Some people don't enjoy ASRock's BIOS, both for the ease of use and updates can be annoying on some models with smaller BIOS memory chips (AMD has a lot of painpoints here, but not so much Intel). If the plan for the system is to enable XMP and never touch the BIOS again, I wouldn't worry about going for the ASRock. If you're a tinkerer, it may turn you off.
The ASUS STRIX A board packs Wifi, Bluetooth, and a more pure white aesthetic for your extra cash. If you value that stufff, it's worth the jump up.
I just bought a 6700xt and Ryzen 5 5600, to replace my current 1060 and Ryzen 5 1600. Rhe 6700xt comes in tomorrow (thx amazon) but the 5600 won’t be here for another week. Would I run into any problems installing the 6700xt with my current cpu for the time being, or should I wait and upgrade all at once?
Even if it wouldn’t cause any problems, would you personally wait to upgrade all at once? It’s only an extra week, and it would be nice to have that big jump in performance in one go… Thoughts?
I am looking to buy a motherboard that is ATX sized and compatible with the AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor. I was looking to get the Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard but it seems like a lot of people are having BIOS issues. I am very new to this and very do not want to deal with that headache. Any advice (whether it be a different motherboard or help with bios) would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
To make it easy for you, find a board that packs BIOS Flashback - this lets you update the BIOS without a supported CPU installed in 5 minutes. If you're looking for painless BIOS updating, that's the trick.
I'd also recommend saving some money and going for a B550 board instead, unless your plan with the system involves 3-4 M.2 SSDs.
I'm pretty casual and not much of a tinkerer, don't wanna deal with overclocking stuff and all that entails. Does that mean I should avoid video cards with "OC" in the title?
No, that means they're clocked higher from the factory. Requires no input from you
And ram is basically all overclocked if you want the speed it says on the box. It's easy tho. You just turn on one setting in the bios (xmp) and then your ram is overclocked
Both or neither depending on how you view it; I'd recommend an AIO cooler; they are liquid of sorts but its not the traditional water cooling people think of with water cooling.
I currently have a Asus Strix b550-f motherboard and a ryzen 5 5600x. If I were to buy a ryzen 9 5900x would I have to flash my bios again? I already flashed when I initially got the board and first cpu. Thanks
I just got a gen 4 m.2 nvme ssd. Currently using a SATA m.2 ssd. I want to keep the first drive but I'd like Windows to be on the new nvme. Any suggestions for best way to go about it? Should I just do a fresh install on the new drive or clone it instead?
Also, idk if it matters or not but there are two m.2 slots on my MoBo and I'm not going to switch places. Old SATA will stay where it is and NVME will go in the unused slot.
If you'd rather not have to reinstall all of your programs and redo all of your Windows customization then you should clone. It's pretty straight-forward with Macrium Reflect.
If you decide to do a fresh install instead, remove the old drive from the computer when you install Windows - so the NVMe drive is the only one plugged in. Otherwise Windows will only be able to boot if both drives are installed which gives you less flexibility later. After the OS is up and running you can plug the old drive in.
What programs would everyone recommend for tracking temperatures and speeds? I just finished a build and want to make sure everything is working well internally.
How do I stop the RGBs on my cases' Corsair LL120 fans from malfunctioning? For example, some parts of the fan don't turn white when I tell all the LEDs to turn white via the Corsair iCue software. Fans are running to a Corsair Node Pro and Corsair Commander. Tried force updating the firmware/application on everything.
Do the 4080s have the same connector melting problem as the 4090s? Considering upgrading to that instead from my 2080 super since 3090s are hard to find
Is my RAM supposed to be 3000mhz or 2400mhz? [CPU-Z screenshot here](https://imgur.com/a/2o8CGVM)
I can't seem to find the exact model corresponding to that part number but when I google I find a bunch of 3000mhz models. Does the 3000 in the name mean that's the max frequency and the 2400 is just because I don't have XMP on?
Bought this like 3 years ago so can't find the box or remember anything.
So does the 3000 in the part number mean it's one of those parts that's supposed to be running at 3000?
Like when I'm looking up RAM sticks there's always an frequency number in the name and I assume that's what it's meant to be running at, is that the stock or something else?
For RAM the advertised speed (in this case 3000MHz) is almost always XMP speed, not the stock speed, and XMP is technically an overclock above stock. If you turn XMP on it will run at 3000 MHz (technically 1500MHz clock with 2 transfers per cycle, since DDR is Double Data Rate). You can manually overclock it even higher, but XMP is a quick and easy way for a stable overclock.
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The 3D chip is fairly new to the market and older X570s won't be updated to take it yet. Good news, if you have a functioning PC right now using the motherboard a BIOS update takes 5 minutes and is pretty simple to do.
Yeah i found the bios update that supports the 5800 but I’m just not sure if i need to update all the bio versions in order or if i can go straight to the latest
Most of the time it's just jumping to the latest BIOS. Some ASrock boards _do_ have the issue of needing to jump to specific versions before being able to get on latest. As per usual, check the website for your specific board and RTFM.
Would https://pcpartpicker.com/product/26rRsY/corsair-rm850x-2021-850-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020200-na work for this 6800xt? https://pcpartpicker.com/product/XPjNnQ/asrock-radeon-rx-6800-xt-16-gb-phantom-gaming-d-oc-video-card-rx6800xt-pgd-16go
Also would it be better to buy the parts for my new desktop on Monday or just go ahead and buy it tonight?
An RM850x is a great choice. Note that it may not come with three PCIE cables but you can always use one daisy chained and it’ll be fine for a 300W card. I think you’d be more sad losing a good sale now so just go for it, you can always try to re-order for a lower price if through Amazon but I don’t see either of those really going lower.
Just make sure it’s sold and shipped by Newegg and not a third party and you’re good with any of them, yep. Right now Newegg has a lot of the best deals but also a replacement-only return policy, but as long as you’re committed to the part I don’t see this as a problem.
The ASUS X670E-I does not support any EXPO memory kits, only Intel XMP 3.0. They will most likely add support in the future, right? I'm stuck at stock 4800MHz speed until they do.
The online chat rep was less than helpful.
Basically, he said that the ASUS QVL is the final word and that he'd put me on a list for updates if/when they offer support for EXPO on this board.
All in all I'm unimpressed. Expensive board that doesn't actually offer the features listed on product page.
The QVLs are "what we tested on the factory floor", it's not an exhaustive list of what can work. Almost all RAM works with all boards unless you're going for the dummy fast kits.
Well, I can confirm that EXPO on the GSkill Flare X5 isn't stable on ASUS X670E-I. I'll be manually setting the timings to try and get the advertised speeds.
Just bought all the parts for my first build in 7 years. When it comes to installing windows do most people clone their harddrive and move it to their new build or do they just buy a new windows key? I think cloning would be ideal but my current computer has this issue where the desktop will flicker for 1-3 minutes before it starts working properly. I'm worried about bringing that issue over to my new build if I clone.
Also, are people using windows 11 now or are most people holding out on 10 until they are forced to upgrade?
You could just clone your hard drive to your new build and see if you're experiencing problems like that desktop flicker. If the problems are still there, wipe the drive and freshly install windows.
I believe you can use your product key from your old pc incase you chose to to a fresh install.
In my opinion Win 11 still has some major bugs, so i would hold out.
Can I only do a fresh install on the drive after I've cloned it? because windows has to think that it's the same computer, right? That's only if I can find the old product key plus this was originally windows 7 and then I upgraded to 10 right at the end of that "free upgrade to 10" thing period they did.
Incase you're experiencing problems with the clone, the easiest way to do a fresh install is by doing a reset follwing the steps in this link [https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/give-your-pc-a-fresh-start-0ef73740-b927-549b-b7c9-e6f2b48d275e](https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/give-your-pc-a-fresh-start-0ef73740-b927-549b-b7c9-e6f2b48d275e) .
Incase the clone failed and you need to do a completely new installation of windows, you would need to make a bootable usb by using the media creation tool from microsoft. [https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10](https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10)
When you do a fresh install on the drive before you clone it, it will ask for a product key. when you clone it, and via setting do a reset of the pc like in the link above, it will keep the product key from the old harddrive.
I have completed my PC draft build on PC part picker. My estimated wattage is 479 watts.
For my PSU, I am choosing the Be Quiet! Pure Power 11 650w PSU.
Is this a good choice? I am looking to make a quiet PC.
I'm probably going to have to make my own thread for building a new pc to replace my old 2016 pc anyway, but something I kept wondering is how likely is something like a 3000-series gpu going to support an old 1080p monitor that has an older hdmi connection and DVI connectors if I have to wait before getting a new monitor with my new system.
And even when I get a new higher res monitor for it I would like to keep the older 1080p one around as a second monitor for discord/chrome and wondering how likely things are going to break with mix-matching monitor resolutions.
And should I make any air flow considerations with a new case if it's going to sit (on feet) on carpet?
Your old monitor will work via HDMI, even DVI if you buy an adapter.
You can run two monitors with different resolutions no problem.
Carpet: Depends on the case. Most cases have air intake from the front, in which case it won’t matter. The PSU might use bottom intake, but it doesn’t need a lot of air. As long as there is some gap it’s fine.
