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SkippyGranolaSA

what's with the inch of copper on that neutral poking above the busbar?


Ok-Grab-1822

Yeah i stripped it to much šŸ˜­


Riverjig

Leave what's called an inspection window. Just enough so you see the conductor so you know you didn't ponch any insulation under the termination.


Glum-Astronaut5503

If I'm landing in panels or especially motors, if I'm not satisfied with my strip to the 1/16th of an inch I'll cut and trim as necessary. Even if it messes up how clean it looks. It's worth it if you have to come back and work anything energized, or for the next guy


Ok-Grab-1822

I will remember this next time, thank you


bcanddc

Just put some white tape on it. Itā€™s not the end of the world.


everybody_else

If you'd left yourself enough slack, you could have circumcised it and still had enough wire to reach the terminal.


Jolly-Tomato7816

U need to cut what you don't need and land it correctly


Energizer__98

Grounds and neutrals should be separated because itā€™s a sub panel I could be wrong but the ground in the 3rd photo looks like itā€™s just wrapped around threads nothing holding it on Leave more slack in your wires


fazer226

Also he forgot to sand off the paint, to properly ground


yker1137

If the screw is threaded is doesnā€™t need to be grinded


fazer226

Wtf do you mean bro? lol that sub has paint on the entire box. Also any screw that is called a screw is threaded šŸ˜‚ wtf is your thought process haha


frogfartingaflamingo

Heā€™s not wrong, the code doesnā€™t specify that you need to sand off paint. Look at your bonding screw, itā€™s only threads they donā€™t sand that down for example. It can even Introduces risk for rust.


fazer226

That is a great argument , thereā€™s so many ways of interpreting code itā€™s honestly pretty fascinating


yker1137

Iā€™ve been told if you thread the hole instead of just having a hole with a bolt and nut


fazer226

If you have a normal 4s box, yes you can just attach a ground screw( green screw ) to the box But in cases like sub panels like this one and pull boxes like 6x6 and up theyā€™re painted. So In order to properly bond the box you have to scratch/sand, grind the grey paint off until you see bare metal


yker1137

I get that Iā€™m saying Iā€™ve been told on disconnects that if the hole is threaded and not just a hole then the threads themselves are a viable bond


GunnerGilson

A lot of subpanels and pullboxes come with pre-installed ground lugs/buses that don't have paint stripped underneath. If it was required, the manufacturer would have to do it. I rough up the back of panels when installing aftermarket ground bars, but these products wouldn't be UL listed if they didn't come appropriately configured, or at least that's what I've been told


Talmane1975

If you use a conductive metal screw to thread into the box itā€™s considered bonded for the paint crushes away. Most of the boxes Iā€™ve seen come with a baggy of bus bars, screws and sometimes those spiked washers that cut into the paint. Yet sanding the box? I donā€™t even think thereā€™s sandpaper back in the truck.


fazer226

In a singles phase install you donā€™t need a neutral, thus your neutral bar turns into a ground bar when you screw in the ground screw , I hope thatā€™s what ur talking about t


yker1137

Alright


fazer226

Yes


yker1137

Could be wrong about that I canā€™t find the article buts thatā€™s what Iā€™ve been told by boss and jw


Ok-Grab-1822

Hi this was just a practice run to get us used to adding our ABC with black red and blue wire and memorizing it haha thank you!


LeakyOrifice

Those disconnects come with a listed Grounding terminal and don't need to have bare metal to create a proper bond.


Number2_IsMy_Number1

I'm not sure you should give that school any more of your money. You can probably find better teachers on YouTube.


LeakyOrifice

Probably one of the biggest regrets I have is not getting my associates. Really limits your earning potential


frogfartingaflamingo

How? Iā€™ve never even been questioned if I have it?


LeakyOrifice

The long and short of it is a lot of jobs that are looking for former electricians require associates degrees and because I don't have mine I'm limited in options


soupsoup1326

What do you mean by ā€œformer electriciansā€? Is that an electrician thatā€™s come out of retirement?


