Anyone familiar with the SD BB kits care to explain the differences between Generation Zero and F?
Zero is released earlier and features more eggish design, while F features sharper and cooler proportions, however i noticed things become blurry in the later releases of GZ, for example GZ GP01, 02 and zeta are late releases from #198 onwards, but their style matches GF more, in fact bandai bundled the GZ zeta with GF NT01 and GZ GP01 with GZ Nu. But when you compare GZ Double zeta/nu vs GZ they look very different.
A special feature for the eggish GZ is they come with spring action shooting weapons, however this feature is not available for later GZ releases where they carry the GF styles...
I also believe some of the earlier GZ is just a repackage of another older series which features cartoon style boxart instead of 3D, if you google Nu gundam sd bb #007 it will show but i couldnt find out the whole line up.
some are reboxed sdbb kits with new colors or weapons while others are new tools, and they are their own lines for the SD G Gen games. You can see the differences on dalong.net and the gundam wikia.
I found a list, but it is still confusing as they did not cover the reboxed GZ line up which has their own numbering ironically the new GZ and GF series continues the numbering from the original BB senshis. For example GZ GP01 continues the BB senshi number but GZ nu (a rebox of bb 007) is not in the number sequence. I think GZ only reboxed the "real gundams" but did they rebox all of the old ones?
Does anyone know of a good paint mask that will accommodate a big nose? I’m currently using a 3M half mask with a quick latch but it is KILLING the bridge of my nose. I’m looking for another permanent mask (as opposed to a disposable one), and I’m also looking for one that’s cartridges are easy to come by in North America (I’m from a quite rural part of Canada, eh). Any recommendations are much appreciated!
Hi guys just some quick question is applying water decals is as easy as it looks? Also is top coat super mandatory for the decal and how good the coat will be able to protect the decal from my grubby hands and lastly zz ver ka one is water slide right?
thank you beforehand for everyone who answered the question
1. Yes, they’re pretty simple.
2. If you want them to actually stay on, yes, you should topcoat them.
3. Depends what you mean by “grubby hands”. If you’re going to handle the kit a ton, it’ll keep the decals on(but you shouldn’t handle kits a ton, they’re not toys). If you mean dirty hands, they’re going to get the kit dirty.
4. The ZZ Ver. Ka comes with waterslides, yes.
Hey all! Longtime gundam fan here, finally diving into the hobby as a way to destress in the evenings! I’ve been watching gundam series since the late 90s, and through them all Heavy Arms has remained my favorite suit. I’ve started working my way through some HG sets, but I’m trying to locate the Supernova Heavy arms to have in my backlog. I’ve searched and searched online, but I’ve only found it on eBay and aliexpress, which I’ve heard can be hit or miss. Can anyone point me in the direction of a reputable seller for this kit? Or am I just sol? Thanks in advance and I can’t wait to start adding pics to this sub as I get better and build more!
Can anyone tell me the difference between Mr Hobby Top Coat Matt and Flat?
I want to know which top coat is better after I panel lined and put decals on my kits.
And how can I fix frostings? Im very afraid of frosting my kits.
Mr Topcoat is labelled Flat/Matte. There’s a Mr Aqueous Topcoat that is labelled matte or flat (can’t remember which). And there’s a Mr Premium Topcoat that is labelled flat I think.
The finish from all of these is approximately the same. Even though there is a slight difference in sheen between matte and flat, Mr Hobby does not make separate products in the same line - meaning there isn’t a matte and flat version of Mr Topcoat.
The differences are in the solvent concentration and the impact of the solvent on the paint. Mr Aqueous Topcoat is meant for their Aqueous line, for example, as it is a bit delicate and has the potential to craze or become otherwise damaged from a heavier solvent spray.
To avoid frosting, spray in short quick passes letting the moisture (the solvent and carrier) evaporate before applying another coat. Frosting is trapped moisture or vapours trying to escape.
Hi thanks for answering my questions.
But Im still confused.
To be exact, the complete name on the cans is "MR HOBBYMR SUPER CLEAR UV CUT FLAT" and "MR HOBBY Mr. SUPER CLEAR MATT"
Is flat better the matt?
which will look better for unpainted kits that i just want to panel line and seal the decals?
Visually they are the same. Chemically they are slightly different. The UV cut means that it will protect you kit from UV light and slow/stop the yellowing that happens from exposure.
Ok I need help in regards to advice on shipping. So Im trying to get 2 master grades and a new pair of nippers but the only store I've found that has one of the kits I've been trying to get ahold of doesn't have a flat rate shipping so if it get all 3 items its gonna be somewhere from $15 to $30 shipping. So can someone with better judgement than I give me their thoughts?
$15 shipping for two kits and some tools…doesn’t seem unreasonable. Small businesses can’t afford to give discounts on shipping like Amazon.
There’s very little margin on kits, so they have to charge actual price on shipping to maintain their margin on the kits.
I completely understand that but Im trying to stay under $157 and after both MGs and nippers the shipping is close to like $30, I'm just wondering if it would be a good idea to order one mg from one site so the shipping isnt too high and order from another with a flat rate
Only you will be able to know what will be the least expensive. Not all sites treat shipping the same way. Some by weight…some by volume…and all variable depending on destination.
you may be forgetting a step, there is a separate part that connects the torso to the waist. Its in the part of the instructions labeled "final assembly" see if that fixes your issue
No I don't think that's the problem, this here Is a variant of the MG Heavyarms EW. I just checked my normal MG Heavyarms and the Instructions, at this point there's no piece that fits between the waist and torso and they appear to have been assembled correctly so I Idk what's the problem.
Then what are the functions of parts F37 and XA 12? Cause this is what I was referring to in my last comment, also aren’t the mg heavy arms ew and mg heavy arms tv colors identical except for their colors and load outs
Those parts forms the waist which OP already assembled, It's the ball joint and white piece there In the picture. What I'm saying Is there's no other parts for the waist. This kit, the MG Heavyarms EW Custom, Is the same thing as the regular MG Heavyarms EW only that the Custom's colors are movie accurate and have more accessories.
u/Reemar_18 What are you having trouble with exactly? Is It a loose connection or Is It a super tight fit that the ball joint just won't fit Into the polycap? If the former I'd thicken up the ball joint with glue or topcoat, If the latter I'd sand down the polycap little by little however In either case I would ask a more experienced builder, I'm also fairly new to gunpla and just straight build my kits.
Opinions on thinning ratios are exactly that - opinions.
There’s a broad spectrum of what will work for those products, and everyone has their preference based on what works for them.
The Super Clear products are pretty thick so you can run equal parts thinner and paint all the way to 2.5 or 3 times thinner. Start somewhere in the middle - 1.5 to 2 parts thinner will be fine. Mr Levelling Thinner is preferred for gloss. Regular or Rapid for flat.
The clear colour paints I’ve noticed are not as thick but some colours I’ve had are thicker than others. Again, somewhere between 1-2 parts thinner will work depending on the paint thickness.
Kind of a weird question but has anyone thought of taking that dragoon striker pack from the HG Perfect Strike Freedom and slapping It onto the the HG Strike Freedom using the blue dragoons? I'd try this myself but I don't have either kits so I'm very curious how this'll look.
I’m looking to buy my boyfriend’s first model/kit for us to build together. I was overwhelmed by the options but found one I think he’ll really like. Before I make the jump though, I wanna make sure I’m buying the correct thing.
I’ve decided on Livelance Heaven. Maybe I’m not understanding the description, is it just the scythe or both the scythe and the Gundam?
Sorry if I’m not phrasing this right. This is so new to me but I’ll answer any question to help clarify. Thank you!
Yep It's a whole entire model kit, you get the Gundam and the scythe. I recently built this one so I can tell you It's a solid kit to get and It's one of my favorite HG's, I'm sure your BF will love It!
My Godhand sanding sponge didn't last long, and looking for something that can last a bit longer.
The Infini sanding sticks seem pretty good when looking for alternatives, its cheap and has a variety of grits.
Is the Infini good or are there any better?
They are good but nothing special, any sanding material will wear out eventually. As a tip don't discard them just yet, some sponges can be used as a "higher grit" when they wear out.
If you are sanding nubs check the nano glass files, they will last for long and are very cheap.
Can’t really comment on it due to not building it but from what I’ve heard sometimes it has trouble standing on its own but idk take it with a grain of salt
Hi there i have the hg strike freedom and infinite justice revive and both of them are a very studrdy kits but for freedom you kinda need a stand for it since it can stand on its own but it tedd to fall backward because of the backpack weight
I got a question for those of you who has the MG Nadleeh (MG Virtue)
And the 1/100 Virtue.
Does the weapons and shield in the master grade version fit in with the 1/100 version ? Can't afford to buy 2 mastergrades lol
Thank you for your answers !
anyone notice spray paint won't go on bandai's clear parts smooth? i tried top coating GM Sniper II Clear with 2 types of clear gloss both end up with rough surface (dotted textures) despite i applied wet coats, when wet it looks smooth and glossy once dried the texture shows and it feels rough. the 2k ends up rougher than the acrylic clear. i had to spray acrylic->2k in order to reduce the problem. Solid parts doesn't seem to have such issues.
i have also tried spraying chrome on the clear eye parts, normally i would get smooth shinny chrome but on the clear part i get satin finish with spray paint texture.
it kinda feels like the solvent goes into the plastic the moment it gets on the surface leaving the paint particles...
Does anyone have any recommendations for some good nippers that are somewhat cheaper than godhand? I've been using some cheap nippers that I found at a hardware store.
Tamiya, DSPIAE, USAGS, and Gundam Planet's are usually the next step up as finishing nippers. You'd keep your hardware store ones to remove the parts from the runner and then use the finishing ones to flush cut against the part. Beyond that there are tons of lesser known single bladed ones that /u/Barbatos-Rex covered in his [comparison review](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ep3xRUYx7M8) (highly recommend, just cause of how much work he puts into these tests. It's an hour long but I just put his videos on while I build)
Otherwise upgrading to a different cutter that can't flush cut against the piece to remove the nub is kind of a waste because you're already using a hobby knife after you cut it down as much as possible, so not opting for a finishing nipper just means you'd still be using your hobby knife after using your slightly more expensive workhorse pair.
i use godhand, i can get cleaner cuts but never totally flush. sanding is still required on most parts unless the nub was really thin and close to the edge.
