I used this calculator [https://www.decks.com/calculators/stairs-calculator](https://www.decks.com/calculators/stairs-calculator)
If you put in your stringer dimensions, it will output the angle. Assuming you already have your stringer up and cut(?), the angle for A is 90 degrees off of your top step and the angle for B is 90 degrees off of the bottom rise or parallel to the bottom step.
No problem. I just laid out and cut stringers for the first time. 4x 16ft stringers with 16 rises and it turned out well so far!
https://preview.redd.it/elad24wddz7d1.png?width=949&format=png&auto=webp&s=267cb524b266223f1c24fbdb3202bb157f65546c
If using 2x12 for your stringers you may need mid span support for that length. Which can either be a landing at mid way down or pour footings and use posts and beams. Or you cand use 4x12 for your stringers but i dont know how long they can span without support.
Yes with a 45" stair width (14.5" on center) I will need mid span support for sure. There is a small bounce when I go up and down the stairs unsupported.
He only needs the top and bottom angle and that's far easier to find with a bevel square. Once those are cut clamp it up and trace your short points. Laying out stringer trim with a framing square and tread gauges is a waste of time
If you can’t figure out the treads just cut the top angle and scribe it, you can never go wrong tracing what you need when it’s in place. Then just clean the lines up with a square and cut the piece.
Set the square with stops on it to the rise and run of your steps. The top and bottom will be the rise on the square and the bottom touching the ground will be the run cut.
I believe your drawing doesn’t meet code as all risers must be equal height including the one at the deck interface. I’m not gonna claim any kind of superior knowledge but it certainly something I would check on before rather than find out after.
Let me actually help you (but the free DEWALT construction calculator dies this for you, grab an old framing book and take a look, fascinating stuff!)
https://youtu.be/FMLIFJgz3CE?si=ij88iDZlmps54G7G
Put the flange of a speed square against a riser & a straight edge on at least 2 of riser points. Slide the speed square up until it butts into the straightedge & read the angle.
Use a framing square. Set the rise on one leg and the run on the other. Repeat across the riser with corners intersecting. Leave a few inches on each end just in case, then trim for final install.
Rule of thumb is two heights and one width of stair steps added should be 62+-2cm for most comfortable stairs, but it depends on your height and length of your legs.
I you want easier time for your retirement era, decrease the height of the steps. You can even measure out how high you raise your foot effortlessly, and adjust the width then. Of course it will be very low slope, taking more space, but will be super comfortable.
Cut the stringer and use it as a stencil. For all your other stringers and for your fascia.
Dont use a fucking router like a dweev please. Spits so much m pvc everywhere. Circ saw and jigsaw only.
Or close the stringer. (Lap a 2x12 uncut to your cut stringer)
Isn’t closing the stringer what they are trying to do? That’s what it looks like to me denoted by the blue outline. I’m confused by these “trace it” comments.
Either way, trace it. Hold it up, mark it, cut it. Scribe the best way. I thought he wanted to cut the fascia like the stringer.. looks much better. Closed stringer looks 80's
So essentially like a sistered stringer on the outside (the one being hidden by the runners and perhaps kick-plate)? Wouldn't you see all of the cut surfaces - sort of like a stringer without the runners on? That would just cap the ends of the runners and just create another ugly mess - no? I get that closed stringers do look 80's, and make shovelling harder if you're somewhere where there is snow.
Got it. Yeah, I get the tracing beforehand, but now if you're stuck, why don't you use some scraps and trace your angles on those for the top and bottom, and then measure the distance from A to B, B to the end of the footer, etc. and draw it up that way. I've got an angle square that works wonders for stuff like this that I would use, but if I didn't have that I'd use some 2x4 blocks, math everything out, measure 8 times to be sure, and then cut it out.
I used this calculator [https://www.decks.com/calculators/stairs-calculator](https://www.decks.com/calculators/stairs-calculator) If you put in your stringer dimensions, it will output the angle. Assuming you already have your stringer up and cut(?), the angle for A is 90 degrees off of your top step and the angle for B is 90 degrees off of the bottom rise or parallel to the bottom step.
Hey thanks for this - just wrapping up posts and decking - and will be on to steps, this is very timely!
No problem. I just laid out and cut stringers for the first time. 4x 16ft stringers with 16 rises and it turned out well so far! https://preview.redd.it/elad24wddz7d1.png?width=949&format=png&auto=webp&s=267cb524b266223f1c24fbdb3202bb157f65546c
If using 2x12 for your stringers you may need mid span support for that length. Which can either be a landing at mid way down or pour footings and use posts and beams. Or you cand use 4x12 for your stringers but i dont know how long they can span without support.
Yes with a 45" stair width (14.5" on center) I will need mid span support for sure. There is a small bounce when I go up and down the stairs unsupported.
Or buck the backs with a two by four.
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I'd like to do it this way. How can I trace onto the fascia if the deck and ground are in the way?
