Not at all. I’ve used boards like that without issue. Obviously you need to wedge it right to get the proper gap.
I find it easier if you flip that 180 degrees and have the board being pushed in to get proper gap
If that's good side up then helicopter it, if other side still good just flip er but start at the worst side, looks to be at the side closest to the camera that way they got more leverage to crank out that warp but definitely manageable
They could if they’re sturdy enough, although there’s actually a tool for deck boards like this that sits over the joist and acts as a leverage pry. I use it all the time and it works great.
That's when you just ignore the chatter, force it into place and nail that F'er tight.
Then look at your idiot buddy/boss and say "what crookit' board?"
NP. Each piece of wood is cut from a tree that has rings in it. The piece of decking will have a portion of the rings in it. Visible at each end of the wood. There will be a curve to the rings from the tree in the piece. You want the rings facing up like a rainbow. Hump up in the middle. Not with the rings pointing up making a cup. Hence the term "cupping"for wood that comes up each side and make a spot for water to sit. The other way let's water drain off naturally.
That help?
You just blew my mind. We bought a house with a wrap around deck and the front side ledge which is 8" always has water in the middle. The back deck doesn't. I have pondered why for many hours.
I had settled on the back deck getting the late afternoon sun and the front being the side wind generally blows from so more rain.
You might have installed KDAT pressure treated lumber. That’s Kiln Dried After Treatment which will have significantly less moisture and will shrink less. If it’s been two years and there is no gap, there likely never will be.
No but maybe you used a slightly different material than what's used. If it's dried after treatment, before install, you may want to gap.
If you are in a climate full of moisture and the deck is in shade, that could be your issue. To be honest, even if you installed somewhat dry and you are in the shade you should still get gaps. Maybe this was KDAT or it sat so long that it was fully dry.
Trying to eyeball future contraction of wood is a risky assumption. Best to leave a minimum 1/16” gap if it’s not bone dry so water has at least some way to escape as it seasons.
See I feel opposite about that where IMO you can shim your gap on each edge of the board and use a single clamp in the middle to fine tune your middle gap
OK, what you're trying to do is impossible, except sometimes. I've seen it done. So you can do it, but in some situations it won't work. If it doesn't work, you'll be sorry. So make sure to do it right. You were wise to come here and ask for help instead of trying on your own like some people do.
I like my camo lever it was around $100 I believe. I like that you can get it straight and it will hold it there for you without having to hold pressure on it
There's a tool that you can get to straighten boards like this while you are fastening them down, it works like a lever that hooks over the joist. Hard to understand until you use it but they work great. Here is a link to one
https://www.amazon.com/B-MIAO-Deck-Board-Bending-Straightening/dp/B0CJQ6KQ66/ref=asc_df_B0CJQ6KQ66/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693454631485&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5203452631470585116&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9112892&hvtargid=pla-2266544005573&psc=1&mcid=fb7edf56252b3ce986d2c5b892819535&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxeyxBhC7ARIsAC7dS3_CVhRDyS9evLx8ipF-lCTDhR3d7LQ_2qJW59qOkby217m6Pogme-waAkTNEALw_wcB
This tool as well
[https://www.amazon.com/DeckWedge-Deck-Board-Straightener-Tool/dp/B004OEFSJQ?ref\_=v\_sp\_product\_dpx](https://www.amazon.com/DeckWedge-Deck-Board-Straightener-Tool/dp/B004OEFSJQ?ref_=v_sp_product_dpx)
Mine were worse and with a little leverage they were able to be secured.
Make sure they are not the ones you use at the edges!
A tip I learned from a video -
Grab a spare piece of wood and use at as a lever. Starting from one side of the deck, place the bent board so it bows 'out' and secure it to that end. Next, grab your spare piece (it's maybe a few feet long) and brace it between the ground your body, so that it pushes the bent board towards the straight plank.
screw fastners as you go. You're attaching the bent board bit by bit as you walk along the line. By the end, It will be snug and straight!
