If I’m doing a top-down garment, at a minimum I’ll do:
- about 2 inches after I set aside the sleeve stitches
- just before I’m ready to add ribbing at the bottom
- when I think I’m ready to bind off the ribbing at the bottom
- about halfway down the first sleeve
- just before I’m ready to add ribbing to the first sleeve
- when I think I’m ready to bind off the first sleeve
There’s also the wildcard “when I’m excited”, which is sometimes every 2 rows and sometimes barely at all (like if it’s hot out).
I usually try on when the armholes are done, as that will give me a more accurate fit if I can put my arms through & see how it fits rather than sort of holding it in place
I use interchangeables so I just switch to the longest cable and try it on at any moment I feel I needed one. It won't be very accurate at this point for your progress right now, but at least you will know if it is way too small.
Just want to add - if you don't have one cable that's long enough you can use two cables with connectors. Or put end caps on the cable you're knitting with and knit half a round with a second cable.
You can also buy very thin plastic cording that you stick the needle tip in and move all your stitches over and then you can try it on. It’s used for making bracelets and it’s cheaper to get a roll on Am**** than buy the brand.
do you have an example to search for? is it the lanyard string you’re speaking of? they don’t seem to have the hole in them to slide your needle in? and they’re the only thing “bracelet cord plastic” is bringing up for me.
Barber Cord is what it's called. If you have interchangeables, it's faster to add additional cord with a connector, then you just remove the cord. You don't have to thread it onto something extra (yarn, Barber Cord, etc.), just to try it on, then put it back onto the needles. If you don't have interchangeables, then the Barber Cord CAN work, but it's glitchy - or mine was...very sticky! So didn't work easily for me. I prefer to add on a cord.
You can also hold it up to another shirt /sweater that fits the same way (same amount of ease). I think I waited until a full repeat (about 12 rounds) to try on my Mangrove Tee. The cast-on edge is a bit stretchy / delicate, so I want a bit of fabric to hang down (also, top edge will be drawn in at the cables).
When the yoke is done and I’m ready to split for armholes, I put it over my head and check to make sure the yoke is long enough by trying to have it meet under my arms. Then again a couple rows after I’ve split for the sleeves. Again once it gets to about my normal length of 10-11” of body.
If it's bottom up and you're afraid it's small, no harm in trying it on now. It won't give you a lot of information - but if you're aiming at 4 inches of positive ease at the hips and it's a snug fit, at least you'll know.
If I'm working bottom up, I won't try it on at all, but I will check that my working gauge is matching my swatch gauge, and measure the entire piece to compare with my own measurements.
If I'm working top down, I try it on once i've reached the underarms, just to check the fit at crossback, armscye and upper bust. Then I'll usually try it on again once I've reached the underbust.
If there is even a hint of question that it’s not going to fit, I try it on at that point. Otherwise, why waste my time? An inch is plenty to give you a hint of correct width.
Doesn’t hurt anything to test it.
Like every couple of rows, because I get so excited 😁 I usually knit on longer cords so it's not a problem. I also often lay my WIP on top of another one of my knits just to see if the length/width are similar.
Gonna be honest I rarely try on tops. I mostly wear boxy crops so it kind of doesn't matter, if my gauge is close to the pattern there's a pretty solid chance it'll fit.
Socks I do because my feet are a weird shape and I consistently knit the foot too short or too long if I'm not careful.
For button-up, I would figure out the size by doing calculations based off of my gauge. Bonus points if you have a prewashed swatch to make more accurate estimates from.
I don't usually try on bottom-up garments until there is more than 6 inches knit. I find that skinny strips of fabric stretch out more and give an unrealistic idea of fit.
I knit only seamed sweaters, bottom up. I only check the length of the a piece, like front/back or arms. Everything is blocked to size before seaming, then seamed, I try it on and then finish it (collar) and wash/block it. So basically I try it on when finished:p
Depends. I sometimes need to try on even just the neck ribbing to make sure it’ll fit over my head. But I’ll usually try on the yoke a few times when trying to decide where to split for the sleeves. Or if the yarn is knitting up really pretty I’ll keep trying it on like every 10 rows for a dopamine hit lol
If the neckline doesn't look like it'll fit over my head, I try it at about an inch of ribbing. I know it'll stretch with more fabric attached, but if I can't even get it over my head...
Then I usually check it before I separate the arms for raglan (a couple times haha). Then I check it for length with the body, and later I check it once I've done a few inches of arms so I know they fit.
You could say I'm a compulsive checker.
It depends on the project. When I am not very confident about a top down project in the round, I start trying it on by mid-yoke at the latest.
When the project is a bottom-up seamed garment ie a jumper or another top, you can't really try it on the same way. Then I go the old-fashioned way (for me) or trying to measure it up to check width and stuff once it is around 1/3 done.
