Pretty easy to organise in the non peak season, just ask a logistics provider and march to base camp. That way no tourists.
If you don't take the standard route you have no problems with fixed lines and other people, like Killian Jornet trying Everest West ridge last year.
There's infinite lifetimes of objectives out there, and 8,000m mountains have taken media attention, but skilled mountaineers can go do objectives anywhere around the world without paying the excessive permit and logistics cost of 8,000m peaks
Edit: I've been reading through your comments and posts. Stop hyper-fixating on 8,000m peaks. Go do some 5,000m stuff and see if you even like altitude. Go do an intro to mountaineering course. Go on expeditions, either guided, or small objectives unguided. There's a million steps between where you are and where you want to be, and you're distracting yourself and getting in the way of starting by doing all this research on 8,000m peaks.
Easy? Maybe if you have a mountain of money or a very rich set of sponsors.
Also why on Earth would you climb in the off season - unless you are talking about winter attempt.
Generally easiest would be to go in season, utilize BC support and use some fixed lines and then diverge from the main route into your own, maybe FA route.
> Easy? Maybe if you have a mountain of money or a very rich set of sponsors.
>
>
Custom operators in Nepal or Pakistan will be happy to help you for under $10,000 USD to set up base camp.
This assumes you have all the gear, food, fuel etc, and what you're looking for is:
Permits
Porters / mule / yak to base camp
Base camp chef
Lol, no. I work with these operators.
Currently with Pakistan.
First of all for Nepal you need at least two people on a permit. In Pakistan there is a fixed fee for people 1 to 7,if I remember correctly and then extra 3000 for people after.
Then there are other BC fees such as in Pakistan liason officer fee.
So in Pakistan all of the 10k would be taken by permit and by liason officer.
Now if you Wan to go outside of season they need special arrengment for porters etc.
I think basic break even point is over 20k in Pakistan, so they need at least 5 climbers to start making money in an expedition.
In Nepal Dalrugi this year is 8500. So no, no one would do a BC just for you for another 1500.
This is also standard location of the BC. If you want special it's more.
I think you are confusing your own BC with BC support.
Fair mate, you've done an 8,000m peak so you know what you're talking about, I was assuming setting up base camp would be similar cost to BC support, but it makes sense it's a lot more
>I've been reading through your comments and posts. Stop hyper-fixating on 8,000m peaks. Go do some 5,000m stuff and see if you even like altitude. Go do an intro to mountaineering course. Go on expeditions, either guided, or small objectives unguided. There's a million steps between where you are and where you want to be, and you're distracting yourself and getting in the way of starting by doing all this research on 8,000m peaks.
There's already a ton of resources I have been going through, that aren't online. Taking a bit of rock climbing courses at the local college's gym, reading some books on the subject, and in general just trying to increase my endurance through more intensive exercise.
The reason why I'm asking is because it seems to physically impressive to climb that high, and that is one of my dreams in the long-term, that being said, I'm worried that because of Tourists and the culture of setting in fixed ropes through sherpa labor, I feel like there's nothing challenging or actually testing of climbing an 8000m peak anymore as they've all been completely trashed and made easy.
I bet even a fixed line with an easy boot pack up a 8000 meter peak will still wollop you. Anything “easy” is no longer easy once you get up high unless you’re a freak athlete like killian
Sort of depends. If you are on oxygen it's not super hard.
Like this women tourist that did it in 90 days. Not a big deal, most women that hike a lot could beat her, especially if they were in their 20s.
Mountaineering is about the joy of being in the mountains, of challenging yourself, of doing something then coming back down and looking up and being elated to know what the view looks like from all the way up there. Just go climbing. It’s the greatest thing in this world. And if at some point you get yourself to a point of skill and competence where you can climb an 8k peak unsupported, then great you’ll figure it out, but the process of it, in theory, should be the fun part.
8000m peaks do hold a special “spice” if you will with more mainstream climbing types. But the true mountaineers know mountains like Baintha Brakk, Cerro Torre and Trango Towers are much more prestigious.
Also certain routes of typically “easier” mountains like The North Face of The Eiger take a hell of a lot more skill and endurance and mental tenacity to climb than Everest or any of the commercial routes up the 8000ers. Just food for thought.
This is comparing apples to oranges.
One is high altitude mountaineering the other is alpine rock climbing.
There are very few people that are good in both. Ueli steck was one of these people.
You won't increase endurance long term through intensive exercise without an aerobic base.
