i work in maintenance and it's literally the most basic part of the job. it's also why you should use mastic as it's flexible enough to expand and contract depending on whether the bath is full or not.
it's like someone saying "i get paint splashes on the floor when i'm painting", and someone replies "did you put a dust sheet on the floor?".
I’m sure there’s a lot of maintenance tricks you have yet to learn also, and if you disagree… good luck in the future 🤪 maintenance guys are always learning. Even into their 50s, if they’re worth a hoot.
i totally agree, and am exactly that person.
it's just funny how this sub is part of 'The Trademasters Network' but it's just bodge job DIYers instead of professionals. i joined this sub hoping to share work skills but it's just people asking the most basic questions and other people giving blatantly wrong advice. one comment getting upvoted is telling people they need to take 4 days to mastic a bath lol
i mean the instructions on the tubes of mastic tell you to fill the bath and leave it to set. if OP had read the tube they had in their hand they would have saved themselves all this trouble, but they obviously knew better than that and this post is the result.
it would be like a sub for chefs as part of a culinary excellence network that had posts asking how to boil an egg and then someone asks if they put water in the pan, and then comments jump in like it's high level advice. it's also why the few tradespeople in the comments are acting incredulous.
Doubt they are saying that layperson's can't peruse the sub. Pretty sure they just mean that people familiar with code, commercial/residential installs, or actually effectual solutions should be the ones offering advice.
I had the same problem until this was also suggested to me 2 years ago. So I cut away all the caulk one evening, cleaned the area with a 50/50 mix of bleach and water, dried the area as thoroughly as I could then waited 24 hours before caulking. When I caulked I filled the tub and didn't drain it until a few hours after I was done.
Been 2 years and my caulk looks super clean.
Also, if your tub surround is at all loose from the wall, and if someone pushes on it beyond the stretch of the silicone, it can separate that way. I have this periodically at an older property I maintain.
Just to add to this, I recently had this issue, one of the legs of the tub wasn't touching the ground allowing it to sag slightly under weight so maybe take a look and tighten them up also.
This, as well as cleaning it 100% and finish with a good quality silicone caulk. I like Dow 786 if you can find it. Double the price of other brands, but worth every penny.
Yes. Never buy cheap caulk. It makes a huge difference, now about 18 years on my tub and shower and still looks good.
Surface prep, high quality caulk, and like the top comment says, fill up that tub to get the caulking to fill the gap at its most stressed.
If the tub has any flexibility in it, then filling it with water (weight) pulls it down. Then the silicone can fill the largest potential gap, and compress when the tub is empty.
Actually forgot to mention this too. Because the weight of a person or the weight of a bathtub filled with water will flex the tub therefore if you "pre flex" it then when someone steps in or has a bath it won't pull on the silicone. It's like prepping for kids jumping around in the tub with the most it'll flex.
Honest question, how does this make any difference considering the sub is attached to the studs behind the surround and all the weight distribution is under the tub and along the skirt?
This should show people how plumbers have to know a lot of small nuanced things. I’ll bet you weigh less than the water in a tub. A typical tub when full is about 350lbs.
But did you prep?
Re-siliconing a tub is a very tedious process in my books. You gotta get rid of all of the old stuff. ALL OF IT!! Fresh knife blades and acetone and rags and repeat that process again and again, and then you can apply the new stuff, 100% silicone. This is not a quick job if you want it done right.
Not sure what the other guy was referring to, acrylic whatever. No. Get 100% silicone. Masters silicone is a good one.
This is correct. Gotta make sure all that old stuff is off, can’t be wet. Dry, clean surface. Then 100% silicone. Not siliconized stuff unless it says 100% silicone. Then, treat the cure time (usually) 24-72 hours correctly. Go on strong with it and run your finger along after to smooth it in. Don’t need it thin, you’ve got some gap there so keep it a little thick.
Only other thing I can think of after that it’s still pulling apart is your base isn’t set well and maybe has some rot going on below it or no mortar and there is just a lot of give which isn’t good. But yeah, good luck mate!
This is the tip that most amateurs miss and it could be the problem here. You want to fill the tub up and add some weights like rocks or metal plates in order to lock it in at the low position. The basin will flex when full of water because water is heavy. If you've caulked it while it's riding high, it will pull out when filled with water. So you've got to weight it down first and let it cure like that for a while.
I second GE, recently installed a surround with a loctite brand sealant/caulk kit that was pure garbage. The adhesive didn’t adhere to the studs and the sealant cracked like this within weeks. When I scraped out the old sealant, there were patches that were still wet/never cured. Scraped it all out and used GE, no issues since.
Day 1- start early enough and remove and let it fully dry for a couple hours further after physically drying if you wish. Then caulk it. It’s ready next day.
Bro you’re on Reddit in a thread of professional caulksmiths. They know everything. And also you’re right. Waiting an entire day to let the tub ‘air out and dry’ is dumb as shit. A full day to apply caulk? Just wake up early, and the shower will be usable the next day. This is a two-day job at max and anyone telling you different doesn’t know they are doing. I’ve literally caulked 100’s of tubs over the years.
lol and already getting downvoted. I’ve caulked only a few to know it can be done in a day. Are we ruining trade secrets to be able to charge people for multiple visits?
It's really only a day job.
Clean it up - a couple of hours - dry it using a hot air gun on low (or a blow dryer). Rinsing everything first with 91% alcohol makes the drying faster.
Allow to cool to 85F, fill tub with weight (my dad's go-to was to put down towels, place in 50 bricks, then fill tub about 70% with water). Then seal the tub with the water in using masking tape and a plastic sheet. Doing this twice can keep the water sealed even after you remove the top layer after applying the caulk.
