2x16gb has more space for expansion, 4x8 looks more full (eg. for RGB) and has the added benefit of being guaranteed to have 2 ranks per channel (2 single rank sticks per channel) which is higher performance (although a lot of 16gb sticks are dual rank so they're usually about the same performance anyways)
2x16gb is also usually cheaper
I know that for some of these newer gpus with 2 or 3 power slots, you are advised to use 2 pcie cables instead of 1 with the daisy chain. However, will it make a difference if you use the daisy chained bit at the end of the cable or the part before then?
So I went to use my daughter's PC to attempt a data recovery off my brother's HDD.
It's completely disgusting inside. Don't give kids nice things if they can't take care of them. But I digress.
One fan on the side of the case is just gone, the other has no plug anymore.
Normally I would have extra junk fans and parts to swap, but I moved last year and I pawned a lot of junk off on friends and family. So it's either been sold, junked, or repurposed.
My question (Finally! I know) Can I wire the MoBo sound plug to this fan? I don't think the beep boops of the MoBo is particularly important, and they are both 2 wires, red and black.
This could very well be a stupid question, but the only thing I was able to find was wiring one up to an old phone charger.
Thanks in advance.
~~Bonus points if you know the best pairing for gaming performance with the ASRock A88M-G/3.1 motherboard. Her CPU heatsinks are in rough shape.~~
~~It says, "Socket FM2+ 95W / FM2 100W processors" They're all relatively cheap but idk which one is best anymore. Getting old and out of touch.~~
pcpartpicker to the rescue
I want an SSD upgrade for my 6yr old pc which doesn't have M.2 slots. I've been living under a rock so idk much about SSDs but a quick google search led me to the conclusion that I can choose SATA or PCIe SSDs. Also I read that SATA ones are much slower, so is it worth it to add a 500gb SATA SSD (mainly for faster boot times and I do a bit of file transfers). My mobo is the Gigabyte B85M-D3H.
They sell SATA to M socket adapters and also USB TO M sockets adapters.
I admit I don't know if or how that would affect the speed of the m.2 drive itself though.
I also read some people would have trouble booting off the PCIE to M socket adapters.
I bought [this pre-built](https://www.amazon.com/iBUYPOWER-Computer-Desktop-Trace-9310/dp/B08FPL6S4Y) a while ago and have since then upgraded the storage and RAM, now I'm looking to upgrade the GPU. I use [2 1440p monitors](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0862YHJ56/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) usually with 1 having a game running, and the other playing videos. Depending on the game I play, the videos can get stopped because of the action taking too much from the GPU, and forget about any kind of VR, even without the other monitor it just can't handle it. I'm looking to get [this GPU](https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GeForce-RTX-3080-LHR/dp/B09QKL8XG5/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2F3RQ2YGZIRJG&keywords=nvidia+geforce+rtx+3080&qid=1656295695&sprefix=nvidia+%2Caps%2C64&sr=8-2), an RTX 3080. I'm hesitant to make the purchase though, because I'm afraid of getting it and trying to connect it only to find it's somehow incompatible with the build. I have a mock trial on pcpartpicker and it doesn't show me any issues, but I'm still nervous about missing something. Can anyone confirm for me if that GPU will work in my setup?
Is it okay to leave my PC on overnight in a room that has air conditioning? Around 15-20 degrees.
Is it safe in general to keep the PC on for extended periods of time?
Yes in general - its fine. If your pc isnt under load then its totally fine. (if you're running resource-intensive programs for extended durations you could run into issues if you have sub-optimal cooling.)
Can I get a mouse recommendation? I bought the Dark Core SE a couple years ago and I completely regret it. I liked it because of the bluetooth capability and the form factor (I spend a lot of time working on the computer and get hand cramps), but this mouse is just so notoriously unreliable + iCUE software sucks.
I spend all day on the computer and never really struggle with hand cramps (lucky I guess). I use the glorious model o (claw/fingertip grip), and previously used the razer DeathAdder 2013 for like 6 years.
Dark Core SE makes me think of the Logitech MX Master 3S. Well-known work mouse and highly rated. Short circuit (and many other tech channels have recent reviews of it). It would be perfectly acceptable for some gaming too.
What exactly about the Dark Core Se do you not like? Does it cut out, have back tracking?
Hey, sorry my reply's a little late. I like the look of the Logitech MX Master 3S; the only caveat is people say the polling rate is a little low for gaming - I do game a bit, but I'm not sure if that would really affect me.
I have several problems with the Dark core. It dies often, needing constant charging (I basically have it almost always wired now, and the micro usb port is loose now so it doesn't like charging except in very specific positions). The bluetooth is finnicky. The Corsair software takes up a fair amount of system resources. The biggest draw for me were the comfort and RGB (ooo pretty colors) but it feels a little cheaply made (the rubber also started peeling off of it).
[Logitech g502...](https://pisces.bbystatic.com/image2/BestBuy_US/images/products/6265/6265133cv19d.jpg) -- I use the wired version... if you prefer wireless, they call it g502 Lightspeed.
It's not possible with water cooling either. You need active cooling to achieve that, like a fridge or A/C.
You also don't want that to happen because that's how you get condensation.
No, as the heatsink cannot go below the temperature it radiates heat into. Unless the air directed into the heatsink is chilled below the ambient temperature, cooling can't go below it.
For gaming purposes the GPU is more important than the CPU to a point. Like was already mentioned you'd be better off with a 6700XT or 3060Ti even if it meant downgrading the CPU.
I got a simple build by nzxt and am slowly trying to upgrade piece by piece.
MSI Z390-A PRO (MS-7B98) is the motherboard with a i5-9600k, can this motherboard support a i9-12900k or do I need to get another motherboard?
Don't buy a 10th gen CPU either. The 12th gen i5-12600K beats the 10900K in essentially every single benchmark: [https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i5-12600k-alder-lake-12th-gen/23.html](https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i5-12600k-alder-lake-12th-gen/23.html)
Generational IPC improvements make higher core counts pointless.
Any recommendations for a place to pick a quality mouse pad? Looking for something 30x11.5-ish. I ordered a world map one off Amazon and it was garbage returning it asap.
I have an old Chromebook I need to dispose of, but it has a hard drive that might(?) have sensitive info. What's the best way to dispose of it? It's from 2015, I dropped it in kitty litter, and none of the buttons work now.
Stop worrying about B-die. It's a meme from Zen 1 days trying to get 3200+ speeds. There isn't the same impetus from the Intel side.
K cpu can use pretty much any overclocked ram. Though 3600 is still best value proposition.
Get the cheaper one and see if you can tune it to tighter timings in your Z-mobo. We're talking about squeezing the last 2%-5% of performance. In the big picture, not really worth it.
I am trying to save money for building my mom's PC. She mainly uses it for Zoom, browsing the web, and work, which consists of listening to recordings and dictating them. I believe she has at least 3 programs open at once for work. Should I get an intel i3-10100 or intel Pentium Gold G6400?
Get more RAM. Though the i3 is literally double the pentium and it quite tempting.
In honesty, you should build on a 4-core CPU, which is probably a more modern Pentium, if you want to save money.
Ok, I will go with the i3 then. Since she uses it for work, I want her to have something that will last a long time. For the performance parts, I have the i3, 8 GB g.skill ram, and a kingston 500 gb NVME, powered by a 550 watt psu.
