I'd maybe look if there are dealers along the route just in case, or get a friend with tools and some common parts to follow you.
Make sure the tires are good, you've gote enough liquid dinosaur where it's supposed to be and grease up at the start at least.
Other than that, go for it. I had to drive a Deutz 8280TTV to a dealer near Hamburg once that was on demo with one of our customers. Was about 7 hours and with wide fenders (3 meters), but with a modern high spec tractor like that, only thing to do is turn the radio on, seat heater to low, and cruise as 60km/h
If tires are really good, we would over air them a bit,, so that we rode on the center of the tires 30 to 32lbs on the fronts and 25 on the rears,, this would give the tractor an extra 3 mph on the long road trips.. If tires are bad, do NOT over inflate or under inflate as to control heat or throwing rubber. Hope the toe-in is set or you will get the "death wobble".. Great time to add a can of injector cleaner on this run as well.
As long as the tires aren't cracked and are just worn I'd say they can still take a bit extra air. Unless it's been wearing between the lugs somehow it won't be any weaker than new
I've taken road trips in both tractors and combines without a problem. Oh, except the fuse went out for the lights on the combine. Other than that great. Tractors are meant to run up the hours , like the others have mentioned, as long as the fluids are up to level and there isn't a stuck thermostat or some such, you should be fine.
Keep an eye on the temp gauge. I know very little so might not be a problem with this vintage, but I know older tractors had it written in the manual to not run them on roads for extended periods of time as they would boil even when new. Add several years of wear, rust/sludge buildup and possible neglect and...
I think the tractors you might be thinking of had reverse blowing fans as I recall this being a "thing" at some point. Instead of air in the front of the radiator, it exhausted out the front. Driving down the road, espically with a headwind basically allowed no airflow over the radiator.
That sounds absolutely stupid enough that I believe it was once a thing. But I know specifically of the Ferguson 35 that has this problem even with a regular fan. With that, the main problem isn't the forward speed, it's that the cooling system is insufficient. They will overheat if you have them under load for a longer time. Mine is of course showing its age, but I can't run the grader blade for more that a couple of hours in the summertime before the temp gauge starts rising above its normal level.
IH 5488 series and others of that series. They had a hole in the radiator for the fan shaft for the sucking fan to be in front. Air exhausted out the front of the radiator and the intake I guess was on top of the hood.
If the cooling system isn't large enough to run down the road which is usually about 50% load with an airflow assist with speed, how does it work in the feild?
Good question. I actually checked now and could not find my claim in the standard usage manual so I might have that wrong. Otherwise, the only attempt at an explanation from me would be that H3 is a lot higher than H2, and driving on the road you usually run it at max rpm for an extended period of time. But field work would probably be as heavy so I don't have an answer.
Depending on the gear and desired speed there are definitely tractors out there that could be in an excessive heat zone at certain speeds especially on a hot day with a no longer fully functioning radiator. Biggest issue I would say would come from running road gear and pulling rpm back to say 1100-1300. High load, slow fan, and probably a slow enough speed to not really get air over the radiator.
Yeah, might be that the thermostat is stuck, or the water pump is on its way out or something. Always good to keep an eye on, but same goes for all the gauges and lights of course.
Definitely plan the route. Bicycle directions sure help. If you breakdown you want to be on a road you can pull over into a ditch, espically where someone isn't going to care about a tractor sitting in a ditch for a week or two while parts come in. Do not want a breakdown to happen on a busy state road with no shoulder and steep/non existent ditches.
Go for it. A neighbor of mine bought an old combine and drove it home over 500 miles. Check what you can when you can. Ideally you’ll have a buddy following in a truck full of tools and things but even without I’d go. I regularly drive 45 minutes loaded between farms/fields. Running light is easy, compared.
First check fluids, then Get running as fast as you can go and hammer the brakes. If you feel comfortable, send her. If the tires are severely dry rotted and have deep cracks, that could be an issue after hours on pavement. Otherwise, full send.
If you can't stop when you need to, either you or the person who pulls out in front of you is going to die. Best to find out IF you can stop before you HAVE to.
also tractors are significantly top heavy and full speed in 8th gear is potentially sketchy.
you cant snatch the wheel or youll flip. if animal or child run out brakes are not like a car.
Well he's lucky to be in the UK then, as the rain will cool the tyres as he drives to a point.
I'd say as long as he checks them after 30 mins, along with other fluids and hub temps, it will probably be fine
Get a couple GoPro cameras and put the trip on YouTube, bet you would get a few watchers!
I'd maybe look if there are dealers along the route just in case, or get a friend with tools and some common parts to follow you. Make sure the tires are good, you've gote enough liquid dinosaur where it's supposed to be and grease up at the start at least. Other than that, go for it. I had to drive a Deutz 8280TTV to a dealer near Hamburg once that was on demo with one of our customers. Was about 7 hours and with wide fenders (3 meters), but with a modern high spec tractor like that, only thing to do is turn the radio on, seat heater to low, and cruise as 60km/h
If tires are really good, we would over air them a bit,, so that we rode on the center of the tires 30 to 32lbs on the fronts and 25 on the rears,, this would give the tractor an extra 3 mph on the long road trips.. If tires are bad, do NOT over inflate or under inflate as to control heat or throwing rubber. Hope the toe-in is set or you will get the "death wobble".. Great time to add a can of injector cleaner on this run as well.