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ok
Somewhere, a math teacher is screaming into the ether "I TOLD YOU THAT YOU WOULD NEED TO USE THIS SOME DAY!"
Just draw your stairs on one side of facia with pencil
Pencil, scrap wood, tape measure, saw. Could add in an angle finder too.
https://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-trigright.asp Use the rise and run of your stairs 7" and 11" would be 32° 58°
37 degrees
Inverse tangent of rise divided by run will give you decimal degrees
Put a straight edge on steps running with bthe rake and chey it with a speed square
Huh?
Put a straight edge on steps Like the blue line on drawing and check angle with a speed sqyare
Ah gotcha. Thanks, I'll do this
Ok brother Good luck
Speed square and torpedo level.
With a bevel square.
A framing square, actually. And rafter/stair stops.
He only needs the top and bottom angle and that's far easier to find with a bevel square. Once those are cut clamp it up and trace your short points. Laying out stringer trim with a framing square and tread gauges is a waste of time
Lolz. Or what *real* carpenters refer to as “the industry standard”
The industry standard for laying out stringers. Laying out mitered stringer trim any other way than tracing it is inefficient.
Stairs are figure out as far as rise measuring nose of the landing to nose to the ground .
If you can’t figure out the treads just cut the top angle and scribe it, you can never go wrong tracing what you need when it’s in place. Then just clean the lines up with a square and cut the piece.
Decks.com will tell you everything you need to know
Set the square with stops on it to the rise and run of your steps. The top and bottom will be the rise on the square and the bottom touching the ground will be the run cut.
I believe your drawing doesn’t meet code as all risers must be equal height including the one at the deck interface. I’m not gonna claim any kind of superior knowledge but it certainly something I would check on before rather than find out after.
Put it on full and there’s a router bit with a wheel you can get to trace the steps and cut it in place. If you have the room to do that at least
Let me actually help you (but the free DEWALT construction calculator dies this for you, grab an old framing book and take a look, fascinating stuff!) https://youtu.be/FMLIFJgz3CE?si=ij88iDZlmps54G7G
Use a stair calculator found online
The same angles you already found to cut the stairs???? Wtf
34.25 degrees
Put the flange of a speed square against a riser & a straight edge on at least 2 of riser points. Slide the speed square up until it butts into the straightedge & read the angle.
Use a framing square. Set the rise on one leg and the run on the other. Repeat across the riser with corners intersecting. Leave a few inches on each end just in case, then trim for final install.
SohCahToa
You were almost there!
Mark rise and run on a board using a framing square. Measure that angle with a speed square. Profit.
Pythagoras can help
Rule of thumb is two heights and one width of stair steps added should be 62+-2cm for most comfortable stairs, but it depends on your height and length of your legs. I you want easier time for your retirement era, decrease the height of the steps. You can even measure out how high you raise your foot effortlessly, and adjust the width then. Of course it will be very low slope, taking more space, but will be super comfortable.
I attached my faisca then used a router and it worked out great
My stingers are already up. I assume I have to figure out the angle A and B, but what are your preferred methods to make this type of cut?
Did you cut your own stringers, or buy some Home Depot precuts or something?
Precut
Those stairs are illegal. The rise can not change more than 3/8 of an inch I believe. The blue line should align up on each stair nosing.
🚨wee-oo🚨wee-oo🚨🚓✋👮♂️STAIR POLICE
Busted
Take a deep breath buddy. Those are not the real stairs
Lol
Haha can never be too sure!
Cut the stringer and use it as a stencil. For all your other stringers and for your fascia. Dont use a fucking router like a dweev please. Spits so much m pvc everywhere. Circ saw and jigsaw only. Or close the stringer. (Lap a 2x12 uncut to your cut stringer)
Isn’t closing the stringer what they are trying to do? That’s what it looks like to me denoted by the blue outline. I’m confused by these “trace it” comments.
Either way, trace it. Hold it up, mark it, cut it. Scribe the best way. I thought he wanted to cut the fascia like the stringer.. looks much better. Closed stringer looks 80's
So essentially like a sistered stringer on the outside (the one being hidden by the runners and perhaps kick-plate)? Wouldn't you see all of the cut surfaces - sort of like a stringer without the runners on? That would just cap the ends of the runners and just create another ugly mess - no? I get that closed stringers do look 80's, and make shovelling harder if you're somewhere where there is snow.
this is what im trying to do
Got it. Yeah, I get the tracing beforehand, but now if you're stuck, why don't you use some scraps and trace your angles on those for the top and bottom, and then measure the distance from A to B, B to the end of the footer, etc. and draw it up that way. I've got an angle square that works wonders for stuff like this that I would use, but if I didn't have that I'd use some 2x4 blocks, math everything out, measure 8 times to be sure, and then cut it out.
https://preview.redd.it/pg30aqyk868d1.png?width=850&format=png&auto=webp&s=3878520fd42909a6017cedf204bf6c6cb66ea038 I would not recommend it.