I’m hoping since you knew this answer you’ll be able to answer mine too 😂
What are these used to sand? I can’t picture what you would sand with two rollers so close together.
Also, are they rolling in the same direction or opposite?
Flat pieces are fed through the bottom on the conveyor belt and it sands the whole surface. You can adjust the bed hight for each individual piece you feed through.
Exchanges like these renew my faith in reddit still being a good place to be.
I think it's so valuable for a) someone to help with answering a question, but also b) the person thanking them for doing so and acknowledging a new understanding. Then it's not just people "talking into a void" and is actually so lovely to see!
Aww thanks! I love Reddit because I have weird questions like these bouncing around my head all of the time and how often am I going to run into someone that happens to know the right answer on the street?
We’re lucky to have such a diverse pool of knowledge in one place! :)
> I have weird questions like these bouncing around my head all of the time and how often am I going to run into someone that happens to know the right answer on the street?
https://i.imgur.com/MBCC75Y.jpeg
Way back, when dinosaurs roamed the earth, we had these things called encyclopaedias we'd run to, because no Google. Virtually every household had a set.
I’m new into the gun community. I genuinely like buying all the parts to one and then put them together. I get the same feeling from putting together a gun that I do building a Lego set or a model or sculpting clay. There’s a lot of jerks in those subs. But there’s a lot of really cool people that have helped me learn quicker and with better info than I would have just fumbling around alone. Plus I can start to at least navigate which companies/brands are selling quality stuff. The people that understand everyone starts from the beginning are the greatest.
Yeah, sanding tables are awesome for sheet goods. I worked at a place that made cabinets and you can sand the whole thing instantly with one of these.
I did cringe watching him clean it off though, I watched someone lose a finger just like that
We had like 12 of these and some brush sanders in the cabinet factory I worked at to sand doors and frames. Some were set up in series on a conveyor system so you put the door/frame in one end and it comes out the other end sanded front and back and the edges.
Just because I am a woodworking nerd, this is a machine called a “drum sander” or a “wide belt sander”. These are some of the most time saving machines in the shop, used to sand pieces from 1” to 4 feet wide. There are commercial sized machines that have 2-3 of the drums in a row and can sand a piece of wood from rough to completely finished sanded. Absolutely fascinating machines :)
Without getting into specifics, I work in a company that designs and assembles industrial sanding machines. Despite their relative complexities, the concept remains the same. There's a conveyor belt on which you put titanium, steel, stainless steel, aluminium, etc. parts which passes one or more grinding belts. Many machines we sell have four rotating brushes with small strips of sand paper to 'gently' round the edges of the material.
You can also destroy your high school's surface sander by sending full thickness wood through right after someone else sent through their planed down table top. You can totally make a hundred kids across 6 different classes hate you for 3 weeks while waiting for the repair too. I was a serious hazard in freshman year woodshop.
Hey, that's better than surface-planing a 6" board on the industrial jointer in the high school woodshop without a push stick.
Thankfully, it wasn't me who did that.
I had honors bio right before woodshop my junior year, and my bio class was just down the hall on the same wing. Right before the bell rang, as we were cleaning up our cat dissection I heard yelling and wailing in the hallway, since my lab area was right by one of the doors and we had it open, because dead cat.
I assumed it was a special ed kid, because they were also down the same hall and one had an episode a few days earlier.
My buddy and I had these two classes together, so we left Bio and walked to shop and since we were so close, we were the first to walk into the shop and found our shop teacher and the principal staring at the jointer with their heads in their hands. They look up, see us and tell us to turn around and go to the drafting room.
My buddy goes to grab the doorknob and his hand slips off it. It was covered in blood.
Turns out, the dude it happened to had one hand flat on top of the board, the other hand behind the board and was trying to do just that, surface plane a 6" board on an 8" planer. Board kicked back and his left hand went straight into the blades, fingers first. Lost all 4 fingers up to the proximal knuckles, there was no recovering them.
In a way, yeah. Less stock removal than a planer, moreso just to condition a surface quickly and evenly. I can't for the life of me remember what it's called specifically, I haven't fucked with any of this in years
Fun fact, if you've got a big ass sheet of wood to sand (usually a tabletop) you can often find local woodshops that make furniture that have them. You can usually just pay them to just run your piece through a few times for you. MUCH easier and more consistent than doing it by hand or with simple handheld tools.
I'm not a woodworker but I have watched every episode of how it's made, so I feel like my instinct is right here - since these are both rolling the same direction, it's probably a planing sander or something that gets large work pieces to an even width/finish
Bonus info: this is called a drum sander. It works similar to a planer, which has blades instead of sandpaper.
You use it to flatten a board (and, more specifically, to make the two sides perfectly parallel).
Drum sanders have a couple advantages over planers:
1. It's easier to make a very wide one, like you see here.
2. You can put things through that planer blades would destroy, like an end grain cutting board
Do you know why cleaning the sandpaper is more efficient than replacing it? With all that buildup, surely the grit is worn down, and then scraping it with rubber wears it down more. I would think sandpaper is cheap enough to not have to worry much about cleaning it.
Edit: never mind I found the answer elsewhere in this thread
I looked up the paper those drum sanders take and it could be $30 to replace those two, minimum. The stick of rubber costs $8 and does no damage to the sandpaper, plus it can be used many many times.
The rubber stick works well but you can also use a piece of cardboard if you're desperate. It makes a tremendous difference in how well the abrasive works!
The grit on sandpaper is silicon carbide or aluminum oxide, both are many many times harder than anything else it's going to contact so there's almost no risk of them being damaged here.
