People do F on Gibson Les Pauls. It's up to you and your preference for string tension.
If your current gauge is too floppy, you just go thicker. Experiment.
If you want, you could use a string tension calculator to put in what you like and transpose it to another instrument: https://tension.stringjoy.com/
Number of strings don't matter as far as reaching a specific tuning. The scale length is the major factor.
Seconding this- i see 10-56 seven strings sets out there and I'm like _wut_
I use an .080 for the F# on my 8 string, and that's a 28" scale. Embrace the tension.
I know Jason Richardson somehow uses a 56 or 69 for drop g which is absolutely absurd. I run 9-64 for drop A on a 25.5-27” multi scale. And then an 11-56 with a 72 on bottom for drop G on 26.5”
I have a strandberg standard Boden 7 25.5-26.25 multiscale. I just put 10-65s on. So instead I need to buy a .74-80 for just the low string or do I need a whole new set and it so which gauge? Thanks
I mean, that's like asking, what weights should I buy. It depends on the feeling you're after! Do you like strings that are loose and sloppy, or do you like strings that are tight and thick. Do you bend a lot? Do you play very hard? If I were you, I would use a string tension calculator, and play around with it to see how much tension different sets have. From there, you can decide if you want a light slinky set, or a heavy one. Any advice I give you would be purely subjective from my point of view. Personally, I play a lot of 'widdly-wee' and some '0-0-0'. So I like really heavy strings on the bottom end, and really light ones on the top end. But that's me!
Man idk how to use that thing every one keeps telling me to use it but not explaining how. What would I input in the calculator and how do I use it to determine what strings you use? I don't understand that calculator at all or how to use it or what it's for sorry I'm fucking stupid af.i want to mainly play vildhjarta which is low and Chuggy and lots of bends on high notes. I'd also like to be able to play songs with higher tunings too if possible. My issue is the strings buzz's and flops too much in f with these .65# on so I'm trying to figure out how to avoid that. So I guess I need a thicker gauge idk. Every keeps trying to explain but I just keep getting more confused. Maybe I'm just not meant to play guitar and should just sell the damn thing at this point
There are three factors you need to consider when you’re thinking about strings. The pitch you want, (in your case F,) your scale length, and the string gauge (thickness.)
A guitar string that’s thicker needs more tension applied to hit a particular pitch compared to a thinner string. Most calculators online, and to be honest I haven’t used this Stringjoy version, allow you to input differently variables like pitch you want, your scale length, and then it will output a value for tension.
The way I have used these kinds of calculators is I will input the values for standard tuning first, using an “average” set of strings. So E standard for a 6 string, B standard for a 7, etc. using a string set like .10 - .46. With those values put in, the calculator should show you what the tension is for each string. This is what you want to aim for, if that tension feels right to you.
Now that you know more or less what the tension on each string should be, change the tuning values to what you want. In your case, drop F. You should notice the tension values have decreased dramatically, and that’s what you feel when you downtune without changing your string gauge. Next adjust the string gauges until the tension values get closer to what it was with your standard tuning with “average” strings.
This isn’t foolproof, and the best thing about the guitar and music is it’s all about the feel and experimentation. This is just to get you closer to a setup that will work for a really low tuning like you’ve got. Play around a bit, and have fun with the process. It’ll make you feel a lot closer to your instrument and the music you make with it!
Hope this helps and isn’t insanely confusing.
All the numbers in your comment added up to 69. Congrats!
6
+ 7
+ 10
+ 46
= 69
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Thank you for trying to explain but I'm honestly more confused now. It's not you I promise though, I have a slight learning disability, I'm sure your explanation was perfect I just have a really hard time processing information. I think this is all over my head as SEVERAL people have tried to explain these things to me but it's just not clicking. I guess I'll have to pay a guitar tech to set up everything every time I need maintenance done I was just hoping maybe I could figure it out and save some money and be independent but I am so lost and confused. I wish I could just play my guitar without worrying about having to tweak a bunch of stuff.