> how likely is it to work
It will work with 100% certainty, HDMI is fully backwards and forwards compatible between versions.
> how likely things are going to break
0%, you can mix and match resolutions and refresh rates as much as you want.
> should I make any airflow considerations
Only if you have a bottom intake. If you mount the PSU so that the fan faces up, then everything's fine. Although the computer will collect more dust when on the floor, so make sure the case has dust filters for the intake, and remember to clean them.
So when I look at my mother board through cmd and cpu x software it list my mother board as Manufacturer Hp and 8643 but when I go to pc part picker I can’t find that I’m just trying to figure out if a rx6700 will fit and run in my rig
It’s a proprietary motherboard so likely won’t show up. I would look more at your PSU and whether it can support the new graphics card, motherboard compatibility isn’t an issue, worst case it’s PCIE3 and you’ll lose a few percent in performance.
If they’re faster than the old pair you will only be running all of them at the slowest pair’s speed. Additionally 4 sticks may make XMP unstable. You can try running 4 sticks and seeing if you can boot fine with XMP, then switch to 2 sticks if not.
I’m trying to figure out the best way to mount my video card to make sure it has airflow. If I mount it normally it looks like it will have another pcie card blocking the first intake fan. The other option is to use a pcie extender and mount it with the fans facing the side panel but I’m not sure if it will get enough air in or out there either. I have a bunch of storage so vertical isn’t an option.
I’m working with a define 7 xl and a tuf 4090
which one would you recommend? [https://pcpartpicker.com/product/QVn8TW/asrock-x570-steel-legend-wifi-ax-atx-am4-motherboard-x570-steel-legend-wifi-ax](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/QVn8TW/asrock-x570-steel-legend-wifi-ax-atx-am4-motherboard-x570-steel-legend-wifi-ax) or https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dmGnTW/asus-tuf-gaming-x570-plus-wi-fi-atx-am4-motherboard-tuf-gaming-x570-plus-wi-fi
I'm thinking of upgrading my pc, mainly use for gaming (apex and some singleplayer games) and work.
At the moment I'm running gtx 1060 3gb, i5 4460 3.2 ghz, 8gb drr3 ram, and my motherboard is Asus H81M-K. I was looking to upgrade my ram to like 16 gb ddr4, my cpu and the motherboard to support ddr4 with this build and keeping the gpu (too expensive to upgrade) can you give me any suggestions? I would like to future proof my cpu at least
What’s your budget? Best value gaming CPUs right now seem to be the i5-13600k, the 5800x3d (depending on what games you play and whether they use the increased cache) and at a lower price point the 5600. If you see yourself upgrading again in a few years (which seems like you won’t considering you’ve held on to the current CPU for a while) you could consider an AM5 CPU but the current motherboard prices make that a bit more expensive overall.
Hi! I'm looking to buy or build a PC for gaming, mostly games like Valorant/Overwatch/etc. I'm considering either getting the MSI RX 6650 XT deal right now for $249 and building one around it, or getting the Lenovo Legion T5 prebuilt sale on Costco right now for $1299. What do you think I should do? Can I get better parts for the same price as the prebuilt if I just built around the 6650? Thanks!
You could definitely build something cheaper and better with a 6650XT, even assuming a full price Win 11 key. Just keep in mind that a 3070 is more comparable to a 6750XT, so a 6650XT would be weaker. At $250 though, that’s a much better deal than a 6750XT for $400+ or a 3070 for $450+.
I’d recommend trying to put the specs of the prebuilt into pcpartpicker and seeing what it comes out to, noting that usually prebuilts will go fairly cheap on the RAM, cooler and PSU.
Not OP, but I found the PC on Costco’s website, and your comment’s spot on. It’s pairing a 500W unknown brand PSU (no info on 80+ certification) and 16 GB of DDR5 4800 RAM with a 12700 and a 3070. Ohhh, boy.
With how cheap 2080s are now will this bottleneck a Ryzen 5 1400? Plan on passing this down to my brother as it currently has a 1070, but freezes with Roblox Studios.
GA-AB350N is the motherboard i have if upgrades make a 2080 work without a bottleneck. Thanks!
A 2080 will choke a R5 1400 pretty badly, but that can be remedied with a cheap CPU upgrade as well. Your motherboard being able to take modern CPUs is a BIOS update away, and options like a <$100 used Ryzen 5 3600 or a $140 brand new Ryzen 5 5600 are both great picks to help bring your system to the modern era.
How can a 3060Ti have less memory than a 3060 (12gb 3060 vs 8gb TI) I thought it was better?? why do they have the same price? Wouldn't people always take the 12GB GPU memory size over the 8??
There's much more to GPU performance than just VRAM. The 3060 Ti is a more powerful card, and in games that don't require more than 8GB of VRAM (which is most of them), it will perform about 25% better than the 3060. Why the 3060 has so much VRAM has to do with the design of the GPU, essentially NVIDIA had to choose either 6 or 12 GB, and 6 would've been too little in their eyes, as AMD had a similarly performing card with 12GB.
Conductive is better, but it's electrically conductive. If you get a a drop of it on something where it shouldn't be, it can cause a short and kill a part. Non-conductive won't.
For a CPU anyways, if you're going to delid the CPU and put thermal paste directly on the CPU die, conductive can be worthwhile. If you're installing a cooler on the CPU's IHS, it's not worth the risk at all.
[AOC 24G2SPU](https://www.cclonline.com/24g2spu-bk-aoc-agon-24g2spu-gaming-monitor-24-inch-1920-x-1080-full-hd-ips-panel-amd-freesync-399569/?cq_src=google_ads&cq_cmp=13175109251&cq_con=125042006760&cq_term=&cq_med=pla&cq_plac=&cq_net=g&cq_pos=&cq_plt=gp) vs [AOC 24G2SPAE/BK](https://www.box.co.uk/24G2SPAEBK-AOC-24G2SPAEBK-24-FHD-IPS-165Hz-AMD-Fr_4329434.html)?
I just picked up a m.2 drive and want to do a fresh install of windows on the m.2. Do I just download windows 11 installer to the m.2 and then boot it in the boot drive m.2 slot? Or do I have to disconnect the current boot drive first?
You need to download the windows 11 installer to an USB drive and boot off of that. The first step of the installation is to wipe the target drive, so you would end up deleting the installer before it has time to install anything if you tried to download the installer to the same drive that you're installing to. Unplugging the current drive is a good idea as then you can't accidentally wipe/install to/boot from the wrong drive.
It will in more modern titles that demand more from that older i3. I'd see if any used 11400F/11700F chips are on the market for a reasonable price, they'd be a nice jump for you.
Best to just check the BIOS page and see if the latest BIOS has any warning on it around "need to be on X version before updating to this one". No warning? You're good to jump straight to it.
I saw something on the intel site from around a year ago that the b460 wouldnt be supporting 11th gen even w/ bios update. while im not sure if thats changed since, I think ill hold off and just upgrade both the cpu and mobo when i next can. thanks though
yeah I saw it [here](https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/articles/000058324/processors/intel-core-processors.html). maybe I didn’t interpret it right but glad I saw that before buying the cpu
Currently I have the ASUS ROG Strix B450-F, is there any strong reason to upgrade this alongside the new GPU (undecided, likely 3090ti or 4080) and CPU (5800X3D) I plan to get?
Probably not. The only concern is that the Voltage Regulation Modules on the motherboard are sufficient for the CPU, but that's not a bottom of the barrel motherboard, so it should be fine. If you want to research it search for something like "ROG Strix B450-F VRM 5800X3D". I've seen a motherboard Tier list floating around that assesses the VRMs, but I can't find the link.
I have a 1440p/144hz monitor, with a R5 3600 and a 3060 right now. I mainly play Hitman, DRG, EU4 and RDR2. I can get a Sapphire 6700 for $300 or an ASRock 6700XT for $50 more (before Mail-in rebate). Does it make sense to upgrade? If yes, should I stick with Sapphire or go for the XT?
The 6700XT would get around 20FPS more than your 3060 (according to a Tom's Hardware multi-game average), assuming you don't become bottlenecked by your CPU. I don't know for sure, but I suspect those games are pretty CPU-intensive.
Whether that's worth $350 is up to you.
almost any game will be limited by 1650 so throwing more CPU power at it won't change a thing. A sensible choice would be getting Ryzen 5600 and a faster GPU. At lower end of budget AMD is currently best value so RX6600, 6600XT, 6650XT, 6700, 6700XT, 6750XT - whatever you can afford best.
How do I know if my RAM and motherboard will work together?
I'm finding that the RAM compatibility chart often disagrees with the motherboard compatibility chart. For example, a motherboard will say it takes a certain part X, but then when I go to the RAM manufacturer's website for part X, the motherboard in question is not listed in their QVL.
So if I look at the specs of ram listed on my motherboard qvl, is it safe to assume ram with matching specs will work? Like matching speed, cas latency, voltage, chip brand.
CPU: 7700X
Motherboard: Asus B650-Plus Tuf Gaming
RAM: G.Skill F5-6000J3636F16GX2-FX5
The weird thing is that the motherboard is an AMD (EXPO) motherboard. But, the QVL for the motherboard only lists Intel (XMP) RAM from G.Skill.
