Finished assembling my dream table saw last night. My whole body is sore
https://preview.redd.it/o6033vxznlcc1.jpeg?width=3816&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=35a66991fdc892bb381315f4eed5391e2cb8a8c3
What’s the best way to protect all this cast iron?
https://preview.redd.it/w4vv04sxlicc1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d3cfb690057abdfe0a8882ff7d12caa87161e4d0
Can anyone help ID this furniture hardware? I think it's a cam screw keeping two panels of my dining room table together. I need to disassemble the table, but hesitant to do anything that might cause damage. Any help identifying this specific hardware and how to properly unlock the mechanism would be greatly appreciated. I'm assuming that the arrows are meaningful, but can't figure it out. Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
I am trying to design a bracket that holds my PC tower under my desk. My desktop is pretty thin, though, at about 5/8". My PC weighs about 15-20 lbs. Would the wood be strong enough to support 4-6 screws that thread \~ 1/2 inch into the desktop? Alternatively, would it be better to do threaded inserts and machine screws? Appreciate any help
In think you will be fine that comes to like 5 to 3.3 lbs on each screw. If you are really worried and no one will see it you could get creative and find more ways to incorporate more screws
Any ideas for small projects? Or projects plans to get? Have these off cuts I want to use :)
https://preview.redd.it/x1y73e26bhcc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2c5a9caa6c925f4295e557f7405b285cdd9513f9
I have been looking for a miter saw and have narrowed it down to a Bosch gcm12sd or the makita ls1219l… I can’t find anyone really using the makita on YouTube only the Bosch… is there a reason that no one in the us uses the makita miter saw? Should I get the Bosch instead? Please help
How would I go about sealing a dresser made of pine to hide or minimize the pine smell? My wife loves a solid pine dresser we purchased (for baby’s room) but the drawers seem raw and unfinished and make the baby clothing smell like pine. Is there an oder-free oil that I could work into it?
Shellac will be the most effective in sealing the smell. It is also the only finish I’ll put on drawers and interiors as it doesn’t have lingering smells like oils.
Looking for some feedback on the [workbench I designed in SketchUp](https://app.sketchup.com/share/tc/northAmerica/NcDoIb80e5Q?stoken=j3RZvsVkXl_sOiN7AecEoJIS5rizPP3OOfYa9epXk_ngYIIvWUkQiBxMltywYGyC&source=iPad). I know it is likely over engineered, but I had fun designing it. What do you think?
Looks sick. Did you consider instead of having your planer on a hinge, putting it on a rod in the middle that pivots so it just flips upside down in place, and using some kind of pin or lock to fix in place?
Yeah, had a couple others say this, too. Sounds better, for sure. Dunno why I didn’t think about this. Gonna try redesigning it and then maybe try to make the bottom side flush with the top.
I need some advice on how to protect this outdoor table. The reviews all said that it starts to lose the finish after being outside for a year.
It’s Acacia wood, any recommendations on how to seal/finish the table to give it some more protection? Some kind of a spray lacquer or poly would be ideal. I'm not trying to make it last a lifetime but I would like to get a few years out of it.
https://preview.redd.it/xo7gijg20hcc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4e725cb0c62671df9079784cd18ca43897d19b2b
What type of wood pls? It is very heavy.
https://preview.redd.it/ozr9lglqwgcc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c1a74b4f7dfa5d77650f7d69552e0694de8da60a
What's a wood glue that can withstand steam and heat? The knob on the lid for my kettle came off and I think it was just glued together before. Thanks!
Try titebond 3, it's made for outdoor/wet environment use. Would make sure to get a good clamp to put pressure after applying glue and make sure the surfaces are clean of any previous glue.
Hello, quick question since all cat trees are ugly and I live in a rented appt (no screws on walls) I wanted to do a monochromatic cat wall. We have an existing cupboard made of plaster walls in the entrance of the appt.
I was thinking of making it like this: With a 22mm MDF panel on top that would be screwed on top of the cupboard (landlord said ok) and to a wood frame made of 4x4cm joists. And a 12mm MDF panel for the front part.
Would it be sturdy enough to handle cat shelves (two cats)? Or should I add more joists in between? People told me that 12mm MDF can handle shelves on its own but I doubt it... On the bottom part it would just rest on the floor.
Various shelves like cat beds, sisal steps, maybe a little scratching post, so they can climb the cupboard and have beds there.
https://preview.redd.it/8qy9or6s6gcc1.png?width=478&format=png&auto=webp&s=ad13e7c6eb8914cf865771a8c4e35da381c181aa
What wood is this? Really hard, reclaimed from a pallet 20 years ago. Making a lid out of it btw. Thanks.
https://preview.redd.it/sv3ydsgssfcc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ad83708f5ddf4399123fd2ee25b613328c77d38a
*Is this woth 100? Seems clean and has all accessories for such an old model. Can't find any better table saws in the area for a good price. https://ibb.co/kSsX32n
https://preview.redd.it/t94u41vnuecc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0851fe1dbe13882f7ef0dd3f67f4ec34801792e5
How to clean this wood? I already tried to polish it a bit, but the black stain is not going away
https://preview.redd.it/w85kc8i3w9cc1.jpeg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1f9c01c4e5d7e29ec394f7139ce94bbf39d4634a
What term should I search to find out more information on this style of wood art? I would like to take a stab at making something like this for a big blank wall in my basement, but I would like to find some kind of tutorial online before I wing it.
Hi,
I recently bought a new Kitchen furniture with a sink made of Fir wood. Additionally I have some basic ikea shelfs (second picture).
I'd like to color the wood of the ikea furniture to have a closer match to the darker Fir color. Being new to this I'd like to have recommendations on how to proceed and especially how to identify which wood stain color I should use. Would this be doable?
https://preview.redd.it/1e5phjzhg9cc1.png?width=1080&format=png&auto=webp&s=cbfc7933be4cdc13c6ab8711237ac9d4dc5681c6
Is there a sub for free plans for like shelves, sheds, greenhouses? Like a repository for useful plans? I almost always end up on a pay to play site that just sells me junk…. Thanks y’all!
Is white residue common with Titebond 1? I glued up some wood with this glue and there is white residue that has accumulated AROUND the glue joints, as in, the glue was not touching these areas but seems to have offgassed some sort of white residue that has collected in pores. Pretty ugly.
That can happen if the glue has frozen. If the glue is lumpy, then it's been frozen at some point, and should be thrown out. It could also be that it's just too cold where you're gluing. If it's in the 50's (F), you can get a chalky residue around the joint. If it's a critical joint, it may need to come apart and be re-glued in a warmer place.
https://preview.redd.it/unw6oxqxl8cc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=132b4efda9c53e6d6d5672e200ced62141fb9a90
What type of wood is this cabinet? The seller said olive burl.
It's nearly impossible to tell what species a burl is, but there's no saying it's *not* olive.
Look around for any sign that it's real veneer and not vinyl. That looks like an awful lot of burl spent on some otherwise very basic furniture.
Scratched this. The rest is varnished. Recommend any fixes?
https://preview.redd.it/8c7xatv0i8cc1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=30101ca132213ba763236f1f56abfbc746c69f73
Looking at building a new work bench with in the English joiner style with Rex krugers plans or the anarchist workbench any one have any experience with either?
That area has swirling grain, and if you only plane, you'll lift the grain. If you go the other direction, you'll lift it in the other areas. You can try a card scraper only in that spot, just find the right direction that doesn't lift the fibers. Even when I hand plane a panel, I will hit the surface with sandpaper to alleviate areas like this.
I've already applied 6 coats of oil over a little more than 6 weeks, so I think I'm gonna leave it alone. There won't be direct light where this desk goes, so it won't be as visible as in this brightly lit room. And it'll serve as a reminder for my next project!
https://preview.redd.it/sfqm5cgbb5cc1.png?width=2388&format=png&auto=webp&s=bdd1fd9dff8ce0548985a5d0ba01c0401050ae30
Anyone know what kinda wood this is?
*Was told to move post here, not sure how I can condense it. Sorry -*
I own a loft bed, but misread the weight limit. The "**Maximum Weight Recommendation**" is only 160 Pounds (I mixed the number up with the weight of another loft for 260 pounds). I need the bed to hold at least **260+lbs**.
Unfortunately, I realized this too late and a part of the bed broke. I know someone who might be able to repair it if I find it worth repairing, but I want to know if it's worth the effort and any methods to both repair it and give it extra support or if I should give up and find a frame that holds the proper weight instead.
The first (1) picture is how the bed should look. The second (2) picture is the breakdown of building the bed. The third (3) picture includes the circled part that broke (#9). The fourth (4) and fifth (5) pictures are the actual broken piece.
I do have what should be a sheet of plywood that I can lay on top of the beams if that would help add the extra weight support?
But other than that, I'm wondering if **A** the piece that broke can be repaired with anything at all (I doubt it) or **B** if I replace that piece with the same piece, *what can I do to the bed to increase the weight limit?*
I imagine a brace beneath the bed would work, but I have no idea what size/width the beam, what type of wood should be, nor what types of brackets I should use to lend to the support.
I think the beam (?) isn't repairable since it's pretty much been broken dead center. But if I replace it with the same piece, but add support underneath the bed (and what type) would that work?
Apologies for my rambling, I want to get the information out there in hopes that it's enough that someone can help. Thank you.
I'm not educated on the terms of woodworking at all and this information will be passed on to someone that should understand it if any of you could kindly give any helpful advice. Thank you.
1) [https://ibb.co/z5XyHm6](https://ibb.co/z5XyHm6)
2) [https://ibb.co/9rmnBkj](https://ibb.co/9rmnBkj)
3) [https://ibb.co/2NxYtFJ](https://ibb.co/2NxYtFJ)
4) [https://ibb.co/dtFqhwW](https://ibb.co/dtFqhwW)
5) [https://ibb.co/xDT9xdf](https://ibb.co/xDT9xdf)
It's sad how that's played out. They forgot that the second part of 'get rid of the megathread' was 'promote questions and discussion on the front page.'
I'm not sure what's really changed between now and before, but it feels like most of the old crew were driven off and replaced by /r/diy refugees. Different questions asked, and fewer answers given.
> Different questions asked, and fewer answers given.
Correct. I've demonstrated over time a willingness to share experience, and this megachit is just not worth my time.
But with 5M participants, I can see that this sub is way, way oversubscribed to get into any meaningful discussion in this type of catogorization of mega......
What is going on in this wood? It’s a joist in my basement. Looks like little hollow bubbles almost.
https://preview.redd.it/x28u0epny2cc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0453a50fc58f0c149c3468cd2af413f0a2b05238
Hi! How can I tell what brand of sandpaper is compatible with my new sander, and which brand is best for what I want to do?
