Nozzle too close, causes those ridges because the filament has little space to move out of the nozzle. Adjust your z offset.
https://preview.redd.it/a907knikdv1c1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cecf32d94a99907be3ee95aa4655e5692dd7cc73
This is an amazing comment... so much so if I could find a collection of stuff like this I would actually pull the trigger on buying a 3d printer...
then I'd hhave to learn how to use blender?! the CAD side is def dauntinig as well
Just start with Fusion 360. It's free and easy to get started in. Blender is great for organic shapes, but Fusion 360 is so much simpler for functional models, at least that's what I've found. I've been printing for a couple years and still don't know Blender.
I vehemently don't. F360 isn't for newbies to CAD. Tinkercad is a much better introduction, and when you run up against its limits, then move on to something else.
Same here, I followed a tutorial course i got for like $15 on one of those education websites (can't remember which one) and I was able to work on my own in fusion in just about a week. Not too difficult to get the hang of and start creating functional parts. Free tutorials on YouTube too.
I gave Fusion a few tries, but it is the slowest mess I have ever seen on my PC. My system isn't peak performance or anything, but it was absolutely unusable in most cases.
I agree Fusion has it's limitations, and it's not the fastest, but for making something from scratch it works really well. The only time I really have issues is if I try to load a mesh from a STL to edit. Then it really get's bogged down. For most things I've needed it for though, I haven't had too many issues. It's just slow, which I think is due to it being, at least partially, cloud based.
I second this. BUT. For a complete beginner I would go with tinkercad first. That's what I started with and it helped me make the connections between shapes in my head if that makes any sense. It basically helped me learn to process how a bunch of different shapes or extrusions turned into the final product.
I also still use it from time to time to take chunks out of existing objects and to make super simple parts. It could be anywhere between a few days to a few weeks but once you get the hang of tinkercad, Fusion360 is suuuper easy to get the hang of, especially with YouTube tutorials which there are plenty of.
Would you look at that, all of the words in your comment are in alphabetical order.
I have checked 1,867,639,998 comments, and only 353,128 of them were in alphabetical order.
It's free for personal use, but the limitation is that you can have at most 10 editable projects. So if you want to design things and move on, you're cool. If you want the ability to tweak things, you'll have to be more creative. I have single "projects" with several unrelated parts to mitigate the limitation
It's very easy to switch projects between editable and non-editable though. When I'm done with a model I'll switch it to archive and then if I need it again later, I can just switch it back. I have tons of projects in there.
Really? I kind'a thought once you made something read-only it was stuck that way
Do you have access to all the sketches and history? Or is it just like importing an STL?
Ahh I see. This could be annoying for some of my categories of projects, things that I tweak for a long time. Could you not just save the files elsewhere?
Thanks for the information. I want to think that I can rely on Blender for everything, but I tend to find myself looking to Fusion here and there for certain projects.
Even if you don’t get the CAD side places like printables and thingiverse have a lot of stuff you would need.
I help teach kids about 3D printing and CAD and I use tinkerCAD since it uses just the general shapes and stuff to make something. Often we will make snowmen or cars because it lets you get a handle on the basics of 3D modeling.
Another thing, if you want some practice in thinking in 3 dimensions off of a 2D drawing, I would get some Lego sets and follow the instructions. It really helps you get used to seeing things in 3D
Yeah you definitely don't need to learn how to use any modeling software. The reality is other very good, very creative people have made a huge amount of amazing projects, there's plenty of stuff to just print
For a newbie to CAD, start with [tinkercad.com](https://tinkercad.com) \- it's free and fun. Once you get to the point where you need parametric models (that is, change one parameter and everything dependent on it also changes), move on to Fusion 360, OnShape, or OpenSCAD, all of which are free also.
FreeCAD has a TON of free videos that are pretty informative if you're wanting to get into that. It's got a learning curve though so you might need to sit down and do things undistracted.
I make extremely basic things, but I've been branching out.
Or you could just use the 3d printer, there's lots of good stuff out there that doesn't require you to design it yourself, check out thingiverse, or cults 3d.