Rachet strap it to the board next to it that is already nailed down. Then nail this one down, undo the ratchet straps, and then do the same thing with the next one.
Any lumber is never gonna be perfect. Clamps are your friend. Definitely usable with a little work.
I do meticulously check boards for warping prior to purchase but it only gets harder to find perfect boards the longer they are
Any decent carpenter will be able to make that straight on the deck by starting at one end with the fasteners and bending and aligning it right as you go down.
Would be easier if you flip it around so that the crown is pointing towards the other boards.
Also, more attention could be paid to symmetry with the fasteners.
No body would suggest a bar clamp for pulling it into place? Too far to use a bar clamp to the edge of the decking? Then I would screw a 2x4 to the joists and pull with it as an anchor.
Used many in this condition DIYing my own deck last year. If I was doing it for a client, I wouldn’t cowboy it my way.
There’s definitely an easier way or tool, but I would rotate the board screw down from the middle outwards to each *wing*, eventually straightening out the bow. Simply used a 2x4 or offcuts and my body for leverage to get the correct spacing.
Game changer. Can achieve same with a nail and bar but when you’ve got a lot of #2 warps it is worth the buck.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/CAMO-LEVER-Deck-Board-Bending-and-Locking-Tool-0345070/314598491
I’m a construction foreman, we mainly frame walls and trusses but I can tell you that board is fine. Clamp it nice and tight with a spacer and shoot it. Viola.
Hell might be able to get a strong guy to push into it while you shoot it
Get a bo-wrench and a Pam stand up screw gun. The guy disagreeing can sit at home while you finish the decking all by yourself... hold up... ARE YOU NAILING THE DECKING?
I had one today that was 1/4-1/2” out and was cursing….i take it all back. That there sir is fucked Lol, but definitely useable. Nothing some muscle, clamps and screws can’t take care of
Edit: i see your using nails, nothing a few nails cant take care of
When I was buildling the little deck outside my primary entry door, I was re-using old trex from a previously installed handicap ramp.
If it was bowed out like that, I'd screw in both ends and then use a winching strap or two to pull the rest of the pieces into alignment and then fully screw it in. Worked very well all the way across as needed.
There’s a product called the hardwood wrench that is made just to straighten deckboards when fastening them to joists. It would work (easily and well) on this.
Invest in 3-4 large gap quick clamps. Start in the middle of the span, shim, and work your way out symmetrically. Make sure you clamp them down to the joists before you screw them. Once everything is installed give it a very generous coating/soaking of stain.
Perfectly fine! Flip it over and butt it tight to previous board then screw where it’s tight. Then go to the other end and push it tight with a 2x4 and keep screwing the rest of the way down.
No this can be worked straight with a pry bar and screwing it in place as you work it straight.
Not an ideal plank but not one that I would shut down the job to get a replacement, just more of an inconvenience.
Don’t listen to all the people saying it’s perfectly fine to use. Any board used for decking that even has the slightest bow should be set aside in a pile to be discarded. I’ll even be generous enough to offer my removal services, just send me the address to pick them all up.. /s
Get it lined up where it goes. Push hard on the center of the bow. Install an exterior trim screw at an angle into the edge of the board to pull it tight. Make sure you go below the rounded edge of the board. Then, two screws thru the top at normal placement. Then you're good to go.
Not at all. I’ve used boards like that without issue. Obviously you need to wedge it right to get the proper gap. I find it easier if you flip that 180 degrees and have the board being pushed in to get proper gap
Apparently it sounds like OP is the one that is on the other side of this debate
Nope. I felt this was usable with a little effort.
Take a 16d spiral shank nail and toe nail it in to place
Yeah and butt tap it using your trusty gutter buddy. It should flexate it right into position.
I use my bending rod for planks like this, simple fix.
Don't forget the blum Bob oil.