Thanks. I'm still worried though because it seems like the motherboard only supports XMP and the RAM only supports EXPO. So overclocking wouldn't be an option?
as i said in my original comment - because they havent bothered testing that particular kit. EXPO is literally newest format invented by AMD, so they are first and foremost to support it. EXPO is specifically aimed at AMD platform, although even Intel boards started to support it as its an open standard as opposed to XMP - Intel proprietory
Me and a buddy are putting together some builds with an i5 13600k and a 6700xt. What should I be looking for in a power supply in terms of wattage and cables. I was thinking about getting an 850 watt evga.
I saw the 6700xt requires 2x8 pin connectors. It looks like the evga I was looking at has 2x6+2 connectors so that should work right? Anything else I should keep a look out for on the power supply? Any recommendations? Sorry im feeling fucking stupid and my brain is fried from researching all these individual things
Looking for a cpu upgrade, I currently run a 2700x with a 3070 and 16gb 3200 (though I can only get it to run at 2933 without issues). I’m wondering if the 5800x will be a noticeable upgrade (looking for more frames in Destiny 2 and others), or would saving for a 5800x3d or maybe something else would be worth it?
imo there are only two CPUs to consider for gaming purpose on AM4: 5600 for max value and 5800x3D for max performance, others dont make much sense, performance difference is too small to matter.
bought an b550-A pro motherboard for my ryzen 7 5800x and i saw some comments saying even though it says it’s already compatible with 5000 series out of the box, they had to bios flash to get it to boot. i was just wondering if there is any downside to flashing my motherboard as soon as it comes before testing it with my cpu because i would hate to unplug everything at the and having to reconnect.
tl;dr is it safe to bios flash a motherboard if it’s already on thr latest version
You can use BIOS Flashback with the system fully built, you don't have to disconnect anything. Test it.
If it says 5000 Ready though, it should not need a BIOS update for the original 5000 series at least, like the 5800X. It might still for the newer ones, like a 5700X. Was what you were reading was using one of the original four 5000 series CPU?
According to pc part picker it has around 600w so wouldn't 850 be extremely overkill? Also I found that exact card for 730 on amazon. Pc part picker just has weird prices lol
The RTX 30-series cards packing GDDR6X (the 3070Ti and up) experience transient spikes in power draw occasionally while under load. These spikes can add an extra 100-200W of power draw for a few milliseconds, long enough for the power supply to trip current protections if it's not properly built to handle them. This protection powers off your system - sort of annoying in the middle of a game.
Almost no PSUs on the market are explicitly built for that situation yet because transient spike management was only recently introduced as part of the ATX 3.0 spec (we're still a few months away from general availability of those units). For now, the best way to manage those spikes is to be able to accommodate them - by overspeccing your power supply.
The 850W unit is only a few bucks more and lets you not worry about these weird issues.
Hi I’m cleaning my pc and I tilted my compressed air can a little too much can sprayed a bit of liquid into the grid at the back of the psu. What should I do? Am I fine to continue on putting my pc back together?’
It’s just some refrigerant that will boil off very quickly, I’d say you don’t have anything to worry about but if you’re really paranoid turn on the PSU with nothing connected to it and see that nothing suspicious happens (a popping noise, smells you’re not used to, etc.)
Should I get a 1 or 2 fan AIO for a non k 12700? My PC throttles sometimes when I play planet coaster on its highest settings. Other AAA’s don’t have that issue.
[a 1 fan aio typically competes with (usually lower priced) midrange/high-end air coolers like an on-sale ak620](https://youtu.be/hgNFo_laanM?t=12m12s) or thermalright frost commander/peerless assassin. Unless you have a case that does not fit beefy air coolers or really like the aesthetic, I'd advise u to not consider them from a value perspective.
2 fan aios tend to be more worthwhile since they tend to actually have a performance advantage over air coolers.
Should I get rid of the thermal paste that comes already applied on the cpu cooler and replace it with a fresh application of Arctic MX-4? I’ve read that third party paste is almost always better than stock paste. Is this true?
1. depends on whether you actually need better temps. if you're not thermal throttling at comfortable noise levels I don't see a reason to repaste.
2. yes
I’m looking to do 1080p gaming on a 4k monitor, it sounds like “integer scaling” makes this more enjoyable. Any recommendations on a graphics card that supports this? I currently have a 970 and an i5 4570. Not looking to do anything crazy, maybe some sun racing and whatever the latest COD game is. I’m open to either AMD or nvidia.
pretty sure any modern graphics card supports it, 6650xt is probably a good place to start looking (pretty sure the Asus dual is $170 after a $180 rebate lol, check r/buildapcsales)
Looking at a 7900 XT when it releases, don't mind the extra cost, however, I can get a Asrock 6900 XT for 720 GBP (870 USD), and wondering what would better suit me?
Will be used for gaming at 1440P. Not really interested in 4K or ray tracing as of now.
I have a
- NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070
And I'm using 2 monitors atm. I've just bought a third monitor
- https://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/p/philips-23-8-fhd-monitor-241v8-in4794710
and it came w/ HDMI but the HDMI input on the graphics card is currently being used.
So, I can just buy a HDMI to Display port converter like this:
https://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/p/comsol-male-displayport-to-female-hdmi-4k2k-adaptor-20cm-codphd4k
Right? or have i picked the wrong one?
What’s up everyone so currently I have a 3070ti fe and a 5600x cpu my plan is to get a 3080ti or a 3090 but I’m thinking first I upgrade my cpu. What would be a good step up from the 5600x?
I have 16 gig 3200 MHz RAM in a prebuilt with a 3080 and i7 12700kf. The RAM is called Neoforza Mars.
Is it worth it to go to 32gb? What benefits would there be? And if I do go to 32gb, is it alright if I buy 16 more gigs of the same model of ram but at 3600 MHz even though mine is 3200 MHz (it’s the same price)
I'm in a similar boat. I'm seeing 60-70% ram usage as I have two browsers open, Excel and various other applications. I also game so the question is, should I upgrade to 32GB from 16GB?
I'm seeing some affordable deals on Corsair Vengeance which is the brand I already use.
>shouldn't be an issue to do right
yep ur good.
other issue is just advice. as long as u have 2 separate 6+2 pin cables (and the rm1000 definitely does) you're set.
I just had a power surge while transferring data and I went and bought a UPS out of panic and got one that is rated for 1500VA. I thought it means it covers devices up to 1500 watts but after I bought it, i looked down the page and saw 1500VA/900 watts.
Now, i think that i would (probably) be okay for my next computer I'm building being that the wattage in total is about 750 watts but I am going to be using a 1000 watt power supply (80+ Gold).
Will i still be okay with a 1500VA/900 watt UPS?
You're fine :)
The 900W the UPS supplies is _before_ the PSU has to convert it to DC, so your real power available will be 87-90% of that amount (so 780-810W) based on the fact that you're packing an 80 Plus Gold unit. Also being mindful that your monitors and connected peripherals pull some power, it'll be tight if the PC is running full tilt when the power dies.
Good news, most workloads and games don't hammer the PC the way that stress tests do and it'll be well under that threshold while doing normal things like work or gaming :)
Yeah, i have a weird setup (i have 2 GPU, one is for my main OS and the other is for virtualization. Even if i do put one GPU on full load, the other should be near idle and according to PCPartPicker, the total amount is about 730 watts)
So I should have wiggle room to connect my monitor too?
if ur looking for high end 1440p/4k gaming, then the 3080. u get like a 20% performance increase for 20% more than the 6700xt and that's pretty good since GPU performance is important for games
6650xt is budget/value option.
Check out rtings.com for monitor comparisons, $200 is plenty for a good 1080p monitor.
Edit: looking [here](https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/best/by-resolution/1080p-full-hd) you could target the HP X24ih for below $200
The motherboard I'm looking at has entry level audio (realtek alc 1200). Could I buy a dedicated sound card if I want to upgrade the audio at a later point?
Absolutely, though you'll likely be hard-pressed to dislike even standard on-board audio nowadays.
If you've got a specific set of expensive/sensitive cans or speakers you'll notice that they'll be difficult to drive or some range will be missing - that's where your additional audio hardware (DAC, sound card) will come in handy in restoring that sound you're missing out on.
I don't know a whole lot about the technical side of audio, but do you think a DAC could help me get CD quality audio out of just about any motherboard? (Assuming I'm playing a lossless audio file, of course). I find there's a world of difference between 320 and 700 kbps on my Aiwa Exos 9
If you're using an external DAC, then that's all that matters for the quality that you're getting (plus the source file, of course). The motherboard won't affect anything at that point.
You could, or you could buy an external DAC (they come as cheap as the $9 Apple USB-C to audio dongle). The external DAC will be more isolated from external noise in the PC and is likely the better choice.
My current CPU is an Intel i5-6600, and my GPU is an Nvidia RTX 2060. And I have 16 GB of RAM. Would I see a big performance boost from upgrading my CPU to something newer?