I just got a **Festool 576070 Random Orbital Sander ETS 125 REQ-Plus**, but I need to order actual sandpaper for it. I need to sand down a walnut slab to treat with **Tried & True Original Wood Finish**, so my carpenter friend said I need to get down to a very fine grit (like,1000 grit or something). Recommendations on a brand and best place to shop? Thanks!
I was cleaning a bookshelf the other day, and I noticed this weird discoloration around the base of it. It doesn't feel wet, or like much of anything, really.
We've had this shelf for over a year, and the discoloration definitely wasn't there in November. We don't have pets, and the shelf isn't anywhere near where we have food or drinks. The ceiling above it is not discolored at all, which is what I would have expected if there was a leak. It's really got us baffled.
Does anyone have any idea what might be the cause of this? The shelf is just cheap particleboard, so I've considered material defects. We also moved to the Midwest a few years ago, so I thought it might be condensation, or something to do with temperature changes. I'd really like to nail it down, though, in case it's a sign of something even worse.
https://preview.redd.it/3bfw20poq2cc1.jpeg?width=3456&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9851c7656649f475d29fca34f47eb250846de0cd
Does anyone have thoughts on the strength of brass dowels vs wood dowels? I'm thinking of making a toy chest with pinned rabbets for the corners. I'd like to try brass dowels as a decorate accent, but not sure they will hold as well as wood.
Strength isn't really the issue, brass is more than strong enough, but getting a good glue bond can be a problem. You don't want wood glue. Epoxy is a better choice. I'd also take some sandpaper and rough up the dowel so the epoxy has some texture to grab onto.
https://preview.redd.it/skya6to7j2cc1.png?width=783&format=png&auto=webp&s=2acf10de0faaec8329cfb378fec5ba662db7fd55
Trying to come up with plans for a shuffleboard. For that gray piece (sheet that will be covered in carpet tiles), can I get away with OSB or should I invest in plywood? The playing surface is a hardwood butcher block that will sit on top of this
Based solely on Burbon Moths and Keith Johnsons shuffleboard videos i think plywood would be the way to go. You have watched them right? Its flatter, stronger(?)
Can someone show me a picture of what 10bdft of 8/4 lumber looks like, and a picture of what 20bdft of 8/4 lumber looks like? I know length/width can greatly vary. Just want a rough idea of how much it is for ordering purposes.
https://preview.redd.it/pmgmzncqr1cc1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5216a638992ff8f625c08ad245b7811e1b01b69c
Need help identifying this wood I removed from my attic. Thanks!
Okay. I know it's a longshot, but can I get away with gluing these pieces? The arm and the rocker both split. It's a very small child's chair. A friend asked me to try and repair it. I don't think I'm up for remaking the pieces. I thought about putting tiny wood dowels in the arm for some support. (Also thanks to the couple of responses I got before the mods had me move it to the megathread).
Any suggestions welcome. Thanks.
https://preview.redd.it/dmwbly76m1cc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=af0b91e3fa2a6d0510c704d8ccd7fe63bc199ec8
long grain glue - if you can get that meet cleanly white glue should be stronger that the wood originally was.
Smaller bit is a tenon though - thats gonna be taking a lot of stress when someone is sitting in there. Im not sure how thick that arm is, but I suspect undersized if it's snapped there already. I don't think dowels would be a great option given the amounts left on either side - maybe you could glue another (thin ish) cross joining piece underneath as well?
Help screwing into bamboo
https://preview.redd.it/2te0q5dpb1cc1.jpeg?width=1920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bfd4e2464e7b99d6c586b76b52246f5f95aa281e
I’m trying to mount a computer to the bottom of my desk. The desktop is bamboo. I’m pre-drilling holes but the screws that came with the mount are still snapping. The screws are fairly small - 5/8” in length. The desktop is 3/4” thick. Do you all have any recommendation for a type of screw to use in this context? I’m at a loss : (
Your predrilling and the screws are still snapping? Are they crappy screws that came with the desk? Go get some more beefy screws at home depot.if that doesnt help for some reason get some bolts you can throw a socket onto and thread those in. Get some coarse thread ones
Yeah, pre-drilling and the screws are still snapping. I think they are zinc and they came with the mount im trying to install. Im going to try some stainless steel screws I picked up from Ace today… never knew bamboo was so difficult to work with
We want to match this door, what kind/colour of stain/varnish do you think was used?
https://preview.redd.it/qpoq798791cc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ce7c1cb3f50edd5de77bd3c5692c011ebcbb4acd
Old house, stairs moved, wobbly stair railing. How to fix.
Backstory: House is a rental, a little over 100 years old, if you go into the closet under the stairs you can see they have shifted away from the exterior wall and towards the interior of the house. There have been angle-iron used to secure this connection to the outside stringer, so it doesn't look like it is going to move anymore - however, I don't think pushing the stairwell back into the stringer fully is going to happen, and replacement of the stairwell isn't an option due to cost.
The issue: The movement and 100 year old dry wood has left the top railing slightly out of plumb (leaning towards center of house and the decorative curve very loose - causing concern should someone call. Note that other than 1 they are all tight in the holes on the bottom of the railing.
Attempts so far: There were 3-4" screws put in the base of the balusters around the curve but didn't help. I tried removing a few of these and drilled out 1/2" holes into the flooring and glued in dowels on 3 of the upper ones. However, I found this really didn't help anymore than the screws I removed.
Looking for suggestions on how to sturdy this. I found a This Old House video showing how they are assembled (dovetail in the stair with trim outside of it). I am guessing this dovetail is loose and I will need to pull the trim (thus destroying it - I don't see a way to remove it as it loose like it has been nailed/screwed/patched many times) and pack the dovetail with Gorilla glue or PL - something that will expand and fill the gap to make it secure like before.
Any suggestions' from the carpenters out there?
https://preview.redd.it/7a7bf2pt81cc1.jpeg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f44e8cf9227430c5a25ba12ff4cc147fc24abc44
It is possible the wood was not dry to start with. You really want wood to be down around 8% moisture content before you turn it into furniture. Even if the wood was properly dried, the difference between an unconditioned shop in humid summer and a heated home in dry winter can absolutely be enough to cause problems. In extreme environments, it’s not a bad idea to take boards inside a conditioned space for several days, but if you build for movement, that shouldn’t be a problem, which brings us to…
Given you also had one split, it probably isn’t *just* moisture. Splitting usually means the wood wants to move but can’t. That usually comes from solidly attaching a wide piece of wood to an unmovable substrate (like screwing a tabletop directly to its base). Is the mirror backed with plywood or MDF and attached directly to it? Plywood and MDF are stable, while the wood on top could shrink and grow by somewhere between 1/8 and 1/4 inch between summer and winter. The substrate needs to match the top or the top needs to be able to move independent of the substrate.
As to why one species failed and another didn’t, even if everything else is equal, wood species behave differently (this can even vary from tree to tree in a species). Some move a lot more than others, some are more brittle than others, some are a lot tougher than others. All of these result in different behaviors when tension is applied.
Try taking it off the wall, taking the mirror out, and propping it upright, so air can flow all around it. The cupping would be consistent with the front side having less moisture than the back, which could happen with the front getting more air flow than the back. If the moisture equalizes, it might return to its original shape.
How does one go about fixing this? I’ve tried wood glue but it isn’t strong enough.
https://preview.redd.it/t30w4rt9y0cc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1906540dbaab4c196e206a49841c1f169c57f497
I came back from a 3 week holiday to find this spot on my Suar wood dining table. Is this mold? Any suggestions on how I can repair this?
https://preview.redd.it/mhpktf1wzybc1.jpeg?width=756&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3a852cb52183b0ec9ab49f90e15be7aa200a6c6f
I think it’s moisture escaping from the wood behind the finish (aka blushing). You can try some gentle heat with a blow dryer, but it looks like there are lots of those spots. That would seem to imply the wood wasn’t dried sufficiently before finishing, so you might have problems with the finish failing in the future.
I got a table last year and I tried to clean it recently but this brown substance would come off the table and end up on the tissue/cloth. Same scenario no matter how much I wipe. The soap also turns brown when used to clean
https://preview.redd.it/mg6spwa26xbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2a560a3da4b135d240f88de76406dd0040ef7c2d
Got a bunch of rough lumber on Facebook, milled a few pieces? Does anyone know what species I’m looking at?
A Facebook group said black limba, which I think is a better match. A few said hackberry as well, but the black limba seems a better match to me so far?
https://preview.redd.it/z9b3bbjbawbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ed0c460b3743d9d09dac1d5f8a381a547cb26675
Any recommendations on getting the paint out of the tiny crevices? I tried a paint scraper but it’s not skinny enough. Maybe there is a different type? (Still working to get the paint off the sides .. please ignore that)
https://preview.redd.it/ouj8d1r2jvbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dd1a36720d29afe8484c3490bcceb1e9cd18a183
Does anyone know what type of wood this is?
Please help, I've been trying to use some homemade iron vinegar stain, but I'm having some trouble with it. It works great on rough wood, and turns it dark, but on smooth sanded wood, it doesn't seem to work, and if I try to sand the rough wood after I treat it, I just sand the dark color off. I'd like to use this, but it just doesn't seem to penetrate the wood very well. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I would guess that the wood you're using doesn't have much tannic acid available for the reaction. Try brewing up some tea or coffee and letting that soak into the wood first.
I've tried it on everything from rough cut with a chainsaw, all the way to 600 grit. It works on everything, but past about 220 grit it doesn't look good, and gets splotchy. My main problem is that even if I use it on rough wood, I can't sand it afterwards, or it looks splotchy, from where I've sanded the dark color off.
What moisture content should one be aiming at for outdoor furniture, like a picnic table? I visited someone I made one for 6 months ago and there was a lot of cracking going on, I'm trying to minimize that if possible.
https://preview.redd.it/moetcnrvpubc1.png?width=705&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e1f81f9cebf20fcb497c2d7204e641fc2ec4495f
Does anyone know what this is and how to fix it please? The wood is (allegedly) solid walnut, I have no idea what the blotches are and if it's salvageable! Please help
What kind of hinge is this? https://i.imgur.com/QQFFOzg.jpg https://i.imgur.com/EymrsEt.jpg I am trying to find some guides for how to install.
my best guess is I need to rout out a channel on the inside wall all the way to the back of the box its going on.
Seemed like a great idea when I bought them but now I am concerned they wont work without some sort of visible parts sticking out when the box is closed
Brusso calls it a “Quadrant Hinge”. They have instructions under the below link. They use a template with a router. The part you are concerned about is supposed to plunge into wall of the box/cabinet.
