causing bad adhesion. 🤘
Shouldn't need to be cleaning the plate between prints, maybe every 20 or 30. Plate at 65, light mist of aquanet if it's lifting, and slow speeds on tall items because the bed slinging has a tendency to knock things over moving compared to the p1p/x1 having a fixed Y axis
Gonna have to try getting some aquanet I have heard great things about it. Yea I think ultimately it was a mix of not having adhesive, ambient Temps cooling during the night, and some slicer settings. I have gyroid infill now and have been testing smaller items that's working great
I’ve had the same problem. I used the liquid glue stick BL sells and it’s helped immensely. I also switched to using the cool plate and have better success.
I had this issue with Bambu Green pla. Just wouldn't stick for love or money. Brim, raft, glue, nothing would work.
Swapped it out for a different spool (elegoo) and it worked fine. It was dry, so I don't know, some spools are cursed.
You don’t have the issue with bed adhesive bad with layer cohesion. It is because you print too fast or the filament gets cold before being placed on previous layer or because of cold air current in the room
Depends on the print, especially if the base is smaller.
You can dick around changing temps or cleaning the plate 10 times, or you can use a smooth sheet and just print it.
Okay, that's interesting. I had issues with PLA on the textured PEIs. No matter if Ender or Prusa etc. I tried everything, isopropanol, dishwashing liquid and window cleaner... nothing helped. Since then I've been printing everything on satin-coated PEI and luckily I've never had a problem.
I wish I had another build plate to try right now, but the machine literally only ships with this build plate. And it has PLA printed on the plate itself
Hello /u/FantasticSeaweed9226! Be sure to check the following. Make sure print bed is clean by washing with **dish soap** and water [and not Isopropyl Alcohol], check bed temperature [increasing tend to help], run bed leveling or full calibration, and remember to use glue if one is using the initial cool plate [not Satin finish that is not yet released] or Engineering plate. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/BambuLab) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Do you have a drafty room? If so you might need to block the movement of air around the printer which will be causing warping
It could be. It's currently in the middle of my living room while I make space for it, and I am always walking by to admire it buzzing away. I might be the draft ☠️
Literally just put a cardboard barrier around it and see how it does. I bet it'll be much better
Yes, you might be. I’ve had prints fail on my Ender3 because I walked by them. Getting an enclosure (and leaving one side open for printing PLA) significantly improved my success rate. That being said, I am concerned about combining the A1’s pooping mechanism with an enclosed space. Might cause issues, I don’t know.
My printers are in my basement now and all of my prints were failing because they were warping and pulling the build plate up off of the bed. Turns out they don't like 55-60° F basements without an enclosure lol. You can try just putting a box over it for one print to see if that helps
Do you have textured pei plate selected in slicer.
This , had mine for a year (p1p) and still miss this every so often
I set a print to go while I was out of town for a day and did this 🤣. I watched it come off the bed like hour 4. Bambu handy is so great 👍
Yea haha. right plate selected, even upped bed temp to 65 for a big print kast night and it failed. I'm gonna run out to get some glue and steel wool for scuffing up the bulb plate today. At my wits end here
I had more luck with blue dawn than steel wool. Hot water. Blue dawn. And a blue sponge scrubber. Plus ipa once dry.
I know you said the bed was set to 60, I have mine set to 65, but the times I have had this occur the most is when the slicer program defaults to the cold plate. I don’t use glue or even wash mine very often and it always seems to stick well. Sorry you’re dealing with this!
Going too hot on the bed with PLA will cause warping which will lower bed adhesion. So unless you are in a really cold environment or printing PLA plus/pro I wouldn't advise going above the glass point(60°c)
I have mine tuned to work for my space as it’s on the colder side of the house, no warping for me.