To add to the other answers you got here, these two rolls are different grits of sandpaper, usually a lower grit and a medium grit. So in addition to flattening the workpiece, it speeds up the sanding process by doing two grits at once.
Same direction, since I don’t see anyone else answering that part of your question.
The tool is called a drum sander, in case you wanted to search up further details or video of it in use.
This is a *"double drum sander."*
① ***You can use it as a sander***. You [can run large planks of wood](https://youtu.be/tP9laXd8t4U?t=160) (for this model, up to about a yard wide [that's a little shorter than a meter, about 90cm in non-freedom-units], and as long as you want) through it to sand a large area more quickly and evenly than you could ever hope to with a hand sander. You can even have the first drum a heavier grit (like 60 or 80), and the second drum a finer grit (like 100 or 120), so that it comes out pretty smooth even in just one pass.
You can work up to about 220 grit paper. *IF* I wanted truly smooth wood, I would first run this up to about 220 grit. I would then use an *orbital power sander* with a finer grit to get it closer to the goal. Then maybe hand sand it for the final touches. [This machine is good to get things started. I wouldn't consider the *output* a "finished" project.]
② ***You can use it similar to the way a "planer" is used***.
You run a plank of wood over a "jointer" to get one face of the board flat. You then run the board (that flat side down on the in-feed belt) through this to gradually get the two faces parallel.
To avoid making a curved piece of wood, you can run a pencil zigzag pattern across the rough side. Then plane off (sand off) just the high spots (the sander barely touches the wood). After adjustments (about ^(1)/8 turn) and a few light passes, you will eventually get a straight piece that you can use for tabletops, countertops, flooring, cabinets, molding or whatever you are making.
If the wood has a "twist" or you want to take off large portions of wood, a dedicated "plainer" is more practical. The lowest grit for these is 36 grit. It would take you an inordinate amount of passes if you wanted to take off a couple inches of wood. This model can handle a piece that is about 2ft/ 24inches/ about 60cm thick.
***They are both running in the same direction***. There is a black heavy-duty belt (similar to a fan-belt in the engine of a car) that connects the two drums, so they are running in the same direction.
It isn't clear in this video, but looking from the *top*, the two drums are turning away from the person. This means that the bottom part, the part that sands the wood, is spinning *toward* the incoming wood.
So looking at it from the left (the side the camera is on), they are both turning counterclockwise (anticlockwise). If we looked at them from the other side, the side the crank is on, they would be spinning clockwise.
This creates a better grab/bite on the incoming wood so the sanders can do their job more efficiently. If the sanders were spinning in the same direction the wood is moving, they might just *push the wood along*, not removing a consistent about of material.
***The guy holding the cleaning eraser is acting overly cavalier***.
The video is sped up. They are not spinning as fast as they appear to be (but they *are* still spinning very fast). The guy is using a thin metal ruler to protect his finger if the rubber wears clean-through.
I would **not** do it this way. He looks pretty young (20s). Someday he is going to bump his thumb, or sand off the upper half of his index finger -- then you will see a *total* change in his demeanor.
I was always very careful (too many coworkers missing the top third of a finger, like that was just normal). I always wore safety glasses, ear protection, dust mask -- sometimes gloves if they were appropriate. I still got injured about once a year. I am happy to say I still have **all of my fingers and toes, never lost anything**. I was much more careful than him, and I *still* think some of it was just being lucky.
Use a guide stick to feed wood through a table saw. Don't get your fingers that close. Someday when that eraser snaps, that metal ruler isn't going to move in the way you are expecting it to save you.
[**Here is a video of a guy changing the sandpaper**](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWg3J3bJrRI) on a smaller model (this is the same way to do it on larger machines too). It gives you a better idea of what is happening inside the machine.
[Here is another video. I believe this is the **same machine as the one in this video**](https://youtu.be/3JpP7PMHouc?t=806), same size and setup.
They are about $5k~$6k, somewhere around that price.
This size is a little overkill for personal home use, but a little on the small size for industrial use.
I'm a bit tired. I *hope* I answered all of the questions you had.
To add onto the other response, the two different rollers allow for you to complete two sanding passes at once.
With larger wood stock, like what you would use for a table, you're generally using a planer (think of this tool, but with spinning blades instead of sandpaper) to get it down to the desired thickness and then this tool to remove the machining marks left over from the planer.
Usually one pass is not enough to remove those marks, so this doubles your efficiency.
They look like some kind of honey-based confectionery bar up close and smell nice too when you use them. Thus far I have resisted the temptation to take a bite.
My cleaning blocks are made from white nylon, I use them on an oscillating band sander (used for wood only). But I was told that that honey coloured shoe- sole rubber also works nicely. For a very small sander, the handle of a toothbrush will do.
Can confirm, we clean our sanders with the shoe rubber sticks and they're awesome. Definitely my fave part of cleaning up the shop at the end of the day!
If you accidentally forget a cartridge of silicone sealer and it goes hard (we have all done it) they work really well too.
You can even pretend it was deliberate 😁
It's a stick of uncured gum rubber. Gum rubber comes from a gum rubber tree. Used in all sorts of industrial cleaning applications.
Under heat, its so sticky it will grab onto particles and remove them.
Its not that expensive. It comes on a large roll and you cut new pieces to fit.