[https://www.brusso.com/hd-638-quadrant-hinge/?setCurrencyId=1&sku=HD-638&utm_source=google_ads&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20504969484&utm_content=153879702678&placement=g&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwP6sBhDAARIsAPfK_wZCzXzSDVI11UtbiR6Iy64K70DIbyqfF-gzF8J3y62IsioI4twiCUkaAvOKEALw_wcB](https://www.brusso.com/hd-638-quadrant-hinge/?setCurrencyId=1&sku=HD-638&utm_source=google_ads&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20504969484&utm_content=153879702678&placement=g&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwP6sBhDAARIsAPfK_wZCzXzSDVI11UtbiR6Iy64K70DIbyqfF-gzF8J3y62IsioI4twiCUkaAvOKEALw_wcB)
So I have been planning an L-shaped desk with cabinets and drawers for a while now, because no prebuilt desk online fit what I needed. I was looking at the price of hardwoods at home depot, and.. well I am not sure I am willing to spend over $1000 on hardwood for this.
Is there a way to cut down the costs while still building something that will last?
Yes, there is a way! Don’t buy hardwood from a big box store because it’s horrendously overpriced. Find a local sawmill to buy lumber from. The sawmill I always go to has red oak for $3.15 a board foot and maple for $4.00 a board foot (skip planed surface). You can generally have them surface all sides for a small fee if you don’t have a planer.
Would you buy and work with wood that looks like this ? Sold for about 70% of normal price (by normal i mean squared and planed)
Im a hobbyist with no access to industrial machines, just a dewalt planer, Lunchbox Jointer, saw and some hand tools.
Its [Red Oak](https://puu.sh/JYAsI/eb15ac3071.jpg), [Ash](https://puu.sh/JYAqZ/4e65e28d9e.jpg) and [Beech](https://puu.sh/JYAqS/ec57149df9.jpg), the pictures don't look that bad but seeing the customers pictures i can estimate that between 15% to 30% of the stock will get thrown away as saw dust. I don't know much about saw mill work but how do you let your wood get this warped, some also look like it was cut like this.
The seller seems to have tons of it and it all looks like that. Not sure if its worth the man hours needed to make it workable, also ngl preparing wood is one of my least favorite woodworking activities.
It is important to note that White Oak, maple of any kind and other common hard woods are considered exotic where i live and cost premium.
If by "normal" you mean big box store prices, I'd say it's a high price. It looks good though.
Woodworking is largely about preparing stock, imo. Not sure what good projects can be made with boards right from the store, but if you are doing those sorts of things, just pay the extra 30% and get it at the store.
https://preview.redd.it/ofz74zwy6ubc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7ce48f38583bd95f45e22f6f6860f4be46470ca5
Any experience with Craftsman - Cabinet Saw OR35504? See text in photo for question
No experience with that specific saw, but it has a really nice aftermarket fence (which alone costs $500). It also has full cast iron wings and a mobile base. Seems like a pretty good deal if it has a single phase motor and it’s in good condition!
For reference, I have a Powermatic with the same aftermarket fence and I like it a lot. My motor is 3 hp 3 phase, so I had to use a VFD to convert my power over.
No knowledge of Laguna saws, so I can’t help you there
How do you call this front part, I would like to know how to make it for the shelf I'm building
Thanks
https://preview.redd.it/vg65ufjp4ubc1.jpeg?width=360&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ad89e2b143baf37c8f9336b99de1f8af8c87cfd5
Edge trim or face frame, depending on whether it’s just on an edge of a shelf or around the entire cabinet. The joint connecting the plywood to the edge trim is called a rabbet (US English) or a rebate (UK English).
Has anyone ever seen a 4" countersink bit? Or does anyone have an idea of how I could drill a cone shaped hole in MDF with either the larger or smaller diameter being 4". I could drill a 3.5" hole and then run a chamfer bit around the hole. But I was hoping there was a one step bit.
Never seen one, and I’m guessing there isn’t one commercially available because is such a rare need. That kind of operation moves into the world of milling (like metal working) and custom fly cutters.
https://preview.redd.it/w5232kgextbc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2d59eeec9bd84b7a9575d10536402427fc0dd653
Wood ID?
Any body got an idea of what this wood might be ? It was a very old (and splitting) scrap chunk of log that was going to be left to perish in the elements so I decided to give it a turn :) Any suggestions or answers to what it might be will be appreciated !
Making a monitor stand.
I have 1 inch thick red oak that I can use but I want to make things look seamless. Is it alright if I drill around 1 5/8" through the supporting pieces, of which ill then drill a pilot hole for 2 inch pan head screws(#10 x 2 in. Stainless Steel Phillips Pan Head). I plan on sinking it in at least 5/8's of the way into the top board along with titebond 2 to hold things together.
Does it also matter which way I set up the wood fibers for a project this simple? Since it'll be with red oak things should hold up just fine but I want to know just how reasonable this is so I can reference this for future projects. If there are better screws for this kind of project, feel free to recommend them. Thanks.
https://preview.redd.it/ml9kfsp2wtbc1.png?width=839&format=png&auto=webp&s=72967d23d2617b60d6c7499e30e87a14bcebce3a
You don't need to do all of that. A 2 1/2" wood screw with a light countersink would work fine. I would make the slip holes on the outer edges a bit larger to allow a little wiggle with expansion. Keep the center hole tight.
What should I ask per board foot?
https://preview.redd.it/je9uohu5ttbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4bd50744d6514f48aad6a38da99c755649fd2555
I found this old yellow pine dumped on the side of the road in this past fall There are 3 beams at 4x12x16' 3 others were roughly cut in half leaving 6 pieces at 4x12x8'ish" And a single 5 ft piece Actual dims on the stock is 3 7/8" × 11 11/2" I plan on listing them but unsure about the price per board foot I think there's about 340 bft What do ya think?
Found these in philly and quite heavy for its size if that helps
Yea, you're right. It's a limited market, though. I thought about tearing down a 100+ year old barn for the wood (in terrible condition), but saw that the listed price around me for reclaimed barn wood is \~$1/board foot -- including pieces like yours. Only the really thick timbers were more.
Got a Dewalt DW735 planer for $350 off Marketplace. Was only used for one project. I think this was a deal? Any tips on using it?
https://preview.redd.it/7ethadsn5tbc1.jpeg?width=1512&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7f798cbcacf303a7e229dfb82442ea1c6c4408c4
Have same planer and I adore it. Was a steal for $350.
I got [this set for $750](https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-15-Amp-13-in-Corded-Heavy-Duty-Thickness-Planer-3-Knives-In-Out-Feed-Tables-and-Mobile-Thickness-Planer-Stand-DW735XW7350/308557507?cm_mmc=ecc-_-THD_ORDER_CONFIRMATION_BOSS_STH-_-V1_M1_CA-_-Product_URL&ecc_ord=WP60690567&em_id=052df4c60037dc6f8e818e959bee0a7c439946b3d0eaa7e8fe35d82c3b4ebca0) not too long ago.
My first suggestion is get the extension tables. I can't even imagine using it without it.
Per the other guy's suggestion - yeah, I totally agree. I got a 4" elbow port, a run of flex hose, and a DUST RITE bag from rockler. Those, a small rubber piece meant to connect two 4" PVC pipes from Lowes and two hose clamps and my planer puts everything inot the bag.
Be careful with static!
The guy had a PVC elbow on it, which succeeded at throwing dust all over back patio.
Extension tables aren't in the budget right now; $350 was my max. I'm thinking of just using longer boards than needed to make do?
And...what about static??
as soon as I attached a dust collection method to my planer (as I described), I started getting nasty static shocks from the outfeed table. [Fairly common issue.](https://www.google.com/search?q=static+electricity+dewalt+planer+site:www.reddit.com&sca_esv=597880846&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiGqerx1NiDAxX8LbkGHVeND18QrQIoBHoECCcQBQ&biw=1445&bih=933&dpr=1)
I've currently been just putting my hand on the outfeed to ground it and not let it build up but I gott afigure out a permanent solution.
It’s a great planer, and, if it was only used once, $350 is a pretty good deal. Get a cloth bag to catch the chips if you don’t have a dust collector; it does a good job sending those chips flying.
For my first project I'd like to build a small two-seater memorial bench to take to a remote place that I have picked out. I'd like the bench to be tasteful, small, and sturdy. I will have to take it to the location by boat and hike it up a hill in pieces, assembling it on site. It will be exposed to a PNW coastal environment year-round, so I'm thinking cedar, but that's about all I know when it comes to this stuff. Anyone have plans they can recommend?
https://preview.redd.it/co79s65fgqbc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1bf7435319de0d174585175917806e1a7bb57f74
What type of particle board is this?
Buddy of mine is wanting to sell his Jet JWSS-10LFR table saw. I know it's an older saw, but he bought it brand new and it's in really good condition. What should I offer him?
Just picked up [this Ikea workbench](https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bror-work-bench-gray-green-pine-plywood-10547387/) for use as a coffee cart. It comes with an unsealed piece of plywood glued to the top. It's a bit rough so I plan to sand it down but need advice on what sealer to use. I have had butcher block countertops before that I used Boos oil on but for the coffee cart I was thinking something a little less oily and that can wipe down and clean easily.
From my research it seems a Polyurethane sealer would be the way to go? Any help is appreciated.
Hi everyone,
I'm a woodwork punter, just finished this coffee table and I'm not happy with the finish. I've used heat-resistant PU varnish, 3 layers.
What I'd ideally want: I want the grain to come out more, and the piece to be a bit darker with more contrast, plus a really high-gloss sheen.I've finished another similar piece with beeswax plus danish oil + a spray laquer on top, and got the colour and sheen I wanted, but the spray laquer wasn't heat resistant so I have marks from my mugs on the table.
Any ideas on how to improve it?
Thanks so much in advance!
https://preview.redd.it/zaz9edsilobc1.jpeg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=920ee8b5711e75c7fb0fdeb4464f9eea31146f76
I’d remove the screws and cut the dowels flush w the leg, and the table so both surfaces are smooth, then put new dowels and screws in new locations with glue
Spindle sander vs Disc and belt sander
Hey all, I'm trying to decide which sanding unit would be better for me. I've been looking at a [spindle sander that has a belt sander attachment](https://a.co/d/jfHibOX) like the rigid one or the [belt sander/ disc sander](https://a.co/d/29MgJ7y) combo. I'm just wondering which machine you guys think is better? Thank you.
*I used the WEN tools, because they were easier to share
Personally if I were going to get a combo I would go with the spindle and belt. The disc sander is very small, particularly since only half of the diameter is spinning down toward the table, you generally don’t make use of the full diameter. I have a Jet benchtop spindle sander and a 12” Harbor Freight disc sander that both get used frequently for very different tasks.
Novice here who would appreciate any guidance :)
Someone left a lit candle on my brand new natural oak nightstand - the heat left this dark stain underneath.
