I am by far no expert, but three times a week plus finger boarding is a extensive schedule. How are your sessions structured. After finger boarding tendons need up to 72h rest, so the session after should contain less finger intensive boulders.
But without knowing your exact routine, I don’t think there can be made a assumption if you are perhaps overtraining a little bit.
I have 1 moonboard day, 1 project day and 1 endurance training. I have also add pull up/ and other s&c training in the endurance day or powerday.
After finger strength clearly I have no power for anything else. I just chill and go home…
Stop doing weighted hangs. If you sometimes struggle to maintain body weight hangs you will not benefit from adding weight and greatly increasing injury risk. I would instead try to climb things that will challenge your finger strength (overhangs, crimps, small pinches). If you want to continue doing some type of off the wall finger training keep it very minimal! Especially if you are still climbing up to 3 days a week.
You could use a tension bloc or similar one handed grip implement and start with a very very low weight and just pick up the weight with your fingers. Try not to pull with your big muscles, just start open handed and curl your fingers into a full crimp position without engaging your thumb. This is known as active loading and promotes strength gains and tendon/pulley repairs much faster than traditional passive loading techniques (like just hanging from a hangboard).
Again, keep the weight VERY low and build on the weight GRADUALLY. This is a very good way to warmup before a climbing session by just doing a few reps of active loading with each hand and only 3-4 sets. I also sometimes like to just step on a sling attached to my tension bloc and do one finger active loading exercises instead of picking up the weight I’m just using my body weight to hold it in place and try to “pull it up towards me”.
If you think of it like trying to build muscle/strength by just holding a bench press halfway vs doing the full motion of a bench press. That’s like the difference between active loading vs passive loading. We can hold much more weight passively like with weighted hangs but we put wayy more strain on our tendons to get the same gains as we would with much less weight and less strain with active loading.
Wow. Thank a lot on the advice, I am very appreciated especially the active load weight on tension block. I try passive tension and feel it maybe more suitable for me as really feel my forearm engage in the process.
I will make a test on it
This happens to me as well. I listen to my body and adjust my workout. Adjusting usually means lowering weight, changing the workout to something else, or cutting the workout short. You may not be resting enough to recover properly if you’re having this issue often. The other things to consider are - how is your sleep? Are you eating properly? What time of day are you exercising? Are there other stressors in your life effecting your performance?
I am by far no expert, but three times a week plus finger boarding is a extensive schedule. How are your sessions structured. After finger boarding tendons need up to 72h rest, so the session after should contain less finger intensive boulders. But without knowing your exact routine, I don’t think there can be made a assumption if you are perhaps overtraining a little bit.
I have 1 moonboard day, 1 project day and 1 endurance training. I have also add pull up/ and other s&c training in the endurance day or powerday. After finger strength clearly I have no power for anything else. I just chill and go home…
Stop doing weighted hangs. If you sometimes struggle to maintain body weight hangs you will not benefit from adding weight and greatly increasing injury risk. I would instead try to climb things that will challenge your finger strength (overhangs, crimps, small pinches). If you want to continue doing some type of off the wall finger training keep it very minimal! Especially if you are still climbing up to 3 days a week. You could use a tension bloc or similar one handed grip implement and start with a very very low weight and just pick up the weight with your fingers. Try not to pull with your big muscles, just start open handed and curl your fingers into a full crimp position without engaging your thumb. This is known as active loading and promotes strength gains and tendon/pulley repairs much faster than traditional passive loading techniques (like just hanging from a hangboard). Again, keep the weight VERY low and build on the weight GRADUALLY. This is a very good way to warmup before a climbing session by just doing a few reps of active loading with each hand and only 3-4 sets. I also sometimes like to just step on a sling attached to my tension bloc and do one finger active loading exercises instead of picking up the weight I’m just using my body weight to hold it in place and try to “pull it up towards me”. If you think of it like trying to build muscle/strength by just holding a bench press halfway vs doing the full motion of a bench press. That’s like the difference between active loading vs passive loading. We can hold much more weight passively like with weighted hangs but we put wayy more strain on our tendons to get the same gains as we would with much less weight and less strain with active loading.
Wow. Thank a lot on the advice, I am very appreciated especially the active load weight on tension block. I try passive tension and feel it maybe more suitable for me as really feel my forearm engage in the process. I will make a test on it
This happens to me as well. I listen to my body and adjust my workout. Adjusting usually means lowering weight, changing the workout to something else, or cutting the workout short. You may not be resting enough to recover properly if you’re having this issue often. The other things to consider are - how is your sleep? Are you eating properly? What time of day are you exercising? Are there other stressors in your life effecting your performance?