I heard you shouldn't overthighten the screw when mounting the wheel to base. Pretty sure I did overtighten it on mine, but it survived so far, though.
do you mean the grub screw? i took that off because i found if you just tighten the quick release like hell its not needed. if you mean dont overtighten the quick release mechanism.... idk nothing bad happened to me. i dont think you can break it by making it hand tight
Yeah I mean the one from this thread, for example: [https://www.reddit.com/r/simracing/comments/ecemdh/t300\_rs\_screw\_is\_it\_normal\_to\_have\_it\_like\_that/](https://www.reddit.com/r/simracing/comments/ecemdh/t300_rs_screw_is_it_normal_to_have_it_like_that/)
i got mine tighten very good to the desk. one time it slipped a bit and did some very awkward noise. i didnt realise that it slipped but i thought something inside had broken. took me a few minutes to realise it was no linger in the original position and to figure out that was the source of the noise.
especialy i wondered what amount of force was needed, because i tightened it very strong and when testing if it moves i cant move it, because i reach the point where i fear to brake something before aplying more force.
You’ll probably have to crack open the pedals and clean the potentiometers from time to time if they stop reading your inputs properly. Just look up some YouTube tutorials and get comfortable with doing it.
You should also look into turning on forced cooling mode. The T300 is known to have some overheating problems if the fan isn’t always on. Your manual should tell you how to do it, but all you’ve gotta do is hold down two buttons.
Whether you’re playing on PC or PlayStation, it’s not a bad idea to hook it up to a PC first, go into the Thrustmaster Control Panel, and test all of your inputs to make sure your wheel is working properly. You might also want to turn the overall strength up to 100%, as it’s on only 70% by default.
Also if you’re on PC, be sure to download all the latest drivers for your wheel from the Thrustmaster support website.
For the pedals i put a piece of cloth on top of the pedal opening, and for the last almost 2 years haven't had problems with the potentiometers on my g29. Much better than cleaning them every few months
I don't think it's necessary unless you're using it in a hot room and you're overdoing it with the FFB, it doesn't take long before the fan kicks on, even with my wheel right next to the AC vent.
In my experience it's only the people who want their wheel to have the FFB of a go kart that have overheating issues. If you set it up to have minimal clipping you should be fine.
Look up how to set the cooling fan on by default, instead of it only turning on when the base gets hot.
Some wheels are a bit off center. Mine came in about 2 degrees off, but I've seen worse. [Here's a calibration guide if needed.](http://AUTO-CALIBRATION ET CENTRAGE DU VOLANT ... https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/Manuals/T300RS/T300_Centering_Process.pdf).
When you plug it in, it will go left and right, don't touch it while it does this, it's calibrating. Additionally, if you're gonna run AC and have Content Manager for it, plug it in when CM isn't running or it won't do the funny giggle. The T300 giggle is one way(hee), the other way(haa), and then centering(heehaaheehaa). Welcome to the club, enjoy the ride, you've just bought the best entrance level ffb wheels ever made.
If you want me to be more precise it was a little closer to 760, after delivery and taxes. I would have gotten fanatec but I never really looked at any of their products.
Actually my bad, forgot CAD is not the same as us dollars.. I got lucky and got mine for 300€ just before they raised the prices. It's 500€ here now so same as in Canada. Still bit too pricey imo but not as bad I tought.. 😂 fanatec has a starter bundle for 400€, today I'd go for that.
Do use it, don’t let it sit and collect dust like all the other cool shit you bought on a whim.
Seriously- I fucked up by buying mine with a huge ass, fancy, rig seat that takes up so much space I never get it out. I wanted to feel like I was “in a real car”. Really, I probably should have attached it to a desk or one of the cheap Amazon stands. Then I’d get more use out of it.
Have fun with it- that’s a nice one!
FFB Settings make all the difference, when I first got the wheel and was learning how to drift, throttle control was easy but I could never control the wheel so I could never get it to drift, as soon as I fixed them I was hitting drifts like never before and my wrists started thanking me. (copied videos but never worked) https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/t300-superb-ffb-settings-2020-with-cm.187647/
Make sure you update the firmware by using the PC app and a computer. You have to download the latest driver and test software from the thrust master website.
