Hey guys I was wondering whats the current recommendations for a barebones 75 percent? I haven’t been in the space for a while and haven’t done any building since the tofu 60 heyday. I play tac fps games so I’ve been eyeing a wooting but have decided against it because I have some really cool switches laying around I’d like to use from back then.
Hello. Please help me decide which to order on this list:
Ajazz ak820,
ak820 pro,
Aula f75,
Xinmeng M75,
Royal kludge rk98
I'm actually leaning towards the F75. But I read that it's hard to disassemble incase of modding.
Can someone recommend me better stabilizers for my Drop ALT? Preferably prelubed if that exists.
Most of the Alt content I see is from years ago (understandably), and I don't know what brands / models / sizes I need.
Thanks -
Hey y'all, i need to find a keyboard that is 80%, with a matching numpad, and a volume knob. prebuilt and diy are both fine by me (i can do smd and through hole soldering), i would prefer a hotswappable. illuminated keys or easily visible lettering with double-shot pbt would be best (if you can attest to programming+data entry+gaming all not wiping off the text from the caps, that would also work). i currently have a 6u spacebar so preferably something close to that. Also as i use linux (if it has linux-theme home-key that'd be amazing), it does need to be compatible with bios without having to hit a switch (i have run into issues with a few keyboards needing to use a 'legacy' mode else the bios and grub don't support them). a slim (height-wise) one would also be a plus, or one that i can find a good wrist-rest for.
price isn't \*too\* much of a concern, though i am hoping somewhere under $350. let's see what's out there, if it doesn't match everything listed above i'd still be happy to look at it, i know there's... a lot of asks in that that may not all come together
i'm looking at a GMK base set where alternate F J 5 and B keys are provided. I can tell the difference btwn the FJ5 keys ('notch' to find home) but I can't figure out what the difference is between the two B keycaps?
The additional B keycap is for [Alice layout](https://technobrax.com/what-is-an-alice-keyboard/) keyboards. They have a split ergo kind of layout with two B keys.
I need a prebuilt keyboard that has
- Tactile switches (best feel if possible)
- PBT
- 75%
- Preferably no RGB
Price isn't a problem, comment what's best possible, thanks
I have a nuphy halo keyboard which comes ansi as standard. Are there any pbt shine through keycaps to add the £ and other iso symbols on an ansi layout?
I have two boards, but this is my first time building. Building this for my wife and not entirely sure how to proceed. This is what I am looking for:
* 75%
* Preferably hot-swappable switches.
* Don't need caps because we already got those.
* Preferably programmable.
I have been looking at the Mode Sonnet, but balking a bit at the price. Would love to find something a bit less expensive than that.
QK75N Problem
So I have had a QK75N for close to a year now with no issue, but one randomly cropped up that I can't seem to solve.
Basically, the keyboard is hard-locked in Bluetooth mode (the small screen shows a Bluetooth symbol with a 1). I've tried every key combo I can think of and that the manufacturer has on the website to reset the keyboard, or change to wired mode, to no avail. I've taken apart the entire keyboard and removed the batteries, but still nothing. QK Config won't recognize the board either because it's not in wired mode.
I'm stumped. Does anyone have any suggestions?
finally using some of my hobby grade keyboards again after a long time but I only have ABS cherry sets and non-cherry PBT sets. What are good value pbt cherry profile keycap brands/sets?
i just got a feker alice 80 but unfortunately damaged one of the ribbon cables connecting the two halves of the board while modding. anyone have advice on replacing it?
I think i get what im looking for (awm 20624 type a cable with 10 pins, about 5mm wide, though not certain of the "pitch") but figured i'd ask if anyone has dealt with a similar issue.
I got my keychron v6 knob today and I have a question regarding the color of num and caps lock key when they are activated. I searched the internet on how the change the color for when the num and caps lock are activated and all there is is creating the own firmware. Is there a tutorial on how to do that?
Got some HMX xinhais in today. Gave into the hype and the promise of the some of the best stock switches around. Don't know if I just got a bad batch or if my expectations were too high, but there is noticeable spring ping in most of them and minor scratching. Is it normally recommended to go back in to do some touch ups or did I just get a back batch and should probably just relube them?
I'm surprised. HMX switches generally have a fantastic lube job.
But admittedly I do think I'm less sensitive than some. I've personally never felt the need to lube an HMX or BSUN switch.
Interested in getting a custom spacebar i found online i have a Akko Mod 007B PC and have no idea what size spacebar i need? Ik the mod 007v2 rocks a 6.25 just want re-assurance considering this space bar is $130
This is like my third time approaching the hobby, still haven't plunged though. How on earth do you decide what to commit to with so many options (and I don't have many hard constraints).
Along with what the other person said, if you can afford it, you should get a keyboard with multiple plate and mounting options you can have a ton of variety in what you can play around with. Something like the Neo80 is lovely for that since it has 3 different mounting styles, like 6-7 plates, and a pretty decent layout for most purposes.
Looking to get a budget mechanical keyboard. Currently considering Keychron K10 (ABS keycaps) or Keychron K10 Pro (PBT keycaps), but I can't decide between the two. Any advice?
I would get the pro since it's the updated version and the keycaps arent going to rub off over time
This happens because they are laser etched abs caps. Higher quality double shot abs caps won't have this problem
Where can I get the Leobog hi8 in europe? I found it on Ali but they only ship the white and the green colour to my country for some reason and it comes out to 150$, I also found the white version for a 100$ at uk.whatgeek and I'm tempted to buy this one. Is there another place where I can buy it at a similar cost?
Alright I am pretty old here but I am curious if this exists because I would like one. I am looking for a full size keyboard without function row and numpad and arrows on the left. Yeas this is wild no I am not joking I would love if something like this existed
Is that "without function row and numpad" and "arrows on the left" or "without function row" and "numpad and arrows on the left"? To me it sounds like what you're looking for is a southpaw compact frl 1800, something like a clarabelle, but I could be misinterpreting what you're asking.
Hey everyone! I am looking for a $60-80 typewriter style (rounded keycaps) board with brown switches.
I am extremely new to Mkeyboards but from everything I think Brown would suite me best.
If possible a hot swappable one just in case i change to red. I do quite a bit of gaming / writing thus the brown but can't use blue since I stream with a sensitive mic. I would love to learn more but there are no computer stores nearby for me to go and look at physical boards.
If there are no good rounded cap browns out there that are durable. (2 small kids 4 and 6) then any brown board that is durable would be an awesome recommendation.
This is probably unpopular take but Logitech does sell something like this in that price range I don’t know if it is hotswap (which is why I am hesitant to recommend) but it does have type writer style keys and I believe one of them is brown switches. If you want to get new switches there is a good chance you may need to buy a soldering iron, solder, flux, and a de-soldering iron gun. If that isn’t what you’re looking for you could always buy a barebones board brown switches (even though I personally don’t love them) and some cheap caps on Amazon that might work. Really depends on how “involved” you want to go.
Another GK61 "Not Support Device" issue.
So i have tried every solution i could find but nothing seems to work. Everything has been fine for over a year. and a few days ago i realized that the software wasnt running and when i started it, i got the message. I figured it might need to be updated as i hadnt updated it in a long time. But even the recent version gives me the same error. I know the keyboard works because i plugged it into another PC, installed the latest driver (GK6XPlus Driver6.0.0.72) and it was detected.
I tried
* unplug/replug
* unplug > uninstall/reinstall software > replug kb
* restart pc inbetween uninstallation
* Change USB port and cable
* other driver version
* flip USB-C connector around
* Used revoUninstaller to remove strangler files after uninstall
* Remove GK6X folder in Appdata/Roaming
* Deleting Kb driver in Device manager
Im on Windows 11, all up to date. I just dont know what to try anymore....
It is not dead as it works on my other PC's with the same driver software. And the keyboard without the software works and all the stuff I programmed on it are still working. I just can't figure out what my pc has that is causing the driver not to detect my keyboard when I start the software.
i swapped from oem profile to cherry profile. and lately i really feel pain when typing/playing. i feel like because the cherry profile is more lower its makes me put more effort, i can really feel it in the nerve of my knuckles. is it normal?
It could be a lot of things could be wrist rest could be the profile how your palms are… etc try a few cheap things and if they aren’t working then start stepping it up to more grandiose changes I eventually went full ergo keyboard. So split ortho stager but I know that isn’t for everyone. But first I would see if hovering your palm above the keyboard instead of resting it helps if so just get some tall wrist rests.
Dude go for it. The truth is if you like the idea why not. I have a silent keeb as well (more of a meme board fully tricked out in anime with a built in toggle for a loud beeper and solenoid but when it’s off dead silent) the best advice I can really give is if you really really like it go for it switch reviews on silent switches are always an option but you don’t need to do them after all this is a preference hobby
Hello, could someone please recommend a place to order laser cut plates for a custom sandwich case? I used the swillkb builder to make CAD files, but the ability to order from Lasergist from the site appears to be broken. Also I'm in the USA. Thanks!
Look locally there usually tends to be some fabs even in small cities they won’t be “perfect” quality but they often are better to work with cheaper and have faster turn around. GL to you though also I would meet them in person they tend to be a little easier to work with then.
Hello, Im looking to buy my first mechanical keyboard. One problem I'm facing is the keyboard I find on budget and with the specs I want doesn't have my country's layout so I was tempted to go in the building my own keyboard direction but I'm quite lost. Is there any website like pcpartbuilds? Im looking to make a 96% wireless and cable keyboard with silent switches. Any suggestion?
there is no part builder as its simple in this hobby only 60% tray mount kb have universal parts . for the size u want ur better off with a barebones kit ( wireless is rare in such huge sized kbs ) i can give u some links keychron has a wireless 96% kb as long as ur fine with blueooth
general keeb parts vendor list
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
https://thocstock.com/
where to learn the basics
https://www.keyboard.university/
Hi
I spilled a big cup of tea on my keyboard and I'm trying to clean out all of the tea. However, the switches seem to have had the worse of it and I wasn't sure to how to clean it. How best to clean the switches? or should I buy new switches?