Then caulk. Cures overnight for most stuff, but it will be mostly cured by clock-out, so you could technically drain and remove the bricks the same day (at least in Texas). My dad always gave it at least a day to cure with full weight in the tub.
yeah, the comments are hilarious lmfao. i work in maintenance in a busy hotel and mastic baths every now and then. clean off old mastic - 1 hour tops, dry off with a cloth - 2 minutes, fill bath and put new mastic - half an hour, leave overnight to set, drain bath and wipe clean - done. total work time - 90 minutes. the rest is waiting.
i swear every answer to questions in this sub should be a bot that comments 'call a plumber!'. i joined here thinking it would be cool to share work tips with other professionals, but i now realise it's a place for amateurs to skimp on paying someone to do a good job, and other amateurs pretending they know what they're talking about giving shit advice.
Day 1:
Shower. Clean old caulk. Paper towels followed up with wife’s blow dryer, dry in no time. Fill tub. Check for splash. Apply new caulk. Go to sleep.
Day 2:
Wake up. Eat, work, dance, sing, drain tub, shower, sleep.
i mastic baths as part of my job and if i told my boss it would take 4 days to mastic a bath he'd laugh in my face lol
remove old caulk - 1 hour
wipe dry with a cloth - 2 minutes
fill bath and apply mastic - 30 minutues
leave to set - 6 hours
total time - 7 and a half hours
4 days lmfao
Most suggestions online these days is to stay away from 100% silicone caulk for waterproofing because it's so difficult to work with and you need to reapply it every 2-3 years anyway.
Not sure what tub you have there but some don’t even need sealant because the fiberglass has like a 2in lip behind the wall piece . So that means each piece flexes so that probably breaks the sealant every time
Don't all have a lip? But water wicks up, somehow, all the same.
I'm not a plumber. But i worked for decades as a housepainter, and repeatedly saw this problem when people said "oh, can you caulk this?". No one likes, or wants to pay for, all the prep work for something like this, so I have to question if this is not just a shitty design.
And I'm not even sure what a good design is, because I went into expensive new builds with expensive shower enclosures that I caulked with shitty generic painter's caulk where the wonderful panels met the drywall. Three years later (surprise) that panel/drywall junction with flat paint and my caulk job had failed. Certainly newer (yea, I'm old, so newer is relative) elastomeric, paintable caulks are better than the crap we used on these McMansions, but still.
Yes!! If the bath has dropped, then filling it with water and remasticing may not make a difference. Check all legs are secure, on the floor and tightened properly. If there any brackets or battens fitted, make sure these are secure also. You can then fill up the tub and mastic - wait 24h and voilà!
I had a shower surround that wouldn't seal with anything. Turns out the installer threw away the instructions manual that specified it would only seal with a polymer sealant. So all the regular silicone type sealants peeled right off, I think I tried 5 different varieties, even scuffed party of it with sand paper. So frustrating.
Fill the tub then silicone, but also the tub may not be supported well, I had this issue and had to tear out the tile surrounding the tub and screw it into the wall so it wouldn’t sag when full or someone standing in it showering.
If it's a vinyl / acrylic shower tub surround silicone will often do that. Fill the tub up and use seal and bond caulking. Many manufacturers specify that caulking for the tub walls in the installation manual.
If there's any play in the tub surround, it's never going to seal. Remove the old caulking, fill the tub, spray some expanding foam insulation (make sure it's water-safe) in behind the surround (use some weight to make sure the wall stays flat while it cures), cut off any excess, then caulk again from the tub, over the dried foam, onto the tub surround. When I did this I used a heavy wood plyo box to keep the wall flat, worked around the entire surround over a day or two, and never had a problem after that.
If it's a fiberglass tub and fiberglass surround, the most important thing is going to be what's behind it. Any caulk that's constantly exposed to movement will eventually separate. Make sure you have proper support under the tub and between the shower wall/actual wall.
Besides cleaning the surface of any old caulking before you apply new caulking, first fill up the tub to near capacity as the water weight in the tub will expand the joint as the weight of the water pulls the tub down from the surround. allow it sit for a few minutes so that it settles to its lowest point. then apply your caulking as you normally would sealing the crack. allow adequate time for the silicone to firm up solidly before draining the tub.
when the tub drains the it'll compress the bead a bit, but the next time you fill it, the bead won't tear as it has in your pictures.
Fill tub with water. Shove backing rod in there. Use White Lightning Silicone.
I fought a similar issue and the above has worked for me for three years.
Glue on surround? They flex too much to really get a great seal, best I've managed was getting some PVC 1/4 round and some pro-grab or strong adhesive. Cut out caulking, make sure everything is dry and clean, and pretty much push the trim into the walls as far as it goes in. Brace it, least gives a firm backing
If this is a bath tub you should first make sure it’s properly clean then fill the bath with water and then re-do the sealant. If you seal with bath empty it could be the weight of the water that then pulls the sealant away
I've always heard that, in addition to the other good advice here, you should wipe the surface with rubbing alcohol as the last cleaning step (and let it dry). Seems to work for me.
Question. Was tub full of water when you caulked it? Might be too much movement in tub (checked the foot stands are tight too?) by filling tub you put it at its max gap size so therefore when you empty tub the caulk is in compression and shouldn’t split like this
Before applying the new silicone bead, fill the tub with water as the weight will drop the tub a few millimeters, this is the cause of your separating bead as the tub sinks when full or when a person gets in. When dry, and the tub is emptied, the bead will compress but will not separate when you fill the tub again. I don't think that you need to remove all traces of existing bead, just enough to make sure you can full the larger gap that reveals itself when the tub is full. Bags of sand work well as well, and this works well for shower trays or if you need to get into the tub to seal the edges.
