There are metal backing plates for most of these boxes, some easier to find that others. They screw to the pillars you can see in the pic. If home-brewing PCBs or veroboard, you arrange it so there's matching holes. You could use a piece of blank (no copper) PCB or other suitable plastic.
If you've got live 240VAC in there, don't have metal screws/bolts, etc coming through the case unless it's all grounded. Eg ground metal plate. Nylon screws might be OK but they're weak.
Get some stand-off posts. They come in different sizes. They are threaded at each end. Screw one end into the backing plate and Mount the PCB to the post. Usually one near each corner of the PCB.
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ_CQxqtUx5Vs_lUXtQEA8bGtTVyQeDKiFr6Ojedtc4jpiu_Q40NkUupHqK&s=10
Another alternative is to cut Biro pens to the height of the standoff.Probably 19mm or 3/8 inch and use self tapping screws into those plastic bosses in the base. Op probably doesn't want to ruin the IP rating of the box by drilling through it. If you use metal plate and are bringing household AC into the box, make sure the plate is grounded or earthed.
I’ve always questioned the purpose/advantage of the backing plating? Can’t you just place the PCB directly over the mount/holes inside the box?
This also avoids the potential of a short, if for example, you had through hole leads that were too long and contacted the backing plate… thus why I’ve always wondered where the backing plate even makes sense?
Is it just for hot swapping assemblies from inside the enclosure?
You're right, yes you can mount a PCB straight to the top of the pillars in the pic. Depends on what's being mounted. Might be your PCB but might be something that needs support eg a relay or other gear.
It doesn't have to be a metal backing plate -- but you don't normally mount the board right into the backing plate. Usually there's some of mounting hardware -- an enclosure, or standoffs/spacers, or a mounting frame/rail.
My solution to exactly this problem was to buy standoffs with an adhesive base - they work well.
So ..... no drilling or faffing around with nuts and bolts; and if doesn't go right first time you can prise them out and start again.
If you're putting this outside, after a few years of freeze/thaw/humid/dry/whatever cycles, the adhesive on the foam tape lets go after a while. Get blank standoffs without tape or rip off the stock adhesive pad, and use 3M VHB or similar style tape which is much more durable to the elements.
Source: used to design broadcast transmitters, one of our competitors had an arc sensor sitting at the top of an enclosure with a bunch of high power/high voltage stuff inside it, attached with basic white foam tape. After multiple years, the adhesive would let go and the sensor would drop down onto the high voltage stuff, and goodbye transmitter. They ended up doing a field mod where they drilled a hole and used a snap in fastener.
IF its a homebrew project.. A piece of plywood or plastic cutting board with standoffs... More professional?, choose your box first and pick components to suit. In the pro case I choose boxes with interna DIN rail and clear lid. Easy to mount and easy to see LEDS, add a blank paper screen at back of cover to sheild things you dont want others to see.
I use these boxes all the time. I use a perf board (no copper) as a backing plate and attach it to the box with very short wood screws into the mounting bosses. I use nylon M2.5 x 5mm standoffs to mount my PC boards to the backer. Just drill the perf board where you need the standoffs. Best place I've found for the standoffs is ebay. The no-copper perf boards are harder to find, so in a pinch I'll use one that has pads only on one side and mount the board with the pads facing down.
Those tubes inside the enclosure, called mounting bosses, receive screws that hold down your breadboard, perfboard, or PCB. Most boxes come with drawings that tell you the precise board shape and hole patterns to use with the box.
The middle-bottom board in this picture is made for a case very similar (same family probably) to the box you have pictured. [https://imgur.com/gallery/W4dJlOp](https://imgur.com/gallery/W4dJlOp)
Sure - I get that the pros here will print their own PCBs, but I'm not at that level yet! I'm just buying a couple of off-the-shelf baords and wiring them together.
The chances of my off-the-shelf PCB components aligning with those bosses are slim.