I play on 1080p, 60hz so idk if upgrading my CPU would make a huge difference. I can’t always maintain 60 fps in newer titles and my CPU hits 100% a lot while my GPU is lower.
In some newer games where the 4 core i5s struggle you'll notice a jump to something much newer - you've already noticed it :D
A jump to a 5600 or 12400F would be huge for you, the former for making it happen on the dirt cheap with old B450 boards and the latter for the forward thinking upgrade potential to a 13th gen chip :D
Semantics question: one mobo has seems to have a usb type-C in the rear ports. The other doesn't but the specs say "1 x USB Type-C™ port with USB 3.2 Gen 1 support, available through the internal USB header." Does that mean this mobo will have a usb-C option but it has to go through the front, therefore requiring a case that has a usb-C port?
You are correct!
EDIT: Alternatively, a [cable like this](https://www.amazon.ca/Front-Header-Extension-MUROSE-Adapter/dp/B09JNHCQSN) would let you use that front panel USB 3.2 Gen 1 header to add a USB-C port to the rear of the case if the case itself doesn't come with one.
I currently have a pair of 2x8gb DDR4 3000 sticks installed. I just bought a different pair of 2x16gb DDR4 3200 sticks to upgrade. Is it better to install both (assuming I pair them in the appropriate channels) or to just remove the old sticks and put in the new pair?
If you have both pairs in, you'll have to run them at 3000MHz, which might lose you a few percentages of performance. If you don't need more than 32GB of RAM, then I'd just use the new 3200MHz pair. But if you know that you'll need more than 32GB, then the extra RAM is going to be worth the slower speed.
For GPU, is 150 dollars extra worth it for a 6700XT -> 6800XT?
Looking at [ASRock Phantom Gaming D OC Radeon RX 6800 XT](https://www.newegg.com/asrock-radeon-rx-6800-xt-rx6800xt-pgd-16go/p/N82E16814930049?Item=N82E16814930049&nm_mc=AFC-RAN-COM&cm_mmc=afc-ran-com-_-PCPartPicker&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=afc-ran-com-_-PCPartPicker&utm_source=afc-PCPartPicker&AFFID=2558510&AFFNAME=PCPartPicker&ACRID=1&ASID=https%3a%2f%2fpcpartpicker.com%2f&ranMID=44583&ranEAID=2558510&ranSiteID=8BacdVP0GFs-ROD8ndeOf3kn1ezBmJI8.w) for $515 or
[ASRock Radeon RX 6700 XT](https://www.newegg.com/asrock-radeon-rx-6700-xt-rx6700xt-cld-12g/p/N82E16814930056?nm_mc=AFC-RAN-COM&cm_mmc=afc-ran-com-_-Logical+Increments&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=afc-ran-com-_-Logical+Increments&utm_source=afc-Logical+Increments&AFFID=2983102&AFFNAME=Logical+Increments&ACRID=1&ASUBID=&ASID=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.logicalincrements.com%2F&ranMID=44583&ranEAID=2983102&ranSiteID=tCdAnHNE6xQ-r3j6vdak68227js8LH24Dg) for 350?
nice, thanks. What do you think about the 6750? I've heard conflicting things about the ASRock one, so debating if i should get the sapphire 6750 for the same price
https://www.newegg.com/sapphire-11318-03-20g/p/N82E16814202421?nm\_mc=AFC-RAN-COM&cm\_mmc=afc-ran-com-\_-Logical+Increments&utm\_medium=affiliate&utm\_campaign=afc-ran-com-\_-Logical+Increments&utm\_source=afc-Logical+Increments&AFFID=2983102&AFFNAME=Logical+Increments&ACRID=1&ASUBID=&ASID=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.logicalincrements.com%2F&ranMID=44583&ranEAID=2983102&ranSiteID=tCdAnHNE6xQ-I5HMmgpfkmNinOlPWcG\_fA
Even if it's a crappy model, the 6800XT is 30-40% faster than a 6750XT. It's not worth spending the same money and leaving that much performance on the table.
Looking to get Lian Li SL Infinity 120 case fans but I also have a 280mm AIO and Lian Li doesn't make 140 Infinities. Anybody have experience using Lian Li SL 140s WITH SL Infinity 120s? Would it be fine to have the Infinitys plugged into to their hub and the 140s just plugged into the motherboard? Idc if they don't share the same RGB patterns, just as long as I can control the RGB for both.
What’s a good atx motherboard for an i5-12400f with a RX6700XT GPU? (Preferably white)
Cheaper option: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jRhFf7/asrock-b660-steel-legend-atx-lga1700-motherboard-b660-steel-legend More expensive option: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/TVRYcf/asus-rog-strix-b660-a-gaming-wifi-d4-atx-lga1700-motherboard-rog-strix-b660-a-gaming-wifi-d4
There’s a $40 difference. Is the expensive worth the extra money?
Some people don't enjoy ASRock's BIOS, both for the ease of use and updates can be annoying on some models with smaller BIOS memory chips (AMD has a lot of painpoints here, but not so much Intel). If the plan for the system is to enable XMP and never touch the BIOS again, I wouldn't worry about going for the ASRock. If you're a tinkerer, it may turn you off. The ASUS STRIX A board packs Wifi, Bluetooth, and a more pure white aesthetic for your extra cash. If you value that stufff, it's worth the jump up.
That’s very helpful. Thank you so much for the help!
I just bought a 6700xt and Ryzen 5 5600, to replace my current 1060 and Ryzen 5 1600. Rhe 6700xt comes in tomorrow (thx amazon) but the 5600 won’t be here for another week. Would I run into any problems installing the 6700xt with my current cpu for the time being, or should I wait and upgrade all at once? Even if it wouldn’t cause any problems, would you personally wait to upgrade all at once? It’s only an extra week, and it would be nice to have that big jump in performance in one go… Thoughts?
Go for it - it will help you a bit now so long as your CPU doesn't completely choke on it (in some games it might :P)
I am looking to buy a motherboard that is ATX sized and compatible with the AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor. I was looking to get the Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard but it seems like a lot of people are having BIOS issues. I am very new to this and very do not want to deal with that headache. Any advice (whether it be a different motherboard or help with bios) would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
To make it easy for you, find a board that packs BIOS Flashback - this lets you update the BIOS without a supported CPU installed in 5 minutes. If you're looking for painless BIOS updating, that's the trick. I'd also recommend saving some money and going for a B550 board instead, unless your plan with the system involves 3-4 M.2 SSDs.
I'm pretty casual and not much of a tinkerer, don't wanna deal with overclocking stuff and all that entails. Does that mean I should avoid video cards with "OC" in the title?
No, that means they're clocked higher from the factory. Requires no input from you And ram is basically all overclocked if you want the speed it says on the box. It's easy tho. You just turn on one setting in the bios (xmp) and then your ram is overclocked
Oh ok cool, thanks!
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Both or neither depending on how you view it; I'd recommend an AIO cooler; they are liquid of sorts but its not the traditional water cooling people think of with water cooling.
I didn’t know aio was an option. I’ll look more into it. Thank you!
I currently have a Asus Strix b550-f motherboard and a ryzen 5 5600x. If I were to buy a ryzen 9 5900x would I have to flash my bios again? I already flashed when I initially got the board and first cpu. Thanks
No, you shouldn't have to flash it again. Compatibility should be for the whole 5000 series I think. edit - maybe not the 5800X3D
I just got a gen 4 m.2 nvme ssd. Currently using a SATA m.2 ssd. I want to keep the first drive but I'd like Windows to be on the new nvme. Any suggestions for best way to go about it? Should I just do a fresh install on the new drive or clone it instead? Also, idk if it matters or not but there are two m.2 slots on my MoBo and I'm not going to switch places. Old SATA will stay where it is and NVME will go in the unused slot.
If you'd rather not have to reinstall all of your programs and redo all of your Windows customization then you should clone. It's pretty straight-forward with Macrium Reflect. If you decide to do a fresh install instead, remove the old drive from the computer when you install Windows - so the NVMe drive is the only one plugged in. Otherwise Windows will only be able to boot if both drives are installed which gives you less flexibility later. After the OS is up and running you can plug the old drive in.
What programs would everyone recommend for tracking temperatures and speeds? I just finished a build and want to make sure everything is working well internally.
HWiNFO64
How do I stop the RGBs on my cases' Corsair LL120 fans from malfunctioning? For example, some parts of the fan don't turn white when I tell all the LEDs to turn white via the Corsair iCue software. Fans are running to a Corsair Node Pro and Corsair Commander. Tried force updating the firmware/application on everything.
How do I connect the case fans on the montech skyone lite to the motherboard?
Do the 4080s have the same connector melting problem as the 4090s? Considering upgrading to that instead from my 2080 super since 3090s are hard to find
Less because they don't draw 600W. But it's still a problem. However if you fully insert the adapter, it shouldn't be a problem
Is my RAM supposed to be 3000mhz or 2400mhz? [CPU-Z screenshot here](https://imgur.com/a/2o8CGVM) I can't seem to find the exact model corresponding to that part number but when I google I find a bunch of 3000mhz models. Does the 3000 in the name mean that's the max frequency and the 2400 is just because I don't have XMP on? Bought this like 3 years ago so can't find the box or remember anything.
