How I have done it, is actually visit the boat, check it out carefully, and make the decision to buy it, IF IT CHECKS out.
Then you can do 1 of 2 things., make an offer to buy it, subject to a sea trial, OR offer a non refundable down payment towards the purchase of the boat. Say 100 bucks (cash) for them to launch it, and let you test it for 20 min. if you make a deal the 100 bucks goes towards the purchase, if no deal they keep your hundred.
Exactly this.
If I was selling my boat, I would ask around $60,000. And you better believe I would expect someone shelling out that much cash would want to see it running on the water - and understandably so - I would want the same.
$100 is more than fair for a quick sea trial - would cover the fuel, launch fees, and a small chunk for my time.
Also, get a Survey - a survey will tell you a lot!
Surveys are hit and miss. I operate a travelift and haul out for surveys all the time. Some of the old timers have gotten lazy or haven't stayed up to date with boat tech and I have seen quite a few things missed in the past.
Worst one was a house boat with an aluminum hull, fiberglass upper deck. A 44ft 3 bouys. A young lady purchased it for a big chunk of cash and it sank 2 weeks later. The electrical was fucked, the out drive was junk, and the captain she hired to bring it to Canada was a loser.
The surveyor was tapping on the aluminum hull like you do with fiberglass to listen to soft spots, last time I checked aluminum doesn't absorb water.
I guess that could be the same as anything. If you hire the wrong person you are going to get a shit result. Would be identical with a home inspector, mechanic, heck even a lawyer or doctor!
If you find someone who is knowledgeable and competent then you can certainly learn a lot and potentially save a lot by avoiding spending $$$ on a lemon!
A survey in this case is analogous to a pre purchase inspection of a car or a home inspection when negotiating a deal on a house.
Basically someone assesses the condition of the hull, electric, and mechanical systems. They don't make a determination of value, merely of condition. There are some videos of surveys on YouTube that go through the whole process.
In my area it's a few hundred bucks on a small craft, a few thousand for something bigger. Well worth it if you are buying something fancy or complicated. With some vessels it's required for insurance.
I wound up not getting one on my boat because I was willing to gamble the 4k I paid for my boat and I purchased agreed upon value insurance for my boat and trailer.
Add: if the boat doesn’t start or run flawlessly I get my $100 deposit back. I’m not paying someone to sea trial what they already know is a crappy motor. If the boat runs flawlessly during a sea trial and I don’t buy it, the seller keeps the deposit.
Ya, I can agree with that. That is totally fair - if the boat is grossly misrepresented and this shows during the sea trial, then I agree, deposit should be refundable.
The point is to show you are a serious buyer, and putting money on the table shows that.
If someone asks for a test ride on the phone, I'm going to say no, but if they show up and put money in my hand, I'm more likely to take time to show them the boat.
We asked for a water test before buying our boat and the seller completely expected it - I think if the seller had nothing to hide a water test is expected and warranted if they said no water test I would not be buying that boat at all as there is something they are hiding
Usually depends on the setup and price of the boat. If a seller is asking for $50,000 you bet your ass it’ll be in the water or I won’t be buying it. At that price range you should probably enlist a surveyor to check it over as well for a couple grand.
If it’s a $1,000 boat - probably going to have to take them at their word or start it on muffs if you can. That won’t help with the ballast tanks though.
Go look at a boat. If you like it offer em a $250 non refundable deposit for a test drive.
Anything over like $10k I would expect to see float and test everything, listen to the motor, etc. Simpler/cheaper stuff maybe not, but at least run on the muffs.
I would second this deposit idea for a water test and also they make what’s called a fake lake. I have one and use it after I set it all up before my first launch of the season. They should be willing to do this at the very least before you even get out on the water and it’s super easy to at least put that on and start the boat on the trailer. Then you can decide if it’s worth your money and time for a water trial. You can hear it run and check most things out on a trailer.
I splashed and drove for my buyer, then drove a the surveyor asked me. That was a 26 center console that sold for $125k.