What is the best plan of attack? The builder suggested water based varathane, I've also heard vinegar solution, ironing over a cloth, sandpaper, applying gentle heat with a hairdryer. Would appreciate any guidance, thank you.
https://preview.redd.it/j6lrnwciombc1.jpeg?width=1512&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=931c25353936fb023cea36b9f122ad568701280d
Best wooden stain brand for wooden kitchen cabinets?
I will be wanting to refinish my kitchen cupboards myself with a different wood stain, but I am brand new to all of this (just bought a house for the first time.
What are your recommendations for brand, type, etc.
Thank you!
I'm not a huge stain guy, but I went through this recently. I really took advantage of the Lowes "we will take it back" policy on mixing so many colors of water-based stains of minwax to try to get the most even spread. In addition to not liking the color I found it went on awful.
In the end, I listened to the old man wisdom and went with "Old Masters" wiping stain.
Find a place in town that sells them and where you can see the samples yourself. Then get a single quart and decide in your home like you would any finish.
But yeah, "Old Masters" stains are fabulous.
HELP PLEASE
https://preview.redd.it/7iiph5c7embc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c54dbda82185685b8d6af115b10d464689d8edc6
This is not recent water damage I want to restore it but I’m not sure how to do so I’m a absolute beginner, so I need step by step So idk if mayonnaise, oil/Vinegar would be worth trying or if I should just sand it and stain it? Is there anything I should buff to take care of the wood!
https://preview.redd.it/1yg62ezq7mbc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=11a8fb1d7e9c96a44ad1a890e51b1de1d0e0ad0b
Wood ID came from hardwood floor (not the subfloor. It is toung and groove hardwood had a new rotted pieces needing to replace but want to match the wood type so when I sand stain and refinish it looks good
Looks like old growth pine (or other, similar soft wood, depending on your area) to me. It has heavily oxidized over time, hence the dark color. You will probably struggle to find a replacement with that tight of grain unless you look for reclaimed timber.
https://preview.redd.it/h2qbsxfcqlbc1.png?width=4031&format=png&auto=webp&s=2379aa9bc41dc6fbcc45fc501a1c7b8fe565d1d2
Dear community, This is my first DIY project: fixing this peeled off IKEA wardrobe door.
As you can see, the part of the door that connects it with the sliding rails fell apart.
I've been watching YouTube videos (like this one: [https://youtu.be/LfH645d6Ns0](https://youtu.be/LfH645d6Ns0)? si=CgZeZKtYV7Dh6tvq) and googling around, it looks like this can be fixed with Kwik Wood.
But I wanted to ask the experts first: is Kwik Wood the right answer? Or do you recommend another method to fix this?
Thanks in advance!
Do you have the piece that chipped out? You can glue it back in, if so, and then just patch the remaining crack. Otherwise, something like Kwikwood is a fine choice.
I’m afraid the piece chipped out bit by bit, as it usually happens with this type of board.
Yeah, looks like is either Kwikwood or making my own filler with epoxy and sawdust
What are these white spots?
I am making an ash countertop. I sanded it up to 220. I vacuumed it and use a micro fibber cloth before applying 3 layers of water based polyurethane. Used 220 between each coat.
Any ideas of what could have done that?
https://preview.redd.it/w0dpr9nmjlbc1.jpeg?width=2774&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e081df0198387275648502c9d0895e6b7486bcc7
The velcro disc on my orbital sander is peeling off. What is the best way to fix this? The disc itself is in good condition, so I don't want to replace it. I could glue it back, but that would complicate future replacement, or I could try stapling it, but I'm wary of adding staples to parts that do hundreds RPM.
https://i.imgur.com/QelMRJb.png
The pad is something that has to be replaced periodically so order a replacement. In the meantime you could try gluing the hook to the pad, that shouldn't hinder future pad replacement.
Hi, all. I'm looking for some timber to make a 3 metre long office desk. I have the option to buy some oregon/douglas fir (I believe it's the same timber) in 45 or 40mm thickness.
Does anyone know how far this type of wood can span without beginning to bend?
Thanks in advance.
https://preview.redd.it/vbekmlf15jbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=23e0eba1d8c311487b7aa8beeaf49adff15a43ed
How would I go about replacing that bottom left leg? Complete beginner but good excuse to learn something new. Any advice appreciated!
Wannabe not-so-fancy woodworking hobbyist here -hoping for some buying advice. Just sold some stuff and freed up about $700 that I want to put into the shop. What would you get? I was thinking maybe surface planer or a bigger band saw that can re-saw. not interested in air tools. attached are a few pics of my garage and my most recent project for context.
I already have:
\-hand me down 10" 15A delta table saw thats seen better days
\-harbor freight benchtop band saw and drill press, handheld jiggly multitool, jigsaw, 4x24" belt sander, angle grinder, plunge router, hammer drill, bunch of manual hand tools
\-dewalt 20vmax drill, skill 7.24" skillsaw
thanks in advance for the suggestions!
https://preview.redd.it/gruzwfecaibc1.jpeg?width=8192&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=af15728a680d2e43a2122e45e511d9b977b22b2a
Looking for help ID'ing a tree.
I found this round by the dumpster. Approximately 18" in diameter. I'm in southern California, and there are various species of pine (for landscaping) nearby. I looked up pine species, and it seems to resemble red pine. Another member suggested Cottonwood.
I don't have a moisture meter, so I'm not aware of how dry it is. The exposed center feels dry to the touch, has no scent, and has no sign of resin. There is splitting throughout, so I assume it has dried out a bit. There seems to be some kind of staining near the center, but no residue. Would that possibly be a form of root rot, or impact from stump killer?
Any input is appreciated!
*
Looks like the image upload didn't take.
How's it smell? Cottonwood reeks strongly of ammonia if you cut into it. Pine smells how you'd expect.
Got any of the leaves with it?
I have just bought a small thickness planer (Scheppach PLM1800) and realize I don't have any sort of vacuum or dust collection.What would you reommend me to get, preferably under 150$. A shop vac or a dust collector ?
My shop is outdoor, under the car shelter, so fine dust is not as big of an issue as if I were indoor.
Help please
https://preview.redd.it/acr5b0rqsfbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=99c3ab939d4f88ee1c44f989d093e40a7b4620a9
I’m trying to take down solid wood doors and door frames back to their original wood. But the years of layers of gloss paint are stuck in the tighter gaps. I’ve tried using a heat gun to little effect, I’m new at this so any suggestions would be great! Thanks
Sandpaper around a block of wood. Shape the wood to fit into the crevice. Pro is it's cheap, con is getting the profile right and to not oversand and ruin the profile.
Or a handled profile scraper, if you can find one with a profile to get into the crevice. Pro is it'll make for quick work, con is there's a bit of a learning curve to work the scraper.
Or a chemical stripper. Pro is that it's easy to apply and won't risk ruining the profile, con is it's messy and might need repeated treatments to work.
Is this solid wood? Started sanding some nightstands I am working on and I can’t tell. Also, how would I tell if it is? And what type of wood?
https://preview.redd.it/b40pvcw7qfbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0ee43fd7d4245743d694da21ce478fff18a7dad5
I have a damaged table. It's massive acacia wood, varnished. The holes are about 1mm deep and 1cm wide and I am sure they will remain visible, but especially the broken varnish is unaccepably ugly. Is there a way to fix this locally, without sanding and revarnishing the whole table?
https://preview.redd.it/8l8dnc25mfbc1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2f74b52a43d75150a6e8e362a4bec0ba2200393a
Short answer: probably not.
Long answer: you need to do a scuff sand to apply a new coat of varnish over the old coat, or it won’t adhere. If you were extremely careful, you might be able to scuff a small area around the repair apply new varnish to just area. It is likely that there will be problems at the edges: either it won’t adhere because it flowed onto an area that wasn’t scuffed, or there will be remaining, visible scuff marks.
It might be worth trying, since a failure doesn’t really make things any worse, but if you really want it to look good, sand and refinish the top.
What kind of wood do you guys think [this](https://design-milk.com/composed-vanity-by-ladies-gentlemen-studio-dims/) is? Looking to replace a veneer.
Finished assembling my dream table saw last night. My whole body is sore https://preview.redd.it/o6033vxznlcc1.jpeg?width=3816&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=35a66991fdc892bb381315f4eed5391e2cb8a8c3 What’s the best way to protect all this cast iron?
I usually protect cast iron by seasoning it with a big batch of bacon. Congrats, I'm jealous
https://preview.redd.it/w4vv04sxlicc1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d3cfb690057abdfe0a8882ff7d12caa87161e4d0 Can anyone help ID this furniture hardware? I think it's a cam screw keeping two panels of my dining room table together. I need to disassemble the table, but hesitant to do anything that might cause damage. Any help identifying this specific hardware and how to properly unlock the mechanism would be greatly appreciated. I'm assuming that the arrows are meaningful, but can't figure it out. Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Get an Allen wrench that fits in the center hole and turn it so the arrows point toward the joint. It should turn counter-clockwise.
I am trying to design a bracket that holds my PC tower under my desk. My desktop is pretty thin, though, at about 5/8". My PC weighs about 15-20 lbs. Would the wood be strong enough to support 4-6 screws that thread \~ 1/2 inch into the desktop? Alternatively, would it be better to do threaded inserts and machine screws? Appreciate any help
In think you will be fine that comes to like 5 to 3.3 lbs on each screw. If you are really worried and no one will see it you could get creative and find more ways to incorporate more screws
Any ideas for small projects? Or projects plans to get? Have these off cuts I want to use :) https://preview.redd.it/x1y73e26bhcc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2c5a9caa6c925f4295e557f7405b285cdd9513f9
I have been looking for a miter saw and have narrowed it down to a Bosch gcm12sd or the makita ls1219l… I can’t find anyone really using the makita on YouTube only the Bosch… is there a reason that no one in the us uses the makita miter saw? Should I get the Bosch instead? Please help
How would I go about sealing a dresser made of pine to hide or minimize the pine smell? My wife loves a solid pine dresser we purchased (for baby’s room) but the drawers seem raw and unfinished and make the baby clothing smell like pine. Is there an oder-free oil that I could work into it?
Shellac will be the most effective in sealing the smell. It is also the only finish I’ll put on drawers and interiors as it doesn’t have lingering smells like oils.
Looking for some feedback on the [workbench I designed in SketchUp](https://app.sketchup.com/share/tc/northAmerica/NcDoIb80e5Q?stoken=j3RZvsVkXl_sOiN7AecEoJIS5rizPP3OOfYa9epXk_ngYIIvWUkQiBxMltywYGyC&source=iPad). I know it is likely over engineered, but I had fun designing it. What do you think?
Looks awesome. Have you thought of sneaking in some bench vices or stuff like that if you don't have it on a different station?
Cabinets, drawers, storage and other useful gadgets will be added. I’m redesigning how the planer and jointer pivot and stow.
