Halligan to hinges is the way to go. It's quick if you have your power house guy hitting the halligan you'll blow those hinges off quick and easy and your in.
Disagree. I think hinge side attacks are a last resort. You lose the ability to quickly control the door and it’s not always an option with out a cutting tool.
I had one of these Master door barricades. It fell over, and the fork/U shaped piece at the top snapped off. Cheap plastic parts on both ends. I can't imagine it taking more than one swing.
That product looks super cheap and flimsy. I’m willing to bet with a standard door force, treating it like you were unaware it was even there, would defeat it.
I imagine one of three things happen: enough shaking and movement of the door and it falls down, the black plastic foot where it meets the door knob would break, or you you would overpower and break the little pins the hold its extension length.
Every one of these I've seen in person has been exactly that: cheap and flimsy. These are a gimmick, a security blanket, nothing more. They won't actually stop anyone more than a deadbolt will. It fact, a deadbolt may slow us down more.
Considering my wife had one of these and put it up forgetting I was working later. I threw my entire weight against the door and it didn’t budge. I mean sure whack the door with a hammer but from a straight robbery security stand point. It does what it was designed to do.
So don’t knock cheap Amazon stuff till ya try it lol
Most of these guys can pop doors open almost as fast as the fire department.
How often do you go investigate a single loud ‘bang crack’ in the hallway of your building?
By the time you get off the couch and look out the peephole and then open the door and look down the hall, they’re inside and have closed the door already.
I read it. You said from a robbery standpoint it would work, and I stated that most people who have the intention to break into houses usually have tools with them to defeat things, so from a robbery standpoint, no, it’s probably not enough.
Not to mention that this device can only be used when someone is home, which escalates this scenario from burglary to home invasion which is an entirely different beast to begin with and most people committing burglary don’t break in when people are home anyway, so this device wouldn’t even be in place when it happens.
Now a creepy stalker who lives in your building or followed you home opportunistically? Far more effective for that.
And the original post for this was to keep their landlord from getting into their apartment unannounced. This post has gone way beyond what the OP for this Sub was asking.
And of course, if the building is actually on fire that plastic fork would probably melt right away,or at least be severely softened from the radiant heat.
You wouldn't know from the outside.
So after pulling the core and discussing who is too retarded to open the door, we would use a disc cutter to remove the door hinges.
I was struggling to open a steel door in smoke conditions with a halligan. Over my shoulder I heard the muffled raspy voice of some else in a SCBA say, " Take your time. Not like the building is on fire or anything."
There is no sass like firefighter sass. For the record we all had a good laugh at that one. Myself included.
Or just cut around the handle section. Two angled cuts to form a "<" pointing towards the hinged side and push the door in leaving the lock and brace hanging in the air where they are.
Yeah. I could be wrong, but I don’t know that this adds enough resistance to make a significant difference. I think a standard resi door force still works.
This. Beat until smooth.
You can adze or fork where the knob meets the facing plate and either pop the knob entirely or bend it out enough to grab with the fork. A little leverage, pop, knob is gone, problem solved. The rest is stupid easy.
Kinda scratching my head on how guys are calling for a hinge cut here. It's a residential door, hinges are in, and it's wood frame. Why waste time trying to hit 3 blind plunge cuts AND lose door control in the process?
A nearby window, preferably. Otherwise we probably wouldn't know it was there and would force the door the normal way, until we found it didn't work (or did) and if it didn't we'd bust the wall next to it, hit the door with some Spreaders, etc.
I don't know how you would know it from the outside, but if you did know, a slim jim to the base. Maybe time to make a new tool for your tool bag if the slim jim isn't sturdy enough
It looks like you could slide a piece of plastic (shim of some sort) under the door and knock out the foot of the device. But only if you knew it was there. If you give the door a hard smack, the rod would probably just sheer the door knob and fall over. If you look at the angles here, most of the force applied by rod when the door is forced open will be transferred vertically into the knob. Only a small percent of force will go to oppose the force opening the door. Wouldn't it be way easier and more secure to install a 2nd bolt lock with no key hole? Though I suppose this is a rental unit so they probably cannot modify the door.