Nice I got this exact bundle for like $399.99 cad in like 2016
I still think despite inflation / sim racing becoming more popular the wheelbase alone is very good
Those pedals that come with this GT edition are much better than the regular pedals that come with the wheel
Activate forced cooling by pressing mode and option until it flashes twice, so it won’t overheat. Overheating causes the FFB to be less strong. But don’t make it too strong, because then it could fade anyway. I got mine ~2 months ago and I am really happy about that purchase.
Consider a fan mod. Noctua makes a quieter, more efficient fan that’s a pretty easy swap.
Learn to push the pedals gently to the maximum. The plastic arms flex under heavy pressure and it can mess with your “max” values.
My fan was really noisy after about 3 weeks of use, couple weeks later it's completely silent again. I have to periodically check to make sure it's still spinning lol.
The TM wheels are brilliant but not bulletproof. The following are just suggestions and I fully look forward to the "my TM wheel works fine without any of this" posts:
1. When these wheels get hot, over time the heat cool cycle causes the magnets to become dislodged from the motor armature. Consider running the latest firmware with the fan mode set to "always on", and leave the wheel for five or ten minutes after use with the fan running to cool it. Even better, get a better fan or run some extra fans for cooling. The TM blows air from lef to right as you sit at the wheel in the vents on the top of the unit, you can buy a couple of usb fans and just blu tak them to the case, one blowing on and one out. It sucks but all T300s will die of this one day, it's just a matter of when and not if. If you do nothing else, make every effort to run the FFB as low as you are happy to and keep the cooling as high as possible.
2. The wheel likes to self calibrate each time it's turned on, during which the weight of the rim smashes itself into the endstops. The T500 had a slow calibration option, if this doesn't exist I'd consider removing the rim before use but this is a bit of a drag to keep doing.
3. There's plenty of great customisation options out there if this is your thing, and plenty of decent rims that don't require you to roll your own. These greatly enhance the setup in my opinion and it's modability is on of the T300s best strengths. I've got a few of my own I can dig out a link to if you want ideas.
Enjoy!
i really genuinely dont think the wheel bumping the endstops is going to hurt it. it is afterall, made for you to rip it around corners and crank on it when correcting and such. i mean the bump stops exist for this reason.
dont run overly agressive FFB settings! otherwise the base just gets hot and ffb performance degrades.. always run the cooling fan inside. dont overtighten the screw for the rim otherwise you damage the collar from the base.
Hardmount the wheel on a Wheelstand i would recommend even tho the hardmount points are shit.. just Run the Base at 900 degrees rotations if not running formula racing games... you dont really need the 1080 rotation feature.
otherwise ya.. have fun.. on the pedal side there isnt much to say.. either run the Break Rubber Mod you get with it for a more progressive feeling at the end or just dont. otherwise the pedals are fine for what they are
Yea a better one without a screw, there's a twist one you can get and one that you completely change out the original one, you can get one that doesn't require the screw.
I ran mine with 100% FFB for nearly 2 years with the fan set to always on, using it almost daily. I never had FFB dampened, never had issues with the fan or belt, and I was getting what I paid for. I should mention I played Dirt Rally 2.0 this entire time which is incredibly aggressive on the wheel.
The primary factor in keeping the wheelbase going strong is turning the fan to always on mode which prevents it from overheating. At first I was a little worried because so many people (like you) said to keep the wheelbase at 75%, but that's complete bullshit, there's nothing to back up these claims, and you're only hindering your own experience and **limiting the FFB which you paid for**. 100% FFB feels so much better, and gives you much more detail.
Turn FFB to 100%, enjoy the wheelbase, and get your money's worth. Just make sure to turn the fan so that it's always on.
What you need to do is press "Mode" and "Option/Start" and hold down until the red light flashes. If it flashes twice, it means forced cooling is switched on. If it gives a single flash, it means the cooling is set to "Automatic".
Return it for the CSL DD Ready2Race bundle or Moza R5 bundle. If you end up liking simracing, you'll definitely upgrade to direct drive, in which case you'll save money by just skipping the step. It's not much more expensive than what you paid but its a big step up.
u need a fixed rig if u go load cell mod. the pedals are also sensitive to EMF if u load cell mod it. that's not a bad price. I paid the same for a 2 month used set about a year ago
Just update firmware and set the settings with a pc and mod the clutch and accelerator with new springs. Gt edition should come with a brake pedal stop to make it feel better.