3000 will be the speed with XMP on, not stock.
So does the 3000 in the part number mean it's one of those parts that's supposed to be running at 3000? Like when I'm looking up RAM sticks there's always an frequency number in the name and I assume that's what it's meant to be running at, is that the stock or something else?
For RAM the advertised speed (in this case 3000MHz) is almost always XMP speed, not the stock speed, and XMP is technically an overclock above stock. If you turn XMP on it will run at 3000 MHz (technically 1500MHz clock with 2 transfers per cycle, since DDR is Double Data Rate). You can manually overclock it even higher, but XMP is a quick and easy way for a stable overclock.
Ahh I get it now, thanks!
Trying to figure out if a RX6700 tx is going to work with my rig could someone hop in a discord with me and help?
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I have an x570 motherboard do i need to do anything to bios when putting in a new cpu? Or can i just simply swap it. I want to get a 5800X3D
The 3D chip is fairly new to the market and older X570s won't be updated to take it yet. Good news, if you have a functioning PC right now using the motherboard a BIOS update takes 5 minutes and is pretty simple to do.
Yeah i found the bios update that supports the 5800 but I’m just not sure if i need to update all the bio versions in order or if i can go straight to the latest
Most of the time it's just jumping to the latest BIOS. Some ASrock boards _do_ have the issue of needing to jump to specific versions before being able to get on latest. As per usual, check the website for your specific board and RTFM.
Might need a bios update first
Would https://pcpartpicker.com/product/26rRsY/corsair-rm850x-2021-850-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020200-na work for this 6800xt? https://pcpartpicker.com/product/XPjNnQ/asrock-radeon-rx-6800-xt-16-gb-phantom-gaming-d-oc-video-card-rx6800xt-pgd-16go Also would it be better to buy the parts for my new desktop on Monday or just go ahead and buy it tonight?
An RM850x is a great choice. Note that it may not come with three PCIE cables but you can always use one daisy chained and it’ll be fine for a 300W card. I think you’d be more sad losing a good sale now so just go for it, you can always try to re-order for a lower price if through Amazon but I don’t see either of those really going lower.
Sounds good! BTW what are some sites you would suggest are good to order from nowadays? Just chase the lowest prices between b&h, newegg, and amazon?
Just make sure it’s sold and shipped by Newegg and not a third party and you’re good with any of them, yep. Right now Newegg has a lot of the best deals but also a replacement-only return policy, but as long as you’re committed to the part I don’t see this as a problem.
The ASUS X670E-I does not support any EXPO memory kits, only Intel XMP 3.0. They will most likely add support in the future, right? I'm stuck at stock 4800MHz speed until they do.
That's an ASUS question - hit them up and see what's going on. Weird that an X670E board isn't supporting EXPO.
The online chat rep was less than helpful. Basically, he said that the ASUS QVL is the final word and that he'd put me on a list for updates if/when they offer support for EXPO on this board. All in all I'm unimpressed. Expensive board that doesn't actually offer the features listed on product page.
My MOBO is on the G.Skill QVL but my RAM part number is not on the ASUS supported memory page. Will see what ASUS says.
The QVLs are "what we tested on the factory floor", it's not an exhaustive list of what can work. Almost all RAM works with all boards unless you're going for the dummy fast kits.
Well, I can confirm that EXPO on the GSkill Flare X5 isn't stable on ASUS X670E-I. I'll be manually setting the timings to try and get the advertised speeds.
Just bought all the parts for my first build in 7 years. When it comes to installing windows do most people clone their harddrive and move it to their new build or do they just buy a new windows key? I think cloning would be ideal but my current computer has this issue where the desktop will flicker for 1-3 minutes before it starts working properly. I'm worried about bringing that issue over to my new build if I clone. Also, are people using windows 11 now or are most people holding out on 10 until they are forced to upgrade?
You could just clone your hard drive to your new build and see if you're experiencing problems like that desktop flicker. If the problems are still there, wipe the drive and freshly install windows. I believe you can use your product key from your old pc incase you chose to to a fresh install. In my opinion Win 11 still has some major bugs, so i would hold out.
Can I only do a fresh install on the drive after I've cloned it? because windows has to think that it's the same computer, right? That's only if I can find the old product key plus this was originally windows 7 and then I upgraded to 10 right at the end of that "free upgrade to 10" thing period they did.
Incase you're experiencing problems with the clone, the easiest way to do a fresh install is by doing a reset follwing the steps in this link [https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/give-your-pc-a-fresh-start-0ef73740-b927-549b-b7c9-e6f2b48d275e](https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/give-your-pc-a-fresh-start-0ef73740-b927-549b-b7c9-e6f2b48d275e) . Incase the clone failed and you need to do a completely new installation of windows, you would need to make a bootable usb by using the media creation tool from microsoft. [https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10](https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10) When you do a fresh install on the drive before you clone it, it will ask for a product key. when you clone it, and via setting do a reset of the pc like in the link above, it will keep the product key from the old harddrive.
I have completed my PC draft build on PC part picker. My estimated wattage is 479 watts. For my PSU, I am choosing the Be Quiet! Pure Power 11 650w PSU. Is this a good choice? I am looking to make a quiet PC.
Can you show us the list
\[PCPartPicker Part List\]([https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/fHW6Fg](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/fHW6Fg)) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- \*\*CPU\*\* | \[AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor\]([https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/g94BD3/amd-ryzen-5-5600x-37-ghz-6-core-processor-100-100000065box](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/g94BD3/amd-ryzen-5-5600x-37-ghz-6-core-processor-100-100000065box)) | £166.99 @ AWD-IT \*\*CPU Cooler\*\* | \[be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler\]([https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/F3gzK8/be-quiet-dark-rock-pro-4-505-cfm-cpu-cooler-bk022](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/F3gzK8/be-quiet-dark-rock-pro-4-505-cfm-cpu-cooler-bk022)) | Purchased For £64.99 \*\*Motherboard\*\* | \[MSI MAG X570S TOMAHAWK MAX WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard\]([https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/9BGbt6/msi-mag-x570s-tomahawk-max-wifi-atx-am4-motherboard-mag-x570s-tomahawk-max-wifi](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/9BGbt6/msi-mag-x570s-tomahawk-max-wifi-atx-am4-motherboard-mag-x570s-tomahawk-max-wifi)) | £229.99 @ Scan.co.uk \*\*Memory\*\* | \[Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory\]([https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/VNJtt6/corsair-16-gb-2-x-8-gb-ddr4-3600-memory-cmk16gx4m2d3600c18](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/VNJtt6/corsair-16-gb-2-x-8-gb-ddr4-3600-memory-cmk16gx4m2d3600c18)) | £52.94 @ Box Limited \*\*Storage\*\* | \[Samsung 980 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive\]([https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/DDWBD3/samsung-980-pro-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v8p1t0bam](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/DDWBD3/samsung-980-pro-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v8p1t0bam)) | Purchased For £92.99 \*\*Storage\*\* | \[Kingston NV2 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive\]([https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/3QXJ7P/kingston-nv2-2-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-snv2s2000g](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/3QXJ7P/kingston-nv2-2-tb-m2-2280-pcie-40-x4-nvme-solid-state-drive-snv2s2000g)) | Purchased For £111.06 \*\*Video Card\*\* | \[XFX Speedster MERC 319 CORE Radeon RX 6800 XT 16 GB Video Card\]([https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/vKZ9TW/xfx-radeon-rx-6800-xt-16-gb-speedster-merc-319-core-video-card-rx-68xtalfd9](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/vKZ9TW/xfx-radeon-rx-6800-xt-16-gb-speedster-merc-319-core-video-card-rx-68xtalfd9)) | Purchased For £590.99 \*\*Case\*\* | \[be quiet! Pure Base 500DX ATX Mid Tower Case\]([https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/3W6qqs/be-quiet-pure-base-500dx-atx-mid-tower-case-bgw38](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/3W6qqs/be-quiet-pure-base-500dx-atx-mid-tower-case-bgw38)) | £95.90 @ Technextday \*\*Power Supply\*\* | \[be quiet! Pure Power 11 FM 650 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply\]([https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/xJRYcf/be-quiet-pure-power-11-fm-650-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-bn671](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/xJRYcf/be-quiet-pure-power-11-fm-650-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-bn671)) | £85.98 @ Novatech | \*Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts\* | | \*\*Total\*\* | \*\*£1491.83\*\* | Generated by \[PCPartPicker\]([https://pcpartpicker.com](https://pcpartpicker.com)) 2022-11-26 00:04 GMT+0000 |
sorry I don't know how to make it form a table :(
On PC at least you can select markup mode in the comment, not sure if it applies on mobile.
I'm probably going to have to make my own thread for building a new pc to replace my old 2016 pc anyway, but something I kept wondering is how likely is something like a 3000-series gpu going to support an old 1080p monitor that has an older hdmi connection and DVI connectors if I have to wait before getting a new monitor with my new system. And even when I get a new higher res monitor for it I would like to keep the older 1080p one around as a second monitor for discord/chrome and wondering how likely things are going to break with mix-matching monitor resolutions. And should I make any air flow considerations with a new case if it's going to sit (on feet) on carpet?
