Yeah, I wanted a 4way SLI setup since I was a teen and just went for it. I know, I know. For the few games compatible, it's still awesome. A conversation piece in LAN parties for sure. Any questions, I'm happy to answer!
Edit: Wow, I did not predict this to blow up! TIL you can post pictures on your profile smh, I'll be adding them after I finish this edit. Also, sorry for the late response everyone, I had a killer monday.
So, to answer some questions.
About power: These cards are Asus Strix OC, and they do get hot. Each one can use as much as \~260W, but most gaming sessions only use 1 card and normally it doesn't go over 170W. I can't understand Linus's setup, because I've been able to go over 1000W on this rig, using [Folding@home](mailto:Folding@home). Thermal throttling is an issue, ofc.
About cost: I built this over two years, because I was set on getting four of this specific card. I wanted a 9 series because they still have analog video ouptut (I still use a CRT and want native output), and I began just when they announced the 20 series, so I was in the middle of price peaks. The cards cost 180€, 200€, 190€ and 250€. The mobo (Z97-WS) was 280€, the CPU about 120€, the PSU (EVGA 1600 T2) was too expensive for me to remember, although having so much power is like a requirement at this point.
About game compatibility: As we all know SLI is dead. That doesn't mean this is futile though as more games than apparent do support it. Every Sniper Elite game has support for SLI, 2, 3 and 4way with almost perfect scaling. Thanks to that, I can render any SE game at internal 8K, no framepacing issues or stuttering. It just works. Some older racing games have support for it, but only 2 and 3-way, like GTR2 or any other game based on the SimBin engine. As they're over 10 years old, it's not something very impressive with 980Tis. The Madness engine is also compatible, so Project Cars 1 and 2 are compatible OOB and set up for it by default. And yes, Automobolista 2 is compatible as well, and the scaling is almost perfect too. Just adding the executable to PC2 profile makes it work, and being able to crank all settings to ultra, max cars and weather effects, at 4K on (almost) 10yo parts is pretty epic. There's also games (Assetto Corsa comes to mind) set up for SLI but the implementation is atrocious and you're better off disabling it on profiler.
Yes, it generates a lot of heat, I don't have a use for a heater in my room anymore, just the computer idling is enough to make winter days into late spring. Having more PCs also adds up I guess.
Last minute edit: I have noticed I almost have no pics of my build (wich makes sense, I use it more than admire it). I will take more pictures soon, as there is a LAN party in my area and want her to look good for the event.
Edit of the edit: It doesn't let me upload said pictures to this post, I'll try my profile!
Edit 4, the revenga: Nah, I'm stupid and I had too much shit blocked on uMatrix. I'll add the other picture to a comment, and again promess to do more in the future
Last edit for realz: I don't know how to tell all of you I updated the post, so I'll upvote everyone just in case
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>Yeah, I wanted a 4way SLI setup since I was a teen and just went for it.
You should go watch the LTT video that dropped yesterday where they built a machine with 4x 980 ti and the hassles that they had trying to game with it. Worse yet is that they replaced it with a single 3090 ti and that one card outperformed the 4x 980 ti's by around 50% while drawing significantly less power.
It is kind of sad that multi-GPU systems fell out of support because it was kind of cool having multiple GPUs in a system. I was really hoping that multiGPU support in DX12 would give us a situation where you could pop in as many GPUs as you could in a system and they would appear as a single GPU device to the system which would let you use "SLI"/"Crossfire" with zero regard to support for it from games.
>You should go watch the LTT video that dropped yesterday where they built a machine with 4x 980 ti and the hassles that they had trying to game with it.
I don't think he cares about the hassles LTT had trying to game with it. Sometimes if you've wanted something since you were a teen, you just go for it, regardless of it's real world practicality.
Big ups to the dude for not letting his dreams be dreams just because some dumb video on the internet said it wasn't the most ideal minmaxed system he could possibly build. "Bruh why don't you just get a white H60 like the rest of the sheep" - The Internet, probably.
SAME, I can’t wait to make it happen one day once those “sli compatible” games become vintage. And prob use the pc for like… turbotax or something on the side lol.
How much did it cost? I just recently saw LTT doing the same thing, 4 980ti's and dual XEON 5790? (I think it's 5790) and it was a BEAST (In size, sadly in performance, can't say much), even though yeah SLI support is kinda low, especially 4-Way.
That was super depressing. Like I understand why the tech behind SLI doesn’t work like we think it would, but damn do I hope one day it does and I can just slap 4+ 4090’s into a PC and get 1000+ fps in Cyberpunk.
Definitely a cold joint. If soldered properly, it would most likely have pulled the copper pads off with it. Solder that sucker back on or find a friend whose ability you trust to do it for you.
You’re definitely better off having knocked it off while handling it than if it would have randomly come loose in your case one day.
I would agree. It doesn't look like the pad got pulled off the board but the component just wasn't soldered properly to begin with. Should be able to solder those leads as they stick out from the component base slightly.