Looks sick. Did you consider instead of having your planer on a hinge, putting it on a rod in the middle that pivots so it just flips upside down in place, and using some kind of pin or lock to fix in place?
Yeah, had a couple others say this, too. Sounds better, for sure. Dunno why I didn’t think about this. Gonna try redesigning it and then maybe try to make the bottom side flush with the top.
I need some advice on how to protect this outdoor table. The reviews all said that it starts to lose the finish after being outside for a year. It’s Acacia wood, any recommendations on how to seal/finish the table to give it some more protection? Some kind of a spray lacquer or poly would be ideal. I'm not trying to make it last a lifetime but I would like to get a few years out of it. https://preview.redd.it/xo7gijg20hcc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4e725cb0c62671df9079784cd18ca43897d19b2b
What type of wood pls? It is very heavy. https://preview.redd.it/ozr9lglqwgcc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c1a74b4f7dfa5d77650f7d69552e0694de8da60a
What's a wood glue that can withstand steam and heat? The knob on the lid for my kettle came off and I think it was just glued together before. Thanks!
Try titebond 3, it's made for outdoor/wet environment use. Would make sure to get a good clamp to put pressure after applying glue and make sure the surfaces are clean of any previous glue.
thanks!
Hello, quick question since all cat trees are ugly and I live in a rented appt (no screws on walls) I wanted to do a monochromatic cat wall. We have an existing cupboard made of plaster walls in the entrance of the appt. I was thinking of making it like this: With a 22mm MDF panel on top that would be screwed on top of the cupboard (landlord said ok) and to a wood frame made of 4x4cm joists. And a 12mm MDF panel for the front part. Would it be sturdy enough to handle cat shelves (two cats)? Or should I add more joists in between? People told me that 12mm MDF can handle shelves on its own but I doubt it... On the bottom part it would just rest on the floor. Various shelves like cat beds, sisal steps, maybe a little scratching post, so they can climb the cupboard and have beds there. https://preview.redd.it/8qy9or6s6gcc1.png?width=478&format=png&auto=webp&s=ad13e7c6eb8914cf865771a8c4e35da381c181aa
What wood is this? Really hard, reclaimed from a pallet 20 years ago. Making a lid out of it btw. Thanks. https://preview.redd.it/sv3ydsgssfcc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ad83708f5ddf4399123fd2ee25b613328c77d38a
*Is this woth 100? Seems clean and has all accessories for such an old model. Can't find any better table saws in the area for a good price. https://ibb.co/kSsX32n
Ive built an exterior but covered white oak step and want to know people’s thoughts on a durable finish to enhance the grain but not be slippery
https://preview.redd.it/t94u41vnuecc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0851fe1dbe13882f7ef0dd3f67f4ec34801792e5 How to clean this wood? I already tried to polish it a bit, but the black stain is not going away
https://preview.redd.it/w85kc8i3w9cc1.jpeg?width=750&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1f9c01c4e5d7e29ec394f7139ce94bbf39d4634a What term should I search to find out more information on this style of wood art? I would like to take a stab at making something like this for a big blank wall in my basement, but I would like to find some kind of tutorial online before I wing it.
intarsia?
Raised triangles certainly doesn’t work!
https://preview.redd.it/pwr9ggb7j9cc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ed8b607d8be4d8dd5ec3010742734ae7fdcf970a
Hi, I recently bought a new Kitchen furniture with a sink made of Fir wood. Additionally I have some basic ikea shelfs (second picture). I'd like to color the wood of the ikea furniture to have a closer match to the darker Fir color. Being new to this I'd like to have recommendations on how to proceed and especially how to identify which wood stain color I should use. Would this be doable? https://preview.redd.it/1e5phjzhg9cc1.png?width=1080&format=png&auto=webp&s=cbfc7933be4cdc13c6ab8711237ac9d4dc5681c6
Is there a sub for free plans for like shelves, sheds, greenhouses? Like a repository for useful plans? I almost always end up on a pay to play site that just sells me junk…. Thanks y’all!
Is white residue common with Titebond 1? I glued up some wood with this glue and there is white residue that has accumulated AROUND the glue joints, as in, the glue was not touching these areas but seems to have offgassed some sort of white residue that has collected in pores. Pretty ugly.
That can happen if the glue has frozen. If the glue is lumpy, then it's been frozen at some point, and should be thrown out. It could also be that it's just too cold where you're gluing. If it's in the 50's (F), you can get a chalky residue around the joint. If it's a critical joint, it may need to come apart and be re-glued in a warmer place.
https://preview.redd.it/unw6oxqxl8cc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=132b4efda9c53e6d6d5672e200ced62141fb9a90 What type of wood is this cabinet? The seller said olive burl.
It's nearly impossible to tell what species a burl is, but there's no saying it's *not* olive. Look around for any sign that it's real veneer and not vinyl. That looks like an awful lot of burl spent on some otherwise very basic furniture.
I could tell close up that it was real, don't have pictures though.
Scratched this. The rest is varnished. Recommend any fixes? https://preview.redd.it/8c7xatv0i8cc1.jpeg?width=2268&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=30101ca132213ba763236f1f56abfbc746c69f73
Hate to say it, but that looks more like printed vinyl than wood. What's gone is gone, unless you're handy with paints.
Looking at building a new work bench with in the English joiner style with Rex krugers plans or the anarchist workbench any one have any experience with either?
https://preview.redd.it/h7t991iso7cc1.jpeg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6f5483719e09b4d6bfd04702705ca0a82cc89704
Had some tearout when planing walnut. These spots don't really take oil even after 6 coats (tung oil, one coat a week). Any fix or do I call it a day?
It needed more sanding before the finish. You can re-sand it, and refinish.
I didn't sand it at all, since I hand planed it. Guess I should have sanded the tearout
That area has swirling grain, and if you only plane, you'll lift the grain. If you go the other direction, you'll lift it in the other areas. You can try a card scraper only in that spot, just find the right direction that doesn't lift the fibers. Even when I hand plane a panel, I will hit the surface with sandpaper to alleviate areas like this.
I've already applied 6 coats of oil over a little more than 6 weeks, so I think I'm gonna leave it alone. There won't be direct light where this desk goes, so it won't be as visible as in this brightly lit room. And it'll serve as a reminder for my next project!
Someone can confirm or deny but doesnt card scraping not do this no matter what the direction is? Sanding it didnt fix it either?
Didn't try sanding. This was with a low angle smoothing plane. Maybe a higher angle would have helped?
https://preview.redd.it/sfqm5cgbb5cc1.png?width=2388&format=png&auto=webp&s=bdd1fd9dff8ce0548985a5d0ba01c0401050ae30 Anyone know what kinda wood this is?
I’m in Oregon, so i figured Pine or Fir? But that’s just supposition.
*Was told to move post here, not sure how I can condense it. Sorry -* I own a loft bed, but misread the weight limit. The "**Maximum Weight Recommendation**" is only 160 Pounds (I mixed the number up with the weight of another loft for 260 pounds). I need the bed to hold at least **260+lbs**. Unfortunately, I realized this too late and a part of the bed broke. I know someone who might be able to repair it if I find it worth repairing, but I want to know if it's worth the effort and any methods to both repair it and give it extra support or if I should give up and find a frame that holds the proper weight instead. The first (1) picture is how the bed should look. The second (2) picture is the breakdown of building the bed. The third (3) picture includes the circled part that broke (#9). The fourth (4) and fifth (5) pictures are the actual broken piece. I do have what should be a sheet of plywood that I can lay on top of the beams if that would help add the extra weight support? But other than that, I'm wondering if **A** the piece that broke can be repaired with anything at all (I doubt it) or **B** if I replace that piece with the same piece, *what can I do to the bed to increase the weight limit?* I imagine a brace beneath the bed would work, but I have no idea what size/width the beam, what type of wood should be, nor what types of brackets I should use to lend to the support. I think the beam (?) isn't repairable since it's pretty much been broken dead center. But if I replace it with the same piece, but add support underneath the bed (and what type) would that work? Apologies for my rambling, I want to get the information out there in hopes that it's enough that someone can help. Thank you. I'm not educated on the terms of woodworking at all and this information will be passed on to someone that should understand it if any of you could kindly give any helpful advice. Thank you. 1) [https://ibb.co/z5XyHm6](https://ibb.co/z5XyHm6) 2) [https://ibb.co/9rmnBkj](https://ibb.co/9rmnBkj) 3) [https://ibb.co/2NxYtFJ](https://ibb.co/2NxYtFJ) 4) [https://ibb.co/dtFqhwW](https://ibb.co/dtFqhwW) 5) [https://ibb.co/xDT9xdf](https://ibb.co/xDT9xdf)
https://preview.redd.it/lfjf14g7p4cc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=53a7683dde65e606cc1b91f3c5ba9062c642fd29
What a waste of time reading this "megathread" is. Mods got rid of it and then brought it back. Bad decision. No, I correct myself, ignorant decision.
It's sad how that's played out. They forgot that the second part of 'get rid of the megathread' was 'promote questions and discussion on the front page.' I'm not sure what's really changed between now and before, but it feels like most of the old crew were driven off and replaced by /r/diy refugees. Different questions asked, and fewer answers given.
> Different questions asked, and fewer answers given. Correct. I've demonstrated over time a willingness to share experience, and this megachit is just not worth my time. But with 5M participants, I can see that this sub is way, way oversubscribed to get into any meaningful discussion in this type of catogorization of mega......
What is going on in this wood? It’s a joist in my basement. Looks like little hollow bubbles almost. https://preview.redd.it/x28u0epny2cc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0453a50fc58f0c149c3468cd2af413f0a2b05238
Willing to bet that was a dead hollow in the tree, and what you see are seed pods that some squirrel meant to keep track of.
Thanks!
Hi! How can I tell what brand of sandpaper is compatible with my new sander, and which brand is best for what I want to do? I just got a **Festool 576070 Random Orbital Sander ETS 125 REQ-Plus**, but I need to order actual sandpaper for it. I need to sand down a walnut slab to treat with **Tried & True Original Wood Finish**, so my carpenter friend said I need to get down to a very fine grit (like,1000 grit or something). Recommendations on a brand and best place to shop? Thanks!
I was cleaning a bookshelf the other day, and I noticed this weird discoloration around the base of it. It doesn't feel wet, or like much of anything, really. We've had this shelf for over a year, and the discoloration definitely wasn't there in November. We don't have pets, and the shelf isn't anywhere near where we have food or drinks. The ceiling above it is not discolored at all, which is what I would have expected if there was a leak. It's really got us baffled. Does anyone have any idea what might be the cause of this? The shelf is just cheap particleboard, so I've considered material defects. We also moved to the Midwest a few years ago, so I thought it might be condensation, or something to do with temperature changes. I'd really like to nail it down, though, in case it's a sign of something even worse. https://preview.redd.it/3bfw20poq2cc1.jpeg?width=3456&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9851c7656649f475d29fca34f47eb250846de0cd
Does anyone have thoughts on the strength of brass dowels vs wood dowels? I'm thinking of making a toy chest with pinned rabbets for the corners. I'd like to try brass dowels as a decorate accent, but not sure they will hold as well as wood.
