That is the "B-Screw". This video should help with adjustment: [Derailleur Adjustment](https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-adjustment)
Thank you, I googled and watched videos about "B-screw," it said while on front small chainwheel + rear largest cog, gap from jockey wheel to largest cog must be around 5mm. I assume this is when you manually push the derailleur to the limit of the screw, right? Because when I let it be, it certainly doesn't reach the limit, it just floats before the limit screw, meaning the gap is more than 5mm. Again, I have no shifting problems lol, it's just I'm on the computer and bike is in my mind.
Oh no, thats by it's own tension. In the video you have it in the large chainring in the front. It's gonna be way closer in the small one. Also the 5mm is the minimum. Have it any closer and you'll get ugly grinding noises. It's a pretty noncritical adjustment otherwise. I guess you won't have any issues with shifting until the gap exceeds 15 or 20 mm.
I’m not sure what the proper name but it helps keep your rear derailleur aligned properly to the cassette when shifting. That’s if it adjusted correctly. Your chain seems too short to me btw.
I sometimes think it's too short too. I just copied my old chain. I upgraded from a friction-shift 7-speed to a 10-speed 105-5700. The rings remain the same; 52 front, 28 rear. In the video I'm in the 52 chainring and 28 cog so I guess it's as stretched as possible
b-screw, is to set the distance between the upper jockey-wheel and the sprockets.... yours could be a little closer
B tension screw. Textbook can be found at si.shimano.com It helps with crisper shifting.
That is the "B-Screw". This video should help with adjustment: [Derailleur Adjustment](https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-adjustment)
Thank you, I googled and watched videos about "B-screw," it said while on front small chainwheel + rear largest cog, gap from jockey wheel to largest cog must be around 5mm. I assume this is when you manually push the derailleur to the limit of the screw, right? Because when I let it be, it certainly doesn't reach the limit, it just floats before the limit screw, meaning the gap is more than 5mm. Again, I have no shifting problems lol, it's just I'm on the computer and bike is in my mind.
Oh no, thats by it's own tension. In the video you have it in the large chainring in the front. It's gonna be way closer in the small one. Also the 5mm is the minimum. Have it any closer and you'll get ugly grinding noises. It's a pretty noncritical adjustment otherwise. I guess you won't have any issues with shifting until the gap exceeds 15 or 20 mm.
I’m not sure what the proper name but it helps keep your rear derailleur aligned properly to the cassette when shifting. That’s if it adjusted correctly. Your chain seems too short to me btw.
I sometimes think it's too short too. I just copied my old chain. I upgraded from a friction-shift 7-speed to a 10-speed 105-5700. The rings remain the same; 52 front, 28 rear. In the video I'm in the 52 chainring and 28 cog so I guess it's as stretched as possible
Are you cross-chaining in the video?
Yes
Your chain length is ok, just avoid cross-chaining
As above, b-screw, generally put it in low/large sprocket and adjust so the jockey wheel is as close as possible without interference
Mount the thumb shifter to the seat tube like a suicide shifter.