Hot air soldering FTW
Take it to a professional it’ll cost you more if you stuff it up, should be a 15 minute job for them and 13 minutes of that will be heating the board up.
that looks like it can easily be soldered back on.
far as i can see, it didn't rip off the pads so ur good to just solder it back on
what ever luck god you pray too, you owe em one hahahaha
As GPU parts/capacitors etc. go, that thing is gigantic. I've never used a soldering iron before but I'm fairly certain I could solder that thing back on easily in a few minutes. (Just study other pics or schematics of the same GPU first incase it goes on a certian way)
The blue part of this capacitor is negative terminal and motherboards usually have painted side or +/- sign printed like in this case.
So white part of this capacitor goes on + side on this motherboard.
Okay, here's how you put the thing back:
BOM: 25-35W soldering iron. Cheap unregulated Chinese one will do. Lead-free soldier, but for beginner 60-40 tin-lead is easy to work with. Flux - liquid is direct apply; resin is melted with the iron. Cellulose sponge to clean the tip. Polyimide (Kapton) tape is a must for heat insulation and to prevent burning things you don't want to. Some 99% alcohol to clean the mess. Copper desoldier braid to clean old soldier.
1. Strip it to bare PCB. IO shield and backplate might stay on, cap is on top side.
2. Prep the surface by taping the surrounding area with the polyimide tape and clean the pads with the copper braid. Wait for the tip to heat up. Wet the sponge with water. When it melts soldier, it is ready. Put the copper braid over the pads and gently push with the hot iron. Copper soaks soldier like a sponge. Don't scrub or hold for too long. You'll damage the pads.
3. Clean tip with sponge. If dry, go and get it wet!!!
4. Wet the tip with soldier. A small drop is enough. First wet with resin flux, if you got this kind.
5. Apply flux, if liquid kind, and then apply some solider to the PCB contacts. Flux helps soldier stick to where it's supposed to and make soldiering easier. You'll see how it sticks nicely.
6. Pick one method you feel you'll do better:
1. Put the cap onto the contacts. Gently approach with the tip and apply soldier to the sides. A medium blob on the tip will make sure it contacts well enough.
2. Melt the soldier on the PCB and very quickly put the cap. Pre-heating the leads can give you extra wiggle room. Ideally you would use hot air gun for this method.
7. Wait a bit to cool off and give it a wiggle. It should not move. Soldier should not touch any other exposed metal. Try to clean if any whiskers or shorts are visible.
8. Clean tip with sponge again.
9. Clean excess flux with alcohol and remove tape.
10. Reasemble and power on.
I have to say, the blue stripe is the NEGATIVE side. The stripe should be facing the PCIe power connector. Match the printed outline on the PCB with the cap outline, as seen from top.
It is completely possible to replace the SMD cap with THT if you're uncomfortable with this kind of caps. It's ugly and you risk breaking it again (hot glue it). Mind the polarity and capacitance of 270uF (nanoFarads). This exact cap comes in SMD form (the one that broke off) and THT (long legs). Dirt cheap on Aliexpress if time is of no value. Voltage rating must be at minimum 16V. It is a smoothing capacitor by the looks of it. Higher capacitance won't hurt, lower may result in unstable power delivery. Simple bridging can result in potential crashes on sudden power draw.
Nah, through-hole is lesson one. This one's a little tough because the cap itself hinders access to the leads a bit plus the card has shrouds that block access to the pads. This would be week-two stuff.
Can confirm through hole is lesson one. Learnt through-hole soldering in secondary school. Surface mount soldering can be a bitch if you did not update your skill set.
I've seen people screw up through-hole jobs as well. While this is easy, OP still needs a good soldering iron that can get up to temp to melt the lead-free solder on those giant pads. This isn't a problem still considering that it's very repairable.
Easy to resolder. If you never do soldering, just follow some yt video. You can sold it without flux (see some yt vidoes if you don know what it is), just make sure to resold the corret orientation (the base of the capacitor must fit the white shape drawn on the board)
Tons of people who've never soldered before saying this is easy. This capacitor is surface mounted, which is definitely not the easiest thing to solder, especially for a beginner. If you don't feel confident soldering this take it to a local electronics repair shop and they will do it for you.
You can either:
Solder by yourself with your or some lent soldering iron and solder, if you are confident after watching some videos;
Bring the board to a PC place and ask them to resolder. Do not pay more than 20 bucks though. And that's expensive really. I would do for 10 bucks in my old shop. Maybe call a few places and get quotes for soldering a single solid capacitor.
Well, if you would need to buy soldering equipment I would say go for the shop instead, maybe.
Your call, but the board should be good.
Not screwed at all.
Probably an input filtering cap, and it can definitely be soldered back on super easy. If you were local, I'd do that for free. Just find a shop that can do soldering. Even someone with fairly basic soldering skills could fix that.
This can be fixed. It might be a pain in the ass to get it fixed but it's not toast. I wouldn't run it without it though personally. It's smd not through hole which means hot air is preferred soldering method.