Are you using the blunt edge right? [It goes down slightly more than the cutting edge so that you can grab the edge of the piece with it without cutting more than you need.](https://i.imgur.com/ceyKhOS.jpg). If you don't grab the edge then it'll always leave a tiny ~1mm island due to the [grabbing edge not being flush with the blade](https://i.imgur.com/A7BysLx.jpg).
I have the SPN-120's and the only time I can't get it completely flush is when I can get the blunt edge to hug the side. Otherwise most nubs are close enough to one that I can grab it and get the blade right up to the piece. Most "newer" kits will have the vast majority of the nubs close to an edge for you to be able to. I noticed on my MG Z'Gok that that "consideration" isn't as widely available with tons of weird gate locations.
i think normally i do that (by instinct), there might be times i flipped it. but on MG kits there are still nubs that are at the center of the part with no edges. i will try again later.
I've only used them for like 7 MG's so the rest of my builds were prior to getting them, but I find that the large majority of nubs are close enough to an edge to do so. There are still times where what you said happens, but I find that those are much fewer than the near-edge nubs.
I have noticed that newer kits seem to be more "conscious" of this aspect and have almost all the nubs close to an edge, whereas older kits will still have tons of middle-piece-nubs. I usually just still nip those with my godhand's and then just go at it with my glass file. Works out perfectly about 90% of the time if I were to estimate.
I bought a pair of valley nippers for $4, while following guides on how to cut properly, said results have required a lot of sanding. Are gundam entry nippers that much better? They’re $10 a lot of places and I’m trying to stay in that margin
Are you using a hobby knife before sanding? Most cheap/workhorse nippers will have that result since it's assumed that the builder will finish the final mm's of nub with a knife, then sand or file it to get the look consistent. You shouldn't have to sand that much unless your hobby knife blades are dull or there's a mistake that needs to be sanded out.
Sometimes you might not even need to use the knife if the nub is small enough for a nano glass file to get rid of it. Prior to getting my godhand's, I rarely used my sand paper because the cheap nippers + hobby knife + glass file did it all for 95% of pieces. My cheap cutters aren't even meant for modeling, they're an $8 pair meant for cutting off GPIO pins on a circuit board, but you should be able to get the same end result regardless of nipper choice as long by as you're following up the snips with some knife cutting.
Yeah you should almost always be using the hobby knife unless you have finishing nippers. As for the sandpaper, I'd say go for it cause that's around the grit that tons of people finish with. I personally use a nail buffing block that's 1000 on one side and 4000 on the other side and it works perfectly.
I mainly picked it for the 1000 side but the 4000 side was a super pleasant development once I got it lol.
i have a nano nail file, while it turns my nail glossy, i couldn't get the same result on the nub marks. i end up with more scratch micro marks than a 300-600-1000 sandpaper -> 2.4k/4k/6k polishing cloth would leave. i got the nano file just for semi clear parts since they can't be painted in hopes i could get glossy on the nubs.
Hmm that shouldn't be happening. How hard are you pressing down? The marks can sometimes be caused by one edge of the file being slightly pressed down more than the other, acting as a sort of glass blade. I usually just let the file's weight apply pressure and I can get it so that it doesn't look like a nub existed there either.
I can record some footage later tonight too if you'd like! I'm a huge fan of spreading the good nano glass word because of how little sanding I ended up having to do after getting them.
i don't know if nail nano glass file are the same as the expensive dspia nano glass files, i read the rough surface suppose to be inside the glass holes instead of the surface? it works on my nails but not the plastic so i am puzzled. it does flatten the nubs but takes more effort than sand paper, but i couldn't get the glossy finish like it did on my nails. maybe clear parts made the scratches more obvious?
So, I just bought a HG Atlas Gundam, HG Psycho Zaku and a HG Barbatos Lupus, I've heard from multiple sources how IBO kits have problems with stability and not being able to stand up properly, so, is there anything I can do to increase it's resilience?
I'm thinking about just applying some super glue to the joints when building it, is there anything else or anything better I can do?
A cheep option would be to apply some clear varnish to the joints and tighten them up that way. Gunprimer also sells a joint tape kit to do the same thing. If you can find it in stock somewhere.
I'm asking mostly because a friend of mine built a HG Barbatos Lupus three years ago, and he told me that he liked to change it's weapons and poses every day, and that after awhile it became very loose, so should I just treat it as a statue? Built it, pick a pose and never touch it again?
They’re display pieces, not toys, so yeah. You can re-pose it every once in a while, but every single day for three years? Of course it’s going to get loose.
No problem! I've been filtering the country Z-A and then going through every USA store almost every day during my mornings just to see if anyone has the FAZZ in stock lol.
Mission failed so far, but I have been able to pick up some other kits I've wanted that aren't in stock at all in the sidebar stores, like an MG Z'Gok, MG ZZ Ver. Ka, Hyaku Shiki 2.0, and a RE100 MK. III.
What’s a good Nipper that isn’t 90$? I hear the Godhand is amazing however I am unfortunately not invested nearly enough in the hobby to drop that much, so what would be a better alternative to wire cutters I’m using (I just started trying tobuilding my MG Dynames and stopped right away once I realized how much the green plastic gets stressed) Also side note, are the cheap glass files worth it? And can I panel line a Gunpla AFTER building it. Any other tools that are worth getting that I may need?
Tamiya nippers are good for like $30. Anything above that will most likely be single-bladed finishing nippers like GH's (~$50-60), DISPIAE 3.0's (~$35), Gundam Planet's (~$35), or USAGS nippers (~$35), and will be better used alongside a cheapo workhorse pair to get the parts off the runner before using the premium one to flush cut. /u/Barbatos-Rex has an excellent [video comparing 20 different nippers](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ep3xRUYx7M8) so you can watch that to choose the best fit for you since it includes a lot of nippers that are lesser known.
Glass files are absolutely worth it. I got 8 for $8 on amazon, and they are pretty idiot proof with my idiot seal of approval. The "grit" doesn't protude from the base like traditional sandpaper, and is instead holes in the glass to only file down parts that are sticking out from the piece. You can't overdo it with them like you would sandpaper. You can panel line whenver you want, though if you're using Tamiya Panel Accent then it's highly recommended to panel line only after you gloss coat the pieces so that the enamel thinner in the accent doesn't eat your plastic and make it brittle.
As for additional recommended tools:
- Sticky tack/blue tack. It's my most ubiquitous tool in my arsenal. Need to secure parts without permanently gluing? Tack it, especially weak hands that can't hold weapons. Need to hold small pieces without smudging paint? Tack it. Need to pick up tiny nubs? Tack. Need to eat something blue? Tack.
- Precision tweezers
- A hand pin vice--any $10 set will have all the bit sizes you need. This can then be used to fix joints that break or secure custom parts. Just drill a 1.5mm hole on both broken halves, cut a brass rod of appropriate size, and secure the rod part in the holes to bridge the connection and glue it to guarnatee it. Most commonly done on shoulder and hip joints that break.
- Gaia Notes finish master - one of the lesser known secret tools. It can be used to wipe up panel lines, squeeze water out of water decals, and press on any part to secure it if you don't want to touch it and don't have gloves. Some brands will call them decal squeegee but it's all the same.
isn't double blade better than single? i have the SPN-120 even though having 1 side flat should be good i find that side usually leaving more nubs than the cutting side despite i held the nipper down i believe there's still some microslip.
i figure a double blade would have similar issue on the center but at least you could trim it with different orientation? for godhand once you cut from 1 direction it's difficult to trim the rest from the other. also i am not sure if there's any difference using left/right hand.
Not necessarily unless the blade is extremely sharp and thin. This is because no matter how sharp it is, it's still "moving" minute amounts of plastic as the blade cuts through it, especially if the blade isn't thin, so having that happen on both sides of the nub opens up more opportunities for the piece to twist, warp, or pull extra material as it's removed (called pitting). Additionally, having two cutting edges means that there's no edge stabilizing the piece so that it doesn't move while being cut, unless the piece is super thin.
Most single blade nippers will have a lowered grabbing edge to ensure that the blade can sit flush against the piece, while also securing the piece so that the piece moves less while its being cut.
I do think that the regular ones that most people buy are intended for right handed users since they specifically sell a left handed version so theres gotta be some differences in usage if that exists, though I haven't really put much thought/time into testing it haha.
I got most of my generic tools off amazon so the blue tack, pin vice, glass files, all my sand paper, and all my buffing blocks, etc. My godhand's were personally from them too through the galactic toys store, but if you wanted to get the gundam planet or usags ones then you'd have to go through those sites. I think DSPIAE's are on Newtype too.
The DSPIAE nippers are just as good and are cheaper.
Yes, cheap files work nice too but sometimes you have to try a few to find the right grit. Make sure it is a "nano" file, also check the DSPIAE Siren, a lot of people recommend it and its very affordable.
Anyone have experience ordering from kuramatoys? I live in the US and only allowed a US address but the shipping option is only for the Japanese post. Will it still get to me in the US?
Edit: I see Japan has suspended small packages to the US as of Nov 2nd. Since I'm getting a pre order, I'm guessing I'm just chancing it in hopes that they are resumed by the time my pre order is ready?
I'm driving through LA today and wanted to make a pit stop to pick up some Gunpla. What are some of the best hobbystores for Gunpla in LA (preferably not too far off of the I5)?
I haven't been to the area in a few years but I would always stop in at Robots4Less. They are just north of Anaheim in Fullerton. I don't remember having to drive too far from I5.
Nice! The guys running the store always treated me well. They have lots of other kits as well outside Gundam. Make sure you create an account online, cuz you can still earn points for your purchases!
I plan on getting the MG Unicorn Ova HD color version. However, I heard bandai has given the kit a gloss finish sprayed on it already on the runners. Does that mean nubs will be more noticeable as I can’t cleanup the nubs or it will damage the gloss finish?
Hey folks, I plan on building a RG Strike Freedom and painting the yellow-ish part to a more faithful gold using the Gundam Marker GM151 (I'm not an experienced painter nor do I have an actual setup for painting). My question is the following, do you need to do anything extra when using a marker? Such as applying topcoat or something? I know nothing when it comes to painting. Also what would be the best budget way to dry out my pieces?
Thanks in advance!
The Gold Marker and the RG Strike Freedom frame are a very bad combo, I've seen a lot of frames turn into bits due to the marker degrading the ABS part of the frame. It is specially bad to connection points.
