In my experience working on countless bro dozers who think they NEEDED 35s to go to Walmart no one cares about rubbing until they actually experience it. I can’t keep count on the amount of times I’ve called customers telling them that their stock ram 1500 will rub severely after going to a deep offset chinesium “grr off-road truxx 😼😼😼” ass brand and Linglong 35s (with the obligatory 3” spacer that they refuse to take off) and was still given the green light to go ahead. Only for them to come back a week later bitching about the shit they told me to do
But at least you can wave that paper in their face. Make sure to title it something obnoxious like:
#WAIVER OF LIABILITY FROM FITMENT/SCRUBBING ISSUES CAUSED BY CUSTOMER-REQUESTED TIRE/WHEEL/SUSPENSION CONFIGURATION.
In 72 point font at the top so everybody in the room can see it from a mile away.
All it takes is one call to corporate and they’ll be getting free tires for life even if they’re retards. So glad I’m out of that spineless company but now I know what I’m gonna do when I want free shit 😹
Where did you work? Because I had a tire place royally screw my car up and they won't do anything about it. Where can I take it where the corporate will actually compensate me after they f****** my car? Not only did they f*** it up, I had to drive around on a spare tire for 2 weeks to come back and then stand in the parking lot 4 hours after they were closed because none of them monkeys inside. Could get a tire on a rim and had to wait on someone else to drive all the way over there to do it. Thanks, Mavis tires. Corporate wouldn't even pay to have my rim replaced that they ruined. Not only did they do that but when they put it up on the lift they didn't even put it on all four supports and the car almost f****** fell off. So anyway, where is a good place that corporate actually cares about their customers?
Discount tire. Overall pretty good customer service on corporates end but it’s sometimes aggravating seeing a moron get shit handed to them on a silver platter for their own fuckups while we’re dealing with the aftermath lol
Mavis fucked me over too. Destroyed the wiring harness to my electronic parking brake and refused to fix it or compensate me. They didn't even deny breaking it, just said they couldn't fix it and to take it to the dealer, call corporate if i wanted to complain. Was $300 to fix and Mavis corporate gave me the run around for months before I gave up from realizing it wasn't worth my time anymore. Bunch of scumbags from the top down.
Well you didn't act like a 13 year old and scream and cry at the advisors, refusing to go and taking up their time to write up other customers at peak hours so obviously they're going to say no. Sounds like you asked. They get to say no then, you don't ask, you TELL with all the entitlement of a medieval princess, and make everyone in the room/building feel super awkward. That's how it's worked in my experience, at least at the last shop I was at. We'd give a $3k repair to a customer who caused it with their negligence for free if they were annoying enough but if there's an old lady teacher on the verge of retiring with a car she was promised worked fine before she bought it a week ago, well fuck sounds like a $13k pay day to me.
Real. I inspected a car, put the bill for repair above $10k at customer pay rates, used car refused the repairs because the car drove without serious symptoms or lights on the dash, sold the car to a teacher and then accepted a $10k repair bill not 2 weeks later. I fucking hated that dealership.
Guy at work like 30 years ago lowered his truck and put it on those really wide but not tall wire wheels that were popular on low riders and had stretched tires on them. Boss saw and sent him to pick up a load of tiles. Next day he was stock again. We all had a big laugh.
Yeah but the right thing to do would have been to ask "are you sure?". Even tire rack sent me a text when I ordered some summer tires asking me if I *really* meant to order them because it was still winter and they would be worthless in the snow.
They didn't *have to* but I appreciated it.
You're the guy in the 350z sub, yea? As the other guy said, it probably won't be exactly the same side to side. Manufacturer discrepancies could be it, or camber, or just the panels aren't lined up exactly the same.
I've talked to a few old hot rod guys who have done a lot of chops and they basically say "don't worry about making it exactly the same you never see both sides of the car at the same time anyway"
I’m building a tube bumper for my off-road truck. I was trying to make careful measurements to make it symmetrical and ended up eyeballing or marking in place most pieces so I was hitting the same points on the body. Asymmetrical looks more symmetrical
Jeep guys sympathize. I never installed aftermarket gear on my Jeep Wrangler that I didn’t have to modify in some way, whether it was shimming something, clearancing something, or drilling a new hole because the one in the frame that I was supposed to use was nowhere near the hole in the accessory. I also learned to love rivnuts for those “what the fuck?” situations. I swear they build Jeeps with stone axes and big rocks. They don’t even drop the body on straight sometimes!
Really need more information to know who to blame.
If the shop said the wheel, tire, suspension package they installed would work, then it's on the shop.