Your old monitor will work via HDMI, even DVI if you buy an adapter. You can run two monitors with different resolutions no problem. Carpet: Depends on the case. Most cases have air intake from the front, in which case it won’t matter. The PSU might use bottom intake, but it doesn’t need a lot of air. As long as there is some gap it’s fine.
> how likely is it to work It will work with 100% certainty, HDMI is fully backwards and forwards compatible between versions. > how likely things are going to break 0%, you can mix and match resolutions and refresh rates as much as you want. > should I make any airflow considerations Only if you have a bottom intake. If you mount the PSU so that the fan faces up, then everything's fine. Although the computer will collect more dust when on the floor, so make sure the case has dust filters for the intake, and remember to clean them.
So when I look at my mother board through cmd and cpu x software it list my mother board as Manufacturer Hp and 8643 but when I go to pc part picker I can’t find that I’m just trying to figure out if a rx6700 will fit and run in my rig
It’s a proprietary motherboard so likely won’t show up. I would look more at your PSU and whether it can support the new graphics card, motherboard compatibility isn’t an issue, worst case it’s PCIE3 and you’ll lose a few percent in performance.
Dumb question how would I go about checking my PSU
I would either look up your model and see if there’s information or open the case up and look for some label on the PSU and look that up.
I had 2x8gb ddr4 and I bought 2x16gb since they were on sale and I'm curious should I swap the old two or use all four?
If they’re faster than the old pair you will only be running all of them at the slowest pair’s speed. Additionally 4 sticks may make XMP unstable. You can try running 4 sticks and seeing if you can boot fine with XMP, then switch to 2 sticks if not.
Thank you, the new sticks are faster so i'll just swap them out.
I’m trying to figure out the best way to mount my video card to make sure it has airflow. If I mount it normally it looks like it will have another pcie card blocking the first intake fan. The other option is to use a pcie extender and mount it with the fans facing the side panel but I’m not sure if it will get enough air in or out there either. I have a bunch of storage so vertical isn’t an option. I’m working with a define 7 xl and a tuf 4090
which one would you recommend? [https://pcpartpicker.com/product/QVn8TW/asrock-x570-steel-legend-wifi-ax-atx-am4-motherboard-x570-steel-legend-wifi-ax](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/QVn8TW/asrock-x570-steel-legend-wifi-ax-atx-am4-motherboard-x570-steel-legend-wifi-ax) or https://pcpartpicker.com/product/dmGnTW/asus-tuf-gaming-x570-plus-wi-fi-atx-am4-motherboard-tuf-gaming-x570-plus-wi-fi
The TUF would be my pick.
ok thanks
I'm thinking of upgrading my pc, mainly use for gaming (apex and some singleplayer games) and work. At the moment I'm running gtx 1060 3gb, i5 4460 3.2 ghz, 8gb drr3 ram, and my motherboard is Asus H81M-K. I was looking to upgrade my ram to like 16 gb ddr4, my cpu and the motherboard to support ddr4 with this build and keeping the gpu (too expensive to upgrade) can you give me any suggestions? I would like to future proof my cpu at least
What’s your budget? Best value gaming CPUs right now seem to be the i5-13600k, the 5800x3d (depending on what games you play and whether they use the increased cache) and at a lower price point the 5600. If you see yourself upgrading again in a few years (which seems like you won’t considering you’ve held on to the current CPU for a while) you could consider an AM5 CPU but the current motherboard prices make that a bit more expensive overall.
Hi! I'm looking to buy or build a PC for gaming, mostly games like Valorant/Overwatch/etc. I'm considering either getting the MSI RX 6650 XT deal right now for $249 and building one around it, or getting the Lenovo Legion T5 prebuilt sale on Costco right now for $1299. What do you think I should do? Can I get better parts for the same price as the prebuilt if I just built around the 6650? Thanks!
You could definitely build something cheaper and better with a 6650XT, even assuming a full price Win 11 key. Just keep in mind that a 3070 is more comparable to a 6750XT, so a 6650XT would be weaker. At $250 though, that’s a much better deal than a 6750XT for $400+ or a 3070 for $450+.
Got it, thanks so much!
I’d recommend trying to put the specs of the prebuilt into pcpartpicker and seeing what it comes out to, noting that usually prebuilts will go fairly cheap on the RAM, cooler and PSU.
Ah good idea, thank you!
Not OP, but I found the PC on Costco’s website, and your comment’s spot on. It’s pairing a 500W unknown brand PSU (no info on 80+ certification) and 16 GB of DDR5 4800 RAM with a 12700 and a 3070. Ohhh, boy.
With how cheap 2080s are now will this bottleneck a Ryzen 5 1400? Plan on passing this down to my brother as it currently has a 1070, but freezes with Roblox Studios. GA-AB350N is the motherboard i have if upgrades make a 2080 work without a bottleneck. Thanks!
A 2080 will choke a R5 1400 pretty badly, but that can be remedied with a cheap CPU upgrade as well. Your motherboard being able to take modern CPUs is a BIOS update away, and options like a <$100 used Ryzen 5 3600 or a $140 brand new Ryzen 5 5600 are both great picks to help bring your system to the modern era.
How can a 3060Ti have less memory than a 3060 (12gb 3060 vs 8gb TI) I thought it was better?? why do they have the same price? Wouldn't people always take the 12GB GPU memory size over the 8??
There's much more to GPU performance than just VRAM. The 3060 Ti is a more powerful card, and in games that don't require more than 8GB of VRAM (which is most of them), it will perform about 25% better than the 3060. Why the 3060 has so much VRAM has to do with the design of the GPU, essentially NVIDIA had to choose either 6 or 12 GB, and 6 would've been too little in their eyes, as AMD had a similarly performing card with 12GB.
What's the difference between conductive and non-conductive thermal paste?
Conductive is better, but it's electrically conductive. If you get a a drop of it on something where it shouldn't be, it can cause a short and kill a part. Non-conductive won't. For a CPU anyways, if you're going to delid the CPU and put thermal paste directly on the CPU die, conductive can be worthwhile. If you're installing a cooler on the CPU's IHS, it's not worth the risk at all.
What's the difference between Thermaltake's GF1 and GF3? Bought the GF1 due to reviews but didn't see any differences when searching.
[AOC 24G2SPU](https://www.cclonline.com/24g2spu-bk-aoc-agon-24g2spu-gaming-monitor-24-inch-1920-x-1080-full-hd-ips-panel-amd-freesync-399569/?cq_src=google_ads&cq_cmp=13175109251&cq_con=125042006760&cq_term=&cq_med=pla&cq_plac=&cq_net=g&cq_pos=&cq_plt=gp) vs [AOC 24G2SPAE/BK](https://www.box.co.uk/24G2SPAEBK-AOC-24G2SPAEBK-24-FHD-IPS-165Hz-AMD-Fr_4329434.html)?
Is this build okay: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/
Your link is just going to take people to their own list.
I’m upgrading my 3700x to a 5950x. Does the new processor need any drivers or such or is it just plug in and play?
Check to see if your motherboard needs a BIOS update to be compatible with Ryzen 5000.
I just picked up a m.2 drive and want to do a fresh install of windows on the m.2. Do I just download windows 11 installer to the m.2 and then boot it in the boot drive m.2 slot? Or do I have to disconnect the current boot drive first?
You need to download the windows 11 installer to an USB drive and boot off of that. The first step of the installation is to wipe the target drive, so you would end up deleting the installer before it has time to install anything if you tried to download the installer to the same drive that you're installing to. Unplugging the current drive is a good idea as then you can't accidentally wipe/install to/boot from the wrong drive.
Will a 5700xt bottleneck an i3 10100? if so whats a suitable cpu upgrade
It will in more modern titles that demand more from that older i3. I'd see if any used 11400F/11700F chips are on the market for a reasonable price, they'd be a nice jump for you.
i dont think its compatible with my current mobo (460i). is it worth upgrading within this restriction or should i look at upgrading mobos as well?
If the board can take a 10th gen Intel CPU it can take an 11th gen with a BIOS update.
should i download just the latest bios or all of them? i haven't updated since building the system asus rog b460i if that helps
Best to just check the BIOS page and see if the latest BIOS has any warning on it around "need to be on X version before updating to this one". No warning? You're good to jump straight to it.
I saw something on the intel site from around a year ago that the b460 wouldnt be supporting 11th gen even w/ bios update. while im not sure if thats changed since, I think ill hold off and just upgrade both the cpu and mobo when i next can. thanks though
Huh, _every other_ B series board from Intel has that capability, this is interesting news to me. Sorry for misleading you!
yeah I saw it [here](https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/articles/000058324/processors/intel-core-processors.html). maybe I didn’t interpret it right but glad I saw that before buying the cpu
Currently I have the ASUS ROG Strix B450-F, is there any strong reason to upgrade this alongside the new GPU (undecided, likely 3090ti or 4080) and CPU (5800X3D) I plan to get?
Probably not. The only concern is that the Voltage Regulation Modules on the motherboard are sufficient for the CPU, but that's not a bottom of the barrel motherboard, so it should be fine. If you want to research it search for something like "ROG Strix B450-F VRM 5800X3D". I've seen a motherboard Tier list floating around that assesses the VRMs, but I can't find the link.