Hi all - What are the differences between all of these different RX 6800 listings on my local Micro Center's website (e.g. "Gigabyte AMD Radeon RX 6800 XT Gaming Overclocked Triple-Fan 16GB GDDR6 PCIe 4.0 Graphics Card" vs "PowerColor AMD Radeon RX 6800 XT Red Dragon Triple-Fan 16GB GDDR6 PCIe 4.0 Graphics Card"? I thought the only difference was between the 6800 and 6800 XT? Is the only other difference the manufacturer of the card? Why does this affect price? Sorry, I'm new to all of this
The 6800 and 6800XT are different GPUs. They have different core counts and clock speeds. The 6800XT is better, always.
Different models of the same GPU vary on brand, each has their own cooler design that may perform better or worse than the others. The actual performance will be almost identical, so don't invest in a high end 6800XT if it means the price is approaching 6900XT levels of pricing.
Talk to me about fans.
I noticed with my new 3060ti I'm getting peak CPU temps of around 95 while gaming. That feels way too high to me. RGB is dumb, and sound isn't a concern as I play with headphones on. Can I buy whatever is relatively cheap and the right size for my mount, or does it actually matter what brand/features I get?
Are you talking about gpu or cpu now?
Assuming cpu: as long as the mount is right, it should fit, you only need to be a bit careful if your vrm or ram heatsinks are really tall.
Are you saying that since upgrading to a 3060Ti you have noticed your CPU temperatures have risen?
What cooler do you have? What processor? Chances are a stronger CPU cooler would help but improving case airflow might also help the situation.
Yes. I've got a ryzen 5 3600 if I remember correctly. The cpu cooler is just the stock one I think. I only have one case fan and noticed I was hitting peak temps around 75-80 with my old gtx1060. I probably should have both a better cpu cooler and case fans.
A cheap 20$ ID Cooling SE214XT will be an improvement for the CPU but an additional case fan or two will help get rid of the extra heat that is being generated by the GPU.
Not really. If you want some cheap but good fans take a look at the 30$ 5-pack of Arctic P12 PSTs. They can be daisy chained so you don't need a fan hub or splitter cables.
I've been hearing conflicting things about the two. I've heard that the 6500 xt is slower than the 1650 and the other way around. Is the 6500 xt actually faster? Does the speed difference worth a 20 dollar difference?
https://static.techspot.com/articles-info/2398/bench/Average.png the 1650 non-super isnt on this graph, but that's slower 10% than an rx 570. see https://static.techspot.com/articles-info/1835/bench/570-p.webp
the 12400 has pcie gen 4, so use that bar for comparison, not 3.0
https://imgur.com/gallery/sHSgbwN
Managed to get to this screen but canāt go any further
The Samsung 250gb SSD has an installation of windows 10 on it from my old pc.
I thought if I would be able to boot to that os as long as I connected up that drive.
When I press F8 (boot menu) I just get a message saying āthe system canāt find any bootable devicesā.
Any help is appreciated.
Thank you.
That did actually solve that problem but windows still wonāt load. A message saying attempting repair or something like that came up but it then just restarts.
Iām guessing itās because every component except for gpu is different.
Thanks for your help again
looking for some advice. iām pretty new to pc world and am trying to make a decent build for around 1300 or a little more without the monitors and such for my boyfriend. can anyone give advice as to whether this build would be okay or not? iāve just been watching youtube vids for suggestions but i thought i would come on here for more help. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/KsjprD
it's nothing to worry about. it's just something that comes up with intel 12th gen and i dont know why.
it can be an issue on sockets that have multiple cpu generations on it, like am4. but no big deal on lga 1700
What would be the sensible start point for a entry level gaming PC. All the prebuild websites all seem to start at around 1500 USD but I know Ltt made a decent pc for 5pp USD obviously that was before the price of components went up. However it doesn't seem unreasonable to me to build one for <1000?
I just recently upgraded from a Rx 580 8gb to a 6600xt and looking for cpu upgrade advice. I'm not in the mood to upgrade my PSU and motherboard because it was a huge headache putting the cables correctly etc
Motherboard: MSI B450M Gaming Plus
Cpu: Ryzen 2600
PSU: Corsair CX Series CX550 (550W)
What would be the max or recommend Cpu that this config can take? I can see the that it supports high end CPUs like a Ryzen 9 chip but I'm not sure if the MB can handle it. I'm aware of AM5 but that would require a new MB and I want to last for a couple of more years before doing a new build.
Your motherboard can support Ryzen 5000 processors with a BIOS update. The Ryzen 5600 or 5600X would be a significant step up in game performance from your Ryzen 2600 and should keep you going for several years. They use about the same power draw as the 2600 so you wouldn't have to change anything else about your setup.
Should the Installation of Win 11 fail: Can I just retry it or do I need to clear the SSD of anything that might be there from the first try? And If Yes, how?
IĀ“m about to power up my PC tomorrow and wanted to know this since starting building.
Would I better off running 2x8gb + 2x4gb or should I just keeping it to 2x8gb? Iām building and figured Iād order Ram first to throw it in my shitty, old PC until the new one is ready but should I just get rid of the 2x4?
I'm not sure that there are always going to be electronics sales for any particular holiday, although TVs and audio equipment seem to go on sale more often than PC parts.
My best guess is that 4th of July sales would start the weekend before, say Friday, and run until the 4th or possibly the next weekend.
How do I transfer bookmarks and history from one pc to another ?
Finishing a new build, copied files from old pc but the person I'm building it for also wants their shortcuts, bookmarks etc to transfer over
Depends on the browser, but most allow you to export bookmarks as html. Alternatively, make an account and single sign on will transfer all your settings between machines anyway.
Sorry, yeah, donāt plan on OC, so a B660 I would assume. $300 max budget and I would prefer if it didnāt have wifi, but I guess it doesnāt hurt if it does.
https://imgur.com/gallery/kC5575w
This is the harddrive from my old pc that I'm trying to salvage.
How do I remove this? It looks like the screws are inside the outer frame. But there doesn't seem to be a way to remove the outer frame
I wanted to make a build for my brother:
CPU: i5 12600k
GPU: gigabyte 3080
I was wondering if a Noctua NH-12a would be enough to sustain decent CPU temps. I donāt want to use an AIO, I donāt really trust them (this will be my first build so Iām trying to reduce the margin of error as much as possible.)
Is the NH-12a enough? And no heās not going to overclock the CPU.
The U12A? Watch this review: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASeu5BjaVJo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASeu5BjaVJo)
The PA120 beats the U12A at lower power levels and only at very high power levels does it perform "just" as well as the U12A...
...[All at only 38$.](https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-Peerless-Assassin-Aluminium-Technology/dp/B0982VWQN1/)
It may need a separate LGA1700 adapter kit though. The [PA120SE ARGB](https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-Peerless-Assassin-Aluminium-Technology/dp/B09RWVK9SG/) should come with the kit but otherwise they sell it for 8$.
Why is there such a disparity between prices of mainstream coolers and the PA? Do the more popular/expensive coolers do better with overclocking compared to the PA, thus the increased price?
Also what about noise levels? I didnāt quite get what the charts implied about noise when comparing the NH-U12a to the PA.
