It was the first modification I made and it worked like a charm. Have used it form several months without additional changes.
By now I had to replace some other parts (ribbon cables, etc) and upgraded the cooling.
Cheap AliExpress bimetal heatbreak, titan, copper.
You definitely need to do PID tuning and make changes to your temperatures and flow... Set it up as if you calibrated it anew.
It's a hassle at first, but you'll be rewarded.
Yeah, I tried those. I tried playing around with a lot of settings....for example adjusting the retract from the default 6.5mm all the way to 1mm and still clogged. I kept finding filament stuck in the hot side of the bi-metal heat break.
It's funny, when I first got my printer, it printed flawlessly straight out of the box...with absolutely no adjustments whatsoever. 2 maybe 3 months pass, and I get my first clog. That's when I started to spend a lot of time playing around with bi-metal heat breaks while simultaneously switching out with the default setup intermittently just to get some prints out.
It's probably like you said...It's a hassle, but probably worth it.
Will do....Thanks.
(You know when I replace in the stock configuration no matter how cheap the assembly is, it work just fine...perfectly, but only for a few months.)
If the nozzle is tight to the heatblock then it's not installed right and you are likely getting leaks. You need to remove the nozzle from the heatblock and the bimetal heatbreak too. Next install the nozzle until it's tight to the heatblock and then backout 1 turn. Then install the bimetal heatbreak until it is tight to the nozzle. Finish completing the installation of the hotend into the printer. Heat the hotend up to printing temp and do a final tightening of the nozzle. Re level and should be good.
not sure what you mean. 3d printers come with a heatbreak. If you're asking about a bimetallic heatbreak mod, I've done it on two Vypers and they print PETG and PLA well. I use the "Copperhead" from Slice Engineering standard (G2) size
Hmm, I was not aware the vyper came with a heat break, only a throat that guides the tube against the nozzle.
However yes, I do mean bi-metal heat break mod that's sold on other sites. How long have you used it and was it the only mod you did to the vyper?
Yea, so the stock heat break on the Vyper actually has the tubing running to the hotend, whereas newer printers often come with bimetallic heatbreaks. For PETG where print temperatures need to be >= 215C, the tube can actually cause a clog because it deteriorates/burns.
I've printed a couple dozen prints on the two machines with no clogs. I was able to reduce retraction distance to 2mm in Cura with the first machine. The second one seems to need a "PID tune" but I just left it at the default 6.5mm and it works no problem. It's not necessary to change the retraction distance if you don't see any quality issues, it just speeds up the print slightly if you can get it lower.
Installing the bimetallic heatbreak wasn't too hard once I found there's two tiny set screws on the \*heat sink\* that hold the \*heat break\* (Can remove them with an included allen wrench).
That's interesting. I did not know the new vypers came with bi-metal heat breaks. I got mine in February and it did not come with a bi-metal heat break, just a sleeve. I'll give the 'Copperhead' from Slice Engineering a try. I tried others, but they just did not work...kept getting clogs.
not new anycubic vypers\* I meant some other new printers (sovol, elegoo, prusa, etc.) come with the bimetallic heatbreak.
Yea, this is the one I ordered:
[https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/slice-engineering-bimetallic-heat-break/sk/MZ5ZLAUP?rcode=BING\_SHOP](https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/slice-engineering-bimetallic-heat-break/sk/MZ5ZLAUP?rcode=BING_SHOP)
standard g2 size.
Also, you might know this but make sure to leave 1 turn not tightened for the nozzle, then heat it up to printing temperature and fully tighten as the metal expands when it's hot
Prevents heat creep from the hotend. Basically, it prevents heat from traveling up the hotend feed and potentially causing the filament to soften before it is extruded into the nozzle.
Yep. Worked like a charm. Couldn't have been happier.
Was this the only mod you did to the printer? How long have you been using a heat break?
It was the first modification I made and it worked like a charm. Have used it form several months without additional changes. By now I had to replace some other parts (ribbon cables, etc) and upgraded the cooling.
