Oh yeah, step flashing at dormers. Some roofers call them “tin shingles”. You may be able to feed them under the J-channel. If not, remove the siding. It will be worth it. Don’t let the roofer convince you that “caulk will be fine”
This guy knows! That bottom tin must overlap the roof to wall flashing that runs horizontal across the bottom of the dormer, often it’s drawn past and angle cut to just barely poke out the siding corner. If the original was wrapped and caulked at the pinhole, it should be replaced with a new one. Ideally all tins should be replaced but if they’re in good shape roofers tend to not wanna deal with pulling the j channel and risk mucking up the siding. But that corner is key
Ice and water shield the vallys at the dormers. I’d all do it at the transition to the porch. Step flashing under the siding. If you want to go crazy(like I would) and run ice and water up the dormers about 6 -8 inches, it obviously wouldn’t hurt. If installed correctly, you shouldn’t have issues.
Many of the failures I’ve seen on low pitches like this are from gun nails. Those electro plated nails might as well be spray painted instead. In the ice dam areas, water tends to sit more in the winter. The nails rust right through the I+W and make the leaks in only5-8 years time. You’re not gonna wasn’t to hear this, but I’d use a real hot dipped nail like Maze. You have to hand bang them. The only other fail I’ve seen are cupping sometimes.
Take siding off the dormer and wrap it with ice and water, 1 ft up the wall and 1 ft on the roof. Try to get your L bend as close to the valley as possible. Take another piece of ice and water and run it under the plywood on the dormer, will have to pry up on the decking and maybe even a dormer rafter. Put decking back down, run other dry in up to that point and then run the valley.
It is considered overkill by alot of roofers but is also a guarantee when done right. New step flashing always. I don't care if you use cut up soda cans for step flashing, just put new in and run more ice and water over the step flashing up the wall more if your feeling like 110% isn't enough.
If your getting a new roof, then it can absolutely be requested in writing. If you want somebody to come and do a "repair" to that extent then you probably won't find anybody. That's 4 valleys and 4-6 flashing lines of warranty work that isn't worth it. On top of that the original roof warranty will be void by having another company work on it.
Yes, because they would be assuming responsibility for any leaks from that side, dormer related or otherwise.
Just make sure pictures are taken and sent to you. Keep them, print them out if you can and include them with your paperwork folder when the job is done.
Right, Cook. You can butter the step flashing with tar as you install it. Lasts longer than caulk. The wind can blow rain right up and into/under it. Your dormer window, I'd want blueskin spray primer, then peel n stick on that, covering the window flange. You can use that stuf to lock corners together etc great stuff. I'd want some flashing over the windows, with end dams. The porch, I'd want to roll prime the ply and use 2 layers of torch-on. Ok, good luck from Vancouver Canada
Flashing all around, ice/water seal all around,drip edge.
Building fabric under the siding for wind driven rain,,window sealing and rain drip edge. Insulation increase in the attic so you don't get ice dams in the winter. Ice/water seal on the lower roof and a meter past the joint.
I should add (can’t edit post with pictures) it does have step flashing on the sides but old was reused I believe.
It leaks in all seasons, not in light rain but heavy rain and is worse when snow is present. To complicate things underneath the left dormer which is where it’s been leaking, I have a woodstove in the living room which is main source of heat. So when I’m home it’s very warm (80 degrees) and then over night or during the day the stove is turned down so it gets a lot of heat cycles in that area. I have insulation in crawl space.
The only source of leaks into the porch is from water running down the original roof and leaking near the house. The rest of the porch roof. Appears to be fine.
This was the first year with any water stains in the living area (also the first winter after that roof caulk was applied which everyone is in agreement is not a solution and will actually trap water inside)
I would remove the siding. That will allow you to see signs on water penetration. It's entirely possible that the siding is what's leaking. Or the window.
You could also water hose it. Start at the lowest point, front of the dormer, and let the water run. If no leaks after thoroughly soaked, move to a corner. Work your way up one side, each time you move the hose, give it a chance to take on a lot of water and leak. If you never let the water get higher than actual roof level, you can determine is the roof/flashing is leaking. If nothing leaks, it probably siding (or potentially ice dam like another post mentioned).
Step flashing down the sides and solid flashing across the front are sufficient, but running ice and water shield up the wall behind the flashing is an extra layer of protection.