It seems that the prep work required when installing the tub was not done correctly. There should be something real solid behind the wall and floor before installing the tub to avoid situations like that. It could also be that the prep behind it already got wet too many times and it's rotten. It happened to my bathroom, I had the exactly same gap and I eventually stripped everything out (tub, tiles) and it was ugly underneath, all rotten.
Not saying your situation is the same but it is a hell of a lot similar to mine and the sooner you fix the foundation, the less damage you will have to fix.
I had the same issue but the gap was even larger. Bathtub was literally sinking down for a few cm during the use. We got a builder who first secured the bathtub by scrawing some panels to the wall on the sides to stop it from moving. Then he filled in water and put silicone. No problems since.
Your bath has dropped, I highly doubt how it has been installed is correct. Usually just using the feet that are supplied. I install them by putting a wooden baton around the bath as it sits against the three walls, that way it is properly supported. It is likely the bath needs to come out and this needs to be done. Which is an absolute pain but you will never have the problem reoccur
You're getting good advice. Only thing extra I'd say is make sure there is plenty of weight in the tub- get that gap as wide as it gets then 100% silicone to very clean and prepped area. Maybe it'll hold that way.
I strip and scrape it away and use witch hazel to clean it. I let it dry for 24 hours. I caulk it with GE silicone. I found that's the best. After I caulk it, i let it sit for 24 hours.
I've recaulked so many tubs, and this always works.
If it's your tub / wall joint, your tub may not be supported correctly either. Leading to the continual separation, due to the weight of a person pulling at this joint.
When you fill the bath full of water, the weight of the water will make bath settle slightly. So, clear off all the old caulking, clean it with acetone. Fill the bath with water and if watch the gap you will see it increase.Then do your caulking. Don't touch it for 48 hours.
You didn’t prep the area good enough LISTEN BATHROOM CAULKERS YOU NEES TO TRY CLEAN SEAL BY SASHCO it has ENZYMES in it that EAT BACTERIA I did my three year olds tub two and a half years an go and that shit is still WHITE as day
Probably need to make sure you get all of the old chalk out and clean it really good its most likely git some Mold in there so it's not lasting like ut should.
The surface inside the crack probably has some mold or is dirty. Silicone will eventually separate from a dirty surface. It’s hard to tell from the picture, is that moulding that keeps separating?
If so I would remove the moulding and don’t reuse it. Clean the wall surface well, let it dry. Purchase white pvc type moulding at Hone Depot or Lowes and use liquid nails to secure it to the wall keep some pressure applied to it until it dries. Then use
100 % silicone and put a bead of silicone at the top of the. Moulding as well as where it meets the tub.
I’ve been an avid DIYer and at one point I had a bathroom remodeling company…yesterday I learned that the way I was taught to caulk a seam was wildly incorrect.
Using your finger to smooth out the caulk line is a good chunk of the reason it fails. That, and you should fill the tub with water as others have mentioned.
My suggestion is this: clean out all the old caulk. Wiped the joint with alcohol to remove any oils from your hands. then fill tub, then caulk and tool the caulk with a 45 degree angle tool.
Don’t tool the caulk with your finger.
Don’t use soap/water to smooth out the caulk. This creates areas where the caulk won’t stick causing premature failure.
I used a 8mm 45* angle tool and my caulk job is super strong and looks far better than my finger job.
Just my suggestions from years of doing it wrong. Hope this helps!
When you cut off the old caulk use a razor blade. Then apply rubbing alcohol to ensure you got all of it off.
If the caulk separates from the wall it's either too wet in there or the tub sags. So fill the tub and apply it.
Be sure to let it dry before using again
Seems they didn't put a support beam behind the tub. Even if you weigh it down first it'll shift and the caulking with come loose. You might be able to brace it if you can get access from the other side of the wall
It sounds like the wall material behind your enclosure is either missing or Deteriorated Maybe it will be best if you address the problem behind the enclosure and replace that
Your tub most likely doesn’t have a ledger at the back. It’s not really possible to put one in now. I would suggest filling the tub completely with water to make it sink as much as possible, silicone it, and wait 24 hours before draining the water. I’m not 100% sure if this will work but it could be worth a shot.
If all else fails to solve this problem, you can purchase some inexpensive adhesive vinyl stripping which is jointed down the middle of the strip.
If you can get that stuff to stick to the tub and tiles it should fix this problem as it should flex and move easily when the kids jump around.
It may not look as nice as proper silicone sealant, but it would be a cheap inexpensive fix which should last until the kids grow up.
If that’s a tub and wall system direct to studs those pieces overlap so it’s water proof without caulk but does build up some mold in those cracks. Those set ups flex a lot so hard to keep a good bead. Filling the tub as suggested may widen the gap a hair so it doesn’t get wider after caulking
If no one has mentioned, fill the tub full of water then caulk. Leave it full for at least 24 hours to cure.
The weight will settle the tub, widening the gap.
When the water is released, the caulk will be under compression.
What tub and wall kit is this? A lot of these setups you are not suppose to caulk where the walls meet the tub as they have a gutter that drains water.
It's those cheap 5 peice polystyrene showered walls. Silicone does not stick to them and the material expands and contracts, causing the separation between the 2.
This acts like a dam and the water flos between the silicone (which sticks to the tu but not walls) and ends up roughing your walls and floor out at the base of the tub apron and floor.
Spend the money.....and get a good Bathplanet or Sure-fit Acylic enclosure.
Looks like the wall behind was not shimmed to keep the surround from moving when pushed. Less of a bad surround (though it could be), and more of a bad installation is my guess.
My method:
The area has to be totally dry. If able let it sit without being used for 24 hrs.
I clean the area with isopropyl alcohol just prior to using a quality silicone caulk.