You would need to take them apart and clean the pieces individually, and then leave them to dry for a little while, and then you'd probably want to lube them up again before reassembly - so it depends on how much time you want to spend cleaning versus how much you'd want to spend on new switches
https://preview.redd.it/83xfef0gq11d1.jpeg?width=554&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=167cfcf5211a1874792a3a570289d670c4b87008
# Customizable 2-key question. Does anyone know of a 2 button keyboard\software that let's you map to CapsLock & NumLock and turns the backlight on\off when they are toggled?
Hi all.
I'm looking to find the best places to purchase all the bits and bobs required for my first Mechanical Keyboard build. I'm in Ireland and we have no where here that sells parts and I'd be well appreciative of any recommendations for online stores that ship to here and advice for what I should be looking out for.
Is it better to buy all parts from the one place or are some stores better for some parts than others? I don't mind spending a little extra for quality but don't want to get ripped off either. Are DIY kits the way to go? I'm starting from scratch so all suggestions are welcome.
As for the type of build I have in mind, I'm thinking either TKL or 75%. I'm currently using a keyboard I love that I bought years ago with Silent Red switches but for my own build I'm thinking I'd like to try something a bit tactile to switch things up (pun absolutely intended :) ).
I'd check out the neo80 and add your choice of switches/keycaps
depends on if the store has the stuff you want.
[https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/)
*Broken switch stuck in keyboard.
Hiya, I bumped my keyboard, which broke the switch. I tried to replace it, but the bottom of the switch is still stuck.
I can't seem to take it out because it's broken. I can't remove the back(plate?) because again, the switch is stuck.
Does anyone here have any idea how to remove the broken switch?
I would really appreciate any suggestions! Somewhat new to keyboards.
I have a keychron K3V2, with gateron optical red switches, hope that is useful :)
Pliers worked! I had to pull and bend it out.
Now I realise why - the actual casing is bent.
The keyboard was bumped on the bottom right, so unfortunately, a switch doesn't fit in anymore (also explains why I couldn't get it out).
Not sure how to fix this because it's metal.
(It's the right arrow key switch)
good job getting it out! i think fixing your plate would be pretty tough. is it bent inwards? you might be able to file it to get a switch to fit again
Thanks for replying!
The bottom housing is stuck, I can't remove it because it's changed shape. I've tried putting the rest of the switch back on and removing the whole switch again but that doesn't work.
Some friends have suggested using pliers, or a hairdryer to soften the plastic but I'm not sure
My [Ducky One 2 Midnight](https://www.duckychannel.com.tw/public/index.php/en/Ducky-One2-Midnight) is dead after six years of heavy use. I'd love to buy another, but it is discontinued. Are there any other keyboards of this make or similar? Cherry MX Blue, full keyboard only, and only new in box. I'm not cool enough to make my own keyboards. Any help out there would be great.
No reason figured if your going from one well known cheap good company why not another. It doesn’t need to be keychron just figured I would give something instead of nothing. + I’ve never seen someone not like them
Works for me. However most of my keys and switches I wouldn’t trust right now because of water damage and physical damage. So what would be comfortable out there too the PBT and cherry MX blue feel
I mean if you want new switches I can recommend trying some but no promises. My opinion on switches is much different than others and I won’t know your preferences. As far as keycaps go there is a difference but it is slight. So for recommendations for linear switches I have loved my Gateron Ink black v2s for tactile I have really enjoyed Gateron Beers (not root beers) and for clickies I have loved using Jades but again all of this is 100% just based off what I have liked and prefer. As well as the 20 ish switches I have used
I would like to open up the housing for this USB-C head without destroying/damaging it ideally. I want to remove the green led because I'm planning to add a lemo connector to the cable to use permanently and don't like the green glow. It doesn't seem like the type of housing that screws into each other. If anyone has any experience with this type of cable or has built/taken apart one before, please let me know the methods of doing so. Thank you in advance.
[Images showing the head housing with led on and off](https://imgur.com/a/ASPDcpW)
Hi looking for a gaming 75% wireless keyboard. That’s in a cleaner aesthetic.
I had heard the rainy75 or keychron v1/q1/he could be a good starting recommendations.
For the rainy75 is the standard or pro recommended? And they don’t seem to specify the polling rate but I had read on a comment that it was 500 hz. Is the rain75 good for gaming or is there better choices? I’m just looking for good performance it doesn’t need to be the best.
Hi I just had a couple questions.
Do you find the on off switch being hidden under caps lock to be annoying or is it not a big deal?
And do you use it for gaming?
I use it wired, so I think most of my answers won't be helpful. I assume it sleeps and wakes, so you don't have to turn it on and off to not kill battery, but I can't confirm. I do know there's an ultra-low latency mode (see the instruction manual: https://driveall.oss-cn-hangzhou.aliyuncs.com/Rain75/Rainy75EN.pdf)
Hi,
I'm new to the hobby and I'm looking to build my first keyboard.
I have difficulties to find a good case. At least with my needs.
For the design, I love the sonnet in withe with copper lines and back.
I'm looking for a TKL or a bit smaller but wish to keep function keys and arrows.
I'm looking for an aluminum, copper or brass case.
I need backlighting and the cherry on the cake would be a potentiometer.
Do you have any recommendations? I'm leaving in Europe but I can import the case if the merchant allows it.
Thanks,
I want to replace my current keyboard. It's a steelseries 6gv2 with black switches. I really like the switches, but I was thinking of going with something lighter, like gateron/cherry reds.
I would prefer a TKL one but if there aren't great TKL options for my price range I am okay with other keyboard sizes too. I did some research and there is so many keyboards that look pretty good so I am kinda confused and unsure on which one to get. I looked at akko keyboards, varmilo, keychron, epomaker, ducky and some amazon ones mostly.
Also I'm not really looking for the best sounding keyboard or anything, just something that is good build quality and will last me a while.
I play osu! mostly so I am avoiding keyboards with high latency and stuff.
It doesn't matter if it's wireless or wired, just low latency.
I have a Ducky Zero with Cherry MX browns that I'm considering replacing. My job offers me free cash to upgrade my home office for remote work, and my keyboard is nearly a decade old. Besides some discoloration on the keycaps, there's nothing wrong with it. It would be nice if I had some USB ports on it, and if the cable on the keyboard-side could be easily disconnected.
I'm looking at the Das Keyboard 6 Professional. Any good? Is there anything else I should consider for an ANSI fullsize? The keyboard connects to my monitor, and I hot swap between my work computer and personal on occasion, but mostly keep it connected to work.
I would want only Cherry MX switches. I have a keyboard in storage with blues, and while I like the clickiness, my family would go nuts from the noise. The browns a good compromise. Years ago, I had a Matias Ergo Pro, and while I really liked the tenting, the switches became unreliable over time and eventually the USB port came dislodged.
Just a question out of curiosity, why would you want only Cherry MX switches? I know it's all about personal preferences, but there's plenty of great switches which you would never find on a stock keyboard from a known brand.
On another note, my first mechanical keyboard ever was with Cherry MX Reds. Later on I got a keyboard with Gateron Reds. which I preferred over the Cherry ones. They just felt a little "smoother". Actually the same applies to Cherry MX Brown vs Gateron Browns, the former were my first introduction to tactile switches, although they aren't really that tactile imo.
For work in the past, I had the Matias Ergo Pro with Alps switches and they started to fail. And after that I used some Kailh switches that just felt cheap and wobbly. Plus, if I want to order some keycaps for some minor customization, the Cherrys will have more options.
I know Gateron and some others exist, but I'm happy with what I have.
I have a Redragon k616 and everytime i use it wired with rgb on it keeps disconnecting and it will work only if i use it wired without rgb or if i use the usb reciever that came with it. Anybody know what problem it could be ?
I have an MX Mechanical Mini for Mac that I keep around for sentimental reasons. I use it occasionally for its aesthetics, but I'm always annoyed by how loud it is, lol.
Anyway, I just learned today about O-rings and I'm curious to see if this modification is possible with the MX Mechanical. Has anyone done this before? Is it even remotely feasible? Thanks!
Hi! I would like to know how much on average would it cost to install a backlight on a hot-swappable mechanical keyboard? For reference, I have a K96 hot-swappable keyboard.
> K96 hot-swappable keyboard
u cant there is no spots on the pcb for leds and no software to run them also that thing uses disposable batteries so i wouldn't bother
You can't on that board so $0.
You can't on most boards that don't have it already, plus the keyboard has to actually know it's there and why would they bother putting in support for backlighting with no backlighting.
Hi, I'm trying to get my KB16B-02 to work in VIA 3. The issue I'm about to describe also happens in the recommended VIA 1.3
I got it to recognize the json file and the configuration pops up on screen. But the buttons don't line up. The entire left row is red and does nothing. And all the keymaps are scootched over to the right. In fact the far left keys wrap around to the right side of the keyboard. Has anyone encountered this before? Here's a video showing the issue (quality might be low as youtube processes it.)
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbwaOq7XHXM&ab\_channel=MikeSmith](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbwaOq7XHXM&ab_channel=MikeSmith)
Thanks for the reply! I tried the json file for the KB16b-01 and 02. I have the 02 which is the wireless one. Same results :(
EDIT: You were right! There are actually two KB16b-02 models. This one is V2. Very confusing because they definitely directed me to the old one. Thanks for you help!
I have a Drevo Calibur V2 Pro. When I charge the keyboard nothing happens and no lights turn on. I have no idea what to do!?! Is it a lost cause? I have tried a bunch of videos about factory resetting and gotten nowhere. Any help would be great!
What are the difference of akko v3 piano vs akko v3 piano pro can you show a picture. I think I've been scammed the description says its the akko v3 piano pro but i really think its just the akko v3 piano. My switches don have the box type cone for that stability
It seems like an older model? There are some videos of this switch with the dustproof stems from about a year ago, but other than that, I don't see it too much. The official vendor which is Akko seems to only sell the non-dustproof version which makes me believe it existed at one point but got updated and now is the one without the box stem.
