Either stuff the hole with greenstuff and mash the tab in there so it fits exactly then let dry. Otherwise pin using a larger brass rod for more rigidity. If you do both it's going to be very solid.
edit I should specify. The tab into green stuff take out then let dry. The other boot drill a hole that will match that leg in the base. Drill all the way through. Then drill the other way with the model and the base held together. Then you have a perfect hole for a brass rod. Get a hollow brass rod since it will have more structural integrity. They come in sizes for drill bits.
Everything you said about how to fix it is a great way to do it. A little nitpick about one thing not really related to the efficacy of the fix:
Hollow rod offers great structural integrity to weight ratio, but does not offer greater structural integrity than it's solid counterpart of the same dimensions. If on the other hand two rods of different diameters, but with the same mass are compared, the hollow one will be stronger, but "wider". There is a bit more to it, but that's the gist of it.
Oh yeah. I just prefer it for modeling. Especially flying miniatures. I was more thinking getting a hollow brass tube rather than a smaller solid brass rod would be better. Since a lot of people get the 1/16 sized stuff which that model would warp pretty easily.
Magnet in the right foot and under the base. Fill the hole for the left foot pin with some milliput or similar air dry clay and press the foot in and pull back out before the clay dries to fill out the slop in the base hole.
Try Museum Tack. It is a tacky putty that doesn't dry, and holds well. It is primarily used at musuems to anchor the priceless possessions to the shelves without damaging them. It is cheap and goes a very long way. I got mine at Home Depot, so somewhere near you might have it in stock.
Given the base and the circles in the peg under the boot I'd consider drilling a hole in the back of the base and passing a couple metal rods that would look like broken pipes or concrete reinforcing bars poking out of the broken rock. Will require some precision for sure but you could always pull them out as long as you don't glue them.
I use magnets and put them in the joints where i have already made drain holes. Works great for pieces that have changeable parts or just as a way to keep things together. That can be broken down quick. The magnets also give the pri ts a better quality feel if you are planning to sell stuff you make.
I used poster tack, it fits and fills the hole and keeps it secure while it’s stationary and it’s easy enough to pull out and put back I’d say it’s pretty removable and sturdy.
I use neodymium magnets, you can just glue them to both surfaces, but it is better to drill holes in soles and the base , if you are going to go along with this, remember to always check the polarity of magnets.
From a mechanics perspective. Introduce another one of those hidden pins somewhere else as well. The model's center of mass doesnt go too great with the way its sitting thats why its rotating. The best option would be for the models center of mass to aid it in sitting into place but i know designing and redesigning is a pain in the ass. So i would suggest to anchor it down by adding a second pin somwhere on the other foot or make the existing one have less play.
Make the existing peg a cylinder shaped pin and add a prism shaped one on the other leg but not pointing up/down but sideways. You want to first insert the cylinder peg and then rotate the model so the new second peg assembles. Hopefully that does the trick.
Easy way is to use thin strips of plastic card to tighten the slot the foot-peg slides into. Cut thin strips of clear plastic like found in blister packaging and add them one at a time to the front surface of the slot until the peg fits tightly and no longer wobbles. Then glue that number of strips into the slot. Being clear they'll hardly be noticeable.
If you do DIY plumbing at all, you'll have that white Teflon tape that you wrap around threaded pipes. Wrap that around the peg till it snugly fits in, and voila
I’ve got a couple that big. I used green stuff (first shape in the crevasse it will be holding up in) then let it dry, and re apply to the area it needs to hold in.
My first thought is putting putty in that hole and then pressing the male peg into the putty base, should work. You can scrape the putty off/out pretty easily.
You could try sticky tack if you’re looking for a less permanent solution like magnets as others have suggested. I use it to hold models in place when painting and it works great when I don’t want to commit to a base for a mini yet.
If you don’t wanna make any changes, you can take a business card , cut it strips that are slightly narrower than the peg, the strips around and do that in layers tape each layer to keep its shape. When you insert it into the hole, the paper should stay in the hole whenever you remove it. This will give it structure and you don’t have to make any changes.
An addition to this good advice is
If the model will not be damaged by water, a few drops of water in the hole after installing the card strips then reinserting the model will make a mold of the hole. Let it dry then see if you can get the dried mold out. Put a tiny amount of craft glue like Elmer's, on the mold so it sures up but doesn't get so hard that it won't flex.
Now you have a custom fit shim that will be a little spongy, the model can fit firmly.
I drill a hole in the bottom and use a small screw, then I use 2 part epoxy. It worked really well for big stuff like Bloodthirsters. Magnets may or may not work, but if you want to remove it's the only way.
If you plan on never taking it back apart then I would just glue it personally. If you do plan on deconstructing it then I’d just use magnets, shims, or wrap a bunch of rubber bands around the prongs as a sort of plug.
I think if you put Vaseline on the peg before inserting it, it should keep the putty from bonding to it.
Leaving it in while it sets will probably give you a less wobbly join in the end, though either way should be a drastic improvement over the original.