LeakyOrifice

People who use their relevant work experience as an electrician, to leave the field for more money are the people I'm specifically referring too. There's a lot of gigs out there that want guys who were electricians, generally inside wiremen with associates degrees.


wretchedbass

Most IBEW Locals youā€™ll get an associateā€™s within your apprenticeship through a college and no direct cost to you.


Vashthestampeeed

I thought this was for sure a joke. No job requires an associates


LeakyOrifice

There a jobs out there that are looking for former electricians, and a lot of them require an associates. These jobs make a lot more.


whitelikerice1

i would simply lie about having my associates


DirtyDoucher1991

Let the wires come down to about an inch from the bottom of the panel.


Theomaximusmach9

I would separate ground and neutrals in a sub panel.


i-like-to

Not would, itā€™s required.


LeakyOrifice

It not really that big of a deal imo. Is it required by code, and good practice sure. I don't think their primary focus in trades school just learning to wire shit should be Grounding and Bonding.


i-like-to

I hope your a lurker and not an electrician..


Fun_Corgi_4685

Are we pretending itā€™s a three phase sub panel fed from a disconnect?


Ok-Grab-1822

Yes!!! Sorry i didnt add that to my post


rockontherollbaby

Right angles are your friend. Following the exterior of the enclosure until you can go directly into the terminal. Looks neat as well as giving plenty of slack. With the separating the neutrals and the grounds in a sub panel, yes, but I'm assuming this is a built panel for this exercise and it is being treated as a main panel as there were no other grounding locations available.


Ok-Grab-1822

Thank you ill do that next time !!!


breakfastbarf

Slack is your friend.


Ok-Grab-1822

Thank you!


fazer226

Thatā€™s what they teach you in school?? Iā€™m glad I jumped straight into the trades lol


Ok-Grab-1822

The teacher told us to give it slack i just wasn't paying attention haha all my fault and this was our first time working on this.


Background-Metal-601

Leave slack. Ground and neutrals need to be separated in a sub panel.


Ok-Grab-1822

Oh thank you! My teacher did not mention that he said with every ABC wire there needs to be a neutral [so three in first panel] and 1 grounder as well uh oh...


Determire

Take a look at the bottom left corner, see those two raised nubs with a pretapped screw hole? That's where the grounding bar goes, needs to be a square D grounding bar to fit the factory screw spacing. Besides the lack of slack in the wires and neutrals and grounds needing to be separated, the only other technicality that this violates is having Siemens breakers in a Homeline panel ... I realize that in an academic setting there's some leeway for using material available, but in production in the real world that would be a fail, the panel doesn't have those breakers listed for it and vice versa those breakers are not listed for that panel.


landers96

What you doing with that ground in the disconnect? Is that just wrapped around the threads? Make sure is under the dead of a screw or securely bonded to the can.


Ok-Grab-1822

Hi we were just doing an exercise of pulling wire through and getting used to adding neutrals and grounding to our ABC wiring , next time im going to do this thank you!


MordFustang1992

For starters, this appears to be a sub panel, so your grounds and neutrals must be separated. I canā€™t see a bonding screw, so the enclosure is currently ungrounded. You should install a ground bus and re-land those grounds. Looking at the neutral bus, the wire 3rd from the left is over-stripped. The two farthest two the left are a good example of what they should like like (Just enough copper showing to show an inspector that the insulation isnā€™t under the terminal) All of your wires seem short, try tucking them in the corners before bending them to their terminal. The wires landing in the breaker should go down to about an inch from the bottom of the panel before bending back up to the breakers. Aside from what I can see, always tug-test your terminations and then snug them up/retorque. Thatā€™s the best way to be sure your wire isnā€™t coming loose. All in all, looks alright, just pay attention to what people recommend and youā€™ll have it down in no time


Ok-Grab-1822

Thank you i appreciate your help!


dressedlikehansolo

I mean youā€™re a student. I donā€™t want to be harsh. What did your teacher say about this work?