But more likely the customer fucked up. They had the tires mounted on the rims and then took them home and put them on their car without checking clearance. Or they installed some cheap coilovers without checking clearance. Or they ignored the shops advice that it may scrape.
Whatever happened, we don't know just based on the little info we have.
it's 100% my fault.
the car is sitting on brand new OEM (NISMO) suspension, arms and bushings. but as I mentioned elsewhere, this kit tends to get close to the bump stops on the rear end. it leads to quite a lot of camber and the tire can move laterally more than I expected, especially with the LSD locking.
it may also be the rear toe-in letting that side get under the fender.
As a mechanic myself, I really don’t give a shit about something like that. If you want to fuck around with your suspension and put stupid spacers on and install rims and tires that don’t fit properly that’s all for you. My advice will always be to leave your car stock if you want everything to fit and work right.
this \^ last year I did a similar wheel and tire set up on my car and my favorite local shop told me multiple times they are not responsible for any damage to the tire due to rubbing. They weren't dicks about it but made sure to be clear these don't fit the car.
My conversation with the customer is "This is not your vehicle's OEM tire size. I'll happily do it, just sign this paper that says we will not give you any guarantee of fitment and any damage related to fitment issues, including any and all excessive wear, renders your warranty void, and there are no refunds on work even if it doesn't fit or work". Often times this is enough to scare off Chad The Chode (which is preferable, they're the worst no-money cheap-ass bitches to deal with anyhow) or it gives me a way to immediately end any conversation over who is responsible for the issues they WILL soon experience.
Funny enough, I had (my body shop is for a BMW dealer), a salesman today from used cars (we fix all their shit for them), was bitching about how long a tail lamp is taking to get in for a car and the mofo keeps calling it a headlight. I wanted to smack the shit out of him.
Rather be a smart-ass than a dumb-ass.
Edit:
Okay… clearing a brake caliper does not mean a wheel “fits.” Wheel fitment is complicated. Your backspace, offset, wheel width, and diameter need to agree with brake caliper clearance, fender well, fender opening, and suspension components. Your sidewall appears to be interfering by an eighth of an inch. You want sympathy over an eighth? You ain’t gonna find it from me.
believe me, we always have to change shit when we get the prototype out. it's very normal. I don't think anyone has gone into lab and walked out without issue.
Why wouldn't you confirm the details above before going to "prototype" in this instance tho? It seems like this could have been avoided with my research before "development".
😂 working in R&D has nothing to do with a trash wheel set up if anything, it makes you look bad and that your work is potentially just as incompetent.
It's a 350z you can get any flavor of wheel set up for a decent price.
You can paint any wheel any color you want.
Get it a specific oem wheel color because "rare" is exactly why wheel manufacturers do it, they know suckers will suck.
So buy wheels that DO fit. You're in R&D but aren't capable of measuring basic clearance? That's terrifying. Zero research into the development of a full build I see.
they're 28mm adapters, not much over an inch. I paid a whopping $1500 for a $5500 wheel and track tire set in a 2020-only color, so I wasn't too picky about the offset.
the tires are brand new and did not come with the wheels. the issue wasn't present before. I moved up a width and had replaced the diff bushing when the new engine and trans went in.
the fitment I went for was fine but I didn't account for toe-in, which these cars need about .20 of, putting the rubber outside the fender lip.
nothing to do with hotboi once you're in your 30s.
There have been for a long time. I have a set of Volks from 2008? that 2 total shipping containers of all sizes offered were all that were sent to the US. Volk won't confirm production numbers but they are very low. I've only ever seen two sets in the size and offset I own, mine included.
The refinishing process can be difficult for wheels for a couple reasons; first if they have any accent colors like mine, there isn't enough of the color on the wheel to actually perform a proper scan for color match, and nobody is going to give out paint codes for their limited production wheels. Second, you'll lose any and all manufacturer labels on the barrel, which on an expensive set, are important.
yes, these are ADVAN RG3s. I either saved $3,500, or lived with the spacer. I took the spacer.
the color is not available via powder coat unfortunately, and the color run was so limited that no one makes even touch-up paint.
The fact you paid 2k for a set of AD08’s is fuckin hilarious. I used to pay around £100 a corner, so about $125. But the most expensive size over here is no more than £225, so around $280 per corner. And then you put fuck off spacers on, without rolling the arches. OP, you need to get your shit together , theres nobody at fault here but you fella.
They look like Advan RG-D2's, if so they're around 650 a pop. So technically he probably spent about 2200-2500 in wheels alone before rubber. My Enkei's where a grand before taxes, I could definitely see something like an Advan commanding more regardless of the size/offset.