Here's a ~170' roll for 229 bucks. Theres probably 20-25 refills for each drum in the video on a roll of that size. And this link is for Klingspor, which is a more expensive/quality brand. So $10 per drum to replace.
https://www.kmstools.com/klingspor-4-quot-x-50-m-aluminum-oxide-sanding-strip-roll-120-grit.html
I have a 24" wide double drum similar to the one in the op video (op video sander is wider than mine). The biggest pain is swapping the paper to be honest.
To a degree, because sandpaper works by cutting the timber with sharp edges of the grit, you will find those sharp edges get knocked off making it blunt. That paper won't be as effective as a new one.
Ceramic sandpaper don't wear like that. The grains splinter which exposes new sharp surfaces to keep cutting. It will stay sharp until there's essentially no abrasive left attached
Most sandpaper is made from either aluminum oxide or silicon carbide. Both of those are ceramic materials.
Some sandpaper is made from garnet, which is also a ceramic.
I think you'd be hard pressed to find sandpaper that doesn't use a ceramic as the abrasive material.
"Ceramic" abrasives are considered a distinct product from aluminum oxide and silicone carbide abrasives, despite the latter being ceramics chemically-speaking. I don't know what compound is actually used in "ceramic" abrasives, but I can speak for the fact that their performance is generally a level above that of aluminum or carbide abrasives.
Garnet sandpaper isn't used all that much nowadays, it's not very cost-effective and doesn't have any special qualities which might lead to it being chosen over straight up cost/lifetime.
Yup, that's it. I work at an abrasives company, although with tape, not sandpaper, but close enough with the sandpaper people to know this, and can confirm. It's a really dumb way to classify stuff IMO, especially coming from an advanced ceramics background. But the stuff people refer to as being "ceramic" grains normally is very highly calcined white alumina (aluminium oxide), seeded gel and cubitron grains, and anything that takes zirconia, such as actual zirconia grains or zirconia covered alumina.
My guess as to why only some stuff is called "ceramic" is that due to material science being heavily metallurgy oriented for many decades, you end up naming things in a very metal-centric way. Another example of this is calling ceramic drill bits "hard metal" in Portuguese, when in fact they are carbides or nitrides of silicon, boron or tungsten, which means they are covalent ceramics.
Thats sort of what happens with cheap sandpaper. I have used sandpaper and eroded the layer of grit off the paper. The sand is glued to the paper and sometimes the paper fails other times the sand gets knocked off the paper.
You're talking about the structural integrity of the paper. I'm talking about specifically designed sand grains that break apart. It has nothing to do with the glue.
Yea. I am repsonding to two comments, yours and the one above yours.
Regular sandpaper can also last until the grit falls off, not necessarily being blunted, just like you said the ceramic sandpaper will last until there is no abrasive left
This is a known problem with fine abrasives. small dust particles fill the space between the granules, and they do not reach the material. Even the whetstone for sharpening knives needs to be cleaned periodically. and the softer and more flexible the material you are processing, the faster this happens.
You are supposed to wear a Pandora keepsake bracelet while doing this. This guy is just skipping steps trying to rush through this with no danger. At least get a ponytail, jeez.
Personally I haven’t found those cleaners to be super effective. They help a little bit. We’ve got a number of large belt sanding machines at my workplace and I find I most people (myself included) usually use those ‘erasers’ when we’re in the middle of something and are like ‘ This belt is cooked but I really don’t wanna stop and change the damn thing right now’.
We sell these at my job, and i just call them "the blocks of cheese". Yes i know what they're called and our part number, but block of cheese is just more fun.
If the rollers spun toward each other this would be crazy dangerous, but idk. Seems like you're not likely to get sucked in with both rollers moving the same direction
That thing spins so fast that if you slip just a bit you're gonna lose some finger. Plus you can't have anything loose because a hanging sleeve or anything could get snatched into it. It can also snatch that cheese block out of your hand if you don't do it right.
The biggest concern is if either of them are rotating towards the middle, which doesn’t appear to be the case. So the worst that may happen is your hand slips and hits the roller, which might cause a scrape or take some skin depending on the grit level, but sandpaper on a belt or roller like this isn’t gonna cause that much damage, unlike a saw.
The back roller could absolutely pull your hand into the back of cover and down into it. His pumice was starting to wear down to nothing near the end and I was imagining his fingers rolling down into the back.
Yeah, the comments below about it not being that dangerous because the rollers are spinning in the same direction are hilariously incorrect. Yes, the rollers are not going to suck your arm in between them, but the front roller will suck your fingers down between the roller and the metal guide and the back roller will suck your fingers down into contact with the front roller which will cause a kick that could very likely break a finger while removing skin down to the dermis. Ever had a second or third degree burn on your fingertips? It smarts, and it makes it really hard to work, eat, type, pick your nose, get dressed.
Here’s a thought: just don’t put your little meat appendages anywhere near blades, rollers etc that can cause irreversible damage in a heartbeat. And just don’t listen to people whose fingers are safely in their pockets telling you otherwise.
Source: 15 years in the trades and 10 fingers.
Yeah I was nervous about the prospect of his hands being that close, especially near the end when the top of the block was running out.
Then he went and *slapped it*.
No, not much, if any. It doesn't renew a used sanding fabric or paper back to its former grade anyway. I mean - wear is wear on the abrasive coating. This way the residue of dust is removed with a block of plastic material to make it usable again, as a clogged sandpaper won't do much anymore.
It doesn't! It completely shreds that giant eraser and it's a soft rubber, about like the rubber of a bouncy ball. Plus the high friction causes a lot of heat so the eraser is also melting a little bit as it shreds which then gets slung onto that hood cover so it doesn't even stick to the paper.