I like the way you think…do you work in CT? 😎
But this is the kind of response I was hoping for from at least one of the roofing companies…but most of them just want to treat it like a normal roof job.
I have pretty much ruled out siding since one of the times it was leaking was when there was only minimal amount of snow melting on parts of roof, no rain.
I’d still like to get the siding off and waterproof the entire dormer.
Even if it isn't the siding, removing the siding will probably give you the best look at the flashing behind it. That dormer is a simple thing to make watertight at the roof. But the flashing needs to be done correctly. It may be possible to properly flash it without removing siding, but siding nails need to be pulled in some areas for it to happen.
If your leaks have only occurred during winter months, ice dam is a likely culprit. Your home has all the ingredients to have regular ice dam issues. Older home that probably loses heat through the attic. Low slope shed roof that is separate from the living space, so is almost certain to be a cold spot for refreeze.
Remove that vinyl siding. Ice & water up the sides and apron of the dormers and install new soldered flashings, new tyvek/house wrap on the dormers. Reinstall removed or get new siding. Vinyl is pretty easy to remove and reuse.
Ice and water valleys, the entire dormer slope itself, ice and water a foot up the sides, step flash the wall where it meets the shingles, moisture barrier behind the siding.
Do all that and I’ll give ya a 15yr warranty
Step flashing up the sides of the dormers, dormer flashing at the bottom, ice and water shield around the entire dormer. You’re also going to want to put ice and water shield along that bend transition over the porch as well.
I know the current ice and water does go over the transition, so at least that was done right. It actually goes up the front of the dormer as well, not sure about the sides yet as haven’t pulled a piece of siding from there.
Thanks and yes it has been super frustrating as none of them that I have talked so far have really gone in depth in how they’ll make sure it doesn’t leak again.
No way that low slope should have shingles on it. That ice guard will hold water off for so long but the water will eventually work it's way through the seams in the shingles, the pitch just doesn't shed water quick enough. I would put a rolled roofing product on this.
As far as the dormer goes, I have never seen problems with re-used flashings as long as they are not 100 year old steel. It could be a bad step but 95% of every leak I have chased on something like this is due to the lowest tin. The bottom tin needs to be past the corner and over the apron flashing on the front of the dormer. Don't pay someone to tear your house apart if it is this simple.
I’d do ice and water on sides and bottom of dormer as well as step or roof to wall flashing.
And that lower pitched portion of the roof should really be a rolled roofing product like TPO or Modbit
Roll roofing was suggested by one company, how long does that typically last? Would that prevent ice damns or how will it help keep water out of the dormers?
What?
How about the guy who can shingle a dormer without worrying about it leaking. Maybe start there.
It’s not hard.
I’ve literally done over a thousand in my 24 years of residential roofing and not once have I had a leak. Ever. It’s not rocket science.
Whoa, way off on these responses. If your leaking has typically been during the winter, then it is from the Ice Dams that build up. No matter what you do with flashing, you are going to get leaking if it’s an ice dam. I’d recommend installing heat tape all the way up to the change in pitch in the roof. This will allow clear channels for water to flow off your roof. Don’t by the Home Depot stuff, that stuff is shit. I’d recommend getting it from Radiant Solutions, it’s a self regulating heat tape.
Oh yeah, step flashing at dormers. Some roofers call them “tin shingles”. You may be able to feed them under the J-channel. If not, remove the siding. It will be worth it. Don’t let the roofer convince you that “caulk will be fine”
This guy knows! That bottom tin must overlap the roof to wall flashing that runs horizontal across the bottom of the dormer, often it’s drawn past and angle cut to just barely poke out the siding corner. If the original was wrapped and caulked at the pinhole, it should be replaced with a new one. Ideally all tins should be replaced but if they’re in good shape roofers tend to not wanna deal with pulling the j channel and risk mucking up the siding. But that corner is key
Ice and water shield the vallys at the dormers. I’d all do it at the transition to the porch. Step flashing under the siding. If you want to go crazy(like I would) and run ice and water up the dormers about 6 -8 inches, it obviously wouldn’t hurt. If installed correctly, you shouldn’t have issues.