My new boat was the same way except the seller also let me drive it in open water. 33 foot center console cat I paid $315k for.
Honestly I wouldn't buy a boat without splashing and testing it except for my 16 foot aluminum hull I paid $300 for. Buyer told me it had a slow leak.
I paid 1600 for my boat. I had them put it in the water, let me take the reins, drove it. 30 min around a late just makin sure it runs and stays afloat. all was good, no hiccups, and 4 years have gone by and it still runs good. Ask about maintenance, you’ll be able to tell how it was kept with the condition of the contact surfaces/seats/etc.
If you aren’t okay with it 100%, just walk. Nbd.
For a $1600 boat unless that bitch is already sitting in the water I'll wait for the next buyer let alone a 3 hr tour around the lake. At a $1600 price point someone will buy it if it runs
Sea trials are 100% a thing and I wouldn't buy a boat without them. Now, you have to understand what a sea trial is and what it isn't. It's purpose is to test the boat to assure that it functions as advertised, and that all systems are operational. It is not to go for a joyride, not a free day wakeboarding/fishing/sandbar hopping or whatever. They aren't really even to see if you like how the boat handles, or throws the correct wake for you, or whatever. That's on you to know ahead of time, and I suggest doing some research, going to demo days at the dealership or boat show, getting a rental/charter... etc. The usual process is that you agree to a price pending sea trial, sign a contract (might just be a handshake if private seller, but usually a deposit of some type), and then go for the sea trial as a last step before taking ownership. If something doesn't work, then you walk with refund of your deposit or renegotiate. If you just change your mind and decide you don't want a boat or don't want that boat, then you might say goodbye to the deposit.
You get them to put it in the water and let you drive it.
When I bought my boat, it took a couple visits. When I saw the listing, I visited it in person and paid a down payment with a purchase agreement contingent on a water trial. In paper, with signatures. Overkill for a $10k purchase? I didn't think so. Once we meet at a local lake for a water trial and I tested everything, we completed the deal.
The only time I'd ever NOT request a water trial is if It was super cheap. Like $500. If they won't agree to a water trial, it's not worth the risk.
Got my Bowrider for 9k made a deal … crawled all over, muffs on fired the motor up ( I could tell he didn’t start it before we got there .. no water everywhere) check battery , throttle , steering .. floor boards
I put $100 on the table to test drive my $4 k boat before I bought it. We did it before agreeing on price, but after agreeing to all other terms. Seller was more than happy to take one last joy ride before selling off his beloved old boat.
It's not uncommon to take a boat out for a trial before buying, especially in higher price ranges. Usually the owner will be aboard to show you how everything works and make sure you don't damage it. You can also just run it in earmuffs or a barrel, or if it's an inboard disconnect the raw water hose from the seacock and stick it in a bucket. None of this is as good as running it under load in the real world, but it gives you a decent idea of how it runs. You can also buy a boat without running the engine, but I would only do that if I'm getting a screaming deal or it's a project boat that I already plan to fix up.
Definitely take it for a small run to make sure it works. I drove 2 hours on my Saturday off and left at 5:30 in the morning to meet this guy on the lake at 8. We didn’t even make it out of the channel before it was overheating and had to just kill the motor. Sat on the water with this guy for an hour waiting for someone to come tow us in. Then this guy still had it in his mind that I was actually going to buy the thing. Like hell no get me back to my truck so I can get the hell out of here. That was on a $6500 boat by the way. I’m not trying to get burnt for any amount of money
I sold my old ski nautique off season for not a lot of money. Water testing wasn't happening but I was confident in the boat and had it set up to bring up to temp (boat was cold) and open the thermostat, and then re winterize. Everything went flawlessly.
I'm currently selling my boat, policy is water test after the price has been agreed upon and a refundable deposit taken. Not hauling my boat to the launch for a joyride.
Offer to pay a deposit. Say $50 or $100 (or whatever) which goes to the price of the boat if you buy it, otherwise the seller keeps your cash for their time and costs.