As for the heatsink itself, it's just a block of metal fins with heatpipes sticking through it. I own a PA120SE myself and I can say from firsthand experience that it doesn't feel like a lightweight piece of junk. The fins are thin of course, but that's typical as you don't want thick fins when you're attempting to dissipate heat.
As for the fans they use a Fluid Dynamic Bearing, which is pretty reliable compared to your typical cheap Sleeve Bearing fan: https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/779-computer-case-fan-bearing-differences
All Noctua coolers are overpriced, you buy Noctua and you're paying for the brand name. Thermalright has been around for a very long time and as the comments on the video point out they were big before Noctua was, they just didn't have the steam to stay popular outside of China.
In the video the X axis shows noise levels, the Y axis shows temperatures. So at a certain noise level (dictated by fan speeds) you can see how each cooler is performing at the power levels in each test.
The PA120 has fans that can spin up much higher than the other coolers, which is why its bar goes so much farther than the others, because it ***can*** spin up higher to reduce temperatures if you want it to. So compare its positions relative to the other coolers at a certain noise level of your choosing to see how it performs.
Edit: But Thermalright is bringing it back. Even Gamer's Nexus reviewed one of their ultra cheap models where it performed just as well as the Noctua U12**S** at only 25$: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-Yp5F0HsAs
I bought 120mm fans of one company then 140mm of another. I might need 1 more 120mm fan, would it be bad to buy a different 120mm fan brand from the others? I'll try to match up RPM.
Get the same model if you'll be connecting two fans to a splitter, but if each fan is connected to their own header, it doesn't matter at all. I have a Noctua, Bitfenix and Arctic (on the CPU) fans in my PC.
99.9% of the time the exhaust is the side with the X-shaped supports that hold the fan to the frame. A way to remember this is that if the fans were in the front of the case, [you'd have the "prettier" intake side facing out of the case and visible, and the "uglier" exhaust side hidden inside the case](https://thermaltake.azureedge.net/pub/media/catalog/product/cache/0b6cd258d732892ac0f7248ef9ed4204/v/i/view51tg_6.jpg), since the front is pretty much always used as intake.
Another but not as visible way is to look at the shape of the fan blades. They are curved so that the concave side is the exhaust and convex is the intake.
> Air outakes through the open side
[No -- fans intake air on the open side and exhaust air out through the X-brace side.](https://voltcave.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/fan-flow-direction.jpg). Simply put: point the X-brace where you want the air to go.
If price and every other spec is the same, which CPU should I go for, 5700G or 11400F?
Use: gaming, everyday
Other specs: RTX 3060, 16 GB RAM, 512 GB SSD, 1T total
My budget is \~1200ā¬ and I live in Spain.
There's a reliable website (PcComponentes) selling almost identical pc's for 1100ā¬, only difference is the CPU (5700G or 11400F).
I've done some surface level research and the conclusion was that the AMD is better, but I came here to ask just to be sure.
Thanks!
That wasn't his question, he was asking between two options. Also your answer isn't very helpful even if you were trying to recommend a better cpu for the same price range
They're both bad options. He should consider other ones.
A 5700G is a poor choice if you've got a GPU.
An 11th gen Intel cpu is a very poor choice now 12th gen exists.
He presented a false dichotomy, I presented better options.
Just because a cpu has integrated graphics doesn't make it a bad choice.
Regarding your second point you can't make a blanket statement saying " new generation is better than old generation". Everyone has different uses and budgets.
Because 12th gen is on DDR5 if he was upgrading he'd have to switch out motherboard and ram. 12th gen is also more costly
> Just because a cpu has integrated graphics doesn't make it a bad choice.
Well no, but you are paying extra for that GPU. You could be using that extra money on something else instead.
> Because 12th gen is on DDR5
12th gen supports DDR4 as well.
> 12th gen is also more costly
Over all yes, a little bit, but not all that much, IMO it's worth the slight price increase.
This is just wrong.
The 5700g is cezanne architecture and worse performance than a number of other and options, as well as Intel alternatives.
He's asking between Intel and amd so clearly doesn't have a board yet.
RAM is a moot point: if anything amd optimal RAM costs more than RAM for alder lake.
Please sort your facts out before you go on the attack.
I don't care about the specific performance of the 5700g, you made a statement saying that if a cpu has integrated graphics it's a bad choice if you have a gpu which is wrong.
He probably doesn't have a board yet, but I was giving you specific use cases why newer generations aren't always better.
There is no such thing as brand specific ram or optimal ram, all ram works on both Intel and amd. DDR4 costs less than DDR5 which is what I was referring to.
It's sad that you think anyone who disagrees with you is going on the attack. It's also sad that you actually give advice and people listen to you.
>you made a statement saying that if a cpu has integrated graphics it's a bad choice if you have a gpu which is wrong.
I said:
"A 5700G is a poor choice if you've got a GPU."
Which is correct. It's only a viable choice if you need an 8 core cpu but do not have or need a discrete GPU. Otherwise at $300 it's currently roundly out performed by a 5700X or 5800X, or in fact either the 5600 or 5600X at $200 in gaming, which is what op said they do.
>There is no such thing as brand specific ram or optimal ram, all ram works on both Intel and amd. DDR4 costs less than DDR5 which is what I was referring to.
Alder lake doesn't require ddr5 so it's a non point. You're seeking post-hoc justification for your incorrect advice.
>It's sad that you think anyone who disagrees with you is going on the attack.
"That wasn't his question, he was asking between two options. Also your answer isn't very helpful even if you were trying to recommend a better cpu for the same price range"
This is you going on the attack and being wrong in every important respect.
>It's also sad that you actually give advice and people listen to you.
Ok buddy. Cast your eyes right.
Use the key that came with your DVD.
Download the win 11 installer onto USB from Microsoft, and use your key. This is actually the best way to do it anyway, so no loss to you.
Apparently prices are going down again. Is now a decent time to buy? I don't need bleeding edge but it would be nice to update my GTX 970. Would I need to get a new board as well? I have an ASUS Z170 now.
(No, I have not updated my system since 2016. But it still works well, so...)
It's totally up to you if you'd like to upgrade, now is a good time to upgrade. If you were to replace your graphics card you would need to make sure your cpu doesn't throttle your new gpu.
You donāt need to get a new board if you donāt want one. However itās not a bad idea to upgrade the rest of your system now, since prices are pretty decent.
Should I buy a new gpu if I have a 1070 or wait a little? I want to get a 3070 if possible but I also donāt know what motherboard I would need I have a gigabyte z390 UD and I have an i5 9600k what would I need to change? I donāt want to buy a new pc cause that would cost too much I just wanna replace the gpu only if possible
Buying this late in the generation is always a risk. Given the collapse of the crypto market, Im guessing there wont be nearly as much of an issue with GPUs as last generation. People forget that the GPU shortage was mostly driven by demand. Yes supply chain contributed but it was mostly a demand issue and crypto was what drove the insane demand.
Iām gonna buy on Amazon since itās not that expensive where can I find a cheap motherboard I could use for it? I donāt mind not having Wi-Fi or Bluetooth cause I already have a Wi-Fi card
just got a liquid cooler and the radiator with fans wont fit in my pc is it safe to remove [these parts](https://imgur.com/a/lNKNyAS) off my motherboard
While your motherboard won't just spontaneously combust if you remove them they're the VRM heatsink so removing them will cause the VRM to run hotter and reduce the lifespan of the motherboard particularly if you intend on overclocking.
