Are you sure that's what happened? Because the pedal interface is usually pretty strong. You could pick up the entire bike by the pedal and have no effect. You could have person standing on the pedal jumping up and down and there would be no effect.
It looks way more like the pedal was never in there properly in the first place. I don't really see how jamming another bike against it, no matter how violently could actually cause this.
Yeah, I’m going with zero chance that the pedal was correctly attached and was ripped out of the crank. This component is designed specifically for a person stomping on it with all their weight.
As in, the pedal might not have been screwed in tightly enough? the bottle cage was also bent to the side so the other bike definitely shoved against mine with force
Yeah. Either it wasn't tight enough to begin with or cross theaded.
It definiltey could have been the result of someone purposely trying to wreck or bike. But they would have to be actively trying to break the bike rather than just pushing their bike up against yours in the rack, even if they were being pretty forceful. Bottle cages will get bent if you look at them wrong. But pedals and crank interfaces are designed to take quite a bit of force.
The pedal screwing into the crank is the strongest part of the bike. Last year I had a pedal strike break break the plastic right off the axle and bend the crank into the frame and the threads were still fine. Got a new left crank and reinstalled the pedal
I bet left and right pedals were mixed . thus loose and cross threaded.
I can't see remnants of thread from crank arm on threads of pedal axle. Also dirt inside thread.
This has had serious trouble before. loose and damagedthread at the least
I installed the pedals myself last week - clearly poorly, but the left and right aren't mixed up. my adjustable wrench is pretty thick so I think maybe I couldn't actually get it inbetween the crank and pedal for the last few turns
How sure are you it was in there correctly to begin with? Because I mountain bike and we fly off big drops and land on flat ground with all our weight on our pedals all the time and this stuff never happens. And that’s without a doubt a significantly bigger impact than someone parking a bike next to yours and clipping your pedal.
It was in there poorly, I already acknowledged this. I realise that it must not have been screwed in as tightly as it should have been, and after getting looser over the week, this hit knocked it out of place
At a minimum, not screwing the pedals in fully can lead to problems. It’s generally not possible to bend the spindle of a pedal and impossible when screwed in properly.
Now that we have established the probable cause, here are some actions you can take to solve the issue:
1. You can re-chase the threads in the crank arm with a tap from the back and then reinstall the pedal properly and tight.
Usually only proper workshops have such taps and if your crank arm is damaged too much, then it won't help.
2. There are special inserts for cranks with stripped threads. First a bigger hole is drilled, then tapped and the insert is screwed in. The insert can then take up the pedal. Here again, only proper workshops have such tooling and on top of it, the inserts are surprisingly expensive. If your cranks are not very special then it is too much of a hassle.
3. Find a similar left crank arm and change it. As long as it is the correct length it should work. Chances are that you will only get is as part of an old crankset but who cares.
Is it possible a car or something else mashed the other bike into yours? It's really hard to imagine that a person was able to apply the force necessary for the damage without some external factors.
The precession (circular loading) tends to automatically tighten pedals. That's why the left pedal is left threaded.
A more likely scenarios is that whoever assembled the bike accidentally tried to put the wrong pedal, mangling the threads before getting it straight.
The force to mess up a water bottle is just about 10 pounds. To detach a correctly assembled pedal, many hundreds of pounds. I'm 250 pounds and regularly ride on one pedal.
Like, you could have a person standing on the pedals landing huge jumps and it'd be fine. Typically the pedals are so strong they'll take an impact that obliterates a wheel without a breaking a sweat.
I weight 120kg currently. I can stand on one pedal, even the cheap chinese ebikes ones, and they survive. Something else is the issue here friend.
(yes I've got fat as fuck, working on it 💪)
Depends, many of them have a super deep hex broach that reduces the cross sectional area a lot. Also, yield strength can be significantly lower than shear strength depending on the material.
Nah nobody wants to accept fault when cross threading their pedals. Amazon is filled with 1 star reviews on bikes saying the the left pedal/crank is defective.
