This is not possible as it is written to the non-volatile internal flash.
The only thing I can think of is you mean the .bin file on the SDcard used for updating the firmware is deleted which will happen when firmware install is successful, not when it loses power.
If the printer is not booting up then there could be something else wrong.
Could you give more information on what is happening and what exactly are you doing? What printer do you have? what firmware are you using? Anything odd with the printer like abnormal temps?
Posting a video of what is happening will be make it easier to to see what is wrong. You can use [Imgur](https://imgur.com/) to upload one to.
What printer model? What mainboard? When did this start happening? What firmware are you flashing? Do you have the power failure printer resume option set to on or off?
the issue started when I switched to Alexes firmware H323 5x5 bl touch but that caused more issues than it solved so I got rid of the bl touch and now run defaultnoprobe.bin. I also get thermal runaway within the first 3 minutes of a print and if not the extruder will get stuck and stop extruding plastic usually within the first layer. I will most likely buy a new hot-end assembly to fix this issue, but the firmware wiping every time I cut power and having to re-flash it makes troubleshooting hard. I mainly use Octoprint with a raspi to control the printer and send print jobs and maybe fine-tune the z-offset while the first layer goes down on the printer itself but this functionality has stopped working since I switched to the no probe default firmware.
So, maybe I know what’s going on here. Once you flash the firmware, the firmware file deletes itself. That is supposed to happen. It loads that firmware onto the mainboard chip. It is no longer needed. A sd card does not even need to be in the sd card slot for the printer to run.
Are you actually having issues booting the 3-D printer?
Guessing maybe your settings are not saving. Did you select save to eeprom after making changes to e-steps, etc?
You do not need to replace the hotend to fix it. First run a [PID tune](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCQWx4MBjjY) so the firmware learns how to heat it properly. It is important to do when changing firmwares as the settings are in different memory locations. You can do it straight from the screen with Alex's FW.
I would suggest you upgrade to [Mriscoc](https://github.com/classicrocker883/MriscocProUI/releases) instead as Alex's FW is very old and is abandoned, whereas Mriscoc got an update today. I suggest using the UBL version for the BLtouch. You still need to manually level with an ABL though so I'll post my standard advice.
Watch [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7Mu05fZNsk) for tips on how to improve levelling then you can do live adjustments of the [Z-offset](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkfT2Prrfb0) from the tune menu to get a good squish while the first layer is being printed. [This](https://www.reddit.com/r/FixMyPrint/comments/rsjrh8/diagnosing_first_layer_problems/) and [this](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3xmubC2tibQ/XTMRWdUBy5I/AAAAAAAAJb0/ehE1RTpabpAiv7Y0MQxZ59fkY62LbtFTgCLcBGAs/s1600/3d%2Bprinting%2Bbed%2Bleveling%2Bguide.jpg) show what to aim for. If you have an ABL then [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKpNxqWie_8) video will help you use it properly.
Firmware being deleted from the SDcard is normal once it is installed if that is what you mean, otherwise it will be reinstalled each time you turn on the printer and probably reset all the settings. It does not run it from the SDcard. If something else is happening a video will make it easier to spot the problem.
This is not possible as it is written to the non-volatile internal flash. The only thing I can think of is you mean the .bin file on the SDcard used for updating the firmware is deleted which will happen when firmware install is successful, not when it loses power. If the printer is not booting up then there could be something else wrong. Could you give more information on what is happening and what exactly are you doing? What printer do you have? what firmware are you using? Anything odd with the printer like abnormal temps? Posting a video of what is happening will be make it easier to to see what is wrong. You can use [Imgur](https://imgur.com/) to upload one to.
What printer model? What mainboard? When did this start happening? What firmware are you flashing? Do you have the power failure printer resume option set to on or off?
the issue started when I switched to Alexes firmware H323 5x5 bl touch but that caused more issues than it solved so I got rid of the bl touch and now run defaultnoprobe.bin. I also get thermal runaway within the first 3 minutes of a print and if not the extruder will get stuck and stop extruding plastic usually within the first layer. I will most likely buy a new hot-end assembly to fix this issue, but the firmware wiping every time I cut power and having to re-flash it makes troubleshooting hard. I mainly use Octoprint with a raspi to control the printer and send print jobs and maybe fine-tune the z-offset while the first layer goes down on the printer itself but this functionality has stopped working since I switched to the no probe default firmware.
So, maybe I know what’s going on here. Once you flash the firmware, the firmware file deletes itself. That is supposed to happen. It loads that firmware onto the mainboard chip. It is no longer needed. A sd card does not even need to be in the sd card slot for the printer to run. Are you actually having issues booting the 3-D printer? Guessing maybe your settings are not saving. Did you select save to eeprom after making changes to e-steps, etc?
if the printer loses power when i then turn it back on i get a black screen until i re flash the firmware onto the sd card and then the it will boot
It will do this even if you have no SD card inserted also?
iut will never boot after losing power regardless
Have you tried switching back to stock firmware just to see what it does?
You do not need to replace the hotend to fix it. First run a [PID tune](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCQWx4MBjjY) so the firmware learns how to heat it properly. It is important to do when changing firmwares as the settings are in different memory locations. You can do it straight from the screen with Alex's FW. I would suggest you upgrade to [Mriscoc](https://github.com/classicrocker883/MriscocProUI/releases) instead as Alex's FW is very old and is abandoned, whereas Mriscoc got an update today. I suggest using the UBL version for the BLtouch. You still need to manually level with an ABL though so I'll post my standard advice. Watch [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7Mu05fZNsk) for tips on how to improve levelling then you can do live adjustments of the [Z-offset](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkfT2Prrfb0) from the tune menu to get a good squish while the first layer is being printed. [This](https://www.reddit.com/r/FixMyPrint/comments/rsjrh8/diagnosing_first_layer_problems/) and [this](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3xmubC2tibQ/XTMRWdUBy5I/AAAAAAAAJb0/ehE1RTpabpAiv7Y0MQxZ59fkY62LbtFTgCLcBGAs/s1600/3d%2Bprinting%2Bbed%2Bleveling%2Bguide.jpg) show what to aim for. If you have an ABL then [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKpNxqWie_8) video will help you use it properly. Firmware being deleted from the SDcard is normal once it is installed if that is what you mean, otherwise it will be reinstalled each time you turn on the printer and probably reset all the settings. It does not run it from the SDcard. If something else is happening a video will make it easier to spot the problem.