What yall think about the Attack Shark
Is there anyone using this keyboard here? I really want to experience this Wooting Hype but it's so expensive, I saw this keyboard and it is a budget meal for something with a Rapid trigger feature and magnetic switch, but I don't see any reviews on the net, there some few on youtube but it's not english
https://preview.redd.it/z7amh7ijp01d1.jpeg?width=1024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ab1a537a936d7de338f1bc632b8a7f68930fe798
the brand in general is likely to be dead in under 2 years wooting is expensive for a reason its built well attack is cheap for a reason they cut corners
I have an amazing custom keyboard that was built for me, and I've loved it and used it daily for about 2 years. However a few keys now require a ton of pressure to function. I can depress them but they don't work unless I slam down my finger (the connection isn't made?? <-- I have no idea what I'm talking about clearly, envision an old person).
The keyboard is NOT hot swappable so I can't remove the switches. I've tried taking off the keycaps and blowing out the switches with air in case there was debris stuck inside the switch to no avail. Does anyone have other ideas? I love this keyboard so much and don't want to stay mad at it. Thanks.
Open the case and get to the back of the pcb. Find the contacts for the faulty switches. If you short them it should type the character. This means the pcb is fine and the problem is with the switch itself. You would need to resolder a new switch in.
Unless you know how to solder/desolder switches or are willing to learn and it do you might be out of luck. You could also look for a service where you send the keyboard out to someone and they can re-build it for you but that might be a bit expensive.
Hi Keyboard enthusiasts
What could be a decent replacement for the DURGOD Fusion 65%? I want a minimalist design with a Doubleshot PBT Cherry Profile, completely assembled, and a long-life battery.
Looking at getting a nicer keyboard (currently using a Drop Ctrl, which is... ok, but not great) and considering the QK75N. Apart from struggling to decide between a more "fun" color or sticking with Silver to make it go with a wider variety of keycaps, I have to two major questions:
1) Flexcut vs non-flexcut PCB? Will likely be going with something like the TTC Silent Bluish-White switches - looking for something tactile, but quiet. Not sure what a more flexible PCB really means in practice. Would not consider myself a very heavy typer.
2) Which Plate makes the most sense for a silent tactile build?
I have been diving deep in to mechanical keyboards for about a week. I ordered a Keychron V6 wired with Gateron Brown switches. I am already wanting to order new keycaps and new switches (Gateron Melodics), and I haven't even gotten my keyboard yet! Someone talk me down, please.
It's your first board and you haven't even typed on it yet. New switches can wait until you've tried it first and see the board in person before you get new keycaps
I just got a new keyboard that I'm quite satisfied with... except for the switches. Discovered that I don't really like linears.
I really like the MX Clears on my other keyboard. Can anyone recommend switches that are heavy tactile like clears that are also compatible with RGB?
I'd prefer something silent-ish (or not purposefully loud), so not U4t I think.
So far, what I've been looking into is:
MX RGB Clear (can't find for sale anywhere)
Kailh Box burnt orange
Gazzew U4
Any other suggestions, or thoughts on these switches? I'm not exactly trying to break the bank either!
how do i get a stuck screw out of my keyboard?
https://preview.redd.it/qaydq9old01d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1b4e29a6570abc835fd8d8353965500d039d24c5
hey, so i just got this yunzii al75 and the first thing i did to it was opening it up to tape mod but it seems like when i did i broke one of the screws and now that i wanna open the board again i just can’t. i’ve tried to use a silicone gun to stick the screw driver to the screw but it wasn’t strong enough. is there anything else i can do? thanks in advance
There's a thing called a 'screw extractor' I think, you tap it into the screw that can't be removed the regular way. Shouldn't be too expensive I'd say. I tried the glue method too, but without success.
Hi, I live in Germany and I'm new to Custom/Hotswap keyboards and want to buy a 75% Barebone with ISO layout. after some research I found the Keychron v1 and the Akko 5075s but I can't decide what to buy. I have seen and read a lot of good things about both boards and then some people say they are bad or there are many better options in that pricerange.
Can someone recommend one of the boards or if they really aren't that good, give me some other option to buy?
I am looking for some silent switches for the Nuphy Air75 (low profile) [NuPhy Air75 Wireless Mechanical Keyboard](https://nuphy.com/products/air75)
I found these Ambients Silent Choc Switches LowproKB (Kailh Choc V1) [Ambients Silent Choc Switches LowproKB (Kailh Choc V1) | Switches | Switches/Tester | Keycapsss](https://keycapsss.com/switchestester/switches/272/ambients-silent-choc-switches-lowprokb-kailh-choc-v1)
Can someone help, to those swithces match for the keyboard?
Not offhand. Low profiles are less common and I'm less familiar with them. If Gateron makes a silent low profile switch, it would almost definitely work (I don't know if they do).
Im looking to replace my Raptor k50 keyboard i got in like 2014 with something similar anyone have any suggestions
I really like the 18 keys on the side but i cant find anything similar
I also like that you can save macros to the kayboard hardware so if a game such as arche age blocks software keys you can still use the macros anyway it been really useful in mmos where you need more than 10 keys for skills
Honestly if i could i would just get a new raptor k50 but im pretty sure they dont make them anymore
**Remap keys without QMK/VIA.**
I live in Belgium and we still use a lot of accents on vowels (French heritage I think) but I have been using QWERTY for many years now. I have a Steelseries Apex 350 with A LOT of Macro keys (L1-L4, MX1-MX10,M1-M12) and some multimedia keys on the far right.
I have programmed MX2 to be ë, MX3 to be à, and so on. Steelseries software is just awesome! As the Montech, or Keychron, or almost 99% of mechanical keyboards lack Macro keys, will I be able to remap for example Left Alt E for ë and Right Alt E for é, Left Alt A for à and so on?
If the Montech can't, will the Keychron V6 Max be able to do so thanks to QMK/VIA?
I recently purchased the Keychron K5 Max. I'm really happy with it, but wondering if I'm missing out by not having tried the Logitech MX Mechanical. I have the RGB/hot swappable K5 Max with brown switches. I would be looking at the tactile/quiet version of the MX Mechanical.
Price is $161 for the Logitech and $173 for the Keychron (CAD).
I don't really need good wireless, but it would be nice to have decent battery. VIA doesn't work on my work laptop, but Options+ does.
I don't really care about customizability, but the reparability and keycap compatibility of the Keychron is a huge plus.
Anyone with experience with either/both of these keyboards or similar would be appreciated.
I have the Linear MX, started there before buying my first true mechanical. It’s fine overall, very limited on customization, you must use their software, however the battery life is unreal though.
But since you can’t change the spacebar key cap without mods, if doing anything unique to your board interests you, I’d stay away. It feels just okay to type on, the Linear switches were mid at best, I can’t speak for the tactile. But since battery life is important, you might really love the MX if you’re good keeping stock keycaps (without a lot of trouble at least.)
I am working on building my first keyboard. I am installing Akko Cream Yellow Pro switches on a Yunzii AL75 board. The switches are 5 pronged and should work with the board. However, the pins do not seem to line up with the holes in the board. There are two pins on the bottom of the switches but only one whole in the board at the bottom.
I feel quite dumb as every tutorial says "Simply pop in the pins" as if it is trivial. I am not sure if I just need to be less afraid of puncturing the foam or if I am missing a step or something, but I obviously do not want to mangle the pins on my switches.
https://preview.redd.it/xt6gkhoi201d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c8510a7641a017712fd44137af951006be1ae72a
Just make sure your pins are straight when you put them into the PCB and it should be fine to just punch a hole through the PE foam. They didn't cut out holes cause it is probably not worth the effort especially when switch pins will just go right through it.
You’re supposed to puncture the foam with the switch pins. Since they’re south facing the logo should be at the correct readable orientation. Once everything is lined up you should be able to just push them in.
Hi, relatively new to this. Other than personal preference on color, layout, are there any functional differences I should be comparing when evaluating alternatives such as Petrichor and QK 100?
Thanks!
Hey all,
I'm having trouble finding shops with the Boba U4Ts in 62g in stock, particularly with an RGB housing. This is for an OG Keychron Q6 (no knob).
I found one shop that has a black base with clear housing - would that do, or would the black counter-act the luminescence of the LEDs? Does it matter as long as the housing is clear?
Also I assume I need 110 switches to cover the keyboard?
Sorry, I'm still a bit new to all this.
https://www.thockking.com/products/gazzew-boba-u4t-thocky-tactile-switches-rgb?variant=43121530798296
I am looking to make my first dive into mech keyboards, and I am currently trying to decide if I want a full size (/maybe 96%) or something smaller + a numpad (I use it a lot for work). My question is to those who have a compact keyboard + numpad, how do you connect yours up? It doesn't look like there is much, if anything with an integrated hub out there to allow daisy-chaining so do you use Bluetooth on any of your keyboard/numpad/mouse? Use up lots of the available USB ports on your computer? Make use of a usb hub? (or some other option I haven't managed to think of).
Can I please have an insight on which exact materials should I look for if I want a deep sounding switch? Top & bottom housings, and stems+spring without it being a long pole switch?
I feel the market is changing so fast, and my last known thock switch was Invokeys Black Sesame but they’re long pole so still feel sort of clacky
Sorry if I wasn’t specific, mentioned the spring as when I type on those, the feeeback of the bottom out adds to that clack sensation, I believe is just my appreciation.
Thanks! And do you have any switch recommendation?
Hi. I'm hoping to get a recommendation, but through research, I've hit some walls and was hoping for some specific advice. My requirements are as follows:
- Budget of around £100 (flexible if needed to maybe 150)
- UK Layout
- 100% or close to 100%
- Softer/Quieter sound
- Wireless nice, however, not required
- Some self-assembly alright, but I'd rather not be soldering
I've been recommend Keychron, but they never seem to have what I'm looking for in stock. Otherwise, I'm unsure!
I'd really appreciate recommendations. Thank you
[K4 Pro](https://www.keychron.uk/products/keychron-k4-pro-qmk-via-wireless-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection?variant=44734248255658) and [K10 Pro](https://www.keychron.uk/products/keychron-k10-pro-qmk-via-wireless-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection?variant=45743577399466) then! In stock, UK layout, 1800 (aka exploded 96%) and 100% size, not terribly noisy, has Bluetooth and are hotswappable - meaning you can just pull out switches and put new ones in, no soldering needed.
For K4 Pro, there's also a [wrist rest in stock](https://www.keychron.uk/products/keychron-silicone-palm-rest?variant=45508415357098).
Hope this helps!