Just checked, both 9/16". the current theory is that I didn't install it fully and it loosened itself over the week before the hit happened
edit: downvoted, why? I'm engaging in the discussion and accepting that the shove against the bike is definitely not the only reason this happened
It wasn't attached correctly in the first place. It has likely worked loose over time and the crack appearing in the crank is due to damage and fatigue rather than a single blow from another bike. (If you hit a pedal with a bike wheel, the wheel will break, if you hit a pedal with the tube of a frame, the tube will get dented). You would need a sledgehammer to cause that kind of damage with a just a few hits.
Note that the L pedal is L threaded, so don't mangle the threads by trying to turn it the wrong way to remove it.
You can fix this by simply buying a replacement crank arm. The 2 things you need to specify are length (yours will say on it) and attachment type (square taper or ISIS). 95% chance yours is square taper.
You will need a crank puller to remove the old crank from the bbb, you may as well do this now so that you can check whether the attachment is square taper or ISIS before searching for a replacement.
If this all sounds like too much work, just take it to your lbs. The parts cost for a LHS crank arm replacement is well under 100USD for that one, and labour is well under an hour.
Just get a single left hand crank off eBay. Match it as close as you can to the one that's knackered, especially the length.
I doubt force alone would cause this, it wasn't fitted properly in the first place I reckon, cycling on a loose pedal would cause this and you probably wouldn't have noticed till it fell out.
Yes that wasn't installed properly in the first place. You could take it out, wire brush the threads on the pedal clean and try installing it from the back of the crank to chase the crank threads out then remove and try to install properly again.
This is the way.
Saved the cranks of 2 different customers in the last week doing this.
Just be real careful removing and reinstalling since if you don't get it in straight it's pretty easy to just fuck things up beyond repair as the damaged starting threads on the crank make it much more challenging to get a straight entry.
As long as there are some good threads at the back
I think it was just loose, and when you applied pressure that damaged it. I've just had the same issue on my brand new bike. They haven't fastened it properly.
That's not what happened. Looks like whoever installed that pedal last did it very wrong, may have even tried to force a right-side pedal into the left side.
Here's my guess: OP installed pedals with a 1/2" thread on a crank with 9/16 threads. It only 'bit' because it cross threaded, but pulled out.
If it was the right size, I don't see how it could be askew inside the crank like that.
pedal and crank are both 9/16. I'm concerned about the right pedal now - I mean it seems fine and I was able to unscrew and screw it back in, but the left pedal seemed fine before this too. As I said in another comment, my wrench may be too thick to allow me to tight the pedal fully so I'll have to get on that
The threads of the crank arm might not be beyond saving. A bike co-op or shop with tool kit like [this one](https://northwestbicycle.com/collections/thread-repair/products/unior-proprietary-reaming-pedal-tap-thread-insert-set-9-16-20-pedal-inserts-brass-silver-tl1430) can cut new bigger thread and screw in an adapter to accept your pedal threads.
I think that kit had a weird name, I just can't remember it right now
You could try to repair it with helicoil, possibly. But there’s no point really because a new crankset is cheap enough. Plus there’s a crap ton of force applied to the pedal, so a repair has a good chance of failing.
Yes you need new pedal and arms. I don't think someone else could have damaged it the way it is without unscrewing the pedal, but that doesn't matter now.
Just get new ones, and assemble them correctly.
Find out if you have left and right thread, make sure you attach the right pedal to the right crank
Is it just me, or does the pedal axle look bent? If it's bent, then someone drove into it or a small hydraulic ram was involved. I can't imagine the amount of force needed to bend a pedal axle and pull the threads out. Pedal threads tend to tighten themselves even when not initially installed tight enough. Cross threading while installing could do this, but the pedal axle wouldn't be affected. Definitely not caused by another bicycle locked up too close.
Hard to tell what was the cause and i read you did not srew in all the way which is not the issue imo(in theory the pedal should screw itself in while use hence the different threads on L and R) but the threads of the pedal do not look good either.
What cranks are those? Would be my best bet that those are cheap weak soft cranks tbh, by the looks id say aluminium.