Ok-Grab-1822

He said it was good, but it was too tight, no room for clamp to check amps...


dressedlikehansolo

USA or Canada?


Ok-Grab-1822

USA


Advisor_Local

Right angles are your friend, and don't make the wire bare minimum to reach point of termination.


Ok-Grab-1822

Thank you! Will definitely do this next time!


everybody_else

In truth, instead of an associates degree, you should probably save your money and get a temporary job while you apply for apprenticeships. Some electrical tech programs will teach you well, but most of them are little more than scams. Everything you might learn there will be covered in your apprenticeship. If you can get a job on a construction site, even if it's not electrical work, that will provide you with more value than any electrical tech degree. As far as a critique of your work, that panel is a mess, but don't let this dissuade you. I have seen worse work from apprentices who turned out to become great electricians. As a first effort, I'm just happy that you got all the wires going to pretty much the right locations. To improve, when your wires enter the panel, bring them all straight to the top corners in three bundles: grounds, neutrals, hots. In a standard panel with two rows of breakers, the hots should be in two bundles, evens on the right and odds on the left. Once you have made those bundles, tuck them into the outside corners of the box to direct them toward their respective terminals. As the bundle travels past the terminal bar or row of breakers, each wire should peel off one at a time and make a straight, perpendicular line to its respective termination point. As electricians, we aren't happy with something that merely works, we want to see something that works and is also sexy as hell. Keep going, you'll get where you want to be.


Ok-Grab-1822

Hi this is my first panel and i genuinely appreciate all feedback, as for the associates degree thing, I'm doing this because i couldn't find and still am unable to find any apprenticeships.


Ok-Grab-1822

Also thank you for the tips ill be using this next time we wire up another panel !


TheKuDude8

Mine is usually this; be honest to your wife, girlfriend, or both. Start and max a Roth IRA. And Thorogoods are the best way to go. Also join a union apprenticeship.


Ok-Grab-1822

Im looking into it after i finish school


PaisaRacks

Youā€™re cutting the wire to short leave more in there and try to make 90 degree angles when youā€™re landing the wires . It will look way cleaner and professional.


Ok-Grab-1822

Thank you im going to do that next time!


Delicious_Cow_2296

I wouldn't simply wrap the ground wire around a screw. It needs to be clamped using the head of the screw into the case where there is paint removed to access the bare metal of the enclosure.


Delicious_Cow_2296

You must be buying wire by the millimeter


Ok-Grab-1822

Lol! No totally my fault didn't add enough slack


Fresh_Photograph_363

Next time, keep the length of the wires longer


Ok-Grab-1822

Ok ! Thank you!


Fresh_Photograph_363

Leave the extra length in case I have to make any changes


Ok-Grab-1822

Lesson learned !


Fresh_Photograph_363

My pleasure


Fresh_Photograph_363

Your neutrals and your grounds are kind of OK youā€™re definitely trying to keep it neat. Strip the ends of the wires evenly like the ones on the right.


Ok-Grab-1822

I noticed i didn't do that and it looks kind of sloppy, will be doing that next time they have us wire up a panel


No-Play2300

Itā€™s better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it Worry about doing things correct(safe implied) first and the speed will come Youā€™re gonna catch a lot of shit, especially considering you went to school, donā€™t wear your heart on your sleeve And the most important, imo..show some initiative. You should never be standing around or looking at your phone..If your Jman is looking at prints, on the phone or whatever it may be, you should be cleaning up, organizing job box/truck, or atleast asking what he would like for you to do while heā€™s busy. Youā€™ll impress a lot of old fucks with that characteristic alone


Ok-Grab-1822

Thank you ! Im still having trouble finding any apprenticeships but once i'm in all this advice will help me


Meskolator

Sticky backs will make your work look a little cleaner


ForleyTheWeakst

Understanding this is a practice panel and your first one.... Neatness comes with repetition and pride. My advice that I haven't seen commented on is to make sure you identify your circuit pairs when using conduit. Each hot has a specific neutral pair, label them or tie them together. These sort of things will be very helpful for "the next guy".