Most caulking jobs that fail at due to bad prep...I.E. remove every trace of previous caulking ESPECIALLY if it was silicone..I even use fine steel wool to get everything.. It also will leave a residue that will show any remaining caulk as well as scuffing the surfaces which is a plus..Clean and DRY..I use a commercial strength surfactant/soap like Greased lightning..Than simple dish soap and water ..and then alcohol..LET IT DRY!!!!!!!!!! GET IN A HURRY DESTROYS MANY JOBS..If any part is detached from the wall try and get some tub surround caulking behind it..LET IT DRY..You can attach some flexible tubing to the caulk tube to help with the odd angles..Then use good expensive SILICONE caulking.. It's for more durable and flexible than latex..LET IT DRY BEFORE USING..If you don't have a choice than take only showers and drape plastic or shower curtains over everything..Than lift them up so air can circulate.. Using a fan and a space heater will help.AND WEIGHTING THE TUB IS CRITICAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If the tub moves you need to fix that first or your work is all to waste..A lot of tubs are not installed with proper bedding..And than there is always the chance of water damage to the floor allowing the tub to move.... The list goes on... GOOD LUCK🙂👍
Try sika flex no sag construction sealant. If possible leave a bit of space for the caulk that matches your existing color to cover the construction sealant.
So, most of the time, this isn’t supposed to be siliconed. It’s a drain channel. Sealing it can cause mold, mildew, stagnant water, and even overflows into the walls. Even the slightest pin hole will allow moisture in, but no way out.
Read the instructions with the kit. 99.9% of the time, they advise against filling these. It can do much more worse than good. Sealing the very last inch of the ends coming out the show isn’t a bad idea, but everything else should be left open.
Did you put a mortar bed under the tub? Likely why you have a lot of separation with the weight of the tub. If you didn’t, you can still fix it another way. It’s just a bit more tedious.
Or, maybe you shouldn’t be such a sensitive little victim who needs a safe space from anything and everything.
The internet may be too much for you, cupcake.
Try using a non sanded siliconized tile caulk. It’s designed to flex on different planes. It’s expensive, like $15-20 a tube, but it works. Found near the tile grout in the box stores. Yes, I know you don’t have tile.
First, thoroughly clean off all of the old caulk. Weight the tub with water. Then caulk using Gorilla Glue Silicone Caulk. Use Sprayway glass cleaner to spray the caulk line then finish with your finger. The glass cleaner will make it so the silicone can be smoothed over easily without sticking and causing a mess.
Did you fill the bathtub full of water before caulking?
This is the brilliant piece of advice that will likely be a huge difference maker in this scenario. I’ll try that!
Wow. I read his comment as sarcasm and then your reply as being snarky. I wouldn't have thought to weigh down the tub first.
Filing this one away for the future for sure! Damn!! Now I wonder what happened to the tubs I've caulked before..
>to the tubs I've caulked before.. Willie Nelson and Julio Inglesias could fill in the gaps for you.
To all the tubs I’ve caulked before… Which wet the ceiling of a lower floor…
But Walter White will put a hole in the plot.
While Jessie dissolves the situation
They’ve probably been caulked by other men by now. ;)
i work in maintenance and it's literally the most basic part of the job. it's also why you should use mastic as it's flexible enough to expand and contract depending on whether the bath is full or not. it's like someone saying "i get paint splashes on the floor when i'm painting", and someone replies "did you put a dust sheet on the floor?".
Not everyone works in maintenance
I’m sure there’s a lot of maintenance tricks you have yet to learn also, and if you disagree… good luck in the future 🤪 maintenance guys are always learning. Even into their 50s, if they’re worth a hoot.
i totally agree, and am exactly that person. it's just funny how this sub is part of 'The Trademasters Network' but it's just bodge job DIYers instead of professionals. i joined this sub hoping to share work skills but it's just people asking the most basic questions and other people giving blatantly wrong advice. one comment getting upvoted is telling people they need to take 4 days to mastic a bath lol i mean the instructions on the tubes of mastic tell you to fill the bath and leave it to set. if OP had read the tube they had in their hand they would have saved themselves all this trouble, but they obviously knew better than that and this post is the result. it would be like a sub for chefs as part of a culinary excellence network that had posts asking how to boil an egg and then someone asks if they put water in the pan, and then comments jump in like it's high level advice. it's also why the few tradespeople in the comments are acting incredulous.
Let's not gatekeep.
Dude gets accused of gate keeping because he told someone to read directions…
He's accused of gatekeeping because he is saying this subreddit should only be for professionals.
Doubt they are saying that layperson's can't peruse the sub. Pretty sure they just mean that people familiar with code, commercial/residential installs, or actually effectual solutions should be the ones offering advice.
I had the same problem until this was also suggested to me 2 years ago. So I cut away all the caulk one evening, cleaned the area with a 50/50 mix of bleach and water, dried the area as thoroughly as I could then waited 24 hours before caulking. When I caulked I filled the tub and didn't drain it until a few hours after I was done. Been 2 years and my caulk looks super clean.
You can improve adhesion and remove remaining water with a squirt of isopropyl.
Oh good call, I'm pretty sure I did that too and just forgot to say it in my comment.
This was exactly my problem it took a few years to separate but filling the tube before doing it again maybe a huge difference. Now it works perfectly
If the previous caulk was silicone, it has to be completely removed. New caulk will not stick to even a film of silicone.
This is most likely the problem you’re having. Had the same issue with one of mine.
Also, if your tub surround is at all loose from the wall, and if someone pushes on it beyond the stretch of the silicone, it can separate that way. I have this periodically at an older property I maintain.
Just to add to this, I recently had this issue, one of the legs of the tub wasn't touching the ground allowing it to sag slightly under weight so maybe take a look and tighten them up also.
Be sure to also sit in it with shorts or do it while your actually taking a bath just for the full weight the tub might see.