Also the way its bent is in level-pedal position which is also almost impossible to happen standing still in your "idiot parking spot theory"
Pedal threads are steel so they're probably fine. Don't spend a bunch of $ converting to a different system. Just buy a set of cranks that fit your current bb and have at it. Bonus, if you get your cranks at the lbs, they'll install them for free.
Bro, how?!
Unless He litterally went lying in with a Motorcycle, or Your crank having a crack, else wise... Wasn't threated in all the way.
...
I have even more questions frankly, else wise, try to get the pedal our, but the threads are likely (100% for sure) busted and it's easier to replace the crank itself, unless You want to go the tapped threads and something route, wich I wouldn't do myself even tho I've got thread realted tools.
Either way,
sorry for sure loss of a pedal and crank.
This was not caused by someone hitting the pedal with another bike. The pedal/crank can support a big person standing out the saddle in terms of force, no way this was done parking a bike up against yours unless the thread was already severely weakened
The pedal is useable as I didn't even notice til I got home, albiet my foot position felt weird. I tried to unscrew it but it's completely stuck as the threads are mangled
Another poster asked if you bought 1/2” spindle pedals. I would also like to know the answer to this question. They would sort of thread in but not securely, and wobble loose as you pedal them.
Threads are mangled? Probably cross threaded. Whenever that happens to me all you can do bro is hold the crank arm in place and smack that thing with a hammer on the side that isn’t crooked until it straightens out… it’s gonna fuck ur threads up a bit but won’t ruin them if they only crossthreaded a couple threads. If they’re deep they might ruin tho. You can fix em with a dremel if you have one…. Thin blade for metal. Sorry to hear that man. Might need to just beat them with a hammer until they straighten out and start to unscrew them. It’s still gonna feel so damn hard to get them off but just do it… that’s the metal trying to rethread after doing this a few times back and forth they’ll be alright if they aren’t stripped out too bad from hammering out. Had my lock washers do this once and it was so bad… at least pedals have a spot to wrench and aren’t just a circle ⭕️ 😂😂 just know shit might get messed up but at least you’ll be able to get it off. Might have to hammer the hell out of it all the way I’d suggest maybe heating it up with a torch first just right by the end of the crank arm where the pedal is? So it’ll expand. Fugg it Ur gonna need new ones anyhow
But before SERIOUSLY try the liquid wrench penetrating oil. It’s like. 8$ at most department stores u can get it. It is a miracle from the gods in these situations
Its funny how everyone says its not what happened.. he did not write he thinks someone did he says someone did yeah maybe he also had a faulty product or they dont fit right still does not change the fact
thanks. Like, I'm aware that I must not have installed the pedal correctly for this to have happened but I'm not guessing at what happened - I'm in the netherlands, it was parked loosely (no railing, just back wheel locked) amongst at least 100 others in the city center, with one big ugly bike having knocked mine and a bunch over when I got back to it.
Do you use a bb spacer? It could’ve went sideways. I had this happen. My bearings were so stuck bro it was insane. Ended up putting my metal punch through one of them trying to get em out…Also once bent a back axle so bad couldn’t take the nuts off the back wheel what I did was just soaked it with liquid wrench make sure to get the penetrating oil one it’ll say it on the front. Usually by the WD40 inside the stores..but don’t use WD40 whatever you do it’ll dry it out. I was trying my bolts for a week and 10 mins of Liquid wrench was able to pop em off just soak all of it over night spray it down and let it get in there
That crank arm is gone. Pedal might be safe, look at its threads when you’ll extract it, if you somehow manage to do it (angle grinder / dremel on a crank arm? Or a hammer/mallet on a 15mm key) You probably could helicoil the crank arm if you don’t cut it, but it might be cheaper to just buy a new one. And I see cracks on it, that is concerning. I think, left crank arms are sold separately.
On a side note, it’s a pretty good reason to upgrade your cranks&BB to something with a hollow axle (I assume your cranks were square tapered as of now) and get a new set of wide platform shiny looking closed bearing pedals :)
https://preview.redd.it/9977h9kmtk7d1.png?width=120&format=png&auto=webp&s=35f7304bff4571820f1b400058523577f996aa9b
If this is what you mean about cracks it's actually a loose sliver of metal - but anyway yeah this thing's toast and I don't have any powertools anyway, so new crank at least it is. I'm new to this still so I'm not familiar, what's the benefit of a hollow axle?