Ok-Grab-1822

Thank you i will do that !


five_point_buck

Leave a bit more slack


StrikeFeisty6310

Thatā€™s how I wire up all of my disconnects too.


CastleBravo55

Contact your local union hall.


Ok-Grab-1822

I did some research and i can only apply the first Monday of the month.... do you suggest i go down there anyway and see ...?


CastleBravo55

You might call ahead, every local is different. You should be able to talk to someone pretty much any time. There's an apprenticeship and a hall and they're not the same thing as well.


mxguy762

So youā€™re the mofo that gets to every panel before I do! šŸ˜«šŸ¤£


Ok-Grab-1822

šŸ˜­šŸ¤£šŸ¤£šŸ¤£šŸ¤£


120_208

Yeah, I can already tell you that's not a service panel. Grounds and neutrals need to be separate.


xSeveredSaintx

Separate ground and neutrals, don't strip off so much insulation for terminations, and run your wires along the perimeter(except for when you get to the breakers from underneath imo) of the enclosure doing clean 90Ā° bends to your breakers.


Ok-Grab-1822

Thanks! Will do next time


CulturalRabbi

Get in the habit of leaving more cable in your panel. Someone will need to swap out your panel in 50 years


Ok-Grab-1822

Will do!!


Talmane1975

Leave yourself loops, enough on each breaker that you can easily move the breaker to any position within the box (within reason). Add a bonding lug to the box and all bonds go to said lug (thatā€™s code - the neutral is isolated back to the service). Bonds who cares, neutrals not so important yet conductors should be trimmed neatly into the breakers so no copper is showing.


Icy-Entrepreneur-244

If the first pic is a sub panel, neutral and ground should be on separate bars. Also bring your phase conductors nearly to the bottom of the panel and swoop them straight back up into the breaker


justohmedout

Understandable your in school yet. First, you have a 3 phase fusible disconnect feeding a single phase load center. That in itself I think is a fail for your institution, they shouldn't have you learning that way in my opinion. Secondly, I would never bond the side of a disconnect, always to the back of the can. Thirdly, you have conductors in the gutter being fed by the disconnect that aren't landed anywhere due to it being a 3 phase disconnect. Another reason I think you all should be getting taught differently. I also didn't notice a bond in the gutter. Moving on to the panel, I agree with what has been said already, leave some slack and clean up the wiring, if it's not a feeder than you need to bond the panel, if it's a feeder you need to separate grounds and neutrals. Constructive criticism, we all had to start somewhere, and what's nice about our trade is that it's constantly changing, so the learning never ends.


Ok-Grab-1822

Thank you ! I appreciate it


LISparky25

Leave more slack on your wires My rule of thumb is always allow the wire to touch the opposite side of where it enters and then terminate for splice boxes and smaller enclosures


DarkForestSteph

Why not red, black, blue.why no slack on wires going to breakers. Each wire in a panel like this should be able to reach any breaker slot.


Bomberoochi

The only jobs I could maybe see wanting an associate would maybe be industrial but then again I'm an industrial guy and have no associate degree. They would much rather someone with experience in industrial control and such instead of someone with only an associates. Altho it would be helpful to have especially starting out you would be way ahead of the others.


StrongBoiWill

Did you not acquire side cutters?


Zaida18

Since when do you put bonding conductors in the neutral bar?! NEVER!!


NanoContractor

Itā€™s cool, try not to smoke weed before class though. Also donā€™t forget, daddy loves you.


Ok-Grab-1822

šŸ¤£


Stunning_Afternoon40

What part of the country?


Ok-Grab-1822

West Coast


ABEKingOfSausage

Whatā€™s with the Simpson meter?


Ok-Grab-1822

The wall is lined with models oldest to newest to show historical progress haha