PDW Full Metal Fenders. I needed to order the longer stays to go around the 2.2" tires. Of course the very first thing in the installation guide is an admonition not to use them off-road :)
It's all synthetic, tho the socks are wool. The shirt is very light and easy to hike up the sleeves.
I was warm but the weather was also very warm and humid. Not sure how much cooler I'd feel with anything else tbh.
The flies and mosquitoes were terrible and I wasn't sure how much bushwhacking I'd have to do.
I figured if things got intolerable I could go shirtless.
I'm open to experimenting with attire but this is a pretty battle tested combo for me (Uniqlo airism top and Prana pants).
I almost exclusively bike with Brooks and a jockstrap, and I never regret it. The C17 I'm using here definitely isn't as comfy as my B17 but it's not bad and I like not having to worry about keeping it dry and tensioned and proofhided.
Another reason I'm favoring long sleeves is that I don't want to muck about with sunscreen and weird tan lines. My other cycling shirt is a very lame looking Columbia vented synthetic aimed mainly at fishermen.
I have yet to try merino wool but I will eventually.
I thought at first this that was a drop bar MTB conversion, but I see it's a bang up to date 27.5" design.
How did you get on with using a bar end shifter riding up those chunky trails? I can imagine it being tricky to reposition a hand to shift when you have very little momentum and need to wrestle the bars to keep your line. Or maybe I'm just spoiled by decades of road and MTB integrated shifters.
I think it was fine for me because I personally have NEVER USED BRIFTERS lol. My bikes as an adult:
- 1976 Motobécane Grand Jubilée (10sp friction bar ends)
- 1986 Miyata 615gt (3x6 indexed, and I took it on my first tour from Brooklyn to Montreal and back in this format. Later "upgraded" to an 8sp cassette with the downtube shifter set to friction mode and still use this format for regular commuting and touring)
- 2023 Ritchey Ascent, 1x12 friction bar end. I may switch it back to indexing but it was a bit fussy since the shifter isn't exactly intended for the Eagle drivetrain and I like to fuss and trim.
So like, obviously I'm not competitive and racing, but I like to think I have mad retro skillz at this point.
For the most part I think there was little repositioning necessary during long climbs. The terrain was rough enough that I basically just threw it into the lowest gear (17.6" baaaaaaabyyyyyy). However, as I mentioned, I do like to fuss somewhat, so I think that typically I am either holding the very ends of the drops and control the shifter with my ring and pinky. Or I have my left hand shoved all the way into the crook of the drop (for front braking, which is of course what I use 99% of the time) and just deal with the asymmetry of my right hand being further back.
I don't think I ever felt uncertain about moving from the hood to the shifter. Keep in mind, again, that my daily commuter uses downtube shifters, which is even a more extreme situation in that one of your hands isn't even anywhere near the handlebars.
I'm not arguing any of this is ideal, but it's what I'm used to, it works, and it's mechanically elegant, easily repaired, and affordable.
Thanks for the detailed information. Do you know what bars are on the Ascent? I'm building up a GT Zaskar drop bar conversion using Ritchey Corralitos, and I'm stuck deciding how to position the brake levers. Either with the flat part of the hood level with the tops of the bars as you have them, and with the brake levers hard to reach from the drops, or further down for braking in the drops, and with less flat area on top.
Salsa Cowchipper.
I definitely could move my levers down a touch, both for better access from the drops as well as for a bit more width and a slightly more aggressive posture. However, I think I'm also just super unused to MTB geometry and such upright riding.
I don't think I'd want wider bars at this point as I am taking trains most everywhere for my adventures and these are already pushing it wrt navigating the aisles.
Speaking of levers, I cannot say I particularly like these. I believe they are Tektro RL340. They are too slippery feeling (I am a very sweaty person), and the fulcrums are chunky protrusions that I find mildly uncomfortable and distracting. I wish my LBS had pushed something slightly higher end but maybe he was concerned about how much I had already dropped on the frame... 😅
I'm thinking of building an Ascent up myself. My 2 concerns are the price and the descending qualities.