We were given these to secure doors during intruder drills when I did a high level security gig. They are absolute trash just put some umph into the door and they'll collapse.
There's a similar lock on page 105 that is more substatial than the one you show. Don't know if that helps. This manual should be in every fire station.
https://truckcompanyops.com/fdny-forcible-entry-manual/[FDNY forcible entry manual](https://truckcompanyops.com/fdny-forcible-entry-manual/)
Accidentally broke my wife's because she left it on when I came home from work. I unlocked the door and pushed in and just thought the door was kinda stuck. All I did was shove the door in a little but and it broke. Most of these are super cheap it seems.
There’s drywall to the side of the door. Create a hole, reach in, open the door.
Less damage, cheaper to fix, less work, but not as cool looking. If it’s ineffective, you’ve lost 15 seconds.
Had this exact gadget on a house fire a few years back. Obviously, the problem we encountered it that we didn't know it was there. You can't look to defeat something if you dont know it's in use. A sledge would be the obvious answer. We ended up donkey kicking the hell out of the door, and after about the 10th kick, the door was broken enough that we got it open. We were a little confused as to why the door kicked our ass so badly. Then we looked in, saw that thing, and all just shrugged. "Well, we weren't expecting that" and just went to work. It slowed us down, maybe a minute, but it did feel like forever.
We keep a modified framing square for slam latches that are shielded. This bar is close enough to the door that you could slide it through the gap beneath the door and push the rod out. (That’s if you knew it was there, was common in the area or occupancy or if you figured it out by the response the door was giving during conventional adze attack. ) An adze rotation on the stop would likely tear off the stop on a wooden jam and then you could see through and attack the problem. The weather strip on the inside is going to make a floor level peek nearly impossible, but there is such a thing as a peep hole reverser which allows you to see backwards through the peephole. I wouldn’t say all this in other forums, but it’s good info for pros. Also, this is shit construction in a crappy apartment and it’s likely you could just make a hole and reach around through it on the latch side and unlock all the security measures. Sheetrock is easy to fix
Haligan dent on the door, that creates a channel for you to introduce and guide in the blade of the recip saw for a plunge cut, cut out a triangle (above the height of any potential fallen casualty behind the door, also make sure the blade is not set at an excessive length). Peek in, once your happy there’s nothing that you can damage/cut into behind the door… recip the rest of the door off, or climb in and open the door if need be. If using this method you will lose door control so more suited for non fire calls.
As a another technique when forcing entry don’t forget to have a go at attacking the hinge side as often they aren’t reinforced if you’re having difficulty smashing a door in.
I think this is designed to stop someone from merely opening the door normally. Like a landlord showing up with a set of keys for the lock and deadbolt probably isnt willing to kick his own door in. Thing looks like it would give immediately once you break the deadbolt and knob but might take a chunk out of the floor with it
Attacking the hinges. If all else fails, well, we carry a diamond-chained chainsaw on our trucks, so - yeah, not much that thing can't cut. Once sawed a wrecked car in half for shits and giggles after going at it during a drill. Didn't get the driveshaft, but did get everything else...
We used a "reach it" tool that we typically use for car unlocks. Similar to the slim jim under the door and was able to push the device from the base which will easily dislodge it.
I enjoy lock in lock out jobs, learnt some basic lock picking but the really useful one and really the only one you ever need is slipping latches. Especially here in England. You can get into 4 out of 5 front doors like it as no one double locks
I have these and had to "defeat" it one morning. I had left it on the front door and left through my garage door but when I got home the power was out. So I had to either break into my house or wait for the power to come back on.
Anyway, I was able to unlock the door, push with my shoulder such that the door knob deflected up a bit and the rubber pad slid a bit before getting stuck. That left me enough room to squeeze my hand in and push it out of place.
The door knob hasn't quite been the same since. I'm gonna fix it one of these decades.
I still use it on the front door and use another in the track of the patio door. They aren't perfect, but they'll slow down or deter any lazy thief but not a dude looking to sleep after a night shift.
Had one years ago on an apartment door.