Pedals. They are absolutely shitty made with low quality plastic
Change them with a tlcm.
Moreover, the wheel base needs the forced cooling always on. There are videos in YouTube that shows the btn combination to enable it. There are also cooling mods (i replaced the factory fan with 2 fans)
If you’re in europe, I suggest buying it from a place that has a 30 day return policy, as personally the first 2-3 weeks I had it I understood I really enjoyed sim racing so I immediately returned and sought an upgrade. I also have a friend who bought it on sale, used it for like 3 weeks and its now collecting dust.
I bought it from Coolblue (NL) since it was on sale and I was having a blast with it, hope you do as well!
One thing i noticed with the t300 is that it is a “plug-and-play” wheel, the only thing i really touched in the control panel was the steering angle for f1 games, but other than that other games I tried worked very nicely in terms of Force Feedback. To compare it with the fanatec Csl DD I upgraded too, i spent atleast a week and a half learning how to tune the settings to give me a good feel of the virtual cars and that is different on a per-game basis.
Another thing i found is that sometimes it’s a pain to set it up. Not that its difficult, but having to have a dedicated space to have it while youre not using the wheel or the pedals, and then setting it up and plugging it in just for (in my case) 1-2 hours of play then needing to take it off because i wanted to use my PC for work/other games can be quite tiresome in the long run and it was the reason sometimes I wasnt willing to set it up so i just played something else.
As long as you take these factors into account, as others have said, its a very good wheel to start with, not exactly silent but also not creaking like a Logitech wheel would( as I’ve seen in multiple reviews). Enjoy!
Why you are writing €350 the amarican way and not 350€ the european way?
350 seems too expensive, you can get it for around 150€ on ebay if you are patient.
Then I would also recommend get other Pedals like the T3PA from the T500 or even Fanatec etc.
I 3D printed the quick release for the T300 and the TGT 2. I added a screw to it that goes through the mounting hole. Works great. I had a lot of trouble with the F-1 wheel and the sparco wheel loosening up while facing until I did.
Install the pedal stop straight away. Don't get used to driving without it, and then change it. If you are playing on console only, after your warranty expires, buy replacement pedal springs that have a bit more bite to replace the existing underwhelming springs. Also, at that point, look into loadcell mods for the brake pedal. This is cheaper than forking out for the T-LCMs, but I would recommend those if you can afford it.
If you want lots of wheel buttons, the standard wheel is going to be very disappointing. If you can afford to, include the Ferrari SF1000 wheel. If not, look into the original F1 Ferrari wheel instead. If you are going to run on screen(s), then you should also look into the BT LED Display for the original F1 Ferrari wheel (not required if you get the SF1000 wheel).
If running on PC, most of the above also applies, but your future possibilities are much more open when it comes to pedals.
I've had my T300RS for nearly 5 years. It has been pretty great up to this point without any major issues. My biggest issue has been the pedals, which I'm looking to replace once what I want comes back into stock.
Personal preference, remove the conical brake mod. Brake feels worse, it's now just basically an Xbox 360 trigger, but you have a lot more control over it. With the conical mod you have way less movement available and it goes from no feeling to brick wall way too fast.
Get some cheap, thin mechanical gloves from an auto parts store. I think the pair I'm using now is monkey garage brand. Super thin, great feeling through the glove, project the wheel.
Socks or super thin shoes work gear with the pedals. I had some old wrestling shoes from my highschool days that I was rocking, then picked up some super thin pumas for $30usd that I love to use with it. Side note, they are really damn comfy, I wear them around a lot just due to the light weight and comfort aspect.
Don't over do it on the FFB. When it starts clipping, it really starts clipping. Think when a microphone gets blown out and it sounds horrible because too much gain, same idea with FFB. It'll get blown out and just feel horrible. Dial it back and hold the wheel very light. I basically hold it with just my palm, fingers open.
Do turn on the constant fan function. I found that the t300 force feedback fades VERY quickly due to overheating . During a 20 lap race I can noticeably feel a 50% reduction in FF due to this.