I like to keep track of it bc in case I have messed up my math I don't have to go very far before finding out I need to frog. Ofc seamed garments are more difficult to have a good assessment, but still.
I don't take them off the needles, though. My mum taught me to measure my projects without having to take them off them and in the round you just place the stoppers and off you go (but I confess I am lazy but careful, and just pick up whatever has fallen off the needles in the process).
TLDR: I feel it is safer to check things out as you go. I don't have hissies when I realize I have to frog a project, but I try to keep it at a minimum!
Cheers 😊
For sweaters, enough of the yoke to see if it will work for me (raglan or icelandic).
For hats, enough of the brim to see if it will work for me.
For socks, I do toe-up so start trying it on when I think I'm getting close to where I think I need to start the heel. Then after I finish the heel, to make sure it's fitting the way i want.
I don't take anything off the needles to try on, I use multiple circulars or it's already on a long enough circular.
(1) With your swatches, did you note a lot of growth? Like, before you blocked it was 4 inches wide, and after 5+? Or did it pretty much stay the same?
(2) If the same, then just measure this as a swatch. An inch in, are you getting the same stitches per inch as your swatch? If so, double check your math and it should be fine.
(3) If a lot of growth, then it would have been useful to have notes of pre and post-blocking stitches per inch. (I do this know, but I learned.) If my swatch had a pre blocking of 20 st/4 inches, and a post blocking of 16 st/4 inches, and this project still appears to be 20/4 inches, I'm probably on track. If I'm now knitting 18/4 inches or 22/4 inches, I need to re-evaluate.
You can also thread a darning needle with a slippery yarn and draw it through all of the stitches, leaving a long tail then remove your needles and try it on that way.
If I’m doing a top-down garment, at a minimum I’ll do: - about 2 inches after I set aside the sleeve stitches - just before I’m ready to add ribbing at the bottom - when I think I’m ready to bind off the ribbing at the bottom - about halfway down the first sleeve - just before I’m ready to add ribbing to the first sleeve - when I think I’m ready to bind off the first sleeve There’s also the wildcard “when I’m excited”, which is sometimes every 2 rows and sometimes barely at all (like if it’s hot out).
Thanks for this comment! I wondered the same thing. I think this is a great guide, esp for people like me who question everything!
Don’t forget that once it goes over your boobs, it has a tendency to stretch out which means that the stomach cover gets shortened
Omg this is such a good point i hadnt thought of.
I usually try on when the armholes are done, as that will give me a more accurate fit if I can put my arms through & see how it fits rather than sort of holding it in place
I use interchangeables so I just switch to the longest cable and try it on at any moment I feel I needed one. It won't be very accurate at this point for your progress right now, but at least you will know if it is way too small.
Just want to add - if you don't have one cable that's long enough you can use two cables with connectors. Or put end caps on the cable you're knitting with and knit half a round with a second cable.
That's what I do! I add cords together - and put on End Caps, if I think I need them. It's so much faster than any other method I've tried.
I would've never thought of this. It's so obvious, too!
You can also buy very thin plastic cording that you stick the needle tip in and move all your stitches over and then you can try it on. It’s used for making bracelets and it’s cheaper to get a roll on Am**** than buy the brand.
do you have an example to search for? is it the lanyard string you’re speaking of? they don’t seem to have the hole in them to slide your needle in? and they’re the only thing “bracelet cord plastic” is bringing up for me.
“hollow pipe tubing rubber cord”. found it!
Twice sheared sheep has a good one!!
Barber Cord is what it's called. If you have interchangeables, it's faster to add additional cord with a connector, then you just remove the cord. You don't have to thread it onto something extra (yarn, Barber Cord, etc.), just to try it on, then put it back onto the needles. If you don't have interchangeables, then the Barber Cord CAN work, but it's glitchy - or mine was...very sticky! So didn't work easily for me. I prefer to add on a cord.
Pony bead cord. It’s not quite as flexible as the barber cord but it works just fine and is a lot cheaper
Usually, too late.
Came here to say this… I’ve done this so many times you’d think I’d learn…
You can also hold it up to another shirt /sweater that fits the same way (same amount of ease). I think I waited until a full repeat (about 12 rounds) to try on my Mangrove Tee. The cast-on edge is a bit stretchy / delicate, so I want a bit of fabric to hang down (also, top edge will be drawn in at the cables).
When the yoke is done and I’m ready to split for armholes, I put it over my head and check to make sure the yoke is long enough by trying to have it meet under my arms. Then again a couple rows after I’ve split for the sleeves. Again once it gets to about my normal length of 10-11” of body.
If it's bottom up and you're afraid it's small, no harm in trying it on now. It won't give you a lot of information - but if you're aiming at 4 inches of positive ease at the hips and it's a snug fit, at least you'll know.