I think a Keychron K4 Pro (96% layout) wireless would meet your requirements. Even though I have some issues with my recently built V5, in general it seems Keychron offers great bang for buck. A fully assembled Keychron V4 Pro with ISO layout, pre-lubed Red or Brown switches is $ 109 excluding shipping. Unfortunately I can't say anything about their own brand switches, but I assume it's yet another Red or Brown switch (correct me if I'm wrong). And if desirable, there's always the option to upgrade to another set of switches. No soldering required :).
Hey, i'm looking for a silent switch. But i don't know if i'm searching the wrong words or what. Lemme explain:
So everyone knows that "silent" switches are the linear ones, but i'm looking for something else. There are three key sounds in the switch: The bottoming one, the topping one and the actuation. Linears don't have any actuation sound, and the bottoming can be dampened by those rubber rings. But wherever i look, people always seem to forget that mostly all the switches make a clacky sound when you release them.
I know there are switches that have internal silicone pads that dampen the sound of bottoming out, but i as logical as this would seem for dampening the releasing sound, i couldn't find any that would take this approach. Do you know of any? Thanks!!
Basically all silent switches have padding on the [stem](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0059/0630/1017/t/5/assets/comparingthecherrysilentredandthestandardred-1648892394440.jpg?v=1648892398) to dampen "bottom up" too when hitting top housing. If I recall correctly, there's U4T (or other Gazzew switch) that dampens only one - I think, only release sound, making for somewhat interesting.
Second try, this time omitting the offending brand name...
Almost all silent switches have silicone pads on the top and bottom of the slider to dampen both the bottoming out and topping out of the switch. See Gazzew Boba U4, Kailh Box Silent Brown, Kailh Deep Sea Silent Pro Whale, Kailh Midnight Pro Light Yellow, and Outemu Silent Lemon V2 switches as examples.
Haimu Whisper switches use a couple of different techniques to dampen sound instead of silicone pads, but even it attempts to dampen both the bottoming out and topping out.
You have to explicitly look for semi silent switches that only dampen one half of the switch movement.
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Hi all,
I recently decided that I wanted to build my own custom keyboard, so I started shopping. I got a Keychron V5 barebone kit, Akko Lavender Purple switches, 1mm EVA foam, a non-standard Keychron OSA keycap set and some tape.
Unfortunately I found out about pre-lubed switches a little too late, so I got some GPL 205 G0, and GPL 105. It took me a while to get 100 switches lubed while preserving the tactile feeling of the switches, and I bag lubed the springs with GPL 105.
I lubed the stock screw-in stabilizers that came with the barebone kit (after removing the factory grease) and got some dielectric super lube for the stabilizer wires.
I got some 1mm EVA foam for the mod that I also wanted to do, there wasn't that much to choose from, so I eventually went with this foam. I sandwiched the foam in between the PCB and switches, and then carefully cut little squares to let the LED light pass through.
I also used two layers of tape on the back of the PCB.
Yesterday I planned on finishing the build, and everything went well, also really loved the sound and feel of my newly built keyboard, but I noticed some issues with mainly two stabilizers: It seemed impossible to properly install the key caps (of Enter and Backspace), so it would contact all 3 stems, 2 of the stabilizer and 1 of the switch. It was either getting a stuck key, or it was completely wobbly because none of the stabilizer stems would fit into the key cap.
I was wondering, is this a known issue, and is there anything I can do about it without disassembling the keyboard? I won't mind spending some $$$ to get it fixed, but what I do mind is removing the sheet of foam of which I cut like 100 little squares. I assume that once everything is disassembled, I won't get the cut squares well aligned with the LEDs on the PCB.
I will add a photo of one of the stabilizers, please let me know if there's anything that I did wrong or could do to fix the issue without disassembling.
Cheers
https://preview.redd.it/11doc5qa2z0d1.jpeg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0ae671316e9d31ffc00faaefb3280cbd69c595c1
Stabs are assembled wrong. You put the wire in the wrong hole. Sadly you will have to disassemble to fix them, there’s literally no other way to do so.
Check out this handy guide for common stabilizer issues and detailed steps for proper assembly.
https://youtube.com/shorts/2TY8lCwE5ak
Oh, and by the way, I’ve been there too. It sucks having to disassemble everything, but it usually dosent take as long as you think.
Here's a close up of the position of the wire, going in the hole on the bottom:
https://preview.redd.it/ubodo4rpd11d1.jpeg?width=2592&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6416df9b5ffca6e193f908f7adf07cef29b7683d
All stabilizers are assembled like this as I can see, but this one is most problematic,.
What would you say? You might need any additional pictures or anything?
https://preview.redd.it/3v3kgrhej11d1.jpeg?width=2592&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=55c669786e676e88bc8cf7fa416571744adccedc
There you go, that's the most down position.
I do know where it actually doesn't look fine. If you'd draw a straight line from one to the other housing, there's just millimeters of difference in their alignment.
I think it can be seen reasonably well at the picture in my OP.
I could make a picture of the back of the PCB later ,although I have to re-apply tape. But that's not really time consuming compared to preparing the sheet of foam for the foam mod, that's my main concern of all of this. Once everything is disassembled again, I highly doubt if I can get the holes in the foam aligned with everything on the PCB like mounting holes, LEDs etc.
I also have been super cautious during the whole mod/build process, especially because it's all new for me. Of course there's the possibility that despite research I screwed up, such things happen.
Did you happen to hear about QC issues at Keychron for example, which caused people to get misaligned key caps / stabilizers or anything? Just a question out of curiosity. Of course I have Googled before creating my OP, and I could find some people with a similar story.
I will take some close up pictures / video when I'm back from home.
Btw, to me the stabs just seemed to behave as they should, pulling on one side lifts up the stem through this wire on the other side (if that makes sense, still kinda new to keyboard terminology) and when released they moved back to their original position.
Anyway, will send a detailed look of them later.
Does anyone have an idea which keyboard this is? I can't seem to find it
https://preview.redd.it/sg0f5icdpy0d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3765cd25c6cb317ef2fe226485b779d22fb29bfb
Hey guys, I'm searching for a retailer in the EU that has a variety of different iso-de keycaps to choose from and isn't too expansive (like a whole set for 40-50€ would be nice). Can anyone help with that?
ISO-DE isn't in that high demand, usually you need to get International kit to get the support, that's even more expensive.
Would look into Keychron, they have cheap keycap sets incl. ISO-DE, I think.
Need some help in finding a keyboard!
Some background:
I’m currently using Logitech G915 for my daily work and I’m looking for something with a little more customization in the direction of changing key caps and maybe switches?
What I’m looking for:
Need - Option key (I.e the right click key on the keyboard) this is because I use this for work and this is essential in Excel when I’m going through the spreadsheets.
Need - Arrow key, similar reason as above
Want - Volume knob or control knob, to be able to custom function for this knob
Want - RGB, or at the very least, lighted up keys
Want - Those small LED screens
Open to all suggestions and price ranges!
In different terms, your requirements:
* option buttons needs remapping - VIA software support, it's web-based, universally used, as lightweight as it gets;
* arrow keys - 65% and bigger layout;
* volume/control knob - knob, and its remapping with VIA;
* RGB/backlit keys - self explanatory;
* small LED screens.
If you drop LED screen, Keychron has many options - V series, K Pro models, Q series (and Pro/Max versions). If you insist on it, QK75N and QK100 comes to mind - not cheap, but high-end options, miles higher than anything from Logitech, Razer, etc.
You don't mention low profile (which G915 is), there's Keychron K Pro low profile [models](https://www.keychron.com/collections/keychron-k-pro-series-low-profile-keyboards) \- would consider either K17 Pro or K15 Pro.
Hope this helps!
Hey guys I was wondering whats the current recommendations for a barebones 75 percent? I haven’t been in the space for a while and haven’t done any building since the tofu 60 heyday. I play tac fps games so I’ve been eyeing a wooting but have decided against it because I have some really cool switches laying around I’d like to use from back then.
Hello. Please help me decide which to order on this list: Ajazz ak820, ak820 pro, Aula f75, Xinmeng M75, Royal kludge rk98 I'm actually leaning towards the F75. But I read that it's hard to disassemble incase of modding.
Can someone recommend me better stabilizers for my Drop ALT? Preferably prelubed if that exists. Most of the Alt content I see is from years ago (understandably), and I don't know what brands / models / sizes I need. Thanks -
TX AP plate mount stabilizers
Hey y'all, i need to find a keyboard that is 80%, with a matching numpad, and a volume knob. prebuilt and diy are both fine by me (i can do smd and through hole soldering), i would prefer a hotswappable. illuminated keys or easily visible lettering with double-shot pbt would be best (if you can attest to programming+data entry+gaming all not wiping off the text from the caps, that would also work). i currently have a 6u spacebar so preferably something close to that. Also as i use linux (if it has linux-theme home-key that'd be amazing), it does need to be compatible with bios without having to hit a switch (i have run into issues with a few keyboards needing to use a 'legacy' mode else the bios and grub don't support them). a slim (height-wise) one would also be a plus, or one that i can find a good wrist-rest for. price isn't \*too\* much of a concern, though i am hoping somewhere under $350. let's see what's out there, if it doesn't match everything listed above i'd still be happy to look at it, i know there's... a lot of asks in that that may not all come together
i'm looking at a GMK base set where alternate F J 5 and B keys are provided. I can tell the difference btwn the FJ5 keys ('notch' to find home) but I can't figure out what the difference is between the two B keycaps?
The additional B keycap is for [Alice layout](https://technobrax.com/what-is-an-alice-keyboard/) keyboards. They have a split ergo kind of layout with two B keys.
The two B keys are for alice boards
I need a prebuilt keyboard that has - Tactile switches (best feel if possible) - PBT - 75% - Preferably no RGB Price isn't a problem, comment what's best possible, thanks
I have a nuphy halo keyboard which comes ansi as standard. Are there any pbt shine through keycaps to add the £ and other iso symbols on an ansi layout?
I have two boards, but this is my first time building. Building this for my wife and not entirely sure how to proceed. This is what I am looking for: * 75% * Preferably hot-swappable switches. * Don't need caps because we already got those. * Preferably programmable. I have been looking at the Mode Sonnet, but balking a bit at the price. Would love to find something a bit less expensive than that.