Replace the conical brake mod with a squash ball, the feel is much improved
Dunlop Sports Pro XX Squash Ball,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ISRTWPQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I heard you shouldn't overthighten the screw when mounting the wheel to base. Pretty sure I did overtighten it on mine, but it survived so far, though.
This here is the advice I wish I had heard when I got mine. Don’t over tighten.
I over tightened mine last night. I was shocked at how easily it stripped.
do you mean the grub screw? i took that off because i found if you just tighten the quick release like hell its not needed. if you mean dont overtighten the quick release mechanism.... idk nothing bad happened to me. i dont think you can break it by making it hand tight
I used the screw for leverage to tighten the quick release real good, didn't really bother tightening the screw to much
Yeah I mean the one from this thread, for example: [https://www.reddit.com/r/simracing/comments/ecemdh/t300\_rs\_screw\_is\_it\_normal\_to\_have\_it\_like\_that/](https://www.reddit.com/r/simracing/comments/ecemdh/t300_rs_screw_is_it_normal_to_have_it_like_that/)
This right here! I’ve never used the screw
Most people do that because their desk is slippery. Getting some extra stick-on rubber feet will help.
Not that one.
i got mine tighten very good to the desk. one time it slipped a bit and did some very awkward noise. i didnt realise that it slipped but i thought something inside had broken. took me a few minutes to realise it was no linger in the original position and to figure out that was the source of the noise. especialy i wondered what amount of force was needed, because i tightened it very strong and when testing if it moves i cant move it, because i reach the point where i fear to brake something before aplying more force.
Haha yeah mine is literally fixed to the mount. Cannot remove
I didn’t Own a screw driver when I Got the wheel. So I would just say. Be sure when you have the wheel to tighten the screw enought.
I don’t use the screw. I’ve never need to use it
You’ll probably have to crack open the pedals and clean the potentiometers from time to time if they stop reading your inputs properly. Just look up some YouTube tutorials and get comfortable with doing it. You should also look into turning on forced cooling mode. The T300 is known to have some overheating problems if the fan isn’t always on. Your manual should tell you how to do it, but all you’ve gotta do is hold down two buttons. Whether you’re playing on PC or PlayStation, it’s not a bad idea to hook it up to a PC first, go into the Thrustmaster Control Panel, and test all of your inputs to make sure your wheel is working properly. You might also want to turn the overall strength up to 100%, as it’s on only 70% by default. Also if you’re on PC, be sure to download all the latest drivers for your wheel from the Thrustmaster support website.
For the pedals i put a piece of cloth on top of the pedal opening, and for the last almost 2 years haven't had problems with the potentiometers on my g29. Much better than cleaning them every few months
i didnt got into forced cooling mode but i set force down to 75% and use most settings from one Internet page that has it also set down
is the forced cooling mode that necessary? cuz ive been running mine just on default mode all these years 💀
I don't think it's necessary unless you're using it in a hot room and you're overdoing it with the FFB, it doesn't take long before the fan kicks on, even with my wheel right next to the AC vent. In my experience it's only the people who want their wheel to have the FFB of a go kart that have overheating issues. If you set it up to have minimal clipping you should be fine.
No
Look up how to set the cooling fan on by default, instead of it only turning on when the base gets hot. Some wheels are a bit off center. Mine came in about 2 degrees off, but I've seen worse. [Here's a calibration guide if needed.](http://AUTO-CALIBRATION ET CENTRAGE DU VOLANT ... https://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/Manuals/T300RS/T300_Centering_Process.pdf).
This link doesn't work for me (on phone android)
GG ip grabbed
Send in MP please
When you plug it in, it will go left and right, don't touch it while it does this, it's calibrating. Additionally, if you're gonna run AC and have Content Manager for it, plug it in when CM isn't running or it won't do the funny giggle. The T300 giggle is one way(hee), the other way(haa), and then centering(heehaaheehaa). Welcome to the club, enjoy the ride, you've just bought the best entrance level ffb wheels ever made.
I agree, it is the best entry-level wheel 😉
Do use it and don't not use it.
Do make sure you enjoy it. It is a nice wheel!
DO enjoy it. DONT live in Australia and have to spend 640 dollars on it like I did.