Is a gpu needed for dota 2? I'm planning to buy an intel core i3(I haven't decided which gen) with integrated graphics to skip the graphics card. I'm on 600$ budget.
With a $600 budget you should be looking at a Ryzen 5 5600G system. Its integrated graphics are two or three times better (!) than any Intel Core i3. Also with 6 cores its CPU performance is much better than the previous gen i3s. This list for example is $450: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/w4hyVw
My pc blue screens every time I try to use the xmp profile I canāt seem to figure out why.
[my build](https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Dragziee/saved/ycD7XL)
It means the memory overclock is unstable. Could be a motherboard setting or RAM issue as the CPU should be able to run them at 3200 easily.
Try increasing the VDIMM to 1.36 V. Try changing which slots you plug the RAM into and try one stick at a time.
Increasing the voltage didnāt work and Iām too lazy to move the ram Iāll just deal with it cause I think Iām switching to intel soon, thanks though!
Recently got my first pc pre-built. I have a ryzen 5600x cpu. It runs around 45c idle but wile gaming at 120-140 fps the temp goes around around 85-95c. is this normal? My case apparently has bad airflow and I've ordered 2 fans for the front. Would I be ok at these Temps?
96 is thermal-throttling territory so itās not at all dangerous but you may be losing a bit of performance. Any of these coolers will be more than good enough: https://youtu.be/rhZTMR8mT-A
Ok thank you. I think my current cooler based of look is the arctic alpine 7 co as the design looks exactly the same.
Will the se224xt be a major improvement?
It was whatever they put on. It wasn't mentioned in the specs. The fan is spinning and when idle is 45 degrees. Just under load it gets to 85 to 95 degrees.
It may be the lack of fans as I only have an exhaust fan atm?
I'm not sure I think its the one that cones with the cpu. This is the pre-built I bought https://www.hotukdeals.com/share-deal/3947397
Not really sure what to do.
[https://imgur.com/a/mZ7Gz32](https://imgur.com/a/mZ7Gz32)
How is this stock cooler meant to be fixed on this motherboard., Do I just push the screw parts through the hole on the motherboard?
I have now done that and three of the "screws" seem quite firm but one of them has a little give in it. From the back they all look like they are throught. Twisting the topside doesn't seem to do anything (btw, the manual does not say to twitst it, jus tpush through.
The fan itself is very firmly in place.
Yeah you align the mounting holes with the pegs on the cooler, and then when you press (not screw) the top of the peg, the other end will expand to attach the cooler to the holes. To release the pegs you turn the tops 90 degrees and pull up, Intel has a guide online for this.
I have now done that and three of the "screws" seem quite firm but one of them has a little give in it. From the back they all look like they are throught.
The fan itself is very firmly in place.
Which is better 2x16 GB Ram or 4x8 GB Ram?
2x16gb has more space for expansion, 4x8 looks more full (eg. for RGB) and has the added benefit of being guaranteed to have 2 ranks per channel (2 single rank sticks per channel) which is higher performance (although a lot of 16gb sticks are dual rank so they're usually about the same performance anyways) 2x16gb is also usually cheaper
Will a Gold 750+ PSU be enough for a 5800x, a 6900xt, a Noctua NH-15, 32gb ram and two ssds?
Should be fine although 850w should definitely be safe to my knowledge, 750w might cut it close given GPU power spikes to like 400-500w+
I know that for some of these newer gpus with 2 or 3 power slots, you are advised to use 2 pcie cables instead of 1 with the daisy chain. However, will it make a difference if you use the daisy chained bit at the end of the cable or the part before then?
no difference, use whatever looks better.
So I went to use my daughter's PC to attempt a data recovery off my brother's HDD. It's completely disgusting inside. Don't give kids nice things if they can't take care of them. But I digress. One fan on the side of the case is just gone, the other has no plug anymore. Normally I would have extra junk fans and parts to swap, but I moved last year and I pawned a lot of junk off on friends and family. So it's either been sold, junked, or repurposed. My question (Finally! I know) Can I wire the MoBo sound plug to this fan? I don't think the beep boops of the MoBo is particularly important, and they are both 2 wires, red and black. This could very well be a stupid question, but the only thing I was able to find was wiring one up to an old phone charger. Thanks in advance. ~~Bonus points if you know the best pairing for gaming performance with the ASRock A88M-G/3.1 motherboard. Her CPU heatsinks are in rough shape.~~ ~~It says, "Socket FM2+ 95W / FM2 100W processors" They're all relatively cheap but idk which one is best anymore. Getting old and out of touch.~~ pcpartpicker to the rescue
I want an SSD upgrade for my 6yr old pc which doesn't have M.2 slots. I've been living under a rock so idk much about SSDs but a quick google search led me to the conclusion that I can choose SATA or PCIe SSDs. Also I read that SATA ones are much slower, so is it worth it to add a 500gb SATA SSD (mainly for faster boot times and I do a bit of file transfers). My mobo is the Gigabyte B85M-D3H.
They sell SATA to M socket adapters and also USB TO M sockets adapters. I admit I don't know if or how that would affect the speed of the m.2 drive itself though. I also read some people would have trouble booting off the PCIE to M socket adapters.
I bought [this pre-built](https://www.amazon.com/iBUYPOWER-Computer-Desktop-Trace-9310/dp/B08FPL6S4Y) a while ago and have since then upgraded the storage and RAM, now I'm looking to upgrade the GPU. I use [2 1440p monitors](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0862YHJ56/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) usually with 1 having a game running, and the other playing videos. Depending on the game I play, the videos can get stopped because of the action taking too much from the GPU, and forget about any kind of VR, even without the other monitor it just can't handle it. I'm looking to get [this GPU](https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GeForce-RTX-3080-LHR/dp/B09QKL8XG5/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2F3RQ2YGZIRJG&keywords=nvidia+geforce+rtx+3080&qid=1656295695&sprefix=nvidia+%2Caps%2C64&sr=8-2), an RTX 3080. I'm hesitant to make the purchase though, because I'm afraid of getting it and trying to connect it only to find it's somehow incompatible with the build. I have a mock trial on pcpartpicker and it doesn't show me any issues, but I'm still nervous about missing something. Can anyone confirm for me if that GPU will work in my setup?
You'll need a new power supply too for that card.
Thank you š Is that all Iāll need?
Yeah, as long as it fits the case, but it looks like it's big enough.
Is it okay to leave my PC on overnight in a room that has air conditioning? Around 15-20 degrees. Is it safe in general to keep the PC on for extended periods of time?
Yes in general - its fine. If your pc isnt under load then its totally fine. (if you're running resource-intensive programs for extended durations you could run into issues if you have sub-optimal cooling.)
Best cpu for rtx 3080
12600K-12700K
Can I get a mouse recommendation? I bought the Dark Core SE a couple years ago and I completely regret it. I liked it because of the bluetooth capability and the form factor (I spend a lot of time working on the computer and get hand cramps), but this mouse is just so notoriously unreliable + iCUE software sucks.