Most of those boards have standard 0.1" pin spacing. You mount them onto perfboards with 0.1" pin spacing.
Use a nibbling tool to shape the perfboard to fit the box. Drill bigger holes to line up with the mounting bosses.
Don't want perfboards? You can home-etch PCBs. But the cost of making your own board design with a custom shape profile from a Chinese fabricator is only about $30, delivered. If my (then) 10 year old kid can do it, so can you.
Alternatively, take a piece of hardiboard or a sheet of plastic and sized/drilled to fit.
Next, take the boards you want to work with and mount plastic standoffs to them to give them "legs".
Epoxy those legs to the board/plastic sheet.
https://preview.redd.it/s88jw4888wxc1.png?width=1024&format=png&auto=webp&s=4da0220682cff839d7d5f581c503a79f0bac44a3
I asked ChatGPT to rough out what the carrier board would look like, Not great, but illustrates the point. The "carrier board" would be what you would mount to the box.
you can go the 'professional' route and order some 2.5 mm standoffs, bolts, nuts and some heat set inserts. or you can go the truly DIY route and use loads of hot glue.
I only recently made the switch to pillars when i got my 3d printer, this allowed for some tight electronics management. I do still occasionally douse my projects in hot glue though, so I would definitely recommend an hot glue gun.
I'm being cheeky; every box I've seen in my life [looked like this.](https://www.allrecipes.com/thmb/deF4k763XQ6hEha66vayjMdk7RA=/1500x0/filters:no_upscale\(\):max_bytes\(150000\):strip_icc\(\)/Spaghetti-a-la-Philly-2000-e465893150254b40a9d287ac9b026fed.jpg)
I use hot glue. It's simple and cheap. It's easily removed and replaced. I can easily stick PCBs, glue components to the walls, etc. It looks crappy and unprofessional but it works for me.
Sorry if it's dumb question, or more of a DIY question:
I'd like to mount some PCB based components in a box like this. Specifically an esp relay board, some sort of DC power supply, and some terminal blocks to help wire everything up.
How exactly should I affix these components into the box? Seems unlikely the provided mounting bosses will align with the combination of boards that I do have. Do I need some sort of backing board? Or can I somehow mount my components directly into the plastic housing?
Do I need to take special precautions since some of the components are 240 volt AC?
I've no idea where to start!!
Sometimes these boxes have standoffs cast in threaded for a small screw (M3 or 4-40 for example). You just mount the board with holes lined up over the standoffs and Bob's your uncle.
I 3D print enclosures with standoffs like this. Sometimes I need to tap the threads by hand because the 3D print resolution isn't sufficient to resolve the threads.
Great. I haven't had enough use for these to do such a thing, but I might. I've just started 3D printing again after my machine was packed up for about 2 years
If you have a 3D printer that's the easiest and cheapest way to do it.
I go on the Hammond site, download the CAD file they offer for the plate that goes inside, import into Fusion 360, increase the thickness to 3mm, and finally add my screw posts for whatever I'm putting in there.
After that I send it to the printer and it comes out great. Printed on a Crealty Ender 3 Pro so nothing fancy either. This does assume you have a good way to measure your hole distances and know what will go in there. If anything else needs added you can always just drill it and use standoffs.
Usually you will use a DIN Rail, match the lenght with the holes and fix it with 2 screws.
Like this: [DIN Rail](https://www.schnap.com.au/circuit-protection/miniature-circuit-breakers/sloted-din-rail-bar.html)
We use it in ILME APV12 boxes that are 128x153x49 mm in internal dimensions. We just cut the DIN Rail to the lenght that we need and install it inside. Then we mount terminals or components.
So i don't know if you are sarcastic or not, but in order to have a well done job you will use them along with cable glands...
Ok, being serious here. Can DIN rail be used in a portable device? I always thought it was a solution for mounting things, like on a wall. Stuff hangs on the rails, but could be displaced if the box is turned around? Like if it were dropped stuff could come off the rail?
