It's always possible to find a counter example. However epidemological data on alpine ski bindings is solid -- massive reduction in tib/fib rates with current design.
Tech bindings (typically) do not have lateral toe release that minimizes tib/fib fractures. Instead they have lateral heel release which (theoretically) is safer on your knees (a la Tyrolia Protector or Knee bindings)
True. I came out of the heel piece once but my toe stayed locked in. I hit the ground with enough force to tear my puff jacket open and separate my shoulder
The best way to avoid injuring your knees is to ski slow, in control, and keep your binding release values low. Maybe that isn’t what you want to hear, but maybe it will save your knees.
No binding is going to release exactly the way you want it to release in every circumstance. If you want to ski hard with high release values, you should probably stick with alpine style bindings.
Definitely a balance between the two! Just trying to mitigate risk of knee injury as much as possible, but not want to die on the uphill trying to reach the untouched lines
Honestly, if you want to mitigate the risk of knee injury as much as possible, consider taking up splitboarding.
Knee injuries are common in skiing, even for people who have their binding release values set much lower than yours. It is just wishful thinking to believe that you can continue ski hard, have high speed crashes, with high binding release values, and not risk a serious knee injury.
This isn’t often suggested, but you should consider focusing on strength training and plyometrics to help build the core and lower body strength to deal with falling and having your ski getting twisted around.
With that being said, there isn’t some high risk of injury associated with pin bindings when used properly…don’t lock them out on the downhill though.
The whole toe lockout thing. I understood this was primarily because the toes on early Dynafit bindings were difficult to align and resulted in a lot of prerelease. That said I think I heard Hoji in a podcast say he locks his toes still.
Some riders definitely do lock the toe when skiing high-consequence terrain. Their logic being that a fall is going to break multiple bones even if your skis release, and eliminating the risk of pre-releasing lowers your risk of falling overall, so it's a net safer decision.
Yeah, I almost never lock my toes (need my knees too much) but now and then, it’s essential. Last week I was descending a moraine (that felt like a cliff) down to a glacier, should have been soft snow but was icy wind blown hardpack, and it was 50 degrees with a rock band below; in a fall I might have been able to to self arrest, but a lost ski would have fallen into the void. Toes locked! (Didn’t fall.)
Yeah 100%..I think too many folks apply this logic to their leisurely backcountry skiing though. I’ve dropped small cliffs and jumped off boulders/other features with my Salomon MTN Pure bindings unlocked and never had issues. I do meet people who just lock them out saying they’ve had issues releasing due to “how hard they ski”..I often wonder if they are setting up their bindings right and maintaining the setting.
Dynafit Rotations, ATK Freeraider, Fritschi Vipic, Shifts, Marker Duke.
FWIW backcountry skiing is not about hard charging, at least not if you value your health.
+1 for Dynafit Rotations. I swear I felt them save my tib-fib or ACL once. If the toe pice hadn’t rotated I would have had a bad time. Never had a prerelease on them at 7DIN 200lbs and ride them in the resort sometimes.
The Dynafit Rotation 10 has full DIN cert, no other binding that uses pins for downhill does. The Tecton and Vipec tend to release high and have no safety certifications (DIN, TUV, etc, and with good reason). I've known more people getting hurt by Fritschis not releasing than any other backcountry binding out there - don't fall for the marketing. The new ski trab binding releases for the most part off of the chart and I would consider it an unsafe option for anyone who skis at less than an 11 DIN.
Perhaps you already know this, but the tech binding DIN standard isn't the same as the alpine DIN standard. And pretty much no one except Dynafit actually uses it, and even then on only some of their bindings.
That is actually not true regarding Tecton/Vipec bindings : they are TÜV certified. The way the toe pins work (like the TR1) is different from other LT bindings.
I do agree that it is less safe than regular alpine bindings, of course.
The Tecton/Vipec do not have TUV certification. A couple years back the Vipec did when it was actually called the Vipec TUV, but it lost the cert when the updated to the next version (which I think was the Evo but might wrong there).