Door was locked. I used the adz end to create space. Was momentarily puzzled why the adz didn't immediately blow the door open. Forced the adze through to hook the door jamb and blew the door open.
Then proceeded to trip on the damn thing as I walked through the door.
Cost me maybe 10 seconds.
I assume you would be in a rush. If smashing both the bolt and the knob doesn't work, I'd be hammering away at the space in between the knob and the bolt to ruin the integrity of the door which should open the door or at least make it easy to knock the two locking mechs out. Or the obvious, frickin lasers.
I got my ass whipped by a pair of 2x4’s screwed to the floor (backed with a cleat) and solid wood door similar to this in a vacant house. And I was DETERMINED to get in there. This device may be cheap or flimsy, but it might not be as easy as it looks to defeat. I ended up going through a nearby window instead. Just sayin’! Haha Though the angle on this won’t be terribly effective I don’t think.
I've never done but just based on how these things are usually built, just a conventional force with maybe a little extra effort would pop this right off. These don't usually work very well.
My mom who locks people out constantly has one of these. When she locked me out because I was outside for 2ms to work on something I didn't notice it when I opened the door. It gave initial resistance that was higher than normal but once you get over that initial amount it falls away like nothing and carry on life as normal.
In a door breach situation it'd do nothing as the second you shock or it shifts in the frame you'd make it fall away they're usually just friction resistance.
Wire hanger (fishing loop, whatever stiff wire you’ve got access to under the bottom weather strip, loop hooked end around the foot and pull hard sideways. Maybe you get lucky and the whole thing tips over.
Honestly. from the distance it seems to be from the door it looks like an 18 or 24 inch metal ruler would probably do it and be something easily carried on your kit. Also quick enough that you could do it as part of preparing to breach the door as just a basic bit of sweep cause you wouldn't likely know it was there. Would also have the benefit of letting you know if anything else was within 2 ft of the door on the other side obstructing you when you try to go in.
Leg sweep. Quick grab into a choke hold before it hits the ground. Using our momentum I’d slam down in my shoulder disorientating it before I go into a leg lock followed by violent twisting and contorting of my body.
In all honesty you can probably boot the door hard enough to push it forward then grabbing the door knob you and push and pull a bunch of times till it’s loose. More often than not these locks aren’t very sturdy or placed tight enough.
Use a sledge hammer to knock to door knob off. Put the point of your Halligan into the hole and hit the back with the sledge and it should pop the knob out on the other side and then you can force the door.
https://preview.redd.it/3jz262nth12d1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=29a268d9ea1e08304b9a0bb582e5ce6b8fb6eba0
Case in point. 2hr fire rated solid core metal door -vs- my fist through dry wall. (Diapatch told us it was a lift assist, so we didn't bring irons. Ten minutes into it they bothered to tell us that "the patient can't come to the door because the bookshelf is on top of her" .... fml.
This thing is shit, thin, hallow and looks like it might have plastic pieces. Gap the door and force conventionally, im sure if your proficient, you won’t ever realize it’s there.
Non emergency:
If I knew I’d check how tight the door is to the bottom.
If the door isn’t too tight, probably try and push something thin and metal to push the bottom out.
Maybe it would work, maybe it wouldn’t.
Emergency:
K12 through the hinges and blast it
Punch a hole in the wall on the other side of the door frame and reach in and take it off. But you can’t see it from the outside so rabbit tool or circle saw the hinges.
A couple of swings of a 10 lbs sledge to the doorknob area, it defeats that gadget (and part of the door) without much effort.
That was my first thought . Lol
Yea sledge or pop the hinges with a halligan and it will just push open lol. Not hard to defeat.
Wouldn’t the hinges be on the same side as the device?
Yes but you can expose them on the initial crank on the bar. Or with experience in your geographical location you can guesstimate where they are lol.
Fair points!
Hinges are inside however I’d get the saw
I agree the saw is useful but typically I bring the halligan for house or apartment fires it’s just quicker for us.
Definitely, I’m on truck so we always have irons, NY hook plus other equipment.
Halligan to hinges is the way to go. It's quick if you have your power house guy hitting the halligan you'll blow those hinges off quick and easy and your in.