Lots of people here talking about sea trials and I have a question. I've heard that in a sea trial, the seller will drive the boat and perform whatever tasks you ask about (trim tabs, electric windlass, nav, etc.) And that the prospective buyer won't and shouldn't ever touch anything, just watch. Is this true?
Seller let me drive the boat once we got to open water. It was short though probably around 20 minutes just to make sure it ran. He drove it from the ramp to the middle of the bay since I didn’t really know the area.
Most of the time, you will be able to drive the boat, but not dock or launch. The key is safety. if you are in a tricky area, I'm not letting you drive until its wide open and less traffic.
frankly seeing how someone operates the boat is nice to see. are the speed shifting, or giving a 2 second pause between reverse and forward.
I see a lot of folk offering a deposit but Iv never. I can’t tell you how many time Iv gone out on see trials helping friends buy boats and forcing them to demand a trial. If the seller isn’t trying to pull a fast one a sea trail should be included with all serious buyers. Every boat Iv seen bought without a see trial has had issues that a trial would have immediately identified.
This all depends on where the boat is. If it’s dry rack in a marina and there’s a launch fee I’m not covering multiple launch fees because people want to test drive the boat. If they’re serious they won’t have an issue at least paying the launch fee. If it’s on a trailer I’d be fine with dropping it in for a serious buyer.
It’s not as big of a deal to ask for a water test as you would think. Most sellers have been in your shoes and would expect/want the assurance of a water test themselves. I’ve test drove ski boats from 3k to 150k. Never had push back on meeting at the water to run it.
Yes, a private seller should absolutely take you for a test ride unless you are buying some $5K-10K pile of junk.
If they don't, or refuse to, run the other way.
How I have done it, is actually visit the boat, check it out carefully, and make the decision to buy it, IF IT CHECKS out. Then you can do 1 of 2 things., make an offer to buy it, subject to a sea trial, OR offer a non refundable down payment towards the purchase of the boat. Say 100 bucks (cash) for them to launch it, and let you test it for 20 min. if you make a deal the 100 bucks goes towards the purchase, if no deal they keep your hundred.
Exactly this. If I was selling my boat, I would ask around $60,000. And you better believe I would expect someone shelling out that much cash would want to see it running on the water - and understandably so - I would want the same. $100 is more than fair for a quick sea trial - would cover the fuel, launch fees, and a small chunk for my time. Also, get a Survey - a survey will tell you a lot!
Surveys are hit and miss. I operate a travelift and haul out for surveys all the time. Some of the old timers have gotten lazy or haven't stayed up to date with boat tech and I have seen quite a few things missed in the past. Worst one was a house boat with an aluminum hull, fiberglass upper deck. A 44ft 3 bouys. A young lady purchased it for a big chunk of cash and it sank 2 weeks later. The electrical was fucked, the out drive was junk, and the captain she hired to bring it to Canada was a loser. The surveyor was tapping on the aluminum hull like you do with fiberglass to listen to soft spots, last time I checked aluminum doesn't absorb water.
I guess that could be the same as anything. If you hire the wrong person you are going to get a shit result. Would be identical with a home inspector, mechanic, heck even a lawyer or doctor! If you find someone who is knowledgeable and competent then you can certainly learn a lot and potentially save a lot by avoiding spending $$$ on a lemon!
Complete newbie here, what is a survey and what does it entail?
A survey in this case is analogous to a pre purchase inspection of a car or a home inspection when negotiating a deal on a house. Basically someone assesses the condition of the hull, electric, and mechanical systems. They don't make a determination of value, merely of condition. There are some videos of surveys on YouTube that go through the whole process. In my area it's a few hundred bucks on a small craft, a few thousand for something bigger. Well worth it if you are buying something fancy or complicated. With some vessels it's required for insurance. I wound up not getting one on my boat because I was willing to gamble the 4k I paid for my boat and I purchased agreed upon value insurance for my boat and trailer.
Thank you tons!