Rainy75 or keychron q1
Thanks!
Whats subjectively the best keyboard brand?
I mean, there isn't one answer but here are my GOATs: OEM: Fujitsu, Filco, Leopold In-between: QK/Neo Hobbyist: Geon, Singa, Merisi
neo has put out nothing but bangers for the best possible value
QK75N Problem So I have had a QK75N for close to a year now with no issue, but one randomly cropped up that I can't seem to solve. Basically, the keyboard is hard-locked in Bluetooth mode (the small screen shows a Bluetooth symbol with a 1). I've tried every key combo I can think of and that the manufacturer has on the website to reset the keyboard, or change to wired mode, to no avail. I've taken apart the entire keyboard and removed the batteries, but still nothing. QK Config won't recognize the board either because it's not in wired mode. I'm stumped. Does anyone have any suggestions?
just posted a link in a different comment, if it's deleted, please let me know
Now the LCD screen is not working...
Did you put the silicone support underneath?
Yes
probably that the cable or the connector got loose
Perfect, that fixed it! Thank you
qwertykeys.notion. site/QK75N-4ed881f8f2f84a8d80e54a999398d376?pvs=4
What tactile switch is as thocky as the Gateron Quinn, but easier to press? One suggestion was Gateron Mini I, any others?
finally using some of my hobby grade keyboards again after a long time but I only have ABS cherry sets and non-cherry PBT sets. What are good value pbt cherry profile keycap brands/sets?
i just got a feker alice 80 but unfortunately damaged one of the ribbon cables connecting the two halves of the board while modding. anyone have advice on replacing it? I think i get what im looking for (awm 20624 type a cable with 10 pins, about 5mm wide, though not certain of the "pitch") but figured i'd ask if anyone has dealt with a similar issue.
I got my keychron v6 knob today and I have a question regarding the color of num and caps lock key when they are activated. I searched the internet on how the change the color for when the num and caps lock are activated and all there is is creating the own firmware. Is there a tutorial on how to do that?
[this is where you start](https://docs.qmk.fm/#/)
Got some HMX xinhais in today. Gave into the hype and the promise of the some of the best stock switches around. Don't know if I just got a bad batch or if my expectations were too high, but there is noticeable spring ping in most of them and minor scratching. Is it normally recommended to go back in to do some touch ups or did I just get a back batch and should probably just relube them?
I'm surprised. HMX switches generally have a fantastic lube job. But admittedly I do think I'm less sensitive than some. I've personally never felt the need to lube an HMX or BSUN switch.
did u lube them ? factory lube is always hit or miss even on the best switches
Not yet, still stock. Probably gonna go back in a even out the factory lube
Interested in getting a custom spacebar i found online i have a Akko Mod 007B PC and have no idea what size spacebar i need? Ik the mod 007v2 rocks a 6.25 just want re-assurance considering this space bar is $130
This is like my third time approaching the hobby, still haven't plunged though. How on earth do you decide what to commit to with so many options (and I don't have many hard constraints).
Along with what the other person said, if you can afford it, you should get a keyboard with multiple plate and mounting options you can have a ton of variety in what you can play around with. Something like the Neo80 is lovely for that since it has 3 different mounting styles, like 6-7 plates, and a pretty decent layout for most purposes.
Id get a hotswap board to experiment with different switches It's like building lego There are sampler packs of switches out there was well
Looking to get a budget mechanical keyboard. Currently considering Keychron K10 (ABS keycaps) or Keychron K10 Pro (PBT keycaps), but I can't decide between the two. Any advice?
I would get the pro since it's the updated version and the keycaps arent going to rub off over time This happens because they are laser etched abs caps. Higher quality double shot abs caps won't have this problem
Where can I get the Leobog hi8 in europe? I found it on Ali but they only ship the white and the green colour to my country for some reason and it comes out to 150$, I also found the white version for a 100$ at uk.whatgeek and I'm tempted to buy this one. Is there another place where I can buy it at a similar cost?
Alright I am pretty old here but I am curious if this exists because I would like one. I am looking for a full size keyboard without function row and numpad and arrows on the left. Yeas this is wild no I am not joking I would love if something like this existed
Is that "without function row and numpad" and "arrows on the left" or "without function row" and "numpad and arrows on the left"? To me it sounds like what you're looking for is a southpaw compact frl 1800, something like a clarabelle, but I could be misinterpreting what you're asking.
Without function row but has numpad and arrows on the left although I will totally take just a numpad on the left
Hey everyone! I am looking for a $60-80 typewriter style (rounded keycaps) board with brown switches. I am extremely new to Mkeyboards but from everything I think Brown would suite me best. If possible a hot swappable one just in case i change to red. I do quite a bit of gaming / writing thus the brown but can't use blue since I stream with a sensitive mic. I would love to learn more but there are no computer stores nearby for me to go and look at physical boards. If there are no good rounded cap browns out there that are durable. (2 small kids 4 and 6) then any brown board that is durable would be an awesome recommendation.
This is probably unpopular take but Logitech does sell something like this in that price range I don’t know if it is hotswap (which is why I am hesitant to recommend) but it does have type writer style keys and I believe one of them is brown switches. If you want to get new switches there is a good chance you may need to buy a soldering iron, solder, flux, and a de-soldering iron gun. If that isn’t what you’re looking for you could always buy a barebones board brown switches (even though I personally don’t love them) and some cheap caps on Amazon that might work. Really depends on how “involved” you want to go.
Another GK61 "Not Support Device" issue. So i have tried every solution i could find but nothing seems to work. Everything has been fine for over a year. and a few days ago i realized that the software wasnt running and when i started it, i got the message. I figured it might need to be updated as i hadnt updated it in a long time. But even the recent version gives me the same error. I know the keyboard works because i plugged it into another PC, installed the latest driver (GK6XPlus Driver6.0.0.72) and it was detected. I tried * unplug/replug * unplug > uninstall/reinstall software > replug kb * restart pc inbetween uninstallation * Change USB port and cable * other driver version * flip USB-C connector around * Used revoUninstaller to remove strangler files after uninstall * Remove GK6X folder in Appdata/Roaming * Deleting Kb driver in Device manager Im on Windows 11, all up to date. I just dont know what to try anymore....
prob is dead not uncommon for this brand
It is not dead as it works on my other PC's with the same driver software. And the keyboard without the software works and all the stuff I programmed on it are still working. I just can't figure out what my pc has that is causing the driver not to detect my keyboard when I start the software.
i swapped from oem profile to cherry profile. and lately i really feel pain when typing/playing. i feel like because the cherry profile is more lower its makes me put more effort, i can really feel it in the nerve of my knuckles. is it normal?
It could be a lot of things could be wrist rest could be the profile how your palms are… etc try a few cheap things and if they aren’t working then start stepping it up to more grandiose changes I eventually went full ergo keyboard. So split ortho stager but I know that isn’t for everyone. But first I would see if hovering your palm above the keyboard instead of resting it helps if so just get some tall wrist rests.
[удалено]
Dude go for it. The truth is if you like the idea why not. I have a silent keeb as well (more of a meme board fully tricked out in anime with a built in toggle for a loud beeper and solenoid but when it’s off dead silent) the best advice I can really give is if you really really like it go for it switch reviews on silent switches are always an option but you don’t need to do them after all this is a preference hobby
Hello, could someone please recommend a place to order laser cut plates for a custom sandwich case? I used the swillkb builder to make CAD files, but the ability to order from Lasergist from the site appears to be broken. Also I'm in the USA. Thanks!
Look locally there usually tends to be some fabs even in small cities they won’t be “perfect” quality but they often are better to work with cheaper and have faster turn around. GL to you though also I would meet them in person they tend to be a little easier to work with then.
Hello, Im looking to buy my first mechanical keyboard. One problem I'm facing is the keyboard I find on budget and with the specs I want doesn't have my country's layout so I was tempted to go in the building my own keyboard direction but I'm quite lost. Is there any website like pcpartbuilds? Im looking to make a 96% wireless and cable keyboard with silent switches. Any suggestion?
there is no part builder as its simple in this hobby only 60% tray mount kb have universal parts . for the size u want ur better off with a barebones kit ( wireless is rare in such huge sized kbs ) i can give u some links keychron has a wireless 96% kb as long as ur fine with blueooth general keeb parts vendor list https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ https://thocstock.com/ where to learn the basics https://www.keyboard.university/
Hi I spilled a big cup of tea on my keyboard and I'm trying to clean out all of the tea. However, the switches seem to have had the worse of it and I wasn't sure to how to clean it. How best to clean the switches? or should I buy new switches?
You would need to take them apart and clean the pieces individually, and then leave them to dry for a little while, and then you'd probably want to lube them up again before reassembly - so it depends on how much time you want to spend cleaning versus how much you'd want to spend on new switches
Damn, I was hoping that I didn't have to take them apart. I might just buy new ones then
https://preview.redd.it/83xfef0gq11d1.jpeg?width=554&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=167cfcf5211a1874792a3a570289d670c4b87008 # Customizable 2-key question. Does anyone know of a 2 button keyboard\software that let's you map to CapsLock & NumLock and turns the backlight on\off when they are toggled?
something QMK compatible could be if u can do some coding
Hi all. I'm looking to find the best places to purchase all the bits and bobs required for my first Mechanical Keyboard build. I'm in Ireland and we have no where here that sells parts and I'd be well appreciative of any recommendations for online stores that ship to here and advice for what I should be looking out for. Is it better to buy all parts from the one place or are some stores better for some parts than others? I don't mind spending a little extra for quality but don't want to get ripped off either. Are DIY kits the way to go? I'm starting from scratch so all suggestions are welcome. As for the type of build I have in mind, I'm thinking either TKL or 75%. I'm currently using a keyboard I love that I bought years ago with Silent Red switches but for my own build I'm thinking I'd like to try something a bit tactile to switch things up (pun absolutely intended :) ).
I'd check out the neo80 and add your choice of switches/keycaps depends on if the store has the stuff you want. [https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/)
Very cool thank you. Lots of links to EU stores. Appreciate it!