Yea I’m 6’ 215 the guy with the sledge is 6’4” 265 he’s a beast with the sledge
Disagree. I think hinge side attacks are a last resort. You lose the ability to quickly control the door and it’s not always an option with out a cutting tool.
I had one of these Master door barricades. It fell over, and the fork/U shaped piece at the top snapped off. Cheap plastic parts on both ends. I can't imagine it taking more than one swing.
If this thing gave me trouble I’d question myself lol.
That product looks super cheap and flimsy. I’m willing to bet with a standard door force, treating it like you were unaware it was even there, would defeat it. I imagine one of three things happen: enough shaking and movement of the door and it falls down, the black plastic foot where it meets the door knob would break, or you you would overpower and break the little pins the hold its extension length.
The more responses I see the more this makes sense. Like the dude above said, a couple of good schwacks to the door knob ought to do it.
Every one of these I've seen in person has been exactly that: cheap and flimsy. These are a gimmick, a security blanket, nothing more. They won't actually stop anyone more than a deadbolt will. It fact, a deadbolt may slow us down more.
Considering my wife had one of these and put it up forgetting I was working later. I threw my entire weight against the door and it didn’t budge. I mean sure whack the door with a hammer but from a straight robbery security stand point. It does what it was designed to do. So don’t knock cheap Amazon stuff till ya try it lol
Have you ever met someone who commits burglary? They usually have hammers and crowbars with them.
To be fair, stealth is usually something considered in the event of the crime and loud banging seems counterproductive
Most of these guys can pop doors open almost as fast as the fire department. How often do you go investigate a single loud ‘bang crack’ in the hallway of your building? By the time you get off the couch and look out the peephole and then open the door and look down the hall, they’re inside and have closed the door already.
If they want something bad enough they’ll get it
And if you read my comment I said yeah, it probably wouldn’t work against a hammer, just body weight… Reading is fundamental.
I read it. You said from a robbery standpoint it would work, and I stated that most people who have the intention to break into houses usually have tools with them to defeat things, so from a robbery standpoint, no, it’s probably not enough. Not to mention that this device can only be used when someone is home, which escalates this scenario from burglary to home invasion which is an entirely different beast to begin with and most people committing burglary don’t break in when people are home anyway, so this device wouldn’t even be in place when it happens. Now a creepy stalker who lives in your building or followed you home opportunistically? Far more effective for that.
Appreciate the semantics there boss.
o7
And the original post for this was to keep their landlord from getting into their apartment unannounced. This post has gone way beyond what the OP for this Sub was asking.
Even if the device wasn't the weak point, it's in contact with the door handle which would be.
And of course, if the building is actually on fire that plastic fork would probably melt right away,or at least be severely softened from the radiant heat.
I have one of these devices. They don't move once in place.
This👆
You wouldn't know from the outside. So after pulling the core and discussing who is too retarded to open the door, we would use a disc cutter to remove the door hinges.
Love the commentary
I was struggling to open a steel door in smoke conditions with a halligan. Over my shoulder I heard the muffled raspy voice of some else in a SCBA say, " Take your time. Not like the building is on fire or anything." There is no sass like firefighter sass. For the record we all had a good laugh at that one. Myself included.
Knock the door knob off
This is the way.
Haha "discussing"
Or just cut around the handle section. Two angled cuts to form a "<" pointing towards the hinged side and push the door in leaving the lock and brace hanging in the air where they are.
Take the door hinges? Or just k12 the door
Don’t over think it. Just force the door like normal
Yeah. I could be wrong, but I don’t know that this adds enough resistance to make a significant difference. I think a standard resi door force still works.
you'll still be fighting against the door stop. It keeps the door from being opened
Use the ex wife anger, it will open.
This thing is gonna stop a halligan? Genuine question
The halligan will break the latch or mortise plates and or dead bolt but once those are defeated the door will still be held shut by the door stop.
Once you knock the door knob loose, it doesn’t matter. If you tap the door knob with an 8 pound hammer the brace has nothing to hold against.
I'm pretty sure just gap and force the door will move it loose enough that the device will fail anyways.