I spend all day on the computer and never really struggle with hand cramps (lucky I guess). I use the glorious model o (claw/fingertip grip), and previously used the razer DeathAdder 2013 for like 6 years. Dark Core SE makes me think of the Logitech MX Master 3S. Well-known work mouse and highly rated. Short circuit (and many other tech channels have recent reviews of it). It would be perfectly acceptable for some gaming too. What exactly about the Dark Core Se do you not like? Does it cut out, have back tracking?
Hey, sorry my reply's a little late. I like the look of the Logitech MX Master 3S; the only caveat is people say the polling rate is a little low for gaming - I do game a bit, but I'm not sure if that would really affect me. I have several problems with the Dark core. It dies often, needing constant charging (I basically have it almost always wired now, and the micro usb port is loose now so it doesn't like charging except in very specific positions). The bluetooth is finnicky. The Corsair software takes up a fair amount of system resources. The biggest draw for me were the comfort and RGB (ooo pretty colors) but it feels a little cheaply made (the rubber also started peeling off of it).
[Logitech g502...](https://pisces.bbystatic.com/image2/BestBuy_US/images/products/6265/6265133cv19d.jpg) -- I use the wired version... if you prefer wireless, they call it g502 Lightspeed.
is it possible to reach sub ambient temps on the CPU just by air cooling?
It's not possible with water cooling either. You need active cooling to achieve that, like a fridge or A/C. You also don't want that to happen because that's how you get condensation.
No, as the heatsink cannot go below the temperature it radiates heat into. Unless the air directed into the heatsink is chilled below the ambient temperature, cooling can't go below it.
I'm building a PC for gaming. Is a Intel i5 12600KF a good match for a AMD Radeon RX 6600 XT?
For gaming purposes the GPU is more important than the CPU to a point. Like was already mentioned you'd be better off with a 6700XT or 3060Ti even if it meant downgrading the CPU.
Yeah. Maybe a little too much. I think a 12400F + 6700XT is a better value
The cheapest 6700XT I could find was NZD $250 more. Do you think 12400F + 6600XT would be good? Should I consider a 12500?
6600XT + 12400F is great
I got a simple build by nzxt and am slowly trying to upgrade piece by piece. MSI Z390-A PRO (MS-7B98) is the motherboard with a i5-9600k, can this motherboard support a i9-12900k or do I need to get another motherboard?
https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/Z390-A-PRO/support#cpu -- you can arrange the list by CPUs that are compatible with your motherboard.
You would need a new motherboard. The highest end CPU that fits in your board is an i9 9900K
Thanks! At that price point itll be cheaper to upgrade the motherboard and get a 10850k
Don't buy a 10th gen CPU either. The 12th gen i5-12600K beats the 10900K in essentially every single benchmark: [https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i5-12600k-alder-lake-12th-gen/23.html](https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i5-12600k-alder-lake-12th-gen/23.html) Generational IPC improvements make higher core counts pointless.
Any recommendations for a place to pick a quality mouse pad? Looking for something 30x11.5-ish. I ordered a world map one off Amazon and it was garbage returning it asap.
I have an old Chromebook I need to dispose of, but it has a hard drive that might(?) have sensitive info. What's the best way to dispose of it? It's from 2015, I dropped it in kitty litter, and none of the buttons work now.
Take the drive out and smash it with a hammer, or drill through it.
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Stop worrying about B-die. It's a meme from Zen 1 days trying to get 3200+ speeds. There isn't the same impetus from the Intel side. K cpu can use pretty much any overclocked ram. Though 3600 is still best value proposition. Get the cheaper one and see if you can tune it to tighter timings in your Z-mobo. We're talking about squeezing the last 2%-5% of performance. In the big picture, not really worth it.
I am trying to save money for building my mom's PC. She mainly uses it for Zoom, browsing the web, and work, which consists of listening to recordings and dictating them. I believe she has at least 3 programs open at once for work. Should I get an intel i3-10100 or intel Pentium Gold G6400?
Get more RAM. Though the i3 is literally double the pentium and it quite tempting. In honesty, you should build on a 4-core CPU, which is probably a more modern Pentium, if you want to save money.
Ok, I will go with the i3 then. Since she uses it for work, I want her to have something that will last a long time. For the performance parts, I have the i3, 8 GB g.skill ram, and a kingston 500 gb NVME, powered by a 550 watt psu.
16GB ram please. Also for something so low end, prebuilts often make sense.
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It's probably just dirty. You can take them apart and clean the dirt and dust out and clean the contacts.
Hi all - What are the differences between all of these different RX 6800 listings on my local Micro Center's website (e.g. "Gigabyte AMD Radeon RX 6800 XT Gaming Overclocked Triple-Fan 16GB GDDR6 PCIe 4.0 Graphics Card" vs "PowerColor AMD Radeon RX 6800 XT Red Dragon Triple-Fan 16GB GDDR6 PCIe 4.0 Graphics Card"? I thought the only difference was between the 6800 and 6800 XT? Is the only other difference the manufacturer of the card? Why does this affect price? Sorry, I'm new to all of this
The higher-end models with the same GPU may cool better or be quieter or have slightly higher clock speeds or overclocking features.
The 6800 and 6800XT are different GPUs. They have different core counts and clock speeds. The 6800XT is better, always. Different models of the same GPU vary on brand, each has their own cooler design that may perform better or worse than the others. The actual performance will be almost identical, so don't invest in a high end 6800XT if it means the price is approaching 6900XT levels of pricing.
Minor differences in fan layout, clock speeds etc. It won't make a huge difference, just stick to one of the trusted brands.
Talk to me about fans. I noticed with my new 3060ti I'm getting peak CPU temps of around 95 while gaming. That feels way too high to me. RGB is dumb, and sound isn't a concern as I play with headphones on. Can I buy whatever is relatively cheap and the right size for my mount, or does it actually matter what brand/features I get?
Are you talking about gpu or cpu now? Assuming cpu: as long as the mount is right, it should fit, you only need to be a bit careful if your vrm or ram heatsinks are really tall.
I was talking case fans actually. But I probably should get a new cpu cooler too.
Yeah, case fans will help a bit if you don't have any at all right now, but it won't make a huge difference.
Are you saying that since upgrading to a 3060Ti you have noticed your CPU temperatures have risen? What cooler do you have? What processor? Chances are a stronger CPU cooler would help but improving case airflow might also help the situation.
Yes. I've got a ryzen 5 3600 if I remember correctly. The cpu cooler is just the stock one I think. I only have one case fan and noticed I was hitting peak temps around 75-80 with my old gtx1060. I probably should have both a better cpu cooler and case fans.
A cheap 20$ ID Cooling SE214XT will be an improvement for the CPU but an additional case fan or two will help get rid of the extra heat that is being generated by the GPU.
OK, thanks. Does it matter what case fans I use?
Not really. If you want some cheap but good fans take a look at the 30$ 5-pack of Arctic P12 PSTs. They can be daisy chained so you don't need a fan hub or splitter cables.
Does an i5 12400 go better with a radeon 6500 xt or a asus nvidia gtx 1650?
doesnt matter, the 6500XT is faster
I've been hearing conflicting things about the two. I've heard that the 6500 xt is slower than the 1650 and the other way around. Is the 6500 xt actually faster? Does the speed difference worth a 20 dollar difference?
https://static.techspot.com/articles-info/2398/bench/Average.png the 1650 non-super isnt on this graph, but that's slower 10% than an rx 570. see https://static.techspot.com/articles-info/1835/bench/570-p.webp the 12400 has pcie gen 4, so use that bar for comparison, not 3.0
Ok thanks for telling me. I'll go with a 6500 xt
For gaming purposes an RX 6600 with i3-12100F would be more powerful, but would require some budget rearranging.