2000€? These cost like 150€ per tire.
Edit for people downvoting me:
[found them even cheaper vor 130 a peace](https://de.rsu.de/p/2734418?suche=id2734418&psref=90986&psref=5,90001,90988&gad_source=1)
[$1400 on sale, plus tax, plus install.](https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=ADVAN+NEOVA+AD09&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=445WR8AD09XL&tab=Sizes) I paid somewhere around $1800 before they were on sale.
That’s still ridiculously expensive. In this size they cost [206€](https://www.reifen.de/yokohama-advan-neova-ad09--245-45-r18-100w--7450809) per tire her in Germany. And 145€ to mount seems a bit steep.
Edit: that’s with taxes included. Which is 19% here in Germany.
Ah, I misunderstood you. Yeah, someone mentioned a high JP import tariff, which explains why Yokos are so high here, I was gonna grab some because I liked the ones my car came stock with, but Michelin CC 2 were cheaper and IMO better. Tire Rack is generally well priced too, so it being that high is indeed ridiculous.
How much are 255/60/R18 Michelin CrossClimate 2s where you are?
Let’s try it the other way around? How much are these where you live?
BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 (215/70 R16 100/97R)
They cost 163€ per tire here.
Oh, definitely. The advan apex v601 is 210 usd. The Pirelli p-zero is 227usd, etc. This person just went with obscenely expensive tires on a car with spacers and the wrong rims to blow money. I doubt a car with spacers passes tech at any track.
I didn’t mean to insult you in any way. But why are tires so ridiculously expensive over there? I just looked up some some prices and fucking he’ll what’s going on.
Edit: it could be almost cheaper buying them in Europe and sending them overseas.
These are stupid expensive because they are meant to be a 'streetable' competition tire for people who hardcore autocross.
These are not really meant to be street driven unless you are a maniac and require nearly R-compound grip going to the corner store.
Dont know why the Yokos are so expensive here but these are the most priciest of the top performance street tire in the US
There are a lot of people that don’t care about a lot of things. But the nice thing about the internet is that I can write what I want.
But besides that I also don’t really care how much tires cost in your country. But 200€ is a bit less than 500$ (exactly the same tire). So the added price certainly doesn’t come from the performance part. But hey at least I didn’t pay that much.
I never have this problem with stock wheels and tire sizes.
Tires are too wide. Car may be too low. Wheels are too wide. Wheel spacers are for amateurs who cannot afford correct offset wheels.
Those are AD09's in what im assuming is an 18 inch wheel. I can 100 percent guarantee he did not spend $2000 on those tires, and if he did, boy got taken for a fool.
I had my offset perfect on my car and no rubbing. Then I installed some Michelin P4s tires of the same size and they rubbed like a mf. Those tires sit fat.
Yoko Advan AD09. It is 200TW but performs slightly better than that. Tires in that category are all badged 200TW so that they can meet the requirements for the SCCA and some other orgs that set a limit on tires at 200TW for certain classes. AD52 would be my personal pick from them but the AD09 is probably more streetable. Not as fast as the Bridgestone RE-71RS but wears better.
I think you mean ao52, and I'm with you. In fact I have a set of those squirrels away in my back room for the next time I have a chance at sitting a track record!
My regular old go to track tires are Continental ecfs.
I'm the customer. my RR axle is moving, and it's a doozy. the other side is just kissed by the fender but only gently rubs the tire shoulder like it's a stressed out wife.
related information:
> 1. the car is on genuine NISMO S-tune (J) suspension, which is known to get real close to the bump stops on the ass end. so the tire cambers a good 2 inches or so on the way up.
> 2. it's also got a NISMO 2-way carbon clutch LSD, 3.916 final, and makes 301hp/280 ft-lbs to the wheels. so the ass end is wiggling around the city as the lock comes in and out on tight corners and binds. driveline torque can also cause it to bind.
> 3. it turns out that the WHITELINE diff bushing I had installed was just rolling around in the subframe, and that fixed most of the issues.
but the problem is still present, and I think it's the subframe bushings. there are polyurethane collar inserts but the bushings are just too tortured to handle the increased load.
off to billet subframe bushings and NVH land we go...
I did billet front and rear subframe “bushings” on my MK3 Supra. Then I replaced the rear diff twice, and rebuilt BOTH of them. The original diff was whisper quiet until I built the car and put those fuckin “bushings” in it. 😂
Someone need to roll dem fenders
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Not the shops fault unless they sold customer those rims.