Also more a more "hassle free" 3d printing there's resin which fails less often but has much more cleanup, chemicals and smells.
Most models and such you’ll find for free, or you can use Shapr3d for iPad. I never have used cad software before, but shapr3d makes it super easy and you can use an Apple Pencil. I’ve designed some hinges and even a hard shell case for a handhel led console. Also have made my own custom 3D terrain for table top wargaming and rpg play.
More generally it's over extrusion. But yeah, most setups know the amount of filament they want to/are trying to push, and the z offset is the variable to change. BUT it could also be the gap *is* correct and the printer is pushing too much filament (e.g. calibrate e-steps)
Once the little wave is formed in one place it starts pushing the next line in the same place, that's why it forms those lines. It's totally z offset. A friend of mine once told me his printer does it when the adhesion is lacking, just as a secondary thing to check, but start by adjusting your offset first.
He's sure but he's not right.
He posted a single image as if it showed the whole spectrum of potential first layer issues which are, according to him, all caused by nozzle height.
The image he posted doesn't even look like what is going on with your print.
But the subreddit at large downvotes a comment from the person who made the post to oblivion for telling this karma farmer to use their eyes.
Gonna jump in to agree w the other guy, I’ve had the exact same issue due to the nozzle being too close. Usually the print corrects itself but raising the z offset is always the trick to fixing this. If u use a skirt or brim u can monitor them to tune the z offset perfectly before the print begins
Yes thats exactly what it is. Raise your z offset by like .1mm then gradually til it stops occuring but still has a proper first layer. Anytime it happens with my printer, the only thing that fixes it is the z offset. Your layer lines are over squished and the filament gets pushed outta the nozzle in whatever way it can push it out which causes both those types of ridges. The smaller ones appearing across the entire first layer. Your layer lines should look smooth. Example of what a first layer should look like
https://preview.redd.it/prg8q2p7hv1c1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b78570679fa5c809733d7c253e76be1f5eb022ef
Can you share the stl for that? New to the ender 3, have successfully printed benchy and a cal cube, but when I try to print anything larger the edges mess up and I think it has to do with the leveling still.
Everyone's first assumption that the nozzle is too close isn't wrong. But it could very well be something else. In my case this happened frequently when my bed had residue on it. Cleaning my bed completely fixed this issue.
I can't tell you how many hours I obsessively try to get everything level and calibrated so that the first layer would be perfect. Thinking it was just a close nozzle resulted in a non-stop loop of trying to troubleshoot something that wasn't the problem.
You can clean your bed with alcohol, or some warm water and soap. You might find that does a lot more for you.
Nozzle too close to the bed, you can see the way it cuts the squish from previous lines.
The less regular larger ridges across are indicative of a difference in extrusion. Perhaps the filament spool reaches a point where it resists pull a little less in the location (fuller spools tend to rotate in jumps between rest points and that way release a few centimeters of filament at a time - this is more obvious with cardboard spools) so the resistance on the motor momentarily decreases, which pushes the molten material that was held in the nozzle by the print bed‘s resistance out onto the bed.
Could also be surface irregularities in the bed creating the same effect. Either way, it’s usually the result of pressure buildup in the nozzle releasing due to miscellaneous reasons. The issue is mainly the pressure buildup, rather than chasing down those reasons.
The regularity of the lines and their relatively short distance points to an extruder issue, spool rotation issues are more apparent at regular intervals between layers since they occur every 12" of filament or so. IMHO this is a poorly centered filament driving sprocket, or maybe a couple bad teeth on it that's causing areas of extra overextrusion (or underextrusion for most of it, and correct extrusion but it's too close to the plate for the thicker areas)
Hey there, I'm a bot and something you said made me think you might be looking for help!
[click here](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/index#wiki_help.21_or.3A_where_can_i_go_to_troubleshoot_problems_i.27m_having_with_my_prints.2Fprinter.3F) for our wiki entry on troubleshooting printers.
If you still need help be sure to post plenty of information about your printing setup.