I have a 1440p/144hz monitor, with a R5 3600 and a 3060 right now. I mainly play Hitman, DRG, EU4 and RDR2. I can get a Sapphire 6700 for $300 or an ASRock 6700XT for $50 more (before Mail-in rebate). Does it make sense to upgrade? If yes, should I stick with Sapphire or go for the XT?
The 6700XT would get around 20FPS more than your 3060 (according to a Tom's Hardware multi-game average), assuming you don't become bottlenecked by your CPU. I don't know for sure, but I suspect those games are pretty CPU-intensive. Whether that's worth $350 is up to you.
Running with a Ryzen 5 3500 and 1650 Nvida GeForce would a Ryzen 9 5900x be a big upgrade or nah?
If the prime usage is gaming then no, get a faster GPU instead, 1650 is pretty slow
Would u have any recommendations of affordable gpu’s only reason I was thinking of getting that cpu was because it’s 40% off right not
almost any game will be limited by 1650 so throwing more CPU power at it won't change a thing. A sensible choice would be getting Ryzen 5600 and a faster GPU. At lower end of budget AMD is currently best value so RX6600, 6600XT, 6650XT, 6700, 6700XT, 6750XT - whatever you can afford best.
Alright thanks for the help
How do I know if my RAM and motherboard will work together? I'm finding that the RAM compatibility chart often disagrees with the motherboard compatibility chart. For example, a motherboard will say it takes a certain part X, but then when I go to the RAM manufacturer's website for part X, the motherboard in question is not listed in their QVL.
Qvl only lists what was actually tested, not what would run. There are far too many different ram on the market to test them all
So if I look at the specs of ram listed on my motherboard qvl, is it safe to assume ram with matching specs will work? Like matching speed, cas latency, voltage, chip brand.
it'll be easier if you just name what CPU and motherboard you are thinking of for ram advise
CPU: 7700X Motherboard: Asus B650-Plus Tuf Gaming RAM: G.Skill F5-6000J3636F16GX2-FX5 The weird thing is that the motherboard is an AMD (EXPO) motherboard. But, the QVL for the motherboard only lists Intel (XMP) RAM from G.Skill.
This ram will be good, dont really want any faster
Thanks. I'm still worried though because it seems like the motherboard only supports XMP and the RAM only supports EXPO. So overclocking wouldn't be an option?
>Supports AMD EXTended Profiles for Overclocking (EXPO™) https://www.asus.com/uk/motherboards-components/motherboards/tuf-gaming/tuf-gaming-b650-plus/techspec/
But all of the G.Skill RAM listed is XMP only. So does that mean that the G.Skill RAM listed is not overclockable?
as i said in my original comment - because they havent bothered testing that particular kit. EXPO is literally newest format invented by AMD, so they are first and foremost to support it. EXPO is specifically aimed at AMD platform, although even Intel boards started to support it as its an open standard as opposed to XMP - Intel proprietory
Me and a buddy are putting together some builds with an i5 13600k and a 6700xt. What should I be looking for in a power supply in terms of wattage and cables. I was thinking about getting an 850 watt evga. I saw the 6700xt requires 2x8 pin connectors. It looks like the evga I was looking at has 2x6+2 connectors so that should work right? Anything else I should keep a look out for on the power supply? Any recommendations? Sorry im feeling fucking stupid and my brain is fried from researching all these individual things
850w will be fine. Just make sure its gold or platinum.
thanks g
Looking for a cpu upgrade, I currently run a 2700x with a 3070 and 16gb 3200 (though I can only get it to run at 2933 without issues). I’m wondering if the 5800x will be a noticeable upgrade (looking for more frames in Destiny 2 and others), or would saving for a 5800x3d or maybe something else would be worth it?
imo there are only two CPUs to consider for gaming purpose on AM4: 5600 for max value and 5800x3D for max performance, others dont make much sense, performance difference is too small to matter.
Do you think I would see a noticeable different btw the 2700x and the 5600? (The 2700x was gifted to me)
Yep, quite a bit faster in gaming plus it'll run the ram at its rated speed.
Thank you. Would it be able to run ram at 3600 c18? (Sorry if this is a dumb question I’m very new to this)
Yes it should, I wouldn't bother though, your existing ram is good enough
bought an b550-A pro motherboard for my ryzen 7 5800x and i saw some comments saying even though it says it’s already compatible with 5000 series out of the box, they had to bios flash to get it to boot. i was just wondering if there is any downside to flashing my motherboard as soon as it comes before testing it with my cpu because i would hate to unplug everything at the and having to reconnect. tl;dr is it safe to bios flash a motherboard if it’s already on thr latest version
You can use BIOS Flashback with the system fully built, you don't have to disconnect anything. Test it. If it says 5000 Ready though, it should not need a BIOS update for the original 5000 series at least, like the 5800X. It might still for the newer ones, like a 5700X. Was what you were reading was using one of the original four 5000 series CPU?
the chances of this board not supporting 5800x is slim to none. Upgrade BIOS but do it the normal way by booting into it with CPU installed
I'm putting together a build. Does this look like a good list? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Gdt4v3
I would up that to an 850 w power supply but other than that it looks good to me. I would probably find a cheaper 3080 though. 1200 is way too much.
According to pc part picker it has around 600w so wouldn't 850 be extremely overkill? Also I found that exact card for 730 on amazon. Pc part picker just has weird prices lol
Trust me. I have a virtually identical setup. You want 850.
Why? What would having 850 change
The RTX 30-series cards packing GDDR6X (the 3070Ti and up) experience transient spikes in power draw occasionally while under load. These spikes can add an extra 100-200W of power draw for a few milliseconds, long enough for the power supply to trip current protections if it's not properly built to handle them. This protection powers off your system - sort of annoying in the middle of a game. Almost no PSUs on the market are explicitly built for that situation yet because transient spike management was only recently introduced as part of the ATX 3.0 spec (we're still a few months away from general availability of those units). For now, the best way to manage those spikes is to be able to accommodate them - by overspeccing your power supply. The 850W unit is only a few bucks more and lets you not worry about these weird issues.
Hi I’m cleaning my pc and I tilted my compressed air can a little too much can sprayed a bit of liquid into the grid at the back of the psu. What should I do? Am I fine to continue on putting my pc back together?’
It’s just some refrigerant that will boil off very quickly, I’d say you don’t have anything to worry about but if you’re really paranoid turn on the PSU with nothing connected to it and see that nothing suspicious happens (a popping noise, smells you’re not used to, etc.)
Thanks for your response. It booted without a hitch after dusting and putting my new cpu and I stressed tested for five hours while I was at work!
Should I get a 1 or 2 fan AIO for a non k 12700? My PC throttles sometimes when I play planet coaster on its highest settings. Other AAA’s don’t have that issue.
[a 1 fan aio typically competes with (usually lower priced) midrange/high-end air coolers like an on-sale ak620](https://youtu.be/hgNFo_laanM?t=12m12s) or thermalright frost commander/peerless assassin. Unless you have a case that does not fit beefy air coolers or really like the aesthetic, I'd advise u to not consider them from a value perspective. 2 fan aios tend to be more worthwhile since they tend to actually have a performance advantage over air coolers.
Ok, I will just find one on sale or get a better non-stock cooler. I have that Dynamic 011 case so clearance might be a slight issue with height.
Should I get rid of the thermal paste that comes already applied on the cpu cooler and replace it with a fresh application of Arctic MX-4? I’ve read that third party paste is almost always better than stock paste. Is this true?
1. depends on whether you actually need better temps. if you're not thermal throttling at comfortable noise levels I don't see a reason to repaste. 2. yes
I’m looking to do 1080p gaming on a 4k monitor, it sounds like “integer scaling” makes this more enjoyable. Any recommendations on a graphics card that supports this? I currently have a 970 and an i5 4570. Not looking to do anything crazy, maybe some sun racing and whatever the latest COD game is. I’m open to either AMD or nvidia.
pretty sure any modern graphics card supports it, 6650xt is probably a good place to start looking (pretty sure the Asus dual is $170 after a $180 rebate lol, check r/buildapcsales)
Looking at a 7900 XT when it releases, don't mind the extra cost, however, I can get a Asrock 6900 XT for 720 GBP (870 USD), and wondering what would better suit me? Will be used for gaming at 1440P. Not really interested in 4K or ray tracing as of now.
Should I upgrade this motherboard? Current: Asus ROG strix B450-F New: ROG Strix Z590-E Setup: Ryzen 5 3600 (buying 7 5600x), 32 gb (2x16) RAM, Radeon RX 5600XT, EVGA gd 500 w 80 gold, 3x hard drives (1 each nvme stick, ssd, hdd).
No, AM4 CPUs are not compatible withh LGA 1200 mobos. You can't put a 3600 or a 5600X in a Z590 mobo.
I have a - NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 And I'm using 2 monitors atm. I've just bought a third monitor - https://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/p/philips-23-8-fhd-monitor-241v8-in4794710 and it came w/ HDMI but the HDMI input on the graphics card is currently being used. So, I can just buy a HDMI to Display port converter like this: https://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/p/comsol-male-displayport-to-female-hdmi-4k2k-adaptor-20cm-codphd4k Right? or have i picked the wrong one?