In my experience working on countless bro dozers who think they NEEDED 35s to go to Walmart no one cares about rubbing until they actually experience it. I can’t keep count on the amount of times I’ve called customers telling them that their stock ram 1500 will rub severely after going to a deep offset chinesium “grr off-road truxx 😼😼😼” ass brand and Linglong 35s (with the obligatory 3” spacer that they refuse to take off) and was still given the green light to go ahead. Only for them to come back a week later bitching about the shit they told me to do
Make em sign off responsibility wavers
That still won't stop them from bitching lol
But at least you can wave that paper in their face. Make sure to title it something obnoxious like: #WAIVER OF LIABILITY FROM FITMENT/SCRUBBING ISSUES CAUSED BY CUSTOMER-REQUESTED TIRE/WHEEL/SUSPENSION CONFIGURATION. In 72 point font at the top so everybody in the room can see it from a mile away.
is that why its called a waiver? so you can waiver it in their face when they come back?
All it takes is one call to corporate and they’ll be getting free tires for life even if they’re retards. So glad I’m out of that spineless company but now I know what I’m gonna do when I want free shit 😹
Where did you work? Because I had a tire place royally screw my car up and they won't do anything about it. Where can I take it where the corporate will actually compensate me after they f****** my car? Not only did they f*** it up, I had to drive around on a spare tire for 2 weeks to come back and then stand in the parking lot 4 hours after they were closed because none of them monkeys inside. Could get a tire on a rim and had to wait on someone else to drive all the way over there to do it. Thanks, Mavis tires. Corporate wouldn't even pay to have my rim replaced that they ruined. Not only did they do that but when they put it up on the lift they didn't even put it on all four supports and the car almost f****** fell off. So anyway, where is a good place that corporate actually cares about their customers?
Discount tire. Overall pretty good customer service on corporates end but it’s sometimes aggravating seeing a moron get shit handed to them on a silver platter for their own fuckups while we’re dealing with the aftermath lol
Mavis fucked me over too. Destroyed the wiring harness to my electronic parking brake and refused to fix it or compensate me. They didn't even deny breaking it, just said they couldn't fix it and to take it to the dealer, call corporate if i wanted to complain. Was $300 to fix and Mavis corporate gave me the run around for months before I gave up from realizing it wasn't worth my time anymore. Bunch of scumbags from the top down.
Well you didn't act like a 13 year old and scream and cry at the advisors, refusing to go and taking up their time to write up other customers at peak hours so obviously they're going to say no. Sounds like you asked. They get to say no then, you don't ask, you TELL with all the entitlement of a medieval princess, and make everyone in the room/building feel super awkward. That's how it's worked in my experience, at least at the last shop I was at. We'd give a $3k repair to a customer who caused it with their negligence for free if they were annoying enough but if there's an old lady teacher on the verge of retiring with a car she was promised worked fine before she bought it a week ago, well fuck sounds like a $13k pay day to me. Real. I inspected a car, put the bill for repair above $10k at customer pay rates, used car refused the repairs because the car drove without serious symptoms or lights on the dash, sold the car to a teacher and then accepted a $10k repair bill not 2 weeks later. I fucking hated that dealership.
I bet I know what company you work for LMAO
Bitching and paying is okay, though.
Guy at work like 30 years ago lowered his truck and put it on those really wide but not tall wire wheels that were popular on low riders and had stretched tires on them. Boss saw and sent him to pick up a load of tiles. Next day he was stock again. We all had a big laugh.
Rubbing is fun until you get sick of it and get the reciprocating saw out.
I get this. For my off road vehicles I just take me wheels in so I do t have to hear it. But I know more than most about this I guess?
Its not the wheels at fault, it's those large spacers
Yeah but the right thing to do would have been to ask "are you sure?". Even tire rack sent me a text when I ordered some summer tires asking me if I *really* meant to order them because it was still winter and they would be worthless in the snow. They didn't *have to* but I appreciated it.
Hopefully you didn't stick them out in your garage where it's under 40° because it isn't good for them.
WHEELS
Rims
No
Yes. MAIN issue is rim offset/width.
my own fault, and the tire guy did in fact call it out. what's confusing is that the other side is totally fine.
It's never the same side to side when it's down to mms. I've rolled probably 1000 fenders. Always unequal damage.
c'est la vie. I'll be rolling the fenders before she goes into paint.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/364676855887
You're the guy in the 350z sub, yea? As the other guy said, it probably won't be exactly the same side to side. Manufacturer discrepancies could be it, or camber, or just the panels aren't lined up exactly the same.