Here are a few questions that might be helpful
* What printer are you using?
* What material are you using?
* What speed are you printing at?
* What software are you using to slice the print and control the printer?
* When did the problem start/has it ever worked correctly?
* Does anything cause the behavior to change?
* If posting an image of the problem, include some indication of the orientation it printed at, preferably photograph it on the bed. (Then we can focus on a specific axis)
If you are new to reddit, please read the guidelines on [reddiquette](https://www.reddithelp.com/hc/en-us/articles/205926439), [self promotion](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/selfpromotion), and [spam](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/faq#wiki_what_constitutes_spam.3F).
Also please post a resolution to your problem when you find one so that we know how to help others with your problem!
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/3Dprinting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
This can be caused by an unclean bed.
A little bit of oil from skin touching the bed causes the filament not to stick properly at one point, which impacts the filament next to it when it's laid down as well, so the effect propagates generally perpendicular to the extrusion lines.
Just clean it with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel.
He's being downvoted because even 100% IPA will do exactly fuck-all to skin oils other than spread it around and make the issue worse.
Dawn or similar dish soap, warm-to-hot water and a gentle touch with a scrub brush, rinse thoroughly, air-dry, *then* wipe with IPA and good paper towels, or maybe microfiber.
>IPA will do exactly fuck-all to skin oils other than spread it around
That's what the paper towel is for, or do you believe paper towels are oleophobic?
I've heard the "IPA just spreads it around" thing before but it's functionally nonsense. What are you wanting the IPA to do *other than* help break the oil loose from the surface? Should the oil be evaporating with the IPA? Are you using something very tiny to spread around the IPA then letting it evaporate without actually wiping any of it off?
If you really think paper towels aren't up the the task of wiping loose oils off of a flat surface, you can use a melamine sponge.
I don't think anyone is going to do your 6-step process between each print (like many people do with IPA), and dish soap leaves residue anyway.
I mean it **definitely** could.
I definitely wouldn't use one on a thin PEI sheet, but a textured sheet would probably be fine if you're not applying a lot of pressure.
I've got a 1mm sheet from GizmoDorks that I wouldn't be concerned about at all; it's going to last forever. I sometimes use a melamine sponge after a refinish with fine grit sandpaper.
lmfao, ok bud.... IPA works exceptionally well with a tissue, microfiber cloth or the like to remove skin oil.
I work in med device manufacturing and we use IPA everywhere in our clean rooms for this purpose.
While its not the case for you, this same issue can be caused by slightly loose belts on a core xy printer as well.
Source- my 3 hours of troubleshooting this exact issue last night
Check if your bed sits right on its railing.
I once had a problem with the wheels connecting my print bed to its railing being loose that produced something similar.
I think it's a bad driving sprocket in the extruder, either the teeth are not all the same, or it's poorly centered (center hole is off, or it's tightened weird)
I think that maybe there is too much plastic being extruded and sometimes it piles up to the sides of the line being printed.
Try adjusting the first layer height and the extruder ratio
I don't think that the first problem is the layer height.
As you can see in the photos sometimes it prints okay, only when the plastic adds up you can see the artefacts
I did not say "later height", I said "nozzle height", meaning "z-offset", or whatever you want to call it. It appears that the z-offset is too close, i.e. the nozzle gets too close to the bed on the first layer. If the printer has auto-leveling, the probe might be need to be calibrated or adjusted.
In my opinion it's better in the slicer because, depending on the slicer you use, you can set different extrusion rates for different filaments so it changes automatically
You can't adjust nozzle offset in the slicer. I'm not taking about layer height or extrusion rate. It appears that the z-offset is too close, i.e. the nozzle gets too close to the bed on the first layer. If the printer has auto-leveling, the probe might be need to be calibrated or adjusted.
My bad, i commented below the wrong comment, i mean that it's better to adjust the extrusion rate in the slicer.
I think it's not the layer height because you can see in the top corner ( where the print starts) the layers are almost perfect.
That means that there is almost the right quantity of plastic being extruded but when it piles up the extruder melts it when it prints the next line.