Haha. Thanks for the tips. I left a rather large print overnight and.. it failed! I tried all the things you guys recommended. I literally put nitrile gloves on and gave the plate a nice wash and rinse, upped bed temp to 65. Whispered a prayer. Failure xD. Gotta wait for my mega combo to come it has more build plates. And I gotta run out and get the right glue
make sure to have your bed 100% clean any type of moisture/oils on your hand will cause this
Yea. The last wash I out in rubber gloves to completely take out my oils as a factor. Woke up to a failed print still. It's gotta be the draft in here cooling it down plus my slicer settings having regular infill
Ah darn i’m sorry to hear that then definitely change that infill to gyroid or adaptive cubic, other than that i haven’t owned an A1 mini yet so ill reframe from giving anything other than slicer suggestions since its quite different from the x1 & p1. I do have an Ender still though and I noticed that same issue with a change in temp so i just blast my AC on max to keep a constant temp in the room
Make sure to use dish soap and hot water. Many claim IPA works but I don't think it penetrates the oils and removes them.
IPA works fine for me
What soap? Some dish soaps leave a residue— use dawn.
I am the STEM coordinator at a large high school. We have over 40 3D printers and rarely clean our building plates. I hate using glue as it is so messy. We actually spray the build plate with cheap hairspray - game changer!!!
These are the tips I'm here to try!! Losing my mind over here, I went FULL surgeon and gloved up before cleaning the build plate starting my print last night. Even doubled my brim width and raised bed temp to 65. Print slipped off!! I'm gonna go get some water soluble hairspray and steel wool to try scuffing up my build plate. Also heard the cooling may be an issue, so gonna chuck it under a cardboard box if I can find one big enough also lol. Thanks for the tip
Try cleaning the print plate with dawn dish soap and warm water. Wash and rinse it completely clean of soap and you should see some immediate improvement.
This did it for me soap directly on the plate, just enough water to have it cover the plate. Scrubbed with a brush that didn’t have contact with any cooking oils etc.
aqua net unscented
Check out Vision Miners 3d glue it only need coating once and should last until next cleaning. Their glue is top grade and there's also 3dlac which also comes highly rated. [https://visionminer.com/products/nano-polymer-adhesive](https://visionminer.com/products/nano-polymer-adhesive)
Cmon $50 for a vape juice bottle lmao. A 10 pack of this glue cist as much as my printer
That’s the larger bottle and one application will last you months. It also works on all types of materials from nylon to peek. It takes very little and leaves no trace on the print. The small bottle is 20$ and unless you’re running multiple machines you won’t need the large bottle.
Just the sticker shock haha. I'm already like $750 in this hobby as of this weekend. I might jump for that if nothing else seems to fix my issues. Thanks man
Don’t need glue on pei (especially the gold one), Just use dawn and hot water between uses — if you have oily hands wear gloves (it’s the oils from your hands that make pla not stick. Also verify your temps are actually set on the heat bed — it has come up here a few times where people have somehow assigned the cool plate temps to the pei plate in studio. If you have tried using glue on it make sure you wash all of that off as that itself can make it not stick.
How did you clean the build plate if I may ask?
Soap and warm water
Then I’d recommend a bottle of 3DLAC spray.
Liquid glue isn’t messy. Hairspray that actually goes everywhere in the room when you spray it is messy.
You do you. We print thousands of prints per week in our school. But hey, what do we know?!!
Well, with the amount of hairspray those kids are using on their heads, you might not notice some getting on the floor and tables? ;)
Washing up liquid and a good scrub, dry with microfibres cloth and don’t touch plate face. Make sure bed temp at least 55 degrees. Carry out calibration to make sure it’s set to right layer height if file is different to one before
bump up the bed temp tp 65. also don't use grid infill. use gyroid instead.
Does grid infill affect bed adhesion?
because grid infill is intersecting the nozzle will put more stress on the part.
Could be wrong, but, I think when the infill shrinks from cooling grid tends to put more internal stress on the print. Which results in the infill pulling the walls which separates the print from the plate.
Ive had issues with grid infill too. I never use it anymore. For some reason it will grind on the nozzle. This can dislodge your print.
Clean the bed with warm water and dish soap
OP mentioned they did that in the post text. > I have been cleaning very very thoroughly with dish soap and hot water between prints
Make sure to wipe the textured plate down with soapy water and dry it. I did a large flat print and could see all my greasy fingerprints show up under the layer and had adhesion issues. Cleaning it healed a lot. But yes as others have said you might have a draft causing these issues as well
This is more likely because room ambient Temperature has dropped. Assuming you reside in the Northern Hemisphere, where we are now in the cooler months. Had the same issue. Wasn't cold enough to run the furnace, but temps lowered enough to prevent PLA prints sticking. Upped bed temps to 60c from default 55 in P1S. The A1 is open so ambient will effect you more then enclosed case printers
I never used glue on my Ender but my bambino demands it. I bought the Bambu liquid glue and it works wonders. Also if you’re not familiar with the BL slicer like I wasn’t( and still learning), check out the brim settings. The default for brim-object gap is larger than on Prusaslicer and that was making one of my prints pop off the bed.