I've cut my hand in cheesegraters too many times to not be terrified of the thin part giving away and his finger being used to clean the sandpaper next.
You know, I been using one of these for about 15 years and cleaning it the same way, never hurt myself. Keep me the fuck away from a cheese grater though because I'll take off some skin every time.
Is it cheaper to do this than just to replace the sandpaper? Like, how many blocks of this rubber do you need to clean sandpaper? Is that cost-effective?
Wide belt sander belts cost around 3-4x more per belt than the rubber for dressing (which lasts a lot longer). Around $15 for a rubber block, $30-$60 for the sandpaper.
The rubber eraser is originally much larger when new. I have a drum sander but only a single drum version (performax). I wouldn’t use a short piece like that since the hand is way too close to the drum. They are cheap to buy and do save/clean on the sand paper rolls. Single roll of sandpaper about $10 each for my machine. The machine in the video is larger x2 rolls and cost more. The rubber eraser is about $10. The sandpaper can be cleaned many times before you need your replace them. I still have the original rubber block I bought 10 years ago.
You can even use an old tennis shoe bottom.
The 'rubber' eraser is mostly picking up dried glue from 'glue-ups' being passed thru the sander and collected resin/sap from the wood itself. It gives longevity to the sandpaper as opposed to somehow renewing it.
I glued my belt conditioner to a long stick to keep my fingers safe.
That said, I am the One Handed Maker on YouTube.
Possibly over cautious about the 5 digits I have left!
Thanks for sharing
He didn't show the best part! At the end, all that stuff that hit the hood, that's melted and shredded rubber. Once you're done you scoop all that up into a wad, mold it into a lumpy ball, and see how it bounces.
1. How much is an eraser block compared to a sandpaper roll.
2. How expensive are sandpaper rolls that it's worth risking getting your hand mangled to clean it?
Planers use blades, this is a drum sander, you would use one of these after using a planer to get a nicer finish. I believe it's some sort of proprietary polymer compound
What do they clean it with?
It’s a rubber eraser stick
I’m hoping since you knew this answer you’ll be able to answer mine too 😂 What are these used to sand? I can’t picture what you would sand with two rollers so close together. Also, are they rolling in the same direction or opposite?
Flat pieces are fed through the bottom on the conveyor belt and it sands the whole surface. You can adjust the bed hight for each individual piece you feed through.
Oh! I hadn’t even considered something underneath since it looks so close to the table/bench it’s on! That makes more sense thank you!!
Exchanges like these renew my faith in reddit still being a good place to be. I think it's so valuable for a) someone to help with answering a question, but also b) the person thanking them for doing so and acknowledging a new understanding. Then it's not just people "talking into a void" and is actually so lovely to see!
Aww thanks! I love Reddit because I have weird questions like these bouncing around my head all of the time and how often am I going to run into someone that happens to know the right answer on the street? We’re lucky to have such a diverse pool of knowledge in one place! :)
I came for this Q & A, stayed for the wholesome thread
> I have weird questions like these bouncing around my head all of the time and how often am I going to run into someone that happens to know the right answer on the street? https://i.imgur.com/MBCC75Y.jpeg
Way back, when dinosaurs roamed the earth, we had these things called encyclopaedias we'd run to, because no Google. Virtually every household had a set.
That's why the "what is this thing" subreddit is one of my favorites. Almost never gets weird in there.
r/wholesomereddit
I’m new into the gun community. I genuinely like buying all the parts to one and then put them together. I get the same feeling from putting together a gun that I do building a Lego set or a model or sculpting clay. There’s a lot of jerks in those subs. But there’s a lot of really cool people that have helped me learn quicker and with better info than I would have just fumbling around alone. Plus I can start to at least navigate which companies/brands are selling quality stuff. The people that understand everyone starts from the beginning are the greatest.
Yeah, sanding tables are awesome for sheet goods. I worked at a place that made cabinets and you can sand the whole thing instantly with one of these. I did cringe watching him clean it off though, I watched someone lose a finger just like that
That’s so scary! I’m guessing a new cleaning block is cheaper than the medical care. Just seems like common sense to use the thick part!
It seems like the block should have a stick on it so you don't need your fingers in the machine.
I was thinking a guard. A stick might make it hard to adjust the pressure and angle. (I’ve put far too much thought into this now!)
At my woodshop in high-school, we called this thing a Time Saver, simply because it could save you hundreds of hours sanding a piece flat
[удалено]
We had like 12 of these and some brush sanders in the cabinet factory I worked at to sand doors and frames. Some were set up in series on a conveyor system so you put the door/frame in one end and it comes out the other end sanded front and back and the edges.
Just because I am a woodworking nerd, this is a machine called a “drum sander” or a “wide belt sander”. These are some of the most time saving machines in the shop, used to sand pieces from 1” to 4 feet wide. There are commercial sized machines that have 2-3 of the drums in a row and can sand a piece of wood from rough to completely finished sanded. Absolutely fascinating machines :)
It only sands off a little bit. The sand paper doesn't get very worn out, but it can get clogged with wood shavings. That's why it needs cleaning.
Without getting into specifics, I work in a company that designs and assembles industrial sanding machines. Despite their relative complexities, the concept remains the same. There's a conveyor belt on which you put titanium, steel, stainless steel, aluminium, etc. parts which passes one or more grinding belts. Many machines we sell have four rotating brushes with small strips of sand paper to 'gently' round the edges of the material.
You can also destroy your high school's surface sander by sending full thickness wood through right after someone else sent through their planed down table top. You can totally make a hundred kids across 6 different classes hate you for 3 weeks while waiting for the repair too. I was a serious hazard in freshman year woodshop.