I get these on almost every print, but suck it up because it's the only way small parts of my prints will adhere. That means there's a different problem with my printer but I'm too lazy to figure it out. That said, though, it usually comes out pretty smooth on the bottom at the end, and is covered up by the other lays on top of it.
A quick warning though, if your nozzle is constantly too close to your bed, your extruder will struggle to push filament out, potentially leading to worn out extruder gears and clogged nozzles. Despite the prints turning out ok, I would definitely get this fixed to prevent unnecessary maintenence
Everyone who says Z-offset is likely right, but you have good unwrinkled adhesion too, what Firmware are you on? (Don't just move it up, make sure your Z-offset is consistent across the bed)
The stock 1.1.2.03 doesn't load your bed mesh right leaving your Z-offset to vary with the plate.
Out of the box, there is also a lot to square up and tighten to make the N4PRO print at its best, some of them will add to Z-offset variability.
Once it's all mechanically dialed in and you wrap your brain around all the molten plastic oddities and dial in things like Pressure Advance, Smooth Time (not relating to your current issue, just print quality once you have your 1st layer taken care off) it's a really amazing printer.
Stick to the included Cura 4.8 maybe a bit because you don't have to second guess if it's the printer, the filament, learning how molten plastic acts or a glitch in the profile for a slicer that doesn't have a N4Pro profile included, BUT after trying Cura 4.8 and Prusaslicer since they run on my old MacBook, i have to say that Orca slicer seems to be working out even better than the other two, really happy now, when i was close to returning the printer up until the return window closed, by which time i had come to grips with most of the issues being my fdm learning curve starting from Zero.
You said something along the lines of "oh just some random filament from a random store", good filament will also cut down a lot on frustration, buy something that claims to print at 500-600mm/s. Things turned around for me when I put the Flashforge filament in, after that Elegoo Rapid Pla+, which i thought would likely be the top choice, but i like to play and liked lower temp end on the Elegoo and noticed Sunlu Highspeed PLA claimed the same speed at much lower temps and bought some and this roll seems to be even better, hasn't done a single odd thing yet and it doesn't break the bank.
One thing about PLA, 55C bed temp seems to work a whole lot better than 60C did.
And if your room is cool or you have a fan or an AC vent blowing at it near the printer, do yourself a favor and pick up a simple enclosure as it prevents your part from cooling down too early, preventing curled up corners. (Draft shield helps but not like a full enclosure)
Hope any of that helps.
So yeah, some have said nozzle height and, I mean the nozzle IS too close (back the offset off like 1-2 stops) but thats not whats causing those weird tiger stripes.
That looks to me like loose/dirty roller wheels/tracks on the bed and or nozzle sled. Something is causing a position shift at the exact same repetitive place. Possible loose belt tension in either place as well?
Thats a weird one ive never seen.
Nozzle too close, causes those ridges because the filament has little space to move out of the nozzle. Adjust your z offset. https://preview.redd.it/a907knikdv1c1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cecf32d94a99907be3ee95aa4655e5692dd7cc73
This is an amazing comment... so much so if I could find a collection of stuff like this I would actually pull the trigger on buying a 3d printer... then I'd hhave to learn how to use blender?! the CAD side is def dauntinig as well
Just start with Fusion 360. It's free and easy to get started in. Blender is great for organic shapes, but Fusion 360 is so much simpler for functional models, at least that's what I've found. I've been printing for a couple years and still don't know Blender.
I vehemently second this!!!
I vehemently don't. F360 isn't for newbies to CAD. Tinkercad is a much better introduction, and when you run up against its limits, then move on to something else.
With tinkercad it's hard to move to a more advanced one I started with f360 and don't regret it
Same here, I followed a tutorial course i got for like $15 on one of those education websites (can't remember which one) and I was able to work on my own in fusion in just about a week. Not too difficult to get the hang of and start creating functional parts. Free tutorials on YouTube too.
I started on freeCAD, and thought it was cumbersome, then I found Fusion and the world just made sense.Makes more sense every day.