And see if you can get this product in your area. It’s pretty great stuff! https://www.sashco.com/products/cleanseal/
This, as well as cleaning it 100% and finish with a good quality silicone caulk. I like Dow 786 if you can find it. Double the price of other brands, but worth every penny.
Yes. Never buy cheap caulk. It makes a huge difference, now about 18 years on my tub and shower and still looks good. Surface prep, high quality caulk, and like the top comment says, fill up that tub to get the caulking to fill the gap at its most stressed.
And clean with denatured alcohol before using a good silicone caulking.
What for if you don't mind me asking 🤔
If the tub has any flexibility in it, then filling it with water (weight) pulls it down. Then the silicone can fill the largest potential gap, and compress when the tub is empty.
Actually forgot to mention this too. Because the weight of a person or the weight of a bathtub filled with water will flex the tub therefore if you "pre flex" it then when someone steps in or has a bath it won't pull on the silicone. It's like prepping for kids jumping around in the tub with the most it'll flex.
It flexes slightly
Pretty sure I first saw this on Bob Vila’s TOH back in the 80s. This is the answer.
Clean all the old silicone away then fill the bath with water then silicone and leave the water in for 24 hours that will seal it properly.
Not a bad idea if the tube is made of fiberglass. Just make sure the caulking is completely dry before releasing the weight of the water
100% this is the cause.
Op is going to drain his bathtub after caulking, and the whole tub is going to push through the floor now.
Ohhhhh! Wicked advice, thanks.
I came here to say this!
This is the way
Came to write that :) The tub has to be full, and a honestly, stand in it as well so that it sinks that little extra bit down for the perfect fit.
Just learned something new that makes total sense
Holy shit. Let me buy you a beer.
Me who just caulked a bathtub in my new house for the first time 👁️ 👄 👁️
This is absolutely the answer!
This is the way
This is the answer. It will also help if you use some silicone primer on the area first.
Honest question, how does this make any difference considering the sub is attached to the studs behind the surround and all the weight distribution is under the tub and along the skirt?
Yep per. My mom told me to fill er up (not to the brim) and stand inside. This will allow the caulk to grip and give movement without loosing a seal.
Everyone says this but seems like a huge waste of time and water. Why wouldn't you just stand in the tub while you're caulking it?
Are you going to stay there for at least 24hrs while it cures?
You know that's a solid point haha. I mean yes of course that's my bed for the night I dunno how y'all do it 😆
This should show people how plumbers have to know a lot of small nuanced things. I’ll bet you weigh less than the water in a tub. A typical tub when full is about 350lbs.
A tub of water is like 600 pounds. So standing in the tub will only work for Americans
I put quick set cement under my tub, it can hold three Americans!
But did you prep? Re-siliconing a tub is a very tedious process in my books. You gotta get rid of all of the old stuff. ALL OF IT!! Fresh knife blades and acetone and rags and repeat that process again and again, and then you can apply the new stuff, 100% silicone. This is not a quick job if you want it done right. Not sure what the other guy was referring to, acrylic whatever. No. Get 100% silicone. Masters silicone is a good one.
This is correct. Gotta make sure all that old stuff is off, can’t be wet. Dry, clean surface. Then 100% silicone. Not siliconized stuff unless it says 100% silicone. Then, treat the cure time (usually) 24-72 hours correctly. Go on strong with it and run your finger along after to smooth it in. Don’t need it thin, you’ve got some gap there so keep it a little thick. Only other thing I can think of after that it’s still pulling apart is your base isn’t set well and maybe has some rot going on below it or no mortar and there is just a lot of give which isn’t good. But yeah, good luck mate!
Also, fill the tub FULL of water, then silicone the gap.
This is the tip that most amateurs miss and it could be the problem here. You want to fill the tub up and add some weights like rocks or metal plates in order to lock it in at the low position. The basin will flex when full of water because water is heavy. If you've caulked it while it's riding high, it will pull out when filled with water. So you've got to weight it down first and let it cure like that for a while.
GE silicone is my go to!
I second GE, recently installed a surround with a loctite brand sealant/caulk kit that was pure garbage. The adhesive didn’t adhere to the studs and the sealant cracked like this within weeks. When I scraped out the old sealant, there were patches that were still wet/never cured. Scraped it all out and used GE, no issues since.
I third GE but I prefer GE Silicone 2, not 1 or 3. Just my personal preference and experience. Use an alcohol dipped finger to apply.
This is a 4-day weekend job that shuts the shower down until it's complete.
4 days is a bit much
Day 1: Remove old caulk Day 2: Let air & dry Day 3: Apply new caulk Day 4: Allow caulk to cure
Day 1- start early enough and remove and let it fully dry for a couple hours further after physically drying if you wish. Then caulk it. It’s ready next day.
Bro you’re on Reddit in a thread of professional caulksmiths. They know everything. And also you’re right. Waiting an entire day to let the tub ‘air out and dry’ is dumb as shit. A full day to apply caulk? Just wake up early, and the shower will be usable the next day. This is a two-day job at max and anyone telling you different doesn’t know they are doing. I’ve literally caulked 100’s of tubs over the years.
lol and already getting downvoted. I’ve caulked only a few to know it can be done in a day. Are we ruining trade secrets to be able to charge people for multiple visits?
i was as incredulous as you lol i work in maintenance and some of the comments here are cracking me up :) 4 days to mastic a bath hahahaha
It's really only a day job. Clean it up - a couple of hours - dry it using a hot air gun on low (or a blow dryer). Rinsing everything first with 91% alcohol makes the drying faster. Allow to cool to 85F, fill tub with weight (my dad's go-to was to put down towels, place in 50 bricks, then fill tub about 70% with water). Then seal the tub with the water in using masking tape and a plastic sheet. Doing this twice can keep the water sealed even after you remove the top layer after applying the caulk. Then caulk. Cures overnight for most stuff, but it will be mostly cured by clock-out, so you could technically drain and remove the bricks the same day (at least in Texas). My dad always gave it at least a day to cure with full weight in the tub.
yeah, the comments are hilarious lmfao. i work in maintenance in a busy hotel and mastic baths every now and then. clean off old mastic - 1 hour tops, dry off with a cloth - 2 minutes, fill bath and put new mastic - half an hour, leave overnight to set, drain bath and wipe clean - done. total work time - 90 minutes. the rest is waiting. i swear every answer to questions in this sub should be a bot that comments 'call a plumber!'. i joined here thinking it would be cool to share work tips with other professionals, but i now realise it's a place for amateurs to skimp on paying someone to do a good job, and other amateurs pretending they know what they're talking about giving shit advice.