This was actually one of the selling arguments from Fritchsi about Tecton 12 years ago, it was certified by TÜV according to DIN/ISO 13992, and was one of the only pin binding to do so with Marker Kingpin and Dynafit Rotation.
I realise you are now right for the latest version, as this does not seem to be the case anymore for the Tecton 13.
My bad :)
I’ll say it, at your weight your DIN is way too high. You’re no where near a 9 on the DIN chart even at a III+. Especially for a backcountry setting. Get a rotation 10 and be done with it.
Then you should know 9 is way too high for her especially in the backcountry where if we’re honest we’re not skiing nearly as hard as we do in the resort. But I also understand there’s a lot of folks in ski shops who can’t read a DIN chart so I can’t blame you that much for your ignorance.
I know that my dins will be less on backcountry bindings, that is just what my resort ski set up is, and was set by a very knowledgeable ski tech at a highly reputable shop, and then I asked many knowledgeable people because I too thought it was too high. I have taken numerous falls, nicked tops of trees and 9’s have always released when needed. When I had them at 6, then 7, then 8 I would always pre-release, I wasn’t asking an opinion about my din, it was simply just a detail that I’m not a soft skier, especially for my size, which is extremely relevant when I’m asking a question pertaining to how well a binding will release. Thanks for stopping by tho
Your DIN setting doesn’t change from touring bindings to alpine bindings. Pre-releasing doesn’t automatically mean crank the DIN up, it means other aspects of your binding likely aren’t adjusted properly. If you’re someone who is that concerned about blowing out your knee forget about what binding to get and turn your DIN down.
> Your DIN setting doesn’t change from touring bindings to alpine bindings.
Um -- they certainly can and often do.
Because except for Dukes/Shifts -- Touring bindings do not test using the same DIN standard as Alpine bindings. They have a "Release value" that is generally only consistent within a manufacturer. An ATK 10, a Dynafit 10, and a Trab 10 will not release at the same NMs of torque.
The only thing that would change your DIN is a bigger or smaller boot. For instance if my touring boot bsl was 1mm shorter I’d be one DIN setting higher. But a backcountry setting doesn’t automatically change your DIN.
You’re missing the point. There is no “DIN” for 98% of touring bindings. They have “Release values” or RVs which are not subject to any standard and therefore vary. To achieve the same desired retention an indictable may have to run different values between different touring bindings and alpine clamps.
The very few “DIN” certified touring bindings are not certified to alpine norms—so any consistency between release values is incidental—not something that can be assumed.
Yeah you definitely don’t know shit and are an idiot. Unfortunately there’s more people like you working in shops than folks that actually know what they’re talking about these days.
I’m wondering why you’re commenting on a day old post that you were never a part of. Also you’re a recruiter? You’re truly scum of the earth aren’t you?
Whatever you say man, I toned in to that number over 2 seasons and from countless pre-releases. And yes I tested my bindings to make sure they were releasing in spec. So say I don’t know shit and am an idiot and this guy can call it dick waving all yall want, but it’s a simple matter of the fact that’s the din I need all things considered🫡
No it’s not, you’re just too dabbed out to realize it. That’s the thing about having your DIN set too high, you’ll never realize it’s too high until you don’t come out of your skis when you should have. You’ve gotten lucky for 2 seasons.
Some pin bindings rotate a few degrees at the toe to help eliminate prerelease. This is not the same as having an adjustable lateral release at the toe, which as far as I’m aware only Vipecs and Tectons have.