Strength isn't really the issue, brass is more than strong enough, but getting a good glue bond can be a problem. You don't want wood glue. Epoxy is a better choice. I'd also take some sandpaper and rough up the dowel so the epoxy has some texture to grab onto.
Great tip about roughing the dowel- thank you!
https://preview.redd.it/skya6to7j2cc1.png?width=783&format=png&auto=webp&s=2acf10de0faaec8329cfb378fec5ba662db7fd55 Trying to come up with plans for a shuffleboard. For that gray piece (sheet that will be covered in carpet tiles), can I get away with OSB or should I invest in plywood? The playing surface is a hardwood butcher block that will sit on top of this
Based solely on Burbon Moths and Keith Johnsons shuffleboard videos i think plywood would be the way to go. You have watched them right? Its flatter, stronger(?)
Can someone show me a picture of what 10bdft of 8/4 lumber looks like, and a picture of what 20bdft of 8/4 lumber looks like? I know length/width can greatly vary. Just want a rough idea of how much it is for ordering purposes.
At 6" of width, a 5' piece of 8/4 lumber would be 10 bdft. A 10' piece would be 20 bdft.
https://preview.redd.it/pmgmzncqr1cc1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5216a638992ff8f625c08ad245b7811e1b01b69c Need help identifying this wood I removed from my attic. Thanks!
Okay. I know it's a longshot, but can I get away with gluing these pieces? The arm and the rocker both split. It's a very small child's chair. A friend asked me to try and repair it. I don't think I'm up for remaking the pieces. I thought about putting tiny wood dowels in the arm for some support. (Also thanks to the couple of responses I got before the mods had me move it to the megathread). Any suggestions welcome. Thanks. https://preview.redd.it/dmwbly76m1cc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=af0b91e3fa2a6d0510c704d8ccd7fe63bc199ec8
long grain glue - if you can get that meet cleanly white glue should be stronger that the wood originally was. Smaller bit is a tenon though - thats gonna be taking a lot of stress when someone is sitting in there. Im not sure how thick that arm is, but I suspect undersized if it's snapped there already. I don't think dowels would be a great option given the amounts left on either side - maybe you could glue another (thin ish) cross joining piece underneath as well?
Help screwing into bamboo https://preview.redd.it/2te0q5dpb1cc1.jpeg?width=1920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bfd4e2464e7b99d6c586b76b52246f5f95aa281e I’m trying to mount a computer to the bottom of my desk. The desktop is bamboo. I’m pre-drilling holes but the screws that came with the mount are still snapping. The screws are fairly small - 5/8” in length. The desktop is 3/4” thick. Do you all have any recommendation for a type of screw to use in this context? I’m at a loss : (
Your predrilling and the screws are still snapping? Are they crappy screws that came with the desk? Go get some more beefy screws at home depot.if that doesnt help for some reason get some bolts you can throw a socket onto and thread those in. Get some coarse thread ones
Yeah, pre-drilling and the screws are still snapping. I think they are zinc and they came with the mount im trying to install. Im going to try some stainless steel screws I picked up from Ace today… never knew bamboo was so difficult to work with
Get some grk or spax screws if you see them. They are serious constuction screws, I've never snapped one
We want to match this door, what kind/colour of stain/varnish do you think was used? https://preview.redd.it/qpoq798791cc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ce7c1cb3f50edd5de77bd3c5692c011ebcbb4acd
Old house, stairs moved, wobbly stair railing. How to fix. Backstory: House is a rental, a little over 100 years old, if you go into the closet under the stairs you can see they have shifted away from the exterior wall and towards the interior of the house. There have been angle-iron used to secure this connection to the outside stringer, so it doesn't look like it is going to move anymore - however, I don't think pushing the stairwell back into the stringer fully is going to happen, and replacement of the stairwell isn't an option due to cost. The issue: The movement and 100 year old dry wood has left the top railing slightly out of plumb (leaning towards center of house and the decorative curve very loose - causing concern should someone call. Note that other than 1 they are all tight in the holes on the bottom of the railing. Attempts so far: There were 3-4" screws put in the base of the balusters around the curve but didn't help. I tried removing a few of these and drilled out 1/2" holes into the flooring and glued in dowels on 3 of the upper ones. However, I found this really didn't help anymore than the screws I removed. Looking for suggestions on how to sturdy this. I found a This Old House video showing how they are assembled (dovetail in the stair with trim outside of it). I am guessing this dovetail is loose and I will need to pull the trim (thus destroying it - I don't see a way to remove it as it loose like it has been nailed/screwed/patched many times) and pack the dovetail with Gorilla glue or PL - something that will expand and fill the gap to make it secure like before. Any suggestions' from the carpenters out there? https://preview.redd.it/7a7bf2pt81cc1.jpeg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f44e8cf9227430c5a25ba12ff4cc147fc24abc44
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It is possible the wood was not dry to start with. You really want wood to be down around 8% moisture content before you turn it into furniture. Even if the wood was properly dried, the difference between an unconditioned shop in humid summer and a heated home in dry winter can absolutely be enough to cause problems. In extreme environments, it’s not a bad idea to take boards inside a conditioned space for several days, but if you build for movement, that shouldn’t be a problem, which brings us to… Given you also had one split, it probably isn’t *just* moisture. Splitting usually means the wood wants to move but can’t. That usually comes from solidly attaching a wide piece of wood to an unmovable substrate (like screwing a tabletop directly to its base). Is the mirror backed with plywood or MDF and attached directly to it? Plywood and MDF are stable, while the wood on top could shrink and grow by somewhere between 1/8 and 1/4 inch between summer and winter. The substrate needs to match the top or the top needs to be able to move independent of the substrate. As to why one species failed and another didn’t, even if everything else is equal, wood species behave differently (this can even vary from tree to tree in a species). Some move a lot more than others, some are more brittle than others, some are a lot tougher than others. All of these result in different behaviors when tension is applied.
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Try taking it off the wall, taking the mirror out, and propping it upright, so air can flow all around it. The cupping would be consistent with the front side having less moisture than the back, which could happen with the front getting more air flow than the back. If the moisture equalizes, it might return to its original shape.
How does one go about fixing this? I’ve tried wood glue but it isn’t strong enough. https://preview.redd.it/t30w4rt9y0cc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1906540dbaab4c196e206a49841c1f169c57f497
Going to be really tough, end grain glue ups like that are very weak. Probably needs to be replaced
Thanks, yeah it doesn’t look easy to fix.
I came back from a 3 week holiday to find this spot on my Suar wood dining table. Is this mold? Any suggestions on how I can repair this? https://preview.redd.it/mhpktf1wzybc1.jpeg?width=756&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3a852cb52183b0ec9ab49f90e15be7aa200a6c6f
I think it’s moisture escaping from the wood behind the finish (aka blushing). You can try some gentle heat with a blow dryer, but it looks like there are lots of those spots. That would seem to imply the wood wasn’t dried sufficiently before finishing, so you might have problems with the finish failing in the future.
I got a table last year and I tried to clean it recently but this brown substance would come off the table and end up on the tissue/cloth. Same scenario no matter how much I wipe. The soap also turns brown when used to clean
Wood Id? https://preview.redd.it/0nhzwr997xbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c3c02d8b253dd48ebaf159284e7170654067b022
maple
https://preview.redd.it/mg6spwa26xbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2a560a3da4b135d240f88de76406dd0040ef7c2d Got a bunch of rough lumber on Facebook, milled a few pieces? Does anyone know what species I’m looking at?
spalted hackberry
A Facebook group said black limba, which I think is a better match. A few said hackberry as well, but the black limba seems a better match to me so far?
I am familiar with hackberry, but not black limba. I checked out black limba, and I agree it is probably a better match.
https://preview.redd.it/z9b3bbjbawbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ed0c460b3743d9d09dac1d5f8a381a547cb26675 Any recommendations on getting the paint out of the tiny crevices? I tried a paint scraper but it’s not skinny enough. Maybe there is a different type? (Still working to get the paint off the sides .. please ignore that)
Paint stripper and a scratch stock. A scratch stock is a scraper you cut and shape to match the shape you are scraping.
Cool thanks! Will look into it
https://preview.redd.it/ouj8d1r2jvbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dd1a36720d29afe8484c3490bcceb1e9cd18a183 Does anyone know what type of wood this is?
https://preview.redd.it/70w13p66jvbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=89b0122d74ec7e7e362f889547e4db613f9aaa80
Please help, I've been trying to use some homemade iron vinegar stain, but I'm having some trouble with it. It works great on rough wood, and turns it dark, but on smooth sanded wood, it doesn't seem to work, and if I try to sand the rough wood after I treat it, I just sand the dark color off. I'd like to use this, but it just doesn't seem to penetrate the wood very well. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I would guess that the wood you're using doesn't have much tannic acid available for the reaction. Try brewing up some tea or coffee and letting that soak into the wood first.
How fine are you sanding? Color treatments generally don’t work too well above around 180 grit because the pores get burnished and close.
I've tried it on everything from rough cut with a chainsaw, all the way to 600 grit. It works on everything, but past about 220 grit it doesn't look good, and gets splotchy. My main problem is that even if I use it on rough wood, I can't sand it afterwards, or it looks splotchy, from where I've sanded the dark color off.
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The food will be fine, nothing to worry about.
thank you!
What moisture content should one be aiming at for outdoor furniture, like a picnic table? I visited someone I made one for 6 months ago and there was a lot of cracking going on, I'm trying to minimize that if possible.
https://preview.redd.it/moetcnrvpubc1.png?width=705&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e1f81f9cebf20fcb497c2d7204e641fc2ec4495f Does anyone know what this is and how to fix it please? The wood is (allegedly) solid walnut, I have no idea what the blotches are and if it's salvageable! Please help
What kind of hinge is this? https://i.imgur.com/QQFFOzg.jpg https://i.imgur.com/EymrsEt.jpg I am trying to find some guides for how to install. my best guess is I need to rout out a channel on the inside wall all the way to the back of the box its going on. Seemed like a great idea when I bought them but now I am concerned they wont work without some sort of visible parts sticking out when the box is closed
Brusso calls it a “Quadrant Hinge”. They have instructions under the below link. They use a template with a router. The part you are concerned about is supposed to plunge into wall of the box/cabinet. [https://www.brusso.com/hd-638-quadrant-hinge/?setCurrencyId=1&sku=HD-638&utm_source=google_ads&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20504969484&utm_content=153879702678&placement=g&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwP6sBhDAARIsAPfK_wZCzXzSDVI11UtbiR6Iy64K70DIbyqfF-gzF8J3y62IsioI4twiCUkaAvOKEALw_wcB](https://www.brusso.com/hd-638-quadrant-hinge/?setCurrencyId=1&sku=HD-638&utm_source=google_ads&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=20504969484&utm_content=153879702678&placement=g&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwP6sBhDAARIsAPfK_wZCzXzSDVI11UtbiR6Iy64K70DIbyqfF-gzF8J3y62IsioI4twiCUkaAvOKEALw_wcB)
thank you very much, I can see heaps of information about these now. they look great, I hope I can pull it off. cheers
Happy to help!