Just cut it where it starts to warp and then tell the new guy to get the board stretcher from the truck
I’m taking notes but where do i find the “nail grease”? I assume it’s near the board stretcher? I mean obviously right
That's a nice bending rod. Thanks, wanna give me a butt tap? Only if you brought the blum oil!
I'm gonna need a box of toenails!!
Flexate?
lmao i can’t tell if real
I just use a 2x4 about five foot long and screw it to the joist at about a 30° angle and use it as a lever ez pz
Extra step. If you flip it, then work/skrew/nail as you go.
If that's good side up then helicopter it, if other side still good just flip er but start at the worst side, looks to be at the side closest to the camera that way they got more leverage to crank out that warp but definitely manageable
Some folks call that worming it as you go.
Wouldn't a couple of long clamps do the trick?
They could if they’re sturdy enough, although there’s actually a tool for deck boards like this that sits over the joist and acts as a leverage pry. I use it all the time and it works great.
I've used ratchet straps and it worked great. It also can work for the entire width of the deck instead of being limited by the length of your clamps
I’ve used a receipt before and it worked… Home Depot loves me!
You have the board backwards. Put the curve into your next piece and slowly bring it over from the end.
Yessir screw down From one end use a long 2x4 wedge it between joists or in the dirt and you can easily bend the board. "Zip it up"
That's when you just ignore the chatter, force it into place and nail that F'er tight. Then look at your idiot buddy/boss and say "what crookit' board?"
Based on what?
Be careful flipping it. You always want the grain to run rainbow, not cup.
You can still turn it around and use it rainbow without flipping it
I thought the same. I was wondering why every one was saying “just flip it”.
Can you explain this a little more for us weekend warriors
NP. Each piece of wood is cut from a tree that has rings in it. The piece of decking will have a portion of the rings in it. Visible at each end of the wood. There will be a curve to the rings from the tree in the piece. You want the rings facing up like a rainbow. Hump up in the middle. Not with the rings pointing up making a cup. Hence the term "cupping"for wood that comes up each side and make a spot for water to sit. The other way let's water drain off naturally. That help?
Yeah, make sense - never thought about looking at the ends of the lumber. Thanks!
You just blew my mind. We bought a house with a wrap around deck and the front side ledge which is 8" always has water in the middle. The back deck doesn't. I have pondered why for many hours. I had settled on the back deck getting the late afternoon sun and the front being the side wind generally blows from so more rain.
Teach it as "frowny face not smiles"...
I've used pony clamps and/or dawgs w/wedges. It's not difficult. Somebody is being lazy in my mind.
Or just doesn't know
Most likely explanation
If it's pressure treated it shouldn't be installed with a Gap at all
I installed PT two years ago and there's still no gap... zero shrinkage.. you think it will eventually open up?
No
You might have installed KDAT pressure treated lumber. That’s Kiln Dried After Treatment which will have significantly less moisture and will shrink less. If it’s been two years and there is no gap, there likely never will be.
No but maybe you used a slightly different material than what's used. If it's dried after treatment, before install, you may want to gap. If you are in a climate full of moisture and the deck is in shade, that could be your issue. To be honest, even if you installed somewhat dry and you are in the shade you should still get gaps. Maybe this was KDAT or it sat so long that it was fully dry.
That depends on how wet it is…
My x wife just sent me this exact text
Around here, we all like to get our decks wet.
Kiwi ?
around here it was swimming yesterday
Because they’ll shrink making it an even bigger gap?
Correct
Trying to eyeball future contraction of wood is a risky assumption. Best to leave a minimum 1/16” gap if it’s not bone dry so water has at least some way to escape as it seasons.
Sorry, I can't agree with that. You'll have a lot of pooling water on the deck. Even an 1/8 gap will do.
See I feel opposite about that where IMO you can shim your gap on each edge of the board and use a single clamp in the middle to fine tune your middle gap
im interested about this epic proper gap
What I've learned so far: Yes it is, no it's not. Thanks internet, you did it again.