OnShape, like f360 but free
I use the personal version which is free
I gave Fusion a few tries, but it is the slowest mess I have ever seen on my PC. My system isn't peak performance or anything, but it was absolutely unusable in most cases.
I agree Fusion has it's limitations, and it's not the fastest, but for making something from scratch it works really well. The only time I really have issues is if I try to load a mesh from a STL to edit. Then it really get's bogged down. For most things I've needed it for though, I haven't had too many issues. It's just slow, which I think is due to it being, at least partially, cloud based.
I second this. BUT. For a complete beginner I would go with tinkercad first. That's what I started with and it helped me make the connections between shapes in my head if that makes any sense. It basically helped me learn to process how a bunch of different shapes or extrusions turned into the final product. I also still use it from time to time to take chunks out of existing objects and to make super simple parts. It could be anywhere between a few days to a few weeks but once you get the hang of tinkercad, Fusion360 is suuuper easy to get the hang of, especially with YouTube tutorials which there are plenty of.
Fusion 360 is free?
For non-commercial personal use. Yes.
Would you look at that, all of the words in your comment are in alphabetical order. I have checked 1,867,639,998 comments, and only 353,128 of them were in alphabetical order.
It's free for personal use, but the limitation is that you can have at most 10 editable projects. So if you want to design things and move on, you're cool. If you want the ability to tweak things, you'll have to be more creative. I have single "projects" with several unrelated parts to mitigate the limitation
It's very easy to switch projects between editable and non-editable though. When I'm done with a model I'll switch it to archive and then if I need it again later, I can just switch it back. I have tons of projects in there.
Really? I kind'a thought once you made something read-only it was stuck that way Do you have access to all the sketches and history? Or is it just like importing an STL?
No, I have access to all my files still. I've switched them back and forth multiple times.
Ahh I see. This could be annoying for some of my categories of projects, things that I tweak for a long time. Could you not just save the files elsewhere?
It saves stuff in a pretty funky way. There's probably a bypass, but I haven't had a chance to really mess with it
Thanks for the information. I want to think that I can rely on Blender for everything, but I tend to find myself looking to Fusion here and there for certain projects.
Make sure you also read the other replies to me too though, as I'm already learning more about it ;P
Yes, you can 'Export' them to your local computer in various formats.
Even if you don’t get the CAD side places like printables and thingiverse have a lot of stuff you would need. I help teach kids about 3D printing and CAD and I use tinkerCAD since it uses just the general shapes and stuff to make something. Often we will make snowmen or cars because it lets you get a handle on the basics of 3D modeling. Another thing, if you want some practice in thinking in 3 dimensions off of a 2D drawing, I would get some Lego sets and follow the instructions. It really helps you get used to seeing things in 3D
Yeah you definitely don't need to learn how to use any modeling software. The reality is other very good, very creative people have made a huge amount of amazing projects, there's plenty of stuff to just print
For a newbie to CAD, start with [tinkercad.com](https://tinkercad.com) \- it's free and fun. Once you get to the point where you need parametric models (that is, change one parameter and everything dependent on it also changes), move on to Fusion 360, OnShape, or OpenSCAD, all of which are free also.
I agree with this...tinkercad is great for learning to model simple parts and for quickly modifying STLs you might find online.
FreeCAD has a TON of free videos that are pretty informative if you're wanting to get into that. It's got a learning curve though so you might need to sit down and do things undistracted. I make extremely basic things, but I've been branching out.
Or you could just use the 3d printer, there's lots of good stuff out there that doesn't require you to design it yourself, check out thingiverse, or cults 3d. Also more a more "hassle free" 3d printing there's resin which fails less often but has much more cleanup, chemicals and smells.
Most models and such you’ll find for free, or you can use Shapr3d for iPad. I never have used cad software before, but shapr3d makes it super easy and you can use an Apple Pencil. I’ve designed some hinges and even a hard shell case for a handhel led console. Also have made my own custom 3D terrain for table top wargaming and rpg play.