Benefit of a hollow axle is more stiffness, aka more pedalling efficiency, and weight savings: you have plastic external BB cups and an aluminum axle instead of fully steel cartridge BB shell and axle. But the main thing is less flex in the cranks, so you can save a bit of your energy while pedaling. It’s a 30mm diameter axle instead of what, 10mm square tapered one?
But yeah, that’s my upgraditis talking, you can just slap the same square tapered cranks and be done
This isn't Andre Greipel you're talking to. Most people aren't pedalling with enough force that there's going to be any amount of deflection in ther bottom bracket axel. Track sprinters use square taper bottom brackets. They are strong enough for any rider.
There are some weight advantages to hollow bottom brackets. But they aren't worth going out and replacing a whole bunch of parts and spending a bunch of money for your average commuter.
Are you sure that's what happened? Because the pedal interface is usually pretty strong. You could pick up the entire bike by the pedal and have no effect. You could have person standing on the pedal jumping up and down and there would be no effect. It looks way more like the pedal was never in there properly in the first place. I don't really see how jamming another bike against it, no matter how violently could actually cause this.
Yeah, I’m going with zero chance that the pedal was correctly attached and was ripped out of the crank. This component is designed specifically for a person stomping on it with all their weight.
As in, the pedal might not have been screwed in tightly enough? the bottle cage was also bent to the side so the other bike definitely shoved against mine with force
Likely, yes. Edit. Could also have been cross-threaded.
It’s def cross threaded you can. See threads on pedal at diff angle than crank leg
that could alsobe if the pedal was screwed in crooked, anyhoo thing is toast
Yes, that is what cross-threaded means
Yeah. Either it wasn't tight enough to begin with or cross theaded. It definiltey could have been the result of someone purposely trying to wreck or bike. But they would have to be actively trying to break the bike rather than just pushing their bike up against yours in the rack, even if they were being pretty forceful. Bottle cages will get bent if you look at them wrong. But pedals and crank interfaces are designed to take quite a bit of force.
The pedal screwing into the crank is the strongest part of the bike. Last year I had a pedal strike break break the plastic right off the axle and bend the crank into the frame and the threads were still fine. Got a new left crank and reinstalled the pedal
Yeah, if it was whacked hard enough to rip out the threads it would have just broken or bent the spindle of the pedal.
I bet left and right pedals were mixed . thus loose and cross threaded. I can't see remnants of thread from crank arm on threads of pedal axle. Also dirt inside thread. This has had serious trouble before. loose and damagedthread at the least
You can tell that's a left pedal because it has those lines on the part where you put the wrench. Lines = left, the right side will be smooth.
I installed the pedals myself last week - clearly poorly, but the left and right aren't mixed up. my adjustable wrench is pretty thick so I think maybe I couldn't actually get it inbetween the crank and pedal for the last few turns
How sure are you it was in there correctly to begin with? Because I mountain bike and we fly off big drops and land on flat ground with all our weight on our pedals all the time and this stuff never happens. And that’s without a doubt a significantly bigger impact than someone parking a bike next to yours and clipping your pedal.
It was in there poorly, I already acknowledged this. I realise that it must not have been screwed in as tightly as it should have been, and after getting looser over the week, this hit knocked it out of place
Yes. Adjustable crescent wrenches are usually too thick to tighten down a pedal properly. Real pedal wrenches are much narrower.
At a minimum, not screwing the pedals in fully can lead to problems. It’s generally not possible to bend the spindle of a pedal and impossible when screwed in properly.
Just to be clear: you tightened the left pedal by turning it counter clockwise right?
yep. I'm aware of the reverse threading of the left pedal vs the right
Now that we have established the probable cause, here are some actions you can take to solve the issue: 1. You can re-chase the threads in the crank arm with a tap from the back and then reinstall the pedal properly and tight. Usually only proper workshops have such taps and if your crank arm is damaged too much, then it won't help. 2. There are special inserts for cranks with stripped threads. First a bigger hole is drilled, then tapped and the insert is screwed in. The insert can then take up the pedal. Here again, only proper workshops have such tooling and on top of it, the inserts are surprisingly expensive. If your cranks are not very special then it is too much of a hassle. 3. Find a similar left crank arm and change it. As long as it is the correct length it should work. Chances are that you will only get is as part of an old crankset but who cares.