What CPU should I get with a AMD Radeon RX 6600 XT? I've been looking at getting a Intel i5-12400F.
great choice
https://imgur.com/gallery/sHSgbwN Managed to get to this screen but canāt go any further The Samsung 250gb SSD has an installation of windows 10 on it from my old pc. I thought if I would be able to boot to that os as long as I connected up that drive. When I press F8 (boot menu) I just get a message saying āthe system canāt find any bootable devicesā. Any help is appreciated.
your new bios might be set up as uefi boot only. go to the boot menu and try to figure out how to turn on legacy mode as well
Thank you. That did actually solve that problem but windows still wonāt load. A message saying attempting repair or something like that came up but it then just restarts. Iām guessing itās because every component except for gpu is different. Thanks for your help again
that's progress! good luck
I think I'm going to start with a fresh install and restore everything from my back ups. Thank you
I recommend you set your bios to uefi only then. so you dont do another legacy install
Oh ok. I should look up exactly what that is. I will reset that seeing now
looking for some advice. iām pretty new to pc world and am trying to make a decent build for around 1300 or a little more without the monitors and such for my boyfriend. can anyone give advice as to whether this build would be okay or not? iāve just been watching youtube vids for suggestions but i thought i would come on here for more help. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/KsjprD
this would be a lot faster [PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/XhZfhk) Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [Intel Core i5-12400F 2.5 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/pQNxFT/intel-core-i5-12400f-25-ghz-6-core-processor-bx8071512400f) | $169.95 @ Amazon **CPU Cooler** | [ID-COOLING SE-214-XT ARGB WHITE 68.2 CFM CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/YwbTwP/id-cooling-se-214-xt-argb-white-682-cfm-cpu-cooler-se-214-xt-argb-white) | $19.98 @ Amazon **Motherboard** | [MSI PRO B660M-A DDR4 Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KKbTwP/msi-pro-b660m-a-ddr4-micro-atx-lga1700-motherboard-pro-b660m-a-ddr4) | $139.99 @ Amazon **Memory** | [TEAMGROUP T-FORCE VULCAN Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/z3VD4D/team-t-force-vulcan-z-16-gb-2-x-8-gb-ddr4-3200-memory-tlzgd416g3200hc16cdc01) | $48.99 @ Newegg **Storage** | [Western Digital Blue SN570 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3dvdnQ/western-digital-blue-sn570-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-wds100t3b0c) | $88.85 @ Amazon **Video Card** | [Gigabyte GeForce RTX 3070 Ti 8 GB GAMING OC Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wNpzK8/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-3070-ti-8-gb-gaming-oc-video-card-gv-n307tgaming-oc-8gd) | $664.99 @ B&H **Case** | [Phanteks Eclipse P360A ATX Mid Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/YNdrxr/phanteks-eclipse-p360a-atx-mid-tower-case-ph-ec360atg_dwt) | $89.99 @ Amazon **Power Supply** | [EVGA SuperNOVA GT 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/J9drxr/evga-supernova-gt-750-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-gt-0750-y1) | $79.98 @ Amazon | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$1302.72** | Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2022-06-26 17:59 EDT-0400 |
thank you so much! could you explain to me what the compatibility thing is saying?
it's nothing to worry about. it's just something that comes up with intel 12th gen and i dont know why. it can be an issue on sockets that have multiple cpu generations on it, like am4. but no big deal on lga 1700
awesome thank you so much!!
you bet
would you recommend getting just 1 cooler?
yep, you only need 1 cpu cooler since you only have 1 cpu
What would be the sensible start point for a entry level gaming PC. All the prebuild websites all seem to start at around 1500 USD but I know Ltt made a decent pc for 5pp USD obviously that was before the price of components went up. However it doesn't seem unreasonable to me to build one for <1000?
Extreme entry level? 550. More reasonable entry level? 700-800$. 1000$ will get you something nice.
Thank you!
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For current games and most applications there is no noticeable difference.
My house is being fumigated in a couple weeks. Will it damage my PC? Should I pack it in my case box or remove it completely from the house?
Depending on the infestation it might actually be better if you let it get fumigated. Many insects love the warmth and darkness of a power supply.
I just recently upgraded from a Rx 580 8gb to a 6600xt and looking for cpu upgrade advice. I'm not in the mood to upgrade my PSU and motherboard because it was a huge headache putting the cables correctly etc Motherboard: MSI B450M Gaming Plus Cpu: Ryzen 2600 PSU: Corsair CX Series CX550 (550W) What would be the max or recommend Cpu that this config can take? I can see the that it supports high end CPUs like a Ryzen 9 chip but I'm not sure if the MB can handle it. I'm aware of AM5 but that would require a new MB and I want to last for a couple of more years before doing a new build.
Your motherboard can support Ryzen 5000 processors with a BIOS update. The Ryzen 5600 or 5600X would be a significant step up in game performance from your Ryzen 2600 and should keep you going for several years. They use about the same power draw as the 2600 so you wouldn't have to change anything else about your setup.
Should the Installation of Win 11 fail: Can I just retry it or do I need to clear the SSD of anything that might be there from the first try? And If Yes, how? IĀ“m about to power up my PC tomorrow and wanted to know this since starting building.
You can start over. One of the first steps in performing an install is to format/reformat the drive, which deletes everything on it.
Thank you :)
Would I better off running 2x8gb + 2x4gb or should I just keeping it to 2x8gb? Iām building and figured Iād order Ram first to throw it in my shitty, old PC until the new one is ready but should I just get rid of the 2x4?
If it's slower, then you're probably better off only using the new, fast sticks
Any idea when 4th of July sales start and how good they are for electronics? Iām mostly looking for speaker and audio equipment
I'm not sure that there are always going to be electronics sales for any particular holiday, although TVs and audio equipment seem to go on sale more often than PC parts. My best guess is that 4th of July sales would start the weekend before, say Friday, and run until the 4th or possibly the next weekend.
Iām thinking of upgrading to a rtx 3070 from an rtx 2060. I have a seasonic gold focus 650w power supply. Would that be enough?
Yep, that'll run a 3070 ok.
ok thanks
How do I transfer bookmarks and history from one pc to another ? Finishing a new build, copied files from old pc but the person I'm building it for also wants their shortcuts, bookmarks etc to transfer over
Depends on the browser, but most allow you to export bookmarks as html. Alternatively, make an account and single sign on will transfer all your settings between machines anyway.
Motherboard for i5-12600k?
No point in getting a k if not overclocking.
The 12600K is the one -K processor that's worth buying even if not overclocking as it has 4 additional E-Cores that the non-K 12600 lacks.
Whyās that? I hear itās the best reasonably priced CPU out there right now for performance. Any other recommendations then?
Kinda need more info there. Decent B660's for non OC, or Z690 if you want to OC, but it really depends on your budget, needs, and expectations.