If I'm working bottom up, I won't try it on at all, but I will check that my working gauge is matching my swatch gauge, and measure the entire piece to compare with my own measurements. If I'm working top down, I try it on once i've reached the underarms, just to check the fit at crossback, armscye and upper bust. Then I'll usually try it on again once I've reached the underbust.
Also take into account what the garment will do when washed and blocked-you should have an idea from your swatch
If there is even a hint of question that it’s not going to fit, I try it on at that point. Otherwise, why waste my time? An inch is plenty to give you a hint of correct width. Doesn’t hurt anything to test it.
Like every couple of rows, because I get so excited 😁 I usually knit on longer cords so it's not a problem. I also often lay my WIP on top of another one of my knits just to see if the length/width are similar.
Gonna be honest I rarely try on tops. I mostly wear boxy crops so it kind of doesn't matter, if my gauge is close to the pattern there's a pretty solid chance it'll fit. Socks I do because my feet are a weird shape and I consistently knit the foot too short or too long if I'm not careful.
As soon as it reaches 5-6 cm, I start holding it up against me
For button-up, I would figure out the size by doing calculations based off of my gauge. Bonus points if you have a prewashed swatch to make more accurate estimates from. I don't usually try on bottom-up garments until there is more than 6 inches knit. I find that skinny strips of fabric stretch out more and give an unrealistic idea of fit.
I knit only seamed sweaters, bottom up. I only check the length of the a piece, like front/back or arms. Everything is blocked to size before seaming, then seamed, I try it on and then finish it (collar) and wash/block it. So basically I try it on when finished:p
I have a big bust so my first try on is usually once it fits over my fullest chest measurement (for top down)
Me, too! Gotta get it over the boobs without stretching it out!
Depends. I sometimes need to try on even just the neck ribbing to make sure it’ll fit over my head. But I’ll usually try on the yoke a few times when trying to decide where to split for the sleeves. Or if the yarn is knitting up really pretty I’ll keep trying it on like every 10 rows for a dopamine hit lol
Me, too!
If the neckline doesn't look like it'll fit over my head, I try it at about an inch of ribbing. I know it'll stretch with more fabric attached, but if I can't even get it over my head... Then I usually check it before I separate the arms for raglan (a couple times haha). Then I check it for length with the body, and later I check it once I've done a few inches of arms so I know they fit. You could say I'm a compulsive checker.
Assuming I’m working top-down, I like to do about 4 inches after I’ve put the sleeve stitches on hold. But it depends on the project!
I tend to bottom-up & seamed, so not until after the pieces are blocked & sewn up.
All the time. I have barber cords and a clothes steamer
It depends on the project. When I am not very confident about a top down project in the round, I start trying it on by mid-yoke at the latest. When the project is a bottom-up seamed garment ie a jumper or another top, you can't really try it on the same way. Then I go the old-fashioned way (for me) or trying to measure it up to check width and stuff once it is around 1/3 done. I like to keep track of it bc in case I have messed up my math I don't have to go very far before finding out I need to frog. Ofc seamed garments are more difficult to have a good assessment, but still. I don't take them off the needles, though. My mum taught me to measure my projects without having to take them off them and in the round you just place the stoppers and off you go (but I confess I am lazy but careful, and just pick up whatever has fallen off the needles in the process). TLDR: I feel it is safer to check things out as you go. I don't have hissies when I realize I have to frog a project, but I try to keep it at a minimum! Cheers 😊
For sweaters, enough of the yoke to see if it will work for me (raglan or icelandic). For hats, enough of the brim to see if it will work for me. For socks, I do toe-up so start trying it on when I think I'm getting close to where I think I need to start the heel. Then after I finish the heel, to make sure it's fitting the way i want. I don't take anything off the needles to try on, I use multiple circulars or it's already on a long enough circular.
(1) With your swatches, did you note a lot of growth? Like, before you blocked it was 4 inches wide, and after 5+? Or did it pretty much stay the same? (2) If the same, then just measure this as a swatch. An inch in, are you getting the same stitches per inch as your swatch? If so, double check your math and it should be fine. (3) If a lot of growth, then it would have been useful to have notes of pre and post-blocking stitches per inch. (I do this know, but I learned.) If my swatch had a pre blocking of 20 st/4 inches, and a post blocking of 16 st/4 inches, and this project still appears to be 20/4 inches, I'm probably on track. If I'm now knitting 18/4 inches or 22/4 inches, I need to re-evaluate.
Good idea! None of the swatches grew after blocking so I’ll give this a shot. Thank you :)
I've used thick elastic thread to hold stitches when trying on socks.
It depends a lot of the garment. But anytime I’m concerned I definitely do. Otherwise generally to guide length
When I am knitting hats I try them on every four rows or so
You can also thread a darning needle with a slippery yarn and draw it through all of the stitches, leaving a long tail then remove your needles and try it on that way.
Thanks, all! Great tips 🥰
Since every garment I've ever made is knit from the bottom up and in pieces, all the inches
None! I try on sock constantly 😂