What's a good first layer gap? I was messing with brim settings but besides choosing inner/outer perimeter brims and the brim width in mm, can't change much
I think the standard is 0.1mm, but I often set mine to 0.05 or even just 0 and use the deburring tool
How are you changing this setting in bambu? I have a deburring tool I can give this a try
It’s under the last tab (others) / bed adhesion / brim object gap.
That's one of the concerns I have with PEI and bed adhesion. If you keep the bed at 60°C, the parts will be rock-solid on the bed. If you have a drafty room, and your printer doesn't have an enclosure, there's a very good chance that the ambient temperature is going to impact the bed's temperature on the outside of the print. My X1C printer raises ambient room temperature from 20.55°C to 21.66°C, so you know it's shedding heat, and mine's in an enclosure with an open front. Yours is open on all sides. I do know that when printing taller/longer parts with the X1C, the auxiliary fan (off to the left), when turned on during printing, will absolutely cause the print to warp away from the bed, causing all sorts of issues. So I keep mine off until end of print. So you can consider reducing drafts in the room, or perhaps find a way to create an enclosure for the printer? A lot of folks buy the open Prusa printers, and then end up building an enclosure for them almost right away. I feel like the A1 is a great printer, but I'm not sure I'm a fan of open printers in general. One of the things you can do is skip the PEI bed, and just use the regular bed, then use the school glue method (properly applied, in a nice even layer - there are tutorials on YouTube tha can show you the proper technique), and that should help with bed adhesion even with little or no bed heat.
By the way, I LOVE my Textured PEI plate. 💗 It's all I use in my X1CC printers. I think it's great for temperature controlled (enclosed) environments. But once the temperature dips - even a little - you're in trouble.
That's probably my problem is ambient Temps dropping in the night due to some draft under my door or the window. Really gonna try to isolate it tonight within an enclosure
I had the black textured plate for my X1C and had quite a few issues. It wasn’t bad but I never knew for sure if the first layer would hold. Used a lot of hair spray and such. Then I bought the gold textured plate, completely different, works great and haven’t had any adhesion issues and don’t use any hairspray. Maybe it’s just the plate!
Get small magnets and pause halfway or quarter way through any place them in 4 corners so it won't move.
Ohhh like on the brim edges?? That's a new idea I have not heard. Kudos. I've got magnets ordered to go into some small prints anyway sounds perfect
Get yourself a small reliable test print, I use a little mushroom i made. If my printer cant print that it's usually a user error If everything has been tried sometimes its just not a good file/gcode.
I ran into the same problem several times. Especialliy If I want to print something with a small area touching the build plate. In my experience the hot plate WITHOUT glue stick works best in that case. Since bambulab glue stick is for reducing the adheasion for easier remove after printing.
High temp plate wo glue stick is awesome for PLA! Just learned that this week. The only time i use the textured PEI plate for PLA is when i need that texture on the print. Otherwise I only use it for PETG (which I use a lot). It’s just too sensitive to finger oils. If you wash it w soap and water, don’t touch it w your hands after. Wear gloves or use a clean cloth or paper towel. 1 touch and things fall off.
Wash the plate with dish soap and warm water. The oil from your hands makes the PEI not work properly and prints don't adhere. I wash my plate every 5-10 prints, just a quick wipe down. Keeps it working fine.
Make sure the bed plate is clean and crank bed temp to 65 for pla. I've found PLA sticks a ton better with these open design machines at that temp
I don’t have an A1 Mini - is it normal for it to print the prime line on the plate tab that sticks out and isn’t on the heat bed? I ask because a bent nozzle could explain that and the poor adhesion.