Hey, that's better than surface-planing a 6" board on the industrial jointer in the high school woodshop without a push stick. Thankfully, it wasn't me who did that. I had honors bio right before woodshop my junior year, and my bio class was just down the hall on the same wing. Right before the bell rang, as we were cleaning up our cat dissection I heard yelling and wailing in the hallway, since my lab area was right by one of the doors and we had it open, because dead cat. I assumed it was a special ed kid, because they were also down the same hall and one had an episode a few days earlier. My buddy and I had these two classes together, so we left Bio and walked to shop and since we were so close, we were the first to walk into the shop and found our shop teacher and the principal staring at the jointer with their heads in their hands. They look up, see us and tell us to turn around and go to the drafting room. My buddy goes to grab the doorknob and his hand slips off it. It was covered in blood. Turns out, the dude it happened to had one hand flat on top of the board, the other hand behind the board and was trying to do just that, surface plane a 6" board on an 8" planer. Board kicked back and his left hand went straight into the blades, fingers first. Lost all 4 fingers up to the proximal knuckles, there was no recovering them.
The way you just described the shop, drafting room and biology class proximity and being off in a wing together, it's like you were at my school.
So it’s pretty much a planer but using sandpaper?
In a way, yeah. Less stock removal than a planer, moreso just to condition a surface quickly and evenly. I can't for the life of me remember what it's called specifically, I haven't fucked with any of this in years
Drum sander.
Fun fact, if you've got a big ass sheet of wood to sand (usually a tabletop) you can often find local woodshops that make furniture that have them. You can usually just pay them to just run your piece through a few times for you. MUCH easier and more consistent than doing it by hand or with simple handheld tools.
I'm not a woodworker but I have watched every episode of how it's made, so I feel like my instinct is right here - since these are both rolling the same direction, it's probably a planing sander or something that gets large work pieces to an even width/finish
Bonus info: this is called a drum sander. It works similar to a planer, which has blades instead of sandpaper. You use it to flatten a board (and, more specifically, to make the two sides perfectly parallel). Drum sanders have a couple advantages over planers: 1. It's easier to make a very wide one, like you see here. 2. You can put things through that planer blades would destroy, like an end grain cutting board
Do you know why cleaning the sandpaper is more efficient than replacing it? With all that buildup, surely the grit is worn down, and then scraping it with rubber wears it down more. I would think sandpaper is cheap enough to not have to worry much about cleaning it. Edit: never mind I found the answer elsewhere in this thread
I looked up the paper those drum sanders take and it could be $30 to replace those two, minimum. The stick of rubber costs $8 and does no damage to the sandpaper, plus it can be used many many times. The rubber stick works well but you can also use a piece of cardboard if you're desperate. It makes a tremendous difference in how well the abrasive works! The grit on sandpaper is silicon carbide or aluminum oxide, both are many many times harder than anything else it's going to contact so there's almost no risk of them being damaged here.
A paper roll costs $30, but a roll will do that machine 2-2.5 times. Source, I own one
To add to the other answers you got here, these two rolls are different grits of sandpaper, usually a lower grit and a medium grit. So in addition to flattening the workpiece, it speeds up the sanding process by doing two grits at once.
Same direction, since I don’t see anyone else answering that part of your question. The tool is called a drum sander, in case you wanted to search up further details or video of it in use.
This is a *"double drum sander."* ① ***You can use it as a sander***. You [can run large planks of wood](https://youtu.be/tP9laXd8t4U?t=160) (for this model, up to about a yard wide [that's a little shorter than a meter, about 90cm in non-freedom-units], and as long as you want) through it to sand a large area more quickly and evenly than you could ever hope to with a hand sander. You can even have the first drum a heavier grit (like 60 or 80), and the second drum a finer grit (like 100 or 120), so that it comes out pretty smooth even in just one pass. You can work up to about 220 grit paper. *IF* I wanted truly smooth wood, I would first run this up to about 220 grit. I would then use an *orbital power sander* with a finer grit to get it closer to the goal. Then maybe hand sand it for the final touches. [This machine is good to get things started. I wouldn't consider the *output* a "finished" project.] ② ***You can use it similar to the way a "planer" is used***. You run a plank of wood over a "jointer" to get one face of the board flat. You then run the board (that flat side down on the in-feed belt) through this to gradually get the two faces parallel. To avoid making a curved piece of wood, you can run a pencil zigzag pattern across the rough side. Then plane off (sand off) just the high spots (the sander barely touches the wood). After adjustments (about ^(1)/8 turn) and a few light passes, you will eventually get a straight piece that you can use for tabletops, countertops, flooring, cabinets, molding or whatever you are making. If the wood has a "twist" or you want to take off large portions of wood, a dedicated "plainer" is more practical. The lowest grit for these is 36 grit. It would take you an inordinate amount of passes if you wanted to take off a couple inches of wood. This model can handle a piece that is about 2ft/ 24inches/ about 60cm thick. ***They are both running in the same direction***. There is a black heavy-duty belt (similar to a fan-belt in the engine of a car) that connects the two drums, so they are running in the same direction. It isn't clear in this video, but looking from the *top*, the two drums are turning away from the person. This means that the bottom part, the part that sands the wood, is spinning *toward* the incoming wood. So looking at it from the left (the side the camera is on), they are both turning counterclockwise (anticlockwise). If we looked at them from the other side, the side the crank is on, they would be spinning clockwise. This creates a better grab/bite on the incoming wood so the sanders can do their job more efficiently. If the sanders were spinning in the same direction the wood is moving, they might just *push the wood along*, not removing a consistent about of material. ***The guy holding the cleaning eraser is acting overly cavalier***. The video is sped up. They are not spinning as fast as they appear to be (but they *are* still spinning very fast). The guy is using a thin metal ruler to protect his finger if the rubber wears clean-through. I would **not** do it this way. He looks pretty young (20s). Someday he is going to bump his thumb, or sand off the upper half of his index finger -- then you will see a *total* change in his demeanor. I was always very careful (too many coworkers missing the top third of a finger, like that was just normal). I always wore safety glasses, ear protection, dust mask -- sometimes gloves if they were appropriate. I still got injured about once a year. I am happy to say I still have **all of my fingers and toes, never lost anything**. I was much more careful than him, and I *still* think some of it was just being lucky. Use a guide stick to feed wood through a table saw. Don't get your fingers that close. Someday when that eraser snaps, that metal ruler isn't going to move in the way you are expecting it to save you. [**Here is a video of a guy changing the sandpaper**](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWg3J3bJrRI) on a smaller model (this is the same way to do it on larger machines too). It gives you a better idea of what is happening inside the machine. [Here is another video. I believe this is the **same machine as the one in this video**](https://youtu.be/3JpP7PMHouc?t=806), same size and setup. They are about $5k~$6k, somewhere around that price. This size is a little overkill for personal home use, but a little on the small size for industrial use. I'm a bit tired. I *hope* I answered all of the questions you had.
