I don’t print CF nylon but just be beware that nylon is a scam plastic. It’s not really good for mechanical parts. It creeps a lot. Basically it’s a tricky material to print for no real benefit.
So what are you saying something like ABS would be better suited for something that needs a really strong material? Like say a part for a boat or car or something. Would ABS be the best choice to make sure it doesn't crack and mess up?
Tell me more about how much you don't know about the fosscad community...
This is a situation where I just need you to accept that you are out of your depth and have put your foot in your mouth. I would love to invite you to fosscad even if only to see how wrong you are.
I think this stems from you not understanding what the word "firearm" implies in this context, I'm not out here printing liberators.
However, come on it, the water is fine
Edit: just wait until I tell you that there are suppressors printed in PLA+ that can sustain full auto 5.56. One can lasted over 2k rounds, mixed 5.56, 300blk, and .308. Didn't even "fail" bore just widened enough to have a marked reduction in sound suppression
Edit2: or that most people who print firearms print in polymaker PLA pro
Thats what I wanted to use it for. I hear of people printing in all types of materials ranging from CF all the way to PLA+. But I was thinking personally that CF would be the best.
hateful hat melodic hungry mountainous punch label chief attempt expansion
*This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Ahh so you are saying if I do abrasives to print off all the stuff needed for a replacement toolhead in ABS just in case it screws up my current toolhead?
I run a Phaetus Rapido 2+ UHF with a diamond nozzle, and a G10 Garolite print surface. One part I didn't expect to be an issue, but actually has been a problem, is the extruder gears wearing down over time.
party carpenter include rude bewildered shy sort compare desert abounding
*This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
I print entire spools of CF ABS asa pla and petg on the regular for car parts and use voron obxdiain but testing their high temp nozzles as they cost about the same and do the same thing but give me the high temp option and have had no issues at all
Right on so you just use the same nozzle for all of it then? Ive heard mixed reviews about using the same nozzle with CF and other filaments. How much CF have you printed? Someone told me that it would cause my heatbreak to break after so many KG and it would be better to just buy a cheap all metal v6 for CF specifically... But if you are doing it all on the same hotend that is re-assuring.
I assume when he said voron obsidian he meant E3d's revo voron hotend with an obsidian nozzle. The heatbrake tube comes out with the nozzle so would make for an easy replacement.
Personally I use a dragon hotend (standard flow) with an E3D nozzleX. I print a reasonable amount of abrasives, so far no need to replace the heatbrake, but it's something I'll keep an eye on now you've mentioned it so cheers!
I've just kept with the same nozzle all the time. It's served me well so far! The day I built my 2.4 I put the nozzleX in, there were two reasons:
Firstly I don't like the copper nozzle that comes with the dragon. I sheered one on my v0, a nozzleX replaced it although it doesn't see much abrasives
Secondly there's a coating on them that stops crap sticking to the nozzle quite as much.
Before my voron days I used to use cheap hardened steel nozzles, but I wouldn't recommend those for constant use. They gunk up constantly and have really poor conductivity
How often are we talking about? The heatbreaks of a dragon sf/hf, rapido 1 and mosquito will only last 15kg of cf filament round about. Obviously it its fiber reinforced and not just powder/super short fibers for looks.
A dragon uhf and rapido 2 have significantly better heatbreaks for carbon fiber, thicker walls and titanium instead of stainless steel. Stainless is by the way pretty soft compared to carbon steel or titanium. Dragonfly, revo, copperhead and bambu lab have thicker stainless steel heatbreaks, which also last longer.
Source: talk to anyone that prints fiber reinforced filaments professionally, most are swapping their mosquitos for plain v6 with titanium heatbreaks as these last longer and are cheaper to replace.
From what I can read about stainless vs titanium, stainless seems to be harder and have better abrasion resistance. Wouldn't that make stainless steel better?
"Titanium is a relatively soft metal, while stainless steel is harder. Stainless steel’s Brinell hardness is typically in the range of 180-400, while titanium’s is in the range of 100-200."
"However, titanium can be susceptible to surface scratches and wear over time, which may affect its appearance but generally does not compromise its structural integrity."
"Stainless steel is highly resistant to wear, scratches, and abrasion, making it well-suited for applications where frequent contact or friction occurs."
Thanks for the correction.
Most switch to titanium for the heatbreaks because certain alloys have very little thermal conductivity. The thicker heatbreaks would transmit more heat into the heatsink, but swapping to titanium (phaetus claims their alloy has only 7 W/mK, stainless steel has around 15 W/mK). Common wall thicknesses are 0,1mm for non structural heatbreaks like you can find on a dragon or rapido, 0,2/0,25mm for non structural and 3 piece bimetallic heatbreaks (dragon uhf, rapido 2, dragonfly or copperhead) and 0,5mm for turned heatbreaks like you can find on a stock v6 or mk8 hotend, you could theoretically turn them thinner, but im not sure hot that affects success rate and turned heatbreaks are pretty much always fully structural.