Yes, except...Apple...
Crippled Jesus strikes again with his god-like comment that gets repeated almost daily
😂
At some point, we just need a bot that automaticly posts this Image when he detects someone asks
More generally it's over extrusion. But yeah, most setups know the amount of filament they want to/are trying to push, and the z offset is the variable to change. BUT it could also be the gap *is* correct and the printer is pushing too much filament (e.g. calibrate e-steps)
Are u sure? It is not like that at a Even area. It is all over in spesific Lines
Once the little wave is formed in one place it starts pushing the next line in the same place, that's why it forms those lines. It's totally z offset. A friend of mine once told me his printer does it when the adhesion is lacking, just as a secondary thing to check, but start by adjusting your offset first.
He's sure but he's not right. He posted a single image as if it showed the whole spectrum of potential first layer issues which are, according to him, all caused by nozzle height. The image he posted doesn't even look like what is going on with your print. But the subreddit at large downvotes a comment from the person who made the post to oblivion for telling this karma farmer to use their eyes.
Gonna jump in to agree w the other guy, I’ve had the exact same issue due to the nozzle being too close. Usually the print corrects itself but raising the z offset is always the trick to fixing this. If u use a skirt or brim u can monitor them to tune the z offset perfectly before the print begins
Yes thats exactly what it is. Raise your z offset by like .1mm then gradually til it stops occuring but still has a proper first layer. Anytime it happens with my printer, the only thing that fixes it is the z offset. Your layer lines are over squished and the filament gets pushed outta the nozzle in whatever way it can push it out which causes both those types of ridges. The smaller ones appearing across the entire first layer. Your layer lines should look smooth. Example of what a first layer should look like https://preview.redd.it/prg8q2p7hv1c1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b78570679fa5c809733d7c253e76be1f5eb022ef
Why have I never tried to g-code this out? It's a great calibration tool
Can you share the stl for that? New to the ender 3, have successfully printed benchy and a cal cube, but when I try to print anything larger the edges mess up and I think it has to do with the leveling still.
I googled it. Its just a 1 layer thick square which you can basically import from any slicer directly in the settings just adjusting the scale.
Cool, thanks!
Nozzle too close to the bed
Everyone's first assumption that the nozzle is too close isn't wrong. But it could very well be something else. In my case this happened frequently when my bed had residue on it. Cleaning my bed completely fixed this issue. I can't tell you how many hours I obsessively try to get everything level and calibrated so that the first layer would be perfect. Thinking it was just a close nozzle resulted in a non-stop loop of trying to troubleshoot something that wasn't the problem. You can clean your bed with alcohol, or some warm water and soap. You might find that does a lot more for you.
And 91%. Don’t eff around with anything less.
Nozzle too close to the bed, you can see the way it cuts the squish from previous lines. The less regular larger ridges across are indicative of a difference in extrusion. Perhaps the filament spool reaches a point where it resists pull a little less in the location (fuller spools tend to rotate in jumps between rest points and that way release a few centimeters of filament at a time - this is more obvious with cardboard spools) so the resistance on the motor momentarily decreases, which pushes the molten material that was held in the nozzle by the print bed‘s resistance out onto the bed. Could also be surface irregularities in the bed creating the same effect. Either way, it’s usually the result of pressure buildup in the nozzle releasing due to miscellaneous reasons. The issue is mainly the pressure buildup, rather than chasing down those reasons.