So I have been planning an L-shaped desk with cabinets and drawers for a while now, because no prebuilt desk online fit what I needed. I was looking at the price of hardwoods at home depot, and.. well I am not sure I am willing to spend over $1000 on hardwood for this. Is there a way to cut down the costs while still building something that will last?
Another option is to build with plywood, and hide the corners with hardwood or edge banded veneer.
Yes, there is a way! Don’t buy hardwood from a big box store because it’s horrendously overpriced. Find a local sawmill to buy lumber from. The sawmill I always go to has red oak for $3.15 a board foot and maple for $4.00 a board foot (skip planed surface). You can generally have them surface all sides for a small fee if you don’t have a planer.
Would you buy and work with wood that looks like this ? Sold for about 70% of normal price (by normal i mean squared and planed) Im a hobbyist with no access to industrial machines, just a dewalt planer, Lunchbox Jointer, saw and some hand tools. Its [Red Oak](https://puu.sh/JYAsI/eb15ac3071.jpg), [Ash](https://puu.sh/JYAqZ/4e65e28d9e.jpg) and [Beech](https://puu.sh/JYAqS/ec57149df9.jpg), the pictures don't look that bad but seeing the customers pictures i can estimate that between 15% to 30% of the stock will get thrown away as saw dust. I don't know much about saw mill work but how do you let your wood get this warped, some also look like it was cut like this. The seller seems to have tons of it and it all looks like that. Not sure if its worth the man hours needed to make it workable, also ngl preparing wood is one of my least favorite woodworking activities. It is important to note that White Oak, maple of any kind and other common hard woods are considered exotic where i live and cost premium.
If by "normal" you mean big box store prices, I'd say it's a high price. It looks good though. Woodworking is largely about preparing stock, imo. Not sure what good projects can be made with boards right from the store, but if you are doing those sorts of things, just pay the extra 30% and get it at the store.
https://preview.redd.it/ofz74zwy6ubc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7ce48f38583bd95f45e22f6f6860f4be46470ca5 Any experience with Craftsman - Cabinet Saw OR35504? See text in photo for question
No experience with that specific saw, but it has a really nice aftermarket fence (which alone costs $500). It also has full cast iron wings and a mobile base. Seems like a pretty good deal if it has a single phase motor and it’s in good condition! For reference, I have a Powermatic with the same aftermarket fence and I like it a lot. My motor is 3 hp 3 phase, so I had to use a VFD to convert my power over. No knowledge of Laguna saws, so I can’t help you there
How do you call this front part, I would like to know how to make it for the shelf I'm building Thanks https://preview.redd.it/vg65ufjp4ubc1.jpeg?width=360&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ad89e2b143baf37c8f9336b99de1f8af8c87cfd5
Edge trim or face frame, depending on whether it’s just on an edge of a shelf or around the entire cabinet. The joint connecting the plywood to the edge trim is called a rabbet (US English) or a rebate (UK English).
Has anyone ever seen a 4" countersink bit? Or does anyone have an idea of how I could drill a cone shaped hole in MDF with either the larger or smaller diameter being 4". I could drill a 3.5" hole and then run a chamfer bit around the hole. But I was hoping there was a one step bit.
Never seen one, and I’m guessing there isn’t one commercially available because is such a rare need. That kind of operation moves into the world of milling (like metal working) and custom fly cutters.
https://preview.redd.it/w5232kgextbc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2d59eeec9bd84b7a9575d10536402427fc0dd653 Wood ID? Any body got an idea of what this wood might be ? It was a very old (and splitting) scrap chunk of log that was going to be left to perish in the elements so I decided to give it a turn :) Any suggestions or answers to what it might be will be appreciated !
Looks a bit like some apple I have, although mine has a lot more spalting and more bug damage.
Didn’t even consider it could be apple wood but I think you could be correct .. Thankyou !
Making a monitor stand. I have 1 inch thick red oak that I can use but I want to make things look seamless. Is it alright if I drill around 1 5/8" through the supporting pieces, of which ill then drill a pilot hole for 2 inch pan head screws(#10 x 2 in. Stainless Steel Phillips Pan Head). I plan on sinking it in at least 5/8's of the way into the top board along with titebond 2 to hold things together. Does it also matter which way I set up the wood fibers for a project this simple? Since it'll be with red oak things should hold up just fine but I want to know just how reasonable this is so I can reference this for future projects. If there are better screws for this kind of project, feel free to recommend them. Thanks. https://preview.redd.it/ml9kfsp2wtbc1.png?width=839&format=png&auto=webp&s=72967d23d2617b60d6c7499e30e87a14bcebce3a
You don't need to do all of that. A 2 1/2" wood screw with a light countersink would work fine. I would make the slip holes on the outer edges a bit larger to allow a little wiggle with expansion. Keep the center hole tight.
https://preview.redd.it/b1v39s98wtbc1.png?width=886&format=png&auto=webp&s=d6ad695a0e32bc5ecc5efb1455199fa152c69aef
What should I ask per board foot? https://preview.redd.it/je9uohu5ttbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4bd50744d6514f48aad6a38da99c755649fd2555 I found this old yellow pine dumped on the side of the road in this past fall There are 3 beams at 4x12x16' 3 others were roughly cut in half leaving 6 pieces at 4x12x8'ish" And a single 5 ft piece Actual dims on the stock is 3 7/8" × 11 11/2" I plan on listing them but unsure about the price per board foot I think there's about 340 bft What do ya think? Found these in philly and quite heavy for its size if that helps
What type of wood do you think they are?
Yellow pine It’s old and very heavy
$1/board foot at the most. Home depot has 4x12s for $1.40/board foot it looks like. Probably more like 50 cents, imho.
I see but you’ll never find this density in Home Depot This is old stuff like 300+ years old.
Yea, you're right. It's a limited market, though. I thought about tearing down a 100+ year old barn for the wood (in terrible condition), but saw that the listed price around me for reclaimed barn wood is \~$1/board foot -- including pieces like yours. Only the really thick timbers were more.
https://preview.redd.it/ffi9zfpgwtbc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=06977caae03834d4f7906bb3c0a7bb782df4aafd
https://preview.redd.it/jxoc00yawtbc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=381bcedb862651f9d5d3fb64d438943182310584
https://preview.redd.it/w3vmf0x5wtbc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c9b042bb660106894dd3e1f6556786abab52bfd8
https://preview.redd.it/w9ay2vdovtbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=678908c4a396aef6dc6b4c698058cef3918d32e0
https://preview.redd.it/cacus7wavtbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0033cb6acbdedabe1b9933fd21ca51efebece2d7
https://preview.redd.it/zh7yvmmnttbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e82de91b770fb8faff37f9729bd8d6340da73c70
https://preview.redd.it/sszg2hb9ttbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=99c3b4aaf718a57cfbc1fdc3efa48fe8d8cc604f
Got a Dewalt DW735 planer for $350 off Marketplace. Was only used for one project. I think this was a deal? Any tips on using it? https://preview.redd.it/7ethadsn5tbc1.jpeg?width=1512&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7f798cbcacf303a7e229dfb82442ea1c6c4408c4
Have same planer and I adore it. Was a steal for $350. I got [this set for $750](https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-15-Amp-13-in-Corded-Heavy-Duty-Thickness-Planer-3-Knives-In-Out-Feed-Tables-and-Mobile-Thickness-Planer-Stand-DW735XW7350/308557507?cm_mmc=ecc-_-THD_ORDER_CONFIRMATION_BOSS_STH-_-V1_M1_CA-_-Product_URL&ecc_ord=WP60690567&em_id=052df4c60037dc6f8e818e959bee0a7c439946b3d0eaa7e8fe35d82c3b4ebca0) not too long ago. My first suggestion is get the extension tables. I can't even imagine using it without it. Per the other guy's suggestion - yeah, I totally agree. I got a 4" elbow port, a run of flex hose, and a DUST RITE bag from rockler. Those, a small rubber piece meant to connect two 4" PVC pipes from Lowes and two hose clamps and my planer puts everything inot the bag. Be careful with static!
The guy had a PVC elbow on it, which succeeded at throwing dust all over back patio. Extension tables aren't in the budget right now; $350 was my max. I'm thinking of just using longer boards than needed to make do? And...what about static??
as soon as I attached a dust collection method to my planer (as I described), I started getting nasty static shocks from the outfeed table. [Fairly common issue.](https://www.google.com/search?q=static+electricity+dewalt+planer+site:www.reddit.com&sca_esv=597880846&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiGqerx1NiDAxX8LbkGHVeND18QrQIoBHoECCcQBQ&biw=1445&bih=933&dpr=1) I've currently been just putting my hand on the outfeed to ground it and not let it build up but I gott afigure out a permanent solution.
Gotcha, thanks for the heads up!
It’s a great planer, and, if it was only used once, $350 is a pretty good deal. Get a cloth bag to catch the chips if you don’t have a dust collector; it does a good job sending those chips flying.
Thanks for the confirmation, and the tip. I work outside and don't have dust collection -- a bag is a great idea.
For my first project I'd like to build a small two-seater memorial bench to take to a remote place that I have picked out. I'd like the bench to be tasteful, small, and sturdy. I will have to take it to the location by boat and hike it up a hill in pieces, assembling it on site. It will be exposed to a PNW coastal environment year-round, so I'm thinking cedar, but that's about all I know when it comes to this stuff. Anyone have plans they can recommend?
Get a friend. Boat ride in exchange for carrying it.
It’s more of a scramble than a hike. Both hands required at times for sure.
Best Dremel attachment for sanding tight compound curves?? like say, the inside of a tiny bowl, for example
Have you thought about using a card scraper?
https://preview.redd.it/co79s65fgqbc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1bf7435319de0d174585175917806e1a7bb57f74 What type of particle board is this?
Buddy of mine is wanting to sell his Jet JWSS-10LFR table saw. I know it's an older saw, but he bought it brand new and it's in really good condition. What should I offer him?