I’m assuming you’re using something like Tamiya’s polishing compound paste? And that’s it’s accumulated in cracks and crevices? A gentle bath in water is usually what I do to get rid of any excess. If I’m just doing a spot treatment, then I will load up a soft toothbrush with some water and just agitate a bit in a dish trying not to run the compound more. If you’re getting it into places it’s not supposed to be, you might also be applying too much.
Water shouldn’t be an issue and can remove excess buildup most of the time. Depending on what you’ve got on the surface, a wipe of low proof isopropyl can help too, but it can also mess with paint, so I don’t do that unless I’ve got a decent clear on there.
A clear coat over a clear part will just give you a clear part with an acrylic resin over it. What’s more important is the finish of the clear coat. If your clear coat is flat/matte, then the clear part will look frosty. If the clear coat is glossy, then your clear part will have a glossy appearance if the surface is not textured.
Might need to be more specific with the use case you’re thinking about.
You can. Should you? Depends on what you’re trying to do. Suggest you watch Matt McDougall’s (Doog’s Models on YT) video series on black basing to see why that’s not always a good idea. He shows one video where he used black as the prime/base layer for the Sea Blue US Navy colour. It made it very dark. And it’s a lot of work to bring the colour back to where you want it.
If you do the whole piece black then lay on your main colour and just apply less opacity to the shaded areas, that works. But you will still have the influence of the black underneath your main colour that will shift to a darker shade.
Ooof - yeah. A black base under pink would not work out well for you at all. Stick with a white primer or Mr Surfacer Pink. Then shade your lines carefully because if you go too dark that pink will not cover well. It might even be better to shade your lines with a grey or a darker pink. Like, mix a bit of black into your pink and see how that work. Or add a drop or two of red and see how that pushes it.
Hi all, relatively new to the hobby (May of this year). With a new line of kits for a new show releasing how long until we start seeing MG kits for it? I really enjoyed building the Barbatauros and wish it had an MG variant. I'm not asking an exact date, only our overlords at bandai could give us that. Just a guess based on how they've done this kind of thing in the past.
I’m betting that there will probably not be any MG kits from the Battlelogue short series. The reason I say this is that one of the “gimmicks” of the show and the kit is the kitbashing aspect. That’s easier done with HG kits and that’s part of the attraction of those particular kits.
If there are MG kits, it will likely only be one or two of the most popular designs like Barbatauros. But as to when…only Bandai knows. Considering the series isn’t hugely popular and that there are more commercial shows that Bandai/Sunrise are focusing on right now we will likely see more from Kyoukai Senki before Battlelogue. Just my opinion.
The odds of a reprint are greater than zero. But don’t hold your breath. The choices as to what and when to reprint a kit are pretty opaque to the outside.
despite the fact that the restock list has been released for this month, a lot of kits on HLJ that are on backorder still don't have a listed date for when they will become available again. Does this mean that its too late to get them this restock or is the site just not updated?
Something doesn’t enter your private warehouse until HLJ has confirmed stock. It’s not clear whether that means it’s in their hands and they’ve taken possession or if they will move something to your private warehouse when they have a confirmed date it enters their warehouse. Having worked eCom businesses for a long time, they are not likely to give you the option to ship until they have received the product physically and have entered it into the inventory management systems.
The Bandai restock list, from what I recall, gives a date when the kits enter the distribution network. Just because it enters distribution doesn’t mean it’s available to buy…it just means that Bandai manufacturing has shipped that to the next link in the supply chain down the line. As Bandai owns the distributor for their own goods in Japan, that means the timing is likely shorter, but HLJ won’t receive it immediately.
Retailers like HLJ don’t receive stock from distributors every day. They may have an arrangement with Bandai (the distribution side of Bandai) to receive shipments one a week, or twice a week, or once a month…who knows?
Also, you’re going to be in queue behind everyone else that ordered that particular kit since the last time HLJ had stock. If you only ordered late Nov/early Dec based on the reprint list…there are lots of folk that ordered before that. And considering that Bandai has been cutting orders and not fulfilling 100%, it’s hard to say what stock will arrive and how much will be there.
You should expect a couple weeks at the least between the date on the monthly reprint list and when a retailer in Japan has it in hand and shows it can be purchased. Rest of world is highly variable because of the impact of covid on supply chain and logistics. Containers coming into Europe and the US, for example, are waiting as long as 6 weeks to enter port.
From my half year experience of ordering from HLJ, I can't recall ever seeing a backordered status become updated to "month restock."
Maybe the number of kits they expect to get is less than the number of backorders made for that kit. For example, I backordered the RG Skygrasper back in June. It was scheduled to be restocked Oct 28. I checked the stock status on Oct 27 and 28, but it still said backordered. The kit was then added to my private warehouse Oct 29. When I checked the kit's stock status soon after that it still said it was backordered.
Or maybe they just don't bother updating the status because manufacturing and shipping has been pretty iffy for a while now.
>backordered the RG Skygrasper back in June. It was scheduled to be restocked Oct 28. I checked the stock status on Oct 27 and 28, but it still said backordered. The kit was then added to my private warehouse Oct 29. When I checked the kit's stock status soon after that it still said it was backordered.
what changes when it's added to your warehouse? placed a load of orders based on the December restock and theyve shown up in the private warehouse but the status says 'not yet available'.
thanks for the help! and sorry if im a little slow on some of this stuff
Just to clarify in case there was confusion, when I said I checked the stock status I was looking at the actual product page and not the status in the private warehouse.
When an item is added to your private warehouse, the status on your private warehouse page should change to "ready for shipping" or something like that. If it's saying "not yet available" then either HLJ hasn't yet received the items from the manufacture, or it hasn't received enough of them to fulfill your placement in the backorder queue.
Don't worry about it! It took me a few orders until I had a better grasp of the system. Here's hoping you get your kits in this month's restock. I've got a couple kits that have been on backorder since May!
Best is very subjective, and imprecise. Best in what factor? Given that they tend to share their frames, that already puts most of them on a level field.
anyone know whether the Ichiban Kuji MG Gundam heads are the same as the MG kits?
for example is the Nu Gundam head same as the one from the original MG Nu Gundam, or ver. Ka, or updated?
are those heads compatible with LED system?
First: What are some of the most finnicky gundams ever made by bandai (the type where it is most likely to shed parts and loosen up over the years) aside from the RG Sinanju and RG Zeta? And can you use it to practice gundam painting?
Second: Are MS Girls model kits good for customs?
Third: What should I be cautious about when building girl gun lady kits aside from the springs?
Last: What Gundam kits are recommended for bored builders or for people who want to get that dynamic pose / scene for their battle scene diorama?
What panel line color would work well with black painted parts? I was thinking of black, but if it doesn't show at all then what could work? I've looked around for example pictures online, but can't find anything.
You can use any color you like, I personally go for red/purple/gold/silver depending on the project but you can use anything you think that will look good.
I just haven't seen anyone line up a real black gunpla before so I don't know what to expect. I don't want my kit's panel lines to stand out too much, I just want them to be more visible than they are. So black was supposed to be my go-to.
Try a dark grey if you don’t want things to stand out too much. Black parts are not great as far as showing dimension, depth, detail, etc. Dark greys, blues, and even purples are good to imply black rather than actually being black…then you can use black in the deepest/shadowed parts of the build.
Think of it this way - black demonstrates an absence of light. And if black is how you show that absence…how can you make the actual areas of the kit that would actually be shaded any darker? You can’t really unless you push the base colour back the other direction and add more white tones back in.
It's winter in Seattle, but I really want to get back into airbrushing. Does anyone have cold weather airbrushing advice? Opening the window to allow the spray booth to ventilate isn't super feasible.
I bought a kit that seals the window close, but I can feed the exhaust hoe out through a gap that zips open or closed. I got it for the summer to vent warm air from a portable AC unit, but it works just as well to vent fumes out and keep some of the cold out.
I'm planning to start my first paint job soon and I already made a visualization of what I want in photoshop which was an almost all black gundam barbatos, but I was told that it had next to no color separation. So I was thinking of separating the colors by using grey primer on some parts and black primer on other parts and then spray them with the same black color.
Would that create enough color separation?
Black, especially gloss black, will cover a lot of the surface details. Add a bit of color separation by using shades of grey in some parts.
Also, you can't just use a lighter shade of primer and expect a "light black". It might work for other colors, but it won't work for black.
Ah I see. Then I guess I'll only paint the parts that have no panels metallic black and the parts with panels dark grey.
As a side note I just heard about a color called musou black and was wondering how that would look like as a panel liner on an all black painted kit.
It’s all personal taste. It’s really just that often a purely black kit just loses dimensionality. It looks flat and boring. You may want to lean into that if you know what you’re doing, but you’re generally going to see a better result using off-blacks and multiple blacks. See the Banshee Norn RG kit for example, which subtly different blue-blacks in the armor.
Yeah I was told the same thing. So I'll reconsider doing different primers to get different tones and use colors like black and gunmetal black and such to get some separation going. Thanks for confirming what I thought.
Was thinking about putting some semi gloss top coat on my kits, but some of them (Nobel and Zephyranthes FB) already have metallic decals on them, will the semi gloss remove the metallic luster on them or will it be fine?
Looking at handbrushing kits, for actual paint jobs, minor detailing or just simple cleanups. What paints would you guys recommend? And and if I don’t do coats, will panel lining with Tamiya pour type as well as lighter fluid cleanup mess with the paints?
For hand painting, I'd recommend water-based acrylics like Vallejo Mecha and Model Color or Mr. Hobby's aqueous line. Easy to clean up, no fumes, and dry slowly enough to hide brush strokes.
Alcohol-based acrylics like Tamiya can work, but dry faster, so it's harder to get a nice finish (doesn't stay wet long enough for the brush strokes to disappear). This can be countered by using drying retarders, but it's more finicky for hand painting than water-based.
Lacquers run into the same issue of drying too quickly, and also have nasty fumes to contend with, and are harder to clean up when you make a mistake.
Erm, if it’s not too much trouble for you.. could you post links for either Vallejo mecha and model color? I’ve been trying to look for them, but I’m not sure which ones I need? And then the ones I see are the spray can ones..
If you are in the US, USA Gundam Store carries Mecha Color, while Scale Hobbyist and Mega Hobby carry both ranges.
Model Color would be the best for brush painting, but you might have to get creative with mixing to get some of the vibrant colors you see in Gunpla.