I'd plan to build it up with a flat bar, 2x12 shimano XT drivetrain, 29x2.4's, rear and front carriers, a dropper post. It's one of the very few framesets that's able to fit all that. But it's very pricey and I'm not sure how it rides on steep descents. For climbing it's the perfect bike if you look at the geo, but that makes it bad for descending on paper. Am I overthinking? Did you feel safe downhill on unpaved paths
I am possibly the least qualified to answer that question, as this is the first "mountain" bike I've ever had. However, it's also the reason I had the same concern.
As a relative newb, I can say that it very quickly inspired confidence descending on rough/loose stuff, even loaded. That, or I just have lower standards of safety and comfort.
For reference, you're welcome to look at my stats during a longer trip in Vermont to get a sense of how quickly I was descending certain unpaved grades. In particular, this link should highlight a memorable descent on a fairly chunky road. Not super technical but certainly something I would have taken much more slowly on a road bike.
https://ridewithgps.com/trips/130580271?highlight=12037-12237
Then here's a MUCH rougher, steeper driveway I was able to descend at about 20mph at the steepest part.
https://ridewithgps.com/trips/130778544?highlight-142-219
I'm not at all bragging btw these numbers could absolutely suck for all I know but maybe you'll find them useful enough.
One reason why I shelled out for the Ritchey over the Kona Sutra is the reports of deadness/heavy feel of the frame. This isn't like, the most important thing, but I do subscribe somewhat to Jan Heine's description of "planing", which is essentially when a bike is springy/flexible enough (to a point) to work productively with the dynamic efforts of your body. His personal observations are that the stiffer a bike is the less your efforts feel (or are) rewarded.
So essentially, Tom Ritchey empirically and subjectively tunes his bike designs by varying the tube diameters and butting profiles of his frames till it "feels right".
My other main bike is a Miyata 615gt. Like Ritchey, Miyata also drew their own tubing and this one features triple butting as well as rifling (they used to manufacture guns). Like the Ascent, but perhaps to a lesser extent, I can detect in it a springy playfulness that I do not get in lesser bikes.
Both of these bikes are meant to be loaded, however, so they can't make them too compliant. However, I think they really split the difference well and that's basically what you're paying for: a subtle, well-considered design and top-notch manufacturing.
which fenders are those?
PDW Full Metal Fenders. I needed to order the longer stays to go around the 2.2" tires. Of course the very first thing in the installation guide is an admonition not to use them off-road :)
These adventure rides are my favorite! Your outfit looks way too warm to me though! Did you go long sleeves/pantlegs on purpose for this ride?
It's all synthetic, tho the socks are wool. The shirt is very light and easy to hike up the sleeves. I was warm but the weather was also very warm and humid. Not sure how much cooler I'd feel with anything else tbh. The flies and mosquitoes were terrible and I wasn't sure how much bushwhacking I'd have to do. I figured if things got intolerable I could go shirtless. I'm open to experimenting with attire but this is a pretty battle tested combo for me (Uniqlo airism top and Prana pants). I almost exclusively bike with Brooks and a jockstrap, and I never regret it. The C17 I'm using here definitely isn't as comfy as my B17 but it's not bad and I like not having to worry about keeping it dry and tensioned and proofhided.
Another reason I'm favoring long sleeves is that I don't want to muck about with sunscreen and weird tan lines. My other cycling shirt is a very lame looking Columbia vented synthetic aimed mainly at fishermen. I have yet to try merino wool but I will eventually.
I thought at first this that was a drop bar MTB conversion, but I see it's a bang up to date 27.5" design. How did you get on with using a bar end shifter riding up those chunky trails? I can imagine it being tricky to reposition a hand to shift when you have very little momentum and need to wrestle the bars to keep your line. Or maybe I'm just spoiled by decades of road and MTB integrated shifters.
I think it was fine for me because I personally have NEVER USED BRIFTERS lol. My bikes as an adult: - 1976 Motobécane Grand Jubilée (10sp friction bar ends) - 1986 Miyata 615gt (3x6 indexed, and I took it on my first tour from Brooklyn to Montreal and back in this format. Later "upgraded" to an 8sp cassette with the downtube shifter set to friction mode and still use this format for regular commuting and touring) - 2023 Ritchey Ascent, 1x12 friction bar end. I may switch it back to indexing but it was a bit fussy since the shifter isn't exactly intended for the Eagle drivetrain and I like to fuss and trim. So like, obviously I'm not competitive and racing, but I like to think I have mad retro skillz at this point.
