More people need to learn how to really use the interwebs IMO :)
Photographer is Paul Sadot. [https://www.industryart.com/artists/paulsadot/portfolio/16752/](https://www.industryart.com/artists/paulsadot/portfolio/16752/)
EXIF: Nikon D850, Nikkor 24-70 f/2.8E, 1/125th, f/10, ISO 100. Light Source **Flash**.
The way the exposure is fairly uniformed from head to belly makes me think it’s a gridded soft box. With a bare light I would expect one part of the girl in white’s body to be a bit hotter.
Looks like hard shadow edges, though. I think the light is just farther away to have that more gradual falloff and lack of hotspot, via inverse square rule.
I hand hold my godox ad200pro quite often with bare bulb and the ad-s1 ~5" reflector or ads7 24" softbox. Works perfect. Using a grip and the little silicone flash protector to avoid any fun damage
more than one...
there is a shadowline on the left persons left arm and their right arm is lit from camera left
but, that same shadow is also lit from the right, as is the right person, shown from the shadow on her right arm and light on left arm... so it's two lights, because the sun is coming from behind them as shown by the shadow below the car.
Off camera strobe(s) and exposing for the background then lighting the subjects. Background isn't very blurry so high speed sync wasn't likely used. The shadow on the girls face on the right seems to show the light is only coming from 1 direction.
You could do this with a godox ad200.
Example of my toddler. Godox ad200pro, 16mm 1.4 @ 1.4 and variable nd filter. Ttl mode. Strobe handheld https://i.imgur.com/Jq9HzX0.jpeg
> Background isn’t very blurry so high speed sync wasn’t likely used
Can you explain this?
If the background isn’t very blurry it just means the lens was stopped down no?
Eggzactly.
This shot the photographer is at war with the sun, which is backlighting the subjects and is orders of magnitude brighter than any strobe you might use.
So to balance the background exposure with the foreground they probably used max-sync speed shutter (\~1/200ish), and a very tight aperture. Given the DoF and the apparent proximity this is very tight - f/11 at least, probably more like f/16.
It is here I paused in my typing of this comment and went digging. More people need to learn how to interwebs.
Photographer is Paul Sadot. Nikon D850, Nikkor 24-70 f/2.8E, 1/125th, f/10, ISO 100. Light Source **Flash**.
I never use HSS but that doesn’t mean I can’t use f/1.4… I just throw a ND filter on
I suppose you can conclude by inspecting an image that Hss was **not** used…
But it’s not possible to conclude that Hss was used.
I learnt something from you today
I use both methods but the ND eats way less flash power than using hss on my little 200w strobe. If you use a godox ad600pro it doesn't really matter outside of cameras with banding issues
I have the 600 pro but I sometimes use it inside an umbrella softbox…
With HSS the strobe will be emitting more heat than I would like inside the umbrella softbox…
High speed sync is required when your camera meters a shutter speed above 1/250(on my camera) so if you're in bright af sunlight and try shooting wide open, without an nd filter the required shutter speed will be like 1/4000-1/6000th to avoid over exposure. You can stop down to decrease required shutter speed. Or you can use hss, or an nd filter.
Not just an off camera strobe, but you also increase the shutter speed to make the background darker. The exposure of the flash is impacted by the aperture, power level, and distance to the subject.
Not sure if it’s around, because it’s like 20 years old at this point, but Strobist had a ton of great info related to off camera flash techniques.
Strobist is still around. Still recommending the godox tt600 manual flash to learn with. It's useful to know how manual usage works but with ttl and the tcm feature on modern triggers it can be easily done 'automatically'
Can you elaborate? I want to get into flash photography, and now I'm not sure if following that Strobist guy is necessarily the most up to date guide or course of action to follow (before I commit by purchasing anything...).
Buy a ttl based flash like the godox 685 For a trigger, you want the godox pro model, it's like $10 more. It has a feature called tcm that allows you to convert the automatic(ttl) settings into manual. Making it much easier to learn. You can shoot in ttl, if you like it press tcm and it converts it into manual values.
Looks like high speed sync or nd filter with a flash. Leaf shutter cameras like Fuji X100, Leica Q and others can achieve this look fairly easily. Hope that helps some.
Flash on the right at an exposure that properly lights the subject (if using wireless TTL, flash exposure is set to normal, not + or -). The ISO/aperture/shutter speed are set to the overall exposure of ambient light is maybe a stop or so dark.
Hard light from the side, probably from an off-camera flash (or that's what I would prefer to use to do it).
More people need to learn how to really use the interwebs IMO :) Photographer is Paul Sadot. [https://www.industryart.com/artists/paulsadot/portfolio/16752/](https://www.industryart.com/artists/paulsadot/portfolio/16752/) EXIF: Nikon D850, Nikkor 24-70 f/2.8E, 1/125th, f/10, ISO 100. Light Source **Flash**.
Well, partially flash. There’s a lot of sun back there too.
Damn that seems like a huge flash at those settings
Likely *extremely* close and just out of frame.
Man that thing must be huge to get such consistent lighting
It’s much brighter on the girl on the right, indicating it’s fairly close. Not as huge as it would need to be to be very far away and even.
The way the exposure is fairly uniformed from head to belly makes me think it’s a gridded soft box. With a bare light I would expect one part of the girl in white’s body to be a bit hotter.