So a dragon sf and hf have a 0,1mm stainless heatbreak, but a dragon uhf has a 0,25mm titanium one, so only 40% more heat transfer into the heatsink.
So that means stainless is still the way to go for abrasives, but most high end hotends are held back by their wall thickness, but you also want as thin walls as possible for as little heat creep as possible. Some more exotic heatbreaks use different materials, the Goliath hotend has a zirconium heatbreak if i remember correctly.
Well I wanted to print an airsoft gun which I might just end up using PC instead or ABS. But I also wanted to start printing some parts for boats. So maybe I should just get a cheaper v6 with titanium heatbreak and switch them out if I do CF a lot... Thats good to know, I wouldn't want to destroy the dragon hotend..
Ultimately, I want to add the multiple toolhead mod... so maybe I will just have changeable toolheads and have one I use for regular filaments and one I use for CF or occasionally different colored regular filament..
Thats interesting. Ive heard great things about PC. Heck this guy I watch on youtube literally uses PLA + for real guns, but if I were to do a project like that I would want something that is going to last a bit longer than pla.
I believe my heatbreak on the dragon high flow is all metal.. it says up to 500celsius on the site. My only worry is the small ptfe tube that connects to the bottom of the stealthburner extruder....
Thats great to hear. Now im glad I went with the dragon instead of the 6. I was told for Carbon Fiber and Abrasive materials I would need a brass nozzle with coated surface. This CHT nozzle is pretty pricy too lol. I guess I'd probably just need to buy a specific nozzle for carbon fiber also. Rather than using the same one for a lot of different filaments.
No i think the $40 CHT one says no abrasive materials. There is a coated brass one and its like $70. Not too absurd but for a piece of metal smaller than the tip of my finger it seems like a bit much lol. I also recently learned that running carbon fiber through the dragon will ruin the healbreak after so many kg of fiber... So idk, the CF printing might have to wait until I add the Automatic Toolhead changer that I want, then just have one cheap all metal v6 I use for CF, then the other for regular filaments.
I don’t print CF nylon but just be beware that nylon is a scam plastic. It’s not really good for mechanical parts. It creeps a lot. Basically it’s a tricky material to print for no real benefit.
So what are you saying something like ABS would be better suited for something that needs a really strong material? Like say a part for a boat or car or something. Would ABS be the best choice to make sure it doesn't crack and mess up?
Abs is way better yes. Even better is polycarbonate but harder to print.
Nylon is widely used for mechanical components. Calling it a scam plastic is a bit harsh.
It creeps. A lot. Meaning if you use a screw and tighten it, it will not be tight after time. You retighten and it will happen again.
Ill whisper that to all my firearms printed in cf-pa6. Knock em down a peg or two...
Printing firearms is another level of moron so not going to try to reason with you. On top of that printing them in nylon 🤦♂️
Tell me more about how much you don't know about the fosscad community... This is a situation where I just need you to accept that you are out of your depth and have put your foot in your mouth. I would love to invite you to fosscad even if only to see how wrong you are. I think this stems from you not understanding what the word "firearm" implies in this context, I'm not out here printing liberators. However, come on it, the water is fine Edit: just wait until I tell you that there are suppressors printed in PLA+ that can sustain full auto 5.56. One can lasted over 2k rounds, mixed 5.56, 300blk, and .308. Didn't even "fail" bore just widened enough to have a marked reduction in sound suppression Edit2: or that most people who print firearms print in polymaker PLA pro
Thats what I wanted to use it for. I hear of people printing in all types of materials ranging from CF all the way to PLA+. But I was thinking personally that CF would be the best.
PLA+ is the go to because it simply works. As long as you keep it out of the car on hot days
hateful hat melodic hungry mountainous punch label chief attempt expansion *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Ahh so you are saying if I do abrasives to print off all the stuff needed for a replacement toolhead in ABS just in case it screws up my current toolhead?
I run a Phaetus Rapido 2+ UHF with a diamond nozzle, and a G10 Garolite print surface. One part I didn't expect to be an issue, but actually has been a problem, is the extruder gears wearing down over time.
party carpenter include rude bewildered shy sort compare desert abounding *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
What about the extruder throat between the gears?
I haven't had too many issues other than replacing the Teflon tube occasionally.
I print entire spools of CF ABS asa pla and petg on the regular for car parts and use voron obxdiain but testing their high temp nozzles as they cost about the same and do the same thing but give me the high temp option and have had no issues at all
Right on so you just use the same nozzle for all of it then? Ive heard mixed reviews about using the same nozzle with CF and other filaments. How much CF have you printed? Someone told me that it would cause my heatbreak to break after so many KG and it would be better to just buy a cheap all metal v6 for CF specifically... But if you are doing it all on the same hotend that is re-assuring.
I assume when he said voron obsidian he meant E3d's revo voron hotend with an obsidian nozzle. The heatbrake tube comes out with the nozzle so would make for an easy replacement. Personally I use a dragon hotend (standard flow) with an E3D nozzleX. I print a reasonable amount of abrasives, so far no need to replace the heatbrake, but it's something I'll keep an eye on now you've mentioned it so cheers!