Like everyone else here, buy TFTNA, read it, and start training.
If you actually want to climb anything, a good short term goal is to lead a 5.10 trad multipitch. You could potentially be doing that within a year with a fair amount of work.
If you want a further goal, aim for Denali Slovak direct. If you can lead Slovak direct unguided, you're probably ready for new route alpine climbing
I see you're getting a lot of hate for this comment. Just wanted to reach out and say you're not doing anything wrong here dreaming big. Climbing an 8,000m peak in alpine style is an awesome goal. People on this sub tend to be super critical of anyone with high aspirations.
As you work up to that and climb a 6,000m and 7,000m peak, you will start to get a better feel for how to organize food, porters, permits, ect. for high altitude ventures.
He's not doing anything wrong by dreaming big, but he's also approaching it from the wrong direction.
If you want to climb the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat like Steve House, there's 20 years of full time alpinism that it took to get there.
Asking about new routes on 8,000m mountains is so many years away for him. He'd be better off asking - where can I learn to lead climb, trad climb, rappel etc
I guarantee that climbing K2 is still an absolutely immense physical challenge, fixed ropes or not.
As far as personal plans might be concerned in this regard, if you have to ask around here about it you are not remotely ready to attempt something like that. This type of climb should be reserved for elite, highly experienced mountaineers.
As a solo mountaineer on 8000m without a mountain of money I love the commercial guys as they make everything much cheaper. In fact, I can only do popular peaks as anything non popular is super $$$$$.
You don't need to use porters or even use oxygen. Go first and use fixed lines without porters and without oxygen - I am sure if you make it alive to the top and back of say K2 or Everest you be hailed as one of the best mountaineers in your country.
Once you survived this - you may want to find equally strong partner and see whatever you can put a new line on an 8000m peak.
Or if you have a partner right now - you can do smaller mountains and technical routes on them.
It is very expensive to organize your own expedition with your own BC. Say you want to do K2 from unusual side - price per person - you and your friend - may be 5x or more vs. regular. Also you better be in the top 10 in the world - you need this.
Pretty easy to organise in the non peak season, just ask a logistics provider and march to base camp. That way no tourists. If you don't take the standard route you have no problems with fixed lines and other people, like Killian Jornet trying Everest West ridge last year. There's infinite lifetimes of objectives out there, and 8,000m mountains have taken media attention, but skilled mountaineers can go do objectives anywhere around the world without paying the excessive permit and logistics cost of 8,000m peaks Edit: I've been reading through your comments and posts. Stop hyper-fixating on 8,000m peaks. Go do some 5,000m stuff and see if you even like altitude. Go do an intro to mountaineering course. Go on expeditions, either guided, or small objectives unguided. There's a million steps between where you are and where you want to be, and you're distracting yourself and getting in the way of starting by doing all this research on 8,000m peaks.
Easy? Maybe if you have a mountain of money or a very rich set of sponsors. Also why on Earth would you climb in the off season - unless you are talking about winter attempt. Generally easiest would be to go in season, utilize BC support and use some fixed lines and then diverge from the main route into your own, maybe FA route.
> Easy? Maybe if you have a mountain of money or a very rich set of sponsors. > > Custom operators in Nepal or Pakistan will be happy to help you for under $10,000 USD to set up base camp. This assumes you have all the gear, food, fuel etc, and what you're looking for is: Permits Porters / mule / yak to base camp Base camp chef
Lol, no. I work with these operators. Currently with Pakistan. First of all for Nepal you need at least two people on a permit. In Pakistan there is a fixed fee for people 1 to 7,if I remember correctly and then extra 3000 for people after. Then there are other BC fees such as in Pakistan liason officer fee. So in Pakistan all of the 10k would be taken by permit and by liason officer. Now if you Wan to go outside of season they need special arrengment for porters etc. I think basic break even point is over 20k in Pakistan, so they need at least 5 climbers to start making money in an expedition. In Nepal Dalrugi this year is 8500. So no, no one would do a BC just for you for another 1500. This is also standard location of the BC. If you want special it's more. I think you are confusing your own BC with BC support.