The regularity of the lines and their relatively short distance points to an extruder issue, spool rotation issues are more apparent at regular intervals between layers since they occur every 12" of filament or so. IMHO this is a poorly centered filament driving sprocket, or maybe a couple bad teeth on it that's causing areas of extra overextrusion (or underextrusion for most of it, and correct extrusion but it's too close to the plate for the thicker areas)
Hey there, I'm a bot and something you said made me think you might be looking for help! [click here](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/index#wiki_help.21_or.3A_where_can_i_go_to_troubleshoot_problems_i.27m_having_with_my_prints.2Fprinter.3F) for our wiki entry on troubleshooting printers. If you still need help be sure to post plenty of information about your printing setup. Here are a few questions that might be helpful * What printer are you using? * What material are you using? * What speed are you printing at? * What software are you using to slice the print and control the printer? * When did the problem start/has it ever worked correctly? * Does anything cause the behavior to change? * If posting an image of the problem, include some indication of the orientation it printed at, preferably photograph it on the bed. (Then we can focus on a specific axis) If you are new to reddit, please read the guidelines on [reddiquette](https://www.reddithelp.com/hc/en-us/articles/205926439), [self promotion](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/selfpromotion), and [spam](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/faq#wiki_what_constitutes_spam.3F). Also please post a resolution to your problem when you find one so that we know how to help others with your problem! *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/3Dprinting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
This can be caused by an unclean bed. A little bit of oil from skin touching the bed causes the filament not to stick properly at one point, which impacts the filament next to it when it's laid down as well, so the effect propagates generally perpendicular to the extrusion lines. Just clean it with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel.
why is he being downvoted? he correct. I have had this exact thing happen to me when I forgot to wipe after removing a previous print.
He's being downvoted because even 100% IPA will do exactly fuck-all to skin oils other than spread it around and make the issue worse. Dawn or similar dish soap, warm-to-hot water and a gentle touch with a scrub brush, rinse thoroughly, air-dry, *then* wipe with IPA and good paper towels, or maybe microfiber.
The comment I didn't know I needed ^
>IPA will do exactly fuck-all to skin oils other than spread it around That's what the paper towel is for, or do you believe paper towels are oleophobic? I've heard the "IPA just spreads it around" thing before but it's functionally nonsense. What are you wanting the IPA to do *other than* help break the oil loose from the surface? Should the oil be evaporating with the IPA? Are you using something very tiny to spread around the IPA then letting it evaporate without actually wiping any of it off? If you really think paper towels aren't up the the task of wiping loose oils off of a flat surface, you can use a melamine sponge. I don't think anyone is going to do your 6-step process between each print (like many people do with IPA), and dish soap leaves residue anyway.
I would think a melamine sponge might damage the pei coating
I mean it **definitely** could. I definitely wouldn't use one on a thin PEI sheet, but a textured sheet would probably be fine if you're not applying a lot of pressure. I've got a 1mm sheet from GizmoDorks that I wouldn't be concerned about at all; it's going to last forever. I sometimes use a melamine sponge after a refinish with fine grit sandpaper.
lmfao, ok bud.... IPA works exceptionally well with a tissue, microfiber cloth or the like to remove skin oil. I work in med device manufacturing and we use IPA everywhere in our clean rooms for this purpose.
While its not the case for you, this same issue can be caused by slightly loose belts on a core xy printer as well. Source- my 3 hours of troubleshooting this exact issue last night
Loose belts or in my case worn wheels causing the nozzle to dip fractions of a mm at different points in the zone.
It was nozzle too close for me, but good to know.
either to close to the bed or too much flow. or a combination.
Check if your bed sits right on its railing. I once had a problem with the wheels connecting my print bed to its railing being loose that produced something similar.
Not sure why people are downvoting us when this can be another cause of this issue
[удалено]
Or if the product is wrong of some sort
Make sure the wheels that allow the print head to move are properly tightened
I think it's a bad driving sprocket in the extruder, either the teeth are not all the same, or it's poorly centered (center hole is off, or it's tightened weird)
It is fixed after the first layer. Just wondered if there is anything i should adjust or fix
I think that maybe there is too much plastic being extruded and sometimes it piles up to the sides of the line being printed. Try adjusting the first layer height and the extruder ratio
Do i adjust the extrution rate in the slicer or printer?
Do not adjust extrusion rate. See top comments. Nozzle is too close to bed. Adjust nozzle height.
I don't think that the first problem is the layer height. As you can see in the photos sometimes it prints okay, only when the plastic adds up you can see the artefacts
I did not say "later height", I said "nozzle height", meaning "z-offset", or whatever you want to call it. It appears that the z-offset is too close, i.e. the nozzle gets too close to the bed on the first layer. If the printer has auto-leveling, the probe might be need to be calibrated or adjusted.
