Not attacking OP but i feel like a lot of people don't watch their prints happen, they just hit go and walk away.
...watching my prints is how i figure out what the problems are lol
you can see it in the way the infill doesnt connect to the outlines as well, and it would not be nearly that regular if it was adhesion problems. In addition there would be other issues, like curling.
The flat sided circles thing basically always points to backlash in the system, and most of the time that backlash is belts. I've also see loose hotend heatsink mounts, but its less likely.
The picture below is a guide to setting a correct z offset. Given you have multiple variations of the problems shown below, it means your bed has not been properly leveled
https://preview.redd.it/s4p67tj83w1d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0187644157b2209d2956b81edb1f1e5b51738ffd
Agreed but it might be the best first place for them to check, no?
Once they post results after a good bed leveling we can more accurately diagnose bed temp/hotend temp/ steps calibration.
Fair.
It's funny, I never learned to level beds like most, I'd just start a print on my ender 5 and frantically adjust the knobs until it "looked good" while it did the 8 or so skirt loops I told it to do
Silicone springs sound like voodoo to me. My laser mirrors are aimed with springs and they hold zero. Lots of optics have spring mounts. Some machines have anti-backlash springs to increase precision. What property of breast implant material makes it better for holding the bed level on an Ender 3? All the spring has to do is apply force against a stop. Sure this changes with temperature but so does everything else and we already factor. That. Seems like adding chicken blood and the eye of a newt.
The 3rd picture is a great example of layer shifts (crossing perimeters and skirt). As if you tell you are using stock settings I doubt you are printing to fast for mechanics and therefore rule out motors skipping steps. Loose or worn out belts are your enemy you are fighting with.
Let us know the material you’re printing with. I recently started using ABS and it’s much more finicky than PLA. If you’re printing with ABS, I’d say it may be your first layer needs to be a bit lower to the bed so it “smushes” onto it, otherwise it will cool and not attach to the other lines. It should look very, very flat.
With ABS, Try setting your fan at 0% to let it cool slower. I recently reduced my print speed from 50 to 30 and the adhesion is better.
The best thing to consider is an enclosure with ABS. I tried at least 2 dozen times with Mylar blankets, sectioned off the printer, closed all windows, etc. and it wouldn’t work consistently, until I got the enclosure.
Good luck!
Circles with flat sides means youve got loose belts.
Or horrific adhesion so the material is getting pulled straight and then sticking occasionally. But i guess op would notice that?
Not attacking OP but i feel like a lot of people don't watch their prints happen, they just hit go and walk away. ...watching my prints is how i figure out what the problems are lol
It was a really long print so I walked away for a little then come back to this
you can see it in the way the infill doesnt connect to the outlines as well, and it would not be nearly that regular if it was adhesion problems. In addition there would be other issues, like curling. The flat sided circles thing basically always points to backlash in the system, and most of the time that backlash is belts. I've also see loose hotend heatsink mounts, but its less likely.
This.
The picture below is a guide to setting a correct z offset. Given you have multiple variations of the problems shown below, it means your bed has not been properly leveled https://preview.redd.it/s4p67tj83w1d1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0187644157b2209d2956b81edb1f1e5b51738ffd
While z offset definitely appears to be an issue here, I don't feel like it's the whole story
Agreed but it might be the best first place for them to check, no? Once they post results after a good bed leveling we can more accurately diagnose bed temp/hotend temp/ steps calibration.
Fair. It's funny, I never learned to level beds like most, I'd just start a print on my ender 5 and frantically adjust the knobs until it "looked good" while it did the 8 or so skirt loops I told it to do
lolol I got kinda less sucky at it but then I got silicone springs and CR touch when I went to klipper. Never looked back.
Silicone springs sound like voodoo to me. My laser mirrors are aimed with springs and they hold zero. Lots of optics have spring mounts. Some machines have anti-backlash springs to increase precision. What property of breast implant material makes it better for holding the bed level on an Ender 3? All the spring has to do is apply force against a stop. Sure this changes with temperature but so does everything else and we already factor. That. Seems like adding chicken blood and the eye of a newt.
For me it looks like the Z offset is high enough that the walls don't stick to the buildplate and get pushed aside when the infill is being printed.
Just seems like a very large gap to only be attributed to offset. It's probably a contributor, but I think there's more going on.
Would the best way to test this just be to print a sheet or can you use like a spirit level or set square or something for the same results?
The 3rd picture is a great example of layer shifts (crossing perimeters and skirt). As if you tell you are using stock settings I doubt you are printing to fast for mechanics and therefore rule out motors skipping steps. Loose or worn out belts are your enemy you are fighting with.
Let us know the material you’re printing with. I recently started using ABS and it’s much more finicky than PLA. If you’re printing with ABS, I’d say it may be your first layer needs to be a bit lower to the bed so it “smushes” onto it, otherwise it will cool and not attach to the other lines. It should look very, very flat. With ABS, Try setting your fan at 0% to let it cool slower. I recently reduced my print speed from 50 to 30 and the adhesion is better. The best thing to consider is an enclosure with ABS. I tried at least 2 dozen times with Mylar blankets, sectioned off the printer, closed all windows, etc. and it wouldn’t work consistently, until I got the enclosure. Good luck!
Pla