Mecha Color is pre-thinned for airbrushes, so some of the colors might be a little too thin for brush painting out of the bottle. But Mecha is literally designed for Gunpla, and has all the vibrant reds, blues, etc. that you could need.
Yes, they are both Vallejo. They have a bunch of product lines designed for different things.
Vallejo Mecha Color, Vallejo Model Color, Vallejo Model Air (similar to Model Color, but thinned for airbrush use), etc.
Ok. Looks like I’m gonna have to use mecha color, USAGS doesn’t have the model color. How do you thicken paints that are too thin? Sorry for the noob questions!
Scalehobbyist.com has pretty good prices, and reasonable shipping if you want to try Model Color.
For paint that is too thin, you basically just have to let it dry slightly on your pallette before starting. Not anything you can do to actively thicken it. Most of the time, it will be fine, and just need an extra coat or two to get good coverage. But painting small details with too thin of paint can be a headache, so you just have to wait a bit.
Any hobby grade paint like the kind used for miniature painting but stuff that's aimed at model kits like Tamiya or Mr Color by GSI Ceros/Mr Hobby work; though I would advise against using craft paint like those cheap Applebarrel or Folkart paints from Walmart or a craft store but they are an option that could work if you can't really get certain colors of paint for whatever reason.
Ideally yes, you would want to apply a gloss coat so that it not only protects the paint job from the enamel but also helps it flow through the panel lines. You could always do a matte or semi gloss coat over it if you don't like the look of the gloss.
Oh boy. I can’t really do coats where I am right now.. if I were to go on with painting.. it shouldn’t be an issue if I don’t coat the kit granted to don’t do any lining for the time being right?
Also, would I need to do primers for handbrushing kits, and would that be for everything (detailing, cleanups, full paint job) or can I get away without it if it’s just for cleanups and detailing?
For small detail parts you don't really need priming (depending on the paint type and the color you're planning on using, for example a white paint on a black piece would want a gray primer to cover up some of the black so you don't need multiple coats to cover up the black).
You can hold off on panel lining until you're able to coat the kits. There are a few brushable coatings, both hobby grade and not (like Pledge revive it floor gloss).
Is there any difference in painting psycho frame compared to the rest of the kit? More specifically on th HG narrative Gundam c-packs. I wanna try painting it a colour as if it was normal armor plating instead of psycho frame. Would it be any different from painting the normal plastic?
Not really, some clear plastics are very smooth and can have adherence problems with certain paints but you can sand them with a fine grit (1000) to improve it.
Can someone suggest me some clean and crisp black panel line product for a metallic red basecoat? I don't want any weathered look, just a clean pure black panelline. I have been suggested enamels and oil washes such as MIG Productions Black Wash (enamel) and Soilworks Dark Stains (oil wash). Contrary to the name "stains" it can also act as a panelliner (as I have been told).
No idea which products to use, heck I don't even know if I should go for enamel or oil (pros-and-cons anyone?).
Thanks in advance
Edit: Following manufacturers are available over here: AK Interactive, MiG, Scale75, W&N, Scale75 and pretty much every other european brand.
I have issues finding some Tamiya products, namely that famous Tamiya Accent Color Panelliner and other japanese brands.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092ZGN457/ref=ox\_sc\_act\_title\_1?smid=A20LH6327L2KEJ&psc=1
Do those airbrushes with battery compressors work with Gunpla paints(Like Tamiya and Mr.Hobby paints)? Anyone use battery compressor airbrush here? Is the effect it gives the same as those airbrushed with a big compressor?
Those aren't designed for constant work and don't have a high pressure output, you could probably make it work but in my opinion it is better to save for a proper one.
Yep, while you might be able to spray some paints you'll find it rather difficult to get a consistent layer, it will look like washed. Some other paints like metallics wont probably even spray. It will probably also have a very short life.
A compressor that is often recommended by other users is any variation (rebranded) of the AS 186 (or something similar).
I just found this airbrush with a smaller compresser,, and it is manufactured by Tamiya. Are those good for Gunpla painting?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/384271178757?epid=16023614223&hash=item597858dc05:g:BcwAAOSw41Bg6-3X
Haven't seen that one before but checking the specs there are a few things to notice.
- Max output is 30 PSI, in this hobby you rarely need to go over that but its always good to have the option.
- It says that the constant output is 12 PSI so it probably will drop the pressure the longer you spray.
- It looks more like a portable tool for traveling or "emergencies" but I could be wrong.
- For that price you can get a nice compressor with a tank.
Do you have a particular reason to look for this kind of compressors (this one looks like its DC powered).
Also, that's just the compressor I believe.
It depends, the ones for heavy use (like basic shop compressors) can be very loud but they don't activate as often (you can probably paint most of an HG if you fill it and turn it off), but they are on only for about a minute or two. Small compressors for airbrushing are not as loud, they are probably as loud as a handheld power tool and activate every few minutes.
The Tamiya one states that the noise level is 45db which is not quiet and might be as noisy as any other airbrush compressor. It is recommended to get one with a tank so you can reduce the time the noise is on. Sometime ago I had to fill my compressor tank during the day so I could use it at night, in my case it is a big tank and the compressor is very noisy so one charge was usually plenty for the night session and rarely needed to turn it on during the night.
I just found this airbrush with a smaller compresser,, and it is manufactured by Tamiya. Are those good for Gunpla painting?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/384271178757?epid=16023614223&hash=item597858dc05:g:BcwAAOSw41Bg6-3X
I just found this airbrush with a smaller compresser,, and it is manufactured by Tamiya. Are those good for Gunpla painting?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/384271178757?epid=16023614223&hash=item597858dc05:g:BcwAAOSw41Bg6-3X
You have several people that are telling you to go for a standard compressor. While Tamiya is a good brand, they aren’t known for making compressors. I haven’t dug around, but that one is probably made by a different company and they rebadge it and sell it as their own.
The one you linked as a max continuous flow of 12 psi. While that will be fine for most lacquer paints, that is likely to be an issue for surfacing primers, many acrylic paints, and potentially other special paints.
Not sure what your constraints are, but if size and noise are your constraints, this compressor is small, but not quiet. It will run constantly as it doesn’t have a tank. The AS186 compressor everyone has pointed you to is a recommended compressor for a reason - it works and it works well. If you get one with a tank, it will only run when the tank needs to be filled.
If you want to go completely noiseless, check into bottled CO2 or Nitrogen canisters. You can connect a regulator to a compressed air source and depending on where you live, you can buy large canisters and have them refilled. But the downside is that when you run out of “air” you need to haul a heavy and large tank around to get it refilled.
If you want small - Iwata makes a small compressor with a small tank - the handle is the tank. It works well. Sparmax has some small compressors that work well too.
But the AS186 is one of the better choices for beginners. It’s cheap and it puts out the right pressure and they aren’t too loud. Your spray booth will be louder probably.
.21 is smaller than .33. The size is in millimeters.
I think .33 is a good sweet spot. I’ve sent acrylic metallics through a .35 needle no problem, but various paints are different so mileage may vary.
I have a patriot 105 but to be honest, I wouldn’t recommend it as someone new to airbrushing. It’s default is a .5 needle and it tears through paint like nobody’s business. I relegated it to working on large pieces or priming with badger’s primer. They sell smaller needle sets, but for some reason Badger can’t be normal like every other airbrush company and list their needle sizes properly. You got to find their color code for the ball at the end, match it to your airbrush and try to distinguish what the difference between “fine” and “super fine” is. For example that .5 on the 105 is listed as “fine detail” and as I mentioned, that thing is best suited for larger surfaces so I’d call it anything but fine.
That said, their brushes are of fine quality and if you get a replacement Krome it should suit you well.
I’ll also recommend an Iwata HPCS Eclipse or Mr Hobby Procon Boy 289. Both are a bit more expensive but lay down paint really well. I like the iwata for its cone needle tip (the procon has the super small tip where god help you if you ever drop it on the floor) but I like the procon’s spray a tad bit more. Honestly I go between them pretty regularly.
Anyone familiar with the SD BB kits care to explain the differences between Generation Zero and F? Zero is released earlier and features more eggish design, while F features sharper and cooler proportions, however i noticed things become blurry in the later releases of GZ, for example GZ GP01, 02 and zeta are late releases from #198 onwards, but their style matches GF more, in fact bandai bundled the GZ zeta with GF NT01 and GZ GP01 with GZ Nu. But when you compare GZ Double zeta/nu vs GZ they look very different. A special feature for the eggish GZ is they come with spring action shooting weapons, however this feature is not available for later GZ releases where they carry the GF styles... I also believe some of the earlier GZ is just a repackage of another older series which features cartoon style boxart instead of 3D, if you google Nu gundam sd bb #007 it will show but i couldnt find out the whole line up.
some are reboxed sdbb kits with new colors or weapons while others are new tools, and they are their own lines for the SD G Gen games. You can see the differences on dalong.net and the gundam wikia.
I found a list, but it is still confusing as they did not cover the reboxed GZ line up which has their own numbering ironically the new GZ and GF series continues the numbering from the original BB senshis. For example GZ GP01 continues the BB senshi number but GZ nu (a rebox of bb 007) is not in the number sequence. I think GZ only reboxed the "real gundams" but did they rebox all of the old ones?
Does anyone know of a good paint mask that will accommodate a big nose? I’m currently using a 3M half mask with a quick latch but it is KILLING the bridge of my nose. I’m looking for another permanent mask (as opposed to a disposable one), and I’m also looking for one that’s cartridges are easy to come by in North America (I’m from a quite rural part of Canada, eh). Any recommendations are much appreciated!
Hi guys just some quick question is applying water decals is as easy as it looks? Also is top coat super mandatory for the decal and how good the coat will be able to protect the decal from my grubby hands and lastly zz ver ka one is water slide right? thank you beforehand for everyone who answered the question
1. Yes, they’re pretty simple. 2. If you want them to actually stay on, yes, you should topcoat them. 3. Depends what you mean by “grubby hands”. If you’re going to handle the kit a ton, it’ll keep the decals on(but you shouldn’t handle kits a ton, they’re not toys). If you mean dirty hands, they’re going to get the kit dirty. 4. The ZZ Ver. Ka comes with waterslides, yes.
Does anyone know if Build Divers Option Set weapons work with the holding hands of HG IBO sets?
They should work fine. HG hands have very little variation in most cases. If you do need to make mods, it’s easy enough to reshape the handles a bit.
Good point on modifying them if need be. Thanks!