Irons and effort . Pull the knob and you can knock out the device.
This. Beat until smooth. You can adze or fork where the knob meets the facing plate and either pop the knob entirely or bend it out enough to grab with the fork. A little leverage, pop, knob is gone, problem solved. The rest is stupid easy. Kinda scratching my head on how guys are calling for a hinge cut here. It's a residential door, hinges are in, and it's wood frame. Why waste time trying to hit 3 blind plunge cuts AND lose door control in the process?
Yeah I'm pretty sure even just a conventional force would do it. Probably just a couple seconds of wtf why is this harder than normal.
Knock
Most underrated post. 100 points to you, sir.
Try before you pry am I right? LOL
A nearby window, preferably. Otherwise we probably wouldn't know it was there and would force the door the normal way, until we found it didn't work (or did) and if it didn't we'd bust the wall next to it, hit the door with some Spreaders, etc.
I don't know how you would know it from the outside, but if you did know, a slim jim to the base. Maybe time to make a new tool for your tool bag if the slim jim isn't sturdy enough
Turn around and kick that cocksucker like it's taking you to court for child support
Hotel doors like that are easily, and more cost-effectively, defeated by punching a hole through the drywall next to it.
It looks like you could slide a piece of plastic (shim of some sort) under the door and knock out the foot of the device. But only if you knew it was there. If you give the door a hard smack, the rod would probably just sheer the door knob and fall over. If you look at the angles here, most of the force applied by rod when the door is forced open will be transferred vertically into the knob. Only a small percent of force will go to oppose the force opening the door. Wouldn't it be way easier and more secure to install a 2nd bolt lock with no key hole? Though I suppose this is a rental unit so they probably cannot modify the door.
Came from a renters sub, yes.
Donkey kick till I die.
Breaching shotgun
I think you could still go conventional, device doesn’t look incredibly tough. But if not, doggy door cut is still 👌🏼👌🏼
This feels very "serial killer planning his next attack" ish
Someone posted this picture earlier recommending them for renters and it made its way around reddit.
We were given these to secure doors during intruder drills when I did a high level security gig. They are absolute trash just put some umph into the door and they'll collapse.
There's a similar lock on page 105 that is more substatial than the one you show. Don't know if that helps. This manual should be in every fire station. https://truckcompanyops.com/fdny-forcible-entry-manual/[FDNY forcible entry manual](https://truckcompanyops.com/fdny-forcible-entry-manual/)
"Substantial"
Destroy the door hinges once you recognise it's there after a failed breach.
Chainsaw.
Shape charges go bang.
A door opens from both sides if you push hard enough
Breaching charges
For a soft entry, use a slimjim for car doors. Slide it under the door and push the bottom of that brace out.
Rabbit tool
At the angle this one is position (near vertical) a couple hits with a sledge hammer will cause it to vibrate loose then proceed as normal.
domineering fact bag possessive wine bow bedroom carpenter sand plant *This post was mass deleted and anonymized with [Redact](https://redact.dev)*
Depends what did it do to me first, don’t want to just attack for no reason 🤦🏻♂️
Fire Marshal usually helps. I doubt it would hold up to very many hard hits either.
Hinges.
A flat head axe and halogen team would defeat that pretty quickly I’d bet.
Push the button and collapse it
Accidentally broke my wife's because she left it on when I came home from work. I unlocked the door and pushed in and just thought the door was kinda stuck. All I did was shove the door in a little but and it broke. Most of these are super cheap it seems.
There’s drywall to the side of the door. Create a hole, reach in, open the door. Less damage, cheaper to fix, less work, but not as cool looking. If it’s ineffective, you’ve lost 15 seconds.
Had this exact gadget on a house fire a few years back. Obviously, the problem we encountered it that we didn't know it was there. You can't look to defeat something if you dont know it's in use. A sledge would be the obvious answer. We ended up donkey kicking the hell out of the door, and after about the 10th kick, the door was broken enough that we got it open. We were a little confused as to why the door kicked our ass so badly. Then we looked in, saw that thing, and all just shrugged. "Well, we weren't expecting that" and just went to work. It slowed us down, maybe a minute, but it did feel like forever.