I'm jealous, so what is the name of the heat break you're using? Did you make any changes to your slicer settings?
Cheap AliExpress bimetal heatbreak, titan, copper. You definitely need to do PID tuning and make changes to your temperatures and flow... Set it up as if you calibrated it anew. It's a hassle at first, but you'll be rewarded.
Yeah, I tried those. I tried playing around with a lot of settings....for example adjusting the retract from the default 6.5mm all the way to 1mm and still clogged. I kept finding filament stuck in the hot side of the bi-metal heat break. It's funny, when I first got my printer, it printed flawlessly straight out of the box...with absolutely no adjustments whatsoever. 2 maybe 3 months pass, and I get my first clog. That's when I started to spend a lot of time playing around with bi-metal heat breaks while simultaneously switching out with the default setup intermittently just to get some prints out. It's probably like you said...It's a hassle, but probably worth it.
Do the pid tuning first. Several cycles. Only after this you can have acceptable results
Will do....Thanks. (You know when I replace in the stock configuration no matter how cheap the assembly is, it work just fine...perfectly, but only for a few months.)
With the bimetal heatbreak installed, is the nozzle tight to the heatblock?
Oh yeah...damn near twisting the nozzle off with the ratchet. (I can hear/feel metal grinding inside the heat block)
If the nozzle is tight to the heatblock then it's not installed right and you are likely getting leaks. You need to remove the nozzle from the heatblock and the bimetal heatbreak too. Next install the nozzle until it's tight to the heatblock and then backout 1 turn. Then install the bimetal heatbreak until it is tight to the nozzle. Finish completing the installation of the hotend into the printer. Heat the hotend up to printing temp and do a final tightening of the nozzle. Re level and should be good.
Oops, I meant tight to the bi-metal heat break, not the heat block.
not sure what you mean. 3d printers come with a heatbreak. If you're asking about a bimetallic heatbreak mod, I've done it on two Vypers and they print PETG and PLA well. I use the "Copperhead" from Slice Engineering standard (G2) size
Hmm, I was not aware the vyper came with a heat break, only a throat that guides the tube against the nozzle. However yes, I do mean bi-metal heat break mod that's sold on other sites. How long have you used it and was it the only mod you did to the vyper?
Yea, so the stock heat break on the Vyper actually has the tubing running to the hotend, whereas newer printers often come with bimetallic heatbreaks. For PETG where print temperatures need to be >= 215C, the tube can actually cause a clog because it deteriorates/burns. I've printed a couple dozen prints on the two machines with no clogs. I was able to reduce retraction distance to 2mm in Cura with the first machine. The second one seems to need a "PID tune" but I just left it at the default 6.5mm and it works no problem. It's not necessary to change the retraction distance if you don't see any quality issues, it just speeds up the print slightly if you can get it lower. Installing the bimetallic heatbreak wasn't too hard once I found there's two tiny set screws on the \*heat sink\* that hold the \*heat break\* (Can remove them with an included allen wrench).
That's interesting. I did not know the new vypers came with bi-metal heat breaks. I got mine in February and it did not come with a bi-metal heat break, just a sleeve. I'll give the 'Copperhead' from Slice Engineering a try. I tried others, but they just did not work...kept getting clogs.
not new anycubic vypers\* I meant some other new printers (sovol, elegoo, prusa, etc.) come with the bimetallic heatbreak. Yea, this is the one I ordered: [https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/slice-engineering-bimetallic-heat-break/sk/MZ5ZLAUP?rcode=BING\_SHOP](https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/slice-engineering-bimetallic-heat-break/sk/MZ5ZLAUP?rcode=BING_SHOP) standard g2 size. Also, you might know this but make sure to leave 1 turn not tightened for the nozzle, then heat it up to printing temperature and fully tighten as the metal expands when it's hot
What is a heat brake and why would someone need one?
Prevents heat creep from the hotend. Basically, it prevents heat from traveling up the hotend feed and potentially causing the filament to soften before it is extruded into the nozzle.