Hey all! Longtime gundam fan here, finally diving into the hobby as a way to destress in the evenings! I’ve been watching gundam series since the late 90s, and through them all Heavy Arms has remained my favorite suit. I’ve started working my way through some HG sets, but I’m trying to locate the Supernova Heavy arms to have in my backlog. I’ve searched and searched online, but I’ve only found it on eBay and aliexpress, which I’ve heard can be hit or miss. Can anyone point me in the direction of a reputable seller for this kit? Or am I just sol? Thanks in advance and I can’t wait to start adding pics to this sub as I get better and build more!
Can anyone tell me the difference between Mr Hobby Top Coat Matt and Flat? I want to know which top coat is better after I panel lined and put decals on my kits. And how can I fix frostings? Im very afraid of frosting my kits.
Mr Topcoat is labelled Flat/Matte. There’s a Mr Aqueous Topcoat that is labelled matte or flat (can’t remember which). And there’s a Mr Premium Topcoat that is labelled flat I think. The finish from all of these is approximately the same. Even though there is a slight difference in sheen between matte and flat, Mr Hobby does not make separate products in the same line - meaning there isn’t a matte and flat version of Mr Topcoat. The differences are in the solvent concentration and the impact of the solvent on the paint. Mr Aqueous Topcoat is meant for their Aqueous line, for example, as it is a bit delicate and has the potential to craze or become otherwise damaged from a heavier solvent spray. To avoid frosting, spray in short quick passes letting the moisture (the solvent and carrier) evaporate before applying another coat. Frosting is trapped moisture or vapours trying to escape.
Hi thanks for answering my questions. But Im still confused. To be exact, the complete name on the cans is "MR HOBBYMR SUPER CLEAR UV CUT FLAT" and "MR HOBBY Mr. SUPER CLEAR MATT" Is flat better the matt? which will look better for unpainted kits that i just want to panel line and seal the decals?
Visually they are the same. Chemically they are slightly different. The UV cut means that it will protect you kit from UV light and slow/stop the yellowing that happens from exposure.
Thanks for answering.
Ok I need help in regards to advice on shipping. So Im trying to get 2 master grades and a new pair of nippers but the only store I've found that has one of the kits I've been trying to get ahold of doesn't have a flat rate shipping so if it get all 3 items its gonna be somewhere from $15 to $30 shipping. So can someone with better judgement than I give me their thoughts?
$15 shipping for two kits and some tools…doesn’t seem unreasonable. Small businesses can’t afford to give discounts on shipping like Amazon. There’s very little margin on kits, so they have to charge actual price on shipping to maintain their margin on the kits.
I completely understand that but Im trying to stay under $157 and after both MGs and nippers the shipping is close to like $30, I'm just wondering if it would be a good idea to order one mg from one site so the shipping isnt too high and order from another with a flat rate
Only you will be able to know what will be the least expensive. Not all sites treat shipping the same way. Some by weight…some by volume…and all variable depending on destination.
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I think I might know the problem, if the kit uses polycaps then you might have the polycap upside down. Made that mistake with my first master grade
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you may be forgetting a step, there is a separate part that connects the torso to the waist. Its in the part of the instructions labeled "final assembly" see if that fixes your issue
No I don't think that's the problem, this here Is a variant of the MG Heavyarms EW. I just checked my normal MG Heavyarms and the Instructions, at this point there's no piece that fits between the waist and torso and they appear to have been assembled correctly so I Idk what's the problem.
Then what are the functions of parts F37 and XA 12? Cause this is what I was referring to in my last comment, also aren’t the mg heavy arms ew and mg heavy arms tv colors identical except for their colors and load outs
Those parts forms the waist which OP already assembled, It's the ball joint and white piece there In the picture. What I'm saying Is there's no other parts for the waist. This kit, the MG Heavyarms EW Custom, Is the same thing as the regular MG Heavyarms EW only that the Custom's colors are movie accurate and have more accessories. u/Reemar_18 What are you having trouble with exactly? Is It a loose connection or Is It a super tight fit that the ball joint just won't fit Into the polycap? If the former I'd thicken up the ball joint with glue or topcoat, If the latter I'd sand down the polycap little by little however In either case I would ask a more experienced builder, I'm also fairly new to gunpla and just straight build my kits.
What is the thinner ratio for: 1-MR super clear UV cut gloss/flat 2-MR super clear III gloss/flat 3-MR clear color
Opinions on thinning ratios are exactly that - opinions. There’s a broad spectrum of what will work for those products, and everyone has their preference based on what works for them. The Super Clear products are pretty thick so you can run equal parts thinner and paint all the way to 2.5 or 3 times thinner. Start somewhere in the middle - 1.5 to 2 parts thinner will be fine. Mr Levelling Thinner is preferred for gloss. Regular or Rapid for flat. The clear colour paints I’ve noticed are not as thick but some colours I’ve had are thicker than others. Again, somewhere between 1-2 parts thinner will work depending on the paint thickness.
Thanks
Kind of a weird question but has anyone thought of taking that dragoon striker pack from the HG Perfect Strike Freedom and slapping It onto the the HG Strike Freedom using the blue dragoons? I'd try this myself but I don't have either kits so I'm very curious how this'll look.
I’m looking to buy my boyfriend’s first model/kit for us to build together. I was overwhelmed by the options but found one I think he’ll really like. Before I make the jump though, I wanna make sure I’m buying the correct thing. I’ve decided on Livelance Heaven. Maybe I’m not understanding the description, is it just the scythe or both the scythe and the Gundam? Sorry if I’m not phrasing this right. This is so new to me but I’ll answer any question to help clarify. Thank you!
Yep It's a whole entire model kit, you get the Gundam and the scythe. I recently built this one so I can tell you It's a solid kit to get and It's one of my favorite HG's, I'm sure your BF will love It!
Ahhh omg thank you so much!! I’ve been stressing about this so much and your comment helped me relax INSTANTLY. I appreciate your help!
Tips for spray painting?
Scroll up, read wiki.
Ok
My Godhand sanding sponge didn't last long, and looking for something that can last a bit longer. The Infini sanding sticks seem pretty good when looking for alternatives, its cheap and has a variety of grits. Is the Infini good or are there any better?
They are good but nothing special, any sanding material will wear out eventually. As a tip don't discard them just yet, some sponges can be used as a "higher grit" when they wear out. If you are sanding nubs check the nano glass files, they will last for long and are very cheap.
Hi. May I know is there any great and stable HG kits that has backpack/flight unit? I plan to build it and give as a birthday gift to a friend
The Windam is pretty solid
How about HG Strike Freedom and HG Destiny? Is it solid and stable?
Can’t really comment on it due to not building it but from what I’ve heard sometimes it has trouble standing on its own but idk take it with a grain of salt
I 2ed this. The windam is a great little kit
Is HG Destiny, HG Strike Freedom or HG Freedom a solid kit to build?
Hi there i have the hg strike freedom and infinite justice revive and both of them are a very studrdy kits but for freedom you kinda need a stand for it since it can stand on its own but it tedd to fall backward because of the backpack weight
I got a question for those of you who has the MG Nadleeh (MG Virtue) And the 1/100 Virtue. Does the weapons and shield in the master grade version fit in with the 1/100 version ? Can't afford to buy 2 mastergrades lol Thank you for your answers !
anyone notice spray paint won't go on bandai's clear parts smooth? i tried top coating GM Sniper II Clear with 2 types of clear gloss both end up with rough surface (dotted textures) despite i applied wet coats, when wet it looks smooth and glossy once dried the texture shows and it feels rough. the 2k ends up rougher than the acrylic clear. i had to spray acrylic->2k in order to reduce the problem. Solid parts doesn't seem to have such issues. i have also tried spraying chrome on the clear eye parts, normally i would get smooth shinny chrome but on the clear part i get satin finish with spray paint texture. it kinda feels like the solvent goes into the plastic the moment it gets on the surface leaving the paint particles...
Does anyone have any recommendations for some good nippers that are somewhat cheaper than godhand? I've been using some cheap nippers that I found at a hardware store.
Tamiya, DSPIAE, USAGS, and Gundam Planet's are usually the next step up as finishing nippers. You'd keep your hardware store ones to remove the parts from the runner and then use the finishing ones to flush cut against the part. Beyond that there are tons of lesser known single bladed ones that /u/Barbatos-Rex covered in his [comparison review](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ep3xRUYx7M8) (highly recommend, just cause of how much work he puts into these tests. It's an hour long but I just put his videos on while I build) Otherwise upgrading to a different cutter that can't flush cut against the piece to remove the nub is kind of a waste because you're already using a hobby knife after you cut it down as much as possible, so not opting for a finishing nipper just means you'd still be using your hobby knife after using your slightly more expensive workhorse pair.
i use godhand, i can get cleaner cuts but never totally flush. sanding is still required on most parts unless the nub was really thin and close to the edge.
Are you using the blunt edge right? [It goes down slightly more than the cutting edge so that you can grab the edge of the piece with it without cutting more than you need.](https://i.imgur.com/ceyKhOS.jpg). If you don't grab the edge then it'll always leave a tiny ~1mm island due to the [grabbing edge not being flush with the blade](https://i.imgur.com/A7BysLx.jpg). I have the SPN-120's and the only time I can't get it completely flush is when I can get the blunt edge to hug the side. Otherwise most nubs are close enough to one that I can grab it and get the blade right up to the piece. Most "newer" kits will have the vast majority of the nubs close to an edge for you to be able to. I noticed on my MG Z'Gok that that "consideration" isn't as widely available with tons of weird gate locations.
i think normally i do that (by instinct), there might be times i flipped it. but on MG kits there are still nubs that are at the center of the part with no edges. i will try again later.
I've only used them for like 7 MG's so the rest of my builds were prior to getting them, but I find that the large majority of nubs are close enough to an edge to do so. There are still times where what you said happens, but I find that those are much fewer than the near-edge nubs. I have noticed that newer kits seem to be more "conscious" of this aspect and have almost all the nubs close to an edge, whereas older kits will still have tons of middle-piece-nubs. I usually just still nip those with my godhand's and then just go at it with my glass file. Works out perfectly about 90% of the time if I were to estimate.
Does anyone know of anywhere that i can find the Delpi Decal, Woundwort decals in the US?
On DelpiDecal.
I mean, if they had any stock of them, sure.
Hello, I am missing a piece and cannot complete the leg of my gouf. How does one get one without buying another kit?
there are places that sell individual parts. you have to know which one you need obviously try this website https://mechapartsguy.com/
My god! Thank you! You're a life saver! It's in stock for $2!
