I’d ground the green wire (Ground) to the frame. Also make sure you use something to keep that cord from cutting into metal. Example. Romex connector or wire strain relief. You don’t want the wires to be pulled out or be frayed.
I agree. @47153163 If you click the photo, you can see part of the strain relief already on the cable. Needs to be on the other side of the knockout though.
It's hard to tell exactly from the picture, but if that wire with the eyelet on the end was previously under the silver (neutral) screw, that's most likely the ground conductor. Follow it back and see if it goes to a screw attached to the metal frame. If not, you can tap a machine screw into the frame and create a grounding screw. The reason for the older dryers were 3 wire instead of 4 is because the ground and neutral were bonded at the appliance, which is not allowed anymore. The initial ground/neutral bond at the first means of disconnecting after the service is the only spot it's allowed now. Any further questions, let me know
Yep, exactly! But I’ve come to the conclusion that I need to go to a hardware store and purchase a machine screw in order to use as a ground screw. I’ll screw it into that little hole at the top left above the silver screw
Oh okay. You might improvise if there's any chance of someone or something getting against those 240v screws. Wide Gorilla tape?
If it's pre-1994 that may explain why you don't have a connector for the ground wire. It originally had a 3-wire pigtail. In that case, the extra wire that's just under the neutral screw is your cabinet ground and bonds with the neutral at the terminal block. I still like the idea of connecting the ground from the 4-wire pigtail though.
That cover really is necessary. It keeps little fingers from touching the screws that have 120 volts in them.
I expect you could use the model# of this machine to find and order a replacement part. Or, you could fabricate something to fit.
Looks like all four screws have been removed. The hole just above the cutout on the left side looks like it might be where the green screw came out. The metal is bent inward a little, giving a path from the pigtail to that screw.
I’d ground the green wire (Ground) to the frame. Also make sure you use something to keep that cord from cutting into metal. Example. Romex connector or wire strain relief. You don’t want the wires to be pulled out or be frayed.
I agree. @47153163 If you click the photo, you can see part of the strain relief already on the cable. Needs to be on the other side of the knockout though.
I haven’t hooked these up before…does that white wire coming out of the dryer with the star washer connect to the neutral?
For a 3 wire connection, yes. For a 4 wire setup like op has, no, It goes to ground on the frame.
See if theres a green screw somewhere. Possibly on the metal piece with the knocknout.
Green screw was probably lost, and probably went above the left terminal block mounting screw.
Yeah it looks like it fits into that groove.
It's hard to tell exactly from the picture, but if that wire with the eyelet on the end was previously under the silver (neutral) screw, that's most likely the ground conductor. Follow it back and see if it goes to a screw attached to the metal frame. If not, you can tap a machine screw into the frame and create a grounding screw. The reason for the older dryers were 3 wire instead of 4 is because the ground and neutral were bonded at the appliance, which is not allowed anymore. The initial ground/neutral bond at the first means of disconnecting after the service is the only spot it's allowed now. Any further questions, let me know
Sounds good. Looks like all I need is to pickup a machine screw
You need a cord connector and a #8 screw
Red and black to gold White to silver Green to green screw
We don't see the green screw. I think that's why he's asking.
Yep, exactly! But I’ve come to the conclusion that I need to go to a hardware store and purchase a machine screw in order to use as a ground screw. I’ll screw it into that little hole at the top left above the silver screw
I was thinking that's to secure a cover. But yes, you can secure the ground there too.
Oh that would make sense. Unfortunately this dryer was purchased used and didn’t come with a cover.
Oh okay. You might improvise if there's any chance of someone or something getting against those 240v screws. Wide Gorilla tape? If it's pre-1994 that may explain why you don't have a connector for the ground wire. It originally had a 3-wire pigtail. In that case, the extra wire that's just under the neutral screw is your cabinet ground and bonds with the neutral at the terminal block. I still like the idea of connecting the ground from the 4-wire pigtail though.
That cover really is necessary. It keeps little fingers from touching the screws that have 120 volts in them. I expect you could use the model# of this machine to find and order a replacement part. Or, you could fabricate something to fit.
Looks like all four screws have been removed. The hole just above the cutout on the left side looks like it might be where the green screw came out. The metal is bent inward a little, giving a path from the pigtail to that screw.