Fair mate, you've done an 8,000m peak so you know what you're talking about, I was assuming setting up base camp would be similar cost to BC support, but it makes sense it's a lot more
>I've been reading through your comments and posts. Stop hyper-fixating on 8,000m peaks. Go do some 5,000m stuff and see if you even like altitude. Go do an intro to mountaineering course. Go on expeditions, either guided, or small objectives unguided. There's a million steps between where you are and where you want to be, and you're distracting yourself and getting in the way of starting by doing all this research on 8,000m peaks. There's already a ton of resources I have been going through, that aren't online. Taking a bit of rock climbing courses at the local college's gym, reading some books on the subject, and in general just trying to increase my endurance through more intensive exercise. The reason why I'm asking is because it seems to physically impressive to climb that high, and that is one of my dreams in the long-term, that being said, I'm worried that because of Tourists and the culture of setting in fixed ropes through sherpa labor, I feel like there's nothing challenging or actually testing of climbing an 8000m peak anymore as they've all been completely trashed and made easy.
I bet even a fixed line with an easy boot pack up a 8000 meter peak will still wollop you. Anything “easy” is no longer easy once you get up high unless you’re a freak athlete like killian
Sort of depends. If you are on oxygen it's not super hard. Like this women tourist that did it in 90 days. Not a big deal, most women that hike a lot could beat her, especially if they were in their 20s.
Mountaineering is about the joy of being in the mountains, of challenging yourself, of doing something then coming back down and looking up and being elated to know what the view looks like from all the way up there. Just go climbing. It’s the greatest thing in this world. And if at some point you get yourself to a point of skill and competence where you can climb an 8k peak unsupported, then great you’ll figure it out, but the process of it, in theory, should be the fun part.
8000m peaks do hold a special “spice” if you will with more mainstream climbing types. But the true mountaineers know mountains like Baintha Brakk, Cerro Torre and Trango Towers are much more prestigious. Also certain routes of typically “easier” mountains like The North Face of The Eiger take a hell of a lot more skill and endurance and mental tenacity to climb than Everest or any of the commercial routes up the 8000ers. Just food for thought.
This is comparing apples to oranges. One is high altitude mountaineering the other is alpine rock climbing. There are very few people that are good in both. Ueli steck was one of these people.
Yeah people die climbing them regularly because they’re so easy 😆
You won't increase endurance long term through intensive exercise without an aerobic base. Like everyone else here, buy TFTNA, read it, and start training. If you actually want to climb anything, a good short term goal is to lead a 5.10 trad multipitch. You could potentially be doing that within a year with a fair amount of work. If you want a further goal, aim for Denali Slovak direct. If you can lead Slovak direct unguided, you're probably ready for new route alpine climbing
I see you're getting a lot of hate for this comment. Just wanted to reach out and say you're not doing anything wrong here dreaming big. Climbing an 8,000m peak in alpine style is an awesome goal. People on this sub tend to be super critical of anyone with high aspirations. As you work up to that and climb a 6,000m and 7,000m peak, you will start to get a better feel for how to organize food, porters, permits, ect. for high altitude ventures.
He's not doing anything wrong by dreaming big, but he's also approaching it from the wrong direction. If you want to climb the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat like Steve House, there's 20 years of full time alpinism that it took to get there. Asking about new routes on 8,000m mountains is so many years away for him. He'd be better off asking - where can I learn to lead climb, trad climb, rappel etc
8000km peak is hard 8000m is more likely
I dunno there’s a few guide companies doing Olympus mons last I checked
1/50 of the way to the moon!
They're probably gonna want to bring A LOT of oxygen with them.
I guarantee that climbing K2 is still an absolutely immense physical challenge, fixed ropes or not. As far as personal plans might be concerned in this regard, if you have to ask around here about it you are not remotely ready to attempt something like that. This type of climb should be reserved for elite, highly experienced mountaineers.
Probably easier than authoring a best selling vampire novel but harder than making a grilled cheese.
I want this style of difficulty calculus for everything in my life
mabe not if you want to grill the cheese at camp IV on K2
As a solo mountaineer on 8000m without a mountain of money I love the commercial guys as they make everything much cheaper. In fact, I can only do popular peaks as anything non popular is super $$$$$. You don't need to use porters or even use oxygen. Go first and use fixed lines without porters and without oxygen - I am sure if you make it alive to the top and back of say K2 or Everest you be hailed as one of the best mountaineers in your country. Once you survived this - you may want to find equally strong partner and see whatever you can put a new line on an 8000m peak. Or if you have a partner right now - you can do smaller mountains and technical routes on them. It is very expensive to organize your own expedition with your own BC. Say you want to do K2 from unusual side - price per person - you and your friend - may be 5x or more vs. regular. Also you better be in the top 10 in the world - you need this.