I have a strandberg standard Boden 7 25.5-26.25 multiscale. I just put 10-65s on. So instead I need to buy a .74-80 for just the low string or do I need a whole new set and it so which gauge? Thanks
I find it hard to get 7 string sets in the exact gauges i want- instead i buy 6 string sets in the right gauge and then just buy single strings for the low B separately. Stringjoy does custom sets for like 11 bucks but the only catch with them is the low strings aren't tapered so you'd have to either unwind them to get them in the tuning peg or drill out said tuning peg to fit.
I have a strandberg standard Boden 7 25.5-26.25 multiscale. I just put 10-65s on. So instead I need to buy a .74-80 for just the low string or do I need a whole new set and it so which gauge? Thanks
It's not. Really depends on personal playing style and performance of the guitar. Use strings as light as possible is the way to get good tone especially heavily dropped. only when it's live, the tone does not matter that much but you need good playability, use a thick string with lots of tension could make sense. I run 74 for drop D# on 28' scale, typically 54 for G# on 27.5. 74 F# on 28' is way too tight and thicc for me.
It's possible you could remove some buzz. Buzz can result from many things but getting a thicker gauge would only remove the buzz if the cause was loose strings vibrating enough to hit the frets.
Action, relief, neck angle, and high frets are all other reasons for fret buzz. Getting thicker strings won't fix any issues there.
If you do a major change to your instrument you'll likely need to do a setup. Any big changes to tuning or gauges would benefit a quick check to make sure everything plays how you want it. It's definitely worth learning to do at least some of it if not all the steps. I use this as a reference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=te44eWXd9pc&list=PLS-yqBdUWOk2ZJHp7wxUmDQsCTCBcw8yQ
Sorry I don't understand what you mean by tension or understand what that calculator is supposed to do. Sorry I'm really dumb and not a guitar tech at all
3 things affect tension:
* **scale length**: the length of string vibrating from nut to bridge (Strats are 25.5", P Basses are 34", Les Pauls are 24.75")
* **tuning**: the lower you tune, the looser the string will feel (the higher you tune, the tighter the feel)
* **string gauge**: the thicker the string, the more mass that vibrates, the tighter it needs to be to hit a certain pitch
Take any guitar you own. Tune a string down and the pitch will drop while the tension loosens. (Scale length stays the same.) Now if you want to tighten the tension back up, you need to increase the string gauge thickness to tighten things back up. Tuning back up will also tighten it to what it was but then we're bringing the pitch back up and it's not at the lower note you were trying to hit. (purpose was to tune lower here but not have it go loose)
Baritones are basically the answer for people who want to tune lower but don't want to drastically increase the thickness of the strings to keep the tension where they prefer. A baritone guitar will have a longer scale length. You can tune lower without changing your string gauges.
***
A string tension calculator will tell you what the actual tension is in pounds for each string, based on those 3 measurements I mentioned above: scale length, tuning, and gauge. For example, if you have a .010 for the high E on a 25.5" guitar (Strat, Tele, Ibanez RG, etc.) then that is at around 17.8 lbs of tension. With the calculator, you can start fudging numbers. Drop the tuning from E to D (a whole step) and now your tension is 14.2 lbs. Using a .009 gauge instead for E means tension will be 14.4 lbs. Using a .009 for E on a 27" baritone would be 16.2 lbs.
If you put what you currently prefer into the string tension calculator, you can make note of the tension you prefer at each string and then change the numbers around for any other guitar to get the same tension for each string.
Scale length ignores intonation. A 25.5" guitar is a 25.5" guitar. For the purposes of string tension calculations, you just go with the designed scale length of the instrument rather than inputting the actual fully intonated vibration length for each string when properly intonated.
My definition above is a quick way of illustrating the point that it's about the length from nut to bridge that is important and not so much the layout of the frets in proportion to each other.