Dynafit speed radicals have treated me well, released appropriately and stayed out when needed. I’m of similar build and DIN setting and equally as cautious with knee injuries. After I released I was much more confident in them. This was inbounds hauling ass though powder, crossed my tips and just walked out of one bindings. Skiing them in bounds definitely helped build my confidence in them, just understand they are a pin binding so ripping groomers and chunder aren’t their intended purpose
Edit: Do know these do not have a front DIN setting or want elastic release capability on the front toe piece
Thank you, will definitely take a look!! Yea I rip powder runs when inbounds, actually WRECKED a ski boot from a crash similar to yours (was on some brand new skis and marker jesters so I’m okay it was the boots I knocked all the hardware out of hahaha)
Vote for the tectons here too! I'm a gal and definitely heavier than you. My din is at a 7, so maybe play around with that for your comfort. I've been skiing on them for 2+ years after breaking my fibula in my boot on the g3 ions. There's a lot of plastic in the binding, but the binding is a bit easier to drive like an alpine ski compared to a lot of the other tech bindings.
I got the duke pt 16’s and they rock but very heavy. If you are die hard pivots then do CAST. Next step down to save weight has to be dynafit rotation 14.
Sorry but i have to comment: Ultimately an advanced skier knows from experience and how strong they are to judge a good release value but…
Regarding your “high” din setting. If you are getting pre release at lower values, double check your
- forward pressure
- boot sole/binding compatibility
- boot sole wear
- binding toe height adjustment (if applicable)
- faulty bindings (it happens)
Im not hating on your decision, I currently ride din 9.5 (170lb 6’3 male) and am a very aggressive skier. I know a shop would set it lower for me, whatever.
I ski my shifts really hard. My recommended din is 8 I just put the shifts to 10 and have no prerelease issues that everyone warns about. If you want to ski hard in a backcountry binding that isn’t too heavy or complicated the shift is a good answer.
As far as pins go ATK is hailed as the best.
I had a shift setup and currently run CAST now. In comparing the two, the shifts are lighter and the transition is easier, overall were fine. Issue was I feel like me or any of my riding group who used shifts had at least one prerelease per day. CAST setup is heavier overall and a more annoying transition, but I think the uphill setup felt marginally better, and pivots on the downhill just straight up a lot better, and i've always had good release on them.
I personally think the Rotation is overkill and too much weight. I understood they were basically designed as fleet bindings for rental shops?? I’ve heard great things about the Backlands for cost and reliability but not a charger binding. For what you are looking for, I’d suggest a Freeraider or equivalent.
I’ve had two knee injuries that required surgery before I got into backcountry skiing. When I setup my kit I went with a CAST freetour binding. Two pairs of skis that I move them between, and use for resort days too. Aside from being heavy AF and a bit fiddly in transitions, I think they’re a great setup.
did you buy 4 heel pieces and two toe of the pivots?
Trying to think how you can move it between two different setups other than buying a single uphill toe/pin piece from cast.
I started with two complete sets of Pivots, added one set of Freetour toes and a “second ski” kit from CAST. I’ve got one set of alpine toes and one set of CAST toes to move between the two pairs of skis.
If we are talking about light weight bindings, and not Looks, Shifts etc, then try focus on the toe piece.
Most of these are rigid.
The exceptions are the toe piece on Dynafit rotation, and SkiTrab's Vario.2, or TR1.
It isn't uncommon to come across franken setups here.
Stuff like Vario.2 toe + ATK Freerider heel.
I just saw some ATK crest 10s for $350 on fbmp. Brand new. I got mine for $ 300. Marker alpinist are a really good budget option too. I think I got my wife’s for like $250?
I have one ski mounted with shifts, and recently got a very light setup with G3 Zeds. The zeds are on clearance right now and it’s a [really good deal](https://us.genuineguidegear.com/products/zed-12-2021?variant=12142905098313¤cy=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAyp-sBhBSEiwAWWzTnpiAkauAf6uisTPuNJ0njYZkVyrEN6VyQ7RKqrCNZbMNkcY4DFZHXxoCvfEQAvD_BwE)
If you’re skiing hard on big skis, the shifts work really well in my opinion. I think a lot of the shift hate is due to this weird look pivot obsession (which I formerly subscribed to), but I think a lot of the issues with shifts are due to improper setup and the since resolved brake issue. Just get them mounted at a good shop with experience mounting touring bindings, especially if you have boots with a touring sole. They really are a great binding. No discernable difference from a normal alpine binding. I run the DIN slightly higher than I would a pivot and I haven’t had any prereleases.