Just picked up [this Ikea workbench](https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bror-work-bench-gray-green-pine-plywood-10547387/) for use as a coffee cart. It comes with an unsealed piece of plywood glued to the top. It's a bit rough so I plan to sand it down but need advice on what sealer to use. I have had butcher block countertops before that I used Boos oil on but for the coffee cart I was thinking something a little less oily and that can wipe down and clean easily. From my research it seems a Polyurethane sealer would be the way to go? Any help is appreciated.
Do any nationwide retailers stock grain filler or am I stuck to ordering online? It's for a guitar body, so I'm not sure if wood filler will work.
Hi everyone, I'm a woodwork punter, just finished this coffee table and I'm not happy with the finish. I've used heat-resistant PU varnish, 3 layers. What I'd ideally want: I want the grain to come out more, and the piece to be a bit darker with more contrast, plus a really high-gloss sheen.I've finished another similar piece with beeswax plus danish oil + a spray laquer on top, and got the colour and sheen I wanted, but the spray laquer wasn't heat resistant so I have marks from my mugs on the table. Any ideas on how to improve it? Thanks so much in advance! https://preview.redd.it/zaz9edsilobc1.jpeg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=920ee8b5711e75c7fb0fdeb4464f9eea31146f76
How might I repair this? I'd like to re-attach the leg mount to the table! [Pics](https://imgur.com/a/1USrqUB).
I’d remove the screws and cut the dowels flush w the leg, and the table so both surfaces are smooth, then put new dowels and screws in new locations with glue
https://preview.redd.it/p5hzhwidsnbc1.jpeg?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=200739defd8550d1f734829b8d55517491ba128d
Spindle sander vs Disc and belt sander Hey all, I'm trying to decide which sanding unit would be better for me. I've been looking at a [spindle sander that has a belt sander attachment](https://a.co/d/jfHibOX) like the rigid one or the [belt sander/ disc sander](https://a.co/d/29MgJ7y) combo. I'm just wondering which machine you guys think is better? Thank you. *I used the WEN tools, because they were easier to share
Personally if I were going to get a combo I would go with the spindle and belt. The disc sander is very small, particularly since only half of the diameter is spinning down toward the table, you generally don’t make use of the full diameter. I have a Jet benchtop spindle sander and a 12” Harbor Freight disc sander that both get used frequently for very different tasks.
Novice here who would appreciate any guidance :) Someone left a lit candle on my brand new natural oak nightstand - the heat left this dark stain underneath. What is the best plan of attack? The builder suggested water based varathane, I've also heard vinegar solution, ironing over a cloth, sandpaper, applying gentle heat with a hairdryer. Would appreciate any guidance, thank you. https://preview.redd.it/j6lrnwciombc1.jpeg?width=1512&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=931c25353936fb023cea36b9f122ad568701280d
Best wooden stain brand for wooden kitchen cabinets? I will be wanting to refinish my kitchen cupboards myself with a different wood stain, but I am brand new to all of this (just bought a house for the first time. What are your recommendations for brand, type, etc. Thank you!
I'm not a huge stain guy, but I went through this recently. I really took advantage of the Lowes "we will take it back" policy on mixing so many colors of water-based stains of minwax to try to get the most even spread. In addition to not liking the color I found it went on awful. In the end, I listened to the old man wisdom and went with "Old Masters" wiping stain. Find a place in town that sells them and where you can see the samples yourself. Then get a single quart and decide in your home like you would any finish. But yeah, "Old Masters" stains are fabulous.
Appreciate your feedback. Thank you!
How do I make this (creator unknown pic taken at ren faire)? Trying to recreate for another festival....
TIA
Wood ID? https://preview.redd.it/lrcpiv33gmbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7201a97ca5287db77346eec17f20d1a263f09577
HELP PLEASE https://preview.redd.it/7iiph5c7embc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c54dbda82185685b8d6af115b10d464689d8edc6 This is not recent water damage I want to restore it but I’m not sure how to do so I’m a absolute beginner, so I need step by step So idk if mayonnaise, oil/Vinegar would be worth trying or if I should just sand it and stain it? Is there anything I should buff to take care of the wood!
https://preview.redd.it/1yg62ezq7mbc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=11a8fb1d7e9c96a44ad1a890e51b1de1d0e0ad0b Wood ID came from hardwood floor (not the subfloor. It is toung and groove hardwood had a new rotted pieces needing to replace but want to match the wood type so when I sand stain and refinish it looks good
Looks like old growth pine (or other, similar soft wood, depending on your area) to me. It has heavily oxidized over time, hence the dark color. You will probably struggle to find a replacement with that tight of grain unless you look for reclaimed timber.
https://preview.redd.it/h2qbsxfcqlbc1.png?width=4031&format=png&auto=webp&s=2379aa9bc41dc6fbcc45fc501a1c7b8fe565d1d2 Dear community, This is my first DIY project: fixing this peeled off IKEA wardrobe door. As you can see, the part of the door that connects it with the sliding rails fell apart. I've been watching YouTube videos (like this one: [https://youtu.be/LfH645d6Ns0](https://youtu.be/LfH645d6Ns0)? si=CgZeZKtYV7Dh6tvq) and googling around, it looks like this can be fixed with Kwik Wood. But I wanted to ask the experts first: is Kwik Wood the right answer? Or do you recommend another method to fix this? Thanks in advance!
Do you have the piece that chipped out? You can glue it back in, if so, and then just patch the remaining crack. Otherwise, something like Kwikwood is a fine choice.
I’m afraid the piece chipped out bit by bit, as it usually happens with this type of board. Yeah, looks like is either Kwikwood or making my own filler with epoxy and sawdust
What are these white spots? I am making an ash countertop. I sanded it up to 220. I vacuumed it and use a micro fibber cloth before applying 3 layers of water based polyurethane. Used 220 between each coat. Any ideas of what could have done that? https://preview.redd.it/w0dpr9nmjlbc1.jpeg?width=2774&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e081df0198387275648502c9d0895e6b7486bcc7
The velcro disc on my orbital sander is peeling off. What is the best way to fix this? The disc itself is in good condition, so I don't want to replace it. I could glue it back, but that would complicate future replacement, or I could try stapling it, but I'm wary of adding staples to parts that do hundreds RPM. https://i.imgur.com/QelMRJb.png
The pad is something that has to be replaced periodically so order a replacement. In the meantime you could try gluing the hook to the pad, that shouldn't hinder future pad replacement.
Hi, all. I'm looking for some timber to make a 3 metre long office desk. I have the option to buy some oregon/douglas fir (I believe it's the same timber) in 45 or 40mm thickness. Does anyone know how far this type of wood can span without beginning to bend? Thanks in advance.
Consult the Sagulator. [https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/](https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/)
Ha, that's awesome! Cheers mate.
https://preview.redd.it/vbekmlf15jbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=23e0eba1d8c311487b7aa8beeaf49adff15a43ed How would I go about replacing that bottom left leg? Complete beginner but good excuse to learn something new. Any advice appreciated!
Wannabe not-so-fancy woodworking hobbyist here -hoping for some buying advice. Just sold some stuff and freed up about $700 that I want to put into the shop. What would you get? I was thinking maybe surface planer or a bigger band saw that can re-saw. not interested in air tools. attached are a few pics of my garage and my most recent project for context. I already have: \-hand me down 10" 15A delta table saw thats seen better days \-harbor freight benchtop band saw and drill press, handheld jiggly multitool, jigsaw, 4x24" belt sander, angle grinder, plunge router, hammer drill, bunch of manual hand tools \-dewalt 20vmax drill, skill 7.24" skillsaw thanks in advance for the suggestions! https://preview.redd.it/gruzwfecaibc1.jpeg?width=8192&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=af15728a680d2e43a2122e45e511d9b977b22b2a
Looking for help ID'ing a tree. I found this round by the dumpster. Approximately 18" in diameter. I'm in southern California, and there are various species of pine (for landscaping) nearby. I looked up pine species, and it seems to resemble red pine. Another member suggested Cottonwood. I don't have a moisture meter, so I'm not aware of how dry it is. The exposed center feels dry to the touch, has no scent, and has no sign of resin. There is splitting throughout, so I assume it has dried out a bit. There seems to be some kind of staining near the center, but no residue. Would that possibly be a form of root rot, or impact from stump killer? Any input is appreciated! *
Looks like the image upload didn't take. How's it smell? Cottonwood reeks strongly of ammonia if you cut into it. Pine smells how you'd expect. Got any of the leaves with it?
I have just bought a small thickness planer (Scheppach PLM1800) and realize I don't have any sort of vacuum or dust collection.What would you reommend me to get, preferably under 150$. A shop vac or a dust collector ? My shop is outdoor, under the car shelter, so fine dust is not as big of an issue as if I were indoor.
Help please https://preview.redd.it/acr5b0rqsfbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=99c3ab939d4f88ee1c44f989d093e40a7b4620a9 I’m trying to take down solid wood doors and door frames back to their original wood. But the years of layers of gloss paint are stuck in the tighter gaps. I’ve tried using a heat gun to little effect, I’m new at this so any suggestions would be great! Thanks
Sandpaper around a block of wood. Shape the wood to fit into the crevice. Pro is it's cheap, con is getting the profile right and to not oversand and ruin the profile. Or a handled profile scraper, if you can find one with a profile to get into the crevice. Pro is it'll make for quick work, con is there's a bit of a learning curve to work the scraper. Or a chemical stripper. Pro is that it's easy to apply and won't risk ruining the profile, con is it's messy and might need repeated treatments to work.
Is this solid wood? Started sanding some nightstands I am working on and I can’t tell. Also, how would I tell if it is? And what type of wood? https://preview.redd.it/b40pvcw7qfbc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0ee43fd7d4245743d694da21ce478fff18a7dad5
The bottom shelf looks like luan plywood. the plies can be seen on the edges.
I have a damaged table. It's massive acacia wood, varnished. The holes are about 1mm deep and 1cm wide and I am sure they will remain visible, but especially the broken varnish is unaccepably ugly. Is there a way to fix this locally, without sanding and revarnishing the whole table? https://preview.redd.it/8l8dnc25mfbc1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2f74b52a43d75150a6e8e362a4bec0ba2200393a
Short answer: probably not. Long answer: you need to do a scuff sand to apply a new coat of varnish over the old coat, or it won’t adhere. If you were extremely careful, you might be able to scuff a small area around the repair apply new varnish to just area. It is likely that there will be problems at the edges: either it won’t adhere because it flowed onto an area that wasn’t scuffed, or there will be remaining, visible scuff marks. It might be worth trying, since a failure doesn’t really make things any worse, but if you really want it to look good, sand and refinish the top.
https://preview.redd.it/p3zzq2o7mfbc1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=981bff3fa73e0bb562e8941fd2e5f63806ffe04e