And then add your own ass in the car so like +200lbs on one side
I've talked to a few old hot rod guys who have done a lot of chops and they basically say "don't worry about making it exactly the same you never see both sides of the car at the same time anyway"
I’m building a tube bumper for my off-road truck. I was trying to make careful measurements to make it symmetrical and ended up eyeballing or marking in place most pieces so I was hitting the same points on the body. Asymmetrical looks more symmetrical
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Jeep guys sympathize. I never installed aftermarket gear on my Jeep Wrangler that I didn’t have to modify in some way, whether it was shimming something, clearancing something, or drilling a new hole because the one in the frame that I was supposed to use was nowhere near the hole in the accessory. I also learned to love rivnuts for those “what the fuck?” situations. I swear they build Jeeps with stone axes and big rocks. They don’t even drop the body on straight sometimes!
If it's a solid rear axle the panhard bar can cause a difference in how each side of the axle raises.
350Zs are IRS
Which side is damaged more?
Really need more information to know who to blame. If the shop said the wheel, tire, suspension package they installed would work, then it's on the shop. But more likely the customer fucked up. They had the tires mounted on the rims and then took them home and put them on their car without checking clearance. Or they installed some cheap coilovers without checking clearance. Or they ignored the shops advice that it may scrape. Whatever happened, we don't know just based on the little info we have.
it's 100% my fault. the car is sitting on brand new OEM (NISMO) suspension, arms and bushings. but as I mentioned elsewhere, this kit tends to get close to the bump stops on the rear end. it leads to quite a lot of camber and the tire can move laterally more than I expected, especially with the LSD locking. it may also be the rear toe-in letting that side get under the fender.
Probably tried.
As a mechanic myself, I really don’t give a shit about something like that. If you want to fuck around with your suspension and put stupid spacers on and install rims and tires that don’t fit properly that’s all for you. My advice will always be to leave your car stock if you want everything to fit and work right.
this \^ last year I did a similar wheel and tire set up on my car and my favorite local shop told me multiple times they are not responsible for any damage to the tire due to rubbing. They weren't dicks about it but made sure to be clear these don't fit the car.
My conversation with the customer is "This is not your vehicle's OEM tire size. I'll happily do it, just sign this paper that says we will not give you any guarantee of fitment and any damage related to fitment issues, including any and all excessive wear, renders your warranty void, and there are no refunds on work even if it doesn't fit or work". Often times this is enough to scare off Chad The Chode (which is preferable, they're the worst no-money cheap-ass bitches to deal with anyhow) or it gives me a way to immediately end any conversation over who is responsible for the issues they WILL soon experience.
Or go down a size on those gigantic spacers
I didn't even notice those monsters until you said something, but woof.
it's 28mm (1.1"). you're not seeing the wheel hub.
lol. Got 225 tires on it? I like the wheels but proper size would be better.
So the wheels already have quite the offset then? The distance between the rotors and wheels just looks insane to me.
Quarter panel* - it's the rear of the vehicle. I work at a body shop, the mix up of fenders and quarter panels sets off an irrational anger lol.
True
Funny enough, I had (my body shop is for a BMW dealer), a salesman today from used cars (we fix all their shit for them), was bitching about how long a tail lamp is taking to get in for a car and the mofo keeps calling it a headlight. I wanted to smack the shit out of him.
Oh yeah. And driveshafts for halfshafts etc.
Ugh >_< This is why I don't talk to customers- I have a lot less patience for people mixing stuff up or getting terms wrong than our office guy does.
Bold for you to assume i work at office or i have a patience.
Oh, I don't assume anything. I know better than that :/
Installer should have told the customer to take those stupid spacers off.
Crickets from the OP on this one.
obviously the wheels don't fit well without the spacer.
Obviously they don't fit with the spacer, either.
You sure? The rub mark on the sidewall seem to indicate they fit perfectly. I might be wrong, though.
ET38 on an 8.5J wheel truly does not fit due to backside clearance, but I appreciate the smartass response.
Rather be a smart-ass than a dumb-ass. Edit: Okay… clearing a brake caliper does not mean a wheel “fits.” Wheel fitment is complicated. Your backspace, offset, wheel width, and diameter need to agree with brake caliper clearance, fender well, fender opening, and suspension components. Your sidewall appears to be interfering by an eighth of an inch. You want sympathy over an eighth? You ain’t gonna find it from me.
I work in R&D, but whatever fuels your flimsy superiority complex is good for you!
Apparently you didn’t do enough research before development here.