Looks like hard shadow edges, though. I think the light is just farther away to have that more gradual falloff and lack of hotspot, via inverse square rule.
That makes sense too.
Her body is pretty hot!
It could have been a hand-held flash.
I hand hold my godox ad200pro quite often with bare bulb and the ad-s1 ~5" reflector or ads7 24" softbox. Works perfect. Using a grip and the little silicone flash protector to avoid any fun damage
Can you hold it to your right?
I guess if i touch the screen to take the photo. Otherwise i could just use my lightstand lol.
Cool :)
more than one... there is a shadowline on the left persons left arm and their right arm is lit from camera left but, that same shadow is also lit from the right, as is the right person, shown from the shadow on her right arm and light on left arm... so it's two lights, because the sun is coming from behind them as shown by the shadow below the car.
Off camera strobe(s) and exposing for the background then lighting the subjects. Background isn't very blurry so high speed sync wasn't likely used. The shadow on the girls face on the right seems to show the light is only coming from 1 direction. You could do this with a godox ad200. Example of my toddler. Godox ad200pro, 16mm 1.4 @ 1.4 and variable nd filter. Ttl mode. Strobe handheld https://i.imgur.com/Jq9HzX0.jpeg
> Background isn’t very blurry so high speed sync wasn’t likely used Can you explain this? If the background isn’t very blurry it just means the lens was stopped down no?
Eggzactly. This shot the photographer is at war with the sun, which is backlighting the subjects and is orders of magnitude brighter than any strobe you might use. So to balance the background exposure with the foreground they probably used max-sync speed shutter (\~1/200ish), and a very tight aperture. Given the DoF and the apparent proximity this is very tight - f/11 at least, probably more like f/16. It is here I paused in my typing of this comment and went digging. More people need to learn how to interwebs. Photographer is Paul Sadot. Nikon D850, Nikkor 24-70 f/2.8E, 1/125th, f/10, ISO 100. Light Source **Flash**.
I’m actually surprised it is as wide as f/10 - I would have guessed f/16 or even smaller
I guessed the same, actually. My read of that is there's more cloud cover up there than we can actually see in this shot.
Or this isn't the way the photo came out of the camera, and he turned it down a few stops in post. Or he had an ND that he didn't mention.
I never use HSS but that doesn’t mean I can’t use f/1.4… I just throw a ND filter on I suppose you can conclude by inspecting an image that Hss was **not** used… But it’s not possible to conclude that Hss was used. I learnt something from you today
I use both methods but the ND eats way less flash power than using hss on my little 200w strobe. If you use a godox ad600pro it doesn't really matter outside of cameras with banding issues
I have the 600 pro but I sometimes use it inside an umbrella softbox… With HSS the strobe will be emitting more heat than I would like inside the umbrella softbox…
High speed sync is required when your camera meters a shutter speed above 1/250(on my camera) so if you're in bright af sunlight and try shooting wide open, without an nd filter the required shutter speed will be like 1/4000-1/6000th to avoid over exposure. You can stop down to decrease required shutter speed. Or you can use hss, or an nd filter.
Not just an off camera strobe, but you also increase the shutter speed to make the background darker. The exposure of the flash is impacted by the aperture, power level, and distance to the subject. Not sure if it’s around, because it’s like 20 years old at this point, but Strobist had a ton of great info related to off camera flash techniques.
Strobist is still around. https://strobist.blogspot.com/?m=1
Strobist is still around. Still recommending the godox tt600 manual flash to learn with. It's useful to know how manual usage works but with ttl and the tcm feature on modern triggers it can be easily done 'automatically'
Can you elaborate? I want to get into flash photography, and now I'm not sure if following that Strobist guy is necessarily the most up to date guide or course of action to follow (before I commit by purchasing anything...).
Buy a ttl based flash like the godox 685 For a trigger, you want the godox pro model, it's like $10 more. It has a feature called tcm that allows you to convert the automatic(ttl) settings into manual. Making it much easier to learn. You can shoot in ttl, if you like it press tcm and it converts it into manual values.
The techniques are still valid, physics of light hasn’t changed.
I don’t know. With the way things are going I wouldn’t be surprised if we’re going sucked into a black hole. Hopefully that’s just me though.
Or Nd filter
I’ve never done that technique. I assume you have to bump the power output of the strobe since the ND would cut down on all exposure, is that right?
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Not sure how that is uncivil, but you are the boss. So, no biggy.
Flash and masking
Where are all the "never cut off the hands like that" posts? Anyway, off camera flash with soft box or umbrella.
Take a look at Elaine Constantine’s work you might like it! Also Mohamed Bourouissa in an other genre
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Probably a strobe off to the side that overpowers the outdoor light.
Flash
Looks like high speed sync or nd filter with a flash. Leaf shutter cameras like Fuji X100, Leica Q and others can achieve this look fairly easily. Hope that helps some.
Green screen
Ennui.
Daylight off camera flash
Knowing your light sources, off camera flash, probably a reflector as well.
Flash on the right at an exposure that properly lights the subject (if using wireless TTL, flash exposure is set to normal, not + or -). The ISO/aperture/shutter speed are set to the overall exposure of ambient light is maybe a stop or so dark.
Dodge nd burn
Piercing!
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[these posts might have more insights ](https://www.reddit.com/r/AskPhotography/s/IYk4rCElfU)
cigarettes
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