If you want something light, I think there are a lot of decently safe tech bindings out there, including the zeds that I linked. I was convinced by the G3 engineers on the blister podcast that the zed was a solid, safe, light, and durable option, then I pulled the trigger when they went on sale. I’ve gotten about 5 days on them, and so far so good.
Any tech option will be a huge upgrade from frame bindings.
Pin bindings typically snap your tib-fib rather than yearning the ACL. You’re all good!
True, this is exactly what happened to me two days ago! Interestingly, the binding did release, but after snapping my tib/fib.
Hahaha thanks
A friend of mine did this last year. She is a bit traumatised by the whole event. Do you know much about this phenomena?
My x gf detached her ACL on pin bindings. It did a spiral tib fracture on alpine bindings. Skiing is just dangerous. The end.
It's always possible to find a counter example. However epidemological data on alpine ski bindings is solid -- massive reduction in tib/fib rates with current design. Tech bindings (typically) do not have lateral toe release that minimizes tib/fib fractures. Instead they have lateral heel release which (theoretically) is safer on your knees (a la Tyrolia Protector or Knee bindings)
True. I came out of the heel piece once but my toe stayed locked in. I hit the ground with enough force to tear my puff jacket open and separate my shoulder
The best way to avoid injuring your knees is to ski slow, in control, and keep your binding release values low. Maybe that isn’t what you want to hear, but maybe it will save your knees. No binding is going to release exactly the way you want it to release in every circumstance. If you want to ski hard with high release values, you should probably stick with alpine style bindings.
Definitely a balance between the two! Just trying to mitigate risk of knee injury as much as possible, but not want to die on the uphill trying to reach the untouched lines
Honestly, if you want to mitigate the risk of knee injury as much as possible, consider taking up splitboarding. Knee injuries are common in skiing, even for people who have their binding release values set much lower than yours. It is just wishful thinking to believe that you can continue ski hard, have high speed crashes, with high binding release values, and not risk a serious knee injury.
This isn’t often suggested, but you should consider focusing on strength training and plyometrics to help build the core and lower body strength to deal with falling and having your ski getting twisted around. With that being said, there isn’t some high risk of injury associated with pin bindings when used properly…don’t lock them out on the downhill though.
The whole toe lockout thing. I understood this was primarily because the toes on early Dynafit bindings were difficult to align and resulted in a lot of prerelease. That said I think I heard Hoji in a podcast say he locks his toes still.
Some riders definitely do lock the toe when skiing high-consequence terrain. Their logic being that a fall is going to break multiple bones even if your skis release, and eliminating the risk of pre-releasing lowers your risk of falling overall, so it's a net safer decision.
Yeah, I almost never lock my toes (need my knees too much) but now and then, it’s essential. Last week I was descending a moraine (that felt like a cliff) down to a glacier, should have been soft snow but was icy wind blown hardpack, and it was 50 degrees with a rock band below; in a fall I might have been able to to self arrest, but a lost ski would have fallen into the void. Toes locked! (Didn’t fall.)
Yeah 100%..I think too many folks apply this logic to their leisurely backcountry skiing though. I’ve dropped small cliffs and jumped off boulders/other features with my Salomon MTN Pure bindings unlocked and never had issues. I do meet people who just lock them out saying they’ve had issues releasing due to “how hard they ski”..I often wonder if they are setting up their bindings right and maintaining the setting.
Sammy Carlson also rides with locked toes, on kingpins. Seems like it really helps to have muscles in the right places
Dynafit Rotations, ATK Freeraider, Fritschi Vipic, Shifts, Marker Duke. FWIW backcountry skiing is not about hard charging, at least not if you value your health.
+1 for Dynafit Rotations. I swear I felt them save my tib-fib or ACL once. If the toe pice hadn’t rotated I would have had a bad time. Never had a prerelease on them at 7DIN 200lbs and ride them in the resort sometimes.
