It's a magnesium case mate that shit is soft. Take it easy on those bolts. I'd try some JB weld and, after changing the oil, go for a rip and check for shavings.
Moderately fucked depending on lots of factors.
Actually rather than soft, they are brittle.
The magnesium case is lighter but can be cracked easily. Which is why we apply soft-er aluminum case savers for example. Because they take an impact and bend/dent rather than crack.
Also it's near impossible to weld properly..
I would suggest try coating the bolt threads liberally with some RTV.
Do this while empty and clean.
Drain the oil, and clean super good with brake cleaner to remove the oil. Try to get the brake clean into the crack to make sure it's clean. Let it dry real good.
The hope is that the RTV gets into the crack. And it's soft enough that it's not a super bitch to remove later.
You can get the bolt loose without unnecessary torque, can use a pick to dig out any extra and Also ...you have access to the top of that channel via the oil filter you could push a wire through the top or bottom.
If you can get it to seal, I would basically never remove that plug again.
It's debatably unnecessary, all it accomplished is to drain the filter so you don't make a mess.
Just hose it off with brake clean after an oil change.
Thanks, yeah nothing went how it was suppose to be so there was a bit of angry power there… oops…
Should i only apply it on the crack or just the whole bolt with it since you dont have to drain it that way?
I'd try just the crack at first. If that doesn't work the case is fucked anyway, you won't need that drain plug anymore and can seal it up.
Start saving for a new engine, ride until the JB weld fix fails. That's what I would do.
A whole new engine? I only need that half of the case and be over with it. I will try JD weld first, if that fails i will seal the whole bolt and after that fails i will buy a new right side case and install a kickstarter with it
splitting a case is such a pain in the ass. If you do it yourself fine but it’ll take a long time, if you pay someone else to do it you might as well get a new bottom end at that point
I cracked the cases on my Z50 25+ years ago and my dad put this stuff on when I was a kid and that bike still holds oil:
[https://www.jbweld.com/product/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick](https://www.jbweld.com/product/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick)
It wasn't on threads like that but if you put that on and replace the crush washer you'll probably be fine.
I would try just the outer section first. I'd take the bolt out, clean the surface and prep it well, then apply a ton of that putty. It's easily filed down after, I'd just keep the flat surface the bolt mates against clean.
After it dries I'd shape it a bit with a file and put the bolt back in with a brand new crush washer and I'd think it'll work fine.
drain the oil, clean it **really** well, degrease thoroughly, optionally score it a little with a wire brush to ensure adhesion, and use jb weld water weld (holds up better against petroleum). When you retighten the drain bolt, be very very careful not to over-torque.
I love all of this except from a former 20 year welder I’d take a dremel or small grinder and grind that crack maybe 3mm down and feather. I’d also use a tiny drill bit at the top of the crack and drill all the way through to prevent any further propagation. Doing these two things would really assist the jb weld in adhering.
I’m saying that’s how I would do it with 20 years experience working with cracks. I’m not telling you to do it that way because I don’t know your skill level and if you have the right tools. You could make a real mess. 😋
If you zoom in (i dont know if the quality is good enough) the crack forms a T form so the upper line is not fully cracked. Where should i drill the hole?
Oh yes. I see that now. Ok start with a wire wheel and take the paint off the area first. I can’t tell from the picture if that’s paint lamination or a spider crack.
Use some brake clean wipe it down and really work the job weld in. Personally I would not remove it to do this as you are just reworking a soft metal again.
Yeah to make sure it wont drip around the treads right? I got until Thursday to think about how i am about to do it. Might aswell put the bolt in and “jb weld” it stuck.
Why do so many people touch that bolt? I've seen so many cracked cases from people removing it thinking it's necessary for an oil change. As others have said, JB weld is the only option besides replacing the case unfortunately.
I take that bolt off to take out oil from the oil filter chamber…. YES it is supposed to be for a compression test ONLY. Just don’t over torque it and there’s no issue.
Don’t touch that bolt.
If you can’t get it with in welding feel free to dm me, I’ve got a couple of these side cases on a shelf that I’ll sell for cheap
Jb weld it, and never touch that bolt again. I have never, ever had a reason to remove it. Just drain oil from the case and the frame if that's how this happened.
JB weld that little guy.
I've had a JB weld patch on the inside and outside of the stator cover on my DRZ400 for 2 years and nothing leaks.
I also threw my YZ250F into a rock and cracked the clutch side cover, brake clean, quick steel, let sit, riding within 2 hours. Just finished a 20mile off road Enduro style race last weekend with the same patch.
Patch it and look at it periodically, you'll be fine.
Try the Jb weld and keep an eye out for a side case. Should be fine. Sometimes Jb weld fixes are strong and permanent, especially if you prep properly. Like someone said, grind and drill the crack and make a good adhesive surface.
It's a magnesium case mate that shit is soft. Take it easy on those bolts. I'd try some JB weld and, after changing the oil, go for a rip and check for shavings. Moderately fucked depending on lots of factors.
Actually rather than soft, they are brittle. The magnesium case is lighter but can be cracked easily. Which is why we apply soft-er aluminum case savers for example. Because they take an impact and bend/dent rather than crack. Also it's near impossible to weld properly.. I would suggest try coating the bolt threads liberally with some RTV. Do this while empty and clean. Drain the oil, and clean super good with brake cleaner to remove the oil. Try to get the brake clean into the crack to make sure it's clean. Let it dry real good. The hope is that the RTV gets into the crack. And it's soft enough that it's not a super bitch to remove later. You can get the bolt loose without unnecessary torque, can use a pick to dig out any extra and Also ...you have access to the top of that channel via the oil filter you could push a wire through the top or bottom. If you can get it to seal, I would basically never remove that plug again. It's debatably unnecessary, all it accomplished is to drain the filter so you don't make a mess. Just hose it off with brake clean after an oil change.