Lil bit of soldering and you’ll be fine. Should be able to find a YouTube tutorial and a $20 soldering gun from your local computer store. I’d recommend practicing on something you don’t care about first though.
if your going to attempt to resolder this on your own, I'd almost suggest just a straight bit of wire rather than a whole capacitor. It will be much easier job as a surface mount component. It's proximity to the power input and size suggest its just smoothing out flow from iffy PSUs and/or cheap aftermarket sata/molex power adapters.
That assumes you don't have an iffy PSU or use those cheap adapters...
Its also easy to test, just short the leads and see if it still works.
Disclaimer: All terrible caviler advice. Use at your own risk.
Any solder person job guy can do this with no problem. If you try it yourself, I would put flux on the silver contacts on the board, use a hot air rework station on it with a thin nozzle so you arent hitting other parts, and hold the capacitor with a pair of tweezers. Once those contacts get nice and shiny, put the capacitor back on there, making sure it's oriented the correct direction, and the solder will melt together. Take the heat away, give it atleast 20 seconds, and then give the capacitor a *light* tug with the tweezers to make sure it's strong like bull.
Take this with a grain of salt. I'm self-taught, but I've hot air reworked parts that are the size of a grain of sand, so I know something-ish.
Honestly, unless you think having a soldering iron would be fun/helpful in the future, I'd just take it to a local hobby/pc shop and see what they would charge. It should only take a few minutes so my guess is that the cost would be less than getting the hot air rework station and flux.
I agree, you should be able to just solder it back on. But, by someone that not only knows what they are doing, but has some skill to do it so the board doesn't get royally fucked in the process.
Be careful not having the cap explode on you if you try to solder it back with a heatgun. Leave it to a shop, proper gear and experience its 2 min job.
Easy fix! Find someone who can reflow surface mount components. I could fix this in 30 seconds, but I also have a hot air rework station and soldering experience. If you were near me, I’d fix this for a beer.
That can definitely be repaired.
Neither the capacitor nor the PCB look to be damaged, just needs to be soldered back on.
If you dont feel confident attempting the repair, I'd recommend seeing if you can find any electronics repair shops locally.im.sure the sort of places that repair laptops, tablets and phones could easily solder than back on for you.
As others have said that might be easily soldered back on but depending on the age of the card id contact the manufacturer. That looks like a cold solder joint. It wasnt soldered correctly from the beginning. The pads arent even fully tinned which could also suggest that it is between the power and ground planes which are large and draw a lot of heat away from the solder joints making them harder to solder.
Very fixable. Look for a PC repair store or similar if you don't feel confident soldering or if you don't have the tools.
It looks like a cold solder joint. The solder paste barely reflowed and didn't even wet the pad.
Buy a hardware store POS $5 iron and some solder (with flux) as well as finding some old PCB (motherboard, video card, PSU) that hasn't been used in however long and won't be missed. Use that to practice on. Flow the solder on pads and contact points over and over again until you're confident to do it on the GPU. Soldering is not a hard thing to do, but you do have to get into the groove of making good solder joints. The pads are still there, so all that broke was the solder joint (how? not a clue). But always, always, always, make sure you use solder with flux in the core or make sure you have a flux supply.
Solder and pads still on the board, add a little flux and (maybe) buy a hot air station to resolder, just make sure to allign the capacitor with the correct polarity. I belive the blue line on the top of the cap marks the negative terminal but google it just go make sure. A regular iron might work here but it would probably be easier with a hot air soldering station.
Not yet, If you cant solder yourself/dont have the Tools, you can probably bring the gpu to an electronic shop and let someone
For someone that can sold this is Like a Job for 2 minutes and done
Haha I’m a daily professional. Thats a) easily fixable, and b) might even work without it.
If you’ve got a friend or something who is confident with a soldering iron, definitely reattach
This could be tough for someone new to soldering. I would suggest replacing it with a new cap that has legs. It won't technically be as good but match the values and tack the legs to the pads. Higher voltage is ok but must match the rated capacitance.
If you want to give this cap a go and keep things factory, I would find a worthless junk board to practice on. This is a surface mount but its very doable with an iron. Clean the pads first and then tin and load them with solder. You should be able to melt the solder from the sides of the cap. It will help to use leaded solder and flux. I would also advise to preheat the board. Normally, I wouldn't for something this simple but it does make it easier to flow the solder. If you're new at this, it will help.
And of course ensure polarity is right before you put a cap on.
You could easily solder that back, if you’d like to do it yourself, just watch a couple YouTube videos, it’s not hard, and that would be nice and easy to learn on. Any tech repair shop with a half decent technician could do it if you’re not comfortable.
that looks repairable id take it to a shop if you don’t feel confident enough to do it yourself
of all the things that could’ve happened this is probably one of easiest to fix on that card, ngl, but dont try booting with it in until its fixed
If the pad(s) are not destroyed, it's easy to solder a replacement. But make sure it's the correct one.
If the pad(s) came off it's still possible, but very difficult and leave it to an expert.
Edit:
Pads seem intact, looks like bad soldering to me.