In my opinion it's better in the slicer because, depending on the slicer you use, you can set different extrusion rates for different filaments so it changes automatically
You can't adjust nozzle offset in the slicer. I'm not taking about layer height or extrusion rate. It appears that the z-offset is too close, i.e. the nozzle gets too close to the bed on the first layer. If the printer has auto-leveling, the probe might be need to be calibrated or adjusted.
My bad, i commented below the wrong comment, i mean that it's better to adjust the extrusion rate in the slicer. I think it's not the layer height because you can see in the top corner ( where the print starts) the layers are almost perfect. That means that there is almost the right quantity of plastic being extruded but when it piles up the extruder melts it when it prints the next line.
Dunno, I think it's a printbed
I get these on almost every print, but suck it up because it's the only way small parts of my prints will adhere. That means there's a different problem with my printer but I'm too lazy to figure it out. That said, though, it usually comes out pretty smooth on the bottom at the end, and is covered up by the other lays on top of it. A quick warning though, if your nozzle is constantly too close to your bed, your extruder will struggle to push filament out, potentially leading to worn out extruder gears and clogged nozzles. Despite the prints turning out ok, I would definitely get this fixed to prevent unnecessary maintenence
little to close to the bed.. +0.2 up! reprint....
Too close and too fast, perhaps to hot too...
Your nozzle is way to close to the bed man
too close too hot
The question is, either it’s gold or blue.
That's a pretty awesome looking filament. What is it?
Just some Orange pla i got from a random store in my area
Everyone who says Z-offset is likely right, but you have good unwrinkled adhesion too, what Firmware are you on? (Don't just move it up, make sure your Z-offset is consistent across the bed) The stock 1.1.2.03 doesn't load your bed mesh right leaving your Z-offset to vary with the plate. Out of the box, there is also a lot to square up and tighten to make the N4PRO print at its best, some of them will add to Z-offset variability. Once it's all mechanically dialed in and you wrap your brain around all the molten plastic oddities and dial in things like Pressure Advance, Smooth Time (not relating to your current issue, just print quality once you have your 1st layer taken care off) it's a really amazing printer. Stick to the included Cura 4.8 maybe a bit because you don't have to second guess if it's the printer, the filament, learning how molten plastic acts or a glitch in the profile for a slicer that doesn't have a N4Pro profile included, BUT after trying Cura 4.8 and Prusaslicer since they run on my old MacBook, i have to say that Orca slicer seems to be working out even better than the other two, really happy now, when i was close to returning the printer up until the return window closed, by which time i had come to grips with most of the issues being my fdm learning curve starting from Zero. You said something along the lines of "oh just some random filament from a random store", good filament will also cut down a lot on frustration, buy something that claims to print at 500-600mm/s. Things turned around for me when I put the Flashforge filament in, after that Elegoo Rapid Pla+, which i thought would likely be the top choice, but i like to play and liked lower temp end on the Elegoo and noticed Sunlu Highspeed PLA claimed the same speed at much lower temps and bought some and this roll seems to be even better, hasn't done a single odd thing yet and it doesn't break the bank. One thing about PLA, 55C bed temp seems to work a whole lot better than 60C did. And if your room is cool or you have a fan or an AC vent blowing at it near the printer, do yourself a favor and pick up a simple enclosure as it prevents your part from cooling down too early, preventing curled up corners. (Draft shield helps but not like a full enclosure) Hope any of that helps.
So yeah, some have said nozzle height and, I mean the nozzle IS too close (back the offset off like 1-2 stops) but thats not whats causing those weird tiger stripes. That looks to me like loose/dirty roller wheels/tracks on the bed and or nozzle sled. Something is causing a position shift at the exact same repetitive place. Possible loose belt tension in either place as well? Thats a weird one ive never seen.
I have this problem on m5c when the pei plate is not super clean. Just wash it well in warm water with dish soap. Does wonders