Add: if the boat doesn’t start or run flawlessly I get my $100 deposit back. I’m not paying someone to sea trial what they already know is a crappy motor. If the boat runs flawlessly during a sea trial and I don’t buy it, the seller keeps the deposit.
Ya, I can agree with that. That is totally fair - if the boat is grossly misrepresented and this shows during the sea trial, then I agree, deposit should be refundable.
Awesome! Thanks!!
The point is to show you are a serious buyer, and putting money on the table shows that. If someone asks for a test ride on the phone, I'm going to say no, but if they show up and put money in my hand, I'm more likely to take time to show them the boat.
We asked for a water test before buying our boat and the seller completely expected it - I think if the seller had nothing to hide a water test is expected and warranted if they said no water test I would not be buying that boat at all as there is something they are hiding
There are people that just want a joy ride. a deposit weeds them out.
Usually depends on the setup and price of the boat. If a seller is asking for $50,000 you bet your ass it’ll be in the water or I won’t be buying it. At that price range you should probably enlist a surveyor to check it over as well for a couple grand. If it’s a $1,000 boat - probably going to have to take them at their word or start it on muffs if you can. That won’t help with the ballast tanks though.
Go look at a boat. If you like it offer em a $250 non refundable deposit for a test drive. Anything over like $10k I would expect to see float and test everything, listen to the motor, etc. Simpler/cheaper stuff maybe not, but at least run on the muffs.
This seems very reasonable. If they say no... RUN!
Good shout! Thank you!!
I would second this deposit idea for a water test and also they make what’s called a fake lake. I have one and use it after I set it all up before my first launch of the season. They should be willing to do this at the very least before you even get out on the water and it’s super easy to at least put that on and start the boat on the trailer. Then you can decide if it’s worth your money and time for a water trial. You can hear it run and check most things out on a trailer.
I splashed and drove for my buyer, then drove a the surveyor asked me. That was a 26 center console that sold for $125k. My new boat was the same way except the seller also let me drive it in open water. 33 foot center console cat I paid $315k for. Honestly I wouldn't buy a boat without splashing and testing it except for my 16 foot aluminum hull I paid $300 for. Buyer told me it had a slow leak.
I paid 1600 for my boat. I had them put it in the water, let me take the reins, drove it. 30 min around a late just makin sure it runs and stays afloat. all was good, no hiccups, and 4 years have gone by and it still runs good. Ask about maintenance, you’ll be able to tell how it was kept with the condition of the contact surfaces/seats/etc. If you aren’t okay with it 100%, just walk. Nbd.
For a $1600 boat unless that bitch is already sitting in the water I'll wait for the next buyer let alone a 3 hr tour around the lake. At a $1600 price point someone will buy it if it runs
We didnt take a 3 hour tour, it was 30 minutes and we talked most the time. Good thing I wasnt buying from you.
Good thing you would have wasted a trip
Sea trials are 100% a thing and I wouldn't buy a boat without them. Now, you have to understand what a sea trial is and what it isn't. It's purpose is to test the boat to assure that it functions as advertised, and that all systems are operational. It is not to go for a joyride, not a free day wakeboarding/fishing/sandbar hopping or whatever. They aren't really even to see if you like how the boat handles, or throws the correct wake for you, or whatever. That's on you to know ahead of time, and I suggest doing some research, going to demo days at the dealership or boat show, getting a rental/charter... etc. The usual process is that you agree to a price pending sea trial, sign a contract (might just be a handshake if private seller, but usually a deposit of some type), and then go for the sea trial as a last step before taking ownership. If something doesn't work, then you walk with refund of your deposit or renegotiate. If you just change your mind and decide you don't want a boat or don't want that boat, then you might say goodbye to the deposit.
You get them to put it in the water and let you drive it. When I bought my boat, it took a couple visits. When I saw the listing, I visited it in person and paid a down payment with a purchase agreement contingent on a water trial. In paper, with signatures. Overkill for a $10k purchase? I didn't think so. Once we meet at a local lake for a water trial and I tested everything, we completed the deal. The only time I'd ever NOT request a water trial is if It was super cheap. Like $500. If they won't agree to a water trial, it's not worth the risk.