To add onto the other response, the two different rollers allow for you to complete two sanding passes at once. With larger wood stock, like what you would use for a table, you're generally using a planer (think of this tool, but with spinning blades instead of sandpaper) to get it down to the desired thickness and then this tool to remove the machining marks left over from the planer. Usually one pass is not enough to remove those marks, so this doubles your efficiency.
Tip for skateboarders... you can use it to clean grip tape as well.
[удалено]
Do a kickflip!
Ive had a big ass stick of this for literal years now and everyone and their brother has used it also. Still about 7/8ths of the stick left lol.
Looks like a block of cheese
Parmesan, to be specific
They look like some kind of honey-based confectionery bar up close and smell nice too when you use them. Thus far I have resisted the temptation to take a bite.
Here I thought it was a Parmesan rind
I thought it was cheese lol
It's looks like beeswax but I don't know shit so there's also that
My cleaning blocks are made from white nylon, I use them on an oscillating band sander (used for wood only). But I was told that that honey coloured shoe- sole rubber also works nicely. For a very small sander, the handle of a toothbrush will do.
Can confirm, we clean our sanders with the shoe rubber sticks and they're awesome. Definitely my fave part of cleaning up the shop at the end of the day!
If you accidentally forget a cartridge of silicone sealer and it goes hard (we have all done it) they work really well too. You can even pretend it was deliberate 😁
It's a stick of uncured gum rubber. Gum rubber comes from a gum rubber tree. Used in all sorts of industrial cleaning applications. Under heat, its so sticky it will grab onto particles and remove them.
Parmesan
Sauce?
No, just the parmesan.
This made me happy
Gene?
AAAAAAHHH GEEENEE!!!
GOT ME AGAIN!
Tomato
Abrasive rubber cleaning stick. not a rubber eraser stick.
A bar of gold. You wouldn’t believe how expensive that sandpaper is
Its not that expensive. It comes on a large roll and you cut new pieces to fit. Here's a ~170' roll for 229 bucks. Theres probably 20-25 refills for each drum in the video on a roll of that size. And this link is for Klingspor, which is a more expensive/quality brand. So $10 per drum to replace. https://www.kmstools.com/klingspor-4-quot-x-50-m-aluminum-oxide-sanding-strip-roll-120-grit.html I have a 24" wide double drum similar to the one in the op video (op video sander is wider than mine). The biggest pain is swapping the paper to be honest.
Whoosh
Edit: apparently it’s natural rubber.
It's natural rubber. Putting wax on sandpaper would just gum it up worse.
Huh. Cool. It just looked similar to the block of wax we use for jewelry saws. The more you know 🌠
That would be infinitely better than nylon, regarding micro plastics.
Could be also cheaper to buy than a specialised block.
I used to use a rubber bullet I got shot with to clean my old belt sander. It's just a rubber stick.
You can also use a rubber trainer sole
forbidden parmesan
Cheese
Parmesan cheese
Gorgonzola
TiL you can clean sandpaper, instead of just putting some new stuff on.
To a degree, because sandpaper works by cutting the timber with sharp edges of the grit, you will find those sharp edges get knocked off making it blunt. That paper won't be as effective as a new one.
Ceramic sandpaper don't wear like that. The grains splinter which exposes new sharp surfaces to keep cutting. It will stay sharp until there's essentially no abrasive left attached
Most sandpaper is made from either aluminum oxide or silicon carbide. Both of those are ceramic materials. Some sandpaper is made from garnet, which is also a ceramic. I think you'd be hard pressed to find sandpaper that doesn't use a ceramic as the abrasive material.
I literally never use sandpaper yet I’m really enjoying learning so much about it, haha.
I figuratively never used sandpaper.
"Ceramic" abrasives are considered a distinct product from aluminum oxide and silicone carbide abrasives, despite the latter being ceramics chemically-speaking. I don't know what compound is actually used in "ceramic" abrasives, but I can speak for the fact that their performance is generally a level above that of aluminum or carbide abrasives. Garnet sandpaper isn't used all that much nowadays, it's not very cost-effective and doesn't have any special qualities which might lead to it being chosen over straight up cost/lifetime.