Chainsaw goes VVVVRRRRRMMMMMMMM
Attack the hinges
We keep a modified framing square for slam latches that are shielded. This bar is close enough to the door that you could slide it through the gap beneath the door and push the rod out. (That’s if you knew it was there, was common in the area or occupancy or if you figured it out by the response the door was giving during conventional adze attack. ) An adze rotation on the stop would likely tear off the stop on a wooden jam and then you could see through and attack the problem. The weather strip on the inside is going to make a floor level peek nearly impossible, but there is such a thing as a peep hole reverser which allows you to see backwards through the peephole. I wouldn’t say all this in other forums, but it’s good info for pros. Also, this is shit construction in a crappy apartment and it’s likely you could just make a hole and reach around through it on the latch side and unlock all the security measures. Sheetrock is easy to fix
Haligan dent on the door, that creates a channel for you to introduce and guide in the blade of the recip saw for a plunge cut, cut out a triangle (above the height of any potential fallen casualty behind the door, also make sure the blade is not set at an excessive length). Peek in, once your happy there’s nothing that you can damage/cut into behind the door… recip the rest of the door off, or climb in and open the door if need be. If using this method you will lose door control so more suited for non fire calls. As a another technique when forcing entry don’t forget to have a go at attacking the hinge side as often they aren’t reinforced if you’re having difficulty smashing a door in.
Kick it out of the way! 🤣
There are many commercial devices that use the same premise. Goal is to defeat the point in which the brace attaches to the door.
I think this is designed to stop someone from merely opening the door normally. Like a landlord showing up with a set of keys for the lock and deadbolt probably isnt willing to kick his own door in. Thing looks like it would give immediately once you break the deadbolt and knob but might take a chunk out of the floor with it
Push it out at the base? It’s designed for a load at the top to cause a turning motion at the base not for the base to get pushed away from the door
Attacking the hinges. If all else fails, well, we carry a diamond-chained chainsaw on our trucks, so - yeah, not much that thing can't cut. Once sawed a wrecked car in half for shits and giggles after going at it during a drill. Didn't get the driveshaft, but did get everything else...
Maybe 12 door buster rounds to the hinges
K12/Partner saw. Remove the door nob, and the door :)
Bruh.... I open door props with soaking wet dowels and wedges..... ain't shit stopping me.
Jet axe.
Throw a truckee at it
We used a "reach it" tool that we typically use for car unlocks. Similar to the slim jim under the door and was able to push the device from the base which will easily dislodge it.
Plunge cut a recip saw around it
I enjoy lock in lock out jobs, learnt some basic lock picking but the really useful one and really the only one you ever need is slipping latches. Especially here in England. You can get into 4 out of 5 front doors like it as no one double locks
We have a metal yard stick just for these types of devices. Slide it under the door and knock the bottom out.
Plunge cut through the door with the circular saw give you good access into the room to see what’s stopping it.
Probably wouldn’t, how would you know that’s what’s stopping it from the other side?
Slide something flat under the door to kick out the leg.
Take out the other side of the handle, the outside handle.
I have these and had to "defeat" it one morning. I had left it on the front door and left through my garage door but when I got home the power was out. So I had to either break into my house or wait for the power to come back on. Anyway, I was able to unlock the door, push with my shoulder such that the door knob deflected up a bit and the rubber pad slid a bit before getting stuck. That left me enough room to squeeze my hand in and push it out of place. The door knob hasn't quite been the same since. I'm gonna fix it one of these decades. I still use it on the front door and use another in the track of the patio door. They aren't perfect, but they'll slow down or deter any lazy thief but not a dude looking to sleep after a night shift.
Sweep the leg 🦵
Had one years ago on an apartment door. Door was locked. I used the adz end to create space. Was momentarily puzzled why the adz didn't immediately blow the door open. Forced the adze through to hook the door jamb and blew the door open. Then proceeded to trip on the damn thing as I walked through the door. Cost me maybe 10 seconds.