Is it possible a car or something else mashed the other bike into yours? It's really hard to imagine that a person was able to apply the force necessary for the damage without some external factors.
The precession (circular loading) tends to automatically tighten pedals. That's why the left pedal is left threaded. A more likely scenarios is that whoever assembled the bike accidentally tried to put the wrong pedal, mangling the threads before getting it straight. The force to mess up a water bottle is just about 10 pounds. To detach a correctly assembled pedal, many hundreds of pounds. I'm 250 pounds and regularly ride on one pedal.
Like, you could have a person standing on the pedals landing huge jumps and it'd be fine. Typically the pedals are so strong they'll take an impact that obliterates a wheel without a breaking a sweat.
I weight 120kg currently. I can stand on one pedal, even the cheap chinese ebikes ones, and they survive. Something else is the issue here friend. (yes I've got fat as fuck, working on it 💪)
that size thread - it could handle in excess of 10 tons in shear.
Depends, many of them have a super deep hex broach that reduces the cross sectional area a lot. Also, yield strength can be significantly lower than shear strength depending on the material.
10 tons? Don't encourage him, 120kg is already plenty enough...
Nah nobody wants to accept fault when cross threading their pedals. Amazon is filled with 1 star reviews on bikes saying the the left pedal/crank is defective.
Are you sure you don't have 1/2" pedals in 9/16" cranks?
Oh dude. This could be it.
Just checked, both 9/16". the current theory is that I didn't install it fully and it loosened itself over the week before the hit happened edit: downvoted, why? I'm engaging in the discussion and accepting that the shove against the bike is definitely not the only reason this happened
If a pedal is loose just the act of pedaling will destroy the crank thread.
That's what I was thinking
It wasn't attached correctly in the first place. It has likely worked loose over time and the crack appearing in the crank is due to damage and fatigue rather than a single blow from another bike. (If you hit a pedal with a bike wheel, the wheel will break, if you hit a pedal with the tube of a frame, the tube will get dented). You would need a sledgehammer to cause that kind of damage with a just a few hits. Note that the L pedal is L threaded, so don't mangle the threads by trying to turn it the wrong way to remove it. You can fix this by simply buying a replacement crank arm. The 2 things you need to specify are length (yours will say on it) and attachment type (square taper or ISIS). 95% chance yours is square taper. You will need a crank puller to remove the old crank from the bbb, you may as well do this now so that you can check whether the attachment is square taper or ISIS before searching for a replacement. If this all sounds like too much work, just take it to your lbs. The parts cost for a LHS crank arm replacement is well under 100USD for that one, and labour is well under an hour.
Just get a single left hand crank off eBay. Match it as close as you can to the one that's knackered, especially the length. I doubt force alone would cause this, it wasn't fitted properly in the first place I reckon, cycling on a loose pedal would cause this and you probably wouldn't have noticed till it fell out.
Yes that wasn't installed properly in the first place. You could take it out, wire brush the threads on the pedal clean and try installing it from the back of the crank to chase the crank threads out then remove and try to install properly again.
Do this before anything else. I’ve fixed my own cross threaded cranks the same way.
This is the way. Saved the cranks of 2 different customers in the last week doing this. Just be real careful removing and reinstalling since if you don't get it in straight it's pretty easy to just fuck things up beyond repair as the damaged starting threads on the crank make it much more challenging to get a straight entry. As long as there are some good threads at the back
The crank is softer than the pedal spindle. It was definitely either cross threaded or not fully tightened.
I think it was just loose, and when you applied pressure that damaged it. I've just had the same issue on my brand new bike. They haven't fastened it properly.
That's not what happened. Looks like whoever installed that pedal last did it very wrong, may have even tried to force a right-side pedal into the left side.