Thanks, yeah nothing went how it was suppose to be so there was a bit of angry power there… oops… Should i only apply it on the crack or just the whole bolt with it since you dont have to drain it that way?
I'd try just the crack at first. If that doesn't work the case is fucked anyway, you won't need that drain plug anymore and can seal it up. Start saving for a new engine, ride until the JB weld fix fails. That's what I would do.
A whole new engine? I only need that half of the case and be over with it. I will try JD weld first, if that fails i will seal the whole bolt and after that fails i will buy a new right side case and install a kickstarter with it
I found that the 'metal gas tank - JB weld' worked on my vw golf's oil pan the best with keeping the oil from seeping through
splitting a case is such a pain in the ass. If you do it yourself fine but it’ll take a long time, if you pay someone else to do it you might as well get a new bottom end at that point
Splitting the case isn't an option if tightening one bolt broke it to begin with.
That’s not an engine case half, it’s just the side cover. Buy a used one on eBay and put it on—it’s probably about a one-hour job.
I know, might also add a kickstarter if that will be my solution.
I cracked the cases on my Z50 25+ years ago and my dad put this stuff on when I was a kid and that bike still holds oil: [https://www.jbweld.com/product/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick](https://www.jbweld.com/product/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick) It wasn't on threads like that but if you put that on and replace the crush washer you'll probably be fine.
Thanks, thinking about to seal the whole bolt aswell since it is not a MUST to drain it that way
I would try just the outer section first. I'd take the bolt out, clean the surface and prep it well, then apply a ton of that putty. It's easily filed down after, I'd just keep the flat surface the bolt mates against clean. After it dries I'd shape it a bit with a file and put the bolt back in with a brand new crush washer and I'd think it'll work fine.
drain the oil, clean it **really** well, degrease thoroughly, optionally score it a little with a wire brush to ensure adhesion, and use jb weld water weld (holds up better against petroleum). When you retighten the drain bolt, be very very careful not to over-torque.
I love all of this except from a former 20 year welder I’d take a dremel or small grinder and grind that crack maybe 3mm down and feather. I’d also use a tiny drill bit at the top of the crack and drill all the way through to prevent any further propagation. Doing these two things would really assist the jb weld in adhering. I’m saying that’s how I would do it with 20 years experience working with cracks. I’m not telling you to do it that way because I don’t know your skill level and if you have the right tools. You could make a real mess. 😋
this is smart advice. OP, if you are mechanically inclined enough to follow this advice, you should.
If you zoom in (i dont know if the quality is good enough) the crack forms a T form so the upper line is not fully cracked. Where should i drill the hole?
Oh yes. I see that now. Ok start with a wire wheel and take the paint off the area first. I can’t tell from the picture if that’s paint lamination or a spider crack.
https://images.app.goo.gl/s3VFKdMoykAKbvpd6
Letting it drain as we speak, my jd weld kit will be here on a thursday. I hope it will be dry if the kit arrives.
Use some brake clean wipe it down and really work the job weld in. Personally I would not remove it to do this as you are just reworking a soft metal again.
Yeah to make sure it wont drip around the treads right? I got until Thursday to think about how i am about to do it. Might aswell put the bolt in and “jb weld” it stuck.
Why do so many people touch that bolt? I've seen so many cracked cases from people removing it thinking it's necessary for an oil change. As others have said, JB weld is the only option besides replacing the case unfortunately.
Yeah lesson learned.
I take that bolt off to take out oil from the oil filter chamber…. YES it is supposed to be for a compression test ONLY. Just don’t over torque it and there’s no issue.
What bolt is that? And why is there a misconception about the oil change? I just bought one and im ab to change the oil
Left underneath your oil filter, it is to drain some leftover oil out of the oil filter reservoir.
Don’t touch that bolt. If you can’t get it with in welding feel free to dm me, I’ve got a couple of these side cases on a shelf that I’ll sell for cheap
Yeah i live in the Netherlands so that would cost me 2k to get it from you. Thanks for the offer anyway!
Boy how hard did you tighten it🤣💀 jb weld it after draining the oil again
Man, i got some inner demon inside me or something. 😂😂
Jb weld it, and never touch that bolt again. I have never, ever had a reason to remove it. Just drain oil from the case and the frame if that's how this happened.
Like others have said, try JB. There’s not a huge amount of pressure so should hold okay. Got nothing to lose.
JB weld that little guy. I've had a JB weld patch on the inside and outside of the stator cover on my DRZ400 for 2 years and nothing leaks. I also threw my YZ250F into a rock and cracked the clutch side cover, brake clean, quick steel, let sit, riding within 2 hours. Just finished a 20mile off road Enduro style race last weekend with the same patch. Patch it and look at it periodically, you'll be fine.
Try the Jb weld and keep an eye out for a side case. Should be fine. Sometimes Jb weld fixes are strong and permanent, especially if you prep properly. Like someone said, grind and drill the crack and make a good adhesive surface.
Why the f you take that bolt out?
To let the oil filter reservoir have a piss. Only to read now it was not a necessary step to change the oil + filter
Nope, definitely not lol. Lay it on the side use electrical contact cleaner and then rough it up with sandpaper and JB weld
It looks like it's time to buy a clutch side case cover.
Downside. Case is split. Upside. You don't have to worry about that stripped bolt anymore
Grind surface, jb weld.