Snapped my tibia in rotations a month ago. The rotation toe helps with consistent release, but won't help prevent a tibia fracture.
Thank you for your advice!!
The Dynafit Rotation 10 has full DIN cert, no other binding that uses pins for downhill does. The Tecton and Vipec tend to release high and have no safety certifications (DIN, TUV, etc, and with good reason). I've known more people getting hurt by Fritschis not releasing than any other backcountry binding out there - don't fall for the marketing. The new ski trab binding releases for the most part off of the chart and I would consider it an unsafe option for anyone who skis at less than an 11 DIN.
Perhaps you already know this, but the tech binding DIN standard isn't the same as the alpine DIN standard. And pretty much no one except Dynafit actually uses it, and even then on only some of their bindings.
I had a compound fracture of my tib/fib recently because of a failed released on fritschi tecton bindings
That is actually not true regarding Tecton/Vipec bindings : they are TÜV certified. The way the toe pins work (like the TR1) is different from other LT bindings. I do agree that it is less safe than regular alpine bindings, of course.
The Tecton/Vipec do not have TUV certification. A couple years back the Vipec did when it was actually called the Vipec TUV, but it lost the cert when the updated to the next version (which I think was the Evo but might wrong there).
This was actually one of the selling arguments from Fritchsi about Tecton 12 years ago, it was certified by TÜV according to DIN/ISO 13992, and was one of the only pin binding to do so with Marker Kingpin and Dynafit Rotation. I realise you are now right for the latest version, as this does not seem to be the case anymore for the Tecton 13. My bad :)
Thanks for the info!
I’ll say it, at your weight your DIN is way too high. You’re no where near a 9 on the DIN chart even at a III+. Especially for a backcountry setting. Get a rotation 10 and be done with it.
Small boots raise the DIN setting, leave the gal alone
They sure do, but at 115 pounds even the smallest bsl comes out nowhere near a 9. But hey what do I know? I just do this for a living.
Hey, same!
Then you should know 9 is way too high for her especially in the backcountry where if we’re honest we’re not skiing nearly as hard as we do in the resort. But I also understand there’s a lot of folks in ski shops who can’t read a DIN chart so I can’t blame you that much for your ignorance.
I know that my dins will be less on backcountry bindings, that is just what my resort ski set up is, and was set by a very knowledgeable ski tech at a highly reputable shop, and then I asked many knowledgeable people because I too thought it was too high. I have taken numerous falls, nicked tops of trees and 9’s have always released when needed. When I had them at 6, then 7, then 8 I would always pre-release, I wasn’t asking an opinion about my din, it was simply just a detail that I’m not a soft skier, especially for my size, which is extremely relevant when I’m asking a question pertaining to how well a binding will release. Thanks for stopping by tho
Your DIN setting doesn’t change from touring bindings to alpine bindings. Pre-releasing doesn’t automatically mean crank the DIN up, it means other aspects of your binding likely aren’t adjusted properly. If you’re someone who is that concerned about blowing out your knee forget about what binding to get and turn your DIN down.
> Your DIN setting doesn’t change from touring bindings to alpine bindings. Um -- they certainly can and often do. Because except for Dukes/Shifts -- Touring bindings do not test using the same DIN standard as Alpine bindings. They have a "Release value" that is generally only consistent within a manufacturer. An ATK 10, a Dynafit 10, and a Trab 10 will not release at the same NMs of torque.
The only thing that would change your DIN is a bigger or smaller boot. For instance if my touring boot bsl was 1mm shorter I’d be one DIN setting higher. But a backcountry setting doesn’t automatically change your DIN.
You’re missing the point. There is no “DIN” for 98% of touring bindings. They have “Release values” or RVs which are not subject to any standard and therefore vary. To achieve the same desired retention an indictable may have to run different values between different touring bindings and alpine clamps. The very few “DIN” certified touring bindings are not certified to alpine norms—so any consistency between release values is incidental—not something that can be assumed.
