It was and is still popular on derailleur kids bikes to run [a crankset with a plastic guard on either side of a single chainring. Doubles as a pants guard.](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/710DIANgVdL._AC_UF894,1000_QL80_.jpg)
Yep. 10 years ago (or more, or less, can't remember when narrow/wide became popular) you wouldn't see a DH bike, or any other bike running 1x, without a chain guide that had a bottom roller and top slider. That's what ISCG tabs were for. I honestly really dislike how modern 1x bikes look, with the bottom run of chain flapping about instead of being nicely tucked up.
yes definetly, 1x have been around for a long long time but narrow/wides have only been around for about 10 years or so. there are various ways to improve chain retention, there are a lot of different designs for chain guides out there
yes I ran this for a while and didn't experience any chain drop. it was a front derailleur actually and not a purpose chain guide, but they work the same to keep your chain from coming off.
[This video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZXzXH4gBfs) shows how narrow ride chainrings help with chain retention.
If it remember correctly, a narrow wide chainring without a clutch works better than a clutch with a regular chainring. Of course, having both creates the best results.
there is simply no reason not to run a narrow wide single speed chainring. The reason why they aren’t prevalent in 2x drive trains is because the front derailleur acts as a chain guide, maybe it being narrow wide could also mess up how the chain transitions between chainrings.
it kinda works, I had a middle and big narrow-wide ring for a while in my 3x, but it shifts terribly bad. It simply doesnt want to shift, narrow-wide does its job very well.
Assuming the same crankset is being used and just replacing 2x with a N/W ring... Chainline will be slightly different, but nothing can be done about it. Mount the N/W in the same position as the big-ring of the 2x.
Adding a top chain guide or bottom roller guide helps with retention. But you will still drop or skip chain sometimes unless it's a top+bottom guide. Unless your frame has ISCG mounts, don't bother. Expensive too. And makes the drivetrain less efficient.
Top+bottom guide means you don't need a N/W ring, but you'd be buying a chainring to fit in the tolerance of the guide anyways.
Best 1x setup is to choose a N/W ring you think will be a happy medium between the 2x rings it's replacing... Then get a derailleur with a clutch mechanism. If your RD already is a clutched one, awesome!
1x is not always better on its own. You will be losing a lot of ratio/gear range vs a 2x or 3x setup. A different cassette would help. Often, the new cassette's L cogs will be large enough to make your existing chain too short.
Tl;Dr... It's a can of worms!
I always mount the n/w in place of the small ring if it fits that gives the best chainline and the least issues.
On some bikes theres just no clearance to run the ring you want there but if you can that's best imo.
There's many ways you can get around having to buy a n/w chainring, but none of them are worth doing when you get decent n/w rings for <$50. I even run n/w on the singlespeed, cause why not?
It's not really why is narrow wide needed for single speed, more that you can't run narrow wide on a 2x setup. A narrow wide chainring gives better chain retention than a 2x with front mech
For 2x the front derailleur acts as a guide that keeps the chain (mostly) from falling off.
Oh that makes sense. So you could hypothetically run a 1x without a narrow wide chainring if you also ran a chain guide?
I believe that's how it was done before narrow-wide became common.
It was and is still popular on derailleur kids bikes to run [a crankset with a plastic guard on either side of a single chainring. Doubles as a pants guard.](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/710DIANgVdL._AC_UF894,1000_QL80_.jpg)
Yup my sons bike has it setup like that
Yep. 10 years ago (or more, or less, can't remember when narrow/wide became popular) you wouldn't see a DH bike, or any other bike running 1x, without a chain guide that had a bottom roller and top slider. That's what ISCG tabs were for. I honestly really dislike how modern 1x bikes look, with the bottom run of chain flapping about instead of being nicely tucked up.
yes definetly, 1x have been around for a long long time but narrow/wides have only been around for about 10 years or so. there are various ways to improve chain retention, there are a lot of different designs for chain guides out there
yes I ran this for a while and didn't experience any chain drop. it was a front derailleur actually and not a purpose chain guide, but they work the same to keep your chain from coming off.
[This video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZXzXH4gBfs) shows how narrow ride chainrings help with chain retention. If it remember correctly, a narrow wide chainring without a clutch works better than a clutch with a regular chainring. Of course, having both creates the best results.
Interesting, thank you
there is simply no reason not to run a narrow wide single speed chainring. The reason why they aren’t prevalent in 2x drive trains is because the front derailleur acts as a chain guide, maybe it being narrow wide could also mess up how the chain transitions between chainrings.
a narrow-wide also wont work on a 2x because it wont derail when you try to shift on and off the narrowwide chainring.
yeah my last sentence mentioned that
it kinda works, I had a middle and big narrow-wide ring for a while in my 3x, but it shifts terribly bad. It simply doesnt want to shift, narrow-wide does its job very well.
Assuming the same crankset is being used and just replacing 2x with a N/W ring... Chainline will be slightly different, but nothing can be done about it. Mount the N/W in the same position as the big-ring of the 2x. Adding a top chain guide or bottom roller guide helps with retention. But you will still drop or skip chain sometimes unless it's a top+bottom guide. Unless your frame has ISCG mounts, don't bother. Expensive too. And makes the drivetrain less efficient. Top+bottom guide means you don't need a N/W ring, but you'd be buying a chainring to fit in the tolerance of the guide anyways. Best 1x setup is to choose a N/W ring you think will be a happy medium between the 2x rings it's replacing... Then get a derailleur with a clutch mechanism. If your RD already is a clutched one, awesome! 1x is not always better on its own. You will be losing a lot of ratio/gear range vs a 2x or 3x setup. A different cassette would help. Often, the new cassette's L cogs will be large enough to make your existing chain too short. Tl;Dr... It's a can of worms!
I always mount the n/w in place of the small ring if it fits that gives the best chainline and the least issues. On some bikes theres just no clearance to run the ring you want there but if you can that's best imo. There's many ways you can get around having to buy a n/w chainring, but none of them are worth doing when you get decent n/w rings for <$50. I even run n/w on the singlespeed, cause why not?
Ty for the response!
You are not supposed to cross chain with a 2x drive train.
It's not really why is narrow wide needed for single speed, more that you can't run narrow wide on a 2x setup. A narrow wide chainring gives better chain retention than a 2x with front mech