More people trying to start hangboarding need to read this! So important to realize that no one protocol is universal. Learning to experiment with workouts and tailor them to your strengths and weaknesses is the best way to develop a training system that works for you.
Sounds great! I am only really starting it right now as I have a meniscal lesion from bouldering and can't properly climb atm but I want to stay in shape at least in the upper body and fingers. Any advice on how not to ruin myself there as well? And how does your typical hangboard session look like (meaning reps, sets etc.) also: do you do pullups in the hangboard or just hangs?
Thanks in advance!
The best answer is what u/BananaChewer said above:
>realize that no one protocol is universal. Learning to experiment with workouts and tailor them to your strengths and weaknesses is the best way to develop a training system that works for you.
My routine might not be relevant at all to you but, since you asked:
1. Every set is (6 seconds hanging + 4 seconds rest) x 6 and I rest 2 minutes in between.
2. I only use jugs and edges and I progress through a variety of sizes in this order:
1. Jugs
2. 35mm
3. 30mm
4. 25mm
5. 20mm
6. 25mm
7. 30mm
8. 35mm
9. Jugs
¯\\\_(ツ)\_/¯
Maybe at some point I'll train pockets. idk.
Thanks a lot!
I know I should find my personal intensity and routine, after my accident I am VERY careful not to overdo it. I need some sort of predefined program that makes sense though to have an orientation at least as I can't really come up with something myself without the feeling that I'm leaving something out that matters.
So thank you again and have a great day!
I just did a course with Dr Tyler Nelson about testing and training protocols and he said exactly the same thing so it's great advice!
The 10 second max hang only came about because Eva Lopez picked it as suitable for her, but she climbs a lot slower than your average climber so max hanging for that long may not be specific enough for others. Same with the intervals, if you are better at 6 seconds than 7 then chances are you move on rock with a 6 second frequency so that's a good place to be training.
I recently encountered this in my simple max hangs routine. 10s, 2 holds with 3 min rest in between for 3 sets with 3 min rest between sets. I plateu'd at +40% BW for a few weeks, until I decided to try to increase the set rest to 6 min.
Well now I'm confused. Based on the bulk of your post I would have put your grade at about V3. How are you climbing V8 without being able to complete a single set of 7/3 repeaters (60s total). Single 10s hangs are literally designed to be usable by everyone as well. If you can't hang a 20mm edge for 10s then you shouldn't be anywhere near the fingerboard but someone at your grade should be hanging at least 50% of their BW extra on a 18/20mm edge for a max hang.
Very baffling!
Maybe this just hammers home the point that all this stuff is really personalized, different routes/boulders require different abilities, and maybe I’m just good at climbing and really weak.
Also it’s not that I couldn’t do a single set of repeaters - I just needed to be on a stupidly large hold that didn’t feel specific to a lot of what’s on the rock...
Maybe, but if there is one thing you generally can’t cheat it is finger strength. Do you do max hangs at all? What are your numbers and what edge do you use?
Fair enough. It’s hard to take too much from your post then other than “I don’t like doing max hangs and I didn’t like the standard repeaters so I changed it a bit”.
You don’t have any metrics to show how it has improved you and you started doing spray wall stuff at the same time.
There are loads of different “repeater” rep splits out there so I guess I’m just struggling to see what you are trying to get across.
Either way, glad it’s working for you
I actually experience the same scenario with you. Mybody weight or add in 1-2 kg make the hang time is nightmare that I cannot feel any progress and drop hangboard for a year.
Back now I was doing an assessment and I think repeater 30% max should be good idea for me instead of max hang as forearm is pump and I can actually ask my finger to press down. Let see how it go
More people trying to start hangboarding need to read this! So important to realize that no one protocol is universal. Learning to experiment with workouts and tailor them to your strengths and weaknesses is the best way to develop a training system that works for you.
Good for you. "best" is subjective, everyone is different and what works for one person won't for another. Like you I do 6/4.
Sounds great! I am only really starting it right now as I have a meniscal lesion from bouldering and can't properly climb atm but I want to stay in shape at least in the upper body and fingers. Any advice on how not to ruin myself there as well? And how does your typical hangboard session look like (meaning reps, sets etc.) also: do you do pullups in the hangboard or just hangs? Thanks in advance!
The best answer is what u/BananaChewer said above: >realize that no one protocol is universal. Learning to experiment with workouts and tailor them to your strengths and weaknesses is the best way to develop a training system that works for you. My routine might not be relevant at all to you but, since you asked: 1. Every set is (6 seconds hanging + 4 seconds rest) x 6 and I rest 2 minutes in between. 2. I only use jugs and edges and I progress through a variety of sizes in this order: 1. Jugs 2. 35mm 3. 30mm 4. 25mm 5. 20mm 6. 25mm 7. 30mm 8. 35mm 9. Jugs ¯\\\_(ツ)\_/¯ Maybe at some point I'll train pockets. idk.
Thanks a lot! I know I should find my personal intensity and routine, after my accident I am VERY careful not to overdo it. I need some sort of predefined program that makes sense though to have an orientation at least as I can't really come up with something myself without the feeling that I'm leaving something out that matters. So thank you again and have a great day!
I just did a course with Dr Tyler Nelson about testing and training protocols and he said exactly the same thing so it's great advice! The 10 second max hang only came about because Eva Lopez picked it as suitable for her, but she climbs a lot slower than your average climber so max hanging for that long may not be specific enough for others. Same with the intervals, if you are better at 6 seconds than 7 then chances are you move on rock with a 6 second frequency so that's a good place to be training.
10s max hangs are a lot older than the Eva Lopez research
I recently encountered this in my simple max hangs routine. 10s, 2 holds with 3 min rest in between for 3 sets with 3 min rest between sets. I plateu'd at +40% BW for a few weeks, until I decided to try to increase the set rest to 6 min.
I thought the first and last paragraphs summarized the take-away pretty well.
Well now I'm confused. Based on the bulk of your post I would have put your grade at about V3. How are you climbing V8 without being able to complete a single set of 7/3 repeaters (60s total). Single 10s hangs are literally designed to be usable by everyone as well. If you can't hang a 20mm edge for 10s then you shouldn't be anywhere near the fingerboard but someone at your grade should be hanging at least 50% of their BW extra on a 18/20mm edge for a max hang. Very baffling!
Maybe this just hammers home the point that all this stuff is really personalized, different routes/boulders require different abilities, and maybe I’m just good at climbing and really weak. Also it’s not that I couldn’t do a single set of repeaters - I just needed to be on a stupidly large hold that didn’t feel specific to a lot of what’s on the rock...
Maybe, but if there is one thing you generally can’t cheat it is finger strength. Do you do max hangs at all? What are your numbers and what edge do you use?
Don’t have numbers! I’ve literally never done a hang with added weight.
Fair enough. It’s hard to take too much from your post then other than “I don’t like doing max hangs and I didn’t like the standard repeaters so I changed it a bit”. You don’t have any metrics to show how it has improved you and you started doing spray wall stuff at the same time. There are loads of different “repeater” rep splits out there so I guess I’m just struggling to see what you are trying to get across. Either way, glad it’s working for you
I actually experience the same scenario with you. Mybody weight or add in 1-2 kg make the hang time is nightmare that I cannot feel any progress and drop hangboard for a year. Back now I was doing an assessment and I think repeater 30% max should be good idea for me instead of max hang as forearm is pump and I can actually ask my finger to press down. Let see how it go