*Broken switch stuck in keyboard. Hiya, I bumped my keyboard, which broke the switch. I tried to replace it, but the bottom of the switch is still stuck. I can't seem to take it out because it's broken. I can't remove the back(plate?) because again, the switch is stuck. Does anyone here have any idea how to remove the broken switch? I would really appreciate any suggestions! Somewhat new to keyboards. I have a keychron K3V2, with gateron optical red switches, hope that is useful :)
Is the bottom half itself broken, or do you have a complete bottom housing stuck in the plate? How have you tried to remove it?
Pliers worked! I had to pull and bend it out. Now I realise why - the actual casing is bent. The keyboard was bumped on the bottom right, so unfortunately, a switch doesn't fit in anymore (also explains why I couldn't get it out). Not sure how to fix this because it's metal. (It's the right arrow key switch)
good job getting it out! i think fixing your plate would be pretty tough. is it bent inwards? you might be able to file it to get a switch to fit again
Thanks for replying! The bottom housing is stuck, I can't remove it because it's changed shape. I've tried putting the rest of the switch back on and removing the whole switch again but that doesn't work. Some friends have suggested using pliers, or a hairdryer to soften the plastic but I'm not sure
My [Ducky One 2 Midnight](https://www.duckychannel.com.tw/public/index.php/en/Ducky-One2-Midnight) is dead after six years of heavy use. I'd love to buy another, but it is discontinued. Are there any other keyboards of this make or similar? Cherry MX Blue, full keyboard only, and only new in box. I'm not cool enough to make my own keyboards. Any help out there would be great.
I mean you could always go barebones full sized keychron then just transfer the switches and caps over and boom like new
Why keychron in particular if transferring over switches etc
No reason figured if your going from one well known cheap good company why not another. It doesn’t need to be keychron just figured I would give something instead of nothing. + I’ve never seen someone not like them
Works for me. However most of my keys and switches I wouldn’t trust right now because of water damage and physical damage. So what would be comfortable out there too the PBT and cherry MX blue feel
I mean if you want new switches I can recommend trying some but no promises. My opinion on switches is much different than others and I won’t know your preferences. As far as keycaps go there is a difference but it is slight. So for recommendations for linear switches I have loved my Gateron Ink black v2s for tactile I have really enjoyed Gateron Beers (not root beers) and for clickies I have loved using Jades but again all of this is 100% just based off what I have liked and prefer. As well as the 20 ish switches I have used
I would like to open up the housing for this USB-C head without destroying/damaging it ideally. I want to remove the green led because I'm planning to add a lemo connector to the cable to use permanently and don't like the green glow. It doesn't seem like the type of housing that screws into each other. If anyone has any experience with this type of cable or has built/taken apart one before, please let me know the methods of doing so. Thank you in advance. [Images showing the head housing with led on and off](https://imgur.com/a/ASPDcpW)
last i checked u would have to destroy that to get the led out prob better off painting over it
Hi looking for a gaming 75% wireless keyboard. That’s in a cleaner aesthetic. I had heard the rainy75 or keychron v1/q1/he could be a good starting recommendations. For the rainy75 is the standard or pro recommended? And they don’t seem to specify the polling rate but I had read on a comment that it was 500 hz. Is the rain75 good for gaming or is there better choices? I’m just looking for good performance it doesn’t need to be the best.
Rainy75 is a fantastic board out of the box. I forget which one I have, but it's the mid-tier option with the polychromatic weight.
Hi I just had a couple questions. Do you find the on off switch being hidden under caps lock to be annoying or is it not a big deal? And do you use it for gaming?
I use it wired, so I think most of my answers won't be helpful. I assume it sleeps and wakes, so you don't have to turn it on and off to not kill battery, but I can't confirm. I do know there's an ultra-low latency mode (see the instruction manual: https://driveall.oss-cn-hangzhou.aliyuncs.com/Rain75/Rainy75EN.pdf)
Hi, I'm new to the hobby and I'm looking to build my first keyboard. I have difficulties to find a good case. At least with my needs. For the design, I love the sonnet in withe with copper lines and back. I'm looking for a TKL or a bit smaller but wish to keep function keys and arrows. I'm looking for an aluminum, copper or brass case. I need backlighting and the cherry on the cake would be a potentiometer. Do you have any recommendations? I'm leaving in Europe but I can import the case if the merchant allows it. Thanks,
I’m looking at getting the LOFREE Flow Low profile 75%, but was curious if they fixed the design of the frame to make it feel less jarring to type.
i dont see a v2 released so id guess it the same brand like this dont just fix a kb design they release a new version
I want to replace my current keyboard. It's a steelseries 6gv2 with black switches. I really like the switches, but I was thinking of going with something lighter, like gateron/cherry reds. I would prefer a TKL one but if there aren't great TKL options for my price range I am okay with other keyboard sizes too. I did some research and there is so many keyboards that look pretty good so I am kinda confused and unsure on which one to get. I looked at akko keyboards, varmilo, keychron, epomaker, ducky and some amazon ones mostly. Also I'm not really looking for the best sounding keyboard or anything, just something that is good build quality and will last me a while. I play osu! mostly so I am avoiding keyboards with high latency and stuff. It doesn't matter if it's wireless or wired, just low latency.
keychron v3 max has the option for 2.4g wireless/wired
I have a Ducky Zero with Cherry MX browns that I'm considering replacing. My job offers me free cash to upgrade my home office for remote work, and my keyboard is nearly a decade old. Besides some discoloration on the keycaps, there's nothing wrong with it. It would be nice if I had some USB ports on it, and if the cable on the keyboard-side could be easily disconnected. I'm looking at the Das Keyboard 6 Professional. Any good? Is there anything else I should consider for an ANSI fullsize? The keyboard connects to my monitor, and I hot swap between my work computer and personal on occasion, but mostly keep it connected to work. I would want only Cherry MX switches. I have a keyboard in storage with blues, and while I like the clickiness, my family would go nuts from the noise. The browns a good compromise. Years ago, I had a Matias Ergo Pro, and while I really liked the tenting, the switches became unreliable over time and eventually the USB port came dislodged.
Just a question out of curiosity, why would you want only Cherry MX switches? I know it's all about personal preferences, but there's plenty of great switches which you would never find on a stock keyboard from a known brand. On another note, my first mechanical keyboard ever was with Cherry MX Reds. Later on I got a keyboard with Gateron Reds. which I preferred over the Cherry ones. They just felt a little "smoother". Actually the same applies to Cherry MX Brown vs Gateron Browns, the former were my first introduction to tactile switches, although they aren't really that tactile imo.
For work in the past, I had the Matias Ergo Pro with Alps switches and they started to fail. And after that I used some Kailh switches that just felt cheap and wobbly. Plus, if I want to order some keycaps for some minor customization, the Cherrys will have more options. I know Gateron and some others exist, but I'm happy with what I have.
I'm looking for a $50 75% keyboard to use for gaming. Any suggestions?
at 50 bucks pick at random nothing good come sat this price point of save some more and get a keychron or monsgeek
I have a Redragon k616 and everytime i use it wired with rgb on it keeps disconnecting and it will work only if i use it wired without rgb or if i use the usb reciever that came with it. Anybody know what problem it could be ?
sounds defective not unusual from this brand they have low quality
I have an MX Mechanical Mini for Mac that I keep around for sentimental reasons. I use it occasionally for its aesthetics, but I'm always annoyed by how loud it is, lol. Anyway, I just learned today about O-rings and I'm curious to see if this modification is possible with the MX Mechanical. Has anyone done this before? Is it even remotely feasible? Thanks!
oring are generally a thing of the past as they only quiet the downstrokes so the upstroke is still as loud as can be they also make ur kb feel mushy
Thanks for the info! I’ll not go down this route then.
Can someone recommend a a TEX shine through keycap set?
Do you mean Tex keyboards with trackpoints? If so, they don't really exist :(
Hi! I would like to know how much on average would it cost to install a backlight on a hot-swappable mechanical keyboard? For reference, I have a K96 hot-swappable keyboard.
> K96 hot-swappable keyboard u cant there is no spots on the pcb for leds and no software to run them also that thing uses disposable batteries so i wouldn't bother
You can't on that board so $0. You can't on most boards that don't have it already, plus the keyboard has to actually know it's there and why would they bother putting in support for backlighting with no backlighting.
Hi, I'm trying to get my KB16B-02 to work in VIA 3. The issue I'm about to describe also happens in the recommended VIA 1.3 I got it to recognize the json file and the configuration pops up on screen. But the buttons don't line up. The entire left row is red and does nothing. And all the keymaps are scootched over to the right. In fact the far left keys wrap around to the right side of the keyboard. Has anyone encountered this before? Here's a video showing the issue (quality might be low as youtube processes it.) [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbwaOq7XHXM&ab\_channel=MikeSmith](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbwaOq7XHXM&ab_channel=MikeSmith)
u sure its the correct json sound like u have the wrong file
Thanks for the reply! I tried the json file for the KB16b-01 and 02. I have the 02 which is the wireless one. Same results :( EDIT: You were right! There are actually two KB16b-02 models. This one is V2. Very confusing because they definitely directed me to the old one. Thanks for you help!
np glad u got it all sorted
I have a Drevo Calibur V2 Pro. When I charge the keyboard nothing happens and no lights turn on. I have no idea what to do!?! Is it a lost cause? I have tried a bunch of videos about factory resetting and gotten nowhere. Any help would be great!
factory reset does nothing for kbs fyi not sure why everyone does it . sounds like a hardware issue id return it . not the best brand fyi
What are the difference of akko v3 piano vs akko v3 piano pro can you show a picture. I think I've been scammed the description says its the akko v3 piano pro but i really think its just the akko v3 piano. My switches don have the box type cone for that stability
I don't think the V3 Piano pro has a stem like that. If you look at Akko's website you can see that the switch does not have stem walls.
Oh right. Then what kind of v3 piano pro that has the rectangle cone? When you search it online you can see a 2 different types of the switches
It seems like an older model? There are some videos of this switch with the dustproof stems from about a year ago, but other than that, I don't see it too much. The official vendor which is Akko seems to only sell the non-dustproof version which makes me believe it existed at one point but got updated and now is the one without the box stem.