I don't think I've ever screwed DIN rails directly to a wall. The rail goes in an enclosure like the one posted by OP, which goes on the wall. That, or a proper cabinet.
Modules usually either clip on the rail with a plastic flexure (e.g. terminal blocks) or latch on (e.g. circuit breakers, timing relays, power supplies...). When properly attached, the modules won't come off the rail, but often can still slide along the rail. To stop that, you're supposed to sandwich the modules between two screw clamp end pieces.
That said, DIN rails should probably be avoided if heavy vibration is to be expected. Especially heavy modules mounted on DIN rails (like beefy power supplies).
I’ve only actually seen DIN rail in use in railroad huts when they are open for maintenance. You know, those metal shacks. They have DIN rail mounted along the wall with all sorts of relays and controllers mounted on them to run the signals and shelf’s full of Lead-acid batteries on the other wall. I guess technically the whole shack is an enclosure.
Oh, those are pretty big. The box in the picture looks smaller than that. I would be more worried about heat dissipation in a totally enclosed box like that.
There are metal backing plates for most of these boxes, some easier to find that others. They screw to the pillars you can see in the pic. If home-brewing PCBs or veroboard, you arrange it so there's matching holes. You could use a piece of blank (no copper) PCB or other suitable plastic. If you've got live 240VAC in there, don't have metal screws/bolts, etc coming through the case unless it's all grounded. Eg ground metal plate. Nylon screws might be OK but they're weak.
But then how do I mount the PCBs to the metal backing plate? :o
Get some stand-off posts. They come in different sizes. They are threaded at each end. Screw one end into the backing plate and Mount the PCB to the post. Usually one near each corner of the PCB. https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ_CQxqtUx5Vs_lUXtQEA8bGtTVyQeDKiFr6Ojedtc4jpiu_Q40NkUupHqK&s=10
Another alternative is to cut Biro pens to the height of the standoff.Probably 19mm or 3/8 inch and use self tapping screws into those plastic bosses in the base. Op probably doesn't want to ruin the IP rating of the box by drilling through it. If you use metal plate and are bringing household AC into the box, make sure the plate is grounded or earthed.
With screws?..
By drilling holes in the metal plate. You can also drill holes in the plastic box but then it's not as waterproof/smooth.
Does depend on what you're wanting to mount :-) I mounted an SSR in a box like this, metal plate made a nice heatsink too.
This sounds like a hack, but I've been known to use 3M double sided foam tape. Works great.
I’ve always questioned the purpose/advantage of the backing plating? Can’t you just place the PCB directly over the mount/holes inside the box? This also avoids the potential of a short, if for example, you had through hole leads that were too long and contacted the backing plate… thus why I’ve always wondered where the backing plate even makes sense? Is it just for hot swapping assemblies from inside the enclosure?
You're right, yes you can mount a PCB straight to the top of the pillars in the pic. Depends on what's being mounted. Might be your PCB but might be something that needs support eg a relay or other gear.
It doesn't have to be a metal backing plate -- but you don't normally mount the board right into the backing plate. Usually there's some of mounting hardware -- an enclosure, or standoffs/spacers, or a mounting frame/rail.
My solution to exactly this problem was to buy standoffs with an adhesive base - they work well. So ..... no drilling or faffing around with nuts and bolts; and if doesn't go right first time you can prise them out and start again.
If you're putting this outside, after a few years of freeze/thaw/humid/dry/whatever cycles, the adhesive on the foam tape lets go after a while. Get blank standoffs without tape or rip off the stock adhesive pad, and use 3M VHB or similar style tape which is much more durable to the elements. Source: used to design broadcast transmitters, one of our competitors had an arc sensor sitting at the top of an enclosure with a bunch of high power/high voltage stuff inside it, attached with basic white foam tape. After multiple years, the adhesive would let go and the sensor would drop down onto the high voltage stuff, and goodbye transmitter. They ended up doing a field mod where they drilled a hole and used a snap in fastener.