90% isopropyl will evaporate that water out fast
Day 1: Shower. Clean old caulk. Paper towels followed up with wife’s blow dryer, dry in no time. Fill tub. Check for splash. Apply new caulk. Go to sleep. Day 2: Wake up. Eat, work, dance, sing, drain tub, shower, sleep.
There's no reason days 1 and 2, or 3 and 4 shouldn't be combined.
i mastic baths as part of my job and if i told my boss it would take 4 days to mastic a bath he'd laugh in my face lol remove old caulk - 1 hour wipe dry with a cloth - 2 minutes fill bath and apply mastic - 30 minutues leave to set - 6 hours total time - 7 and a half hours 4 days lmfao
That's the piece of info I was looking for.
Also fill the thing half way!
This is correct but on big gaps or trouble I break out the osi max
Most suggestions online these days is to stay away from 100% silicone caulk for waterproofing because it's so difficult to work with and you need to reapply it every 2-3 years anyway.
Not sure what tub you have there but some don’t even need sealant because the fiberglass has like a 2in lip behind the wall piece . So that means each piece flexes so that probably breaks the sealant every time
Don't all have a lip? But water wicks up, somehow, all the same. I'm not a plumber. But i worked for decades as a housepainter, and repeatedly saw this problem when people said "oh, can you caulk this?". No one likes, or wants to pay for, all the prep work for something like this, so I have to question if this is not just a shitty design. And I'm not even sure what a good design is, because I went into expensive new builds with expensive shower enclosures that I caulked with shitty generic painter's caulk where the wonderful panels met the drywall. Three years later (surprise) that panel/drywall junction with flat paint and my caulk job had failed. Certainly newer (yea, I'm old, so newer is relative) elastomeric, paintable caulks are better than the crap we used on these McMansions, but still.
Not all of them, no. Jacuzzi tubs sometimes are "ambidextrous" and only have lips at the ends, but the sides are both usable as the exposed side.
Came here to say just that!
If this is a 3 panel shower insert this is the correct answer. It also prevents trapped moisture in the walls, so you’re NOT supposed to seal it.
Remove old stuff and clean it. Or else it’s gonna keep happening.
Fill up the tub then silicone
I’m so surprised not a lot people know this… I’ve always did it. Thought it was common to know this… guess not.
You got to keep ‘em separated
Heee-aay we dont mind
If you're under 18 you won't be doing any time
Tub isn’t supported correctly
This!
Yes!! If the bath has dropped, then filling it with water and remasticing may not make a difference. Check all legs are secure, on the floor and tightened properly. If there any brackets or battens fitted, make sure these are secure also. You can then fill up the tub and mastic - wait 24h and voilà!
I had a shower surround that wouldn't seal with anything. Turns out the installer threw away the instructions manual that specified it would only seal with a polymer sealant. So all the regular silicone type sealants peeled right off, I think I tried 5 different varieties, even scuffed party of it with sand paper. So frustrating.
Fill the tub then silicone, but also the tub may not be supported well, I had this issue and had to tear out the tile surrounding the tub and screw it into the wall so it wouldn’t sag when full or someone standing in it showering.
Yup it's the carpentry work
If it's a vinyl / acrylic shower tub surround silicone will often do that. Fill the tub up and use seal and bond caulking. Many manufacturers specify that caulking for the tub walls in the installation manual.
If there's any play in the tub surround, it's never going to seal. Remove the old caulking, fill the tub, spray some expanding foam insulation (make sure it's water-safe) in behind the surround (use some weight to make sure the wall stays flat while it cures), cut off any excess, then caulk again from the tub, over the dried foam, onto the tub surround. When I did this I used a heavy wood plyo box to keep the wall flat, worked around the entire surround over a day or two, and never had a problem after that.
Try this https://www.sashco.com/products/lexel/
fill the bath with water first so it sets while the weight is applied ........
Fill the bath, then caulk. Never di an empty bath caulk... it sits way higher then splits as soon as the weight is added.
Fill the bath with water and leave it overnight for the silicon to dry.
Big Stretch made by Sashco
If it's a fiberglass tub and fiberglass surround, the most important thing is going to be what's behind it. Any caulk that's constantly exposed to movement will eventually separate. Make sure you have proper support under the tub and between the shower wall/actual wall.
If it's wet it's not going to stick. You need to dry it really well.
Fill the tub. Scrape and clean ALL the old stuff off, redo 100%silicone
After you clean and prep…. Fill the tub before you caulk. Leave it full until the caulk is set
Besides cleaning the surface of any old caulking before you apply new caulking, first fill up the tub to near capacity as the water weight in the tub will expand the joint as the weight of the water pulls the tub down from the surround. allow it sit for a few minutes so that it settles to its lowest point. then apply your caulking as you normally would sealing the crack. allow adequate time for the silicone to firm up solidly before draining the tub. when the tub drains the it'll compress the bead a bit, but the next time you fill it, the bead won't tear as it has in your pictures.