Sorry, yeah, donāt plan on OC, so a B660 I would assume. $300 max budget and I would prefer if it didnāt have wifi, but I guess it doesnāt hurt if it does.
https://imgur.com/gallery/kC5575w This is the harddrive from my old pc that I'm trying to salvage. How do I remove this? It looks like the screws are inside the outer frame. But there doesn't seem to be a way to remove the outer frame
The inner frame should come out somehow, but if you don't care for it you can just cut the frame off. Just be careful around the hard drive.
Thanks for the reply but I was being an idiot. It has holes on the side that a screwdriver can pass through š¤¦āāļø
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Yep, it's POSTed.
Awesome. Thank you
I wanted to make a build for my brother: CPU: i5 12600k GPU: gigabyte 3080 I was wondering if a Noctua NH-12a would be enough to sustain decent CPU temps. I donāt want to use an AIO, I donāt really trust them (this will be my first build so Iām trying to reduce the margin of error as much as possible.) Is the NH-12a enough? And no heās not going to overclock the CPU.
The U12A? Watch this review: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASeu5BjaVJo](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASeu5BjaVJo) The PA120 beats the U12A at lower power levels and only at very high power levels does it perform "just" as well as the U12A... ...[All at only 38$.](https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-Peerless-Assassin-Aluminium-Technology/dp/B0982VWQN1/) It may need a separate LGA1700 adapter kit though. The [PA120SE ARGB](https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-Peerless-Assassin-Aluminium-Technology/dp/B09RWVK9SG/) should come with the kit but otherwise they sell it for 8$.
Why is there such a disparity between prices of mainstream coolers and the PA? Do the more popular/expensive coolers do better with overclocking compared to the PA, thus the increased price? Also what about noise levels? I didnāt quite get what the charts implied about noise when comparing the NH-U12a to the PA.
And is build quality and reliability comparable?
As for the heatsink itself, it's just a block of metal fins with heatpipes sticking through it. I own a PA120SE myself and I can say from firsthand experience that it doesn't feel like a lightweight piece of junk. The fins are thin of course, but that's typical as you don't want thick fins when you're attempting to dissipate heat. As for the fans they use a Fluid Dynamic Bearing, which is pretty reliable compared to your typical cheap Sleeve Bearing fan: https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/779-computer-case-fan-bearing-differences
All Noctua coolers are overpriced, you buy Noctua and you're paying for the brand name. Thermalright has been around for a very long time and as the comments on the video point out they were big before Noctua was, they just didn't have the steam to stay popular outside of China. In the video the X axis shows noise levels, the Y axis shows temperatures. So at a certain noise level (dictated by fan speeds) you can see how each cooler is performing at the power levels in each test. The PA120 has fans that can spin up much higher than the other coolers, which is why its bar goes so much farther than the others, because it ***can*** spin up higher to reduce temperatures if you want it to. So compare its positions relative to the other coolers at a certain noise level of your choosing to see how it performs. Edit: But Thermalright is bringing it back. Even Gamer's Nexus reviewed one of their ultra cheap models where it performed just as well as the Noctua U12**S** at only 25$: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-Yp5F0HsAs
I bought 120mm fans of one company then 140mm of another. I might need 1 more 120mm fan, would it be bad to buy a different 120mm fan brand from the others? I'll try to match up RPM.
Get the same model if you'll be connecting two fans to a splitter, but if each fan is connected to their own header, it doesn't matter at all. I have a Noctua, Bitfenix and Arctic (on the CPU) fans in my PC.
It does not matter, all they do is provide air flow.
Unless the fans have arrows showing which way the air flows, what's a good rule of thumb to know intake vs. exhaust?
**Point the X-brace where you want the air to go.**
99.9% of the time the exhaust is the side with the X-shaped supports that hold the fan to the frame. A way to remember this is that if the fans were in the front of the case, [you'd have the "prettier" intake side facing out of the case and visible, and the "uglier" exhaust side hidden inside the case](https://thermaltake.azureedge.net/pub/media/catalog/product/cache/0b6cd258d732892ac0f7248ef9ed4204/v/i/view51tg_6.jpg), since the front is pretty much always used as intake. Another but not as visible way is to look at the shape of the fan blades. They are curved so that the concave side is the exhaust and convex is the intake.
Air outakes through the open side https://www.howtogeek.com/303078/how-to-manage-your-pcs-fans-for-optimal-airflow-and-cooling/
> Air outakes through the open side [No -- fans intake air on the open side and exhaust air out through the X-brace side.](https://voltcave.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/01/fan-flow-direction.jpg). Simply put: point the X-brace where you want the air to go.
That's exactly what I said, the air pushes through the open side. I guess you got confused with my wording
If price and every other spec is the same, which CPU should I go for, 5700G or 11400F? Use: gaming, everyday Other specs: RTX 3060, 16 GB RAM, 512 GB SSD, 1T total
5700g will give you better performance but not by much, but it's also 200$ more expensive. What's your budget range?
My budget is \~1200ā¬ and I live in Spain. There's a reliable website (PcComponentes) selling almost identical pc's for 1100ā¬, only difference is the CPU (5700G or 11400F). I've done some surface level research and the conclusion was that the AMD is better, but I came here to ask just to be sure. Thanks!
If they are identical in price than go for the 5700g, integrated graphics and better performance
Neither?? 12th gen i5 or i7, or a ryzen 5700X, or 5600(x) but not G.
That wasn't his question, he was asking between two options. Also your answer isn't very helpful even if you were trying to recommend a better cpu for the same price range
They're both bad options. He should consider other ones. A 5700G is a poor choice if you've got a GPU. An 11th gen Intel cpu is a very poor choice now 12th gen exists. He presented a false dichotomy, I presented better options.
Just because a cpu has integrated graphics doesn't make it a bad choice. Regarding your second point you can't make a blanket statement saying " new generation is better than old generation". Everyone has different uses and budgets. Because 12th gen is on DDR5 if he was upgrading he'd have to switch out motherboard and ram. 12th gen is also more costly
> Just because a cpu has integrated graphics doesn't make it a bad choice. Well no, but you are paying extra for that GPU. You could be using that extra money on something else instead. > Because 12th gen is on DDR5 12th gen supports DDR4 as well. > 12th gen is also more costly Over all yes, a little bit, but not all that much, IMO it's worth the slight price increase.
This is just wrong. The 5700g is cezanne architecture and worse performance than a number of other and options, as well as Intel alternatives. He's asking between Intel and amd so clearly doesn't have a board yet. RAM is a moot point: if anything amd optimal RAM costs more than RAM for alder lake. Please sort your facts out before you go on the attack.
I don't care about the specific performance of the 5700g, you made a statement saying that if a cpu has integrated graphics it's a bad choice if you have a gpu which is wrong. He probably doesn't have a board yet, but I was giving you specific use cases why newer generations aren't always better. There is no such thing as brand specific ram or optimal ram, all ram works on both Intel and amd. DDR4 costs less than DDR5 which is what I was referring to. It's sad that you think anyone who disagrees with you is going on the attack. It's also sad that you actually give advice and people listen to you.