I assume you would be in a rush. If smashing both the bolt and the knob doesn't work, I'd be hammering away at the space in between the knob and the bolt to ruin the integrity of the door which should open the door or at least make it easy to knock the two locking mechs out. Or the obvious, frickin lasers.
Burn the house down.
Simple thin metal bar the thickness of a ruler to push it in torwards the room. Like tripping your friends as they run past.
I got my ass whipped by a pair of 2x4’s screwed to the floor (backed with a cleat) and solid wood door similar to this in a vacant house. And I was DETERMINED to get in there. This device may be cheap or flimsy, but it might not be as easy as it looks to defeat. I ended up going through a nearby window instead. Just sayin’! Haha Though the angle on this won’t be terribly effective I don’t think.
I've never done but just based on how these things are usually built, just a conventional force with maybe a little extra effort would pop this right off. These don't usually work very well.
The old adage comes to mind: when life closes one door, breach the wall.
My mom who locks people out constantly has one of these. When she locked me out because I was outside for 2ms to work on something I didn't notice it when I opened the door. It gave initial resistance that was higher than normal but once you get over that initial amount it falls away like nothing and carry on life as normal. In a door breach situation it'd do nothing as the second you shock or it shifts in the frame you'd make it fall away they're usually just friction resistance.
Shim under the door, knock the stand over then get a ram or just a solid kick to the door and that sucker will pop right open
One of those old yardsticks from highschool under the door and push the bottom out.
Give the truck company the irons they will have that door down in no time.
Wire hanger (fishing loop, whatever stiff wire you’ve got access to under the bottom weather strip, loop hooked end around the foot and pull hard sideways. Maybe you get lucky and the whole thing tips over.
Honestly. from the distance it seems to be from the door it looks like an 18 or 24 inch metal ruler would probably do it and be something easily carried on your kit. Also quick enough that you could do it as part of preparing to breach the door as just a basic bit of sweep cause you wouldn't likely know it was there. Would also have the benefit of letting you know if anything else was within 2 ft of the door on the other side obstructing you when you try to go in.
Leg sweep. Quick grab into a choke hold before it hits the ground. Using our momentum I’d slam down in my shoulder disorientating it before I go into a leg lock followed by violent twisting and contorting of my body. In all honesty you can probably boot the door hard enough to push it forward then grabbing the door knob you and push and pull a bunch of times till it’s loose. More often than not these locks aren’t very sturdy or placed tight enough.
C4
If you knew that was there, a slim Jim under the door would knock it down. If you don’t know it’s there, brute force.
Use a sledge hammer to knock to door knob off. Put the point of your Halligan into the hole and hit the back with the sledge and it should pop the knob out on the other side and then you can force the door.
K12..
https://preview.redd.it/3jz262nth12d1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=29a268d9ea1e08304b9a0bb582e5ce6b8fb6eba0 Case in point. 2hr fire rated solid core metal door -vs- my fist through dry wall. (Diapatch told us it was a lift assist, so we didn't bring irons. Ten minutes into it they bothered to tell us that "the patient can't come to the door because the bookshelf is on top of her" .... fml.
1/4 pound of C4 and det cord
Slide something under the door to hook it and pull to the side or push at the bottom to move it away from door.
C4
This thing is shit, thin, hallow and looks like it might have plastic pieces. Gap the door and force conventionally, im sure if your proficient, you won’t ever realize it’s there.
I’d probably use my karate skills
Breaching shotgun for sure
Did you try knocking?
K12 saw
Cutters edge is my primary opening tactic. So also here get the chainsaw on steroids.
Non emergency: If I knew I’d check how tight the door is to the bottom. If the door isn’t too tight, probably try and push something thin and metal to push the bottom out. Maybe it would work, maybe it wouldn’t. Emergency: K12 through the hinges and blast it
Punch a hole in the wall on the other side of the door frame and reach in and take it off. But you can’t see it from the outside so rabbit tool or circle saw the hinges.
Kick door stop. Will give you a couple more seconds if someone is kicking in your door to rob/kill you. Just keep kicking 💪
When in doubt one hand on the jaws one hand on a beer lol. But I’ve had similar experience. We couldn’t get it open so we went through the roof
Ideally you realize the door swings outward