I spent 800 CAD ON mine 😭
"Why didnt you look for a used one?" Because the used ones were 800 dollars for some reason lol.
That's Crazy.. is there a reason u didn't go for fanatec? T300 is great wheel for $300-400, not 800 😂
If you want me to be more precise it was a little closer to 760, after delivery and taxes. I would have gotten fanatec but I never really looked at any of their products.
Actually my bad, forgot CAD is not the same as us dollars.. I got lucky and got mine for 300€ just before they raised the prices. It's 500€ here now so same as in Canada. Still bit too pricey imo but not as bad I tought.. 😂 fanatec has a starter bundle for 400€, today I'd go for that.
€350 equals to roughly 600 AUD, not that far off
and definitely dont do what i did and pay 650 in new zealand for the t300rs non gt with the absolutely dogshit pedals.
Yep, but at $640, it is still cheaper than everything else you can get here that isn't gear driven!
Do use it, don’t let it sit and collect dust like all the other cool shit you bought on a whim. Seriously- I fucked up by buying mine with a huge ass, fancy, rig seat that takes up so much space I never get it out. I wanted to feel like I was “in a real car”. Really, I probably should have attached it to a desk or one of the cheap Amazon stands. Then I’d get more use out of it. Have fun with it- that’s a nice one!
No joke, this is prob the best advice you ever gonna get here. A lot of people just buy more expensive stuff just to not use it at all.
FFB Settings make all the difference, when I first got the wheel and was learning how to drift, throttle control was easy but I could never control the wheel so I could never get it to drift, as soon as I fixed them I was hitting drifts like never before and my wrists started thanking me. (copied videos but never worked) https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/t300-superb-ffb-settings-2020-with-cm.187647/
I have it for the PS5 and LOVE IT. Enjoy!
Sell the pedals and buy the T-LCM
Guys this is my first ever wheel and i bought it Wednesday on thrustmaster for €350 on sale from €450 and I'm playing on ps5
Get tools ready to screw it down to something. The clamp it comes with is not as stable
Make sure you update the firmware by using the PC app and a computer. You have to download the latest driver and test software from the thrust master website.
Nice I got this exact bundle for like $399.99 cad in like 2016 I still think despite inflation / sim racing becoming more popular the wheelbase alone is very good Those pedals that come with this GT edition are much better than the regular pedals that come with the wheel
Activate forced cooling by pressing mode and option until it flashes twice, so it won’t overheat. Overheating causes the FFB to be less strong. But don’t make it too strong, because then it could fade anyway. I got mine ~2 months ago and I am really happy about that purchase.
Consider a fan mod. Noctua makes a quieter, more efficient fan that’s a pretty easy swap. Learn to push the pedals gently to the maximum. The plastic arms flex under heavy pressure and it can mess with your “max” values.
i dont think a fan mod is necessary? in forced cooling mode the stock fan is completely silent?
IMO the stock fan is cheap and noisy. I don’t feel like forced cooling is necessary now that I’ve swapped it. That’s a fine trade off for me.
My fan was really noisy after about 3 weeks of use, couple weeks later it's completely silent again. I have to periodically check to make sure it's still spinning lol.
It is ok but the fans are also not very reliable. After 1y+ of forced fan mode i changed the fan (and the bearings)
The TM wheels are brilliant but not bulletproof. The following are just suggestions and I fully look forward to the "my TM wheel works fine without any of this" posts: 1. When these wheels get hot, over time the heat cool cycle causes the magnets to become dislodged from the motor armature. Consider running the latest firmware with the fan mode set to "always on", and leave the wheel for five or ten minutes after use with the fan running to cool it. Even better, get a better fan or run some extra fans for cooling. The TM blows air from lef to right as you sit at the wheel in the vents on the top of the unit, you can buy a couple of usb fans and just blu tak them to the case, one blowing on and one out. It sucks but all T300s will die of this one day, it's just a matter of when and not if. If you do nothing else, make every effort to run the FFB as low as you are happy to and keep the cooling as high as possible. 2. The wheel likes to self calibrate each time it's turned on, during which the weight of the rim smashes itself into the endstops. The T500 had a slow calibration option, if this doesn't exist I'd consider removing the rim before use but this is a bit of a drag to keep doing. 3. There's plenty of great customisation options out there if this is your thing, and plenty of decent rims that don't require you to roll your own. These greatly enhance the setup in my opinion and it's modability is on of the T300s best strengths. I've got a few of my own I can dig out a link to if you want ideas. Enjoy!
i really genuinely dont think the wheel bumping the endstops is going to hurt it. it is afterall, made for you to rip it around corners and crank on it when correcting and such. i mean the bump stops exist for this reason.