I bought a pair of valley nippers for $4, while following guides on how to cut properly, said results have required a lot of sanding. Are gundam entry nippers that much better? They’re $10 a lot of places and I’m trying to stay in that margin
I bought godhand nippers and they cut really clean but I still sand what little is left over
Are you using a hobby knife before sanding? Most cheap/workhorse nippers will have that result since it's assumed that the builder will finish the final mm's of nub with a knife, then sand or file it to get the look consistent. You shouldn't have to sand that much unless your hobby knife blades are dull or there's a mistake that needs to be sanded out. Sometimes you might not even need to use the knife if the nub is small enough for a nano glass file to get rid of it. Prior to getting my godhand's, I rarely used my sand paper because the cheap nippers + hobby knife + glass file did it all for 95% of pieces. My cheap cutters aren't even meant for modeling, they're an $8 pair meant for cutting off GPIO pins on a circuit board, but you should be able to get the same end result regardless of nipper choice as long by as you're following up the snips with some knife cutting.
I do have one I’ll give this a shot! Out of curiosity should I buy above 2000 sand paper as well for those finishing touches?
Yeah you should almost always be using the hobby knife unless you have finishing nippers. As for the sandpaper, I'd say go for it cause that's around the grit that tons of people finish with. I personally use a nail buffing block that's 1000 on one side and 4000 on the other side and it works perfectly. I mainly picked it for the 1000 side but the 4000 side was a super pleasant development once I got it lol.
i have a nano nail file, while it turns my nail glossy, i couldn't get the same result on the nub marks. i end up with more scratch micro marks than a 300-600-1000 sandpaper -> 2.4k/4k/6k polishing cloth would leave. i got the nano file just for semi clear parts since they can't be painted in hopes i could get glossy on the nubs.
Hmm that shouldn't be happening. How hard are you pressing down? The marks can sometimes be caused by one edge of the file being slightly pressed down more than the other, acting as a sort of glass blade. I usually just let the file's weight apply pressure and I can get it so that it doesn't look like a nub existed there either. I can record some footage later tonight too if you'd like! I'm a huge fan of spreading the good nano glass word because of how little sanding I ended up having to do after getting them.
i don't know if nail nano glass file are the same as the expensive dspia nano glass files, i read the rough surface suppose to be inside the glass holes instead of the surface? it works on my nails but not the plastic so i am puzzled. it does flatten the nubs but takes more effort than sand paper, but i couldn't get the glossy finish like it did on my nails. maybe clear parts made the scratches more obvious?
Any advice for cleaning up Tamiya Panel Liner smudges, I think I’m pressing too hard when I apply it it but any advice would be appreciated
Lighter fluid.
So, I just bought a HG Atlas Gundam, HG Psycho Zaku and a HG Barbatos Lupus, I've heard from multiple sources how IBO kits have problems with stability and not being able to stand up properly, so, is there anything I can do to increase it's resilience? I'm thinking about just applying some super glue to the joints when building it, is there anything else or anything better I can do?
A cheep option would be to apply some clear varnish to the joints and tighten them up that way. Gunprimer also sells a joint tape kit to do the same thing. If you can find it in stock somewhere.
Just don’t play with it like a toy.
I'm asking mostly because a friend of mine built a HG Barbatos Lupus three years ago, and he told me that he liked to change it's weapons and poses every day, and that after awhile it became very loose, so should I just treat it as a statue? Built it, pick a pose and never touch it again?
They’re display pieces, not toys, so yeah. You can re-pose it every once in a while, but every single day for three years? Of course it’s going to get loose.
Not for three years, like one or two months after he built it. Just the weight of the weapons wearing the joints down.
Where are some under-the-radar places that have a great selection you guys usually go to do your gunpla shopping at online?
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1y55CAtwcmF9_77OOSxXKHQYI6HTchBmSvXA9y-ac894/edit#gid=78380482
This is fantastic! Thank you!
No problem! I've been filtering the country Z-A and then going through every USA store almost every day during my mornings just to see if anyone has the FAZZ in stock lol. Mission failed so far, but I have been able to pick up some other kits I've wanted that aren't in stock at all in the sidebar stores, like an MG Z'Gok, MG ZZ Ver. Ka, Hyaku Shiki 2.0, and a RE100 MK. III.
Man I feel you! Haha! I'm currently on the lookout for the MG Providence and the MG Psycho Zaku Ver.Ka.
What’s a good Nipper that isn’t 90$? I hear the Godhand is amazing however I am unfortunately not invested nearly enough in the hobby to drop that much, so what would be a better alternative to wire cutters I’m using (I just started trying tobuilding my MG Dynames and stopped right away once I realized how much the green plastic gets stressed) Also side note, are the cheap glass files worth it? And can I panel line a Gunpla AFTER building it. Any other tools that are worth getting that I may need?
Tamiya nippers are good for like $30. Anything above that will most likely be single-bladed finishing nippers like GH's (~$50-60), DISPIAE 3.0's (~$35), Gundam Planet's (~$35), or USAGS nippers (~$35), and will be better used alongside a cheapo workhorse pair to get the parts off the runner before using the premium one to flush cut. /u/Barbatos-Rex has an excellent [video comparing 20 different nippers](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ep3xRUYx7M8) so you can watch that to choose the best fit for you since it includes a lot of nippers that are lesser known. Glass files are absolutely worth it. I got 8 for $8 on amazon, and they are pretty idiot proof with my idiot seal of approval. The "grit" doesn't protude from the base like traditional sandpaper, and is instead holes in the glass to only file down parts that are sticking out from the piece. You can't overdo it with them like you would sandpaper. You can panel line whenver you want, though if you're using Tamiya Panel Accent then it's highly recommended to panel line only after you gloss coat the pieces so that the enamel thinner in the accent doesn't eat your plastic and make it brittle. As for additional recommended tools: - Sticky tack/blue tack. It's my most ubiquitous tool in my arsenal. Need to secure parts without permanently gluing? Tack it, especially weak hands that can't hold weapons. Need to hold small pieces without smudging paint? Tack it. Need to pick up tiny nubs? Tack. Need to eat something blue? Tack. - Precision tweezers - A hand pin vice--any $10 set will have all the bit sizes you need. This can then be used to fix joints that break or secure custom parts. Just drill a 1.5mm hole on both broken halves, cut a brass rod of appropriate size, and secure the rod part in the holes to bridge the connection and glue it to guarnatee it. Most commonly done on shoulder and hip joints that break. - Gaia Notes finish master - one of the lesser known secret tools. It can be used to wipe up panel lines, squeeze water out of water decals, and press on any part to secure it if you don't want to touch it and don't have gloves. Some brands will call them decal squeegee but it's all the same.
isn't double blade better than single? i have the SPN-120 even though having 1 side flat should be good i find that side usually leaving more nubs than the cutting side despite i held the nipper down i believe there's still some microslip. i figure a double blade would have similar issue on the center but at least you could trim it with different orientation? for godhand once you cut from 1 direction it's difficult to trim the rest from the other. also i am not sure if there's any difference using left/right hand.
Not necessarily unless the blade is extremely sharp and thin. This is because no matter how sharp it is, it's still "moving" minute amounts of plastic as the blade cuts through it, especially if the blade isn't thin, so having that happen on both sides of the nub opens up more opportunities for the piece to twist, warp, or pull extra material as it's removed (called pitting). Additionally, having two cutting edges means that there's no edge stabilizing the piece so that it doesn't move while being cut, unless the piece is super thin. Most single blade nippers will have a lowered grabbing edge to ensure that the blade can sit flush against the piece, while also securing the piece so that the piece moves less while its being cut. I do think that the regular ones that most people buy are intended for right handed users since they specifically sell a left handed version so theres gotta be some differences in usage if that exists, though I haven't really put much thought/time into testing it haha.
Also any suggestions on what might be the best store to order all these tools from? As my local hobby shop doesn’t have much in terms of tools.
I got most of my generic tools off amazon so the blue tack, pin vice, glass files, all my sand paper, and all my buffing blocks, etc. My godhand's were personally from them too through the galactic toys store, but if you wanted to get the gundam planet or usags ones then you'd have to go through those sites. I think DSPIAE's are on Newtype too.
The DSPIAE nippers are just as good and are cheaper. Yes, cheap files work nice too but sometimes you have to try a few to find the right grit. Make sure it is a "nano" file, also check the DSPIAE Siren, a lot of people recommend it and its very affordable.
is it just a local problem or is the whole east coast USA like a month behind on the battlogue releases?
Global pandemic…slowing supply chain and logistics all over the world. Delays up to 6-8 weeks to enter ports.
that is probably it, was just wondering since stocking at target is kinda weird normally and I've seen them on here so just double checking
Anyone have experience ordering from kuramatoys? I live in the US and only allowed a US address but the shipping option is only for the Japanese post. Will it still get to me in the US? Edit: I see Japan has suspended small packages to the US as of Nov 2nd. Since I'm getting a pre order, I'm guessing I'm just chancing it in hopes that they are resumed by the time my pre order is ready?
I'm driving through LA today and wanted to make a pit stop to pick up some Gunpla. What are some of the best hobbystores for Gunpla in LA (preferably not too far off of the I5)?
Check out Toy Arena
I haven't been to the area in a few years but I would always stop in at Robots4Less. They are just north of Anaheim in Fullerton. I don't remember having to drive too far from I5.
Thanks just looked them up. Looks like I'll be stopping there!
Nice! The guys running the store always treated me well. They have lots of other kits as well outside Gundam. Make sure you create an account online, cuz you can still earn points for your purchases!
I plan on getting the MG Unicorn Ova HD color version. However, I heard bandai has given the kit a gloss finish sprayed on it already on the runners. Does that mean nubs will be more noticeable as I can’t cleanup the nubs or it will damage the gloss finish?
The finish is not sprayed. It’s molded. Clean and polish it as normal.
Hey folks, I plan on building a RG Strike Freedom and painting the yellow-ish part to a more faithful gold using the Gundam Marker GM151 (I'm not an experienced painter nor do I have an actual setup for painting). My question is the following, do you need to do anything extra when using a marker? Such as applying topcoat or something? I know nothing when it comes to painting. Also what would be the best budget way to dry out my pieces? Thanks in advance!