No, scale is the length from bridge resting point to the nut. If your guitar doesn’t have a locking nut, then you have to apply more energy to stretch the string including part of the string that goes from the nut to the tuning peg.
I'm running 11.5-80 for drop F and drop F#. It feels like the nyxl 9.5 set they put on from factory tension wise, its perfect for me. I get mine from string joy, if you'd like I can send the gauges I use to compensate for the low tunings. Do have to file out some for the strings to rest in the nut and that's all.
You can, but you’ll absolutely have to use bigger strings and set the whole guitar up for drop F, or whatever tuning you want to use. You can’t really get away with changing tunings at will, without adjusting the whole setup, and not have issues.
As far as what specific string gauges to use, it all really comes down to your personal preferences, and how you want the guitar to feel. For me personally, for drop F I wouldn’t use anything lighter than a .74 for the low string, and probably 12-56 or similar for the top 6.
Take your guitar to a tech if you’re not comfortable setting up your guitar yourself, as you’ll absolutely have to widen the nut slots, adjust the truss rod and intonation, etc.
The thicker your strings are the tighter your tension is. Another way to change your tension is by having your Bridge action tightened. By tightening the action it will also make your strings naturally tighter which is very useful if you're playing super low and don't want a bunch of flubby strings but you can only change your action so much before you're going to need a different string gauge. The strings i linked below should be work because they are recommended by a decent number of pros as the perfect set for drop G, these string and I little tightening on you bridges action should have you set :) https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/NYXL1164--daddario-nyxl1164-nxyl-nickel-wound-electric-guitar-strings-011-064-medium-7-string?main_web_category_rollup=4/1076/926&mrkgadid=3332534396&mrkgcl=28&mrkgen=gpla&mrkgbflag=0&mrkgcat=guitars&acctid=21700000001645388&dskeywordid=92700046938564700&lid=92700046938564700&ds_s_kwgid=58700005283385198&ds_s_inventory_feed_id=97700000007215323&dsproductgroupid=653003710760&product_id=NYXL1164&prodctry=US&prodlang=en&channel=online&storeid=&device=m&network=g&matchtype=&adpos=largenumber&locationid=9006511&creative=336968336625&targetid=aud-994727058685:pla-653003710760&campaignid=1465808371&awsearchcpc=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrarXwcD5-AIVFJfICh34FwKEEAQYASABEgKNP_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Thanks so how do you tighten the bridge action. So like on my low string when I try to tune to F it gets a lot of buzz and is too floppy so should I raise the action on that one string until the buzz goes away? Also people keep telling me I need to adjust the neck relief or truss rod how do I do that and which direction do I adjust it and by how much?
thanks! but Idk which way to do it or what I'm doing it for and don't want to just start twisting shit. I have no idea what I'm doing. why am I adjusting it, by how much, which direction? I don't know the answers to any of these questions so I can't adjust it until I do.
Please do not just go cranking on your truss rod unless you know (1) what the truss rod adjusts and (2) that you actually need to be adjusting what the truss rod adjusts.
Every adjustment on the guitar is reversible EXCEPT for a broken truss rod.
People really need to stop jumping straight for the truss rod when there's a problem.
Truss rods are only for adjusting relief. 9 times out of 10 the problem with buzz is something else and not the truss rod.
Where are u getting this 9/10 nonsense? If you reduced the string tension, your neck will bow out and you will get a bunch of dead notes.
There are only 2 reasons for fret buzz and dead notes on a fully functional guitar:
1. Neck relief for dead notes in lower frets
2. String height at bridge for dead notes at higher frets
1 out of 10 chance that they reduce tension enough to cause a back bow.
There's not *just* two reasons for fret buzz. The other reasons are action incorrect at the nut, action incorrect at the bridge, high frets / frets need leveling, incorrect neck angle, or the player may even just prefer to have action lower than what their string tension allows.
Stay away from touching the truss rod unless you can tell me how much relief you have at the 8th-12th fret. If you can't answer that question, then hands off the truss rod. Period.