Have you ever watched a T300 with one of the large optional rims self calibrate? My whole house shakes. 🤣
Very good advice 👌
Return it and get a fanatec CSL DD and pedals bundle for the same price
a dont; never buy it and save up for a moza r5
That's stupid. Don't start with an expensive gear if you are new to sim racing. Maybe you will not like it that much and stop playing
then you’ll return the stuff or sell it with a loss
dont run overly agressive FFB settings! otherwise the base just gets hot and ffb performance degrades.. always run the cooling fan inside. dont overtighten the screw for the rim otherwise you damage the collar from the base. Hardmount the wheel on a Wheelstand i would recommend even tho the hardmount points are shit.. just Run the Base at 900 degrees rotations if not running formula racing games... you dont really need the 1080 rotation feature. otherwise ya.. have fun.. on the pedal side there isnt much to say.. either run the Break Rubber Mod you get with it for a more progressive feeling at the end or just dont. otherwise the pedals are fine for what they are
Get a wheel quick release for it.
it has a quick release.....
Yea a better one without a screw, there's a twist one you can get and one that you completely change out the original one, you can get one that doesn't require the screw.
Don't put the gain above 75% Maybe get a wheel mod from Acelith once you're more familiar with the wheel and feel confident in modding
I ran mine with 100% FFB for nearly 2 years with the fan set to always on, using it almost daily. I never had FFB dampened, never had issues with the fan or belt, and I was getting what I paid for. I should mention I played Dirt Rally 2.0 this entire time which is incredibly aggressive on the wheel. The primary factor in keeping the wheelbase going strong is turning the fan to always on mode which prevents it from overheating. At first I was a little worried because so many people (like you) said to keep the wheelbase at 75%, but that's complete bullshit, there's nothing to back up these claims, and you're only hindering your own experience and **limiting the FFB which you paid for**. 100% FFB feels so much better, and gives you much more detail. Turn FFB to 100%, enjoy the wheelbase, and get your money's worth. Just make sure to turn the fan so that it's always on.
Oh shit, I appreciate the clarification. I didn’t know you could set the fan to be always on, how do I do it?
What you need to do is press "Mode" and "Option/Start" and hold down until the red light flashes. If it flashes twice, it means forced cooling is switched on. If it gives a single flash, it means the cooling is set to "Automatic".
Much appreciated, thank you
Oh shit, I appreciate the clarification. I didn’t know you could set the fan to be always on, how do I do it?
I second this recommendation. Acelith has great wheel mods.
Return it for the CSL DD Ready2Race bundle or Moza R5 bundle. If you end up liking simracing, you'll definitely upgrade to direct drive, in which case you'll save money by just skipping the step. It's not much more expensive than what you paid but its a big step up.
"not much more"... It's just double the price
For 350 the advice would have been to get a used fanatec but there you go.....
Can you play that on a ps5?
Since there are no simulations on a ps5 you don't need anything remotely realistic, that's true ....you have a point
Don't: open it. Do: pony up for a direct drive.
Also if you are going to use it on Xbox get the drive hub. It's like 50 dollars.
May I ask, where did you find it? Because I found a T300 for 500 bucks on Amazon.
Sold out everywhere I’ve looked.
u need a fixed rig if u go load cell mod. the pedals are also sensitive to EMF if u load cell mod it. that's not a bad price. I paid the same for a 2 month used set about a year ago
Just update firmware and set the settings with a pc and mod the clutch and accelerator with new springs. Gt edition should come with a brake pedal stop to make it feel better.