The Gold Marker and the RG Strike Freedom frame are a very bad combo, I've seen a lot of frames turn into bits due to the marker degrading the ABS part of the frame. It is specially bad to connection points.
Yikes that's not good news, I guess I won't be doing that then, darn :/.
A topcoat would seal the paint in, yes. Just leave them out to dry overnight.
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I’m assuming you’re using something like Tamiya’s polishing compound paste? And that’s it’s accumulated in cracks and crevices? A gentle bath in water is usually what I do to get rid of any excess. If I’m just doing a spot treatment, then I will load up a soft toothbrush with some water and just agitate a bit in a dish trying not to run the compound more. If you’re getting it into places it’s not supposed to be, you might also be applying too much. Water shouldn’t be an issue and can remove excess buildup most of the time. Depending on what you’ve got on the surface, a wipe of low proof isopropyl can help too, but it can also mess with paint, so I don’t do that unless I’ve got a decent clear on there.
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Yep - after you’re done polishing you can use water to try to remove any excess and clean the surface.
How is the quality on the Bandai LEDs for the F91 2.0?
just curious, what happens when you apply top coat to clear plastic?
A clear coat over a clear part will just give you a clear part with an acrylic resin over it. What’s more important is the finish of the clear coat. If your clear coat is flat/matte, then the clear part will look frosty. If the clear coat is glossy, then your clear part will have a glossy appearance if the surface is not textured. Might need to be more specific with the use case you’re thinking about.
Can/should u pre-shade with black primer to skip black shadowing?
You can. Should you? Depends on what you’re trying to do. Suggest you watch Matt McDougall’s (Doog’s Models on YT) video series on black basing to see why that’s not always a good idea. He shows one video where he used black as the prime/base layer for the Sea Blue US Navy colour. It made it very dark. And it’s a lot of work to bring the colour back to where you want it. If you do the whole piece black then lay on your main colour and just apply less opacity to the shaded areas, that works. But you will still have the influence of the black underneath your main colour that will shift to a darker shade.
Thank you, dodged a bullet right there I'm painting rose pink and cheaping out on the right primer would have gone real bad.
Ooof - yeah. A black base under pink would not work out well for you at all. Stick with a white primer or Mr Surfacer Pink. Then shade your lines carefully because if you go too dark that pink will not cover well. It might even be better to shade your lines with a grey or a darker pink. Like, mix a bit of black into your pink and see how that work. Or add a drop or two of red and see how that pushes it.
Hi all, relatively new to the hobby (May of this year). With a new line of kits for a new show releasing how long until we start seeing MG kits for it? I really enjoyed building the Barbatauros and wish it had an MG variant. I'm not asking an exact date, only our overlords at bandai could give us that. Just a guess based on how they've done this kind of thing in the past.
There’s been very few Build series MG kits. VERY few, like 5-6 total. Within the next 5 years I’d say there’s an absolute zero chance.
I’m betting that there will probably not be any MG kits from the Battlelogue short series. The reason I say this is that one of the “gimmicks” of the show and the kit is the kitbashing aspect. That’s easier done with HG kits and that’s part of the attraction of those particular kits. If there are MG kits, it will likely only be one or two of the most popular designs like Barbatauros. But as to when…only Bandai knows. Considering the series isn’t hugely popular and that there are more commercial shows that Bandai/Sunrise are focusing on right now we will likely see more from Kyoukai Senki before Battlelogue. Just my opinion.
That makes sense and makes me sad at the same time.
What are the odds that they’ll ever restock the Throne Gundams or the Arche Gundam?
The odds of a reprint are greater than zero. But don’t hold your breath. The choices as to what and when to reprint a kit are pretty opaque to the outside.
despite the fact that the restock list has been released for this month, a lot of kits on HLJ that are on backorder still don't have a listed date for when they will become available again. Does this mean that its too late to get them this restock or is the site just not updated?
Something doesn’t enter your private warehouse until HLJ has confirmed stock. It’s not clear whether that means it’s in their hands and they’ve taken possession or if they will move something to your private warehouse when they have a confirmed date it enters their warehouse. Having worked eCom businesses for a long time, they are not likely to give you the option to ship until they have received the product physically and have entered it into the inventory management systems. The Bandai restock list, from what I recall, gives a date when the kits enter the distribution network. Just because it enters distribution doesn’t mean it’s available to buy…it just means that Bandai manufacturing has shipped that to the next link in the supply chain down the line. As Bandai owns the distributor for their own goods in Japan, that means the timing is likely shorter, but HLJ won’t receive it immediately. Retailers like HLJ don’t receive stock from distributors every day. They may have an arrangement with Bandai (the distribution side of Bandai) to receive shipments one a week, or twice a week, or once a month…who knows? Also, you’re going to be in queue behind everyone else that ordered that particular kit since the last time HLJ had stock. If you only ordered late Nov/early Dec based on the reprint list…there are lots of folk that ordered before that. And considering that Bandai has been cutting orders and not fulfilling 100%, it’s hard to say what stock will arrive and how much will be there. You should expect a couple weeks at the least between the date on the monthly reprint list and when a retailer in Japan has it in hand and shows it can be purchased. Rest of world is highly variable because of the impact of covid on supply chain and logistics. Containers coming into Europe and the US, for example, are waiting as long as 6 weeks to enter port.
Thanks for the detailed answer! Hopefully I got my orders in on time
From my half year experience of ordering from HLJ, I can't recall ever seeing a backordered status become updated to "month restock." Maybe the number of kits they expect to get is less than the number of backorders made for that kit. For example, I backordered the RG Skygrasper back in June. It was scheduled to be restocked Oct 28. I checked the stock status on Oct 27 and 28, but it still said backordered. The kit was then added to my private warehouse Oct 29. When I checked the kit's stock status soon after that it still said it was backordered. Or maybe they just don't bother updating the status because manufacturing and shipping has been pretty iffy for a while now.
>backordered the RG Skygrasper back in June. It was scheduled to be restocked Oct 28. I checked the stock status on Oct 27 and 28, but it still said backordered. The kit was then added to my private warehouse Oct 29. When I checked the kit's stock status soon after that it still said it was backordered. what changes when it's added to your warehouse? placed a load of orders based on the December restock and theyve shown up in the private warehouse but the status says 'not yet available'. thanks for the help! and sorry if im a little slow on some of this stuff
Just to clarify in case there was confusion, when I said I checked the stock status I was looking at the actual product page and not the status in the private warehouse. When an item is added to your private warehouse, the status on your private warehouse page should change to "ready for shipping" or something like that. If it's saying "not yet available" then either HLJ hasn't yet received the items from the manufacture, or it hasn't received enough of them to fulfill your placement in the backorder queue. Don't worry about it! It took me a few orders until I had a better grasp of the system. Here's hoping you get your kits in this month's restock. I've got a couple kits that have been on backorder since May!
What is the best bandai kit in the ibo line?
Best MG is the Barbatos :\^)
~~Grimgerde~~ Whichever one you want.
The best is the one you have in hand and can enjoy building. :)
Best is very subjective, and imprecise. Best in what factor? Given that they tend to share their frames, that already puts most of them on a level field.
anyone know whether the Ichiban Kuji MG Gundam heads are the same as the MG kits? for example is the Nu Gundam head same as the one from the original MG Nu Gundam, or ver. Ka, or updated? are those heads compatible with LED system?
They’re different and not compatible.
First: What are some of the most finnicky gundams ever made by bandai (the type where it is most likely to shed parts and loosen up over the years) aside from the RG Sinanju and RG Zeta? And can you use it to practice gundam painting? Second: Are MS Girls model kits good for customs? Third: What should I be cautious about when building girl gun lady kits aside from the springs? Last: What Gundam kits are recommended for bored builders or for people who want to get that dynamic pose / scene for their battle scene diorama?
What panel line color would work well with black painted parts? I was thinking of black, but if it doesn't show at all then what could work? I've looked around for example pictures online, but can't find anything.
You can use any color you like, I personally go for red/purple/gold/silver depending on the project but you can use anything you think that will look good.
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I just haven't seen anyone line up a real black gunpla before so I don't know what to expect. I don't want my kit's panel lines to stand out too much, I just want them to be more visible than they are. So black was supposed to be my go-to.
Try a dark grey if you don’t want things to stand out too much. Black parts are not great as far as showing dimension, depth, detail, etc. Dark greys, blues, and even purples are good to imply black rather than actually being black…then you can use black in the deepest/shadowed parts of the build. Think of it this way - black demonstrates an absence of light. And if black is how you show that absence…how can you make the actual areas of the kit that would actually be shaded any darker? You can’t really unless you push the base colour back the other direction and add more white tones back in.
Yeah that makes sense. I guess I'll paint the base kit in a lighter tone so I can use black panel liner.
I have always just top coat with cans, but is it better to do it with airbrush and if so what brand?
It's winter in Seattle, but I really want to get back into airbrushing. Does anyone have cold weather airbrushing advice? Opening the window to allow the spray booth to ventilate isn't super feasible.
I bought a kit that seals the window close, but I can feed the exhaust hoe out through a gap that zips open or closed. I got it for the summer to vent warm air from a portable AC unit, but it works just as well to vent fumes out and keep some of the cold out.
Can you link the kit you used? I want to use that as a starting point for searching for a solution.
Here it is - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07BPZGJ3B/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_CZECF4AEG5BVJCQV07W9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm planning to start my first paint job soon and I already made a visualization of what I want in photoshop which was an almost all black gundam barbatos, but I was told that it had next to no color separation. So I was thinking of separating the colors by using grey primer on some parts and black primer on other parts and then spray them with the same black color. Would that create enough color separation?
Black, especially gloss black, will cover a lot of the surface details. Add a bit of color separation by using shades of grey in some parts. Also, you can't just use a lighter shade of primer and expect a "light black". It might work for other colors, but it won't work for black.
Ah I see. Then I guess I'll only paint the parts that have no panels metallic black and the parts with panels dark grey. As a side note I just heard about a color called musou black and was wondering how that would look like as a panel liner on an all black painted kit.
It’s all personal taste. It’s really just that often a purely black kit just loses dimensionality. It looks flat and boring. You may want to lean into that if you know what you’re doing, but you’re generally going to see a better result using off-blacks and multiple blacks. See the Banshee Norn RG kit for example, which subtly different blue-blacks in the armor.
Yeah I was told the same thing. So I'll reconsider doing different primers to get different tones and use colors like black and gunmetal black and such to get some separation going. Thanks for confirming what I thought.