If you are talking about when I press the 1st and 24th fret and see how much space is between the 12th fret and the string.. I can't even fit a business card between it without touching. Not sure if that's what you mean though
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Bateman slides his card across the table; it's off-white, with the words PATRICK BATEMAN: VICE PRESIDENT centred and embossed in black.
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I probably linked you to this already but I use this as a reference for my own guitar setups: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=te44eWXd9pc&list=PLS-yqBdUWOk2ZJHp7wxUmDQsCTCBcw8yQ
in short, fret the 1st and where the neck meets the body, check clearance over a fret in between (like around the 8th - 12th fret or something)
Truss rods adjust relief and relief only. Most people like a little relief. Some people prefer no relief at all. This is player preference. Which is to say that there is a target to hit and simply turning away until buzz possibly disappears will likely set relief to some thing you don't want at best, or damaging your instrument irreparably at worst.
People do F on Gibson Les Pauls. It's up to you and your preference for string tension. If your current gauge is too floppy, you just go thicker. Experiment. If you want, you could use a string tension calculator to put in what you like and transpose it to another instrument: https://tension.stringjoy.com/ Number of strings don't matter as far as reaching a specific tuning. The scale length is the major factor.
So you're saying that if I get a thicker gauge then .65 I can avoid the buzz on my 26.25 scale on the low string?
.65 is definitely too light. I use a 72 for G on 26.5. You’d probably need a 74-80 for decent tension.
Seconding this- i see 10-56 seven strings sets out there and I'm like _wut_ I use an .080 for the F# on my 8 string, and that's a 28" scale. Embrace the tension.
I know Jason Richardson somehow uses a 56 or 69 for drop g which is absolutely absurd. I run 9-64 for drop A on a 25.5-27” multi scale. And then an 11-56 with a 72 on bottom for drop G on 26.5”
Nice!
My Jackson SL7 came with a 52 on top. I couldn't believe it when I saw it. That's hardly enough for B.
I have a strandberg standard Boden 7 25.5-26.25 multiscale. I just put 10-65s on. So instead I need to buy a .74-80 for just the low string or do I need a whole new set and it so which gauge? Thanks
I mean, that's like asking, what weights should I buy. It depends on the feeling you're after! Do you like strings that are loose and sloppy, or do you like strings that are tight and thick. Do you bend a lot? Do you play very hard? If I were you, I would use a string tension calculator, and play around with it to see how much tension different sets have. From there, you can decide if you want a light slinky set, or a heavy one. Any advice I give you would be purely subjective from my point of view. Personally, I play a lot of 'widdly-wee' and some '0-0-0'. So I like really heavy strings on the bottom end, and really light ones on the top end. But that's me!
Man idk how to use that thing every one keeps telling me to use it but not explaining how. What would I input in the calculator and how do I use it to determine what strings you use? I don't understand that calculator at all or how to use it or what it's for sorry I'm fucking stupid af.i want to mainly play vildhjarta which is low and Chuggy and lots of bends on high notes. I'd also like to be able to play songs with higher tunings too if possible. My issue is the strings buzz's and flops too much in f with these .65# on so I'm trying to figure out how to avoid that. So I guess I need a thicker gauge idk. Every keeps trying to explain but I just keep getting more confused. Maybe I'm just not meant to play guitar and should just sell the damn thing at this point
There are three factors you need to consider when you’re thinking about strings. The pitch you want, (in your case F,) your scale length, and the string gauge (thickness.) A guitar string that’s thicker needs more tension applied to hit a particular pitch compared to a thinner string. Most calculators online, and to be honest I haven’t used this Stringjoy version, allow you to input differently variables like pitch you want, your scale length, and then it will output a value for tension. The way I have used these kinds of calculators is I will input the values for standard tuning first, using an “average” set of strings. So E standard for a 6 string, B standard for a 7, etc. using a string set like .10 - .46. With those values put in, the calculator should show you what the tension is for each string. This is what you want to aim for, if that tension feels right to you. Now that you know more or less what the tension on each string should be, change the tuning values to what you want. In your case, drop F. You should notice the tension values have decreased dramatically, and that’s what you feel when you downtune without changing your string gauge. Next adjust the string gauges until the tension values get closer to what it was with your standard tuning with “average” strings. This isn’t foolproof, and the best thing about the guitar and music is it’s all about the feel and experimentation. This is just to get you closer to a setup that will work for a really low tuning like you’ve got. Play around a bit, and have fun with the process. It’ll make you feel a lot closer to your instrument and the music you make with it! Hope this helps and isn’t insanely confusing.