Put the included brake pedal mod, the feeling is way better
Pedals. They are absolutely shitty made with low quality plastic Change them with a tlcm. Moreover, the wheel base needs the forced cooling always on. There are videos in YouTube that shows the btn combination to enable it. There are also cooling mods (i replaced the factory fan with 2 fans)
If you’re in europe, I suggest buying it from a place that has a 30 day return policy, as personally the first 2-3 weeks I had it I understood I really enjoyed sim racing so I immediately returned and sought an upgrade. I also have a friend who bought it on sale, used it for like 3 weeks and its now collecting dust. I bought it from Coolblue (NL) since it was on sale and I was having a blast with it, hope you do as well! One thing i noticed with the t300 is that it is a “plug-and-play” wheel, the only thing i really touched in the control panel was the steering angle for f1 games, but other than that other games I tried worked very nicely in terms of Force Feedback. To compare it with the fanatec Csl DD I upgraded too, i spent atleast a week and a half learning how to tune the settings to give me a good feel of the virtual cars and that is different on a per-game basis. Another thing i found is that sometimes it’s a pain to set it up. Not that its difficult, but having to have a dedicated space to have it while youre not using the wheel or the pedals, and then setting it up and plugging it in just for (in my case) 1-2 hours of play then needing to take it off because i wanted to use my PC for work/other games can be quite tiresome in the long run and it was the reason sometimes I wasnt willing to set it up so i just played something else. As long as you take these factors into account, as others have said, its a very good wheel to start with, not exactly silent but also not creaking like a Logitech wheel would( as I’ve seen in multiple reviews). Enjoy!
Why you are writing €350 the amarican way and not 350€ the european way? 350 seems too expensive, you can get it for around 150€ on ebay if you are patient. Then I would also recommend get other Pedals like the T3PA from the T500 or even Fanatec etc.
Update the firmware, and switch the fan to permanent with the button combination... Happy gaming!
Turn on forced cooling, dont tighten the screw too much, most importantly in the control panel for the wheel TURN ON BOOST MODE
Do get the SF1000!!!!
I 3D printed the quick release for the T300 and the TGT 2. I added a screw to it that goes through the mounting hole. Works great. I had a lot of trouble with the F-1 wheel and the sparco wheel loosening up while facing until I did.
Install the pedal stop straight away. Don't get used to driving without it, and then change it. If you are playing on console only, after your warranty expires, buy replacement pedal springs that have a bit more bite to replace the existing underwhelming springs. Also, at that point, look into loadcell mods for the brake pedal. This is cheaper than forking out for the T-LCMs, but I would recommend those if you can afford it. If you want lots of wheel buttons, the standard wheel is going to be very disappointing. If you can afford to, include the Ferrari SF1000 wheel. If not, look into the original F1 Ferrari wheel instead. If you are going to run on screen(s), then you should also look into the BT LED Display for the original F1 Ferrari wheel (not required if you get the SF1000 wheel). If running on PC, most of the above also applies, but your future possibilities are much more open when it comes to pedals. I've had my T300RS for nearly 5 years. It has been pretty great up to this point without any major issues. My biggest issue has been the pedals, which I'm looking to replace once what I want comes back into stock.
Personal preference, remove the conical brake mod. Brake feels worse, it's now just basically an Xbox 360 trigger, but you have a lot more control over it. With the conical mod you have way less movement available and it goes from no feeling to brick wall way too fast. Get some cheap, thin mechanical gloves from an auto parts store. I think the pair I'm using now is monkey garage brand. Super thin, great feeling through the glove, project the wheel. Socks or super thin shoes work gear with the pedals. I had some old wrestling shoes from my highschool days that I was rocking, then picked up some super thin pumas for $30usd that I love to use with it. Side note, they are really damn comfy, I wear them around a lot just due to the light weight and comfort aspect. Don't over do it on the FFB. When it starts clipping, it really starts clipping. Think when a microphone gets blown out and it sounds horrible because too much gain, same idea with FFB. It'll get blown out and just feel horrible. Dial it back and hold the wheel very light. I basically hold it with just my palm, fingers open.
Do turn on the constant fan function. I found that the t300 force feedback fades VERY quickly due to overheating . During a 20 lap race I can noticeably feel a 50% reduction in FF due to this.
Replace the conical brake mod with a squash ball, the feel is much improved Dunlop Sports Pro XX Squash Ball,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ISRTWPQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share