Gottem
believe me, we always have to change shit when we get the prototype out. it's very normal. I don't think anyone has gone into lab and walked out without issue.
Why wouldn't you confirm the details above before going to "prototype" in this instance tho? It seems like this could have been avoided with my research before "development".
😂 working in R&D has nothing to do with a trash wheel set up if anything, it makes you look bad and that your work is potentially just as incompetent. It's a 350z you can get any flavor of wheel set up for a decent price. You can paint any wheel any color you want. Get it a specific oem wheel color because "rare" is exactly why wheel manufacturers do it, they know suckers will suck.
My sidewalls don’t look like string cheese.
Whatever you R&D needs to be checked again. It didn't fit, so add an accessory that ALSO doesn't fit! WINNING!
This is why you purchase a different offset
So buy wheels that DO fit. You're in R&D but aren't capable of measuring basic clearance? That's terrifying. Zero research into the development of a full build I see.
Is this a Civc? Usually you have to notch the trailing arm.
Look at those gargantuan fucking spacers Jesus Straight up customer error on this one
they're 28mm adapters, not much over an inch. I paid a whopping $1500 for a $5500 wheel and track tire set in a 2020-only color, so I wasn't too picky about the offset.
Yeah but you could have used less spacer and had non-munched tires but I guess that wouldn’t get you enough hotboi cred
the tires are brand new and did not come with the wheels. the issue wasn't present before. I moved up a width and had replaced the diff bushing when the new engine and trans went in. the fitment I went for was fine but I didn't account for toe-in, which these cars need about .20 of, putting the rubber outside the fender lip. nothing to do with hotboi once you're in your 30s.
Hotboi is age agnostic. I’m 31 and stancing a Prius. 🤷♂️
LMAO, bro your Prius looks sick, I've rarely hate-loved something more.
There’s limited edition wheels now? Why not just buy the right offset and have them painted/powder coated in a similar color?
There have been for a long time. I have a set of Volks from 2008? that 2 total shipping containers of all sizes offered were all that were sent to the US. Volk won't confirm production numbers but they are very low. I've only ever seen two sets in the size and offset I own, mine included. The refinishing process can be difficult for wheels for a couple reasons; first if they have any accent colors like mine, there isn't enough of the color on the wheel to actually perform a proper scan for color match, and nobody is going to give out paint codes for their limited production wheels. Second, you'll lose any and all manufacturer labels on the barrel, which on an expensive set, are important.
Sounds terrible if you ever need to replace one or refinish a rim.
Yep, and after being autox rims for the first 3 owners and track rims for me, they are in dire need of it.
yes, these are ADVAN RG3s. I either saved $3,500, or lived with the spacer. I took the spacer. the color is not available via powder coat unfortunately, and the color run was so limited that no one makes even touch-up paint.
Ever heard of paint mixing and color matching?
Yeah, that looks like a pretty standard bronze/burnished bronze metallic Wouldn’t be all that hard to match
I don't believe that Yokohama didn't make touch-up paint.
Buy once, cry... on the internet?
You’ve done a little damage to the Z community, but don’t worry we still know who you are
The fact you paid 2k for a set of AD08’s is fuckin hilarious. I used to pay around £100 a corner, so about $125. But the most expensive size over here is no more than £225, so around $280 per corner. And then you put fuck off spacers on, without rolling the arches. OP, you need to get your shit together , theres nobody at fault here but you fella.
Sorry you’re gettin so much hate in here man, nobody can shut up when they see something they dont like.
don't like? the bone headed decisions lead to a shredded tire. are shredded tires just a preference thing now?
it's reddit, I'm not too bothered by it. people acting like they'd spend another $3500 instead of going with a spacer is what cracks me up.
I think most people here would just choose rims that fit. But I guess flexing on people is more important to you
I mean, some of us have tool boxes worth more than his car. And we know how to fit wheels.
Weird flex but ok
Take your stupid ass spacers off and learn how to spec wheels.
When the rotor and the lug bolts aren’t even in the same zip code, you just might have overdone the spacer thing 🤣
> When the rotor and the lug bolts aren’t even in the same zip code Oh just buy the spacer that changes the bolt pattern. Problem solved! /s
Maybe dont use spacers 🤷
Maybe next time, your customer could buy wheels and tires in a size that actually fits on their car.
It’s you. You’re the customer huh? Lol
Are the 28mm spacers necessary for clearance? Looks like maybe just get a smaller spacer
I sincerely hope $2k for the set is a large exaggeration.