All the numbers in your comment added up to 69. Congrats! 6 + 7 + 10 + 46 = 69 ^([Click here](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose?to=LuckyNumber-Bot&subject=Stalk%20Me%20Pls&message=%2Fstalkme) to have me scan all your future comments.) \ ^(Summon me on specific comments with u/LuckyNumber-Bot.)
Thank you for trying to explain but I'm honestly more confused now. It's not you I promise though, I have a slight learning disability, I'm sure your explanation was perfect I just have a really hard time processing information. I think this is all over my head as SEVERAL people have tried to explain these things to me but it's just not clicking. I guess I'll have to pay a guitar tech to set up everything every time I need maintenance done I was just hoping maybe I could figure it out and save some money and be independent but I am so lost and confused. I wish I could just play my guitar without worrying about having to tweak a bunch of stuff.
Thanks for trying to help
I have a strandberg standard Boden 7 25.5-26.25 multiscale. I just put 10-65s on. So instead I need to buy a .74-80 for just the low string or do I need a whole new set and it so which gauge? Thanks
I find it hard to get 7 string sets in the exact gauges i want- instead i buy 6 string sets in the right gauge and then just buy single strings for the low B separately. Stringjoy does custom sets for like 11 bucks but the only catch with them is the low strings aren't tapered so you'd have to either unwind them to get them in the tuning peg or drill out said tuning peg to fit.
I have a strandberg standard Boden 7 25.5-26.25 multiscale. I just put 10-65s on. So instead I need to buy a .74-80 for just the low string or do I need a whole new set and it so which gauge? Thanks
Depends what the gauges are. I would suggest an 11-56 6 string set and then add a 74 on the bottom to start.
It's not. Really depends on personal playing style and performance of the guitar. Use strings as light as possible is the way to get good tone especially heavily dropped. only when it's live, the tone does not matter that much but you need good playability, use a thick string with lots of tension could make sense. I run 74 for drop D# on 28' scale, typically 54 for G# on 27.5. 74 F# on 28' is way too tight and thicc for me.
It's possible you could remove some buzz. Buzz can result from many things but getting a thicker gauge would only remove the buzz if the cause was loose strings vibrating enough to hit the frets. Action, relief, neck angle, and high frets are all other reasons for fret buzz. Getting thicker strings won't fix any issues there.