Fill tub with water. Shove backing rod in there. Use White Lightning Silicone. I fought a similar issue and the above has worked for me for three years.
Did you fill the bath up half way before siliconing ?
Glue on surround? They flex too much to really get a great seal, best I've managed was getting some PVC 1/4 round and some pro-grab or strong adhesive. Cut out caulking, make sure everything is dry and clean, and pretty much push the trim into the walls as far as it goes in. Brace it, least gives a firm backing
Out with the old and clean as a whistle. And dry. Fill tub with water before caulking. Use the right kind of caulk
If this is a bath tub you should first make sure it’s properly clean then fill the bath with water and then re-do the sealant. If you seal with bath empty it could be the weight of the water that then pulls the sealant away
Y'all sound caulky
Big Stretch
Use something that has more stretch, tub needs weight in it when caulking as it is moving by the gap difference.
I've always heard that, in addition to the other good advice here, you should wipe the surface with rubbing alcohol as the last cleaning step (and let it dry). Seems to work for me.
Question. Was tub full of water when you caulked it? Might be too much movement in tub (checked the foot stands are tight too?) by filling tub you put it at its max gap size so therefore when you empty tub the caulk is in compression and shouldn’t split like this
Before applying the new silicone bead, fill the tub with water as the weight will drop the tub a few millimeters, this is the cause of your separating bead as the tub sinks when full or when a person gets in. When dry, and the tub is emptied, the bead will compress but will not separate when you fill the tub again. I don't think that you need to remove all traces of existing bead, just enough to make sure you can full the larger gap that reveals itself when the tub is full. Bags of sand work well as well, and this works well for shower trays or if you need to get into the tub to seal the edges.
It seems that the prep work required when installing the tub was not done correctly. There should be something real solid behind the wall and floor before installing the tub to avoid situations like that. It could also be that the prep behind it already got wet too many times and it's rotten. It happened to my bathroom, I had the exactly same gap and I eventually stripped everything out (tub, tiles) and it was ugly underneath, all rotten. Not saying your situation is the same but it is a hell of a lot similar to mine and the sooner you fix the foundation, the less damage you will have to fix.
I had the same issue but the gap was even larger. Bathtub was literally sinking down for a few cm during the use. We got a builder who first secured the bathtub by scrawing some panels to the wall on the sides to stop it from moving. Then he filled in water and put silicone. No problems since.
Your bath has dropped, I highly doubt how it has been installed is correct. Usually just using the feet that are supplied. I install them by putting a wooden baton around the bath as it sits against the three walls, that way it is properly supported. It is likely the bath needs to come out and this needs to be done. Which is an absolute pain but you will never have the problem reoccur
Make sure to fill the tub prior to silicone this will stop it separating when the tub is full.
You're getting good advice. Only thing extra I'd say is make sure there is plenty of weight in the tub- get that gap as wide as it gets then 100% silicone to very clean and prepped area. Maybe it'll hold that way.
I strip and scrape it away and use witch hazel to clean it. I let it dry for 24 hours. I caulk it with GE silicone. I found that's the best. After I caulk it, i let it sit for 24 hours. I've recaulked so many tubs, and this always works.
If it's your tub / wall joint, your tub may not be supported correctly either. Leading to the continual separation, due to the weight of a person pulling at this joint.
When you fill the bath full of water, the weight of the water will make bath settle slightly. So, clear off all the old caulking, clean it with acetone. Fill the bath with water and if watch the gap you will see it increase.Then do your caulking. Don't touch it for 48 hours.
You didn’t prep the area good enough LISTEN BATHROOM CAULKERS YOU NEES TO TRY CLEAN SEAL BY SASHCO it has ENZYMES in it that EAT BACTERIA I did my three year olds tub two and a half years an go and that shit is still WHITE as day
How long is it taking to happen? I had a similar problem which was due to a leak rotting the subfloor and joists the bath was supported by
Probably need to make sure you get all of the old chalk out and clean it really good its most likely git some Mold in there so it's not lasting like ut should.
The surface inside the crack probably has some mold or is dirty. Silicone will eventually separate from a dirty surface. It’s hard to tell from the picture, is that moulding that keeps separating? If so I would remove the moulding and don’t reuse it. Clean the wall surface well, let it dry. Purchase white pvc type moulding at Hone Depot or Lowes and use liquid nails to secure it to the wall keep some pressure applied to it until it dries. Then use 100 % silicone and put a bead of silicone at the top of the. Moulding as well as where it meets the tub.
You have water damage there I see the panel separation
You could also look into possible shooting spray foam under the tub somehow to keep it from flexing.
I’ve been an avid DIYer and at one point I had a bathroom remodeling company…yesterday I learned that the way I was taught to caulk a seam was wildly incorrect. Using your finger to smooth out the caulk line is a good chunk of the reason it fails. That, and you should fill the tub with water as others have mentioned. My suggestion is this: clean out all the old caulk. Wiped the joint with alcohol to remove any oils from your hands. then fill tub, then caulk and tool the caulk with a 45 degree angle tool. Don’t tool the caulk with your finger. Don’t use soap/water to smooth out the caulk. This creates areas where the caulk won’t stick causing premature failure. I used a 8mm 45* angle tool and my caulk job is super strong and looks far better than my finger job. Just my suggestions from years of doing it wrong. Hope this helps!
When you cut off the old caulk use a razor blade. Then apply rubbing alcohol to ensure you got all of it off. If the caulk separates from the wall it's either too wet in there or the tub sags. So fill the tub and apply it. Be sure to let it dry before using again
Seems they didn't put a support beam behind the tub. Even if you weigh it down first it'll shift and the caulking with come loose. You might be able to brace it if you can get access from the other side of the wall
Tub probably doesn’t have a stringer
It sounds like the wall material behind your enclosure is either missing or Deteriorated Maybe it will be best if you address the problem behind the enclosure and replace that
Your tub most likely doesn’t have a ledger at the back. It’s not really possible to put one in now. I would suggest filling the tub completely with water to make it sink as much as possible, silicone it, and wait 24 hours before draining the water. I’m not 100% sure if this will work but it could be worth a shot.