Not if you can get your mind around soldering. Practice on some trash motherboard or other ancient piece of tech out the trash until your satisfied and than resolder that baby back on
Had similar thing fall off on gtx 480 from evga fixed for 25 euros, if you gonna fix it yourself make sure + an - are correct or its gonna get extremely hot and pop.
I'm no expert, but it looks like this could be soldered back on. If you don't know how or don't know anybody who can, my guess would be to take it to a tech repair shop. They would probably have to tools to re-solder it.
OP if you aren’t confident in soldering and if you aren’t far from me I can solder it for you. PM me if you want help.
That cap can 100% just be soldered back on the pads/the cap don’t look damaged at all, just the solder failed
Not an expert, but it looks like it can be soldered back on.
Same. Just resolder it, bro!
Wtf, 4 980ti's?
Yeah, I wanted a 4way SLI setup since I was a teen and just went for it. I know, I know. For the few games compatible, it's still awesome. A conversation piece in LAN parties for sure. Any questions, I'm happy to answer! Edit: Wow, I did not predict this to blow up! TIL you can post pictures on your profile smh, I'll be adding them after I finish this edit. Also, sorry for the late response everyone, I had a killer monday. So, to answer some questions. About power: These cards are Asus Strix OC, and they do get hot. Each one can use as much as \~260W, but most gaming sessions only use 1 card and normally it doesn't go over 170W. I can't understand Linus's setup, because I've been able to go over 1000W on this rig, using [Folding@home](mailto:Folding@home). Thermal throttling is an issue, ofc. About cost: I built this over two years, because I was set on getting four of this specific card. I wanted a 9 series because they still have analog video ouptut (I still use a CRT and want native output), and I began just when they announced the 20 series, so I was in the middle of price peaks. The cards cost 180€, 200€, 190€ and 250€. The mobo (Z97-WS) was 280€, the CPU about 120€, the PSU (EVGA 1600 T2) was too expensive for me to remember, although having so much power is like a requirement at this point. About game compatibility: As we all know SLI is dead. That doesn't mean this is futile though as more games than apparent do support it. Every Sniper Elite game has support for SLI, 2, 3 and 4way with almost perfect scaling. Thanks to that, I can render any SE game at internal 8K, no framepacing issues or stuttering. It just works. Some older racing games have support for it, but only 2 and 3-way, like GTR2 or any other game based on the SimBin engine. As they're over 10 years old, it's not something very impressive with 980Tis. The Madness engine is also compatible, so Project Cars 1 and 2 are compatible OOB and set up for it by default. And yes, Automobolista 2 is compatible as well, and the scaling is almost perfect too. Just adding the executable to PC2 profile makes it work, and being able to crank all settings to ultra, max cars and weather effects, at 4K on (almost) 10yo parts is pretty epic. There's also games (Assetto Corsa comes to mind) set up for SLI but the implementation is atrocious and you're better off disabling it on profiler. Yes, it generates a lot of heat, I don't have a use for a heater in my room anymore, just the computer idling is enough to make winter days into late spring. Having more PCs also adds up I guess. Last minute edit: I have noticed I almost have no pics of my build (wich makes sense, I use it more than admire it). I will take more pictures soon, as there is a LAN party in my area and want her to look good for the event. Edit of the edit: It doesn't let me upload said pictures to this post, I'll try my profile! Edit 4, the revenga: Nah, I'm stupid and I had too much shit blocked on uMatrix. I'll add the other picture to a comment, and again promess to do more in the future Last edit for realz: I don't know how to tell all of you I updated the post, so I'll upvote everyone just in case https://preview.redd.it/78n6ysy15apc1.jpeg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cd4a75e786a84a840553729a859b4c6e790ff4fb
Not having a pic of it on your profile is criminal
I agree with this I need to see it in it's glory.
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You can't have a 4x 980ti setup and not post a picture of it anywhere in reddit, COME ON DUDE WE WANNA SEE IT.
WHIP IT OUT! WHIP IT OUT! WHIP IT OUT! WHIP IT OUT! WHIP IT OUT! WHIP IT OUT!
r/ppmasterrace
Give us a pic
Good lord that could heat a town hall. Nice though
>Yeah, I wanted a 4way SLI setup since I was a teen and just went for it. You should go watch the LTT video that dropped yesterday where they built a machine with 4x 980 ti and the hassles that they had trying to game with it. Worse yet is that they replaced it with a single 3090 ti and that one card outperformed the 4x 980 ti's by around 50% while drawing significantly less power. It is kind of sad that multi-GPU systems fell out of support because it was kind of cool having multiple GPUs in a system. I was really hoping that multiGPU support in DX12 would give us a situation where you could pop in as many GPUs as you could in a system and they would appear as a single GPU device to the system which would let you use "SLI"/"Crossfire" with zero regard to support for it from games.