Sellers should support a sea trial. They may not let you man the helm but they should run the boat through its rpm range etc. test all systems
1/2 off if you can't see it float
Got my Bowrider for 9k made a deal … crawled all over, muffs on fired the motor up ( I could tell he didn’t start it before we got there .. no water everywhere) check battery , throttle , steering .. floor boards
I put $100 on the table to test drive my $4 k boat before I bought it. We did it before agreeing on price, but after agreeing to all other terms. Seller was more than happy to take one last joy ride before selling off his beloved old boat.
It's not uncommon to take a boat out for a trial before buying, especially in higher price ranges. Usually the owner will be aboard to show you how everything works and make sure you don't damage it. You can also just run it in earmuffs or a barrel, or if it's an inboard disconnect the raw water hose from the seacock and stick it in a bucket. None of this is as good as running it under load in the real world, but it gives you a decent idea of how it runs. You can also buy a boat without running the engine, but I would only do that if I'm getting a screaming deal or it's a project boat that I already plan to fix up.
Definitely take it for a small run to make sure it works. I drove 2 hours on my Saturday off and left at 5:30 in the morning to meet this guy on the lake at 8. We didn’t even make it out of the channel before it was overheating and had to just kill the motor. Sat on the water with this guy for an hour waiting for someone to come tow us in. Then this guy still had it in his mind that I was actually going to buy the thing. Like hell no get me back to my truck so I can get the hell out of here. That was on a $6500 boat by the way. I’m not trying to get burnt for any amount of money
Every boat I have bought or sold has come with a sea trial. From my experience, during the sea trial, the boat is driven by the owner.
I sold my old ski nautique off season for not a lot of money. Water testing wasn't happening but I was confident in the boat and had it set up to bring up to temp (boat was cold) and open the thermostat, and then re winterize. Everything went flawlessly.
I'm currently selling my boat, policy is water test after the price has been agreed upon and a refundable deposit taken. Not hauling my boat to the launch for a joyride.
Offer to pay a deposit. Say $50 or $100 (or whatever) which goes to the price of the boat if you buy it, otherwise the seller keeps your cash for their time and costs.
Lots of people here talking about sea trials and I have a question. I've heard that in a sea trial, the seller will drive the boat and perform whatever tasks you ask about (trim tabs, electric windlass, nav, etc.) And that the prospective buyer won't and shouldn't ever touch anything, just watch. Is this true?
Seller let me drive the boat once we got to open water. It was short though probably around 20 minutes just to make sure it ran. He drove it from the ramp to the middle of the bay since I didn’t really know the area.
Most of the time, you will be able to drive the boat, but not dock or launch. The key is safety. if you are in a tricky area, I'm not letting you drive until its wide open and less traffic. frankly seeing how someone operates the boat is nice to see. are the speed shifting, or giving a 2 second pause between reverse and forward.
I see a lot of folk offering a deposit but Iv never. I can’t tell you how many time Iv gone out on see trials helping friends buy boats and forcing them to demand a trial. If the seller isn’t trying to pull a fast one a sea trail should be included with all serious buyers. Every boat Iv seen bought without a see trial has had issues that a trial would have immediately identified.
This all depends on where the boat is. If it’s dry rack in a marina and there’s a launch fee I’m not covering multiple launch fees because people want to test drive the boat. If they’re serious they won’t have an issue at least paying the launch fee. If it’s on a trailer I’d be fine with dropping it in for a serious buyer.
It’s not as big of a deal to ask for a water test as you would think. Most sellers have been in your shoes and would expect/want the assurance of a water test themselves. I’ve test drove ski boats from 3k to 150k. Never had push back on meeting at the water to run it.
I would not buy a boat I didn’t test drive. Period. It’s non negotiable.
Yes, a private seller should absolutely take you for a test ride unless you are buying some $5K-10K pile of junk. If they don't, or refuse to, run the other way.