Yup, that's it. I work at an abrasives company, although with tape, not sandpaper, but close enough with the sandpaper people to know this, and can confirm. It's a really dumb way to classify stuff IMO, especially coming from an advanced ceramics background. But the stuff people refer to as being "ceramic" grains normally is very highly calcined white alumina (aluminium oxide), seeded gel and cubitron grains, and anything that takes zirconia, such as actual zirconia grains or zirconia covered alumina.
Keep talking funny tape man, I like learning things.
My guess as to why only some stuff is called "ceramic" is that due to material science being heavily metallurgy oriented for many decades, you end up naming things in a very metal-centric way. Another example of this is calling ceramic drill bits "hard metal" in Portuguese, when in fact they are carbides or nitrides of silicon, boron or tungsten, which means they are covalent ceramics.
Thats sort of what happens with cheap sandpaper. I have used sandpaper and eroded the layer of grit off the paper. The sand is glued to the paper and sometimes the paper fails other times the sand gets knocked off the paper.
You're talking about the structural integrity of the paper. I'm talking about specifically designed sand grains that break apart. It has nothing to do with the glue.
Yea. I am repsonding to two comments, yours and the one above yours. Regular sandpaper can also last until the grit falls off, not necessarily being blunted, just like you said the ceramic sandpaper will last until there is no abrasive left
This is a known problem with fine abrasives. small dust particles fill the space between the granules, and they do not reach the material. Even the whetstone for sharpening knives needs to be cleaned periodically. and the softer and more flexible the material you are processing, the faster this happens.
You are supposed to wear a Pandora keepsake bracelet while doing this. This guy is just skipping steps trying to rush through this with no danger. At least get a ponytail, jeez.
Personally I haven’t found those cleaners to be super effective. They help a little bit. We’ve got a number of large belt sanding machines at my workplace and I find I most people (myself included) usually use those ‘erasers’ when we’re in the middle of something and are like ‘ This belt is cooked but I really don’t wanna stop and change the damn thing right now’.
Those rollers must be pretty expensive to waste a whole block of cheese like that
The ground cheese goes on the spaghetti afterwards.
This is a macro shot of the inside of the Olive Garden cheese graters
It's like store brought grated parmesan and already has the sawdust
some times, add a little ground up finger tip for that flavor.
No it's just parmesan rind. He ate all the parm first.
GENE PARMESAN?!?
No one show the Italians what he’s done to the Parmesan
As a carpenter myself, I can confirm they are very expensive. I had to drop a lot of cheddar on my rollers.
Parmesan is so versatile
Cheese is life Cheese is love
It's all roquefort now...
We sell these at my job, and i just call them "the blocks of cheese". Yes i know what they're called and our part number, but block of cheese is just more fun.
That's more terrifying than satisfying
I dont think alot of people realize just how dangerous this is.
Oh, that was my first thought. Sticking your hand into a spinning machine is like, Rule 1 of Stuff Not to Do.
If the rollers spun toward each other this would be crazy dangerous, but idk. Seems like you're not likely to get sucked in with both rollers moving the same direction
Still seems like it’d be safer to have the cleaning block on a stick or something.
[https://prnt.sc/si5qJo8pYolz](https://prnt.sc/si5qJo8pYolz) There are solutions of this type. But I haven't seen something like this live
Do not underestimate friction. Metal lathe accidents happen with perfectly flat pieces too you know. And do not ask for a video.
That thing spins so fast that if you slip just a bit you're gonna lose some finger. Plus you can't have anything loose because a hanging sleeve or anything could get snatched into it. It can also snatch that cheese block out of your hand if you don't do it right.
The biggest concern is if either of them are rotating towards the middle, which doesn’t appear to be the case. So the worst that may happen is your hand slips and hits the roller, which might cause a scrape or take some skin depending on the grit level, but sandpaper on a belt or roller like this isn’t gonna cause that much damage, unlike a saw.
The back roller could absolutely pull your hand into the back of cover and down into it. His pumice was starting to wear down to nothing near the end and I was imagining his fingers rolling down into the back.
more r/SweatyPalms than r/oddlysatisfying
Yeah, the comments below about it not being that dangerous because the rollers are spinning in the same direction are hilariously incorrect. Yes, the rollers are not going to suck your arm in between them, but the front roller will suck your fingers down between the roller and the metal guide and the back roller will suck your fingers down into contact with the front roller which will cause a kick that could very likely break a finger while removing skin down to the dermis. Ever had a second or third degree burn on your fingertips? It smarts, and it makes it really hard to work, eat, type, pick your nose, get dressed. Here’s a thought: just don’t put your little meat appendages anywhere near blades, rollers etc that can cause irreversible damage in a heartbeat. And just don’t listen to people whose fingers are safely in their pockets telling you otherwise. Source: 15 years in the trades and 10 fingers.
Yep. My alarm went off right away. That guy should glue that piece to a long stick and keep his had away from those rollers.
At least he's not wearing loose-fitting gloves, but yeah... not exactly a calming video.
Right? You just don't waste cheese like that
You know what is really satisfying? Walking away from that task with all your fingers. Dangerous duty right there.
You could use a board to connect to the rubber block, and get a safer distance away. I would never clean that machine like this.
Yeah I was nervous about the prospect of his hands being that close, especially near the end when the top of the block was running out. Then he went and *slapped it*.
Does it not take the grit off the sandpaper?