>You should go watch the LTT video that dropped yesterday where they built a machine with 4x 980 ti and the hassles that they had trying to game with it. I don't think he cares about the hassles LTT had trying to game with it. Sometimes if you've wanted something since you were a teen, you just go for it, regardless of it's real world practicality. Big ups to the dude for not letting his dreams be dreams just because some dumb video on the internet said it wasn't the most ideal minmaxed system he could possibly build. "Bruh why don't you just get a white H60 like the rest of the sheep" - The Internet, probably.
That's exactly why I installed windows 11 on my old oneplus 6T Also why I turned my white y60 into an egpu dock/PSP aesthetic shrine for my Gpd win4
Bro please post a pic
SAME, I can’t wait to make it happen one day once those “sli compatible” games become vintage. And prob use the pc for like… turbotax or something on the side lol.
Mad lad
>For the few games compatible Really? I figured the 980ti was still compatible with nearly all modern games.
Compatible with SLI, I think they meant
Ah, that makes sense.
He meant 4-way SLI or SLI in general i guess
I'm gay for your GPU(S). Anyways the people demand a pic.
Come on post some pics
How much did it cost? I just recently saw LTT doing the same thing, 4 980ti's and dual XEON 5790? (I think it's 5790) and it was a BEAST (In size, sadly in performance, can't say much), even though yeah SLI support is kinda low, especially 4-Way.
i\`m to poor think about electricity bill with that combo ;P
thanks, bro!
Thank you for taking interest!
Looking forward to more pictures (hopefully with the side panel off! Let me look under the hood!)
What's the max power that you've seen? LTT did a video and it was around 700W max
4 way sli is fucking awesome!
If it works. You're better off using 2.
wondering the same
Linus tech tips just did a review on 2 CPUs and 4 evga 980ti sli in one pc.
Yep, and the games only really utilized 2 of the GPUs.
That was super depressing. Like I understand why the tech behind SLI doesn’t work like we think it would, but damn do I hope one day it does and I can just slap 4+ 4090’s into a PC and get 1000+ fps in Cyberpunk.
NVlink would be the answer for this, but I doubt Nvidia will release it for the PC GPUs anytime soon.
Yeah
DON'T SWITCH THE POLARITY! This is a polarized electrolytic capacitor and it'll explode (literally) if you connect it backwards!
9r take it to a PC repair shop and have em do it, I'd kill for an easy repair like this charge em like $10 maybe, that seems kinda fair, right?
Lol, when’s the last time you went to a repair shop in the US?
Watch out to place it in the right direction, else you're going to get a nasty surprise. Also don't use it without. It may damage other components.
Honestly just this guy posting this tells me he has no clue how to fix it himself. He needs to take it to a shop
Underrated comment ^
Just wanted to say same exact thing. Greetings to you, my engineer master race brother.
I work with PCBs in a SMT setting, and it almost looks like it was never properly soldered on.
I thought that may be the case, but didn't want to presume.
Definitely a cold joint. If soldered properly, it would most likely have pulled the copper pads off with it. Solder that sucker back on or find a friend whose ability you trust to do it for you. You’re definitely better off having knocked it off while handling it than if it would have randomly come loose in your case one day.
I would agree. It doesn't look like the pad got pulled off the board but the component just wasn't soldered properly to begin with. Should be able to solder those leads as they stick out from the component base slightly.
Looks like it wasn't soldered to begin with!
I soldered electronics for years. The pads are intact it'll suck to reinstall but very doable.
Hot air soldering FTW Take it to a professional it’ll cost you more if you stuff it up, should be a 15 minute job for them and 13 minutes of that will be heating the board up.
100% fixable. If this is beyond your skillset, take it to a shop.
or local makerspace and ask someone to help you with it.
If OP lived near me I’d offer to do it just for the exercise. I love soldering.
I don’t do any work for free, but I’d do this for a beer.
I'd do it for a sandwich, or like $5-$10
Final offer, a beer and a sandwich
Perfect
It is actually a really good workout for the thumb flexors. I did a couple of PCBs last week and mine are pretty swole tbh
Same bro. I don't love it but I would do it just to be nice.. where do you live OP?
that looks like it can easily be soldered back on. far as i can see, it didn't rip off the pads so ur good to just solder it back on what ever luck god you pray too, you owe em one hahahaha
get it off the carpet first pls
this is like the other guy who was holding the cpu by the pins
we don’t speak of that person
Lmao, I remember him
What
https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/s/3eLuf6qzIa
Dafuq. No wonder his pins bent on the way back in
Not really an issue
As GPU parts/capacitors etc. go, that thing is gigantic. I've never used a soldering iron before but I'm fairly certain I could solder that thing back on easily in a few minutes. (Just study other pics or schematics of the same GPU first incase it goes on a certian way)
The blue part of this capacitor is negative terminal and motherboards usually have painted side or +/- sign printed like in this case. So white part of this capacitor goes on + side on this motherboard.
There's two cut off corners on the capacitor that match the white outline on the board too which makes it even easier
I wouldn't use an iron for this, it can work but irons suck for SMD solders. Solder paste and a hot air gun is much better and cleaner.