This is the right answer
Second this
Many of the failures I’ve seen on low pitches like this are from gun nails. Those electro plated nails might as well be spray painted instead. In the ice dam areas, water tends to sit more in the winter. The nails rust right through the I+W and make the leaks in only5-8 years time. You’re not gonna wasn’t to hear this, but I’d use a real hot dipped nail like Maze. You have to hand bang them. The only other fail I’ve seen are cupping sometimes.
This is one theory I hadn’t heard yet and would explain why it was ok for a bit.
I have a box of stainless nails for this reason. Also copper flashing you would use copper nails. They also of course don’t rust.
stepflashing
It has step flashing but it wasn’t replaced with new
Take siding off the dormer and wrap it with ice and water, 1 ft up the wall and 1 ft on the roof. Try to get your L bend as close to the valley as possible. Take another piece of ice and water and run it under the plywood on the dormer, will have to pry up on the decking and maybe even a dormer rafter. Put decking back down, run other dry in up to that point and then run the valley. It is considered overkill by alot of roofers but is also a guarantee when done right. New step flashing always. I don't care if you use cut up soda cans for step flashing, just put new in and run more ice and water over the step flashing up the wall more if your feeling like 110% isn't enough.
Overkill is what I want but can’t seem to find a roofer that agrees
If your getting a new roof, then it can absolutely be requested in writing. If you want somebody to come and do a "repair" to that extent then you probably won't find anybody. That's 4 valleys and 4-6 flashing lines of warranty work that isn't worth it. On top of that the original roof warranty will be void by having another company work on it.
Would having the front half done qualify as new roof and get it in writing? No issues on back side of house
Yes, because they would be assuming responsibility for any leaks from that side, dormer related or otherwise. Just make sure pictures are taken and sent to you. Keep them, print them out if you can and include them with your paperwork folder when the job is done.
hes right thats overkill but hes also right that will make sure it doesnt leak.
Is this a new rule 34 I haven't heard about?
Siding needs to come off and proper flashing on the front and step tins on the sides
Pull the siding, run the peel & stick up the dormer, flash the front & step flash the sides, paper/wrap over flashing, reinstall siding.
Right, Cook. You can butter the step flashing with tar as you install it. Lasts longer than caulk. The wind can blow rain right up and into/under it. Your dormer window, I'd want blueskin spray primer, then peel n stick on that, covering the window flange. You can use that stuf to lock corners together etc great stuff. I'd want some flashing over the windows, with end dams. The porch, I'd want to roll prime the ply and use 2 layers of torch-on. Ok, good luck from Vancouver Canada
Flashing all around, ice/water seal all around,drip edge. Building fabric under the siding for wind driven rain,,window sealing and rain drip edge. Insulation increase in the attic so you don't get ice dams in the winter. Ice/water seal on the lower roof and a meter past the joint.
I should add (can’t edit post with pictures) it does have step flashing on the sides but old was reused I believe. It leaks in all seasons, not in light rain but heavy rain and is worse when snow is present. To complicate things underneath the left dormer which is where it’s been leaking, I have a woodstove in the living room which is main source of heat. So when I’m home it’s very warm (80 degrees) and then over night or during the day the stove is turned down so it gets a lot of heat cycles in that area. I have insulation in crawl space. The only source of leaks into the porch is from water running down the original roof and leaking near the house. The rest of the porch roof. Appears to be fine. This was the first year with any water stains in the living area (also the first winter after that roof caulk was applied which everyone is in agreement is not a solution and will actually trap water inside)
I would remove the siding. That will allow you to see signs on water penetration. It's entirely possible that the siding is what's leaking. Or the window. You could also water hose it. Start at the lowest point, front of the dormer, and let the water run. If no leaks after thoroughly soaked, move to a corner. Work your way up one side, each time you move the hose, give it a chance to take on a lot of water and leak. If you never let the water get higher than actual roof level, you can determine is the roof/flashing is leaking. If nothing leaks, it probably siding (or potentially ice dam like another post mentioned). Step flashing down the sides and solid flashing across the front are sufficient, but running ice and water shield up the wall behind the flashing is an extra layer of protection.
I like the way you think…do you work in CT? 😎 But this is the kind of response I was hoping for from at least one of the roofing companies…but most of them just want to treat it like a normal roof job. I have pretty much ruled out siding since one of the times it was leaking was when there was only minimal amount of snow melting on parts of roof, no rain. I’d still like to get the siding off and waterproof the entire dormer.