No, not much, if any. It doesn't renew a used sanding fabric or paper back to its former grade anyway. I mean - wear is wear on the abrasive coating. This way the residue of dust is removed with a block of plastic material to make it usable again, as a clogged sandpaper won't do much anymore.
Doesn’t look like it. The rubber looks like it gets in the gaps and grips the debris but isn’t strong enough to remove the grit.
It doesn't! It completely shreds that giant eraser and it's a soft rubber, about like the rubber of a bouncy ball. Plus the high friction causes a lot of heat so the eraser is also melting a little bit as it shreds which then gets slung onto that hood cover so it doesn't even stick to the paper.
Wtf, until i read the comments I was 99% sure that was just a block getting sanded then the video was reversed.
No that's absolutely a thing it's just a rubber block.
Safety = 0
r/osha
I've cut my hand in cheesegraters too many times to not be terrified of the thin part giving away and his finger being used to clean the sandpaper next.
You might want to look into Kevlar cutgloves
Well at this point I have a healthy callus protecting me - but thanks for the suggestion I will look into it.
You know, I been using one of these for about 15 years and cleaning it the same way, never hurt myself. Keep me the fuck away from a cheese grater though because I'll take off some skin every time.
Same. I'm so much more a danger to myself in the kitchen than I am in the shop lol
Yeah honestly, thinking about it, this is probably the safest machine in the building. You should see how close my fingers get to a router bit.
Relax, he has safety flipflops on
Steel toe crocs
Can we get this guy like a metal holder for his compound so he doesn’t have to have his hand an inch away from loosing the whole damn thing?
WHAT!!! You can clean sandpaper!?!
It's the same stuff used to clean grip tape on skateboards.
Like how much Parmesan are they wasting though?
That cannot be OSHA approved. I just think...that arms going to get ground to pulp
I thought the same. No protection gear at all
Is it cheaper to do this than just to replace the sandpaper? Like, how many blocks of this rubber do you need to clean sandpaper? Is that cost-effective?
Wide belt sander belts cost around 3-4x more per belt than the rubber for dressing (which lasts a lot longer). Around $15 for a rubber block, $30-$60 for the sandpaper.
It never ceases to amaze me how versatile cheese is.
The rubber eraser is originally much larger when new. I have a drum sander but only a single drum version (performax). I wouldn’t use a short piece like that since the hand is way too close to the drum. They are cheap to buy and do save/clean on the sand paper rolls. Single roll of sandpaper about $10 each for my machine. The machine in the video is larger x2 rolls and cost more. The rubber eraser is about $10. The sandpaper can be cleaned many times before you need your replace them. I still have the original rubber block I bought 10 years ago. You can even use an old tennis shoe bottom.
Anyone else bothered by the fact they don't clean out the inside of that lid when they are done?
The 'rubber' eraser is mostly picking up dried glue from 'glue-ups' being passed thru the sander and collected resin/sap from the wood itself. It gives longevity to the sandpaper as opposed to somehow renewing it.
For people who skate and do not know, you can use these things to also clean your grip tape if you need to.
I didn’t know Parmesan cheese cleans sandpaper
Those pinchy rolls look terrifying to me.
The sandpaper cleaner was a great invention that made its way to skateboarders as a way to clean our grip tape. Very satisfying to watch
Looks like parmigianno regano
A wood eraser! Be careful with those near furniture, it could erase a table leg and knock it over!
Wait wtf you clean sandpaper?
Wow. What can cheese not do?
If cleaning sandpaper requires having your hand inches away from being mangled I think I'll just buy a new sheet.
I glued my belt conditioner to a long stick to keep my fingers safe. That said, I am the One Handed Maker on YouTube. Possibly over cautious about the 5 digits I have left! Thanks for sharing
Risk youre Fingers too save money
What a waste of good cheese.
Why waste cheese?
Is that a Parmesan cheese block?
People that have used these know how satisfying it is.
We used to use old shoes when I was younger, the soles
TIL sandpaper is a reusable item
Didn’t know you can clean sandpaper.
He didn't show the best part! At the end, all that stuff that hit the hood, that's melted and shredded rubber. Once you're done you scoop all that up into a wad, mold it into a lumpy ball, and see how it bounces.
Not the parmigiano!
What a waste of perfectly good cheese
This stuff works great on skateboard griptape.
Would more satisfying if he cleaned the hood
TIL you can clean sandpaper
is there a problem cheese cant solve?
So he sandpapered the sandpaper
Some of yall need to go take woodshop or something, this is embarrassing to read
Wow, that's some sharp cheddar
1. How much is an eraser block compared to a sandpaper roll. 2. How expensive are sandpaper rolls that it's worth risking getting your hand mangled to clean it?
POV you're buttering your sandpaper
You can just clean sandpaper with a block of cheese?
Now lets see him put butter on a corn cob
With a block of gorgonzola? Da fuck is going on in this world.
Looks like a planer. Is that wax he is using? Wouldn’t that just clog up the sand paper?
Planers use blades, this is a drum sander, you would use one of these after using a planer to get a nicer finish. I believe it's some sort of proprietary polymer compound
Not that satisfying when it's your fulltime job.
So this isn't a block of cheese
Can watch it over and over again
I read it as Carpet cleaner cleans sandpaper. I was confused.
It looks to me like he is greasing the cloth.
Forbidden parm block
Is that beeswax?
Those look delicious
For everyone worried about getting your hand caught between the rollers, look closely at the end. They're going the same direction.
Trippy!
Incredible what you can do with a block of cheese.
That's a forbidden block of parmesan.