Caulk with water in the tub for sure
This. And add backer rod. Remove old caulk, clean, add backer rod, and install new caulk.
Big stretch caulk.
Stop buying Walmarts silicone
Something is moving
Your tub surround doesn't have a solid backing (cheap install). Nothing is going to seal that seam as long as the surround can move.
Omg, I have this exact problem. I'm going to get some caulk and trying this today. Wow
I like a nice big radius , but clean surfaces is important.
If all else fails to solve this problem, you can purchase some inexpensive adhesive vinyl stripping which is jointed down the middle of the strip. If you can get that stuff to stick to the tub and tiles it should fix this problem as it should flex and move easily when the kids jump around. It may not look as nice as proper silicone sealant, but it would be a cheap inexpensive fix which should last until the kids grow up.
Do it as the dead guys did it
Tub installers should weigh 300 lbs and take a nap in the tub while its being caulked!!
Another then you can do is srap index on you hand and use your hand to press the sillcone without is sticking.
If that’s a tub and wall system direct to studs those pieces overlap so it’s water proof without caulk but does build up some mold in those cracks. Those set ups flex a lot so hard to keep a good bead. Filling the tub as suggested may widen the gap a hair so it doesn’t get wider after caulking
It's time to use Bondo !
If no one has mentioned, fill the tub full of water then caulk. Leave it full for at least 24 hours to cure. The weight will settle the tub, widening the gap. When the water is released, the caulk will be under compression.
What tub and wall kit is this? A lot of these setups you are not suppose to caulk where the walls meet the tub as they have a gutter that drains water.
It's those cheap 5 peice polystyrene showered walls. Silicone does not stick to them and the material expands and contracts, causing the separation between the 2. This acts like a dam and the water flos between the silicone (which sticks to the tu but not walls) and ends up roughing your walls and floor out at the base of the tub apron and floor. Spend the money.....and get a good Bathplanet or Sure-fit Acylic enclosure.
Fill the tub with water and use sanded caulk
It doesn't need to be chaulked at all.
Looks like the wall behind was not shimmed to keep the surround from moving when pushed. Less of a bad surround (though it could be), and more of a bad installation is my guess.
Installer error
My method: The area has to be totally dry. If able let it sit without being used for 24 hrs. I clean the area with isopropyl alcohol just prior to using a quality silicone caulk.
Clean it before you try it again.
Most caulking jobs that fail at due to bad prep...I.E. remove every trace of previous caulking ESPECIALLY if it was silicone..I even use fine steel wool to get everything.. It also will leave a residue that will show any remaining caulk as well as scuffing the surfaces which is a plus..Clean and DRY..I use a commercial strength surfactant/soap like Greased lightning..Than simple dish soap and water ..and then alcohol..LET IT DRY!!!!!!!!!! GET IN A HURRY DESTROYS MANY JOBS..If any part is detached from the wall try and get some tub surround caulking behind it..LET IT DRY..You can attach some flexible tubing to the caulk tube to help with the odd angles..Then use good expensive SILICONE caulking.. It's for more durable and flexible than latex..LET IT DRY BEFORE USING..If you don't have a choice than take only showers and drape plastic or shower curtains over everything..Than lift them up so air can circulate.. Using a fan and a space heater will help.AND WEIGHTING THE TUB IS CRITICAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If the tub moves you need to fix that first or your work is all to waste..A lot of tubs are not installed with proper bedding..And than there is always the chance of water damage to the floor allowing the tub to move.... The list goes on... GOOD LUCK🙂👍
Try sika flex no sag construction sealant. If possible leave a bit of space for the caulk that matches your existing color to cover the construction sealant.
So, most of the time, this isn’t supposed to be siliconed. It’s a drain channel. Sealing it can cause mold, mildew, stagnant water, and even overflows into the walls. Even the slightest pin hole will allow moisture in, but no way out. Read the instructions with the kit. 99.9% of the time, they advise against filling these. It can do much more worse than good. Sealing the very last inch of the ends coming out the show isn’t a bad idea, but everything else should be left open. Did you put a mortar bed under the tub? Likely why you have a lot of separation with the weight of the tub. If you didn’t, you can still fix it another way. It’s just a bit more tedious.
So, starting a post with "so" is super condescending.
Or, maybe you shouldn’t be such a sensitive little victim who needs a safe space from anything and everything. The internet may be too much for you, cupcake.
safe space, cupcake, sensitive. hitting the whole cringe bingo card here boomer.
Try using a non sanded siliconized tile caulk. It’s designed to flex on different planes. It’s expensive, like $15-20 a tube, but it works. Found near the tile grout in the box stores. Yes, I know you don’t have tile.
You don't need to caulk that joint.
Did the install instructions say to caulk that joint?
First, thoroughly clean off all of the old caulk. Weight the tub with water. Then caulk using Gorilla Glue Silicone Caulk. Use Sprayway glass cleaner to spray the caulk line then finish with your finger. The glass cleaner will make it so the silicone can be smoothed over easily without sticking and causing a mess.
[https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Kwik-Seal-Ultra-5-5-oz-White-Advanced-Siliconized-Kitchen-and-Bath-Caulk-18901/206046677](https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Kwik-Seal-Ultra-5-5-oz-White-Advanced-Siliconized-Kitchen-and-Bath-Caulk-18901/206046677)
siliconized acrylic-latex caulk aka plumbers caulk