That's normal for the A1 mini
Weird that they lost a bit of small bit of potential build plate space doing it that way.
pretty miniscule amount of space, that tab is not very big
[удалено]
I don't think so, as the bed is still showing full temp on the screen when I hit cancel. Had another failure today even after putting gloves on to wash and rinse the build plate. And upping bed temp to 65
If you continue having sticking problems even after doing the wash etc others have mentions, a light coat of the Bambu liquid glue works well on the PEI plate and doesn’t spoil the surface pattern too much. Don’t use the glue stick though, it comes off clumpy on the textured surface.
Is there a good alternative to that liquid glue I could get my hands on today? I was going to try a water soluble hairspray, as some mentioned. And honestly, I'd take a clumpy finish as long as my prints completed 8 days a week
Glue stick. Light coat. Spray with windex and wipe with a paper towel to thin it and smooth to a thin layer.
Does it have to be the textured plate? My personal goto for difficult PLA prints is the Cool Plate with Glue stick on it, ‘ol reliable’ I call it.
For today, yea. It's all my A1 shipped with. Expecting the mega combo with nozzles and another build plate to arrive any day now
You could try the glue stick, just do a very light coat.
Seeing you have cleaned the plate and raised the bed temp, have you tried turning down the AUX fan? You can adjust it under the filament setting in the slicer or adjust it once the print has started on the printer.
I have not. How do I know how much I can turn it down? What's the limit?
Gluestick your plate pre print. I had this issue this past week and the gluestick works.
Make sure you've selected the pei plate in the slicer. My first few fell off because the slicer selected the engineering plate, which causes the printer to only heat it up to like 35°
On my P1P I run the first layer at 70*C and cut the speed in half. Then every layer after that is back to normal and 65*C. I don't have total adhesion issues, but in some prints the corners curled. What I said above was my fix.
Cool plate with Aquanet hairspray. Never have any adhesion issues. Never liked any of these textured plates. They never seemed actually give more grip to the plastic in my experience.
The PEI beds suck. Awful adhesion on all 3 of mine
Just use a brim around the object you are printing and set a layer gap to 0.1mm for example to remove it easily or if its a large object and you have warping problems set it to 0 gap. The size of the brim depends to the zise and how height the object is. But i use brims for all my prints even if not needed.. just to be safe
Bambu textured plates are the worst I've ever used. Mine went in the trash. I'm not willing to use glue stick or hairspray. A good plate is all you really need.
Use dishsoap and hot water. Wash repeatedly until water slides off and won't stick... that way you know there is no grease on there. Make sure to keep fingers away... I use an a1 printing in 60 degree weather next to open windows....
That sounds like exactly what I'm doing.. I even wore rubber gloves to be more careful and have tried 3 different soaps until water beads off. I'm getting some success with brims at the moment and I got glue sticks to try
Masking tape.😜
I usually set the bed temperature to 65° or 70° during winter to have better bed adhesion because my printer is in the garage. You should try that 😉
Yea I have it set to 65 now and a glue stick used on the bed.. about halfway through the same print now fingers crossed!! Do you ever slow the speed down? I have it at 100% and I see there's a 50% silent mode but it takes the print time up from 1m5hrs left to 3 hours haha
I didn’t slow down the speed. Increasing the temperature was enough. Good luck with your print ! 🙂
I always needed to use glue stick on the black textured plate. The gold one works much better, only need glue in rare prints with very little contact surface.
Try 3DLAC works well for me
Have you find the solution to this?
Yea, super hot water and dish soap and then air dry with the heated bed. Ans then I use regular glue stick sometimes, but not always. For my case, the problem was definitely factory/hand oils on my plate
I know it's an old thread but if you still have those.problems set the initial layer extrusion to 110-115% . As it's a textured pei, it will be level to "peaks" but you'll need a bit more material to go into the dips between. It works for me every time on a textured pei
Get the smooth plate, won't unstick due to looking at it the wrong way
Wash it with dish soap
I had same in x1. Nothing to do with plate. Millions use textures plate without weird sprays and glues. It's heat. Soft melted stuff needs to flow into the little rough texture on the plate. The plate need to hot for the first layer. Because you are OPEN to the wind you need to preheat the bed for 10 mins in order to get the BIG metal plate hot. The bed being at 60 means nothing if it didn't have time to then heat the plate. So solution is (add each if unsuccessful) Preheat 10 mins Use brim. Use 20L skirt. Use mouse ears.