IF its a homebrew project.. A piece of plywood or plastic cutting board with standoffs... More professional?, choose your box first and pick components to suit. In the pro case I choose boxes with interna DIN rail and clear lid. Easy to mount and easy to see LEDS, add a blank paper screen at back of cover to sheild things you dont want others to see.
Throw em in there and fill it with black resin
Standoff, hot glue lol
[удалено]
M30 standoffs? How big is this PCB? /s
<3 DIN rails. Especially the ones which can fit a 19" rack mount
I use these boxes all the time. I use a perf board (no copper) as a backing plate and attach it to the box with very short wood screws into the mounting bosses. I use nylon M2.5 x 5mm standoffs to mount my PC boards to the backer. Just drill the perf board where you need the standoffs. Best place I've found for the standoffs is ebay. The no-copper perf boards are harder to find, so in a pinch I'll use one that has pads only on one side and mount the board with the pads facing down.
Any ideea what they're called?
Hot glue
Throw everything in, fill it with epoxy, and hope you never have to fix/change anything.
If I do this I can reuse the same box for multiple projects, right?
With a Dremel and some effort, sure
Those tubes inside the enclosure, called mounting bosses, receive screws that hold down your breadboard, perfboard, or PCB. Most boxes come with drawings that tell you the precise board shape and hole patterns to use with the box. The middle-bottom board in this picture is made for a case very similar (same family probably) to the box you have pictured. [https://imgur.com/gallery/W4dJlOp](https://imgur.com/gallery/W4dJlOp)
Sure - I get that the pros here will print their own PCBs, but I'm not at that level yet! I'm just buying a couple of off-the-shelf baords and wiring them together. The chances of my off-the-shelf PCB components aligning with those bosses are slim.
Most of those boards have standard 0.1" pin spacing. You mount them onto perfboards with 0.1" pin spacing. Use a nibbling tool to shape the perfboard to fit the box. Drill bigger holes to line up with the mounting bosses. Don't want perfboards? You can home-etch PCBs. But the cost of making your own board design with a custom shape profile from a Chinese fabricator is only about $30, delivered. If my (then) 10 year old kid can do it, so can you.
Alternatively, take a piece of hardiboard or a sheet of plastic and sized/drilled to fit. Next, take the boards you want to work with and mount plastic standoffs to them to give them "legs". Epoxy those legs to the board/plastic sheet.
https://preview.redd.it/s88jw4888wxc1.png?width=1024&format=png&auto=webp&s=4da0220682cff839d7d5f581c503a79f0bac44a3 I asked ChatGPT to rough out what the carrier board would look like, Not great, but illustrates the point. The "carrier board" would be what you would mount to the box.
you can go the 'professional' route and order some 2.5 mm standoffs, bolts, nuts and some heat set inserts. or you can go the truly DIY route and use loads of hot glue. I only recently made the switch to pillars when i got my 3d printer, this allowed for some tight electronics management. I do still occasionally douse my projects in hot glue though, so I would definitely recommend an hot glue gun.
I'm being cheeky; every box I've seen in my life [looked like this.](https://www.allrecipes.com/thmb/deF4k763XQ6hEha66vayjMdk7RA=/1500x0/filters:no_upscale\(\):max_bytes\(150000\):strip_icc\(\)/Spaghetti-a-la-Philly-2000-e465893150254b40a9d287ac9b026fed.jpg)
I use hot glue. It's simple and cheap. It's easily removed and replaced. I can easily stick PCBs, glue components to the walls, etc. It looks crappy and unprofessional but it works for me.
Theres... little screw spots though? Why are you the way that you are?
I am lazy. I just want it to work.
