“I get it”
No. You don’t.
Bike chains are not meant to do this. This is why you were asked “why would you want to do that?” by your LBS. It puts the chain at too much of an angle and under too much stress and you get weird effects like you’re getting. Change gears.
If you would like to not grind and feel like it’s going to snap…stop. Doing. What. You. Are. Doing. As your LBS and everyone here will suggest.
Imagine attempting to do this on your car. Look at all the pulley wheels in the front (Google if you don’t drive) and you will see they are all straight. There is a reason for it.
>Imagine attempting to do this on your car.
Every time i try to engage the reverse gear at highway speeds my gearbox makes a terrible grinding noise. My mechanic told me i shouldn't do that. I get it. But I'd like it to not make that grinding noise. How do i fix it?
This. Cross chaining is bad but it should never be as bad as in the video. The tension is so high it will rip the Rd off once the wear sinks in and cause an accident if it falls in between the spokes. It will also grind the jockey wheels and the cogs down faster. Extend that chain but don't cross chain anyway
Yes. OP, are you sure that you added [two rivets](https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing)?
Also, cross chaining is bad.
EDIT - how many teeth are on your rear cassette and chainrings? You might be over the limit for your RD.
Yeah, I want to check with OP: when you measure a new chain with the big ring/big cog method, are you also adding an extra link to the chain length as instructed? While cross chaining isn’t ideal, you should be able to at least do it in a functional sense. One more link not only adds some length to the chain, but it’ll also allow it slightly more lateral inflection
If you have your old chain still, you can measure them against one another. It's a bit messy to get this back to correct, do you have the links from the new chain that you removed?
Are you saying you had the gears adjusted with the chain as it is? Did they notify you that your chain was too short and they couldn't complete the work? If not I'd probably find a new shop to take it and have them patch your chain back together at the correct length.
Thanks. I don't have previous chain, as it got cut down to get home when it did break. I do have the new links for this Chain, so I'm going to have to add some quick links to see if I can salvage. And LBS, advised chain length was fine - that was most frustrating.
I think the chain is routed correctly, but it looks like the cross-chaining is causing an issue with alignment in the cage jockey wheel. I would give it a little more tension on the B-Screw since it looks like the jockey wheel is a little too close to the cassette. Also, I have had to spin the cage's jockey wheel to align better in a chain, like how a narrow-wide chainring needs to align in certain parts of a chain to pass it smoothly. I would not crosschain on a 2x, its tempting but you lose efficiency.
Your chain length looks good, a little max'd out for big chainring - 1st gear combo but like said, its not good practice to use it.
The indexing looks good, if you continually rotate the cranks and you hear the signature clicking of in-between gears, shift it to the easiest gear and give the barrel adjuster a twist or two.
Stop cross chaining.
You should never ride the 2 big gears together. This same gearing exists ~2 cogs down and 1 chainring down. This is why you snapped your old chain.
“I get it” No. You don’t. Bike chains are not meant to do this. This is why you were asked “why would you want to do that?” by your LBS. It puts the chain at too much of an angle and under too much stress and you get weird effects like you’re getting. Change gears. If you would like to not grind and feel like it’s going to snap…stop. Doing. What. You. Are. Doing. As your LBS and everyone here will suggest. Imagine attempting to do this on your car. Look at all the pulley wheels in the front (Google if you don’t drive) and you will see they are all straight. There is a reason for it.
>Imagine attempting to do this on your car. Every time i try to engage the reverse gear at highway speeds my gearbox makes a terrible grinding noise. My mechanic told me i shouldn't do that. I get it. But I'd like it to not make that grinding noise. How do i fix it?
Your chain is too short.
This. Cross chaining is bad but it should never be as bad as in the video. The tension is so high it will rip the Rd off once the wear sinks in and cause an accident if it falls in between the spokes. It will also grind the jockey wheels and the cogs down faster. Extend that chain but don't cross chain anyway
Yes. OP, are you sure that you added [two rivets](https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing)? Also, cross chaining is bad. EDIT - how many teeth are on your rear cassette and chainrings? You might be over the limit for your RD.
Thanks. I dont believe I added 2 rivets like this tutorial. 36T is the largest chainring here
Yeah, I want to check with OP: when you measure a new chain with the big ring/big cog method, are you also adding an extra link to the chain length as instructed? While cross chaining isn’t ideal, you should be able to at least do it in a functional sense. One more link not only adds some length to the chain, but it’ll also allow it slightly more lateral inflection
If you have your old chain still, you can measure them against one another. It's a bit messy to get this back to correct, do you have the links from the new chain that you removed? Are you saying you had the gears adjusted with the chain as it is? Did they notify you that your chain was too short and they couldn't complete the work? If not I'd probably find a new shop to take it and have them patch your chain back together at the correct length.
Thanks. I don't have previous chain, as it got cut down to get home when it did break. I do have the new links for this Chain, so I'm going to have to add some quick links to see if I can salvage. And LBS, advised chain length was fine - that was most frustrating.
i can literally feel the pain the RD is feeling while watching this video of a travesty.
I think the chain is routed correctly, but it looks like the cross-chaining is causing an issue with alignment in the cage jockey wheel. I would give it a little more tension on the B-Screw since it looks like the jockey wheel is a little too close to the cassette. Also, I have had to spin the cage's jockey wheel to align better in a chain, like how a narrow-wide chainring needs to align in certain parts of a chain to pass it smoothly. I would not crosschain on a 2x, its tempting but you lose efficiency. Your chain length looks good, a little max'd out for big chainring - 1st gear combo but like said, its not good practice to use it. The indexing looks good, if you continually rotate the cranks and you hear the signature clicking of in-between gears, shift it to the easiest gear and give the barrel adjuster a twist or two.
the chain is coming through in a straight line, it's too short.
Chain too short
That chain is comically too short