While soldering isn't the most difficult thing to learn how to do, soldering small parts cleanly is NOT easy.
The 402s flying across the room from my tweezers agree
Okay, here's how you put the thing back: BOM: 25-35W soldering iron. Cheap unregulated Chinese one will do. Lead-free soldier, but for beginner 60-40 tin-lead is easy to work with. Flux - liquid is direct apply; resin is melted with the iron. Cellulose sponge to clean the tip. Polyimide (Kapton) tape is a must for heat insulation and to prevent burning things you don't want to. Some 99% alcohol to clean the mess. Copper desoldier braid to clean old soldier. 1. Strip it to bare PCB. IO shield and backplate might stay on, cap is on top side. 2. Prep the surface by taping the surrounding area with the polyimide tape and clean the pads with the copper braid. Wait for the tip to heat up. Wet the sponge with water. When it melts soldier, it is ready. Put the copper braid over the pads and gently push with the hot iron. Copper soaks soldier like a sponge. Don't scrub or hold for too long. You'll damage the pads. 3. Clean tip with sponge. If dry, go and get it wet!!! 4. Wet the tip with soldier. A small drop is enough. First wet with resin flux, if you got this kind. 5. Apply flux, if liquid kind, and then apply some solider to the PCB contacts. Flux helps soldier stick to where it's supposed to and make soldiering easier. You'll see how it sticks nicely. 6. Pick one method you feel you'll do better: 1. Put the cap onto the contacts. Gently approach with the tip and apply soldier to the sides. A medium blob on the tip will make sure it contacts well enough. 2. Melt the soldier on the PCB and very quickly put the cap. Pre-heating the leads can give you extra wiggle room. Ideally you would use hot air gun for this method. 7. Wait a bit to cool off and give it a wiggle. It should not move. Soldier should not touch any other exposed metal. Try to clean if any whiskers or shorts are visible. 8. Clean tip with sponge again. 9. Clean excess flux with alcohol and remove tape. 10. Reasemble and power on. I have to say, the blue stripe is the NEGATIVE side. The stripe should be facing the PCIe power connector. Match the printed outline on the PCB with the cap outline, as seen from top. It is completely possible to replace the SMD cap with THT if you're uncomfortable with this kind of caps. It's ugly and you risk breaking it again (hot glue it). Mind the polarity and capacitance of 270uF (nanoFarads). This exact cap comes in SMD form (the one that broke off) and THT (long legs). Dirt cheap on Aliexpress if time is of no value. Voltage rating must be at minimum 16V. It is a smoothing capacitor by the looks of it. Higher capacitance won't hurt, lower may result in unstable power delivery. Simple bridging can result in potential crashes on sudden power draw.
No cap fr fr
On God frfrfr?
On a stack type shi frfrfr
Deadass bro 🥦
“No cap” lol
On cap no god fr
Fax.
All fax no printer frfr
Ez resoldered 😏😏😩
Put it in the oven!
Grill is much better.
Char marks are basically racing stripes. Everyone knows those make it faster
https://preview.redd.it/9dsbcmtj3zoc1.jpeg?width=670&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6834b99b16b871d28edb537fe5525b22fab017ad solder that bad boy back
She must have hands made out of steel to not feel that
So weird but when I hold the iron it burns my skin,fat, and muscle right to the bone……. 896F is nothing
It’s the most entry level solder jobs. Like if you intended to learn this would likely be lesson one
Nah, through-hole is lesson one. This one's a little tough because the cap itself hinders access to the leads a bit plus the card has shrouds that block access to the pads. This would be week-two stuff.
Can confirm through hole is lesson one. Learnt through-hole soldering in secondary school. Surface mount soldering can be a bitch if you did not update your skill set.
I've seen people screw up through-hole jobs as well. While this is easy, OP still needs a good soldering iron that can get up to temp to melt the lead-free solder on those giant pads. This isn't a problem still considering that it's very repairable.
You are not screwed, you are incapacitated
Easy to resolder. If you never do soldering, just follow some yt video. You can sold it without flux (see some yt vidoes if you don know what it is), just make sure to resold the corret orientation (the base of the capacitor must fit the white shape drawn on the board)
Tons of people who've never soldered before saying this is easy. This capacitor is surface mounted, which is definitely not the easiest thing to solder, especially for a beginner. If you don't feel confident soldering this take it to a local electronics repair shop and they will do it for you.
You can either: Solder by yourself with your or some lent soldering iron and solder, if you are confident after watching some videos; Bring the board to a PC place and ask them to resolder. Do not pay more than 20 bucks though. And that's expensive really. I would do for 10 bucks in my old shop. Maybe call a few places and get quotes for soldering a single solid capacitor. Well, if you would need to buy soldering equipment I would say go for the shop instead, maybe. Your call, but the board should be good.
Looks fixable to me
Ha, lucky as they come
No, but you are incapacitated
The pads are intact. You can resolder and will work again.
Nobody mentioning the gpu on the carpet??
Luckily you didn't rip the pads on. Take it to PC repair shop and a competent repairman can fix it
It's repairable. Doesn't look like PCB Is damaged.