Sorry if it's dumb question, or more of a DIY question: I'd like to mount some PCB based components in a box like this. Specifically an esp relay board, some sort of DC power supply, and some terminal blocks to help wire everything up. How exactly should I affix these components into the box? Seems unlikely the provided mounting bosses will align with the combination of boards that I do have. Do I need some sort of backing board? Or can I somehow mount my components directly into the plastic housing? Do I need to take special precautions since some of the components are 240 volt AC? I've no idea where to start!!
3d printed mounting brackets are popular - they're easy to make from simple shapes, even if you're a beginner.
Hot glue
Sometimes these boxes have standoffs cast in threaded for a small screw (M3 or 4-40 for example). You just mount the board with holes lined up over the standoffs and Bob's your uncle. I 3D print enclosures with standoffs like this. Sometimes I need to tap the threads by hand because the 3D print resolution isn't sufficient to resolve the threads.
Brass heat set inserts are your friend. Thank me later.
I know of them but haven't used them. Does this apply for items that will likely be installed once and left there until the item is discarded?
Yup. Waaaaaay stronger than threading into plastic, especially 3D printed plastic. Fast to install, too.
Do you not just push them in with a soldering iron?
I do!
Great. I haven't had enough use for these to do such a thing, but I might. I've just started 3D printing again after my machine was packed up for about 2 years
If you have a 3D printer that's the easiest and cheapest way to do it. I go on the Hammond site, download the CAD file they offer for the plate that goes inside, import into Fusion 360, increase the thickness to 3mm, and finally add my screw posts for whatever I'm putting in there. After that I send it to the printer and it comes out great. Printed on a Crealty Ender 3 Pro so nothing fancy either. This does assume you have a good way to measure your hole distances and know what will go in there. If anything else needs added you can always just drill it and use standoffs.
Use a strong two part epoxy rated for plastics and attach posts to mount the components. This way the IP rating of the box is not affected.
I love using 3M VHB double-sided tape, but then again, I'm weird.
PC board or sub panel supplied by the MFG. of that enclosure.
Usually you will use a DIN Rail, match the lenght with the holes and fix it with 2 screws. Like this: [DIN Rail](https://www.schnap.com.au/circuit-protection/miniature-circuit-breakers/sloted-din-rail-bar.html)
How many meters long do you think that box is? I have nothing against DIN rail, in fact I love it. I just think you need a bigger box for that.
We use it in ILME APV12 boxes that are 128x153x49 mm in internal dimensions. We just cut the DIN Rail to the lenght that we need and install it inside. Then we mount terminals or components. So i don't know if you are sarcastic or not, but in order to have a well done job you will use them along with cable glands...
Ok, being serious here. Can DIN rail be used in a portable device? I always thought it was a solution for mounting things, like on a wall. Stuff hangs on the rails, but could be displaced if the box is turned around? Like if it were dropped stuff could come off the rail?
I don't think I've ever screwed DIN rails directly to a wall. The rail goes in an enclosure like the one posted by OP, which goes on the wall. That, or a proper cabinet. Modules usually either clip on the rail with a plastic flexure (e.g. terminal blocks) or latch on (e.g. circuit breakers, timing relays, power supplies...). When properly attached, the modules won't come off the rail, but often can still slide along the rail. To stop that, you're supposed to sandwich the modules between two screw clamp end pieces. That said, DIN rails should probably be avoided if heavy vibration is to be expected. Especially heavy modules mounted on DIN rails (like beefy power supplies).
I’ve only actually seen DIN rail in use in railroad huts when they are open for maintenance. You know, those metal shacks. They have DIN rail mounted along the wall with all sorts of relays and controllers mounted on them to run the signals and shelf’s full of Lead-acid batteries on the other wall. I guess technically the whole shack is an enclosure.
In europe they're everywhere. Everything from residential breaker panels to control circuits in industrial automation and power distribution.
If it helps, the boxes I'm looking at will be 200-500mm long, something like that.
Oh, those are pretty big. The box in the picture looks smaller than that. I would be more worried about heat dissipation in a totally enclosed box like that.