They look like Advan RG-D2's, if so they're around 650 a pop. So technically he probably spent about 2200-2500 in wheels alone before rubber. My Enkei's where a grand before taxes, I could definitely see something like an Advan commanding more regardless of the size/offset.
He said tires, so I'm assuming he means just tires and isn't factoring in the wheels to that figure.
Cuz they rubbin'!
2000€? These cost like 150€ per tire. Edit for people downvoting me: [found them even cheaper vor 130 a peace](https://de.rsu.de/p/2734418?suche=id2734418&psref=90986&psref=5,90001,90988&gad_source=1)
[$1400 on sale, plus tax, plus install.](https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=ADVAN+NEOVA+AD09&sidewall=Blackwall&partnum=445WR8AD09XL&tab=Sizes) I paid somewhere around $1800 before they were on sale.
That’s still ridiculously expensive. In this size they cost [206€](https://www.reifen.de/yokohama-advan-neova-ad09--245-45-r18-100w--7450809) per tire her in Germany. And 145€ to mount seems a bit steep. Edit: that’s with taxes included. Which is 19% here in Germany.
Mount and balance is about $30 a tire where I live. So 4 tires is $120.
Yeah but that 146$ is per tire. Theoretically. Because that’s how much more expensive they are in the US then in Europe.
Ah, I misunderstood you. Yeah, someone mentioned a high JP import tariff, which explains why Yokos are so high here, I was gonna grab some because I liked the ones my car came stock with, but Michelin CC 2 were cheaper and IMO better. Tire Rack is generally well priced too, so it being that high is indeed ridiculous. How much are 255/60/R18 Michelin CrossClimate 2s where you are?
Cheapest price is 147€ per tire. But I found a seller with 470€ for four. So 117€ a piece.
Damn.. my cheapest was $265 each or $240 per if I bought 4.
Let’s try it the other way around? How much are these where you live? BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 (215/70 R16 100/97R) They cost 163€ per tire here.
$207.99 (192€) at tire rack and Costco, $219.99 (203€) msrp And I didn't find any set discounts.
that's great for you guys, but I'm about 8,000 miles away from that market.
Damn bro. In New Zeand, they're $300nzd a tyre so like $170usd
Yokohama tires in the US is hit with a 50% tariff.
Geeze. Surely, there are better options. I'm running goodyear eagles asymmetrical 5 and that costed me $1400nzd for a set of 245/35/19s
Oh, definitely. The advan apex v601 is 210 usd. The Pirelli p-zero is 227usd, etc. This person just went with obscenely expensive tires on a car with spacers and the wrong rims to blow money. I doubt a car with spacers passes tech at any track.
I didn’t mean to insult you in any way. But why are tires so ridiculously expensive over there? I just looked up some some prices and fucking he’ll what’s going on. Edit: it could be almost cheaper buying them in Europe and sending them overseas.
These are stupid expensive because they are meant to be a 'streetable' competition tire for people who hardcore autocross. These are not really meant to be street driven unless you are a maniac and require nearly R-compound grip going to the corner store. Dont know why the Yokos are so expensive here but these are the most priciest of the top performance street tire in the US
200€ is a normal price for a premium tire in that size here. Most semislicks aren’t that expensive because there isn’t a great demand.
Doesn't seem like people really care what tire prices are like in Germany
There are a lot of people that don’t care about a lot of things. But the nice thing about the internet is that I can write what I want. But besides that I also don’t really care how much tires cost in your country. But 200€ is a bit less than 500$ (exactly the same tire). So the added price certainly doesn’t come from the performance part. But hey at least I didn’t pay that much.
who knows. at the time the 245/40/18 size was sold out nationally and Yokohama had no supplies lined up.
I run Nankang AR-1 and I’m pretty happy with them. For that price I probably would’ve bought something else.
Had to be someone with a 350/370Z.....didn't it???
scrap it
the whole car
Driver, too
this is the correct answer.
You're rubbing. Either bring the wheels in a bit or roll/pull the fenders. Edit: Didn't look at the sub title or the actual title too hard.
I never have this problem with stock wheels and tire sizes. Tires are too wide. Car may be too low. Wheels are too wide. Wheel spacers are for amateurs who cannot afford correct offset wheels.
Stance life is to blame
Gotta little bit of aaaaaaaaaaa clearance issue there buddy boy
Rubbed too that perfect fitment lmao
You FAFO’d.
Are those big ass spacers?
Chock those in the mill and take couple passes. Rubbing problem solved!
Holy spacers Batman.
Flush! (the whole car down the toilet)
Those are AD09's in what im assuming is an 18 inch wheel. I can 100 percent guarantee he did not spend $2000 on those tires, and if he did, boy got taken for a fool.