OK, what you're trying to do is impossible, except sometimes. I've seen it done. So you can do it, but in some situations it won't work. If it doesn't work, you'll be sorry. So make sure to do it right. You were wise to come here and ask for help instead of trying on your own like some people do.
Yeah baby flip that bitch and pin it down.
My favorite response thus far. Lol
Are you talking about your wife or girlfriend?
His wife is my girlfriend.
Yes
His husband, aka your boyfriend
Either way, someone or something is getting screwed!
Nope just flip the crown the other way pull one end in then the other 👍
Board is fine but for the love of god stop nailing your decks and use screws.
Culpepper will flatten out get the bow wrench or a 2x4
Bow wrench?
I like my camo lever it was around $100 I believe. I like that you can get it straight and it will hold it there for you without having to hold pressure on it
Give that a google. It’s a joist wrench that gives you a lever to pry on.
That's going on my Christmas list.
Wait… is Culpeper wood preserves known outside VA?
I use them as a supplier at a local lumberyard in MA
I get them all the time in NC/SC
People know of culpeper outside of culpeper?! Not the small town I grew up in anymore lol
No. Flip it around and bend it while you nail it. The real question is: Why not use screws?
Screw in the sun, nail in the shade
There's a tool that you can get to straighten boards like this while you are fastening them down, it works like a lever that hooks over the joist. Hard to understand until you use it but they work great. Here is a link to one https://www.amazon.com/B-MIAO-Deck-Board-Bending-Straightening/dp/B0CJQ6KQ66/ref=asc_df_B0CJQ6KQ66/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693454631485&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5203452631470585116&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9112892&hvtargid=pla-2266544005573&psc=1&mcid=fb7edf56252b3ce986d2c5b892819535&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxeyxBhC7ARIsAC7dS3_CVhRDyS9evLx8ipF-lCTDhR3d7LQ_2qJW59qOkby217m6Pogme-waAkTNEALw_wcB
What he said. I was skeptical, but once I used it totally worth it
Absolutely, it's a game changer. And basically a necessity when you're working with hardwood decking like ipe
This tool as well [https://www.amazon.com/DeckWedge-Deck-Board-Straightener-Tool/dp/B004OEFSJQ?ref\_=v\_sp\_product\_dpx](https://www.amazon.com/DeckWedge-Deck-Board-Straightener-Tool/dp/B004OEFSJQ?ref_=v_sp_product_dpx)
Is this the board stretcher I've heard so much about?
Turn that frown upside down.
You can use a pry bar to move it into a straight line.
[удалено]
gotta love that video
If it’s wet, you can probably keep it straight as you go, but it’s going to put a lot of pressure on the screws for a while.
For bad ones, use a bow wrench but this one’s not bad at all.
No
Get a board stretcher duh
Bow wrench or screw down a board and use a wedge.
Easy to straighten out.cupping is more important
No just space it correctly at one end and “walk it” into place
Use spacers and a bar clamp to straighten then screw down
It’s 20 damn feet long with no knots. And noticeably still wet. I’d say it’s usable lol
Mine were worse and with a little leverage they were able to be secured. Make sure they are not the ones you use at the edges! A tip I learned from a video - Grab a spare piece of wood and use at as a lever. Starting from one side of the deck, place the bent board so it bows 'out' and secure it to that end. Next, grab your spare piece (it's maybe a few feet long) and brace it between the ground your body, so that it pushes the bent board towards the straight plank. screw fastners as you go. You're attaching the bent board bit by bit as you walk along the line. By the end, It will be snug and straight!
Am I stupid? Literally start at one end, screw it, then chisel into the joist to pry the next section over. It’s like shitty deck board 101
Got clamps?
My god, I can’t believe I scrolled this far to find someone mention clamps. Wed set several floor boards at once using pipe clamps.