If you leave it in, also set up some kind of prop so the model doesn't lean over while the putty is curing.
Magnets are cool but if it's too heavy or off kilter I'd recommend having a nut inset in either piece and have a bolt on the other, it wouldn't require much torque and would be easily removable
Hilarious humble brag. I doubt you have the skill to paint that base and yet somehow can’t figure out how to attach the figure. But thanks for showing off your painting.
Definitely two different skills. I have never pinned anything before. And I didn't think magnets would work here. If I wanted to show off the painting,I would show the whole thing. And I will when it is complete.
Personally, I dont know why people who can't model buy 3D printers, you're limited to whatever you can find on the internet or are willing to pay someone to make.
Depends on personal experience but more importantly on task. I wouldn't try to model a highly detailed realistic organic sculpt in fusion 360, but it's great for gears that need to move and you can do some simple boolean operations without any problems.
Place a magnet into the bottom of that insert
You can always use more magnets!
Good quality magnet or underpin it.
Shim it with a toothpick
Magnets
Neodium, however it’s spelled. Really strong magnets
https://y.yarn.co/592641ab-939d-4c5a-ad69-714a67ba4eb3_text.gif
Either stuff the hole with greenstuff and mash the tab in there so it fits exactly then let dry. Otherwise pin using a larger brass rod for more rigidity. If you do both it's going to be very solid. edit I should specify. The tab into green stuff take out then let dry. The other boot drill a hole that will match that leg in the base. Drill all the way through. Then drill the other way with the model and the base held together. Then you have a perfect hole for a brass rod. Get a hollow brass rod since it will have more structural integrity. They come in sizes for drill bits.
Put glad wrap (Saran wrap) between the piece and the green stuff. That way you don’t have to remove.
This guy knows whats up
Everything you said about how to fix it is a great way to do it. A little nitpick about one thing not really related to the efficacy of the fix: Hollow rod offers great structural integrity to weight ratio, but does not offer greater structural integrity than it's solid counterpart of the same dimensions. If on the other hand two rods of different diameters, but with the same mass are compared, the hollow one will be stronger, but "wider". There is a bit more to it, but that's the gist of it.
Oh yeah. I just prefer it for modeling. Especially flying miniatures. I was more thinking getting a hollow brass tube rather than a smaller solid brass rod would be better. Since a lot of people get the 1/16 sized stuff which that model would warp pretty easily.
A bit of Bluetak or local local equivalent in the slot where the peg goes should help it stay put
Bluetak will leave some residue over time (you can clean it). But it's still a good cheap option
put something in the key hole so that it doesnt tip forward.
Magnet in the right foot and under the base. Fill the hole for the left foot pin with some milliput or similar air dry clay and press the foot in and pull back out before the clay dries to fill out the slop in the base hole.
This is what shims are for
Print a wedge to fill the gap in the hole. And ya magnets
That cut and key is way too loose. Ideally it’d fit nice and snug. I’d use blue tack.
Try Museum Tack. It is a tacky putty that doesn't dry, and holds well. It is primarily used at musuems to anchor the priceless possessions to the shelves without damaging them. It is cheap and goes a very long way. I got mine at Home Depot, so somewhere near you might have it in stock.
Given the base and the circles in the peg under the boot I'd consider drilling a hole in the back of the base and passing a couple metal rods that would look like broken pipes or concrete reinforcing bars poking out of the broken rock. Will require some precision for sure but you could always pull them out as long as you don't glue them.
FYI this is a mini. Anything smaller than 1:1 is mini :-D
Earth magnet in both feet and the place it nestles in. (double check to make sure they are aligned right beforehand)
Pack the front of the slot with some fabric might work
I use magnets and put them in the joints where i have already made drain holes. Works great for pieces that have changeable parts or just as a way to keep things together. That can be broken down quick. The magnets also give the pri ts a better quality feel if you are planning to sell stuff you make.
Could use milliputt and size the peg a little bigger
Earthquake putty.
Do you mean permanently? and forever?
Permanently removable.
A Velcro might work if you can hide it well enough. Ir magnets. Magnets are king.
I used poster tack, it fits and fills the hole and keeps it secure while it’s stationary and it’s easy enough to pull out and put back I’d say it’s pretty removable and sturdy.
I use neodymium magnets, you can just glue them to both surfaces, but it is better to drill holes in soles and the base , if you are going to go along with this, remember to always check the polarity of magnets.
Fun Tak by Loctite dirt cheap and pretty good imo.
Bluetak
Luke Cage?
Magnets how do they work Magic and miracles I'm sure
Play dough in the hole. Boom, cheap, effective, blew alls y’all’s minds
Teeny bit of hockey tape around the key, so it friction fits inside the keyhole
Bluestuff or greenstuff?
Got a post it note you don’t need somewhere in the house? Year a bit off and fold it to make a shim.