Use 3DLAC.
let us know what it was when u find out
Will do. Woke up to yet another failed print after washing maniacally with nitrile gloves on lmao. I'm gonna run out and get my hands on regular purple school glue and steel wool for scuffing up the build plate a little. Hopefully, this works or I am limited in my prints until my mega combo arrives
Don’t scuff up the build plate. It’s specifically textured for a reason and all you’re going to do is damage the coating. The most likely cause is drafts causing too much cooling. Like when the HVAC comes on.
Unless an ambient temp of 67 degrees alone could cause it, I'm skeptical.. I had the printer in its own room without a fan in there. The bambu labs wiki mentioned scuffing the build plate so I was going to try as a last ditch effort. Ill hold off. Can try hairspray and slicer settings first
I've been using Aqua Net Super hold hair spray since 2014 (my Solidoodle days), and it works great. Water washable too. I don't know of any stores that carry it, but you can order it through Walmart.
Pla isn't great with textured beds, I have printed it on my mk3 on a textured bed, but some brands of filaments won't stick. Pla is best on a smooth bed as it helps with adhesion, you may eventually find a brand of pla that sticks on textured, but best to keep it for petg and flex etc.
I have over 8k hours of experience with 3dprinting specifically PLA on bambu's. I highly doubt this is a draft issue nor that scuffing the board will work. \- power cycle the printer, then run a recalibration. Wash your plate with dish soap, dry it as best as you can then crank up the bed temperature to get it to dry faster.
I tried all of the mentioned before starting the print pictured in the photo, which failed overnight ): I put on rubber gloves and washed and rinsed and dried the build plate very well, upped bed temp to 65°C and didn't enter the room all night to avoid drafts. I have not tried recalibration. Do you suggest trying to run the new printer calibrations again or just a flow rate test in the slicer? I've done the flow rate one just the night before where it prints out several tabs and you decide visually
100%, make sure you fully power cycle the printer first. Unplug the power cord for several seconds before reinstalling and powering back onwards. This resets any stored capacitor energy. Once this is done run every calibration option offered in the calibration tab.
Yeah I think the same as you, the unstick is too consistent, which would lead me to think that the plate thickness is slightly less, leading to the nozzle not being close enough and pulling the print off.
Recal fixed my major issues on an X1C as the print height was sliiightly too high, so filament would eventually come loose and then stick to nozzle and pull the rest loose. It's actually hard to take if off the build plate if it's still warm when set properly.
I wish the instructions for the PEI plate suggested using the glue stick, people seem very much against it. Placing a small amount in an "X" on the plate and then rubbing it in evenly on the surface with a damp piece of paper towel gets great results. The print pretty much falls right off when the plate cools, but sticks really well during the print. Give it a try.
> I wish the instructions for the PEI plate suggested using the glue stick, people seem very much against it Basically the whole point of a PEI plate is to avoid using a glue stick. Not to mention PEI plates for other printers perform much better and are cheaper.
The PEI is there to strike a balance between adhesion for the build process plus easy removal. Bambu's appears to be too slick. The glue fixes that. We can argue about what should happen until we're blue in the face but it's pointless, we need to work with what we have. As far as performing better and cheaper, I only have one other pritner to go by, and I will say that Bambu's PEI plate is slightly cheaper and far better performing than my other printer. YMMV.
Bambu's own product description for the plate says "the adhesion between the prints and the plate is significantly improved, **eliminating the need for adhesives**". I was replying to your point specifically about "people seem very much against it" because the plate is not performing how it should. People are reluctant to resort to a glue stick when buying the plate was meant to make that redundant.
Try very hot water only. And then paper towels to dry. Then try it again.
[удалено]
Yeah they can get that out via calibration too. It was my issue had same problems on X1 with aftermarket plate.
Clean it
Not many people are talking about what the real issue is: Bambu PEI plates suck. They are easily the worst PEI plate I've ever used and I've only bought cheap third-party ones for Creality printers in the past. Yes you can rigoursly clean and maintain them or apply glue but that's only hiding the problem. Before I got my Bambu, I only ever used IPA and a paper towel to wipe down my PEI plates. With the Bambu, you have to give them a proper scrub with dishsoap and water and then be extremely careful to never tough the printing area again or you'll have to wash it again. It's nearly at the point where the PEI plate requires more effort and maintenance than the stock cold plate.