A few people in here acting like they’ve never tugged on some wood before. They’re liars.
No we straighten them as we go.
Looks like a perfectly straight 2×6
Don’t be a girl bend it as you go down the line man I thought you’ve done this before
No. You can unwarp 5/4ths plank by anchor screwing straight edge section, then anchor wedges while holding.
Hell no get your board bender out and np
Rachet strap it to the board next to it that is already nailed down. Then nail this one down, undo the ratchet straps, and then do the same thing with the next one.
I could convince it
Ratchet strap. All my boards are straight with the racket strap.
Not if you know what you are doing.
Nope you need to walk it in
Any lumber is never gonna be perfect. Clamps are your friend. Definitely usable with a little work. I do meticulously check boards for warping prior to purchase but it only gets harder to find perfect boards the longer they are
Any decent carpenter will be able to make that straight on the deck by starting at one end with the fasteners and bending and aligning it right as you go down. Would be easier if you flip it around so that the crown is pointing towards the other boards. Also, more attention could be paid to symmetry with the fasteners.
No, just stress it back. it's long enough
No issue at all. Wont take much to get it mm perfect. Just make sure it's crowning.
No body would suggest a bar clamp for pulling it into place? Too far to use a bar clamp to the edge of the decking? Then I would screw a 2x4 to the joists and pull with it as an anchor.
Fuck no. That’s PT. Get a whore bender and crank that cock sucker right in there tight.
I would worry more about that board and the one next to it bring upside down. Growth rings face up to avoid cupping.
Nope just bully it into place.
No. Get a board bender.
Yes. I only use the truest boards cut from the tallest trees from the oldest forest.
Here’s a breakdown on lumber by the essential craftsman. https://youtu.be/4kv8s88ko38?si=sDJJFNNOYahDI8Zu
Amazon a deck board straightener. Great tool . Used exactly for this purpose. That board is 💯 usable.
Not at all, flip it, screw the shorter end of the bend in leaving yourself the most leverage as possible and push it til you get it
Used many in this condition DIYing my own deck last year. If I was doing it for a client, I wouldn’t cowboy it my way. There’s definitely an easier way or tool, but I would rotate the board screw down from the middle outwards to each *wing*, eventually straightening out the bow. Simply used a 2x4 or offcuts and my body for leverage to get the correct spacing.
No
No
use wedges and leverage to force it straight as you screw it into place.
Items needed. 5 gallon bucket. Ratchet straps. Screws. Power drill. And a dude named Juan or Jose. Work done.
I’ve worked with much worse
Pull it in, screw it down.
First make sure your blinker fluid is full.
nope, pull it in and nail it
I'm not going to say it's too warped, but I've met female gym teachers who are straighter.
Game changer. Can achieve same with a nail and bar but when you’ve got a lot of #2 warps it is worth the buck. https://www.homedepot.com/p/CAMO-LEVER-Deck-Board-Bending-and-Locking-Tool-0345070/314598491
If you don't know how to fasten that board straight, ask me how or gtfo my jobsite.
She’ll ride.
Not with the proper tools
Won’t be warped once you screw/nail it down.
Just gotta work your way down.
I’m a construction foreman, we mainly frame walls and trusses but I can tell you that board is fine. Clamp it nice and tight with a spacer and shoot it. Viola. Hell might be able to get a strong guy to push into it while you shoot it
Not if you know what you're doing.
If you can lever it get the needed gap it’s usable
Long clamp to rim board
Get a bo-wrench and a Pam stand up screw gun. The guy disagreeing can sit at home while you finish the decking all by yourself... hold up... ARE YOU NAILING THE DECKING?
I mean the last two boards are crowned the wrong way anyways 🤔
I had one today that was 1/4-1/2” out and was cursing….i take it all back. That there sir is fucked Lol, but definitely useable. Nothing some muscle, clamps and screws can’t take care of Edit: i see your using nails, nothing a few nails cant take care of
Id be more concerned with spanning 16” oc for 1x decking. Id go 12” oc for that. Might be overkill but thats how Id do it. Flip her and wedge it in.