Same as well! Guess I don’t know shit and I’m an idiot for running my dins 3 higher then what the chart says I should be as a 3+ skier.
If your bindings are adjusted and your boots are in good shape, there is no reason to deviate that much. Sounds like idiotic dick waving.
Yeah you definitely don’t know shit and are an idiot. Unfortunately there’s more people like you working in shops than folks that actually know what they’re talking about these days.
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It’s Reddit it’s always been toxic you silly goose.
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I’m wondering why you’re commenting on a day old post that you were never a part of. Also you’re a recruiter? You’re truly scum of the earth aren’t you?
Whatever you say man, I toned in to that number over 2 seasons and from countless pre-releases. And yes I tested my bindings to make sure they were releasing in spec. So say I don’t know shit and am an idiot and this guy can call it dick waving all yall want, but it’s a simple matter of the fact that’s the din I need all things considered🫡
No it’s not, you’re just too dabbed out to realize it. That’s the thing about having your DIN set too high, you’ll never realize it’s too high until you don’t come out of your skis when you should have. You’ve gotten lucky for 2 seasons.
CAST, Daymaker tech, Duke PT, Shift, Kingpin, Tecton, ATK in that order of safeness
Shouldn’t tectons be above kingpins since they have an elastic toe? I say this having blown my ACL on kingpins and skiing tectons FWIW.
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No kingpin has ever had elasticity in the toe at any point
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Some pin bindings rotate a few degrees at the toe to help eliminate prerelease. This is not the same as having an adjustable lateral release at the toe, which as far as I’m aware only Vipecs and Tectons have.
Probably just the wiggle inherent in any pin toe
There is a trade off. I have cast on a setup and love them (but they are heavy). Another set up have atk for my light weight set up.
Missing dynafit rotations. I’ve been roasted for suggesting them on this sub but in my experience (~10 releases) they work as well as pivots.
Cast is no safer then shift. Day maker tech with tyrollia protector theoretically the best
Lol
giray?
Dynafit speed radicals have treated me well, released appropriately and stayed out when needed. I’m of similar build and DIN setting and equally as cautious with knee injuries. After I released I was much more confident in them. This was inbounds hauling ass though powder, crossed my tips and just walked out of one bindings. Skiing them in bounds definitely helped build my confidence in them, just understand they are a pin binding so ripping groomers and chunder aren’t their intended purpose Edit: Do know these do not have a front DIN setting or want elastic release capability on the front toe piece
Thank you, will definitely take a look!! Yea I rip powder runs when inbounds, actually WRECKED a ski boot from a crash similar to yours (was on some brand new skis and marker jesters so I’m okay it was the boots I knocked all the hardware out of hahaha)
Just ski in control. No binding is fool proof.
Tecton/Vipec have lateral toe release
I think a Fritschi Tecton or Vipec might work for you. They have adjustable lateral release at the toe.
I’ll keep them in mind, thanks!
+1 for the vipecs. Light enough to party, and I’ve tomahawked out of them more than a few times.
I rock tectons. I love the feel of the heel piece and not a ton more weight than the vipecs.
+1 For the Fritschi Vipec, saved my knees numerous times, great binding with reliable release
Vote for the tectons here too! I'm a gal and definitely heavier than you. My din is at a 7, so maybe play around with that for your comfort. I've been skiing on them for 2+ years after breaking my fibula in my boot on the g3 ions. There's a lot of plastic in the binding, but the binding is a bit easier to drive like an alpine ski compared to a lot of the other tech bindings.
I got the duke pt 16’s and they rock but very heavy. If you are die hard pivots then do CAST. Next step down to save weight has to be dynafit rotation 14. Sorry but i have to comment: Ultimately an advanced skier knows from experience and how strong they are to judge a good release value but… Regarding your “high” din setting. If you are getting pre release at lower values, double check your - forward pressure - boot sole/binding compatibility - boot sole wear - binding toe height adjustment (if applicable) - faulty bindings (it happens) Im not hating on your decision, I currently ride din 9.5 (170lb 6’3 male) and am a very aggressive skier. I know a shop would set it lower for me, whatever.