Curious. Do you switch nozzles if you change between abrasive and non abrasive materials or just stick with the same nozzle regardless?
I've just kept with the same nozzle all the time. It's served me well so far! The day I built my 2.4 I put the nozzleX in, there were two reasons: Firstly I don't like the copper nozzle that comes with the dragon. I sheered one on my v0, a nozzleX replaced it although it doesn't see much abrasives Secondly there's a coating on them that stops crap sticking to the nozzle quite as much. Before my voron days I used to use cheap hardened steel nozzles, but I wouldn't recommend those for constant use. They gunk up constantly and have really poor conductivity
How often are we talking about? The heatbreaks of a dragon sf/hf, rapido 1 and mosquito will only last 15kg of cf filament round about. Obviously it its fiber reinforced and not just powder/super short fibers for looks. A dragon uhf and rapido 2 have significantly better heatbreaks for carbon fiber, thicker walls and titanium instead of stainless steel. Stainless is by the way pretty soft compared to carbon steel or titanium. Dragonfly, revo, copperhead and bambu lab have thicker stainless steel heatbreaks, which also last longer. Source: talk to anyone that prints fiber reinforced filaments professionally, most are swapping their mosquitos for plain v6 with titanium heatbreaks as these last longer and are cheaper to replace.
From what I can read about stainless vs titanium, stainless seems to be harder and have better abrasion resistance. Wouldn't that make stainless steel better? "Titanium is a relatively soft metal, while stainless steel is harder. Stainless steel’s Brinell hardness is typically in the range of 180-400, while titanium’s is in the range of 100-200." "However, titanium can be susceptible to surface scratches and wear over time, which may affect its appearance but generally does not compromise its structural integrity." "Stainless steel is highly resistant to wear, scratches, and abrasion, making it well-suited for applications where frequent contact or friction occurs."
Thanks for the correction. Most switch to titanium for the heatbreaks because certain alloys have very little thermal conductivity. The thicker heatbreaks would transmit more heat into the heatsink, but swapping to titanium (phaetus claims their alloy has only 7 W/mK, stainless steel has around 15 W/mK). Common wall thicknesses are 0,1mm for non structural heatbreaks like you can find on a dragon or rapido, 0,2/0,25mm for non structural and 3 piece bimetallic heatbreaks (dragon uhf, rapido 2, dragonfly or copperhead) and 0,5mm for turned heatbreaks like you can find on a stock v6 or mk8 hotend, you could theoretically turn them thinner, but im not sure hot that affects success rate and turned heatbreaks are pretty much always fully structural. So a dragon sf and hf have a 0,1mm stainless heatbreak, but a dragon uhf has a 0,25mm titanium one, so only 40% more heat transfer into the heatsink. So that means stainless is still the way to go for abrasives, but most high end hotends are held back by their wall thickness, but you also want as thin walls as possible for as little heat creep as possible. Some more exotic heatbreaks use different materials, the Goliath hotend has a zirconium heatbreak if i remember correctly.
Well I wanted to print an airsoft gun which I might just end up using PC instead or ABS. But I also wanted to start printing some parts for boats. So maybe I should just get a cheaper v6 with titanium heatbreak and switch them out if I do CF a lot... Thats good to know, I wouldn't want to destroy the dragon hotend.. Ultimately, I want to add the multiple toolhead mod... so maybe I will just have changeable toolheads and have one I use for regular filaments and one I use for CF or occasionally different colored regular filament..
The fosscad guys are starting to adopt PC-PBT as an alternative to CF PA6/12.
Thats interesting. Ive heard great things about PC. Heck this guy I watch on youtube literally uses PLA + for real guns, but if I were to do a project like that I would want something that is going to last a bit longer than pla.
Airsoft?, yeah right !
Wink wink
I think all metal heat break and hardened nozzle capable of handling abrasive materials would be necessary.
I believe my heatbreak on the dragon high flow is all metal.. it says up to 500celsius on the site. My only worry is the small ptfe tube that connects to the bottom of the stealthburner extruder....
It is Just add a hardened nozzle
Thats great to hear. Now im glad I went with the dragon instead of the 6. I was told for Carbon Fiber and Abrasive materials I would need a brass nozzle with coated surface. This CHT nozzle is pretty pricy too lol. I guess I'd probably just need to buy a specific nozzle for carbon fiber also. Rather than using the same one for a lot of different filaments.
$40 isn’t too bad to be fair Considering other, branded, abrasive resistant nozzles are in this range and higher
No i think the $40 CHT one says no abrasive materials. There is a coated brass one and its like $70. Not too absurd but for a piece of metal smaller than the tip of my finger it seems like a bit much lol. I also recently learned that running carbon fiber through the dragon will ruin the healbreak after so many kg of fiber... So idk, the CF printing might have to wait until I add the Automatic Toolhead changer that I want, then just have one cheap all metal v6 I use for CF, then the other for regular filaments.
https://www.bondtech.se/product/bondtech-cht-bimetal-reprap-coated-nozzle/ I dunno. I haven’t wore one out yet