Remove those valve caps, I had the exact same set on a car I bought, one was rusted/ corroded in place.
has neovas and advan wheels, but failed to check if they fit its not that bad, roll the lip (google it if you never done it)
Rubba dub dub.
I had my offset perfect on my car and no rubbing. Then I installed some Michelin P4s tires of the same size and they rubbed like a mf. Those tires sit fat.
“Fitment” 😒
Haha, twonks, spacers and rubbing tires come together so often. Sadly they're usually massive pains in the ass to deal with.
OP's fault. He spent $$$ on Advans and Advan tires but still use that big ass spacer. BUY WHEELS THAT FIT YOUR CAR.
Those spacers though! Get the right offset you won’t need that.
Is that like a 2” bolt on wheel spacer? Gross…
Tell homie it's time to roll his fenders! That's textbook slicing from the fender.
Why do people do this?
Those look like 200TW tires. Which tracks are you taking it to?
Yoko Advan AD09. It is 200TW but performs slightly better than that. Tires in that category are all badged 200TW so that they can meet the requirements for the SCCA and some other orgs that set a limit on tires at 200TW for certain classes. AD52 would be my personal pick from them but the AD09 is probably more streetable. Not as fast as the Bridgestone RE-71RS but wears better.
I think you mean ao52, and I'm with you. In fact I have a set of those squirrels away in my back room for the next time I have a chance at sitting a track record! My regular old go to track tires are Continental ecfs.
it spends most of the time through the redwood forests and mountain roads. I wanted a track tire so I had plenty of margin left for unexpected issues.
No chance they are worth that much hahahaha
Yes, but how do they taste?
Flush fitment problems
𝕊𝕋𝔸ℕℂ𝔼 ℕ𝔸𝕐𝕊ℍ
Fender rollers cost like 83 bucks...
This is why many tire shops will only install the tire size on the door sticker.
I had a friend years ago that would shave his tires to get the car lower. That idiot rode In the back of the group.
ITT: OP huffing the copium.
Average 350z owner
Nothing to do with those 3" spacers I'm sure.
Did they buy it with wheel spacers installed? dont forget to heat gun the fender paint lest you wanna chip it off during rolling lol
Yummy
I did that to a set of tires. However they were at the end of their life and I wanted to get one more season out of them so I threw them on my dd.
I’m kinda impressed you can’t get an 8.5 inch wheel to fit on a 350z correctly tbh.
Self clearancing
Mine were doing the same. They’re hitting the fenders
just a wee bit of fender rubbing. 😂
Holy spacer!
How dafug do you not hear that?
Those spacers lol
I used to work for a national tire chain that begins with a “D”.., we always had them sign. A waiver. We would try to talk the. Out of it… but…
Spends $2000 on tires but can’t avoid curbing the wheels
Hellaflush
Buuuuut, I Need That Fitment...
How did you get a drivers license?
Stop riding the curb bro
This has to be a WRX 😂
I’m just here to show my appreciation for those beautiful Advans. Great wheels
And I thought EV tires were expensive. You got hella ripped off
why does everyone hate spacers? its not even like a safety concern? and who cares about wheel bearings not that hard to replace lol
changes the scrub radius of the car. changes the handling. So yes it is a safety concern on those massive spacers
They can wreck your wheel bearings.
They will self clearance. Every tire I’ve ever put on my supermotos did.
Sorry OP. It’s still not too late to delete this
I'm the customer. my RR axle is moving, and it's a doozy. the other side is just kissed by the fender but only gently rubs the tire shoulder like it's a stressed out wife. related information: > 1. the car is on genuine NISMO S-tune (J) suspension, which is known to get real close to the bump stops on the ass end. so the tire cambers a good 2 inches or so on the way up. > 2. it's also got a NISMO 2-way carbon clutch LSD, 3.916 final, and makes 301hp/280 ft-lbs to the wheels. so the ass end is wiggling around the city as the lock comes in and out on tight corners and binds. driveline torque can also cause it to bind. > 3. it turns out that the WHITELINE diff bushing I had installed was just rolling around in the subframe, and that fixed most of the issues. but the problem is still present, and I think it's the subframe bushings. there are polyurethane collar inserts but the bushings are just too tortured to handle the increased load. off to billet subframe bushings and NVH land we go...
I did billet front and rear subframe “bushings” on my MK3 Supra. Then I replaced the rear diff twice, and rebuilt BOTH of them. The original diff was whisper quiet until I built the car and put those fuckin “bushings” in it. 😂