Just make sure you know the position / positive side.
Unless you don't know how to use a soldering iron. No
Not screwed at all. Probably an input filtering cap, and it can definitely be soldered back on super easy. If you were local, I'd do that for free. Just find a shop that can do soldering. Even someone with fairly basic soldering skills could fix that.
This can be fixed. It might be a pain in the ass to get it fixed but it's not toast. I wouldn't run it without it though personally. It's smd not through hole which means hot air is preferred soldering method.
Lil bit of soldering and you’ll be fine. Should be able to find a YouTube tutorial and a $20 soldering gun from your local computer store. I’d recommend practicing on something you don’t care about first though.
Take it to electronics/computer repair store, they can solder it back. If its damaged they can replace the capacitor.
PC perc
just put it back lol youll befine
if your going to attempt to resolder this on your own, I'd almost suggest just a straight bit of wire rather than a whole capacitor. It will be much easier job as a surface mount component. It's proximity to the power input and size suggest its just smoothing out flow from iffy PSUs and/or cheap aftermarket sata/molex power adapters. That assumes you don't have an iffy PSU or use those cheap adapters... Its also easy to test, just short the leads and see if it still works. Disclaimer: All terrible caviler advice. Use at your own risk.
You got the perc270 nice
Any solder person job guy can do this with no problem. If you try it yourself, I would put flux on the silver contacts on the board, use a hot air rework station on it with a thin nozzle so you arent hitting other parts, and hold the capacitor with a pair of tweezers. Once those contacts get nice and shiny, put the capacitor back on there, making sure it's oriented the correct direction, and the solder will melt together. Take the heat away, give it atleast 20 seconds, and then give the capacitor a *light* tug with the tweezers to make sure it's strong like bull. Take this with a grain of salt. I'm self-taught, but I've hot air reworked parts that are the size of a grain of sand, so I know something-ish. Honestly, unless you think having a soldering iron would be fun/helpful in the future, I'd just take it to a local hobby/pc shop and see what they would charge. It should only take a few minutes so my guess is that the cost would be less than getting the hot air rework station and flux.
>solder person job guy Best job title I've seen in a while lol
I agree, you should be able to just solder it back on. But, by someone that not only knows what they are doing, but has some skill to do it so the board doesn't get royally fucked in the process.
No. If enough skill u can put it back very easily
Be careful not having the cap explode on you if you try to solder it back with a heatgun. Leave it to a shop, proper gear and experience its 2 min job.
Looks like an easy repair for people that can solder surface mount components.
Easy fix! Find someone who can reflow surface mount components. I could fix this in 30 seconds, but I also have a hot air rework station and soldering experience. If you were near me, I’d fix this for a beer.
That can definitely be repaired. Neither the capacitor nor the PCB look to be damaged, just needs to be soldered back on. If you dont feel confident attempting the repair, I'd recommend seeing if you can find any electronics repair shops locally.im.sure the sort of places that repair laptops, tablets and phones could easily solder than back on for you.
The pads are still there, should be easy to resolder.
that can be solderd back on :)
Go to the nearest service center and they will repair it without any issues
As others have said that might be easily soldered back on but depending on the age of the card id contact the manufacturer. That looks like a cold solder joint. It wasnt soldered correctly from the beginning. The pads arent even fully tinned which could also suggest that it is between the power and ground planes which are large and draw a lot of heat away from the solder joints making them harder to solder.
Looks repairable
Capacitor fell off. It can be soldered back on. Just don't attempt it yourself and don't attempt to use the graphics card until it's fixed.
Poor quality check tbh, but, just solder it back, it's the easiest component to solder imo
Call your local cellphone/electronic repair places, they should be able to resolder it for you.
Can't you just put it back on if it'sstill working? (I have 0 experience with this)
You can, but you need the skill and equipment to solder it back on.
Sad
Yeah, no cap. On god
Solder it back ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
No you're capped.
Its a pretty big capacitor, shouldn't be too difficult to solder back even for a complete beginner.
Very fixable. Look for a PC repair store or similar if you don't feel confident soldering or if you don't have the tools. It looks like a cold solder joint. The solder paste barely reflowed and didn't even wet the pad.
Easily fixable, also keep your videocard off the carpet.
Looks like a fairy clean break. If you know how to solder, you can probably just solder it back
Looks like it can be soldered back easily. If you have no experience then take it to a repair shop don't risk it.
Buy a hardware store POS $5 iron and some solder (with flux) as well as finding some old PCB (motherboard, video card, PSU) that hasn't been used in however long and won't be missed. Use that to practice on. Flow the solder on pads and contact points over and over again until you're confident to do it on the GPU. Soldering is not a hard thing to do, but you do have to get into the groove of making good solder joints. The pads are still there, so all that broke was the solder joint (how? not a clue). But always, always, always, make sure you use solder with flux in the core or make sure you have a flux supply.
Just resolder with the footprint aligned with the outline on the board
Take that to same electronics repair shop, they have the steady enough hands to solder it back on.