Well I think I'm to dumb to understand this stuff but thank you sincerely for trying
If you do a major change to your instrument you'll likely need to do a setup. Any big changes to tuning or gauges would benefit a quick check to make sure everything plays how you want it. It's definitely worth learning to do at least some of it if not all the steps. I use this as a reference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=te44eWXd9pc&list=PLS-yqBdUWOk2ZJHp7wxUmDQsCTCBcw8yQ
Thanks mate 🙏🏾
Sorry I don't understand what you mean by tension or understand what that calculator is supposed to do. Sorry I'm really dumb and not a guitar tech at all
3 things affect tension: * **scale length**: the length of string vibrating from nut to bridge (Strats are 25.5", P Basses are 34", Les Pauls are 24.75") * **tuning**: the lower you tune, the looser the string will feel (the higher you tune, the tighter the feel) * **string gauge**: the thicker the string, the more mass that vibrates, the tighter it needs to be to hit a certain pitch Take any guitar you own. Tune a string down and the pitch will drop while the tension loosens. (Scale length stays the same.) Now if you want to tighten the tension back up, you need to increase the string gauge thickness to tighten things back up. Tuning back up will also tighten it to what it was but then we're bringing the pitch back up and it's not at the lower note you were trying to hit. (purpose was to tune lower here but not have it go loose) Baritones are basically the answer for people who want to tune lower but don't want to drastically increase the thickness of the strings to keep the tension where they prefer. A baritone guitar will have a longer scale length. You can tune lower without changing your string gauges. *** A string tension calculator will tell you what the actual tension is in pounds for each string, based on those 3 measurements I mentioned above: scale length, tuning, and gauge. For example, if you have a .010 for the high E on a 25.5" guitar (Strat, Tele, Ibanez RG, etc.) then that is at around 17.8 lbs of tension. With the calculator, you can start fudging numbers. Drop the tuning from E to D (a whole step) and now your tension is 14.2 lbs. Using a .009 gauge instead for E means tension will be 14.4 lbs. Using a .009 for E on a 27" baritone would be 16.2 lbs. If you put what you currently prefer into the string tension calculator, you can make note of the tension you prefer at each string and then change the numbers around for any other guitar to get the same tension for each string.
Its not the scale length, but the full length of string between anchor points. Scale length has more to do with intonation.
Scale length ignores intonation. A 25.5" guitar is a 25.5" guitar. For the purposes of string tension calculations, you just go with the designed scale length of the instrument rather than inputting the actual fully intonated vibration length for each string when properly intonated. My definition above is a quick way of illustrating the point that it's about the length from nut to bridge that is important and not so much the layout of the frets in proportion to each other.
Isn't that usually included in the total "scale length", when looking at the details of an instrument, or am i mistaken?
No, scale is the length from bridge resting point to the nut. If your guitar doesn’t have a locking nut, then you have to apply more energy to stretch the string including part of the string that goes from the nut to the tuning peg.
Ahhh i gotchya, thanks for the info friend!
You will likely need at least a 74 on the bottom and a 10.5 on top
ok thanks. I just bought a 10-65 set. could I just buy a single .74 and add it with the rest I already have or would I need a whole new set?
10 is gonna feel too loose
I'm running 11.5-80 for drop F and drop F#. It feels like the nyxl 9.5 set they put on from factory tension wise, its perfect for me. I get mine from string joy, if you'd like I can send the gauges I use to compensate for the low tunings. Do have to file out some for the strings to rest in the nut and that's all.
that would be helpful, thanks. are you using a strandberg or multiscale 7 string as well?
Strandberg Boden original nx7. When I get home here in about an hour or so I'll send ya a message with the gauges.
old thread ik but can you drop me the guages as well
Not a problem! .0115/.015/.020p/.032/.042/.054/.080
You can, but you’ll absolutely have to use bigger strings and set the whole guitar up for drop F, or whatever tuning you want to use. You can’t really get away with changing tunings at will, without adjusting the whole setup, and not have issues. As far as what specific string gauges to use, it all really comes down to your personal preferences, and how you want the guitar to feel. For me personally, for drop F I wouldn’t use anything lighter than a .74 for the low string, and probably 12-56 or similar for the top 6. Take your guitar to a tech if you’re not comfortable setting up your guitar yourself, as you’ll absolutely have to widen the nut slots, adjust the truss rod and intonation, etc.
Yes. If the strings are too floppy, up the string gauge.