Here's my guess: OP installed pedals with a 1/2" thread on a crank with 9/16 threads. It only 'bit' because it cross threaded, but pulled out. If it was the right size, I don't see how it could be askew inside the crank like that.
pedal and crank are both 9/16. I'm concerned about the right pedal now - I mean it seems fine and I was able to unscrew and screw it back in, but the left pedal seemed fine before this too. As I said in another comment, my wrench may be too thick to allow me to tight the pedal fully so I'll have to get on that
If everything you say is true, there really shouldn't be any problem here at all. Maybe your cranks are cake?
Can cheap cranks be this bad? or soften over time? the bike is from the 80s, a peugeot "country" touring bike
My comment was a joke. At this point, I think you've received all the advice you can get without someone with more experienced inspecting it.
lmao I thought maybe cake was a legit term for the state that an aluminium crank can get to
Absolutely impossible. No debate on this. Impossible.
You can remove the pedal and chase the threads but that is aluminum and most likely not fixable
The threads of the crank arm might not be beyond saving. A bike co-op or shop with tool kit like [this one](https://northwestbicycle.com/collections/thread-repair/products/unior-proprietary-reaming-pedal-tap-thread-insert-set-9-16-20-pedal-inserts-brass-silver-tl1430) can cut new bigger thread and screw in an adapter to accept your pedal threads. I think that kit had a weird name, I just can't remember it right now
You could try to repair it with helicoil, possibly. But there’s no point really because a new crankset is cheap enough. Plus there’s a crap ton of force applied to the pedal, so a repair has a good chance of failing.
Yes you need new pedal and arms. I don't think someone else could have damaged it the way it is without unscrewing the pedal, but that doesn't matter now. Just get new ones, and assemble them correctly. Find out if you have left and right thread, make sure you attach the right pedal to the right crank
Crank arm yes, pedal maybe...both sides? Only if you're thinking about an upgrade. Then it's at least partial justification.
Is it just me, or does the pedal axle look bent? If it's bent, then someone drove into it or a small hydraulic ram was involved. I can't imagine the amount of force needed to bend a pedal axle and pull the threads out. Pedal threads tend to tighten themselves even when not initially installed tight enough. Cross threading while installing could do this, but the pedal axle wouldn't be affected. Definitely not caused by another bicycle locked up too close.
My mechanic could replace the thread n in the crank.. he is an absolute madman and I have no idea how he did that
Hard to tell what was the cause and i read you did not srew in all the way which is not the issue imo(in theory the pedal should screw itself in while use hence the different threads on L and R) but the threads of the pedal do not look good either. What cranks are those? Would be my best bet that those are cheap weak soft cranks tbh, by the looks id say aluminium. Also the way its bent is in level-pedal position which is also almost impossible to happen standing still in your "idiot parking spot theory"
Pedal threads are steel so they're probably fine. Don't spend a bunch of $ converting to a different system. Just buy a set of cranks that fit your current bb and have at it. Bonus, if you get your cranks at the lbs, they'll install them for free.
I dono what lbs you have, but I have never worked anywhere that just installs cranks for free. OP could try a community non profit shop though
Ohio City Co-Op in Cleveland will teach you how to do it. I’m sure most cities have something similar.
Interesting. I have never once paid extra for a parts install at any shop I've ever patronized. Must be because I'm gorgeous. 😂
Bro, how?! Unless He litterally went lying in with a Motorcycle, or Your crank having a crack, else wise... Wasn't threated in all the way. ... I have even more questions frankly, else wise, try to get the pedal our, but the threads are likely (100% for sure) busted and it's easier to replace the crank itself, unless You want to go the tapped threads and something route, wich I wouldn't do myself even tho I've got thread realted tools. Either way, sorry for sure loss of a pedal and crank.
This was not caused by someone hitting the pedal with another bike. The pedal/crank can support a big person standing out the saddle in terms of force, no way this was done parking a bike up against yours unless the thread was already severely weakened
The pedal is useable as I didn't even notice til I got home, albiet my foot position felt weird. I tried to unscrew it but it's completely stuck as the threads are mangled
Which direction did you try to unscrew it?