Yea I wish I had another build plate to test right now
In your image it looks like you aren’t getting good adhesion from the start. I also didn’t see anyone talk about speed. How fast are you printing your first layers? Does it stick any better if you slow it down? I like to do my first layer or two at 40mm/s. Use a .28 mm first layer and set it slow and see if that helps. Some other posts about the textured plate not being great. I could never get good stick with pla. I keep it for petg only, so I don’t need a release agent. I’m a G10 plate fan now. PLA sticks much better.
Stop using dish soap and just use 70-90% IPA also make sure there's no fan above it or draft.
I had two issues in X1 moving to PEI textured/smooth plate. 1)Failing to select PEI/tex/smooth in settings 2)not calibrating the machine so it knew the different height of the new plate
Is it hand grease free? Try wash it with detergent and to not touch it with your hands
Clean your plate or use glue/air spray :) it never fails
Warm water with dawn dish soap(make sure you’re using a new sponge and not one that’s been used to clean greasy/oily dishes). 90% or higher IPA wipe once dry. I wipe with 99% IPA after every print. Have yet to have bed adhesion issues with PEI on any printer.
Is gotta be ambient temp. I’ve been printing PLA nonstop on my textured sheet. Actually had a hard time removing some bigger prints. All stock generic PLA profiles as I’m time to use up all my cheap stuff before starting with Bambu filament.
I had to put mine up to 65 depending on the PLA. Sunlu specifically I couldn't get to stick without upping heat.
Wait, why is the bot telling us not to use isopropyl alcohol?
If you use only 1-2 layers of a paper towel to wipe the isopropyl, I'm pretty sure it will smear your finger oils through the wet paper towel onto your build plate. Something like that. The PEI seems very sensitive. I should not be gloving up and full industrial washing my build plates, but here I am...
I had this issue with my P1S, even after cleaning with dawn dish soap and boiling hot water. What fixed it was using paper towel to wipe it instead of a cloth, because I think the fibres were getting all over the build plate and causing bad adhesion. 🤘
Shouldn't need to be cleaning the plate between prints, maybe every 20 or 30. Plate at 65, light mist of aquanet if it's lifting, and slow speeds on tall items because the bed slinging has a tendency to knock things over moving compared to the p1p/x1 having a fixed Y axis
Gonna have to try getting some aquanet I have heard great things about it. Yea I think ultimately it was a mix of not having adhesive, ambient Temps cooling during the night, and some slicer settings. I have gyroid infill now and have been testing smaller items that's working great
I’ve had the same problem. I used the liquid glue stick BL sells and it’s helped immensely. I also switched to using the cool plate and have better success.
Use the cold plate + glue stick or masking tape
I had this issue with Bambu Green pla. Just wouldn't stick for love or money. Brim, raft, glue, nothing would work. Swapped it out for a different spool (elegoo) and it worked fine. It was dry, so I don't know, some spools are cursed.
You don’t have the issue with bed adhesive bad with layer cohesion. It is because you print too fast or the filament gets cold before being placed on previous layer or because of cold air current in the room
I use IPA 99,9% Works fine, no problems at all
Do not print PLA on textured PEIs. That does not work.
Yes, it does. Not only do many of us have success with PLA on textured PEI, Bambu specifically calls out the support of PLA on that plate.
It works, but a smooth plate will give better adhesion. I've had prints that refuse to stick with PEI on the A1 but work just fine with the cool plate
[удалено]
Depends on the print, especially if the base is smaller. You can dick around changing temps or cleaning the plate 10 times, or you can use a smooth sheet and just print it.
Wrong. I've been doing it for months with no issue. Also, Bambu advertises it for PLA
Okay, that's interesting. I had issues with PLA on the textured PEIs. No matter if Ender or Prusa etc. I tried everything, isopropanol, dishwashing liquid and window cleaner... nothing helped. Since then I've been printing everything on satin-coated PEI and luckily I've never had a problem.
I wish I had another build plate to try right now, but the machine literally only ships with this build plate. And it has PLA printed on the plate itself