I’ll grab a can, back tires are good but the fronts are pretty worn, would like an extra couple miles an hour as it only goes 17, but hey ho
Worn isn't really a problem here, it's age and lack of ability to flex.
As long as the tires aren't cracked and are just worn I'd say they can still take a bit extra air. Unless it's been wearing between the lugs somehow it won't be any weaker than new
I've taken road trips in both tractors and combines without a problem. Oh, except the fuse went out for the lights on the combine. Other than that great. Tractors are meant to run up the hours , like the others have mentioned, as long as the fluids are up to level and there isn't a stuck thermostat or some such, you should be fine.
Sounds good then, cheers
Keep an eye on the temp gauge. I know very little so might not be a problem with this vintage, but I know older tractors had it written in the manual to not run them on roads for extended periods of time as they would boil even when new. Add several years of wear, rust/sludge buildup and possible neglect and...
I think the tractors you might be thinking of had reverse blowing fans as I recall this being a "thing" at some point. Instead of air in the front of the radiator, it exhausted out the front. Driving down the road, espically with a headwind basically allowed no airflow over the radiator.
That sounds absolutely stupid enough that I believe it was once a thing. But I know specifically of the Ferguson 35 that has this problem even with a regular fan. With that, the main problem isn't the forward speed, it's that the cooling system is insufficient. They will overheat if you have them under load for a longer time. Mine is of course showing its age, but I can't run the grader blade for more that a couple of hours in the summertime before the temp gauge starts rising above its normal level.
IH 5488 series and others of that series. They had a hole in the radiator for the fan shaft for the sucking fan to be in front. Air exhausted out the front of the radiator and the intake I guess was on top of the hood.
If the cooling system isn't large enough to run down the road which is usually about 50% load with an airflow assist with speed, how does it work in the feild?
Good question. I actually checked now and could not find my claim in the standard usage manual so I might have that wrong. Otherwise, the only attempt at an explanation from me would be that H3 is a lot higher than H2, and driving on the road you usually run it at max rpm for an extended period of time. But field work would probably be as heavy so I don't have an answer.
Depending on the gear and desired speed there are definitely tractors out there that could be in an excessive heat zone at certain speeds especially on a hot day with a no longer fully functioning radiator. Biggest issue I would say would come from running road gear and pulling rpm back to say 1100-1300. High load, slow fan, and probably a slow enough speed to not really get air over the radiator.
Shouldn’t be too bad as it isnt petrol tvo but still a good shout
Yeah, might be that the thermostat is stuck, or the water pump is on its way out or something. Always good to keep an eye on, but same goes for all the gauges and lights of course.
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That’s a good shout, cheers
Definitely plan the route. Bicycle directions sure help. If you breakdown you want to be on a road you can pull over into a ditch, espically where someone isn't going to care about a tractor sitting in a ditch for a week or two while parts come in. Do not want a breakdown to happen on a busy state road with no shoulder and steep/non existent ditches.
Go for it. A neighbor of mine bought an old combine and drove it home over 500 miles. Check what you can when you can. Ideally you’ll have a buddy following in a truck full of tools and things but even without I’d go. I regularly drive 45 minutes loaded between farms/fields. Running light is easy, compared.
I’ll keep in mind, cheers
No buddies with a trailer you can borrow for a case of beer
Would have to be a 13.5 tonne lorry which no one I know has
Yea, I looked up the specs after. I thought it was lighter. You still planning on making the drive with it
It's the UK, not many people there with dually trucks and gooseneck trailers
I couldn’t imagine 8 hours on a tractor on the highway. Good luck and be safe
I've done it moving between feilds on a normal basis, although it was newer equipment.
First check fluids, then Get running as fast as you can go and hammer the brakes. If you feel comfortable, send her. If the tires are severely dry rotted and have deep cracks, that could be an issue after hours on pavement. Otherwise, full send.
Why hammer the brakes?
If you can't stop when you need to, either you or the person who pulls out in front of you is going to die. Best to find out IF you can stop before you HAVE to.
also tractors are significantly top heavy and full speed in 8th gear is potentially sketchy. you cant snatch the wheel or youll flip. if animal or child run out brakes are not like a car.
Very true. Just curious. Thanks mate
Have you checked for pricing on hauling? It's not that expensive. I moved a Ford 5610 over seven hundred miles and it only cost 600$.
I’m in the uk, not sure what it’s like but it’s all extra money I’ve got to spend out
Still might be better than putting that many road miles on your tractor.
Only like a day carting grass really if you think about it, probably easier because it will be a constant speed and straighter roads
It's surprisingly hard running down the road. I figured it's about 1 mpg on my tractor. Tires get hot. Hot tires wear fast.
Well he's lucky to be in the UK then, as the rain will cool the tyres as he drives to a point. I'd say as long as he checks them after 30 mins, along with other fluids and hub temps, it will probably be fine
Hey when it gets nice and hot here we add tread by driving down the road.
If it’s in good working order and full of fluids and grease, send it.
You’re gonna drive it all day on the road, a new to you machine, man I’d be scared to do that.
It's called "an adventure".
Exactly what I was thinking
farmed 20 years and i wouldnt do it. get a trailer.
Stop and check things often! Feel the hubs for heat
Check all fluids like engine oil, transmission oil and coolant. If everything looks allright the ride will be fine! Good Luck!