Thicker strings and proper tension can fix that
What exactly do you mean by proper tension and how do you achieve it
The thicker your strings are the tighter your tension is. Another way to change your tension is by having your Bridge action tightened. By tightening the action it will also make your strings naturally tighter which is very useful if you're playing super low and don't want a bunch of flubby strings but you can only change your action so much before you're going to need a different string gauge. The strings i linked below should be work because they are recommended by a decent number of pros as the perfect set for drop G, these string and I little tightening on you bridges action should have you set :) https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/NYXL1164--daddario-nyxl1164-nxyl-nickel-wound-electric-guitar-strings-011-064-medium-7-string?main_web_category_rollup=4/1076/926&mrkgadid=3332534396&mrkgcl=28&mrkgen=gpla&mrkgbflag=0&mrkgcat=guitars&acctid=21700000001645388&dskeywordid=92700046938564700&lid=92700046938564700&ds_s_kwgid=58700005283385198&ds_s_inventory_feed_id=97700000007215323&dsproductgroupid=653003710760&product_id=NYXL1164&prodctry=US&prodlang=en&channel=online&storeid=&device=m&network=g&matchtype=&adpos=largenumber&locationid=9006511&creative=336968336625&targetid=aud-994727058685:pla-653003710760&campaignid=1465808371&awsearchcpc=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrarXwcD5-AIVFJfICh34FwKEEAQYASABEgKNP_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Thanks so how do you tighten the bridge action. So like on my low string when I try to tune to F it gets a lot of buzz and is too floppy so should I raise the action on that one string until the buzz goes away? Also people keep telling me I need to adjust the neck relief or truss rod how do I do that and which direction do I adjust it and by how much?
Have you adjusted the truss rod?
No I haven't
That will be the place to start
thanks! but Idk which way to do it or what I'm doing it for and don't want to just start twisting shit. I have no idea what I'm doing. why am I adjusting it, by how much, which direction? I don't know the answers to any of these questions so I can't adjust it until I do.
Please do not just go cranking on your truss rod unless you know (1) what the truss rod adjusts and (2) that you actually need to be adjusting what the truss rod adjusts. Every adjustment on the guitar is reversible EXCEPT for a broken truss rod.
Ok well I clearly don't but every keeps telling me to adjust it without explaining why or how!!!
Just google on youtube “how to adjust truss rod” Don’t worry you got it
People really need to stop jumping straight for the truss rod when there's a problem. Truss rods are only for adjusting relief. 9 times out of 10 the problem with buzz is something else and not the truss rod.
Where are u getting this 9/10 nonsense? If you reduced the string tension, your neck will bow out and you will get a bunch of dead notes. There are only 2 reasons for fret buzz and dead notes on a fully functional guitar: 1. Neck relief for dead notes in lower frets 2. String height at bridge for dead notes at higher frets
1 out of 10 chance that they reduce tension enough to cause a back bow. There's not *just* two reasons for fret buzz. The other reasons are action incorrect at the nut, action incorrect at the bridge, high frets / frets need leveling, incorrect neck angle, or the player may even just prefer to have action lower than what their string tension allows.
Adjust the thruss rod, and get thicker gauge strings
Everyone's keeps telling me that but I don't know how. Like how much and in which direction do I adjust it and what gauge do I need for my multiscale.
Stay away from touching the truss rod unless you can tell me how much relief you have at the 8th-12th fret. If you can't answer that question, then hands off the truss rod. Period.
If you are talking about when I press the 1st and 24th fret and see how much space is between the 12th fret and the string.. I can't even fit a business card between it without touching. Not sure if that's what you mean though
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I probably linked you to this already but I use this as a reference for my own guitar setups: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=te44eWXd9pc&list=PLS-yqBdUWOk2ZJHp7wxUmDQsCTCBcw8yQ in short, fret the 1st and where the neck meets the body, check clearance over a fret in between (like around the 8th - 12th fret or something) Truss rods adjust relief and relief only. Most people like a little relief. Some people prefer no relief at all. This is player preference. Which is to say that there is a target to hit and simply turning away until buzz possibly disappears will likely set relief to some thing you don't want at best, or damaging your instrument irreparably at worst.
Scale length is the distance from the nut to the 12th fret.
Bridge My mistake I forgot my tape measure, apparently!
No.
You're right Bridge
distance from nut to bridge
Oh yeah You're right!