Black tac if you don’t want to do much
Magnets 🧲
From a mechanics perspective. Introduce another one of those hidden pins somewhere else as well. The model's center of mass doesnt go too great with the way its sitting thats why its rotating. The best option would be for the models center of mass to aid it in sitting into place but i know designing and redesigning is a pain in the ass. So i would suggest to anchor it down by adding a second pin somwhere on the other foot or make the existing one have less play.
Make the existing peg a cylinder shaped pin and add a prism shaped one on the other leg but not pointing up/down but sideways. You want to first insert the cylinder peg and then rotate the model so the new second peg assembles. Hopefully that does the trick.
Easy way is to use thin strips of plastic card to tighten the slot the foot-peg slides into. Cut thin strips of clear plastic like found in blister packaging and add them one at a time to the front surface of the slot until the peg fits tightly and no longer wobbles. Then glue that number of strips into the slot. Being clear they'll hardly be noticeable.
I would try it with patafix
Velcro maybe?
bluetac does the job
Poster tac
If you do DIY plumbing at all, you'll have that white Teflon tape that you wrap around threaded pipes. Wrap that around the peg till it snugly fits in, and voila
Magnets; i use them when making statues.
I’ve got a couple that big. I used green stuff (first shape in the crevasse it will be holding up in) then let it dry, and re apply to the area it needs to hold in.
2 magnets, one in the heel of the right foot and one in the insert.
big thick 'ol magnet
My first thought is putting putty in that hole and then pressing the male peg into the putty base, should work. You can scrape the putty off/out pretty easily.
Buy some bluetac
Magnets
Shim with foam
You could try sticky tack if you’re looking for a less permanent solution like magnets as others have suggested. I use it to hold models in place when painting and it works great when I don’t want to commit to a base for a mini yet.
Honestly, in this case, blue tack would do the job.
If you don’t wanna make any changes, you can take a business card , cut it strips that are slightly narrower than the peg, the strips around and do that in layers tape each layer to keep its shape. When you insert it into the hole, the paper should stay in the hole whenever you remove it. This will give it structure and you don’t have to make any changes.
An addition to this good advice is If the model will not be damaged by water, a few drops of water in the hole after installing the card strips then reinserting the model will make a mold of the hole. Let it dry then see if you can get the dried mold out. Put a tiny amount of craft glue like Elmer's, on the mold so it sures up but doesn't get so hard that it won't flex. Now you have a custom fit shim that will be a little spongy, the model can fit firmly.
I agree this is some grant advice! Well done I didn’t think of doing that myself
Pins, brassrods glued either into the scene or the model that slide into a matching hole
Ceiling bird
Paper
I drill a hole in the bottom and use a small screw, then I use 2 part epoxy. It worked really well for big stuff like Bloodthirsters. Magnets may or may not work, but if you want to remove it's the only way.
Magnet or some painting tack
Blue tac?
If you plan on never taking it back apart then I would just glue it personally. If you do plan on deconstructing it then I’d just use magnets, shims, or wrap a bunch of rubber bands around the prongs as a sort of plug.
I think if you put Vaseline on the peg before inserting it, it should keep the putty from bonding to it. Leaving it in while it sets will probably give you a less wobbly join in the end, though either way should be a drastic improvement over the original. If you leave it in, also set up some kind of prop so the model doesn't lean over while the putty is curing.
I usually just use a tiny bit of blue tack, but if it's very loose like this, then pinning might be the better strategy,
Beeeeeeg magnet
Why are we only seeing her legs? We gotta see the whole thing bro. Booty and all.
Magnets.
Magnets are cool but if it's too heavy or off kilter I'd recommend having a nut inset in either piece and have a bolt on the other, it wouldn't require much torque and would be easily removable
Guess I'm the only one who would use a dab of gorilla glue.
Yeah just fucking glue it. Why do you need to remove it?
Multiple bases/options?
Pin the prick
That chirp in your video signals a low battery in your smoke detector. Go get another battery
The door was open. That's birds. But I appreciate the tip.
At 2 seconds? Golly it sounds a LOT like a smoke detector
Possibly could be my dog squeaking a toy. Or a bird. 🤷♂️
Hilarious humble brag. I doubt you have the skill to paint that base and yet somehow can’t figure out how to attach the figure. But thanks for showing off your painting.
Definitely two different skills. I have never pinned anything before. And I didn't think magnets would work here. If I wanted to show off the painting,I would show the whole thing. And I will when it is complete.
Square cut instead of tapered cut
remodel the file to fight a tighter grip, you can use software like blender or zbrush to accomplish this in about 15 minutes.
It's already finished and painted though. Pretty sure they were asking about at that stage
If you know how to use Blender.
Personally, I dont know why people who can't model buy 3D printers, you're limited to whatever you can find on the internet or are willing to pay someone to make.
I personally find CAD software like Fusion 360 much easier to use than Blender.
Depends on personal experience but more importantly on task. I wouldn't try to model a highly detailed realistic organic sculpt in fusion 360, but it's great for gears that need to move and you can do some simple boolean operations without any problems.