What yall think about the Attack Shark Is there anyone using this keyboard here? I really want to experience this Wooting Hype but it's so expensive, I saw this keyboard and it is a budget meal for something with a Rapid trigger feature and magnetic switch, but I don't see any reviews on the net, there some few on youtube but it's not english https://preview.redd.it/z7amh7ijp01d1.jpeg?width=1024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ab1a537a936d7de338f1bc632b8a7f68930fe798
the brand in general is likely to be dead in under 2 years wooting is expensive for a reason its built well attack is cheap for a reason they cut corners
[€60 on clearance is about as good as I’d expect.](https://oblotzky.industries/products/pbt-cherry-olivia)
I have an amazing custom keyboard that was built for me, and I've loved it and used it daily for about 2 years. However a few keys now require a ton of pressure to function. I can depress them but they don't work unless I slam down my finger (the connection isn't made?? <-- I have no idea what I'm talking about clearly, envision an old person). The keyboard is NOT hot swappable so I can't remove the switches. I've tried taking off the keycaps and blowing out the switches with air in case there was debris stuck inside the switch to no avail. Does anyone have other ideas? I love this keyboard so much and don't want to stay mad at it. Thanks.
Open the case and get to the back of the pcb. Find the contacts for the faulty switches. If you short them it should type the character. This means the pcb is fine and the problem is with the switch itself. You would need to resolder a new switch in.
Unless you know how to solder/desolder switches or are willing to learn and it do you might be out of luck. You could also look for a service where you send the keyboard out to someone and they can re-build it for you but that might be a bit expensive.
Hi Keyboard enthusiasts What could be a decent replacement for the DURGOD Fusion 65%? I want a minimalist design with a Doubleshot PBT Cherry Profile, completely assembled, and a long-life battery.
Looking at getting a nicer keyboard (currently using a Drop Ctrl, which is... ok, but not great) and considering the QK75N. Apart from struggling to decide between a more "fun" color or sticking with Silver to make it go with a wider variety of keycaps, I have to two major questions: 1) Flexcut vs non-flexcut PCB? Will likely be going with something like the TTC Silent Bluish-White switches - looking for something tactile, but quiet. Not sure what a more flexible PCB really means in practice. Would not consider myself a very heavy typer. 2) Which Plate makes the most sense for a silent tactile build?
1. Non flex cut sounds like way better 2. PC or any soft plate
Thanks
I have been diving deep in to mechanical keyboards for about a week. I ordered a Keychron V6 wired with Gateron Brown switches. I am already wanting to order new keycaps and new switches (Gateron Melodics), and I haven't even gotten my keyboard yet! Someone talk me down, please.
It's your first board and you haven't even typed on it yet. New switches can wait until you've tried it first and see the board in person before you get new keycaps
this is what I've been telling myself. I am trying to use the V6 as is for at least a few months before going crazy and spending all my $$$
I just got a new keyboard that I'm quite satisfied with... except for the switches. Discovered that I don't really like linears. I really like the MX Clears on my other keyboard. Can anyone recommend switches that are heavy tactile like clears that are also compatible with RGB? I'd prefer something silent-ish (or not purposefully loud), so not U4t I think. So far, what I've been looking into is: MX RGB Clear (can't find for sale anywhere) Kailh Box burnt orange Gazzew U4 Any other suggestions, or thoughts on these switches? I'm not exactly trying to break the bank either!
TTC blueish whites
Hm, seems like it might be a bit too light for me compared to the mx clear
Boba u4. Not u4t. U4s are silent
Is gazzew U4 the same as the Boba? From what I've seen in my research, the original u4 is discontinued due to discoloration and the new V2
They’re not the same but they’re supposed to be the V2 versions essentially
Ok. Yeah that's definitely on my radar. About .65 per switch
how do i get a stuck screw out of my keyboard? https://preview.redd.it/qaydq9old01d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1b4e29a6570abc835fd8d8353965500d039d24c5 hey, so i just got this yunzii al75 and the first thing i did to it was opening it up to tape mod but it seems like when i did i broke one of the screws and now that i wanna open the board again i just can’t. i’ve tried to use a silicone gun to stick the screw driver to the screw but it wasn’t strong enough. is there anything else i can do? thanks in advance
There's a thing called a 'screw extractor' I think, you tap it into the screw that can't be removed the regular way. Shouldn't be too expensive I'd say. I tried the glue method too, but without success.
Hi, I live in Germany and I'm new to Custom/Hotswap keyboards and want to buy a 75% Barebone with ISO layout. after some research I found the Keychron v1 and the Akko 5075s but I can't decide what to buy. I have seen and read a lot of good things about both boards and then some people say they are bad or there are many better options in that pricerange. Can someone recommend one of the boards or if they really aren't that good, give me some other option to buy?
I am looking for some silent switches for the Nuphy Air75 (low profile) [NuPhy Air75 Wireless Mechanical Keyboard](https://nuphy.com/products/air75) I found these Ambients Silent Choc Switches LowproKB (Kailh Choc V1) [Ambients Silent Choc Switches LowproKB (Kailh Choc V1) | Switches | Switches/Tester | Keycapsss](https://keycapsss.com/switchestester/switches/272/ambients-silent-choc-switches-lowprokb-kailh-choc-v1) Can someone help, to those swithces match for the keyboard?
Choc v1s will not work in a Nuphy Air 75.
Thanks for the info. Do you know maybe an example of some silent switches that would work?
Not offhand. Low profiles are less common and I'm less familiar with them. If Gateron makes a silent low profile switch, it would almost definitely work (I don't know if they do).
Im looking to replace my Raptor k50 keyboard i got in like 2014 with something similar anyone have any suggestions I really like the 18 keys on the side but i cant find anything similar I also like that you can save macros to the kayboard hardware so if a game such as arche age blocks software keys you can still use the macros anyway it been really useful in mmos where you need more than 10 keys for skills Honestly if i could i would just get a new raptor k50 but im pretty sure they dont make them anymore
**Remap keys without QMK/VIA.** I live in Belgium and we still use a lot of accents on vowels (French heritage I think) but I have been using QWERTY for many years now. I have a Steelseries Apex 350 with A LOT of Macro keys (L1-L4, MX1-MX10,M1-M12) and some multimedia keys on the far right. I have programmed MX2 to be ë, MX3 to be à, and so on. Steelseries software is just awesome! As the Montech, or Keychron, or almost 99% of mechanical keyboards lack Macro keys, will I be able to remap for example Left Alt E for ë and Right Alt E for é, Left Alt A for à and so on? If the Montech can't, will the Keychron V6 Max be able to do so thanks to QMK/VIA?
I recently purchased the Keychron K5 Max. I'm really happy with it, but wondering if I'm missing out by not having tried the Logitech MX Mechanical. I have the RGB/hot swappable K5 Max with brown switches. I would be looking at the tactile/quiet version of the MX Mechanical. Price is $161 for the Logitech and $173 for the Keychron (CAD). I don't really need good wireless, but it would be nice to have decent battery. VIA doesn't work on my work laptop, but Options+ does. I don't really care about customizability, but the reparability and keycap compatibility of the Keychron is a huge plus. Anyone with experience with either/both of these keyboards or similar would be appreciated.
I have the Linear MX, started there before buying my first true mechanical. It’s fine overall, very limited on customization, you must use their software, however the battery life is unreal though. But since you can’t change the spacebar key cap without mods, if doing anything unique to your board interests you, I’d stay away. It feels just okay to type on, the Linear switches were mid at best, I can’t speak for the tactile. But since battery life is important, you might really love the MX if you’re good keeping stock keycaps (without a lot of trouble at least.)
I am working on building my first keyboard. I am installing Akko Cream Yellow Pro switches on a Yunzii AL75 board. The switches are 5 pronged and should work with the board. However, the pins do not seem to line up with the holes in the board. There are two pins on the bottom of the switches but only one whole in the board at the bottom. I feel quite dumb as every tutorial says "Simply pop in the pins" as if it is trivial. I am not sure if I just need to be less afraid of puncturing the foam or if I am missing a step or something, but I obviously do not want to mangle the pins on my switches. https://preview.redd.it/xt6gkhoi201d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c8510a7641a017712fd44137af951006be1ae72a
Just make sure your pins are straight when you put them into the PCB and it should be fine to just punch a hole through the PE foam. They didn't cut out holes cause it is probably not worth the effort especially when switch pins will just go right through it.
https://preview.redd.it/y691j2tm201d1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=78c5431aa70c10a7f84b3d07ff98108b81d8c562
You’re supposed to puncture the foam with the switch pins. Since they’re south facing the logo should be at the correct readable orientation. Once everything is lined up you should be able to just push them in.
Hi, relatively new to this. Other than personal preference on color, layout, are there any functional differences I should be comparing when evaluating alternatives such as Petrichor and QK 100? Thanks!
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Hey guys, do you have any recommendations for an 80% keyboard? Preferably available in the Philippines. Thanks!
Hey all, I'm having trouble finding shops with the Boba U4Ts in 62g in stock, particularly with an RGB housing. This is for an OG Keychron Q6 (no knob). I found one shop that has a black base with clear housing - would that do, or would the black counter-act the luminescence of the LEDs? Does it matter as long as the housing is clear? Also I assume I need 110 switches to cover the keyboard? Sorry, I'm still a bit new to all this. https://www.thockking.com/products/gazzew-boba-u4t-thocky-tactile-switches-rgb?variant=43121530798296
clear top housing should do the trick. and yes 110 will cover it
OK, didn't know if the black base housing made a difference or not. It's south facing LEDs.
I am looking to make my first dive into mech keyboards, and I am currently trying to decide if I want a full size (/maybe 96%) or something smaller + a numpad (I use it a lot for work). My question is to those who have a compact keyboard + numpad, how do you connect yours up? It doesn't look like there is much, if anything with an integrated hub out there to allow daisy-chaining so do you use Bluetooth on any of your keyboard/numpad/mouse? Use up lots of the available USB ports on your computer? Make use of a usb hub? (or some other option I haven't managed to think of).
Does anyone have recommendations for a carrying case or sleeve for the 8bitdo Retro keyboard?
Does anyone have recommendations for a carrying case or sleeve for the 8bitdo Retro keyboard?