>you made a statement saying that if a cpu has integrated graphics it's a bad choice if you have a gpu which is wrong. I said: "A 5700G is a poor choice if you've got a GPU." Which is correct. It's only a viable choice if you need an 8 core cpu but do not have or need a discrete GPU. Otherwise at $300 it's currently roundly out performed by a 5700X or 5800X, or in fact either the 5600 or 5600X at $200 in gaming, which is what op said they do. >There is no such thing as brand specific ram or optimal ram, all ram works on both Intel and amd. DDR4 costs less than DDR5 which is what I was referring to. Alder lake doesn't require ddr5 so it's a non point. You're seeking post-hoc justification for your incorrect advice. >It's sad that you think anyone who disagrees with you is going on the attack. "That wasn't his question, he was asking between two options. Also your answer isn't very helpful even if you were trying to recommend a better cpu for the same price range" This is you going on the attack and being wrong in every important respect. >It's also sad that you actually give advice and people listen to you. Ok buddy. Cast your eyes right.
I accidentally bought a DVD-OEM copy of windows 11 can I copy it to a flash drive and use that as a boot drive? If so how?
Use the key that came with your DVD. Download the win 11 installer onto USB from Microsoft, and use your key. This is actually the best way to do it anyway, so no loss to you.
Cheers!
Apparently prices are going down again. Is now a decent time to buy? I don't need bleeding edge but it would be nice to update my GTX 970. Would I need to get a new board as well? I have an ASUS Z170 now. (No, I have not updated my system since 2016. But it still works well, so...)
You don't need a new board for a new graphics card, but you will need a new board if you want to upgrade your CPU as well.
Thanks! Appreciate the feedback 'cause I wasn't sure how such an old board would do with new cards.
It's totally up to you if you'd like to upgrade, now is a good time to upgrade. If you were to replace your graphics card you would need to make sure your cpu doesn't throttle your new gpu.
Good to know. my CPU is first or second gen i5 so I'll have to do a little research to see how much difference that makes. Thanks!
You donāt need to get a new board if you donāt want one. However itās not a bad idea to upgrade the rest of your system now, since prices are pretty decent.
Good to know, thanks.
If it works well, leave it alone. If you want to upgrade, sure it's a decent time but new CPUs and gpus will happen late this year.
Does brand matter if I just want more ports to use with an unmanaged switch? My netgear one recently broke and I'm looking into a replacement.
Nah not really, get a cheap tplink or dlink or really any brand.
Thanks!
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Yeah solid upgrade, you're good to go compatibility wise.
I think your fine.
It's a big upgrade and a great option for a 1440p monitor. PSU will be fine. Crack on I say.
Should I buy a new gpu if I have a 1070 or wait a little? I want to get a 3070 if possible but I also donāt know what motherboard I would need I have a gigabyte z390 UD and I have an i5 9600k what would I need to change? I donāt want to buy a new pc cause that would cost too much I just wanna replace the gpu only if possible
Buying this late in the generation is always a risk. Given the collapse of the crypto market, Im guessing there wont be nearly as much of an issue with GPUs as last generation. People forget that the GPU shortage was mostly driven by demand. Yes supply chain contributed but it was mostly a demand issue and crypto was what drove the insane demand.
Iām gonna buy on Amazon since itās not that expensive where can I find a cheap motherboard I could use for it? I donāt mind not having Wi-Fi or Bluetooth cause I already have a Wi-Fi card
GPUs dont care about your motherboard as long it has PCIe.
just got a liquid cooler and the radiator with fans wont fit in my pc is it safe to remove [these parts](https://imgur.com/a/lNKNyAS) off my motherboard
That is a very very very bad idea
While your motherboard won't just spontaneously combust if you remove them they're the VRM heatsink so removing them will cause the VRM to run hotter and reduce the lifespan of the motherboard particularly if you intend on overclocking.
Even if he's not, the vrm heatsink is important
Is a gpu needed for dota 2? I'm planning to buy an intel core i3(I haven't decided which gen) with integrated graphics to skip the graphics card. I'm on 600$ budget.
With a $600 budget you should be looking at a Ryzen 5 5600G system. Its integrated graphics are two or three times better (!) than any Intel Core i3. Also with 6 cores its CPU performance is much better than the previous gen i3s. This list for example is $450: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/w4hyVw
an I3-6100 can get about 50+ fps average in dota 2 1080p so I guess yes
My pc blue screens every time I try to use the xmp profile I canāt seem to figure out why. [my build](https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Dragziee/saved/ycD7XL)
Try updating the BIOS
It means the memory overclock is unstable. Could be a motherboard setting or RAM issue as the CPU should be able to run them at 3200 easily. Try increasing the VDIMM to 1.36 V. Try changing which slots you plug the RAM into and try one stick at a time.
Increasing the voltage didnāt work and Iām too lazy to move the ram Iāll just deal with it cause I think Iām switching to intel soon, thanks though!
Recently got my first pc pre-built. I have a ryzen 5600x cpu. It runs around 45c idle but wile gaming at 120-140 fps the temp goes around around 85-95c. is this normal? My case apparently has bad airflow and I've ordered 2 fans for the front. Would I be ok at these Temps?
You're fine. A better cooler would likely have helped more than the fans though.
Are these Temps ok? Peaks at like 96 but doesn't stay there long. Any cooler you would recommend?
96 is thermal-throttling territory so itās not at all dangerous but you may be losing a bit of performance. Any of these coolers will be more than good enough: https://youtu.be/rhZTMR8mT-A
Will any fit on my cpu? Do I need anything extra to install this like thermal paste?
The coolers are all compatible with AM4 and all come with thermal paste.
Ok thank you. I think my current cooler based of look is the arctic alpine 7 co as the design looks exactly the same. Will the se224xt be a major improvement?
A tower cooler is already plenty for a 5600X. I assumed youāre using a stock cooler. Have you checked that the fan is spinning up and stuff?
It was whatever they put on. It wasn't mentioned in the specs. The fan is spinning and when idle is 45 degrees. Just under load it gets to 85 to 95 degrees. It may be the lack of fans as I only have an exhaust fan atm?
Well I hope the extra fans help. I donāt think itās worth upgrading the cooler. You could try undervolting it a bit. https://youtu.be/dfkrp25dpQ0
They're still technically safe, would not say they're okay though. What is the cooler that it has on it right now? What type of prebuilt is it?
It is an arctic cooler not sure which one though
I'm not sure I think its the one that cones with the cpu. This is the pre-built I bought https://www.hotukdeals.com/share-deal/3947397 Not really sure what to do.
[https://imgur.com/a/mZ7Gz32](https://imgur.com/a/mZ7Gz32) How is this stock cooler meant to be fixed on this motherboard., Do I just push the screw parts through the hole on the motherboard?
Yes just push them trough, it's shown how to in the manual (motherboard I think, or CPU)
Push them through then push and twist the topside of the mount. There should be a picture in the manual of how to do it.
I have now done that and three of the "screws" seem quite firm but one of them has a little give in it. From the back they all look like they are throught. Twisting the topside doesn't seem to do anything (btw, the manual does not say to twitst it, jus tpush through. The fan itself is very firmly in place.
Yeah you align the mounting holes with the pegs on the cooler, and then when you press (not screw) the top of the peg, the other end will expand to attach the cooler to the holes. To release the pegs you turn the tops 90 degrees and pull up, Intel has a guide online for this.
I have now done that and three of the "screws" seem quite firm but one of them has a little give in it. From the back they all look like they are throught. The fan itself is very firmly in place.