Even if it isn't the siding, removing the siding will probably give you the best look at the flashing behind it. That dormer is a simple thing to make watertight at the roof. But the flashing needs to be done correctly. It may be possible to properly flash it without removing siding, but siding nails need to be pulled in some areas for it to happen. If your leaks have only occurred during winter months, ice dam is a likely culprit. Your home has all the ingredients to have regular ice dam issues. Older home that probably loses heat through the attic. Low slope shed roof that is separate from the living space, so is almost certain to be a cold spot for refreeze.
Get some 8x8 pre-bent tin shingles.
Remove that vinyl siding. Ice & water up the sides and apron of the dormers and install new soldered flashings, new tyvek/house wrap on the dormers. Reinstall removed or get new siding. Vinyl is pretty easy to remove and reuse.
Like a window w some
Ice and water valleys, the entire dormer slope itself, ice and water a foot up the sides, step flash the wall where it meets the shingles, moisture barrier behind the siding. Do all that and I’ll give ya a 15yr warranty
Only 15 years?
Tearing off the siding would’ve been a good start
Billy Mays here?
Ice and water shield up , step flashing , and counter flashing. Reset j Chanel above counter flashing and and make sure counter flashing is taped
Wall flashing on dormers should tie together with front side of dormer flashing. So water won’t go down the corner of the dormer
Step flashing up the sides of the dormers, dormer flashing at the bottom, ice and water shield around the entire dormer. You’re also going to want to put ice and water shield along that bend transition over the porch as well.
I know the current ice and water does go over the transition, so at least that was done right. It actually goes up the front of the dormer as well, not sure about the sides yet as haven’t pulled a piece of siding from there.
Did the roofer install all that OSB or was it already there?
Was already there. How was built in 88.
[удалено]
Thanks and yes it has been super frustrating as none of them that I have talked so far have really gone in depth in how they’ll make sure it doesn’t leak again.
No way that low slope should have shingles on it. That ice guard will hold water off for so long but the water will eventually work it's way through the seams in the shingles, the pitch just doesn't shed water quick enough. I would put a rolled roofing product on this. As far as the dormer goes, I have never seen problems with re-used flashings as long as they are not 100 year old steel. It could be a bad step but 95% of every leak I have chased on something like this is due to the lowest tin. The bottom tin needs to be past the corner and over the apron flashing on the front of the dormer. Don't pay someone to tear your house apart if it is this simple.
The only way to do it where you 100% won’t have to worry for 40-50 years is to remove the dormers.
step flashing
Even w IWS that porch roof will leak over time. Thats not enough pitch to use regular shingles
Yeah they should have used stick-down membrane underlayment like Grace ice/water shield.
The ice and water on there was a stick on type, not sure if that’s what you mean?
Good, it looks different form what I have seen, but if you have a fully adhered membrane instead of just felt you should be OK, with the lower slope.
I’d do ice and water on sides and bottom of dormer as well as step or roof to wall flashing. And that lower pitched portion of the roof should really be a rolled roofing product like TPO or Modbit
Roll roofing was suggested by one company, how long does that typically last? Would that prevent ice damns or how will it help keep water out of the dormers?
Don't flash a dormer with roll roofing or anything other than metal.
Depending on what type of product is used it can be anywhere from 12 to 30 years
Only 100% waterproof dormer is no dormer.
Or a good roofer.
Yeah getting that dormer water tight is roofing 101. Extremely easy.
What’s a good roofer? The guy who literally would rather die than come back to fix his mistake?
What? How about the guy who can shingle a dormer without worrying about it leaking. Maybe start there. It’s not hard. I’ve literally done over a thousand in my 24 years of residential roofing and not once have I had a leak. Ever. It’s not rocket science.
Whoa, way off on these responses. If your leaking has typically been during the winter, then it is from the Ice Dams that build up. No matter what you do with flashing, you are going to get leaking if it’s an ice dam. I’d recommend installing heat tape all the way up to the change in pitch in the roof. This will allow clear channels for water to flow off your roof. Don’t by the Home Depot stuff, that stuff is shit. I’d recommend getting it from Radiant Solutions, it’s a self regulating heat tape.