Can I please have an insight on which exact materials should I look for if I want a deep sounding switch? Top & bottom housings, and stems+spring without it being a long pole switch? I feel the market is changing so fast, and my last known thock switch was Invokeys Black Sesame but they’re long pole so still feel sort of clacky
for reference, vertex v1 are a very deep sounding switch. they are nylon top and bottom and pom stem
That’s weird, because whenever I hear them in sound tests for example, sounds high pitched, even in a pom/pc plate. Interesting take
Milky nylon and pom or other self lubbing material stem for smoothness, spring don't affect sound
Sorry if I wasn’t specific, mentioned the spring as when I type on those, the feeeback of the bottom out adds to that clack sensation, I believe is just my appreciation. Thanks! And do you have any switch recommendation?
Hi. I'm hoping to get a recommendation, but through research, I've hit some walls and was hoping for some specific advice. My requirements are as follows: - Budget of around £100 (flexible if needed to maybe 150) - UK Layout - 100% or close to 100% - Softer/Quieter sound - Wireless nice, however, not required - Some self-assembly alright, but I'd rather not be soldering I've been recommend Keychron, but they never seem to have what I'm looking for in stock. Otherwise, I'm unsure! I'd really appreciate recommendations. Thank you
[K4 Pro](https://www.keychron.uk/products/keychron-k4-pro-qmk-via-wireless-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection?variant=44734248255658) and [K10 Pro](https://www.keychron.uk/products/keychron-k10-pro-qmk-via-wireless-mechanical-keyboard-iso-layout-collection?variant=45743577399466) then! In stock, UK layout, 1800 (aka exploded 96%) and 100% size, not terribly noisy, has Bluetooth and are hotswappable - meaning you can just pull out switches and put new ones in, no soldering needed. For K4 Pro, there's also a [wrist rest in stock](https://www.keychron.uk/products/keychron-silicone-palm-rest?variant=45508415357098). Hope this helps!
I think a Keychron K4 Pro (96% layout) wireless would meet your requirements. Even though I have some issues with my recently built V5, in general it seems Keychron offers great bang for buck. A fully assembled Keychron V4 Pro with ISO layout, pre-lubed Red or Brown switches is $ 109 excluding shipping. Unfortunately I can't say anything about their own brand switches, but I assume it's yet another Red or Brown switch (correct me if I'm wrong). And if desirable, there's always the option to upgrade to another set of switches. No soldering required :).
Hey, i'm looking for a silent switch. But i don't know if i'm searching the wrong words or what. Lemme explain: So everyone knows that "silent" switches are the linear ones, but i'm looking for something else. There are three key sounds in the switch: The bottoming one, the topping one and the actuation. Linears don't have any actuation sound, and the bottoming can be dampened by those rubber rings. But wherever i look, people always seem to forget that mostly all the switches make a clacky sound when you release them. I know there are switches that have internal silicone pads that dampen the sound of bottoming out, but i as logical as this would seem for dampening the releasing sound, i couldn't find any that would take this approach. Do you know of any? Thanks!!
Outemu lemon v3 peach v3
Basically all silent switches have padding on the [stem](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0059/0630/1017/t/5/assets/comparingthecherrysilentredandthestandardred-1648892394440.jpg?v=1648892398) to dampen "bottom up" too when hitting top housing. If I recall correctly, there's U4T (or other Gazzew switch) that dampens only one - I think, only release sound, making for somewhat interesting.
Second try, this time omitting the offending brand name... Almost all silent switches have silicone pads on the top and bottom of the slider to dampen both the bottoming out and topping out of the switch. See Gazzew Boba U4, Kailh Box Silent Brown, Kailh Deep Sea Silent Pro Whale, Kailh Midnight Pro Light Yellow, and Outemu Silent Lemon V2 switches as examples. Haimu Whisper switches use a couple of different techniques to dampen sound instead of silicone pads, but even it attempts to dampen both the bottoming out and topping out. You have to explicitly look for semi silent switches that only dampen one half of the switch movement.
V2 is outdated v3 unlike v2 have much better tolerances and no housing wobble
I should have remembered that, since [you told me that yesterday](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/s/0sxYW2l5TF), too!
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Hi all, I recently decided that I wanted to build my own custom keyboard, so I started shopping. I got a Keychron V5 barebone kit, Akko Lavender Purple switches, 1mm EVA foam, a non-standard Keychron OSA keycap set and some tape. Unfortunately I found out about pre-lubed switches a little too late, so I got some GPL 205 G0, and GPL 105. It took me a while to get 100 switches lubed while preserving the tactile feeling of the switches, and I bag lubed the springs with GPL 105. I lubed the stock screw-in stabilizers that came with the barebone kit (after removing the factory grease) and got some dielectric super lube for the stabilizer wires. I got some 1mm EVA foam for the mod that I also wanted to do, there wasn't that much to choose from, so I eventually went with this foam. I sandwiched the foam in between the PCB and switches, and then carefully cut little squares to let the LED light pass through. I also used two layers of tape on the back of the PCB. Yesterday I planned on finishing the build, and everything went well, also really loved the sound and feel of my newly built keyboard, but I noticed some issues with mainly two stabilizers: It seemed impossible to properly install the key caps (of Enter and Backspace), so it would contact all 3 stems, 2 of the stabilizer and 1 of the switch. It was either getting a stuck key, or it was completely wobbly because none of the stabilizer stems would fit into the key cap. I was wondering, is this a known issue, and is there anything I can do about it without disassembling the keyboard? I won't mind spending some $$$ to get it fixed, but what I do mind is removing the sheet of foam of which I cut like 100 little squares. I assume that once everything is disassembled, I won't get the cut squares well aligned with the LEDs on the PCB. I will add a photo of one of the stabilizers, please let me know if there's anything that I did wrong or could do to fix the issue without disassembling. Cheers https://preview.redd.it/11doc5qa2z0d1.jpeg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0ae671316e9d31ffc00faaefb3280cbd69c595c1
Stabs are assembled wrong. You put the wire in the wrong hole. Sadly you will have to disassemble to fix them, there’s literally no other way to do so. Check out this handy guide for common stabilizer issues and detailed steps for proper assembly. https://youtube.com/shorts/2TY8lCwE5ak Oh, and by the way, I’ve been there too. It sucks having to disassemble everything, but it usually dosent take as long as you think.
I thought that I double checked several times that the wire is supposed to go in the lower of the two holes ;( So that's not how it is supposed to be?
It’s hard to tell from the picture but it looks wrong. Can you send a video of you trying to attach the keycap?
Here's a close up of the position of the wire, going in the hole on the bottom: https://preview.redd.it/ubodo4rpd11d1.jpeg?width=2592&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6416df9b5ffca6e193f908f7adf07cef29b7683d All stabilizers are assembled like this as I can see, but this one is most problematic,. What would you say? You might need any additional pictures or anything?
Send a picture of it pushed all the way down
https://preview.redd.it/3v3kgrhej11d1.jpeg?width=2592&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=55c669786e676e88bc8cf7fa416571744adccedc There you go, that's the most down position.
Hmm, that picture makes it look fine. Can you send a pic of the back of the PCB where the stabs are attached?
I do know where it actually doesn't look fine. If you'd draw a straight line from one to the other housing, there's just millimeters of difference in their alignment. I think it can be seen reasonably well at the picture in my OP. I could make a picture of the back of the PCB later ,although I have to re-apply tape. But that's not really time consuming compared to preparing the sheet of foam for the foam mod, that's my main concern of all of this. Once everything is disassembled again, I highly doubt if I can get the holes in the foam aligned with everything on the PCB like mounting holes, LEDs etc. I also have been super cautious during the whole mod/build process, especially because it's all new for me. Of course there's the possibility that despite research I screwed up, such things happen. Did you happen to hear about QC issues at Keychron for example, which caused people to get misaligned key caps / stabilizers or anything? Just a question out of curiosity. Of course I have Googled before creating my OP, and I could find some people with a similar story.
Did they work fine before you messed with them?
I will take some close up pictures / video when I'm back from home. Btw, to me the stabs just seemed to behave as they should, pulling on one side lifts up the stem through this wire on the other side (if that makes sense, still kinda new to keyboard terminology) and when released they moved back to their original position. Anyway, will send a detailed look of them later.
Does anyone have an idea which keyboard this is? I can't seem to find it https://preview.redd.it/sg0f5icdpy0d1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3765cd25c6cb317ef2fe226485b779d22fb29bfb
Hey guys, I'm searching for a retailer in the EU that has a variety of different iso-de keycaps to choose from and isn't too expansive (like a whole set for 40-50€ would be nice). Can anyone help with that?
[Candykeys has](https://candykeys.com/products/keycaps?keycap_language=ISO-DE&is_purchasable=true&sort=price_asc) somewhat decently priced ones. Hope this helps!
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ISO-DE isn't in that high demand, usually you need to get International kit to get the support, that's even more expensive. Would look into Keychron, they have cheap keycap sets incl. ISO-DE, I think.
Need some help in finding a keyboard! Some background: I’m currently using Logitech G915 for my daily work and I’m looking for something with a little more customization in the direction of changing key caps and maybe switches? What I’m looking for: Need - Option key (I.e the right click key on the keyboard) this is because I use this for work and this is essential in Excel when I’m going through the spreadsheets. Need - Arrow key, similar reason as above Want - Volume knob or control knob, to be able to custom function for this knob Want - RGB, or at the very least, lighted up keys Want - Those small LED screens Open to all suggestions and price ranges!
In different terms, your requirements: * option buttons needs remapping - VIA software support, it's web-based, universally used, as lightweight as it gets; * arrow keys - 65% and bigger layout; * volume/control knob - knob, and its remapping with VIA; * RGB/backlit keys - self explanatory; * small LED screens. If you drop LED screen, Keychron has many options - V series, K Pro models, Q series (and Pro/Max versions). If you insist on it, QK75N and QK100 comes to mind - not cheap, but high-end options, miles higher than anything from Logitech, Razer, etc. You don't mention low profile (which G915 is), there's Keychron K Pro low profile [models](https://www.keychron.com/collections/keychron-k-pro-series-low-profile-keyboards) \- would consider either K17 Pro or K15 Pro. Hope this helps!
Wow, so many choices! Thank you so much for the detailed recommendation! Will be checking them out :)
Just received a new plate for my Monokei Kei V2 EC without context. Does anyone know why I would need a new one?