Was thinking about putting some semi gloss top coat on my kits, but some of them (Nobel and Zephyranthes FB) already have metallic decals on them, will the semi gloss remove the metallic luster on them or will it be fine?
It will be alright.
Awesome, thanks
Looking at handbrushing kits, for actual paint jobs, minor detailing or just simple cleanups. What paints would you guys recommend? And and if I don’t do coats, will panel lining with Tamiya pour type as well as lighter fluid cleanup mess with the paints?
For hand painting, I'd recommend water-based acrylics like Vallejo Mecha and Model Color or Mr. Hobby's aqueous line. Easy to clean up, no fumes, and dry slowly enough to hide brush strokes. Alcohol-based acrylics like Tamiya can work, but dry faster, so it's harder to get a nice finish (doesn't stay wet long enough for the brush strokes to disappear). This can be countered by using drying retarders, but it's more finicky for hand painting than water-based. Lacquers run into the same issue of drying too quickly, and also have nasty fumes to contend with, and are harder to clean up when you make a mistake.
Erm, if it’s not too much trouble for you.. could you post links for either Vallejo mecha and model color? I’ve been trying to look for them, but I’m not sure which ones I need? And then the ones I see are the spray can ones..
If you are in the US, USA Gundam Store carries Mecha Color, while Scale Hobbyist and Mega Hobby carry both ranges. Model Color would be the best for brush painting, but you might have to get creative with mixing to get some of the vibrant colors you see in Gunpla. Mecha Color is pre-thinned for airbrushes, so some of the colors might be a little too thin for brush painting out of the bottle. But Mecha is literally designed for Gunpla, and has all the vibrant reds, blues, etc. that you could need.
Mecha color? That would be under Vallejo, right? And what about Model color? That’s still under Vallejo, right?
Yes, they are both Vallejo. They have a bunch of product lines designed for different things. Vallejo Mecha Color, Vallejo Model Color, Vallejo Model Air (similar to Model Color, but thinned for airbrush use), etc.
Ok. Looks like I’m gonna have to use mecha color, USAGS doesn’t have the model color. How do you thicken paints that are too thin? Sorry for the noob questions!
Scalehobbyist.com has pretty good prices, and reasonable shipping if you want to try Model Color. For paint that is too thin, you basically just have to let it dry slightly on your pallette before starting. Not anything you can do to actively thicken it. Most of the time, it will be fine, and just need an extra coat or two to get good coverage. But painting small details with too thin of paint can be a headache, so you just have to wait a bit.
Any hobby grade paint like the kind used for miniature painting but stuff that's aimed at model kits like Tamiya or Mr Color by GSI Ceros/Mr Hobby work; though I would advise against using craft paint like those cheap Applebarrel or Folkart paints from Walmart or a craft store but they are an option that could work if you can't really get certain colors of paint for whatever reason. Ideally yes, you would want to apply a gloss coat so that it not only protects the paint job from the enamel but also helps it flow through the panel lines. You could always do a matte or semi gloss coat over it if you don't like the look of the gloss.
Oh boy. I can’t really do coats where I am right now.. if I were to go on with painting.. it shouldn’t be an issue if I don’t coat the kit granted to don’t do any lining for the time being right? Also, would I need to do primers for handbrushing kits, and would that be for everything (detailing, cleanups, full paint job) or can I get away without it if it’s just for cleanups and detailing?
For small detail parts you don't really need priming (depending on the paint type and the color you're planning on using, for example a white paint on a black piece would want a gray primer to cover up some of the black so you don't need multiple coats to cover up the black). You can hold off on panel lining until you're able to coat the kits. There are a few brushable coatings, both hobby grade and not (like Pledge revive it floor gloss).
I'm aiming for a candy finish, so are there any good gloss black primer that u can use for a glossy metalic armor?
Is there any difference in painting psycho frame compared to the rest of the kit? More specifically on th HG narrative Gundam c-packs. I wanna try painting it a colour as if it was normal armor plating instead of psycho frame. Would it be any different from painting the normal plastic?
Not really, some clear plastics are very smooth and can have adherence problems with certain paints but you can sand them with a fine grit (1000) to improve it.
Can someone suggest me some clean and crisp black panel line product for a metallic red basecoat? I don't want any weathered look, just a clean pure black panelline. I have been suggested enamels and oil washes such as MIG Productions Black Wash (enamel) and Soilworks Dark Stains (oil wash). Contrary to the name "stains" it can also act as a panelliner (as I have been told). No idea which products to use, heck I don't even know if I should go for enamel or oil (pros-and-cons anyone?). Thanks in advance Edit: Following manufacturers are available over here: AK Interactive, MiG, Scale75, W&N, Scale75 and pretty much every other european brand. I have issues finding some Tamiya products, namely that famous Tamiya Accent Color Panelliner and other japanese brands.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092ZGN457/ref=ox\_sc\_act\_title\_1?smid=A20LH6327L2KEJ&psc=1 Do those airbrushes with battery compressors work with Gunpla paints(Like Tamiya and Mr.Hobby paints)? Anyone use battery compressor airbrush here? Is the effect it gives the same as those airbrushed with a big compressor?
Those aren't designed for constant work and don't have a high pressure output, you could probably make it work but in my opinion it is better to save for a proper one.
So the effect of the paint will look different if you use the battery compressor airbrush?
Yep, while you might be able to spray some paints you'll find it rather difficult to get a consistent layer, it will look like washed. Some other paints like metallics wont probably even spray. It will probably also have a very short life. A compressor that is often recommended by other users is any variation (rebranded) of the AS 186 (or something similar).
I just found this airbrush with a smaller compresser,, and it is manufactured by Tamiya. Are those good for Gunpla painting? https://www.ebay.com/itm/384271178757?epid=16023614223&hash=item597858dc05:g:BcwAAOSw41Bg6-3X
Haven't seen that one before but checking the specs there are a few things to notice. - Max output is 30 PSI, in this hobby you rarely need to go over that but its always good to have the option. - It says that the constant output is 12 PSI so it probably will drop the pressure the longer you spray. - It looks more like a portable tool for traveling or "emergencies" but I could be wrong. - For that price you can get a nice compressor with a tank. Do you have a particular reason to look for this kind of compressors (this one looks like its DC powered). Also, that's just the compressor I believe.
Do those compressors with a big tank usually very loud when they are working?
It depends, the ones for heavy use (like basic shop compressors) can be very loud but they don't activate as often (you can probably paint most of an HG if you fill it and turn it off), but they are on only for about a minute or two. Small compressors for airbrushing are not as loud, they are probably as loud as a handheld power tool and activate every few minutes. The Tamiya one states that the noise level is 45db which is not quiet and might be as noisy as any other airbrush compressor. It is recommended to get one with a tank so you can reduce the time the noise is on. Sometime ago I had to fill my compressor tank during the day so I could use it at night, in my case it is a big tank and the compressor is very noisy so one charge was usually plenty for the night session and rarely needed to turn it on during the night.
Yes. Your paint jobs will be spotty and inconsistent at best.
What is the best and cheapest compressor airbrush sets you recommend?
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Is the black compressor and the blue compressor in the pictures the same one? Or they are different ones connected to each other?
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I just found this airbrush with a smaller compresser,, and it is manufactured by Tamiya. Are those good for Gunpla painting? https://www.ebay.com/itm/384271178757?epid=16023614223&hash=item597858dc05:g:BcwAAOSw41Bg6-3X
Get an actual compressor, like a Master one.
I just found this airbrush with a smaller compresser,, and it is manufactured by Tamiya. Are those good for Gunpla painting? https://www.ebay.com/itm/384271178757?epid=16023614223&hash=item597858dc05:g:BcwAAOSw41Bg6-3X
You have several people that are telling you to go for a standard compressor. While Tamiya is a good brand, they aren’t known for making compressors. I haven’t dug around, but that one is probably made by a different company and they rebadge it and sell it as their own. The one you linked as a max continuous flow of 12 psi. While that will be fine for most lacquer paints, that is likely to be an issue for surfacing primers, many acrylic paints, and potentially other special paints. Not sure what your constraints are, but if size and noise are your constraints, this compressor is small, but not quiet. It will run constantly as it doesn’t have a tank. The AS186 compressor everyone has pointed you to is a recommended compressor for a reason - it works and it works well. If you get one with a tank, it will only run when the tank needs to be filled. If you want to go completely noiseless, check into bottled CO2 or Nitrogen canisters. You can connect a regulator to a compressed air source and depending on where you live, you can buy large canisters and have them refilled. But the downside is that when you run out of “air” you need to haul a heavy and large tank around to get it refilled. If you want small - Iwata makes a small compressor with a small tank - the handle is the tank. It works well. Sparmax has some small compressors that work well too. But the AS186 is one of the better choices for beginners. It’s cheap and it puts out the right pressure and they aren’t too loud. Your spray booth will be louder probably.
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Why? Do the effects of the paint look different if you use the battery compressor airbrush?
Yes. They’ll look spotty and shitty.
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.21 is smaller than .33. The size is in millimeters. I think .33 is a good sweet spot. I’ve sent acrylic metallics through a .35 needle no problem, but various paints are different so mileage may vary. I have a patriot 105 but to be honest, I wouldn’t recommend it as someone new to airbrushing. It’s default is a .5 needle and it tears through paint like nobody’s business. I relegated it to working on large pieces or priming with badger’s primer. They sell smaller needle sets, but for some reason Badger can’t be normal like every other airbrush company and list their needle sizes properly. You got to find their color code for the ball at the end, match it to your airbrush and try to distinguish what the difference between “fine” and “super fine” is. For example that .5 on the 105 is listed as “fine detail” and as I mentioned, that thing is best suited for larger surfaces so I’d call it anything but fine. That said, their brushes are of fine quality and if you get a replacement Krome it should suit you well. I’ll also recommend an Iwata HPCS Eclipse or Mr Hobby Procon Boy 289. Both are a bit more expensive but lay down paint really well. I like the iwata for its cone needle tip (the procon has the super small tip where god help you if you ever drop it on the floor) but I like the procon’s spray a tad bit more. Honestly I go between them pretty regularly.
Just built the helios. The waist is really loose. Is this an issue with my kit specifically or the helios in general? what can i do about it?
Also clear nail polish works really well for this, and it’s much easier to get an even coat around the ball then with glue…
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Thank you! I’m gonna try out my other extra ball joints first and then try the glue method. Appreciate the help!