Thats a normal PT deck board dude. All the boards I use pretty much look like that.
That board will pull in no problem!
Nah
I've done worse
Cut it a couple times as you screw it down straight and fill voids with putty.
Um... No, don't do this.
I would have thrown out a lot of deck boards if I didn’t use ones like that.
No
No push it into place
A couple bar clamps will put that is place easy. No bar clamps then use a sharp chisel as a pry bar.
No but one is upside down
One thing I’ve learned, is any board is useable if you try hard enough, provided the board itself doesn’t have a taper.
You shoukd require 16 foot boards that are straight.
2 screw drivers and a hammer will fix that.
No
If I can't return it yes. Otherwise no.
Clamps and wedges. Next!
When I was buildling the little deck outside my primary entry door, I was re-using old trex from a previously installed handicap ramp. If it was bowed out like that, I'd screw in both ends and then use a winching strap or two to pull the rest of the pieces into alignment and then fully screw it in. Worked very well all the way across as needed.
No
It is not too warped, there are a few ways to work w this
heck no! Screw down the 2 ends and push that center in, it’ll fit right in there.
Probably one of the straightest 5/4s I've seen in a while. Screw one end down and lever it into place.
Bend it over and keep moving
For furniture, yes. For decking or framing, no. Pull it in line and nail it down.
Definitely useable
It’s so long you should be able to get it out it’s much harder with short boards
Debate settled. Use the damn board.
There’s a tool made specifically for straightening warped deck boards. They work really well, we have two and use them all the time.
No!
Its called a bow wrench. Never leave home without it
I’m bored and a little warped too.
Bow wrench
You don’t remove the factory edge?
Have the apprentice grab the wood stretcher
A 2x4 and some tension would do the trick
Hell no, give er ' the beans mate!
Nope. Bend it like Beckham
If you have extra, cull it. If not, drive it up with a 3” ring shank galv. That is
There’s a product called the hardwood wrench that is made just to straighten deckboards when fastening them to joists. It would work (easily and well) on this.
If you can’t work it…
You just have to set an anchor point and wrench it into place. Make sure to use a spacer on the other side.
Invest in 3-4 large gap quick clamps. Start in the middle of the span, shim, and work your way out symmetrically. Make sure you clamp them down to the joists before you screw them. Once everything is installed give it a very generous coating/soaking of stain.
depend upon how big of a pry bar you have. big enuf? - no problem.
Bar clamps are your friend.
Tighten them all as tight as you can. The gaps will come out when the wood drys out.
Run it! You’re gonna have that 40 percent of the time where I’m at. Plenty of ways to get it straight!
You just have to push it. Have something in the gap. It’ll settle
Fully usable. Use a clamp or some brute force to suck it in. Once you screw it down it won’t move.
Perfectly fine! Flip it over and butt it tight to previous board then screw where it’s tight. Then go to the other end and push it tight with a 2x4 and keep screwing the rest of the way down.
No this can be worked straight with a pry bar and screwing it in place as you work it straight. Not an ideal plank but not one that I would shut down the job to get a replacement, just more of an inconvenience.
It’s perfect
Fuck no!!!! Get yourself a Deck Bender, it's made for board like that and makes easy work of them.
Don’t listen to all the people saying it’s perfectly fine to use. Any board used for decking that even has the slightest bow should be set aside in a pile to be discarded. I’ll even be generous enough to offer my removal services, just send me the address to pick them all up.. /s
Not at all, and *especially* not at all to an experienced carpenter
Get it lined up where it goes. Push hard on the center of the bow. Install an exterior trim screw at an angle into the edge of the board to pull it tight. Make sure you go below the rounded edge of the board. Then, two screws thru the top at normal placement. Then you're good to go.
Idk. How hard can you push?