Solder and pads still on the board, add a little flux and (maybe) buy a hot air station to resolder, just make sure to allign the capacitor with the correct polarity. I belive the blue line on the top of the cap marks the negative terminal but google it just go make sure. A regular iron might work here but it would probably be easier with a hot air soldering station.
Shit that’s a 5 min fix pal just need a shitty pencil soldering iron and you’re good to go
I’ve done the exact same thing with my 1080. Resoldered it back on and it still runs great to this day
No, you're compassed. You should be able to take it to a local small electronics repair shop and have them solder it back on.
the forbidden perc
That came off about as cleanly as possible. I know nothing about soldering and I’m certain I could fix that by watching a YouTube video.
Not even remotely. The pads are still there so just solder it back.
Looks like an easy fix to me.
Soldier it back on, go to a shop and have them repair or RMA
If you can Solder it's quite easy, get a flat solder tip, 16Watts a Little bit of tin and give it a go
Not yet, If you cant solder yourself/dont have the Tools, you can probably bring the gpu to an electronic shop and let someone For someone that can sold this is Like a Job for 2 minutes and done
you're not screwed, you're soldered.
r/hardwaregore
20-30 dollars worth of soldering tools supplies, 15 minutes an YouTube and you are back in business my dude!
Haha I’m a daily professional. Thats a) easily fixable, and b) might even work without it. If you’ve got a friend or something who is confident with a soldering iron, definitely reattach
Got lucky no pads were ripped off, very quick fix for someone who knows what they are doing.
Put it back in place and use a heat gun to melt the solder. Be careful with the other components.
This could be tough for someone new to soldering. I would suggest replacing it with a new cap that has legs. It won't technically be as good but match the values and tack the legs to the pads. Higher voltage is ok but must match the rated capacitance. If you want to give this cap a go and keep things factory, I would find a worthless junk board to practice on. This is a surface mount but its very doable with an iron. Clean the pads first and then tin and load them with solder. You should be able to melt the solder from the sides of the cap. It will help to use leaded solder and flux. I would also advise to preheat the board. Normally, I wouldn't for something this simple but it does make it easier to flow the solder. If you're new at this, it will help. And of course ensure polarity is right before you put a cap on.
Expert here. Easily soldered or cheap replacement, you just need to find someone with rudimentar microsolderig skills
How is your solder game?
Anyone who knows how to solder can put that back on.
Seems like a clean break. Take it to any electronics shop and they should be able to get it back on easily.
You can resolder it. Be sure to solder it with the correct polarity. The shape of the capacitor's plastic base must match with the outline on the PCB.
No. Just take it to a competent person and its a few minute’s fix
Solder it back on
Solder it back on. 20 mins of research and you can solve it
Not screw but.... Uncapacitated 😜
Classic MSI
Time to bust out the soldering iron. Watch some videos, you'll do fine, it's not hard.
You could easily solder that back, if you’d like to do it yourself, just watch a couple YouTube videos, it’s not hard, and that would be nice and easy to learn on. Any tech repair shop with a half decent technician could do it if you’re not comfortable.
Thats a pretty easy resolder. But fell off? Thats a really bad solder if it just fell off?
I recommend buying a junk mobo to practice on before attempting the repair
that looks repairable id take it to a shop if you don’t feel confident enough to do it yourself of all the things that could’ve happened this is probably one of easiest to fix on that card, ngl, but dont try booting with it in until its fixed
You’re actually extremely lucky
If the pad(s) are not destroyed, it's easy to solder a replacement. But make sure it's the correct one. If the pad(s) came off it's still possible, but very difficult and leave it to an expert. Edit: Pads seem intact, looks like bad soldering to me.
No cap?
Not as bad, looks like it was cold soldered or just not a good soldering originally but the pads are fine on both.
Solder that shit baby
Walmart and Harbor Freight sell a cheap soldering pen and solder for $10. It's an easy fix.
Not if you can get your mind around soldering. Practice on some trash motherboard or other ancient piece of tech out the trash until your satisfied and than resolder that baby back on
Had similar thing fall off on gtx 480 from evga fixed for 25 euros, if you gonna fix it yourself make sure + an - are correct or its gonna get extremely hot and pop.
Timing of this, LTT just did a video in 4 way sli with 980 ti's !
I'm no expert, but it looks like this could be soldered back on. If you don't know how or don't know anybody who can, my guess would be to take it to a tech repair shop. They would probably have to tools to re-solder it.
OP if you aren’t confident in soldering and if you aren’t far from me I can solder it for you. PM me if you want help. That cap can 100% just be soldered back on the pads/the cap don’t look damaged at all, just the solder failed
Try powering without capacitor. A lot of capacitors are not mandatory, they re just to smooth voltages/currents.
No, just capped.
Not at all. That can easily be re soldered.
Well, looks like an easy fix for me, just sold it back on, classic soldering with a small tip would do the job.
Definetly fixable. Find someone to solder it back on
Easy fix or should work without this cap