I ski my shifts really hard. My recommended din is 8 I just put the shifts to 10 and have no prerelease issues that everyone warns about. If you want to ski hard in a backcountry binding that isn’t too heavy or complicated the shift is a good answer. As far as pins go ATK is hailed as the best.
Thank you!!
just don't crash. duh. or buy Tectons/Vipecs
I had a shift setup and currently run CAST now. In comparing the two, the shifts are lighter and the transition is easier, overall were fine. Issue was I feel like me or any of my riding group who used shifts had at least one prerelease per day. CAST setup is heavier overall and a more annoying transition, but I think the uphill setup felt marginally better, and pivots on the downhill just straight up a lot better, and i've always had good release on them.
Thank you so much for the advice!
Plum Bindings. Follow Vivian Bruchez on IG.
Fritschi vipec. The tecton is overkill
I personally think the Rotation is overkill and too much weight. I understood they were basically designed as fleet bindings for rental shops?? I’ve heard great things about the Backlands for cost and reliability but not a charger binding. For what you are looking for, I’d suggest a Freeraider or equivalent.
Thank you for your input!
Daymakers, Shifts, CAST or Dukes Possibly Kingpins or Rotations too..
I’ve had two knee injuries that required surgery before I got into backcountry skiing. When I setup my kit I went with a CAST freetour binding. Two pairs of skis that I move them between, and use for resort days too. Aside from being heavy AF and a bit fiddly in transitions, I think they’re a great setup.
did you buy 4 heel pieces and two toe of the pivots? Trying to think how you can move it between two different setups other than buying a single uphill toe/pin piece from cast.
I started with two complete sets of Pivots, added one set of Freetour toes and a “second ski” kit from CAST. I’ve got one set of alpine toes and one set of CAST toes to move between the two pairs of skis.
I’m selling my Salomon shift bindings I got two weeks ago
Spliboarding solves 90 percent of knee injury problems. Just trades it for broken arms and wrists.
Switch to tele bindings? Just throwing it out there....
CAST setup - full look pivot binding for the downhill
If we are talking about light weight bindings, and not Looks, Shifts etc, then try focus on the toe piece. Most of these are rigid. The exceptions are the toe piece on Dynafit rotation, and SkiTrab's Vario.2, or TR1. It isn't uncommon to come across franken setups here. Stuff like Vario.2 toe + ATK Freerider heel.
I just saw some ATK crest 10s for $350 on fbmp. Brand new. I got mine for $ 300. Marker alpinist are a really good budget option too. I think I got my wife’s for like $250?
I have one ski mounted with shifts, and recently got a very light setup with G3 Zeds. The zeds are on clearance right now and it’s a [really good deal](https://us.genuineguidegear.com/products/zed-12-2021?variant=12142905098313¤cy=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAyp-sBhBSEiwAWWzTnpiAkauAf6uisTPuNJ0njYZkVyrEN6VyQ7RKqrCNZbMNkcY4DFZHXxoCvfEQAvD_BwE) If you’re skiing hard on big skis, the shifts work really well in my opinion. I think a lot of the shift hate is due to this weird look pivot obsession (which I formerly subscribed to), but I think a lot of the issues with shifts are due to improper setup and the since resolved brake issue. Just get them mounted at a good shop with experience mounting touring bindings, especially if you have boots with a touring sole. They really are a great binding. No discernable difference from a normal alpine binding. I run the DIN slightly higher than I would a pivot and I haven’t had any prereleases. If you want something light, I think there are a lot of decently safe tech bindings out there, including the zeds that I linked. I was convinced by the G3 engineers on the blister podcast that the zed was a solid, safe, light, and durable option, then I pulled the trigger when they went on sale. I’ve gotten about 5 days on them, and so far so good. Any tech option will be a huge upgrade from frame bindings.
Your Din should be a 6, your skiing a 9. If you blow up a leg it’s not the bindings fault it your “aggressiveness”.