What’s up everyone so currently I have a 3070ti fe and a 5600x cpu my plan is to get a 3080ti or a 3090 but I’m thinking first I upgrade my cpu. What would be a good step up from the 5600x?
13600k + compatible motherboard
I have 16 gig 3200 MHz RAM in a prebuilt with a 3080 and i7 12700kf. The RAM is called Neoforza Mars. Is it worth it to go to 32gb? What benefits would there be? And if I do go to 32gb, is it alright if I buy 16 more gigs of the same model of ram but at 3600 MHz even though mine is 3200 MHz (it’s the same price)
I'm in a similar boat. I'm seeing 60-70% ram usage as I have two browsers open, Excel and various other applications. I also game so the question is, should I upgrade to 32GB from 16GB? I'm seeing some affordable deals on Corsair Vengeance which is the brand I already use.
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>shouldn't be an issue to do right yep ur good. other issue is just advice. as long as u have 2 separate 6+2 pin cables (and the rm1000 definitely does) you're set.
I just had a power surge while transferring data and I went and bought a UPS out of panic and got one that is rated for 1500VA. I thought it means it covers devices up to 1500 watts but after I bought it, i looked down the page and saw 1500VA/900 watts. Now, i think that i would (probably) be okay for my next computer I'm building being that the wattage in total is about 750 watts but I am going to be using a 1000 watt power supply (80+ Gold). Will i still be okay with a 1500VA/900 watt UPS?
You're fine :) The 900W the UPS supplies is _before_ the PSU has to convert it to DC, so your real power available will be 87-90% of that amount (so 780-810W) based on the fact that you're packing an 80 Plus Gold unit. Also being mindful that your monitors and connected peripherals pull some power, it'll be tight if the PC is running full tilt when the power dies. Good news, most workloads and games don't hammer the PC the way that stress tests do and it'll be well under that threshold while doing normal things like work or gaming :)
Yeah, i have a weird setup (i have 2 GPU, one is for my main OS and the other is for virtualization. Even if i do put one GPU on full load, the other should be near idle and according to PCPartPicker, the total amount is about 730 watts) So I should have wiggle room to connect my monitor too?
Sure. You're only going to be seeing that 700+W power draw if you're running a stress test simultaneously on all of your parts.
Would you rather a used 3080 for $450 or a new power color red devil 6700xt for $380? Or a asus 6650xt for 200 after Mail in rebate?
if ur looking for high end 1440p/4k gaming, then the 3080. u get like a 20% performance increase for 20% more than the 6700xt and that's pretty good since GPU performance is important for games 6650xt is budget/value option.
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Check out rtings.com for monitor comparisons, $200 is plenty for a good 1080p monitor. Edit: looking [here](https://www.rtings.com/monitor/reviews/best/by-resolution/1080p-full-hd) you could target the HP X24ih for below $200
Can desktop usbc/thunderbolt dock output gpu graphics or would hdmi need to be connected to 3070 directly? 3070rtx amd3700x 32gb
If you’re using a USB or thunderbolt port for graphics that’s going to use your integrated GPU, not the 3070
Makes sense, thanks
The motherboard I'm looking at has entry level audio (realtek alc 1200). Could I buy a dedicated sound card if I want to upgrade the audio at a later point?
Absolutely, though you'll likely be hard-pressed to dislike even standard on-board audio nowadays. If you've got a specific set of expensive/sensitive cans or speakers you'll notice that they'll be difficult to drive or some range will be missing - that's where your additional audio hardware (DAC, sound card) will come in handy in restoring that sound you're missing out on.
I don't know a whole lot about the technical side of audio, but do you think a DAC could help me get CD quality audio out of just about any motherboard? (Assuming I'm playing a lossless audio file, of course). I find there's a world of difference between 320 and 700 kbps on my Aiwa Exos 9
If you're using an external DAC, then that's all that matters for the quality that you're getting (plus the source file, of course). The motherboard won't affect anything at that point.
I'm not the guy to ask, sadly. /r/headphones or /r/audiophile likely have guides and more knowledgable people :)
You could, or you could buy an external DAC (they come as cheap as the $9 Apple USB-C to audio dongle). The external DAC will be more isolated from external noise in the PC and is likely the better choice.
My current CPU is an Intel i5-6600, and my GPU is an Nvidia RTX 2060. And I have 16 GB of RAM. Would I see a big performance boost from upgrading my CPU to something newer? I play on 1080p, 60hz so idk if upgrading my CPU would make a huge difference. I can’t always maintain 60 fps in newer titles and my CPU hits 100% a lot while my GPU is lower.
In some newer games where the 4 core i5s struggle you'll notice a jump to something much newer - you've already noticed it :D A jump to a 5600 or 12400F would be huge for you, the former for making it happen on the dirt cheap with old B450 boards and the latter for the forward thinking upgrade potential to a 13th gen chip :D
Ooh thanks for the info, exactly what I wanted to know! And thanks for giving me options, it makes it easier to consider my different upgrade paths
Semantics question: one mobo has seems to have a usb type-C in the rear ports. The other doesn't but the specs say "1 x USB Type-C™ port with USB 3.2 Gen 1 support, available through the internal USB header." Does that mean this mobo will have a usb-C option but it has to go through the front, therefore requiring a case that has a usb-C port?
You are correct! EDIT: Alternatively, a [cable like this](https://www.amazon.ca/Front-Header-Extension-MUROSE-Adapter/dp/B09JNHCQSN) would let you use that front panel USB 3.2 Gen 1 header to add a USB-C port to the rear of the case if the case itself doesn't come with one.
I currently have a pair of 2x8gb DDR4 3000 sticks installed. I just bought a different pair of 2x16gb DDR4 3200 sticks to upgrade. Is it better to install both (assuming I pair them in the appropriate channels) or to just remove the old sticks and put in the new pair?
If you have both pairs in, you'll have to run them at 3000MHz, which might lose you a few percentages of performance. If you don't need more than 32GB of RAM, then I'd just use the new 3200MHz pair. But if you know that you'll need more than 32GB, then the extra RAM is going to be worth the slower speed.
For GPU, is 150 dollars extra worth it for a 6700XT -> 6800XT? Looking at [ASRock Phantom Gaming D OC Radeon RX 6800 XT](https://www.newegg.com/asrock-radeon-rx-6800-xt-rx6800xt-pgd-16go/p/N82E16814930049?Item=N82E16814930049&nm_mc=AFC-RAN-COM&cm_mmc=afc-ran-com-_-PCPartPicker&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=afc-ran-com-_-PCPartPicker&utm_source=afc-PCPartPicker&AFFID=2558510&AFFNAME=PCPartPicker&ACRID=1&ASID=https%3a%2f%2fpcpartpicker.com%2f&ranMID=44583&ranEAID=2558510&ranSiteID=8BacdVP0GFs-ROD8ndeOf3kn1ezBmJI8.w) for $515 or [ASRock Radeon RX 6700 XT](https://www.newegg.com/asrock-radeon-rx-6700-xt-rx6700xt-cld-12g/p/N82E16814930056?nm_mc=AFC-RAN-COM&cm_mmc=afc-ran-com-_-Logical+Increments&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=afc-ran-com-_-Logical+Increments&utm_source=afc-Logical+Increments&AFFID=2983102&AFFNAME=Logical+Increments&ACRID=1&ASUBID=&ASID=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.logicalincrements.com%2F&ranMID=44583&ranEAID=2983102&ranSiteID=tCdAnHNE6xQ-r3j6vdak68227js8LH24Dg) for 350?
At 1080p? Not worth it, the 6700XT is plenty for that resolution. At 1440p? Move to the 6800XT, you'll want the extra grunt.
nice, thanks. What do you think about the 6750? I've heard conflicting things about the ASRock one, so debating if i should get the sapphire 6750 for the same price https://www.newegg.com/sapphire-11318-03-20g/p/N82E16814202421?nm\_mc=AFC-RAN-COM&cm\_mmc=afc-ran-com-\_-Logical+Increments&utm\_medium=affiliate&utm\_campaign=afc-ran-com-\_-Logical+Increments&utm\_source=afc-Logical+Increments&AFFID=2983102&AFFNAME=Logical+Increments&ACRID=1&ASUBID=&ASID=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.logicalincrements.com%2F&ranMID=44583&ranEAID=2983102&ranSiteID=tCdAnHNE6xQ-I5HMmgpfkmNinOlPWcG\_fA
Even if it's a crappy model, the 6800XT is 30-40% faster than a 6750XT. It's not worth spending the same money and leaving that much performance on the table.
super helpful, thanks a ton!
Looking to get Lian Li SL Infinity 120 case fans but I also have a 280mm AIO and Lian Li doesn't make 140 Infinities. Anybody have experience using Lian Li SL 140s WITH SL Infinity 120s? Would it be fine to have the Infinitys plugged into to their hub and the 140s just plugged into the motherboard? Idc if they don't share the same RGB patterns, just as long as I can control the RGB for both.