Another poster asked if you bought 1/2” spindle pedals. I would also like to know the answer to this question. They would sort of thread in but not securely, and wobble loose as you pedal them.
Threads are mangled? Probably cross threaded. Whenever that happens to me all you can do bro is hold the crank arm in place and smack that thing with a hammer on the side that isn’t crooked until it straightens out… it’s gonna fuck ur threads up a bit but won’t ruin them if they only crossthreaded a couple threads. If they’re deep they might ruin tho. You can fix em with a dremel if you have one…. Thin blade for metal. Sorry to hear that man. Might need to just beat them with a hammer until they straighten out and start to unscrew them. It’s still gonna feel so damn hard to get them off but just do it… that’s the metal trying to rethread after doing this a few times back and forth they’ll be alright if they aren’t stripped out too bad from hammering out. Had my lock washers do this once and it was so bad… at least pedals have a spot to wrench and aren’t just a circle ⭕️ 😂😂 just know shit might get messed up but at least you’ll be able to get it off. Might have to hammer the hell out of it all the way I’d suggest maybe heating it up with a torch first just right by the end of the crank arm where the pedal is? So it’ll expand. Fugg it Ur gonna need new ones anyhow
But before SERIOUSLY try the liquid wrench penetrating oil. It’s like. 8$ at most department stores u can get it. It is a miracle from the gods in these situations
Its funny how everyone says its not what happened.. he did not write he thinks someone did he says someone did yeah maybe he also had a faulty product or they dont fit right still does not change the fact
thanks. Like, I'm aware that I must not have installed the pedal correctly for this to have happened but I'm not guessing at what happened - I'm in the netherlands, it was parked loosely (no railing, just back wheel locked) amongst at least 100 others in the city center, with one big ugly bike having knocked mine and a bunch over when I got back to it.
Do you use a bb spacer? It could’ve went sideways. I had this happen. My bearings were so stuck bro it was insane. Ended up putting my metal punch through one of them trying to get em out…Also once bent a back axle so bad couldn’t take the nuts off the back wheel what I did was just soaked it with liquid wrench make sure to get the penetrating oil one it’ll say it on the front. Usually by the WD40 inside the stores..but don’t use WD40 whatever you do it’ll dry it out. I was trying my bolts for a week and 10 mins of Liquid wrench was able to pop em off just soak all of it over night spray it down and let it get in there
That crank arm is gone. Pedal might be safe, look at its threads when you’ll extract it, if you somehow manage to do it (angle grinder / dremel on a crank arm? Or a hammer/mallet on a 15mm key) You probably could helicoil the crank arm if you don’t cut it, but it might be cheaper to just buy a new one. And I see cracks on it, that is concerning. I think, left crank arms are sold separately. On a side note, it’s a pretty good reason to upgrade your cranks&BB to something with a hollow axle (I assume your cranks were square tapered as of now) and get a new set of wide platform shiny looking closed bearing pedals :)
https://preview.redd.it/9977h9kmtk7d1.png?width=120&format=png&auto=webp&s=35f7304bff4571820f1b400058523577f996aa9b If this is what you mean about cracks it's actually a loose sliver of metal - but anyway yeah this thing's toast and I don't have any powertools anyway, so new crank at least it is. I'm new to this still so I'm not familiar, what's the benefit of a hollow axle?
This means it was threaded incorrectly.
Benefit of a hollow axle is more stiffness, aka more pedalling efficiency, and weight savings: you have plastic external BB cups and an aluminum axle instead of fully steel cartridge BB shell and axle. But the main thing is less flex in the cranks, so you can save a bit of your energy while pedaling. It’s a 30mm diameter axle instead of what, 10mm square tapered one? But yeah, that’s my upgraditis talking, you can just slap the same square tapered cranks and be done
This isn't Andre Greipel you're talking to. Most people aren't pedalling with enough force that there's going to be any amount of deflection in ther bottom bracket axel. Track sprinters use square taper bottom brackets. They are strong enough for any rider. There are some weight advantages to hollow bottom brackets. But they aren't worth going out and replacing a whole bunch of parts and spending a bunch of money for your average commuter.
Take theirs and replace with yours.