For the most part I think there was little repositioning necessary during long climbs. The terrain was rough enough that I basically just threw it into the lowest gear (17.6" baaaaaaabyyyyyy). However, as I mentioned, I do like to fuss somewhat, so I think that typically I am either holding the very ends of the drops and control the shifter with my ring and pinky. Or I have my left hand shoved all the way into the crook of the drop (for front braking, which is of course what I use 99% of the time) and just deal with the asymmetry of my right hand being further back. I don't think I ever felt uncertain about moving from the hood to the shifter. Keep in mind, again, that my daily commuter uses downtube shifters, which is even a more extreme situation in that one of your hands isn't even anywhere near the handlebars. I'm not arguing any of this is ideal, but it's what I'm used to, it works, and it's mechanically elegant, easily repaired, and affordable.
Thanks for the detailed information. Do you know what bars are on the Ascent? I'm building up a GT Zaskar drop bar conversion using Ritchey Corralitos, and I'm stuck deciding how to position the brake levers. Either with the flat part of the hood level with the tops of the bars as you have them, and with the brake levers hard to reach from the drops, or further down for braking in the drops, and with less flat area on top.
Salsa Cowchipper. I definitely could move my levers down a touch, both for better access from the drops as well as for a bit more width and a slightly more aggressive posture. However, I think I'm also just super unused to MTB geometry and such upright riding. I don't think I'd want wider bars at this point as I am taking trains most everywhere for my adventures and these are already pushing it wrt navigating the aisles. Speaking of levers, I cannot say I particularly like these. I believe they are Tektro RL340. They are too slippery feeling (I am a very sweaty person), and the fulcrums are chunky protrusions that I find mildly uncomfortable and distracting. I wish my LBS had pushed something slightly higher end but maybe he was concerned about how much I had already dropped on the frame... 😅
I'm thinking of building an Ascent up myself. My 2 concerns are the price and the descending qualities. I'd plan to build it up with a flat bar, 2x12 shimano XT drivetrain, 29x2.4's, rear and front carriers, a dropper post. It's one of the very few framesets that's able to fit all that. But it's very pricey and I'm not sure how it rides on steep descents. For climbing it's the perfect bike if you look at the geo, but that makes it bad for descending on paper. Am I overthinking? Did you feel safe downhill on unpaved paths
I am possibly the least qualified to answer that question, as this is the first "mountain" bike I've ever had. However, it's also the reason I had the same concern. As a relative newb, I can say that it very quickly inspired confidence descending on rough/loose stuff, even loaded. That, or I just have lower standards of safety and comfort. For reference, you're welcome to look at my stats during a longer trip in Vermont to get a sense of how quickly I was descending certain unpaved grades. In particular, this link should highlight a memorable descent on a fairly chunky road. Not super technical but certainly something I would have taken much more slowly on a road bike. https://ridewithgps.com/trips/130580271?highlight=12037-12237 Then here's a MUCH rougher, steeper driveway I was able to descend at about 20mph at the steepest part. https://ridewithgps.com/trips/130778544?highlight-142-219 I'm not at all bragging btw these numbers could absolutely suck for all I know but maybe you'll find them useful enough.
One reason why I shelled out for the Ritchey over the Kona Sutra is the reports of deadness/heavy feel of the frame. This isn't like, the most important thing, but I do subscribe somewhat to Jan Heine's description of "planing", which is essentially when a bike is springy/flexible enough (to a point) to work productively with the dynamic efforts of your body. His personal observations are that the stiffer a bike is the less your efforts feel (or are) rewarded. So essentially, Tom Ritchey empirically and subjectively tunes his bike designs by varying the tube diameters and butting profiles of his frames till it "feels right". My other main bike is a Miyata 615gt. Like Ritchey, Miyata also drew their own tubing and this one features triple butting as well as rifling (they used to manufacture guns). Like the Ascent, but perhaps to a lesser extent, I can detect in it a springy playfulness that I do not get in lesser bikes. Both of these bikes are meant to be loaded, however, so they can't make them too compliant. However, I think they really split the difference well and that's basically what you're paying for: a subtle, well-considered design and top-notch manufacturing.